THE 

AMERICAN 

GARDENER'S   ASSISTANT 
fn  Cjm  fjarfs. 

CONTAINING 

COMPLETE  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS 

FOR   THE    CULTIVATION    OP 

VEGETABLES,   FLOWERS,  FRUIT  TREES,  AND 
GRAPE-VINES. 

BY  THOMAS  BRIDGEMAN, 

Gardener,  Seedsman,  and  Florist. 


NEW  EDITION;  REVISED,  ENLARGED,  AND  ILLUSTRATED, 
BY  S.  EDWARDS  TODD. 


NEW  YORK: 

WILLIAM  WOOD  &  CO.,   61   WALKER   STREET. 
1869. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1SC6,  fej 

ALFRED  BEIDGEMAN, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  S<  nthern  Dis- 
trict of  New  York. 


THE   NEW   YORK    PRINTING   Co., 

8x,  83,  and  85  Centre  Street^ 

NEW  YORK. 


PREFACE. 


THE  primary  object  in  first  publishing  THE  YOUNG 
GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT,  was  to  enable  our  respectable 
seedsmen,  while  furnishing  a  catalogue  of  seed  for  the 
use  of  the  Kitchen  and  Flower  Garden,  to  afford  instruc- 
tion, at  a  trifling  expense,  to  such  of  their  customers  as 
had  not  a  regular  gardener,  and  thereby  save  themselves 
the  blame,  of  those  who  may  not  have  given  their  seed 
a  fair  trial  for  want  of  knowing  how  to  dispose  of  it  in 
the  ground. 

The  Author,  having  shown  his  primary  object  in 
adopting  the  catalogue  form,  presumes  that  his  readers 
will  not  be  disappointed  if  they  do  not  find  there  the 
names  of  all  the  species  or  varieties  of  plants  they  may 
wish  to  introduce  into  their  gardens,  the  mode  of  culture 
of  such  being  generally  alike.  If  a  catalogue  of  this 
kind  was  essential,  it  would  occupy  more  space  than  is 
allotted  to  this  book ;  besides,  it  would  be  impossible  to 
keep  pace  with  our  enterprising  horticulturists  and 
florists,  who  are  continually  introducing  new  species  into 

M347148 


VI  PREFACE. 


our  country.  When,  also,  it  is  considered  that  there  are 
a  number  of  indigenous  plants  at  present  unknown  to 
us,  it  will  appear  evident  that  the  most  extensive  cata- 
logue would  not  be  perfect  in  this  respect  for  any  length 
of  time ;  the  Author,  therefore,  thought  it  unnecessary  to 
attempt  anything  more  than  is  essential  to  the  attainment 
of  a  tolerable  share  of  the  products  of  the  garden, 
by  ordinary  exertion.  How  far  he  has  succeeded  in  this 
respect,  must  be  left  for  the  reader  to  decide. 

THOMAS  BKIDGEMAN. 


I. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GENERAL    REMARKS    ON    KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

PREVIOUS  to  preparing  a  kitchen-garden,  the  gardener  should 
provide  a  blank-book,  and  prepare  a  map  of  his  ground,  on 
which  he  should  first  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  allotting  a 
place  for  all  the  different  kinds  of  vegetables  he  intends  to  cul- 
tivate. As  he  proceeds  in  the  business  of  planting  his  grounds, 
if  he  should  keep  aa  account  of  everything  he  does  relative  to 
his  garden,  he  would  soon  obtain  some  knowledge  of  the  art. 
This  the  writer  has  done  for  more  than  twenty  years,  and  he 
flatters  himself  that  a  publication  of  the  results  of  his  practice 
will  be  interesting  and  useful  to  his  readers. 

If  gardeners  would  accustom  themselves  to  record  the  dates 
and  particulars  of  their  transactions  relative  to  tillage,  planting, 
etc.,  they  would  always  know  when  to  expect  their  seed  to 
come  up,  and  how  to  regulate  their  crops  for  succession  ;  and 
when  it  is  considered  that  plants  of  the  brassica,  or  Cabbage 
tribe,  are  apt  to  get  infected  at  the  roots,  if  too  frequently  t 
planted  in  the  same  ground,  and  that  a  rotation  of  crops  in 
general  is  beneficial,  it  will  appear  evident  that  a  complete 
register  of  everything  relative  to  culture  is  as  essential  to  suc- 
cess in  the  kitchen-garden  as  in  agriculture  proper. 

Those  who  have  not  a  garden  already  formed,  and  cannot 
avail  themselves  of  such  a  slope  of  ground  or  quality  of  soil 
as  they  desire,  must  take  up  with  such  as  may  be  within  their 
reach.  If  practicable,  a  kitchen-garden  should  have  a  warm 
and  south-easterly  exposure.  But  when  the  ground  slopes  to 

1* 


10  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  north  and  west,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  it  is  important  to 
have  the  garden  located  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  grove,  forest, 
or  out-buildings.  Every  person,  previous  to  choosing  a  loca- 
tion for  out-buildings  and  a  dwelling-house,  should  select  the 
most  desirable  situation  for  the  kitchen-garden. 

LAYING    OUT   THE    GROUND. 

If  desirable,  a  border  may  be  formed  around  the  whole  gar- 
den, from  five  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
piece  of  land.  Next  to  this  border,  a  walk  may  be  made  from 
three  to  six  feet  wide ;  and  the  middle  of  the  garden  may  be 
divided  into  squares,  on  the  sides  of  which  a  border  may  be 
laid  out  three  or  four  feet  wide,  in  which  the  various  kinds  of 
herbs  may  be  raised,  and  also  gooseberries,  currants,  rasp- 
berries, strawberries,  etc.  The  centre  beds  may  be  planted 
with  various  kinds  of  vegetables.  The  outside  borders  will 
be  useful  for  raising  the  earliest  fruits  and  vegetables,  and 
serve  for  raising  and  pricking  out  such  young  plants,  herbs, 
and  cuttings,  as  require  to  be  screened  from  the  intense  heat 
of  the  sun. 

The  mode  of  laying  out  the  ground  is  a  matter  of  taste,  and 
may  be  left  to  the  gardener  himself,  the  form  being  a  thing  of 
trifling  importance  in  the  production  of  useful  vegetables ;  and 
it  matters  not  whether  the  ground  be  laid  out  in  beds  of  four 
or  ten  feet  wide,  provided  it  be  well  worked,  and  the  garden 
kept  neat  and  free  from  weeds.  One  should  determine  what 
.kind  of  vegetables  he  designs  to  raise  as  well  as  the  quantity  of 
each  kind.  If  the  object  be  simply  to  supply  one  family  with 
vegetables,  it  is  better  to  appropriate  only  a  small  plot  of  ground 
to  this  purpose,  as  a  large  garden  at  a  distance  from  a  good 
market  is  not  always  a  source  of  profit,  while  it  requires  a 
great  deal  of  labor  to  keep  it  in  order.  It  is  far  better  to  have 
a  small  plot  of  ground  of  only  a  few  square  rods  thoroughly 
pulverized,  well  manured,  and  properly  dressed,  than  one  twice 
as  large,  and  all  these  things  alluded  to,  only  half  done.  Very 
many  persons  in  the  country,  who  raise  no  garden  produce  for 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


11 


market,  err  greatly  in  laying  out  gardens  much  larger  than 
they  cultivate  profitably. 

All  standard  trees  should  be  excluded  from  a  kitchen-garden, 
as  their  roots  spread  so  widely,  and  imbibe  so  much  moisture 
from  the  ground,  that  little  is  left  for  the  nourishment  of  any 
plant  within  the  range  of  their  influence ;  and  when  in  full 
leaf,  they  shade  a  large  space,  and  obstruct  the  free  circulation 
of  the  air,  so  essential  to  the  well-being  of  all  plants.  More- 
over, the  droppings  from  some  trees  are  particularly  injurious 
to  whatever  vegetation  they  fall  upon.  When  any  plants  re- 
quire a  shade  it  is  infinitely  better  to  make  a  temporary  pro- 
tection with  wide  boards  placed  on  stones,  or  billets  of  wood, 
than  to  attempt  to  plant  in  the  shade  of  trees.  In  the  absence 
of  wide  boards  for  screening  plants  from  the  intense  heat  of  the 
sun,  two  or  more  narrow  boards  may  be  placed  side  by  side. 


12  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

ARRANGEMENT    OF   THE    GARDEN. 

The  cut  herewith  given,  represents  a  very  satisfactory  man 
ner  of  disposing  of  different  kinds  of  plants  and  vegetables  in 
the  kitchen-garden.  The  illustration  requires  no  explanation. 
The  arrangement  can  be  varied  to  suit  the  fancy  or  conve- 
nience. 

MANURE. HOW    APPLIED. 

One  important  point  to  be  attended  to,  is  to  have  a  supply 
of  good,  well-rotted  manure  ready  to  incorporate  with  the  soil ; 
and  also  a  portion  of  ashes,  soot,  tobacco-dust,  and  lime,  for 
the  purpose  of  sowing  over  seed-beds  in  dry  weather,  to  destroy 
insects,  which  sometimes  cut  off  young  plants  as  fast  as  they 
come  up. 

If  the  ground  cannot  be  all  manured  every  year,  as  it  should 
be,  it  is  of  primary  importance  that  those  vegetables  be  pro- 
vided for  which  most  need  manure.  A  perusal  of  the  catalogue 
will  enable  the  young  gardener  to  judge  of  the  kinds  of  garden 
products  which  require  it  most.  Good,  rich  manure  is  indis- 
pensably necessary  for  the  production  of  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Spinach,  Onions,  Radishes,  and  Salads  in 
general. 

In  the  event  of  a  scanty  supply  of  manure,  those  kinds  of 
vegetables  which  are  raised  in  hills  or  drills,  may  be  manured 
immediately  under  the  seed  or  plants  by  applying  a  light  dress- 
ing before  the  seed  is  dropped,  being  careful  to  cover  it  with 
soil,  so  that  the  seed  may  not  come  in  immediate  contact  with 
stimulating  fertilizers. 

As  some  cultivators,  by  their  method  of  using  manure,  show 
that  they  have  very  erroneous  ideas  as  to  its  real  object  or 
utility,  I  would  remind  them  that  manure  should  be  employed 
with  a  view  to  renovate  and  strengthen  the  natural  soil,  and 
not  as  a  receptacle  for  seed.  In  order  that  manure  may  have  a 
salutary  effect,  it  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
earth  by  the  operation  of  digging  or  ploughing.  When  it  is 
used  in  hills  or  on  a  given  spot,  it  should  be  well  pulverized 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  13 

and  mixed  with  the  earth  so  as  to  form  a  compost.  These 
remarks  apply  especially  to  strong  animal  manures,  the  excre- 
ments of  fowls,  as  also  to  soaper's,  tanner's  and  glue  manufac- 
turer's manure,  rags,  etc.  Lime,  ashes,  bone-dust,  poudrette, 
urate,  salt,  sulphur,  gypsum,  nitrate  of  potash,  and  other  porta- 
ble manures,  may  be  sown  broadcast  over  the  land  previous  to 
harrowing  or  raking  it,  or  such  manures  may  be  formed  into  a 
compost  when  used  in  hills  or  drills.  They  should  in  every 
case  be  used  with  caution,  as  an  indiscreet  use  of  them  will 
destroy  the  seed  or  plants,  and  thus  defeat  the  cultivator's 
object.  Many  gardeners  can  corroborate  these  facts,  from 
having  used  strong  compost  as  a  mould  for  their  hotbeds, 
thereby  poisoning  the  germs  of  the  seed,  and  causing  the 
plants  to  die  off  prematurely  ;  and  it  is  notorious  that  a  great 
proportion  of  failing  crops  is  occasioned  by  an  injudicious  mode 
of  using  manure. 

IMPROVING    POOR    SOILS. 

Much  depends  on  the  manures  used  on  particular  kinds  of 
soil.  The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clayey  soils  con- 
sists in  giving  the  former  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow-dung,  and 
other  kinds  of  manure,  as  will  have  a  tendency  to  bind  and 
make  them  more  compact,  and  consequently  more  retentive  of 
moisture ;  and  to  the  latter,  coats  of  horse-dung,  ashes,  sand, 
and  such  other  composts  as  may  tend  to  separate  the  particles 
and  open  the  pores  of  the  clay,  so  as  to  cause  it  to  approach  aa 
nearly  as  possible  to  a  loam. 

SALTPETRE    AS    A   FERTILIZER. 

Saltpetre  is  pernicious  to  many  species  of  insects ;  it  is  also 
an  excellent  manure,  and  may  be  used  to  great  advantage  when 
dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  four  gallons  of 
water.  This  liquid,  applied  to  plants  througli  the  rose  of  a 
watering-pot,  will  preserve  health  and  vigor.  Soapsuds  are 
equally  beneficial,  if  used  occasionally  in  the  same  manner — . 
say  once  a  week.  These  remedies,  applied  alternately,  have 


14  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

been  known  to  preserve  melon  and  cucumber-vines  from  the 
ravages  of  the  yellow-fly,  bugs,  blight,  etc.,  and  to  keep  the 
plants  in  a  thriving  condition. 

REPELLING   INSECTS. 

As  liquid,  however,  cannot  be  conveniently  used  on  a  laige 
piece  of  land,  it  may  be  necessary,  if  insects  are  numerous,  to 
sow  tobacco-dust,  mixed  with  road-dust,  soot,  ashes,  lime,  or 
the  dust  of  charcoal,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  bushel  per 
acre  every  morning,  until  the  plants  are  free  or  secure  from 
their  attacks. 

It  is  necessary  that  the  gardener  should  have  a  hogshead 
set  in  the  ground  always  at  hand  in  dry  weather,  containing 
solutions  made  of  waste  tobacco,  lime,  soot,  cow-dung,  elder, 
burdock  leaves,  etc.  A  portion  of  these  ingredients,  or  any 
other  preparation  that  is  pernicious  or  poisonous  to  insects, 
without  injuring  the  plants,  thrown  into  a  hogshead  kept 
filled  up  with  water,  if  used  moderately  over  beds  of  young 
plants  in  dry  weather,  would,  in  almost  every  case,  insure  a 
successful  crop.  Such  liquid,  however*  should  never  be  used 
when  the  sun  shines ;  and  if  applied  too  abundantly  to  the 
leaves,  there  is  danger,  sometimes,  that  the  leaves  and  stems 
will  be  destroyed. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  most  profitable  and  exhaust- 
ing crops ;  and  the  succession  of  crops  should  be  so  arranged 
that  the  ground  may  be  occupied  by  plants  either  valuable  in 
themselves,  or  which  may  contribute  to  the  increased  value  of 
those  which  are  to  follow  ;  and  the  value  of  the  labor  required 
to  mature  vegetables  and  prepare  them  for  market,  should  be 
always  taken  into  consideration. 

VALUE    OF   PEAT   ASHES. 

The  farmers  of  Europe  consider  peat  ashes  of  more  value 
than  any  others;  and  I  am  persuaded  that,  could  they  be 
fairly  tested  by  some  of  our  best  cultivators,  great  good  would 
result  to  the  community.  Jf  the  farmers  in  England  can  afford 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  15 

to  keep  men  under  pay,  perpetually  burning  peat  for  the  sake 
of  the  ashes,  it  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  poor  of  our  com- 
munity may  be  placed  in  easier  circumstances,  as  respects  the 
article  of  fuel.  Thousands  of  acres  of  land  are  to  be  found  in 
the  States  of  New  York  and  New  Jersey,  and  within  a  few 
miles  of  this  city,  which  abound  with  peat  earth ;  and  the 
owners  of  such  have  already  begun  to  explore  their  treasures 
of  this  description.  Good  peat  burns  well  in  all  sorts  of  stoves 
and  grates,  whether  made  for  wood  or  coal,  and  also  on  the 
hearth ;  and  if  the  ashes  are  not  used  to  any  better  purpose 
than  other  ashes  have  hitherto  been,  it  is  the  cheapest  fuel 
known.  I  am  persuaded  that  this  subject  is  worthy  of  serious 
consideration  ;  and  if  the  editors  of  the  different  papers  would 
arouse  the  public  attention,  so  as  to  direct  some  of  our  most 
active  citizens  to  a  consideration  of  this  subject,  incalculable 
good  would  result  to  the  community  at  large. 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  SOIL. 

A  light,  sandy  soil  will  be  benefited  if  worked  when  moist, 
as  such  treatment  will  have  a  tendency  to  make  it  more  com- 
pact ;  on  the  contrary,  if  a  clayey  soil  be  worked  when  too  wet, 
it  kneads  like  dough,  and  never  fails  to  bind  when  drought 
follows ;  and  this  not  only  prevents  the  seed  from  rising,  but 
injures  the  plants  materially  in  their  subsequent  growth,  by  its 
becoming  impervious  to  moderate  rains,  dews,  air,  and  the 
influence  of  the  sun,  all  of  which  are  necessary  to  the  promotion 
of  vegetation. 

The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sandy  soil,  the  less 
retentive  will  it  be  of  moisture ;  the  more  to  a  clayey,  the 
longer  will  it  retain  moisture ;  and  the  finer  the  particles  of 
which  the  clay  is  composed,  the  more  retentive  will  it  be  of 
water,  and,  consequently,  the  longer  in  drying,  and  the  harder 
when  dry.  Bat  earth  of  a  consistence  that  will  hold  water 
the  longest,  without  becoming  hard  when  dry,  is,  of  all  others, 
the  best  adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  This  last  described  soil  is  called  loam, 


16  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

and  is  a  medium  earth,  between  the  extremes  of  clay  and 
sand. 

Many  gardens  can  never  be  brought  into  a  state  of  great 
productiveness  on  account  of  an  excess  of  water  in  the  soil. 
If  the  soil  be  heavy,  and  continues  wet  and  heavy  in  the  spring, 
let  it  be  drained  at  once.  After  this,  plough  deep,  pulverize 
thoroughly,  manure  highly,  keep  the  weeds  subdued,  and 
in  a  few  years  you  will  have  a  garden  that  will  produce 
anything  that  will  grow  in  your  locality.  If  the  soil  is  heavy, 
haul  on  muck,  sawdust,  chip  manure,  in  great  abundance ;  and 
when  such  substances  decay,  the  soil  will  be  light,  mellow,  and 
productive. 

ROTATION  OF  CROPS. 

Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to  is  the 
most  proper  rotation  of  crops.  Virgil,  who  was  a  philosopher 
as  well  as  a  poet,  very  justly  observes,  that  "  THE  TRUE  REPOSE 

OF  THE  EARTH  IS  A  CHANGE  OF  ITS  PRODUCTIONS." 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  a  plant  may  be  killed  by  the  poison 
which  it  has  itself  secreted,  as  a  viper  may  be  destroyed  by  its 
own  venom.  Hence  it  has  been  very  generally  noticed,  that 
the  soil  in  which  some  particular  vegetables  have  grown,  and 
into  which  they  have  discharged  the  excretions  of  "their  roots, 
is  rendered  noxious  to  the  prosperity  of  plants  of  the  same  or 
allied  species,  though  it  be  well  adapted  to  the  growth  and 
support  of  other  distinct  species  of  vegetables. 

It  is  proved  by  experience,  that  fall  Spinach  is  an  excellent 
preparative  for  Beets,  Carrots,  Radishes,  Salsify,  and  all  other 
tap,  as  well  as  tuberous-rooted  vegetables. 

Celery  or  Potatoes  constitute  a  suitable  preparative  for  Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower,  and  all  other  plants  of  the  JSrassica  tribe ; 
as  also  Artichokes,  Asparagus,  Lettuce,  and  Onions,  provided 
such  ground  be  well  situated,  which  is  a  circumstance  always 
to  be  duly  considered  in  laying  out  a  garden. 

Lands  that  have  long  lain  in  pasture  are,  for  the  first  three 
or  four  years  after  being  tilled,  superior  for  Cabbage,  Turnips, 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  17 

Potatoes,  etc.,  and  afterwards  for  culinary  vegetables  m  gene- 
ral 

The  following  rules  are  subjoined  for  further  government : 

Fibrous-rooted  plants  may  be  alternated  with  tap  or  tuberous- 
rooted,  and  vice  versa. 

Plants  which  produce  luxuriant  tops,  so  as  to  shade  the 
land,  should  be  succeeded  by  such  as  yield  small  tops  or  nar 
row  leaves. 

Those  which,  during  their  growth,  require  the  operation  of 
stirring  the  earth,  should  precede  such  as  do  not  require 
cultivation. 

Ground  which  has  been  occupied  by  Artichokes,  Asparagus, 
Rhubarb,  Sea  Kale,  or  such  other  crops  as  remain  long  on  a 
given  spot,  should  be  subjected  to  a  regular  rotation  of  crops 
for  at  least  as  long  a  period  as  it  remained  under  such  perma- 
nent crops.  Hence  in  all  gardens  judiciously  managed,  the 
Strawberry-bed  is  changed  every  three  or  four  years,  till  it  has 
gone  the  circuit  of  all  the  compartments ;  and  Asparagus-beds 
should  be  renewed,  on  the  same  principle,  as  often  as  they  fail 
to  produce  luxuriantly.  Indeed,  no  two  crops  should  be 
allowed  to  ripen  their  seed  in  succession  in  the  same  soil,  if  it 
can  be  avoided ;  because,  if  its  fertility  be  not  exhausted  by 
such  crops,  weeds  will  accumulate  more  than  on  beds  frequently 
cultivated. 

SEED  AND  SEEDING. 

I  am  an  advocate  for  early  sowing  and  planting,  even  at  the 
risk  of  losing  a  little  seed,  provided  the  ground  be  fit  to  receive 
it.  Some  gardeners,  as  well  as  some  writers,  recommend  cer- 
tain fixed  days  for  sowing  and  planting  particular  kinds  of 
seed ;  I  think  it  necessary  to  guard  my  readers  against  being 
misled.  The  failure  of  crops  may  be  often  attributed  to  the 
observance  of  certain  days  for  sowing.  If  some  kinds  of  seed 
be  sown  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  cold,  they  will  become 
chilled  ia  the  ground,  and  seldom  vegetate.  If  they  be  sown 
in  very  dry  weather,  the  germinative  parts  of  the  seed  may 
become  injured  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  or  the  young 


18  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

plants  may  get  devoured  by  insects  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 
To  obviate  these  difficulties,  I  have  generally  allowed  a  week 
or  ten  days  for  sowing  the  seed,  intending  the  medium  as  the 
proper  time  for  the  vicinity  of  New  York.  With  this  clearly 
borne  in  mind,  the  reader  who  observes  the  difference  in  the 
degrees  of  heat  and  cold  in  the  different  parts  of  the  country, 
will  know  how  to  apply  these  instructions  accordingly. 

PLANTING    IN   DRILLS. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  drills  to  be  made  at  cer- 
tain depths  for  the  different  kinds  of  seed ;  and  when  I  have 
stated  that  the  drills  should  be  two  inches  deep,  it  is  intended 
that  the  seed  should  be  covered  only  one  inch,  which  it  will  be 
when  planted  in  these  drills  and  covered ;  and  so  in  proportion 
for  any  other  depth  required.  This  may  serve  as  a  guide  to 
the  young  gardener;  but  circumstances  alter  cases.  If,  for 
instance,  some  particular  crops  should  fail,  this  would  render  it 
necessary,  if  the  season  be  far  advanced,  to  risk  a  further  plant- 
ing of  seed,  even  if  the  weather  be  hot  and  the  ground  dry. 
If  this  be  planted  a  little  deeper,  it  may  escape  the  violent  heat 
of  the  sun,  and  in  the  event  of  a  shower,  the  ground  would  be- 
come sufficiently  moist  to  bring  it  up  ;  whereas  it  sometimes 
happens  that  seed  sown  after  a  shower  does  not  v-getate  until 
after  the  season  is  too  far  advanced  to  bring  the  crop  to  perfection. 

The  work  of  drilling  by  those  who  have  no  machine,  may  be 
performed  in  various  ways ;  in  some  cases  a  plough  is  used,  in 
others  a  small  hoe,  or  a  dibble  drawn  along  the  edge  of  a  board 
or  line.  It  is  of  little  consequence  which  way  the  work  is  done, 
if  it  be  well  done.  While  I  leave  the  gardener  to  make  his  own 
choice  of  tools,  I  would  suggest  that  he  be  provided  with  two 
or  three  drilling  machines ;  these,  every  handy  man  can  make 
for  himself;  they  should  be  in  the  form  of  a  garden-rake,  with 
a  stout,  heavy  back,  and  five  teeth,  about  two  inches  broad, 
and  tapered  so  as  to  enter  the  ground  and  leave  drills  two 
inches  deep.  If  one  be  made  with  the  teeth  eight  inches  apart, 
another  twelve,  and  another  fourteen,  they  will  be  useful  ID 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  19 

making  drills  for  the  various  kinds  of  seed ;  and  drills  thus 
made  serve  instead  of  straining  a  line  when  transplanting  Cab- 
bage, Lettuce,  Leek  plants,  etc. ;  the  line  being  stretched  at 
one  edge  of  the  bed,  and  the  drilling  machine  drawn  straight 
by  the  line,  makes  five  drills  at  once.  If  they  are  straight,  they 
may  be  kept  so,  by  keeping  one  drill  open  for  the  outside 
tooth  to  work  in,  until  the  ground  be  all  drilled. 

Gardeners  practise  different  methods  of  covering  up  seed ; 
some  do  it  with  a  hoe,  others  with  a  rake  or  harrow ;  some 
draw  a  portion  of  the  earth  to  the  side  of  the  bed,  and  after 
sowing  the  seed,  return  it  regularly  over  the  bed ;  in  some 
particular  cases  a  sieve  is  used,  in  others  a  roller.  Boiling  or 
treading  in  seed  is  necessary  in  dry  seasons ;  but  it  should  never 
be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

Many  kinds  of  seed,  such  as  Asparagus,  Capsicum,  Celery, 
Fetticus,  Leek,  Lettuce,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Parsley,  Rhubarb, 
Salsify,  Spinach,  etc.,  will  not  vegetate  freely  in  dry  weather 
unless  the  ground  be  watered  or  rolled.  Where  there  is  no 
roller  on  the  premises,  the  following  contrivance  may  answer 
for  small  beds  as  a  substitute :  after  the  seed  is  sown,  and  the 
ground  well  raked,  take  a  board  the  whole  length  of  the  bed, 
lay  it  flat  on  the  ground,  begin  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and 
walk  the  whole  length  of  it ;  this  will  press  the  soil  on  the  seed ; 
then  shift  the  board  till  you  have  gone  over  the  whole  bed.  In 
the  absence  of  boards,  tread  in  the  seed  with  your  feet,  or 
strike  on  the  bed  with  the  back  of  your  spade  or  shovel ;  but 
this  should  not  be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

If  it  be  necessary  at  any  time  to  sow  seed  in  extremely  dry 
weather,  it  is  recommended  to  soak  the  seed  in  water,  and  dry 
it  with  sulphur.  This  practice,  with  attentive  watering,  will 
cause  the  seed  to  vegetate  speedily. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  seed  to  be  sown  in 
drills  drawn  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  in  preference  to 
sowing  broadcast ;  because  the  weeds  can  be  more  easily 
destroyed  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  which,  if  properly  used, 
greatly  promotes  the  growth  of  young  plants. 


20 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


If  it  should  be  requisite  to  transplant  anything  when  th« 
ground  is  dry,  .the  transplanting  should  always  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  earth  is  turned  over;  and  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
before  they  are  set  out,  should  be  steeped  in  mud  made  of  rich 
compost. 

TABLE    SHOWING    THE    NUMBER    OF    PLANTS    ON    AN   ACRE. 

The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  plants  or  treea 
that  may  be  raised  on  an  acre  of  ground,  when  planted  at  cer- 
tain distances  apart : — 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plants. 

1  foot 43,560 

H  feet 19,360 

2  feet 10,890 

2i  feet 6,969 

3  feet 4,840 

4  feet 2,722 

5  feet 1,742 

6  feet 1,210 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plants. 

9  feet 537 

12  feet  .....  302 

15  feet  .....  193 

18  feet 134 

21  feet 98 

24  feet 75 

27  feet 59 

30  feet  48 


The  preceding  table  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  such  as  are*  not 
expert  in  arithmetic,  in  laying  out  a  garden,  as  it  shows  at  one 
view  many  proportions  of  an  acre  of  land,  in  squares  of  dif- 
ferent dimensions.  The  last  line,  for  instance,  shows  that,  if 
forty-eight  trees  be  planted  on  an  acre,  each  thirty  feet  apart, 
there  may  be  forty-eight  beds  of  thirty  feet  square,  or  thirty 
beds  of  forty-eight  feet  square,  formed  from  the  same  quantity 
of  land.  An  allowance  of  about  one-eighth  must,  however,  be 
made  from  the  above  calculation  for  walks  and  paths. 

DISTRIBUTION    OF   MANURE. 

The  table  may  also  serve  to  show  the  gardener  how  to  dis- 
pose of  any  given  quantity  of  manure,  that  may  be  allotted 
for  an  acre  of  ground.  If,  for  instance  it  requires  three  hun- 
dred and  two  trees  to  plant  an  acre  when  placed  twelve  feet 
from  each  other,  it  will  require  as  many  heaps  of  manure  to 
cover  the  same  quantity  of  ground,  if  dropped  the  same  dis- 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  21 

tance  apart.  It  therefore  follows,  tliat  if  one  hundred  loads  be 
allowed  to  the  acre,  each  load  must  be  divided  into  three 
heaps.  If  seventy-five  loads  only  be  allowed,  every  load  must 
be  divided  into  four  heaps,  and  so  on  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  allowed.  But  if  the  gardener  should  choose  to  drop 
his  heaps  five  paces,  or  fifteen  feet  apart,  he  may  make  such 
distribution  of  his  loads  as  to  have  one  hundred  and  ninety- 
three  heaps  on  the  acre  of  land ;  in  which  case,  by  dividing 
each  load  into  four  heaps,  he  will  require  only  forty-eight  loads 
to  cover  the  acre,  and  he  may  decrease  the  quantity  still  more, 
by  allowing  greater  distances  from  heap  to  heap,  or  by  divid- 
ing his  loads  into  smaller  proportions,  so  as  to  accommodate 
himself  to  whatever  quantity  of  manure  he  may  allot  to  any 
given  quantity  of  ground. 

.       .  THE    VITALITY    OF   SEEDS. 

As  it  may  not  be  generally  known  that  some  kinds  of  seed 
are  apt  to  lose  their  vegetative  qualities  much  sooner  than 
others,  the  following  hints  are  subjoined  as  some  rule  for  the 
gardener's  government,  provided  the  seed  is  carefully  pre- 
served, and  not  exposed  to  excess  of  heat,  air,  or  dampness  : — 

Parsnip,  Rhubarb,  and  other  light,  scale-like  seeds,  cannot 
be  safely  trusted  after  they  are  a  year  old.  Beans  and  Peas 
of  different  species,  Capsicum,  Carrot,  Cress,  Leek,  Nastur- 
tium, Okra,  Onion,  Salsify,  Scorzonera,  and  small  herb-seed  in 
general,  may  be  kept  two  years.  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Egg- 
plant, Endive,  Fetticus,  Lettuce,  Mustard,  Parsley,  Skirret,  and 
Spinach-seed,  may  with  care  be  preserved  three  years.  Broc- 
coli, Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  Celery,  Kale,  Radish,  and  Turnip- 
seed  will  keep  four  years,  if  properly  attended  to.  Beet, 
Cucumber,  Gourd,  Melon,  Pumpkin,  and  Squash ;  also  Burnet, 
Chervil,  and  Sorrel-seed,  have  been  known  to  grow  freely  when 
five,  and  even  seven  years  old ;  but  it  is  not  prudent  to  ven- 
ture seed  in  the  garden,  or  any  other  place,  when  there  are 
any  apprehensions  that  any  portion  of  it  has  lost  its  vitality  by 
age,  or  in  any  other  way. 


22  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

In  order  to  put  such  on  their  guard  as  may  attempt  to  raise 
seed  either  for  their  own  use  or  for  the  market,  I  would 
observe  that  great  care  is  necessary ;  as  it  is  an  indubitable  fact, 
that  if  seed  of  similar  species  be  raised  near  each  other,  dege- 
neracy will  be  the  consequence.  It  is  therefore  difficult  for 
any  one  man  to  raise  all  sorts  of  seed,  good  and  true  to  their 
kind,  in  any  one  garden. 

If  roots  of  any  kind  become  defective,  they  are  unfit  for 
seed,  as  the  annexed  fact  will  show.  I  once  planted  for  seed 
some  beautiful  orange-colored  roots  of  Carrots ;  but  as  they 
had  been  previously  grown  with  some  of  a  lemon-color,  they 
produced  seed  of  a  mixed  and  spurious  variety  ;  and  as  this  is 
not  a  solitary  instance  of  degeneracy  from  the  like  cause,  I 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  that,  as  in  the  animal  frame,  so  it 
is  in  the  vegetable  system — disorders  frequently  lie  dormant 
from  one  generation  to  another,  and  at  length  break  out  with 
all  their  vigor.  I  would  therefore  advise  seed-growers  not  to 
attempt  to  "  bring  a  clean  thing  out  of  an  unclean ; "  but  if 
they  find  a  mixture  of  varieties  among  their  seed-roots,  to 
reject  the  whole,  or  they  will  infallibly  have  spurious  seed. 

SEEDS    OF    STONE    FRUIT. 

If  the  seeds  of  the  Apple,  Pear,  and  Quince,  and  the  pits 
of  the  Apricot,  Cherry,  Peach,  and  Plum,  were  not  planted  in 
autumn,  let  it  be  done  as  soon  as  the  earth  can  be  brought 
into  tillable  condition  in  the  spring,  because  exposure  to  frost 
is  usually  essential  to  their  vegetating,  unless  the  shells  are 
separated  by  some  means,  so  that  moisture  can  reach  the 
germs.  The  chief  object  of  exposing  pits  to  frost  is,  simply 
to  open  the  shell. 

CAUSES    OF   FAILURE    IN   THE    GERMINATION    OF   SEEDS. 

As  some  gardeners  attribute  all  failures  of  seed  to  germi- 
nate to  its  defectiveness,  I  shall  offer  a  few  observations  to 
convince  such  persons  of  their  error. 

Seeds  denominated  hardy  and  half-hardy,  are  subject  to  risk  in 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  23 

unpropitious  seasons,  from  unfitness  of  the  soil  to  promote  vege- 
tation, rendered  so  by  cold  rains  and  variable  weather.  If 
sprouted  seed  survive  a  severe  chill,  it  is  the  more  susceptible 
of  frost,  to  which  it  is  frequently  subjected  early  in  the  season. 
Some  species  of  plants  that,  in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth, 
will  stand  a  hard  winter,  are  often  cut  off  by  a  slight  frost  while 
germinating,  especially  if  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  after 
a  frosty  night,  or  while  in  a  frozen  state.  Cabbage,  Carrot, 
Celery,  Turnip,  and  many  other  growing  plants,  which  survive 
the  ordinary  winters  of  England,  are  here  classified  as  half- 
hardy,  for  the  reasons  above  stated. 

The  most  tender  species  of  plants  frequently  perish  from 
excess  of  rain.  Lima  Beans,  for  instance,  have  often  to  be 
replanted  three  or  four  times  in  the  month  of  May  before  any 
will  stand.  Melons,  Cucumbers,  Egg-plants,  Tomato  plants, 
etc.,  are  sometimes  cut  off  by  variableness  of  the  weather. 
Those  who  plant  tender  things  in  open  gardens  early  in  the 
season,  must  reconcile  themselves  to  loss  in  the  event  of 
unfavorable  weather,  instead  of  throwing  blame  on  the  seeds- 
man. 

Such  species  and  varieties  as,  from  their  nature,  are  apt  to 
vegetate  quickly,  are  very  liable  to  be  devoured  by  insects 
before  they  make  any  show  on  the  surface.  Turnip-seed,  for 
instance,  will  sprout  within  forty-eight  hours  after  being  sown  ; 
and  under  favorable  circumstances,  most  of  the  species  of  this 
class  will  come  up  within  a  week ;  but  if  insects  attack  the 
seed-beds  in  dry  weather,  a  total  loss  of  crops  will  be  the  con- 
sequence. Every  experienced  fanner  is  convinced  of  this  fact, 
by  having  frequently  to  sow  his  Turnip-ground  three  or  four 
times  before  he  can  get  any  to  stand. 

Sometimes  a  sudden  shower  of  rain  will  cause  plants  to 
grow  out  of  the  reach  of  insects ;  but  every  good  gardener 
should  have  his  remedies  at  hand  to  apply  to  seed-beds  in 
general,  and  especially  to  those  in  which  plants  are  raised  for 
the  purpose  of  being  transplanted.  The  seeds  of  some  plants 
require  from  two  to  three  or  four  weeks  to  vegetate  in  unfa- 


24  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

vorable  seasons.  Some  plants  are  retarded  by  cold,  others 
by  excess  of  dry  weather ;  and  at  such  times,  seed  may  fail  to 
vegetate  for  want  of  pressure.  In  the  event  of  drought  after 
heavy  rains,  seed  and  young  plants  often  perish  through 
incrustation  of  the  soil,  and  from  other  untoward  circum- 
stances, which  can  neither  be  controlled  nor  accounted  for, 
even  by  the  most  assiduous  and  precise  gardener.  It  must, 
however,  be  conceded,  that  failures  often  occur  through  seed 
being  deposited  too  deep  in  the  ground,  or  left  too  near  the 
surface.  Sometimes,  for  want  of  sufficiency  of  seed  in  a  given 
spot,  solitary  plants  will  perish,  they  not  having  sufficient 
strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the  earth  ;  and  frequently  inju- 
dicious management  in  manuring  and  preparing  the  soil  will 
cause  a  failure. 

I  have  been  induced  to  expatiate,  and  to  designate,  in  the 
seventh  range  of  the  preceding  table,  such  plants  as  are  generally 
cultivated  first  in  seed-beds  and  afterwards  transplanted  for  the 
purpose  of  being  accommodated  with  space  to  mature  in,  with 
a  view  to  answer  at  once  the  thousand  and  one  questions  asked 
by  inexperienced  cultivators. 

• 

QUANTITY    OF   SEED. 

Some  persons,  from  ignorance  of  the  nature  and  object  of 
raising  plants  for  transplanting,  ask  for  pounds  of  seed,  when 
an  ounce  is  amply  sufficient  for  their  purpose.  For  example, 
an  ounce  of  Celery-seed  will  produce  ten  thousand  plants.  An 
ounce  of  Cabbage-seed  will  produce  from  three  to  four  thou- 
sand ;  sufficient,  when  transplanted,  to  cover  nearly  half  an  acre 
of  land — which  land,  if  sown  with  spinach,  for  instance,  would 
require  from  four  to  six  pounds  of  seed. 

TIME    TO    COMMENCE    GARDENING. 

The  following  directions  for  the  management  of  a  garden 
are  founded  on  the  results  of  practical  experience  in  the  vicinity 
of  NEW  YORK  CITY,  where  the  soil  is  generally  susceptible  of 
gardening  operations  towards  the  end  of  March.  These  diroc- 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  25 

tions  may,  however,  be  applied  to  all  other  parts  of  the  UNITED 
STATES,  by  a  minute  observance  of  the  difference  in  temperature. 
In  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  the  State  of  New  York,  as 
well  as  in  all  other  places  similarly  situated,  the  directions  for 
the  beginning  of  April  will  apply  to  the  latter  part  of  the  same 
month,  with  very  few  exceptions.  In  our  SOUTHERN  STATES, 
the  directions  for  APRIL,  which  may  be  considered  as  the 
first  gardening  month  in  the  EASTERN,  WESTERN,  and  MIDDLE 
STATES,  will  apply  to  January,  February,  or  to  whatever  season 
gardening  operations  may  commence  in  the  respective  States. 
In  the  varied  climates  of  each  particular  State,  if  the  same  rule 
of  application  be  pursued,  success  is  certain. 

FORCING   VARIOUS    KINDS    OF   VEGETABLES. 

The  following  simple  Inethod  of  forcing  vegetables  on  a 
small  scale  is  recommended  by  a  correspondent  of  a  London 
magazine.  The  writer  says  : 

"  I  obtain  mushrooms  in  winter  by  a  very  simple  process. 
Provide  boxes  three  feet  long,  and  one  foot  eight  inches  deep ; 
a  quantity  of  horse-droppings,  perfectly  dry,  some  spawn,  and 
some  light  dry  soil.  Fill  the  boxes  by  layers  of  droppings, 
spawn,  and  soil,  which  must  be  well  trodden  down.  Repeat 
these  triple  layers  till  the  boxes  are  full,  and  all  trodden  firmly 
together.  Four  such  boxes  at  work  are  sufficient  for  a  mode- 
rate demand ;  and  out  of  a  dozen,  four  brought  in  at  a  time, 
and  placed  upon  a  flue  of  a  greenhouse  stove,  will  produce  a 
fine  supply.  The  surface  of  these  portable  beds  may  be  covered 
with  a  little  hay,  and  occasionally,  though  sparingly,  watered. 
It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  they  be  set  on  the  flue  of  a 
greenhouse ;  a  warm  stable,  cellar,  or  any  other  similar  place, 
will  suit  equally  well.  This  plan  is  also  convenient  for  afford- 
ing a  plentiful  stock  of  superior  spawn. 

"  The  same-sized  boxes  will  also  do  for  Asparagus ;  but  for 
this  purpose  a  sufficient  stock  of  three-year-old  plants  must  be 
at  hand ;  also  eighteen  boxes,  four  of  which  are  the  necessary 
set  to  be  forced  at  one  time  for  one  family.  Half  fill  the  boxes 

2 


26  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

•with  decayed  tanner's  bark,  leaf-mould,  or  any  similar  mould  j 
on  this  pack  the  roots  as  thickly  as  possible,  and  fill  up  the 
boxes  with  the  bark,  etc.  Any  place  in  a  forcing-house  will 
suit  them  where  they  can  enjoy  the  necessary  degree  of  heat. 
Besides  Asparagus  and  Mushrooms,  Sea-Kale,  Buda-Kale, 
Angelica,  small  salad,  and  various  potherbs  may  be  raised  in 
the  same  manner." 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences  recommended  in  a 
greenhouse,  may  place  the  boxes  in  a  hotbed.  The  glasses 
being  laid  on,  and  the  beds  covered  at  night,  will  soon  promote 
the  growth  of  the  plants,  and  produce  vegetable  luxuries  at  a 
season  when  garden  products  in  general  are  comparatively  scarce. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  show  of  how  much  value  such  processes 
may  be  in  minor  establishments,  or  in  a  new  country.  I  wish 
it  to  be  understood,  that  in  order  to  the  successful  cultivation 
of  some  of  the  rare  vegetables  I  have  treated  of,  great  pains 
must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  their  growth.  If  the  advice  I 
have  given  be  attended  to,  I  natter  myself  we  shall  soon  obtain 
a  supply  of  many  of  these  luxuries  of  the  garden.  My  directions 
are  founded  on  the  success  attending  the  practice  of  some  of  the 
best  gardeners  in  this  country.  I  have  also  had  sufficient  ex- 
perience to  warrant  me  in  this  attempt  to  contribute  my  mite 
towards  the  attainment  of  this  kind  of  useful  knowledge. 

•  HOTBEDS. 

For  the  purpose  of  raising  Mustard,  Cress,  and  other  salad- 
herbs,  also  Egg-plants,  Tomato-plants,  etc.,  in  small  quantities, 
a  hotbed  may  be  made  early  in  the  spring,  of  good  heating 
materials,  on  the  top  of  which  may  be  laid  leaf-moulci,  old  tan, 
or  light  compost,  to  the  depth  of  about  nine  inches.  The 
various  kinds  of  seed  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  flower-pots, 
and  plunged  in  the  top  mould  up  to  their  rims,  and  by  being 
well  attended  to,  a  supply  of  small  salads,  as  well  as  small  seed- 
ling-plants, may  be  raised  without  much  labor  or  difficulty. 
This  method  is  also  well  calculated  for  raising  annual  flower- 
plants  at  an  early  season. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  27 

ADAPTING    PLANTS    TO    SOILS. 

-  The  various  species  of  plants  which  occupy  our  greenhouses, 
gardens,  and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment — they 
having  been  collected  from  all  the  diversified  regions,  climates, 
and  soils  through  earth's  remotest  bounds;  they  consequently 
comprise  natives  of  mountains  and  rocks,  as  well  as  of  plains, 
valleys,  and  watercourses.  The  most  essential  aliment  for 
natives  of  warm  climates  and  dry  soils  being  HEAT,  artificial 
means  are  used  in  cool  seasons  and  unpropitious  climates  to 
produce  it.  Natives  of  temperate  climates  require  salubrious 
air,  hence  they  are  cultivated  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  our 
Northern  States  in  spring  and  autumn ;  and  in  our  Southern 
States  in  the  winter;  and  natives  of  humid  climates,  as  also 
amphibious  plants  in  general,  require  a  more  than  ordinary 
share  of  MOISTURE,  and  grow  best  in  wet  soil;  but  these 
THREE  ELEMENTS  collectively  constitute  the  food  of  plants  in 
general,  and  should  be  judiciously  imparted  to  the  various 
species,  in  due  proportions,  according  to  circumstances.  I 
have  also  shown  that  the  roots  of  various  species  of  plants 
require  each  their  peculiar  aliment,  which  is  not  to  be  found  in 
all  descriptions  of  land.  This  is  demonstrated  by  roots  of 
trees  being  frequently  discovered  spreading  beyond  their  ordi- 
nary bounds  in  quest  of  salutary  food. 

DEEP    PLANTING. 

Although  it  has  been  admitted  that  excessive  deep  planting 
of  trees  and  plants  is  injurious,  and  in  many  cases  fatal  to  their 
very  existence,  it  does  not  follow  that  all  annuals  and  biennials 
are  injured  by  the  same  means.  On  the  contrary,  the  earthing 
up  of  particular  species  of  plants  in  a  late  stage  of  growth  is 
calculated  to  promote  early  maturity,  which  constitutes  the 
most  essential  art  in  gardening  for  the  market ;  because  the 
earliest  crops  are  always  the  most  profitable.  ,  It  is  moreover  a 
necessary  practice  in  climates  where  the  seasons  for  gardening 
are  short — as  without  such  practice,  many  kinds  of  vegetables 


28  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

could  not  possibly  be  matured  in  due  season  for  gathering 
before  winter. 

I  would  here  take  the  opportunity  of  proving  this  last  posi- 
tion, by  reminding  the  reader  that  the  effect  of  deep  planting, 
in  the  Peach-tree  for  instance,  is  discoverable  soon  after  the  error 
is  committed,  by  its  fruit  ripening  prematurely,  and  this  is 
often  the  case  for  a  year  or  two  prior  to  its  final  decease,  and 
should  operate  as  a  salutary  lesson  against  planting  perennial 
plants  and  trees  too  deep.  I  would  urge  gardeners  and  culti- 
vators to  consult  the  operations  of  nature  in  all  their  rural 
pursuits ;  and  with  a  view  to  aid  them,  I  subjoin  the  fol- 
lowing rules,  which  are  further  illustrated  under  the  different 
heads : 

1.  In  transplanting  fruit-trees,  let  the  collar,  or  that  part  from 
which  emanate  the  main  roots,  be  near  the  surface.     A  medium- 
sized  tree  may  be  planted  an  inch  deeper  than  it  was  in  the 
nursery  bed ;  and  the  largest  should  not  exceed  two  or  three 
inches. 

2.  In  the  cultivation  of  such  plants  as  are  transplanted,  or 
grown  in  hills  or  clusters,  as  Indian  Corn,  etc.,  keep  the  earth 
loose  but  level  around  them  in  their  early  stages  of  growth,  by 
frequent   hoeing,  ploughing,  or   cultivating;  and  to  promote 
early  maturity,  throw  a  moderate  portion  of  earth  about  the 
roots  and  stems  at  the  last  or  final  dressing. 

3.  In  the  sowing  of  seed,  remember  that  IN  UNITY  THERE  is 
STRENGTH,  and  that  from  the  germinative  parts  of  a  seed  being 
weak   and   diminutive,   it   cannot  be   expected  to   perforate 
through  the  soil  solitary  and  alone.      To  insure  a  fair  chance, 
plant  your  seed  moderately  thick,  and  thin  out  the  surplus 
plants  while  young.     In  planting  seed  in  drills,  which  is  the 
most  eligible  plan,  the  size  of  the  seed  and  strength  of  its 
germ  should  be  considered.     Large  seed,  producing  vigorous 
roots,  requires  deeper  planting  than  diminutive  seed,  producing 
delicate  roots  and  slender  stalks. 

4.  In  the  choice  of  compost  for  exotic  or  greenhouse  plants, 
imitate  the  native  soil  of  each  peculiar  species  as  nearly  as 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  29 

possible,  by  a  judicious  mixture  of  maiden  earth,  loam,  sand, 
leaf,  swamp,  and  rock  mould,  decomposed  manures,  and  such 
other  composts  as  are  recommended  under  the  different  heads. 
Remember,  that  although  strong  manure  is  essential  to  the 
growth  of  some  plants,  it  is  poisonous  to  others.  PURSUE, 
THEN,  A  MEDIUM  COURSE.  From  your  soil  not  being  too  stiff 
nor  too  light,  too  rich  nor  too  poor,  too  cool  nor  too  warm, 
too  close  nor  too  porous,  if  not  positively  salutary  and  conge- 
nial to  all,  it  must  render  the  situation  of  each  endurable.  I 
again  repeat,  that  temperance  in  the  use  of  aliment  is  as 
essential  to  the  welfare  of  the  vegetable  family  as  it  is  to  the 
health,  happiness,  and  longevity  of  mankind. 

MEANS    FOR   REPELLING    INSECTS. 

There  is  nothing  that  protects  young  crops  of  Turnips, 
Cabbage,  and  other  small  plants,  from  the  depredations  of  the 
fly  so  well  as  rolling ;  for  when  the  surface  is  rendered  com- 
pletely smooth,  these  insects  are  "deprived  of  the  harbor  they 
would  otherwise  have  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps  of 
earth.  This  method  will  be  found  more  effectual  than  soaking 
the  seed  in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants  with  any 
composition  whatever ;  but  the  roller  must  only  be  used 
previous  to,  or  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  and  not  when 
the  soil  is  so  moist  that  it  will  pack  and  bake,  thus  forming  a 
crust  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  through  which  the  young 
plants  can  never  force  their  way. 

Turnip-seed  will  sometimes  sprout  in  forty-eight  hours. 
Cabbage-seed  ought  to  come  up  within  a  week  after  it  is  sown ; 
but  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  whole  is  destroyed  before  a 
plant  is  seen  above  ground.  The  seedsman,  in  this  case,  is 
often  blamed,  but  without  cause. 

A  correspondent  has  communicated  the  result  of  an  experi- 
ment he  has  tried  for  preventing  the  attacks  of  flies  or  fleas  on 
Turnips.  He  says :  "  Steep  your  seed  in  a  pint  of  warm 
water  for  two  hours,  in  which  is  infused  one  ounce  of  salt- 
petre ;  then  dry  the  seed,  and  add  currier's  oil  sufficient  to  wet 


30  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  whole ;  after  which  mix  it  with  plaster  of  Paris,  so  as  to 
separate  and  render  it  fit  for  sowing." 

As  the  truth  of  the  old  adage,  that  one  ounce  of  prevention 
is  of  more  value  than  a  pound  of  cure,  is  very  generally  admit- 
ted, I  would  recommend  the  following  method  of  preparing  a 
bed  for  the  purpose  of  raising  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Broccoli, 
and  such  other  plants  as  are  subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects : 
After  digging  or  ploughing  the  ground  in  the  usual  way,  col- 
lect any  combustibles  that  are  attainable,  as  dried  weeds, 
sedge,  turf,  brushwood,  leaves,  stubble,  corn-stalks,  sawdust,  or 
even  litter  from  the  dung-heap,  which  should  be  placed  in 
heaps  on  the  seed-beds  and  burned  to  ashes ;  then  rake  the 
ground  over  and  sow  the  seed,  which  will  not  be  attacked  by 
insects  while  the  effects  of  the  fire  remain.  In  the  event  of 
extremely  dry  weather,  water  the  beds  every  evening  until  the 
plants  are  in  full  leaf.  This  is  an  infallible  remedy. 

Fish  oil  is  known  to  be  destructive  to  ants  and  various  other 
Bmall  insects,  but  it  is  difficult  to  apply  to  plants. 

In  the  summer  season,  Broccoli,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  etc., 
are  particularly  subject  to  the  ravages  of  grubs  and  caterpil- 
lars. To  prevent  this  wholly,  is  perhaps  impossible  ;  still  it  is 
not  difficult  to  check  these  troublesome  visitors.  It  may  be 
done  by  searching  for  them  on  their  first  appearance,  and 
destroying  them.  Early  in  the  morning,  grubs  may  be  col- 
lected from  the  earth,  within  two  or  three  inches  of  such 
plants  as  they  may  have  attacked  the  night  previous. 

The  approach  of  caterpillars  is  discoverable  on  the  leaves 
of  Cabbages,  many  of  which  are  reduced  to  a  thin  wnite  skin 
by  the  minute  insects  which  emerge  from  the  eggs  placed  on 
them.  These  leaves  being  gathered  and  thrown  into  the  fire, 
a  whole  host  of  enemies  may  be  destroyed  at  once  ;  whereas, 
if  they  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  increase  so  rapidly, 
that  in  a  few  days  the  plantation,  however  extensive,  may 
become  infested  ;  and,  when  once  these  arrive  at  the  butterfly, 
or  moth  stage  of  existence,  they  become  capable  of  perpetu- 
ating their  destructive  race  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  31 

The  same  remarks  apply  to  all  other  insects  in  a  torpid 
state. 

Worms,  maggots,  snails,  or  slugs,  may  be  driven  away  by 
sowing  salt  or  lime  in  the  spring,  in  the  proportion  of  two  to 
three  bushels  per  acre,  or  by  watering  the  soil  occasionally 
with  salt  and  water,  using  about  two  pounds  of  salt  to  four 
gallons  of  water ;  or  the  slug  kind  may  be  easily  entrapped 
on  small  beds  of  plants,  by  strewing  slices  of  turnip  on  them 
late  in  the  evening,  on  which  the  slug  or  snail  will  readily 
crowd,  and  may  be  gathered  up  early  in  the  morning  (before 
sunrise)  and  destroyed. 

Moles  may  be  annoyed  and  driven  away,  by  obstructing  the 
passage  in  their  burrows  with  sticks  smeared  with  tar.  First 
insert  a  clean  stick  jrom  the  surface  through  the  burrows  ;  then 
dip  others  in  tar,  and  pass  them  through  into  the  floor  of  the 
burrows,  being  careful  not  to  rub  off  the  tar  in  the  operation. 
Tar  is  also  an  effectual  remedy  against  smut  in  wheat.  After 
being  heated  in  a  kettle  until  it  becomes  thin,  it  may  be 
stirred  in  among  the  grain  until  it  becomes  saturated.  The 
wheat  should  afterwards  be  mixed  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
wood  ashes  to  dry  and  render  it  fit  for  sowing.  Before  using 
tar,  however,  the  seed  should  be  steeped  in  warm  water  until 
the  germ  is  about  to  appear.  Otherwise,  tar  will  exclude  the 
necessary  moisture  to  insure  germination;  and  a  long  time 
will  elapse  before  the  plants  come  up.  And  if  too  much  tar 
be  employed,  they  will  never  come  up.  A  very  thin  coating 
of  tar  is  sufficient.  Coal-tar  is  better  than  pine  tar. 

To  prevent  depredations  from  crows,  steep  corn  in  strong 
saltpetre  brine,  sow  it  over  the  land,  or  steep  your  seed-corn  ; 
and  if  the  crows  once  get  a  taste,  they  will  forsake  the  field. 


32  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ARTICHOKE. 

ARTICHAUT.     Cynara. 

VARIETIES. 

Cynara  Scolymus,  or  French.        |         Cynara  Hortensis,  or  Globe. 

THE  garden  Artichoke  is  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe, 
and  much  cultivated  for  the  London  and /Paris  markets.  It 
is  a  perennial  plant,  producing  from  the  root  annually  its 
large,  *  squamose  heads,  in  full  growth,  from  June  or  July, 
until  October  or  November.  The  Globe  Artichoke,  which 
produces  large  globular  heads,  is  best  for  general  culture,  the 
heads  being  considerably  larger,  and  the  eatable  parts  more 
thick  and  plump. 

Both  sorts  may  be  raised  from  seed,  or  young  suckers  taken 
from  old  plants  in  the  spring.  A  plantation  of  Artichokes 
will  produce  good  heads  six  or  seven  years,  and  sometimes 
longer ;  but  if  a  supply  of  this  delicious  vegetable  be  required 
throughout  the  season,  a  small  plantation  should  be  made  from 
suckers  every  spring,  for  a  successive  crop,  as  the  young  plants 
will  continue  to  produce  their  heads  in  perfection  after  the 
crops  of  the  old  standing  ones  are  over. 

The  best  way  to  obtain  a  supply  of  Artichokes  from  seed  is 
to  sow  it  in  the  latter  part  of  March,  or  at  any  time  in  April, 
in  a  bed  of  good,  rich  earth ;  or  it  may  be  planted  in  drills  one 
inch  deep  and  about  twelve  inches  apart.  The  ground  should 
be  light  and  moist,  not  such  as  is  apt  to  become  bound  up  by 
heat,  or  that,  in  consequence  of  containing  too  large  a  propor- 
tion of  sand,  is  liable  to  become  extremely  hot  in  summer,  for 
this  is  injurious  to  these  plants.  After  the  plants  are  up,  they 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  33 

should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  the  earth  often  loosened 
around  them. 

The  business  of  transplanting  may  be  done  in  cloudy  or  wet 
weather,  at  any  time  after  the  plants  are  from  nine  to  twelve 
inches  high.  Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and  situation, 
lay  on  it  a  good  quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench  the 
ground  one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches  deep,  incorporating 
the  manure  therewith.  When  this  is  done,  take  up  the  plants ; 
and  after  shortening  their  tap-roots  a  little,  and  dressing  their 
leaves,  plant  them  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  five  feet  asunder,  and 
two  feet  from  plant  to  plant,  leaving  part  of  their  green  tops 
above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants  free  from  any  earth 
over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little  water  to  settle  the 
roots. 

WINTER    MANAGEMENT.  » 

The  winter  dressing  of  Artichokes  is  an  important  opera- 
tion ;  on  it  depends  much  of  their  future  success.  This  should 
not  be  given  them  as  long  as  the  season  continues  mild,  that 
they  may  have  all  possible  advantage  of  growth,  and  be  gradu- 
ally inured  to  the  increasing  cold  weather ;  but  it  should  not 
be  deferred  too  late,  lest  by  the  sudden  setting  in  of  hard 
frost,  to  which  we  are  subject  in  the  Northern  States,  the 
work  be  neglected,  and  the  plants  consequently  exposed  to 
devastation  and  loss. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the  ground, 
leaving  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts  of  the  plants. 
After  this,  line  and  mark  out  a  trench  in  the  middle,  between 
each  row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  wide,  presuming 
that  the  rows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed.  Then  dig  the 
surface  of  the  beds  lightly  from  trench  to  trench,  burying  the 
weeds ;  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  the  earth  around  the  crowns 
of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about  six  inches,  placing  it  in 
gently  between  the  young  rising  leaves,  without  burying  them 
entirely  under  it.  This  done,  dig  the  trenches  one  spade  deep, 
and  distribute  the  earth  equally  between  and  on  each  side  of 

2* 


34  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  plants,  so  as  to  level  the  ridges,  giving  them  at  the  same 
time  a  neat,  rounding  form. 

The  beds  may  remain  in  this  condition  until  there  is  an  ap- 
pearance of  hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light 
dung,  litter,  or  leaves  of  trees,  to  preserve  the  crowns  and  roots 
from  intense  cold.  In  this  manner  the  roots  will  remain  in 
perfect  safety  all  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  severe  frosts  are 
over,  the  beds  must  be  uncovered,  and  when  the  young  shoots 
begin  to  appear  above  ground,  then,  and  not  till  then,  level 
down  the  beds,  throwing  the  earth  into  the  alleys  or  trenches, 
and  round  them  in  a  neat  manner.  Then  dig  in  the  short 
manure,  and  loosen  all  the  earth  around  the  plants.  At  the 
same  time,  examine  the  number  of  shoots  arising  on  each 
stool,  and  select  three  of  the  strongest  and  healthiest  on  every 
stool,  which  are  to  remain ;  all  above  that  number  are  to  be 
broken  off  close  to  the  roots  with  the  hand,  unless  you  want 
some  for  making  new  plantations,  in  which  case  an  extra  num- 
ber for  that  purpose  is  to  remain  on  the  parent  plants,  until 
they  are  about  eight  or  ten  inches  high,  when  they  are  to  be 
slipped  off,  and  planted  in  a  bed  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  directed  for  the  young  plants,  taking  care  at  the  same  time 
to  close  the  earth  about  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  draw  it 
up  a  little  to  the  remaining  suckers. 

The  spring  dressing  should  be  given  when  the  plants  are  in 
the  above-described  state,  whether  that  occurs  in  February, 
March,  or  April,  occasioned  by  the  difference  of  climate  in 
the  respective  States,  or  by  the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the 
spring. 

The  gardeners  near  London  generally  take  off  the  side  suck- 
ers, or  small  Artichokes,  when  they  are  about  the  size  of  a 
hen's  egg.  These  meet  with  a  ready  sale  in  the  markets,  and 
the  principal  heads  that  are  left  are  always  larger  and  more 
handsome.  The  maturity  of  a  full-grown  Artichoke  is  appa- 
rent by  the  opening  of  the  scales;  and  it  should  always  be 
cut  off  before  the  flower  appears  in  the  centre;  the  stem 
should  be  cut  close  to  the  ground  at  the  same  time. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  35 

Artichokes  are  esteemed  a  luxury  by  epicures.  To  Lave 
them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  thrown  into  cold  water  as 
soon  as  gathered,  and  after  having  been  soaked  and  well 
washed,  put  into  the  boiler,  when  the  water  is  hot,  with  a 
little  salt,  and  kept  boiling  until  tender,  which  generally  re- 
quires, for  full-grown  Artichokes,  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to 
two  hours.  When  taken  up  drain  and  trim  them ;  then  serve 
them  up  with  melted  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and  such  other  con- 
diment as  may  best  suit  the  palate. 


ASPARAGUS. 

ASPERGE.     Asparagus  officinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend.  Large  Battersea. 

Large  White  Beading.  Large  Green,  or  Giant. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  cold  climates,  and  is  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  Russia  and  Poland,  where  it  is  eaten  by  the  cattle 
the  same  as  grass.  It  will  endure  the  severity  of  our  winters, 
and  produce  buds  when  the  weather  becomes  mild ;  but  as  gar- 
den products  are  generally  scarce  after  a  hard  winter,  the  gar- 
dener who  studies  his  interest  will  make  the  most  of  the  spring 
season,  and  raise  all  he  can  before  the  market  becomes  glutted. 
To  this  end  he  is  recommended  to  prepare  for  forcing  this 
vegetable  as  soon  as  the  coldest  of  the  winter  is  past.  (See 
article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.) 

Asparagus  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  fall  as 
soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March  and  the  early  part  of  April.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  a  thousand  plants.  It  re- 
quires some  of  the  best  ground  in  the  garden.  The  seed  may 
'  be  sown  in  drills,  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder,  and  covered 
about  an  inch  with  light  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up  they 
will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  well  cultivated  and  kept  free 


36  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

from  weeds,  they  will  be  large  enough  to  transplant  when  a 
year  old.  Some  keep  them  in  the  nursery-led  until  they  are 
two  years  old. 

If  the  beds  are  properly  dressed  every  year,  they  will  pro- 
duce well  for  twenty  years  or  more.  New  beds  may  be  made 
in  autumn,  or  before  the  buds  get  far  advanced  in  spring — say 
in  February,  March,  or  April,  according  to  situation  and  cir- 
cumstances. The  ground  for  the  bed  must  not  be  wet,  nor 
too  strong  or  stubborn,  but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and 
pliable,  so  that  it  will  readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or 
raking,  and  in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the  full  rays  of  the  sun. 
It  should  have  a  large  supply  of  well-rotted  dung,  three  or  four 
inches  thick,  and  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades  deep, 
and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  twelve  or  fifteen 
inches  below  the  surface.  When  this  trenching  is  done,  lay 
two  or  three  inches  of  thoroughly-rotted  manure  over  the 
whole  surface,  and  dig  the  ground  over  again,  eight  or  ten 
inches  deep,  mixing  this  top  dressing,  and  incorporating  it 
well  with  the  earth. 

ARRANGING   THE    YOUNG    PLANTS. 

In  family  gardens,  it  is  customary  tQ  divide  the  ground  thus 
prepared  into  beds,  allowing  four  feet  for  every  four  rows  of 
plants,  with  alleys  two  feet  and  a  half  wide  between  each  bed. 
Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  six  inches  from  the  edge ;  then 
with  a  spade  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill  close  to  the  line, 
about  six  inches  deep,  making  that  side  next  the  line  nearly 
upright;  when  one  trench  is  opened,  plant  that  before  you 
open  another,  placing  the  plants  upright  ten  or  twelve  inches 
distant  in  the  row,  and  let  every  row  be  twelve  inches  apart. 

The  plants  must  not  be  placed  flat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of  it,  and  so  that 
the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also  stand  upright,  and  two  or 
three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  spreading  their 
roots  somewhat  regularly  against  the  back  of  the  trench,  and 
at  the  same  time  drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  37 

the  hand  as  you  place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due 
position  until  the  row  is  planted.  When  one  row  is  thus 
placed,  draw  the  earth  into  the  trench  over  the  plants  with  a 
rake  or  hoe,  and  then  proceed  to  open  another  drill  or  trench, 
as  before  directed ;  and  fill  and  cover  it  in  the  same  manner, 
and  so  on  till  the  whole  is  planted.  Then  let  the  surface  of 
the  beds  be  raked  smooth,  and  the  stones  removed. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  have  extra  large  heads, 
place  their  plants  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  instead 
of  twelve ;  and  by  planting  them  in  the  quincunx  manner — 
that  is,  by  commencing  the  second  row  eight  inches  from  the 
end  of  the  first,  and  the  fourth  even  with  the  second — the 
plants  will  form  rhomboidal  squares,  instead  of  rectangular 
ones,  and  every  plant  will  thus  have  room  to  expand  its  roots 
and  leaves,  growing  very  luxuriantly. 

The  above  directions  are  intended  for  family  gardens. 
Those  who  may  wish  to  raise  Asparagus  in  large  quantities 
for  market,  should  prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  and 
plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  which  may  be  carried  to  any 
length  required.  If  several  beds  are  wanted,  they  may  be 
planted  in  single  rows,  four  or  five  feet  apart,  in  order  that 
the  plough  may  be  worked  freely  between  them.  Frequent 
ploughing  will  cause  the  roots  to  spread,  so  as  to  widen  the 
beds  ;  and  the  winter  dressing  may  be  performed  in  a  great 
measure  with  the  plough.  After  the  Asparagus  is  cut,  the 
ground  between  the  beds  may  be  ploughed,  and  planted  with 
Cabbage,  Potatoes,  or  any  other  vegetable  usually  cultivated 
in  rows. 

WINTER   DRESSING    OF    ASPARAGUS-BEDS. 

About  the  beginning  of  November,  if  the  stalks  of  Aspa- 
ragus turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having  finished  their 
growth  for  the  season,  cut  them  down  close  to  the  earth,  carry 
them  off  the  ground,  and  clear  the  beds  carefully  from  weeds. 

Asparagus-beds  must  have  an  annual  dressing  of  good 
manure ;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over  the  beds,  two  or  three 


38  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

inches  thick,  after  which,  with  a  fork  made  for  the  purpose 
(which  should  have  three  flat  tines),  dig  in  the  dung  quite 
down  to  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  by  which  means  the  roots 
will  be  greatly  benefited;  as  the  winter  rains  will  wash  the 
manure  down  among  them.  It  is  the  practice  with  some  gar- 
deners to  dig  the  alleys  at  every  autumn  dressing,  and  cover 
the  beds  with  the  soil  taken  out ;  this  may  be  done  for  the 
first  two  years  after  the  beds  are  made,  but  not  afterwards. 
When  the  plants  are  in  full  growth,  their  roots  and  crowns 
extend  into  the  alleys,  and  digging  them  up  frequently  will 
destroy  plants,  or  render  them  too  weak  to  produce  buds  in 
perfection.  The  beds  will  be  greatly  benefited  if  covered  to 
the  depth  of  several  inches  with  leaves,  sea-weed,  or  long 
litter  from  the  livery-stables. 

The  seedling  Asparagus  should  also  have  a  slight  dressing. 
Eemove  the  weeds,  and  then  spread  light  dung  over  it,  to  the 
depth  of  one  or  two  inches,  to  defend  the  crown  of  the  plants 
from  intense  cold. 

SPRING    DRESSING    OF   THE    BEDS. 

This  work  should  be  done  from  about  the  latter  end  of 
March  to  the  middle  of  April,  or  just  before  the  buds  begin  to 
rise.  After  clearing  away  all  long  litter,  spread  the  short  dung 
over  the  whole  surface,  and  dig  it  in.  If  the  alleys  be  dug  at 
the  same  time,  it  will  be  beneficial  to  the  plants.  Care  must 
be  taken  at  this  season  not  to  wound  the  crowns  with  the  tines 
of  the  fork ;  but  forking  the  beds  should  not  be  neglected,  as 
admitting  the  sun  and  rain  into  the  ground  induces  the  plants 
to  throw  up  buds  of  superior  size.  To  promote  such  a  desirable 
object,  the  ground  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds  at  all  seasons, 
as  these  greatly  impoverish  the  soil,  and  frequently  smother 
the  plants. 

Every  bed  of  Asparagus  should  be  allowed  to  grow  undis- 
turbed, after  the  buds  or  stalks  have  been  removed  for  a  few 
weeks ;  otherwise  the  beds  will  not  produce  abundantly  next 
season.  There  is  great  danger  of  injuring  the  productiveness 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  39 

of  Asparagus  by  cutting  off  every  shoot  as  soon  as  it  is  a  few 
inches  high.  One  stalk  at  least  should  be  allowed  to  grow 
unmolested  in  every  crown  after  the  third  or  fourth  cutting. 
If  the  young  shoots  be  cut  off  for  several  successive  weeks, 
the  top  formed  in  the  latter  part  of  the  season  will  be  small 
and  the  growth  feeble. 

No  fertilizing  material  should  be  applied  to  Asparagus  in 
the  spring  but  lime  or  salt.  During  the  winter  it  is  an  excel- 
lent practice  to  throw  all  the  soapsuds  from  the  kitchen  on 
the  asparagus-beds ;  but  as  soon  as  the  growing  season  com- 
mences, let  salt  be  spread  over  the  entire  surface,  until  the 
ground  appears  as  if  covered  with  snow.  Such  a  liberal  dress- 
ing of  salt  will  destroy  all  weeds  and  grass,  and  promote  the 
growth  of  Asparagus. 

Asparagus-plants  will  not  produce  buds  large  enough  to  cut 
for  general  use  in  less  than  three  years  from  the  time  of  plant- 
ing ;  but  in  the  fourth  year,  when  the  shoots  are  three  or  four 
inches  high,  they  will  bear  extensive  cutting,  which  should, 
however,  be  discontinued  when  no  large  buds  are  thrown  up. 
The  best  way  of  cutting  is  to  slip  the  knife  down  perpendicu- 
larly close  to  each  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  slantingly  about  three  or 
four  inches  beneath  the  ground,  taking  care  not  to  wound  any 
young  buds  proceeding  from  the  same  root,  for  there  are 
always  several  shoots  advancing  in  different  stages  of  growth. 

Asparagus  is  considered  a  wholesome  vegetable,  and  should 
not  be  kept  long  after  it  is  gathered.  After  being  well  washed, 
it  may  be  tied  in  bundles  of  about  a  dozen  buds  each,  and 
boiled  in  water,  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  until  tender,  which 
will  be  in  about  twenty  mhiutes.  Take  it  up  before  it  loses 
its  true  color  and  flavor,  and  serve  it  up  on  toasted  bread  with 
melted  butter.  Asparagus  will  never  grow  luxuriantly  when 
there  is  an  excess  of  moisture  in  the  soil.  Bone-dust  is 
excellent  as  a  dressing  for  asparagus-beds,  if  applied  in  late 
autumn.  Guano  and  hen  manure  are  also  the  best  kinds  of 
manure  for  asparagus.  If  the  soil  is  heavy,  apply  a  thin 
dressing  of  sand  ev«ry  season  with  the  manure. 


40  KITCHEN-GARDENING 

BEANS.     (English  Dwarfs.) 
FEVE  DE  MARAIS.     Vicia  faba. 

The  principal  cause  of  these  garden  Beans  not  succeeding 
well  in  this  country,  is  the  summer  heat  overtaking  them  beforo 
they  are  podded,  which  causes  the  blossom  to  drop  off  prema- 
turely. To  obviate  this  difficulty,  they  should  be  planted  as 
early  in  the  spring  as  possible.  They  are  generally  planted  in 
England  from  October  to  April,  for  early  crops,  and  from  that 
time  to  July,  for  late  crops.  It  sometimes  happens  that 
autumn  plantings  are  injured  by  the  coldness  of  their  winters  ; 
but  an  average  crop  is  generally  obtained.  . 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  if  a  few  of  the 
best  varieties  of  these  Beans  be  planted  in  the  open  ground,  as 
soon  in  the  season  as  it  can  be  brought  into  good  condition, 
they  will  come  into  bearing  in  regular  succession,  according  to 
their  different  degrees  of  earliness;  and  plantings  may  be 
repeated  every  ten  days  of  the  first  spring  month ;  but  it  is 
only  from  those  which  are  planted  early  that  any  tolerable 
produce  can  be  expected,  as  they  become  deficient  in  quality 
as  well  as  in  quantity  on  the  approach  of  extreme  warm 
weather.  In  the  Southern  States  they  may  be  replanted  in. 
succession  throughout  the  autumn  and  winter  months,  which 
will  cause  them  to  bear  early  in  the  ensuing  season. 

The  best  mode  of  planting  is  in  drills,  drawn  two  inches 
deep,  in  which  the  seed  Beans  may  be  dropped  two  or  three 
inches  apart,  according  to  their  size,  and  the  drills  may  be 
from  two  to  three  feet  asunder.  A  strong  clayey  soil,  if  well 
drained,  is  the  most  suitable  ;  but  they  often  do  well  in  mode- 
rately light  ground,  provided  it  be  well  trodden,  or  rolled,  after 
the  Beans  are  planted. 

As  soon  as  the  Beans  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
will  need  a  careful  hoeing ;  and  if  some  earth  be  drawn  up  to 
their  stems  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  their  growth, 
it  will  greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them.  When  they  arrive 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  41 

at  full  bloom,  and  the  lower  pods  begin  to  set,  the  tops  may  be 
broken  off.  If  this  be  done  at  the  proper  time,  it  will  pro- 
mote the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity ; 
for  having  no  advancing  tops  to  nourish,  the  whole  effort  of 
the  root  will  go  to  the  support  of  the  fruit. 

DESTROYING    GREEN    BUGS. 

Broad  Beans  are  particularly  subject  to  green  bugs.  To- 
bacco-water, or  salt-water,  will  sometimes  destroy  them,  but 
the  most  certain  way  is  to  watch  their  first  appearance,  and 
pick  off  that  part  on  which  they  first  settle,  and  burn  it ;  or  if 
such  plants  be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground,  they  will  produce 
fresh  shoots,  which  may  bear  a  good  crop.  One  quart  of  seed 
Beans  will  be  required  for  every  sixty  feet  of  row,  allowing  the 
smallest  sorts  to  be  planted  about  two  inches  apart,  and  the 
largest  four  inches.  The  beans  should  be  gathered  young,  and 
shelled  while  fresh.  After  having  been  washed,  let  them  be 
boiled  in  plenty  of  water  with  a  little  salt  and  a  bunch  of  green 
parsley.  They  take  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to  boil, 
according  to  age,  and  may  be  served  up  with  melted  butter 
gravy.  But  they  are  very  good  when  cooked  and  eaten  with 
fat  pork,  or  good  old-fashioned  Hampshire  bacon. 


BEANS.     (Kidney  Dwarfs.) 
HARICOT.     Phaseolus  vulgaris,  etc. 

These  varieties  of  Beans,  being  natives  of  India,  South 
America,  and  other  warm  climates,  will  not  endure  the  least 
cold,  and  it  is  therefore  always  hazardous  to  plant  them  in  the 
open  ground  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  earliest  varie- 
ties, if  planted  towards  the  end  of  April  or  the  first  week  in 
May,  will  come  to  perfection  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks  after 
planting.  Some  of  the  later  varieties  will  keep  longer  in  bear- 
ing, and  are  esteemed  by  some  on  that  account.  These,  with 


42  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

some  of  the  early  varieties,  may  be  planted  in  the  months  of 
May  and  June ;  and  if  a  regular  succession  of  young  beans  be 


Kidney  Beans.  Dumpling  Beans. 

required  throughout  the  summer,  some  of  the  varieties  should 
be  planted  every  two  weeks,  from  the  last  week  in  April  until 
the  beginning  of  August. 

These  Beans  require  a  light,  rich  soil,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  three  or  four  in  a  hill,  or  drills  about  two 
inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  from  each 
other;  the  drills  may  be  from  two  to  three  feet  apart.  The 
Refugees  do  best  when  planted  in  hills. 

Some  gardeners,  anxious  to  have  Beans  early,  are  apt  to 
begin  planting  too  soon  in  the  season,  and  very  frequently  lose 
their  first  crops.  It  should  be  recollected  that  these  Beans  are 
next  to  Cucumbers  and  Melons  as  regards  tenderness,  and  will 
always  grow  quicker  and  yield  better,  if  the  planting  be 
delayed  until  settled,  warm  weather.  The  early  Mohawk  is 
the  hardest,  and  may  sometimes  succeed  well  if  planted  about 
the  middle  of  April ;  but  it  is  much  safer  to  delay  the  planting 
of  any  quantity  until  towards  the  end  of  the  month. 

One  quart  of  Kidney  Beans  will  plant  from  three  hundred 
and  fifty  to  four  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
Beans,  allowing  four  Beans  to  each  hill,  or  from  two  hundred 
and  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  of  row,  allowing 
six  Beans  to  every  foot. 

These  Beans  should  not  be  suffered  to  get  old  and  tough 
before  they  are  gathered.  Be  careful,  in  trimming  them,  to 
strip  off  the  strings.  To  effect  this  desirable  object,  break 
them  across ;  and  in  order  to  preserve  their  greenness,  soak 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  43 

them  in  salted  water  for  a  short  time,  then  put  them  into 
the  water  while  boiling,  which  should  be  previously  seasoned 
with  salt.  When  they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes,  take  them  up  and  drain  them  through 
a  colander,  in  order  to  render  them  capable  of  absorbing  a 
due  share  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  etc. 


BEANS.     (Pole  or  Running.) 

HARICOTS  A  RAMES. 

These  species  and  varieties  of  Beans  may  be  planted  early 
in  the  month  of  May  and  in  June,  either  in  hills  three  feet 
apart  or  in  drills  about  two  inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two 
or  three  inches  apart  in  the  drills.  The  poles  should  be  eight 
or  ten  feet  long,  and  should  be  fixed  in  the  ground  before  the 
Beans  are  planted,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  roots  in  making  the 
holes. 

The  varieties  of  Lima  Beans  should  not  be  planted  in  the 
open  ground  until  the  second  week  in  May,  unless  the  season 
be  very  favorable  and  the  ground  warm.  As  these  Beans 
are  apt  to  get  rotten  by  cold  and  damp  weather,  let  six  or 
eight  be  planted  half  an  inch  deep  round  each  pole,  and  after- 
ward thinned,  leaving  three  or  four  good  plants  in  a  hill, 
which  should  be  full  four  feet  distant  from  each  other  every 
way. 

Lima  Beans  require  richer  ground  than  any  of  the  other 
sorts.  A  shovelful  of  rich,  light  compost,  mixed  with  the 
earth  in  each  hill,  would  be  beneficial.  If  any  varieties  are 
wanted  before  the  ordinary  seasons,  they  may  be  planted  in 
flower-pots  in  April,  and  placed  in  a  greenhouse  or  garden- 
frame  ;  and  being  transplanted  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire, 
will  come  into  bearing  ten  or  fourteen  days  earlier  than  those 
planted  in  the  open  ground.-  It  will  require  about  a  quart  of 
Lima  Beans  to  plant  one  hundred  hills.  A  quart  of  the 
smallest-sized  Pole  Beans  will  plant  three  hundred  hills  and 


44  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

upwards,  or  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  row.  Lima 
Beans  should  be  shelled  while  fresh,  and  boiled  in  plenty  of 
water  until  tender,  which  generally  takes  from  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty minutes.  The  mode  of  cooking  and  preparing  the  other 
sorts  is  the  same  as  for  Kidney  Dwarfs. 


BEET. 

BETTERAVE.     Beta  vulgaris. 

Beets,  in  their  several  varieties,  are  biennial ;  and  the  best 
blood-colored  are  much  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  their  roots, 
which  are  excellent  when  cooked,  and  very  suitable  for  pick- 
ling after  being  boiled  tender.  When  sliced,  they  make  an 
beautiful  garnish  for  the  dish,  and  the  young  plants  are  an 
excellent  substitute  for  Spinach. 

The  Mangel-Wurzel  and  Sugar  Beets  are  cultivated  for 
cattle.  Domestic  animals  eat  the  leaves  and  roots  with  great 
avidity.  They  are  excellent  food  for  swine  and  milch  cows, 
and  possess  the  quality  of  making  them  give  a  large  quantity 
of  the  best-flavored  milk.  The  roots  are  equally  fit  for  oxen 
and  horses,  after  being  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  mixed 
with  cut  straw,  hay,  or  other  dry  feed.  A  small  bed  of  the 
earliest  Turnip-rooted  and  other  esteemed  kinds  of  Beets  may 
be  planted  in  rich,  early  ground  the  first  week  in  April,  which, 
being  well  attended  to,  will  produce  good  roots  in  June. 

Make  drills  a  foot  apart  and  from  one  to  two  inches  deep ;  drop 
the  seed  in  the  drills  one  or  two  inches  from  each  other,  and 
cover  them  with  mellow  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up  strong, 
thin  them  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterwards  hoed 
deep  around  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds. 

If  the  planting  of  Beet-seed  for  general  crops  be  delayed 
until  May  or  June,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger  and  better 
than  those  from  earlier  planting,  which,  from  being  frequently 
stunted  in  growth  by  the  various  changes  of  weather,  become 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  45 

tough,  stringy,  and  of  unhandsome  shape.  In  case  of  the 
failure  of  crops,  or  of  unfavorable  weather  in  June,  Beet-seed 
planted  the  first  week  in  July  will  sometimes  produce  large, 
handsome  roots,  which  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  Beets  is  that  which  has  been 
well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no  fresh  manure 
provided  it  be  well  pulverized.  It  is  always  best  to  thin  Beets 
while  young.  If  the  tops  are  used  as  a  vegetable,  they  should 
not  be  left  too  long  for  this  purpose,  or  they  will  greatly  injure 
the  roots  of  those  that  are  to  stand.  Beds  that  are  to  stand 
through  the  summer,  should  be  kept  clean  by  repeated  hoe- 
ings  ;  and  the  roots  intended  for  winter  use  should  be  taken 
up  in  October,  or  early  in  November.  Allowing  Beet-seed  to 
be  planted  on  the  gardening  plan,  it  will  require  at  the  rate  of 
ten  pounds  for  an  acre  of  land.  If  cultivated  on  the  field  sys- 
tem— that  is,  by  planting  them  a  sufficient  distance  apart  to 
admit  of  ploughing  between  each  row — one  half  the  quantity 
of  seed  will  be  sufficient.  Thinning  out  the  surplus  plants  is 
indispensable  to  the  production  of  good  roots. 

An  acre  of  rich,  loamy  soil  has  been  known  to  yield  two 
thousand  bushels  of  roots,  some  of  which  weighed  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  pounds  each.  To  produce  such  large  roots,  they 
should  be  cultivated  in  drills  from  two  to  three  feet  apart,  and 
the  plants  thinned  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  the  rows.  It  is 
generally  conceded,  however,  that  moderate-sized  roots  contain 
more  saccharine  matter,  in  proportion  to  their  bulk,  than  extra 
large  roots;  and  that  twenty  tons,  or  about  seven  hundred 
bushels,  are  a  very  profitable  crop  for  an  acre  of  land,  and 
would  be  amply  sufficient  to  feed  ten  cows  for  three  or  four 
months  of  the  year.  A  gentleman  in  Connecticut  computes 
the  products  of  one-fourth  of  an  acre  of  good  land  at  eight 
tons,  which,  he  says,  will  support  a  cow  the  whole  year. 

Beets  will  usually  produce  more  milk  than  turnips ;  and 
milk-dealers  will  always  pay  more  for  a  bushel  of  good  beets 
than  for  an  equal  quantity  of  turnips. 


46  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

BORECOLE,  OR  KALE. 

CHOU  FRISE  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 

There  are  several  sub-varieties  of  this  genus  of  plants  besides 
those  above  specified,  most  of  which  have  large  open  heads, 
with  curled  wrinkled  leaves.  The  Dwarf  Curled,  or  Finely 
Fringed  sorts,  are  much  cultivated  in  Europe  for  the  table ; 
and  the  coarse  and  tall-growing  are  considered  profitable  for 
cattle.  The  Thousand-headed  Cabbage,  and  Cesarean  Kale, 
grow  from  three  to  five  feet  high,  and  branch  out  from  the 
stem,  yielding  an  abundant  supply  of  leaves  and  sprouts  in 
winter  and  spring. 

For  the  garden,  these  several  varieties  may  be  treated  in 
every  respect  as  Winter  Cabbage.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  first  week  in  June,  and 
the  plants  set  out  in  the  month  of  July,  in  rich  ground.  They 
are  never  so  delicious  as  when  rendered  tender  by  smart  frosts. 
They  are  valuable  plants  to  cultivate,  particularly  in  more 
Southern  States,  as  they  will  be  there  in  the  greatest  perfection 
during  the  winter  months.  If  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  and 
in  a  sheltered  warm  situation,  they  will  bear  the  winter  of  the 
Western  States;  and  may  be  kept  in  great  perfection  in  the 
Eastern  States,  if  taken  up  before  the  frost  sets  in  with  much 
severity,  and  placed  in  trenches,  up  to  their  lower-  leaves,  and 
then  covered  with  straw  or  other  light  covering.  The  heads 
may  be  cut  off  as  they  are  required  for  use ;  and  in  the  spring, 
the  stems  being  raised  up,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  deli- 
cious greens. 

One  ounce  of  good  Borecole  seed  will  produce  about  four 
thousand  plants,  and  may  be  sown  in  a  border  four  feet  by  ten. 


BRUSSELS  SPROtJTS. 

CHOU  DE  BRUXELLES  AGETS.     Brassica  oleracea. 
This  plant  frequently  grows  from  three  to  five  feet  high,  and 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  47 

produces  from  the  stem  small  heads  resembling  cabbages  in 
miniature,  each  being  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter. 
The  top  of  the  plant  resembles  the  Savoy,  when  planted  late. 
The  sprouts  are  used  as  winter  greens,  becoming  very  tender 
when  touched  by  the  frost.  The  seed  may  be  sown  about  the 
middle  of  May,  in  the  same  manner  as  Borecole,  and  the  plants 
set  out  with  a  dibble  early  in  July.  The  subsequent  treatment 
must  be  in  every  respect  as  for  Borecole. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  furnish  the  New  York  mar- 
kets with  greens  early  in  the  spring  season,  when  vegetables 
in  general  are  scarce,  cultivate  the  common  Rape  (Brassica 
JKapus),  it  being  a  good  substitute  for  Brussels  Sprouts,  which 
are  not  always  attainable  after  a  hard  winter.  If  Rape-seed 
be  sown  early  in  September,  the  plants  will  survive  an  ordinary 
winter,  and  produce  top-shoots  or  sprouts  early ;  but  it  is  best 
sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  susceptible  of  cultivation  in 
the  spring.  The  sprouts  should  be  cut  while  young,  as  such 
greens  command  the  best  prices,  and  are  more  palatable  than 
when  far  advanced  in  growth. 

In  cooking  these  sprouts  and  Kale,  Colewort,  and  greens  in 
general,  they  should  be  put  into  hot  water,  seasoned  with  salt, 
and  kept  boiling  briskly  until  tender.  If  it  be  an  object  to 
preserve  their  natural  color,  put  a  small  lump  of  pearlash  into 
the  water. 


BROCCOLI. 

CHOU  BROCCOLI.  Brassica  oleracea  Italiana. 
The  several  varieties  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  may  be 
justly  ranked  among  the  greatest  luxuries  of  the  garden. 
They  need  only  be  known  in  order  to  be  esteemed.  The  Broc- 
coli produces  heads,  consisting  of  a  lump  of  rich  seedy  pulp 
like  the  Cauliflower,  only  that  some  are  of  a  green  color,  others 
purple,  some  brown,  and  the  white  kinds  so  exactly  resemble 


48  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  true  Cauliflower,  as  to  be  scarcely  distinguishable,  either 
in  color  or  taste. 

Broccoli  is  abundant  throughout  England  the  greater  part 
of  the  year ;  and  is  raised  with  as  little  trouble  as  Cabbages 
are  here.  The  mode  of  raising  the  purple  Cape  Broccoli  is 
now  generally  understood  in  this  part  of  America ;  but  the 
cultivation  of  the  other  kinds  has  been  nearly  abandoned,  on 
account  of  the  ill-success  attending  former  attempts  to  bring 
them  to  perfection. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  where  the  winters  are  not 
more  severe  than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the  open 
ground,  and  continue  to  produce  their  fine  heads  from  Novem- 
ber to  April.  In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  if 
the  seed  of  the  late  kinds  be  sown  in  April,  and  the  earlier 
kinds  in  May,  in  open  ground,  and  treated  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  Cauliflower,  it  would  be  the  most  certain  method  of 
obtaining  large  and  early  flowers ;  but  as  only  a  part  of  these 
crops  can  be  expected  to  come  to  perfection  before  the  ap- 
proach of  winter,  the  remainder  will  have  to  be  taken  up,  laid 
in  by  the  roots,  and  covered  up  with  earth  to  the  lower  leaves 
in  some  sheltered  situation,  where  they  will  come  to  more  per- 
fect maturity. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  Broccoli  and  Cauli- 
flower in  a  large  quantity,  so  as  to  have  all  the  different  vari- 
eties in  succession  throughout  the  winter  months,  should  have 
places  erected  similar  to  some  of  our  greenhouses.  The  back 
and  roof  of  such  a  house  may  be  made  of  refuse  lumber,  which 
being  afterwards  covered  with  fresh  stable-dung,  will  keep  out 
the  frost.  The  place  allotted  for  Cape  Broccoli  and  Cauli- 
flower should  have  a  glazed  roof  to  face  the  south ;  the  sashes 
must  be  made  to  take  off  in  mild  weather,  but  they  should  be 
always  kept  shut  in  cold  weather,  covered  with  mats,  boards, 
or  litter,  to  keep  out  the  frost. 

The  hardy  kinds  of  Broccoli  may  be  preserved  without 
glass,  by  having  shutters  provided  to  slide  over  the  front  in 
extremely  cold  weather,  which  may  be  covered  over  with  fresh 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  49 

stable-dung  or  other  litter.  If  these  plants  get  frozen,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  shade  them  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun  until 
they  are  thawed,  which  may  be  done  by  spreading  straw  over 
them  while  they  are  in  the  bed.  The  sudden  transition  from 
cold  to  heat  is  more  destructive  to  vegetables  than  the  cold 
itself. 

The  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  of  Purple  Cape  Broc- 
coli is  from  the  tenth  to  the  twenty-fourth  of  May.  Those 
who  intend  to  provide  a  place  for  the  winter-keeping  of  the 
other  kinds,  may  sow  seed  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  at 
the  same  time,  or  in  two  or  three  separate  sowings,  a  week 
apart. 

In  order  to  insure  plants  of  a  luxuriant  growth,  let  the  seed 
be  sown  in  a  moderately  shaded  border.  It  is  best  to  sow  it 
in  shallow  drills,  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart,  in  which 
case,  one  ounce  of  seed  will  occupy  a  border  of  about  four  feet 
in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  produce  about  four  thousand 
strong  plants.  (See  article  Cabbage,  page  53.) 

When  the  plants  are  of  sufficient  size  they  should  be  trans- 
planted into  rich  ground,  which  should  be  previously  brought 
into  good  condition.  This  being  done,  plant  them  in  rows 
two  feet  and  a  half  apart,  and  two  feet  distant  in  the  rows. 
As  soon  as  they  have  taken  root  give  the  ground  a  deep  hoe- 
ing, and  repeat  this  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  their 
growth,  drawing  some  earth  around  the  stems. 

Some  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  if  attended  to  as  directed,  will 
come  to  perfection  early  in  September  and  in  October,  The 
other  kinds  will  produce  heads  in  regular  succession  through- 
out the  winter  and  spring  months,  according  to  their  different 
degrees  of  earliness,  if  an  artificial  climate  be  provided  for 
them.  These,  of  course,  with  whatever  may  remain  of  the 
Cape  Broccoli,  will  have  to  be  taken  up  early  in  October,  and 
laid  in  carefully,  with  the  roots  and  stems  covered  with  earth 
as  far  as  their  lower  leaves.  Those  who  have  not  a  place  pro- 
vided may  keep  a  few  in  frames,  or  in  a  light  cellar;  but 
every  gardener  and  country  gentleman  should  have  suitable 

3 


50  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

places  erected  for  a  vegetable  that  yields  such  a  delicious 
repast,  at  a  time  when  other  luxuries  of  the  garden  cannot  be 
obtained. 

It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments,  that  the  Pur- 
ple Cape  Broccoli  succeeds  'better  in  our  climate  than  any 
other  variety ;  and  also,  that  if  Broccoli  or  Cauliflower  plants 
be  retarded  in  growth  by  extreme  heat,  they  seldom  arrive  at 
full  perfection.  It  is  therefore  important  that  the  time  of  sow- 
ing the  seed  of  Cape  Broccoli  be  so  regulated  as  to  allow  six 
weeks  of  the  summer  for  the  plants  to  grow  in,  previous  to 
their  being  transplanted,  and  about  seven  or  eight  weeks 
between  that  and  the  commencement  of  cool  autumn  weather, 
which  is  essential  to  mature  them. 

If  seed  "be  sown  much  before  the  middle  of  May,  or  so  early 
that  the  plants  arrive  at  full  growth  in  the  heat  of  summer, 
and  thereby  become  stunted,  they  generally  button,  instead  of 
forming  perfect  heads  of  flowers,  and  are  consequently  of  no 
use  but  for  cattle. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States  late  planting  of  Broccoli  and 
Cauliflower  succeeds  better  than  early,  because  the  winters  are 
calculated  to  mature  these  vegetables,  from  their  not  being  sub- 
ject to  injury  from  slight  frost  in  a  late  stage  of  their  growth. 


CAULIFLOWER. 

CHOUFLEUR.     JBrassica  oleracea  botrytis. 

This  is  an  excellent  vegetable,  and  great  pains  must  be 
taken  in  every  stage  of  its  growth  to  avoid  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold,  which  accounts  for  good  Cauliflowers  being 
scarcely  attainable  in  unpropitious  seasons,  and  which  the 
novice  falsely  attributes  to  defectiveness  of  the  seed. 

To  produce  early  Cauliflower,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
between  the  sixteenth  and  twenty-fourth  of  September,  in  a 
bed  of  clean,  rich  earth.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  after- 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  51 

wards,  the  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  another  bed,  at 
the  distance  of  four  inches  from  each  other  every  way ;  and 
this  bed  should  be  encompassed  with  garden  frames,  covered 
with  glazed  sashes,  and  boards  or  shutters.  The  plants  should 
be  watered  and  shaded  a  few  days  till  they  have  taken  root ; 
and  afterwards  they  will  require  light  and  air  every  mild  day 
throughout  the  winter.  But  the  outsides  of  the  frames  must 
be  so  lined  and  secured,  and  the  tops  of  the  beds  so  covered, 
as  to  keep  out  all  frost. 

The  plants  should  be  well  attended  to  until  the  time  of 
transplanting  in  the  spring ;  and  those  who  have  not  hand  or 
bell  glasses,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  set  some  out  by  the  lat- 
ter end  of  March,  should  have  a  frame  ready  about  the  last 
week  in  February,  in  order  that  they  may  be  transplanted  to 
the  distance  of  eight  or  nine  inches  apart.  This  would  prevent 
them  from  buttoning.  If  this  be  not  done,  some  of  the 
strongest  plants  should  be  taken  out  of  the  beds  and  planted 
in  flower-pots,  which  may  afterwards  be  placed  in  a  frame  or 
greenhouse,  until  the  weather  be  warm  and  settled,  which  may 
be  expected  soon  after  the  middle  of  April.  They  should 
then  be  turned  out  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  and  trans- 
planted into  a  bed  of  the  richest  earth  in  the  garden,  at  the 
distance  of  two  feet  and  a  half  from  each  other  every  way ; 
the  residue  may  be  taken  up  from  the  frame  the  last  week  in 
April,  or  earlier,  if  the  season  proves  mild,  by  means  of  a  gar- 
den trowel,  and  transplanted  as  above. 

The  plants  should  afterwards  be  well  cultivated,  by  hoeing 
the  ground  deep  around  them,  and  bringing  some  earth  gra- 
dually up  to  the  stems,  so  as  to  push  them  forward  before  the 
approach  of  warm  weather.  When  the  soil  has  been  drawn 
up  to  the  plants  some  little  time,  fork  the  ground  between  the 
rows  lightly  over,  which  will  promote  their  growth.  Those 
out  of  flower  should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water  in  dry 
weather,  twice  a  week,  and  those  in,  every  other  day,  which 
will  contribute  to  their  producing  very  large  heads.  As  the 
flower-heads  appear,  the  larger  leaves  should  be  broken  down 


52  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

over  them,  to  defend  them  from  the  sun  and  rain,  in  order  that 
the  heads  or  pulps  may  be  close,  and  of  their  natural  color. 

Plants  from  the  autumn  sowing  will  generally  succeed  best ; 
but  good  Cauliflowers  are  sometimes  produced  from  seed  sown 
in  a  hotbed  towards  the  end  of  January,  or  early  in  Febru- 
ary. Great  pains  must  be  taken  to  have  the  bed  in  good  con- 
dition to  receive  the  seed.  When  the  plants  are  up,  they  must 
have  air  every  mild  day,  and  as  they  progress  in  growth,  they 
should  have  as  much  air  as  possible,  consistent  with  their  pre- 
servation ;  but  the  beds  must  be  kept  covered  up  every  night, 
as  long  as  there  is  any  danger  of  frost.  When  the  plants  are 
three  or  four  inches  high,  they  must  be  pricked  out  three  or 
four  inches  apart  into  another  bed ;  and  by  the  latter  end  of 
April  they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  ground,  and  treated 
in  every  respect  the  same  as  the  other. 

In  the  early  part  of  May,  Cauliflower-seed  may  be  sown  in 
the  open  border,  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  Broccoli.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  four  thousand  plants.  These 
plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  June,  and  transplanted  into 
good  ground  early  in  July,  to  flower  in  autumn.  Those  that 
are  not  likely  to  flower  by  the  last  of  October,  should  be 
taken  up  and  provided  for  in  the  manner  recommended  for 
Broccoli. 

Cauliflower  as  well  as  Broccoli,  should  be  gathered  while 
the  pulp  is  close  and  perfect.  After  having  trimmed  off  some 
of  the  outside  leaves,  let  them  be  boiled  in  plenty  of  water 
seasoned  with  salt,  taking  care  to  skim  it,  and  also  to  ease  the 
cover  of  the  pot,  so  as  not  to  confine  the  steam.  Take  them 
up  as  soon  as  the  fork  will  enter  the  stems  easily,  which  will 
be  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  size  and 
age.  Drain  them,  so  as  to  make  them  susceptible  of  absorbing 
a  due  proportion  of  gravy  or  melted  butter.  This  renders 
them  a  palatable  and  dainty  dish. 

Many  persons  are  apt  to  forget,  that  the  successful  cultiva- 
tion of  Cauliflower  depends  on  the  particular  seasons  in  which 
the  plants  are  raised  and  set  out.  Consequently,  instead  of 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  63 

raising  their  own  plants  in  the  right  seasons,  apply  for  them  at 
the  seed-stores  and  gardens,  in  May  and  June.  If  early  Cau- 
liflower do  not  arrive  at  or  near  perfection,  by  the  end  of 
June,  the  plants  get  stunted  by  the  heat,  and  seldom  yield  any- 
thing but  leaves,  unless  the  summer  should  prove  mild,  in 
which  case  some  of  the  early  plants  may  flower  in  autumn. 
But  it  is  needless  to  risk  the  setting  out  of  early  Cauliflower 
plants  later  than  April  for  the  sake  of  such  chance,  because 
plants  raised  from  seed  sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  and 
transplanted  in  July,  are  by  far  the  most  likely  to  produce 
good  fall  Cauliflower. 


CABBAGE. 

CHOU.     Brassica  oleracea. 

The  early  sorts  of  spring  Cabbage  may  be  raised  in  various 
ways.  Some  sow  the  seed  between  the  tenth  and  twenty- 
fourth  of  September,  pricked  out  and  managed  the  same  as 
Cauliflower  plants,  only  that  they  are  more  hardy,  and  may 
sometimes  be  kept  through  the  winter  without  sashes. 

Some  prefer  sowing  the  seed  in  a  cold-bed,  covered  by  a 
garden-frame  with  sashes.  If  this  frame  be  placed  on  a  warm 
border,  and  kept  free  from  frost,  and  the  seed  of  the  early  kinds 
sown  the  latter  end  of  January,  or  early  in  February,  these 
plants  will  be  better  than  those  raised  in  the  fall ;  as  they  will 
not  be  so  liable  to  run  to  seed,  will  be  more  hardy,  and  as  early 
as  those  raised  in  hotbecls  in  the  spring. 

Or,  if  a  heap  of  fresh  horse-manure  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  raising  of  early  plants  before  the  frost 
sets  iu,  the  same  may  be  removed  some  mild  day  in  January  or 
February,  and  temporary  frames  made  by  driving  stakes  in  the 
ground,  and  nailing  planks  or  slabs  thereto.  The  ground  being 
then  dug,  the  seed  sown,  and  covered  up  with  sashes,  plants 
will  soon  be  produced  in  perfection.  The  frames  should  be 


54  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

well  protected,  by  placing  the  manure  around  them,  and  cover- 
ing the  tops  with  mats  and  boards,  as  directed  for  hotbeds  in 
the  Calendar  for  February  and  March. 

It  is  customary  with  gardeners  about  New  York  to  raise 
their  plants  in  hotbeds.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  beds  should 
be  prepared  in  time  to  receive  the  seed  by  the  latter  end 
of  February,  or  early  in  March.  Plants  thus  produced,  as  well 
as  those  raised  as  before  directed,  will  be  fit  to  transplant  about 
the  middle  of  April,  and  should  be  carefully  planted,  with  a 
suitable  dibble,  in  good  ground,  from  sixteen  inches  to  two  feet 
apart,  according  to  size  and  kind.  By  being  hoed  often,  good 
Cabbages  will  be  produced  in  our  latitude  in  June.  If  seed  of 
the  large  and  early  kinds  be  sown  in  a  warm  border  early  in 
April,  they  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant  in  May,  which 
will  make  good  Cabbages  for  summer  use. 

The  seed  of  Red  Cabbage  may  be  sown  towards  the  last  of 
April,  or  early  in  May ;  and  that  of  Savoys  and  late  Cabbage  in 
general,  may  be  sown  at  two  or  three  different  times,  between 
the  middle  and  the  end  of  May,  in  fresh  rich  ground. 

The  most  certain  way  of  raising  good  strong  plants  in  the 
summer  season,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  a  moderately  shaded  bor- 
der, in  shallow  drills  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart.  One 
ounce  of  seed  sown  in  this  manner,  will  occupy  a  border  of 
about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  produce  about 
four  thousand  strong  plants ;  whereas,  if  seed  be  sown  broad- 
cast, as  is  the  usual  custom,  two  ounces  of  seed  may  not  pro- 
duce so  many  good  plants  as  the  one  ounce  on  the  plan  recom- 
mended. 

The  Bergen,  and  other  large  kinds,-  should  be  transplanted 
the  second  and  third  week  in  July,  in  rows  thirty  inches  asun- 
der, and  the  plants  about  two  feet  apart  in  the  rows.  The  Sa- 
voys and  smaller  sorts  may  be  planted  about  the  same  time,  but 
from  four  to  six  inches  nearer  every  way.  Cabbage  succeeds 
best  in  a  fresh,  rich  soil;  and  the  ground  should  be  deeply 
hoed  or  ploughed  at  least  three  times  during  their  growth. 

As  I  have  been  more  familiar  with  the  cultivation  of  vege- 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  55 

tables  than  fruits,  I  would  state  further  my  views  relative  to  the 
Cabbage  tribe.  On  New  York  Island,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
city,  it  is  customary  with  gardeners  to  cut  their  Cabbages 
gradually  as  they  are  required  for  market,  and  often  to  leave 
their  roots  standing.  These  by  some  are  ploughed  under,  where 
they  not  only  feed,  but  generate  their  peculiar  species  of  in- 
sects. Some  gardeners  take  their  roots  and  leaves  to  the 
cattle  yard  or  dung-heap,  and  return  them  back  to  the  garden 
the  ensuing  season  in  the  shape  of  manure.  As  a  consequence 
of  such  practice,  good  Cabbages  are  very  seldom  obtained,  even 
after  a  routine  of  other  crops,  for  two  or  three  years. 

EVIL    OF    DEEP    PLANTING. 

With  a  view  to  illustrate  the  evil  of  deep  planting,  I  would 
observe  further,  that  when  Cabbage  plants  are  transplanted  in 
proper  season  and  on  fresh  soil,  they  generally  prove  uniformly 
good ;  whereas,  if  it  should  happen,  as  it  sometimes  does  for 
want  of  suitable  weather,  that  the  plants  cannot  be  transplanted 
until  they  get  crooked  and  overgrown,  so  as  to  require  deep 
planting  to  support  them  in  the  soil,  such  plants,  like  diseased 
Peach-trees,  decay  first  in  the  bark,  between  earth  and  air,  and 
then,  from  being  deprived  of  a  natural  circulation  of  the  vege- 
table juices,  die  and  discharge  their  putrid  matter  in  the  earth, 
to  the  destruction  of  such  other  plants  as  may  be  inserted  in 
their  stead.  I  have  frequently  known  a  land  of  Cabbage 
plants  filled  up  half-a-dozen  times,  and  the  crop  at  last  scarcely 
worth  gathering ;  whereas  could  the  plants  have  been  set  out 
while  dwarfish,  and  inserted  their  proper  depth  in  the  ground, 
the  cultivator  would  have  been  rewarded  a  hundredfold. 

The  Brassica  Rapa,  or  Turnip-Cabbage,  produces  its  bulb 
or  protuberance  on  the  stems  above  ground,  immediately  under 
the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  or  about  the  size  of  a 
garden  Turnip.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  April  or  May,  and 
the  plants  afterwards  treated  the  same  as  Cabbage,  only  that  in 
earthing  up  the  plants  you  must  be  careful  not  to  cover  the 


56  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

globular  part.  They  are  much  more  hardy  than  Turnips.  In 
England  the  bulbs  often  grow  to  upwards  of  twenty  inches  in 
circumference,  and  weigh  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds.  They 
are  cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as  well  as 
for  table  use.  In  either  case,  they  are  treated  like  Cabbage,  or 
sowed  like  Turnips,  and  afterwards  thinned  to  proper  dis- 
tances. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  or  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage,  has  an 
oblong  thick  root  in  the  form  of  a  winter  Radish.  It  is  ex- 
tremely hardy,  and  will  survive  very  hard  frosts.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  rich  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect  as 
Turnips,  observing  to  thin  the  plants  with  a  hoe  to  the  distance 
of  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much  larger  and 
better  when  treated  in  this  way  than  if  transplanted. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  variety  esculenta,  is  sometimes  cultivated 
as  a  salad  herb.  It  is  held  in  great  esteem  by  the  French  as  a 
culinary  vegetable,  and  is  called  the  Navet,  or  French  Turnip. 
In  France,  as  well  as  in  Germany,  few  great  dinners  are  served 
up  without  it  in  some  shape  or  other. 

HOW   TO    KEEP    CABBAGES. 

As  numerous  species  of  insects  attack  plants  of  the  Brassica 
or  Cabbage  tribe  in  every  stage  of  their  growth,  great  caution 
is  necessary  in  their  cultivation.  For  a  prevention  to  the  at- 
tacks of  fleas  or  flies,  see  page  29  of  the  General  Remarks. 
Perhaps  the  most  effectual  way  of  saving  plants  from  grub- 
worms,  is  not  to  transplant  any  during  the  month  of  June. 
Seed-beds  are  very  seldom  attacked;  but  if  they  should  be, 
they  may  be  protected  by  digging  trenches  around  them,  and 
throwing  in  lime,  salt,  or  ashes,  sufficient  to  prevent  the  ingress 
of  the  worms.  If  seed  of  the  various  kinds  be  sown  at  the 
times  recommended,  the  early  varieties  will  be  so  far  advanced 
in  growth  before  the  grub-worms  prevail,  as  to  be  out  of  their 
reach  ;  and  by  the  time  the  late-sown  plants  are  ready  to  trans- 
plant, the  worms  will  be  harmless,  because  they  turn  grey 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  57 

towards  the  end  of  June,  and  by  the  middle  of  July,  the  time 
recommended  for  general  transplanting,  the  danger  from  grub- 
worms  is  over. 


Section  of  Cabbage  Pit* 

In  the  colder  portions  of  the  country,  those  cabbages  that 
have  not  attained  their  full  growth,  if  set  in  rich  ground  as  they 
grew,  in  a  pit,  before  cold  weather  commences,  late  in  autumn, 
and  covered  with  a  roof  of  boards  and  earth,  as  shown  by 
the  illustration,  will  be  nicely  headed  by  the  opening  of  spring. 
The  engraving  needs  no  explanation  to  enable  any  person  to 
construct  a  cabbage-pit. 

In  some  parts  of  New  Jersey  and  Long  Island,  where  we 
sometimes  see  forty  or  fifty  acres  of  cabbage  in  one  field,  a 
deep  furrow  is  ploughed,  the  heads  are  cut  from  the  stumps 
and  placed  upside  down,  close  together  in  the  furrow,  and 
two  furrow-slices  turned  over  the  row  of  heads.  The  ridge 
is  then  smoothed  off  with  a  shovel.  Some  gardeners  allow  the 
stumps  of  the  cabbages  to  extend  above  ground.  But  the 
better  way  is  to  remove  the  stumps. 


COLEWORT,  OR  COLLARDS. 

CHOU  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea. 

This  is  a  species  of  Cabbage  which  is  eaten  when  young ;  it  so 
nearly  resembles  the  early  kinds  of  Cabbage,  that  it  is  seldom 
cultivated.  The  English  frequently  sow  the  seed  of  early-head- 

3* 


58  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

ing  kinds  of  Cabbage  as  a  substitute,  which  being  done  at  dif- 
ferent seasons,  enables  them  to  procure  a  supply  of  fresh  greens 
from  their  gardens  every  day  in  the  year.  This  is  not  attain- 
able here,  on  account  of  the  extremes  of*  heat  and  cold;  but 
Collards  would  prove  very  valuable  and  acceptable  in  the  event 
of  an  unfavorable  season  for  fall  cabbage. 

If  the  seed  of  Early  York,  Early  Dutch,  or  other  early  kinds 
of  Cabbage  be  sown  in  June,  July,  and  August,  and  transplanted, 
as  they  become  fit,  into  good  ground  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches  apart,  the  first  planting  would  make  good  heads  for  fall 
use ;  and  the  plants  of  late  sowings,  if  transplanted  in  Septem- 
ber and  October,  in  a  warm  border,  would  produce  tender, 
sweet-eating  greens  for  use  in  the  early  part  of  winter ;  the  lat- 
ter plantings  may  be  placed  ten  or  twelve  inches  from  plant  to 
plant.  These  could  be  easily  sheltered  on  the  approach  of 
severe  weather,  without  being  taken  up.  The  cultivation  of 
Collards  is  well  adapted  to  our  Southern  States,  as  there  they 
need  no  protection  in  winter. 


CARDOONS. 
CARD  ON.     Cynara  cardunculus. 

The  Cardoon  Artichoke,  a  native  of  Candia,  is  much  culti- 
vated in  Europe  for  culinary  purposes,  such  as  for  salads,  soups, 
stews.  The  stems  of  the  leaves  being  thick  and  crisp,  are  the 
eatable  parts,  after  being  blanched.  They  are  in  perfection  in 
autumn  and  winter. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth  in  the  month 
of  April;  and  one  ounce  will  produce  about  six  hundred 
plants.  When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  thin- 
ned so  as  to  leave  them  four  or  five  inches  apart.  They  may 
be  transplanted  in  June,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  from  each 
other  every  way.  Observe,  before  planting,  to  dress  their 
tops  and  roots  the  same  as  Celery.  As  they  advance  in 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  59 

growth,  they  are  to  be  earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping  the 
leaves  close  together.  This  may  be  done  with  bass  or  matting, 
as  practised  with  Endive.  They  are  afterwards  to  be  earthed 
up  gradually  from  time  to  time,  until  whitened  to  a  sufficient 
height.  As  winter  approaches,  Cardoons  must  be  taken  up 
and  laid  away  like  Celery,  or  they  may  be  preserved  with  sand 
in  a  cellar. 


CARROT. 
CAROTTE.     Daucus  carota. 

The  Carrot  is  a  native  of  Britain,  and  grows  by  the  roadside 
in  many  parts.  As  a  culinary  vegetable,  it  is  much  used  in 
soups  and  stews,  and  forms  a  dish  with  boiled  beef,  etc.  The 
coarse  sorts  are  cultivated  as  fodder  for  cows,  sheep,  oxen,  and 
horses,  and  are  considered  profitable,  as  they  frequently  yield 
upwards  of  four  hundred  bushels  to  an  acre,  when  cultivated 
on  the  field  system. 

For  the  garden,  the  Early  Orange  should  be  cultivated  for 
spring  and  summer  use ;  but  the  Long  Orange  is  more  suitable 
for  main  crops,  on  account  of  its  bright  orange  color,  as  well 
as  for  its  great  size  and  length.  Carrots  grow  to  great  perfec- 
tion in  a  rich  loamy  soil ;  and  may  be  raised  in  drills  drawn 
about  one  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  asunder.  A  small  bed 
may  be  planted  at  the  latter  end  of  March  for  an  early  crop, 
and  from  that  time  to  the  end  of  May  for  successive  crops ; 
but  the  principal  crop  should  not  be  sown  too  soon,  as  the 
early  plantings  are  apt  to  produce  seed-stalks,  and,  conse- 
quently, stringy  and  useless  roots. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  late  Carrots  is  that  which  has 
been  well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no  fresh 
manure.  If  the  seed  be  sown  in  June,  and  the  plants  thinned 
out  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  from  each  other  when 
young,  and  kept  hoed,  they  will  yield  an  abundance  of  fine 


60  KITCHEN-GARDENING, 

roots  for  winter  and  spring  use,  by  being  taken  up  in  autumn, 
and  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or  covered  up  in  pits 
in  a  garden,  as  directed  for  burying  potatoes. 

Although  Carrot-seed  is  naturally  small  and  light,  it  seldom 
fails  to  vegetate  in  favorable  seasons.  It,  therefore,  need  not 
be  sown  too  thick  in  ground  not  apt  to  produce  weeds.  If  a 
root  could  be  insured  to  grow  unmolested  in  every  instance 
where  a  seed  may  be  deposited,  two  pounds  would  be  more 
than  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land.  But  gardeners  generall} 
use  four  or  five  pounds  to  the  acre,  in  order  that  the  rows  may 
be  more  easily  traced  in  the  event  of  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
weeds.  To  avoid  risking  an  unequal  crop  in  small  gardens, 
half  an  ounce  of  seed  should  be  allotted  for  every  pole,  perch 
or  rod,  or  twenty  ounces  for  a  rood  of  land.  On  light  ground, 
the  use  of  a  roller  would  be  beneficial  in  dry  weather,  excess 
of  which  is  detrimental  to  the  germination  of  Carrot,  as  well 
as  of  all  other  light  seed. 

We  herewith  give  an  illustration  of  a  full-grown  carrot, 
before  the  leaves  are  removed,  for  the  purpose  of  stimulating 
those  who  have  commenced  raising  a  crop  of  this  kind  of  roots, 
to  persevere  in  the  thorough  cultivation  of  the  young  plants. 
Carrots  require  timely  cultivation,  while  the  plants  are  quite 
small,  before  their  growth  has  been  checked  by  weeds. 

As  soon  as  the  rows  can  be  discovered,  if  they  are  sufficient- 
ly far  apart  to  admit  a  horse-hoe,  let  that  implement  be  run 
between  the  rows  as  shallowly  as  practicable,  to  cut  up  the  weeds. 
This  should  be  done  when  the  sun  shines,  in  order  to  kill  every 
weed  that  is  disturbed.  After  cultivating  with  a  horse-hoe,  go 
over  all  the  rows  with  a  hand-hoe,  drawing  the  hoe  across  the 
drills  every  eight  inches,  cutting  up  every  green  thing.  After 
this  operation  is  completed,  there  will  be  one  or  more  carrots 
standing  among  every  little  cluster  of  weeds.  Immediately 
after  a  good  shower  of  rain,  summon  all  hands,  and  finish 
weeding  the  young  carrots,  which  are  tender  plants,  and  will 
not  endure  bruising  like  turnips.  When  the  weeds  are  pulled 
up,  knock  off  the  earth  and  spread  them  carefully  around  the 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


61 


An  Orange  Carrot 

young  plants.  Such,  weeds  will  soon  decay,  and  promote  the 
growth  of  carrots  by  operating  as  a  mulch,  as  well  as  a  fer- 
tilizer. If  no  horse-hoe  is  at  hand,  all  the  dressing  may  be 
done  with  a  scuffle-hoe,  which  is  far  better  than  an  ordinary 
haid-hoe.  With  a  scuffle-hoe,  the  operator  moves  backwards, 
leaving  all  the  weeds  and  grass  lying  up  lightly ;  while,  if  the 
hoeing  be  performed  with  a  hand-hoe,  many  of  the  weeds  will 
be  pressed  by  the  feet  into  the  mellow  soil,  where  they  take 
root  and  continue  to  grow  about  as  well  as  if  they  had  not 
been  dug  up. 

The  weeds  growing  in  close  proximity  to  carrots  should  be 
pulled  up  when  the  ground  is  wet,  or  at  least  very  moist.     Foi 


62  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

when  the  sun  pours  down  the  scorching  heat,  a  slight  disturb- 
ance of  the  ground  near  the  growing  carrots  will  disturb  the 
roots,  and  the  burning  sun  will  wilt  them  as  soon  as  the  weeds 
that  have  been  pulled  up. 


CELERY. 

CELEEI.     Apium  graveolens. 

This  vegetable,  so  much  esteemed  as  a  salad,  is  known  in 
its  wild  state  by  the  name  of  Smallage ;  and  is  found  in  great 
abundance  by  the  sides  of  ditches,  and  near  the  sea-coast  of 
Britain.  The  effects  of  cultivation  are  here  strikingly  ex- 
hibited, in  producing  from  a  rank,  coarse  weed,  the  mild  and 
sweet  stalks  of  the  Celery.  This  circumstance  should  stimu- 
late the  young  gardener  to  aim  at  improvement  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  plants  in  general. 

It  is  customary  with  some  gardeners  to  raise  their  early 
plants  in  hotbeds ;  but  as  plants  thus  raised  are  apt  to  pro- 
duce seed-stalks,  it  is  much  safer  to  cultivate  them  in  cold 
beds,  prepared  as  directed  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage- 
plants.  The  seed  for  a  general  crop  may  be  sown  the  last 
week  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  rich,  mellow  ground,  and 
in  a  situation  where  the  plants  can  be  protected  from  the 
parching  keat  of  a  summer  sun  (a  border  against  a  north 
aspect  is  the  most  suitable).  Some  sow  the  seed  broadcast ; 
but  the  plants  will  be  much  stronger  if  raised  in  drills.  The 
drills  may  be  half  an  inch  deep,  and  six  inches  apart,  so  that 
a  small  hoe  can  be  worked  between  the  rows  ;  and  if  properly 
attended  to,  every  ounce  of  seed  sown  will  produce  ten  thou- 
sand strong  plants  or  more.  The  early  sown  plants  should  be 
pricked  out  in  a  nursery-bed  of  cool  rich  earth,  as  soon  as  they 
are  two  or  three  inches  high,  there  to  remain  about  a  month 
after  which  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  trenches. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  63 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  opon 
exposure.  Mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve 
inches  wide,  and  allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  them, 
which  will  be  sufficient  for  the  early  plantations.  Dig  each 
trench  a  spade  deep,  laying  the  earth  equally  on  each  side 
between  the  trenches.  Put  three  inches  deep  of  rotten  dung 
in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the  sides,  and  mingle 
the  manure  and  parings  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  loose 
mould  at  the  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  together,  and  put 
in  the  plants. 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  plants,  by  cutting  off  the  long 
straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  the  roots.  Let  them 
be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the  middle  of 
each  trench,  five  or  six  inches  between  plant  and  plant.  As 
soon  as  they  are  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful  watering,  and 
let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and  begin  to  grow. 
The  main  crops  may  be  planted  in  the  same  way,  but  in 
trenches  four  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  an  inch  or  two 
further  from  plant  to  plant ;  or  in  beds  made  in  the  following 
manner,  which,  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter, 
will  be  found  extremely  convenient,  besides  a  greater  quantity 
can  be  raised  on  a  given  piece  of  ground : 

Lay  out  the  ground  into  beds  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys 
between,  three  feet  in  width.  Dig  the  beds  a  spade  deep, 
throwing  earth  on  the  alleys.  When  done,  lay  four  or  five 
inches  of  well  rotted  dung  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds.  In- 
corporate it  with  the  loose  soil,  and  cover  the  whole  with  an 
inch  or  two  of  fcarth  from  the  alleys ;  plant  four  rows  in  each 
bed  at  equal  distances,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches  apart  in 
the  rows ;  after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful  watering,  and 
shade  them. 


BLANCHING    CELERY. 

The  earthing  should  never  be  done  when  the  plants  are 
wet,  as  this  is  apt  to  make  the  Celery  rusty ;  but  should  be 


64  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

performed  gradually  in  fine  weather  as  the  plants  progress  in 
growth,  repeating  the  earthing  every  two  weeks;  at  which 
time,  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  up  all  the  leaves  neatly, 
and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  When  they  are 
grown  two  feet  high,  and  well  blanched,  they  are  fit  for  the 
table. 

As  Celery  will  grow  three  or  four  feet  high  in  one  season, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  delay  the  planting  of  that  which  is  in- 
tended for  winter  use  until  the  latter  end  of  July;  but  the 
trenches  should  always  be  prepared  in  time,  to  avoid  a  serious 
drought,  which  often  delays  the  planting  till  too  late  in  the 
season.  The  blanching  of  Celery  for  winter  use  may  be  de- 
layed until  October. 

When  Celery  is  raised  on  a  large  scale,  the  trenches  may  be 
worked  out  with  a  plough,  and  finished  with  a  spade  or  hoe. 
The  ground  may  also  be  ploughed  between  the  rows  previous 
to  earthing  it  up,  which  will  save  much  labor. 

The  Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted,  may  be  planted  either  on  level 
ground  or  in  shallow  drills.  The  root  of  it  swells  like  a  Turnip, 
and  may  be  preserved  in  sand  through  the  winter.  The  French 
and  Germans  cut  it  in  slices,  and  soak  it  a  few  hours  in  vinegar. 
By  such  simple  preparation  it  becomes  mellow  as  a  pineapple, 
and  affords  a  delicious  and  very  nourishing  repast. 

Some  gardeners  are  accustomed  to  cultivate  Celery  on  the 
level  ground.  Others,  after  making  their  trenches  in  the  usual 
way,  go  to  the  expense  of  carting  peculiar  soil  from  a  distance, 
with  which  they  replenish  their  trenches  until  nearly  full. 
Those  who  have  pursued  the  latter  plan,  say  that  they  are  re- 
warded for  their  trouble  by  gathering  roots  of  superior  size 
and  quality.  Those  gardeners  whose  subsoil,  or  under  stratum, 
is  inferior,  or  ill-adapted  for  the  growth  of  Celery,  should 
cultivate  it  in  shallow  drills  or  furrows  worked  out  with  a 
plough,  by  which  means  they  may  secure  good  soil  to  plant 
in,  and  also  to  earth  up  with.  In  such  cases  the  rows  must  be 
from  four  to  five  feet  apart ;  and  frequent  ploughing  between 
them  would  promote  the  growth  of  the  plants. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  65 

Some  gardeners  prefer  to  raise  celery  on  level  ground,  and 
continue  to  form  a  ridge,  as  the  plants  grow,  by  drawing  clean 
earth  up  against  the  plants.  Others  set  a  four  or  five-inch 
drain  tile  over  each  plant ;  and  as  it  grows,  fine,  rich,  clean 
soil — mostly  sand — is  worked  down  in  the  tiles,  keeping  the 
plants  in  the  middle  of  the  orifice  in  the  tile.  Others  set  two 
planks  on  the  edge,  each  side  of  the  rows  of  celery,  and  fill 
up  between  the  planks  with  a  clean  loamy  soil. 


THE    BEST    WAY    OF    STORING    CELERY. 

Many  people  complain  of  their  Celery — one  of  the  most 
difficult  garden  crops  to  raise  in  perfection — that  it  does  not 
keep  well  through  the  winter ;  sometimes  withers,  but  oftener 
rots.  It  is  recommended  by  some  that  it  should  be  preserved 
in  the  rows  where  it  grows,  and  that  removal  more  or  less  injures 
it.  Where  the  plant  is  grown  in  a  soil  of  a  dry  nature — and 
Celery  never  should  be  grown  there — it  may  be  well  kept  in 
the  row ;  but  we  deny  most  emphatically  that  removal  injures 
it  in  the  slightest  particular. 

We  pursue  two  modes,  and  find  both  to  answer  completely. 
The  first  is  to  remove  the  Celery  to  high  and  dry  ground,  dig 
a  trench  spade-deep,  stand  up  a  row  of  plants,  then  three  inches 
of  soil,  then  another  row,  and  so  on  until  about  a  half-dozen 
rows  are  finished,  and  then  commence  another  bed,  and  so  on. 
The  soil  should  be  packed  firmly,  and  banked  up  so  that  the 
tops  of  the  Celery  are  just  covered ;  then  spank  off  roof-fashion, 
to  turn  the  rain.  Over  this  two  wide  boards,  nailed  together, 
should  be  placed  as  a  security  against  moisture.  For  remember 
it  is  water,  not  frost,  as  some  say,  that  rots  Celery.  Frost 
adds  to  its  tenderness. 

Another  plan  is  to  sink  barrels  into  the  earth,  so  that  the 
tops  are  two  or  three  inches  below  the  surface,  stand  them 
compactly  full  of  Celery,  put  close  or  tight  covers  upon  them, 
and  then  a  couple  of  inches  of  soil.  By  this  mode,  somewhat 
more  troublesome  than  the  other,  ours  kept  well  for  the  last 


66  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

two  or  three  years  until  all  was  consumed,  which  was  late  in 
spring. 


CORN  SALAD,  OR  FETTICUS. 
MACHE  ou  DOUCETTE.      Valeriana  locusta. 

VARIETY. —  Olitoria. 

This  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  cornfields  of  England  ; 
hence  it  is  called  Corn  Salad ;  and  from  its  being  sufficiently 
hardy  to  stand  the  winter,  and  affording  an  early  pasturage,  it 
has  acquired  the  appellation  of  Lamb's  Lettuce.  It  is  cultivat- 
ed as  a  salad  for  winter  and  early  spring  use.  The  seed  may 
be  sown  in  rich,  clean  ground  the  latter  end  of  August  or 
early  in  September. 

Some  gardeners  sow  the  seed  in  beds  four  or  five  feet  wide, 
with  paths  between  each  bed,  just  sufficient  to  admit  of  room 
for  hand-weeding ;  but  it  will  vegetate  more  freely  if  sown  in 
drills  half  an  inch  deep,  provided  it  be  carefully  covered.  The 
drills  may  be  about  six  inches  apart,  or  just  sufficient  to  admit 
a  small  hoe  to  work  between  the  rows;  for  if  the  plants  are 
not  cleared  of  all  weeds  while  young,  they  will  be  more  plague 
than  profit. 

Fetticus  must  be  covered  up  with  straw  at  the  approach  of 
severe  weather,  to  preserve  it  in  good  condition  for  use  in  the 
early  part  of  the  ensuing  spring,  as  that  is  the  season  which 
most  amply  remunerates  the  cultivator.  The  seed  of  Fetticus 
is  small  and  light ;  but  it  will  admit  of  being  sown  thick,  say 
at  the  rate  of  from  four  to  six  pounds  to  an  acre  of  land. 


CRESS. 

CRESSON.     Lepidium  sativum. 
Cress  is  a  small  salad-herb,  and  is  generally  used  with  Lettuce, 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  67 

White  Mustard,  Rape,  Chervil,  etc.  It  may  be  sown  very 
thick  in  little  drills,  like  salad-seed,  and  cut  before  it  comes 
into  rough  leaf.  A  small  quantity  in  the  salad  season,  which 
is  spring  and  autumn,  may  be  sown  every  week  in  rich  ground, 
free  from  weeds. 


CRESS  (Water). 
CRESSON  DE  FONTAINE.     Sisymbrium  nasturtium. 

The  Water-Cress  is  a  creeping,  amphibious  perennial,  and  is 
grown  very  extensively  for  the  London  markets.  Loudon 
says,  in  his  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening,  that  "  The  most  suit- 
able description  of  water  is  a  clear  stream,  not  more  than  an 
inch  and  a  half  deep,  running  over  sand  or  gravel ;  the  least 
favorable,  deep,  still  water,  or  a  muddy  bottom.  It  is  highly 
advantageous  to  make  the  plantations  in  newly-risen  spring- 
water,  as  the  plants  do  not  only  thrive  better  in  it,  but,  in 
consequence  of  its  being  rarely  frozen,  they  generally  continue 
in  vegetation,  and  in  a  good  state  of  gathering,  through  the 
whole  winter  season.  The  plants  are  disposed  in  rows  parallel 
with  the  course  of  the  stream,  about  eighteen  inches  apart. 
When  these  plants  begin  to  grow  in  water  one  inch  and  a  half 
deep,  they  soon  check  the  current  so  as  to  raise  the  water  to 
the  height  of  three  inches  above  the  plants,  which  is  consi- 
dered the  most  favorable  circumstance  in  which  they  can  be 
placed.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  have  a  constant  current; 
as  where  there  is  any  obstruction  to  the  stream,  the  plants 
cease  to  thrive.  After  they  have  been  cut  about  three  times 
they  begin  to  stock ;  and  then  the  oftener  they  are  cut  the 
better." 


CUCUMBER. 

CONCOMBRE.     Cucumis  sativus,  etc. 
The  Cucumis  sativus,  or  common  Cucumber,  is  a  native  of 


68  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  East  Indies,  and  of  nearly  as  great  antiquity  as  the  vine. 
As  Cucumbers  are  much  used  in  New  York,  it  should  be  a,n 
object  with  gardeners  to  have  them  in  the  market  early  ;  direc- 
tions for  raising  them  out  of  the  ordinary  season  are  there- 
fore given  in  a  future  page,  under  the  head  Forcing  Vegeta- 
bles, to  which  the  reader  is  referred.  Cucumbers  may  be 
raised  in  the  open  ground  by  planting  seed  the  first  week  of 
May,  in  hills  four  feet  apart ;  or,  if  the  ground  be  light,  basins 
formed  an  inch  below  the  level  of  the  surface  would  be  bene- 
ficial. Previous  to  planting,  the  ground  should  be  prepared 
by  incorporating  a  shovelful  of  rotten  dung  with  the  earth  in 
each  hill,  after  which  four  or  five  seeds  may  be  planted  half  an 
inch  deep.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  two  hun- 
dred hills  and  upwards. 

Cucumbers  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  yellow  fly,  which 
sometimes  devours  young  plants.  These  and  other  insects 
may  be  killed  by  sowing  tobacco-dust,  soot,  or  powdered 
charcoal  round  about  the  vines,  when  they  first  come  up,  or  by 
applying  the  liquid  recommended  in  page  29  of  the  General 
Remarks.  After  this  is  done,  the  plants  may  be  thinned  to 
two  or  three  in  a  hill,  and  the  ground  carefully  hoed,  drawing 
a  little  earth  round  them  at  the  same  time.  The  vines  should 
be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  the  weather  proves  dry,  a 
gentle  watering  now  and  then,  given  in  the  evening,  will  be  of 
considerable  service. 

Picklers  may  be  raised  by  planting  the  seed  at  any  time  in 
July.  When  the  vines  begin  to  bear,  they  should  be  looked 
over,  and  the  fruit  gathered  as  soon  as  it  becomes  fit,  as  the 
plant  will  cease  to  bear  much  if  the  fruit  be  permitted  to  get 
yeUow. 

RAISING    IN   HOTBEDS. 

The  seed  is  generally  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  of  light,  rich 
mould,  and  placed  in  a  hotbed ;  and  some  sow  the  seed  in  the 
earth  of  a  small  bed  prepared  for  the  purpose.  In  either  case, 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  69 

as  soon  as  the  plants  have  fully  expanded  their  twc  seed-leaves, 
they  may  be  transplanted  into  pots,  putting  three  plants  in 
each  pot ;  when  this  is  done,  apply  water  warmed  to  the  tem- 
perature of  the  bed,  and  shut  down  the  glasses,  keeping  them 
a  little  shaded  by  throwing  a  mat  over  the  glass,  till  the  plants 
have  taken  root.  When  they  are  about  a  month  old,  they 
will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  fruiting-bed. 

After  the  situation  of  the  bed  has  been  ascertained,  the 
heat  regulated,  and  the  earth  formed  into  hills,  raise  one  hill 
in  the  centre  under  each  sash,  so  that  the  earth  is  brought  to 
within  nine  inches  of  the  glass ;  in  these  hills  plant  three  seed- 
lings, or  turn  out  such  as  may  be  in  pots,  with  the  balls  of 
earth  about  their  roots,  and  thus  insert  one  patch  of  three 
plants  in  the  middle  of  each  hill.  The  plants  should  be  im- 
mediately watered  with  water  heated  to  the  temperature  of 
the  bed,  and  kept  shaded  until  they  have  taken  root. 

The  temperature  should  be  kept  up  to  60°,  and  may  rise 
to  80°  without  injury,  provided  the  rank  steam  be  allowed  to 
pass  off;  therefore,  as  the  heat  begins  to  decline,  timely  linings 
of  well-prepared  dung  must  be  applied  all  round  the  frame. 
Begin  by  lining  the  back  part  first ;  cut  away  the  old  dung 
perpendicularly  by  the  frame,  and  form  a  bank  two  feet  broad, 
to  the  height  of  a  foot,  against  the  back  of  the  frames;  as  it 
sinks,  add  more ;  renew  the  linings  round  the  remainder  of 
the  bed  as  it  becomes  necessary,  and  be  careful  to  let  off  the 
steam  and  give  air  to  the  plants  at  all  opportunities. 

Give  young  Cucumber  plants  necessary  waterings,  mostly  in 
the  evening,  in  early  forcing;  and  in  the  afternoon,  in  the 
advanced  season  of  hot,  sunny  weather.  Some  use  water 
impregnated  with  sheep  or  pigeon-dung.  As  the  roots  begin 
to  spread,  and  the  vines  to  run,  the  hills  should  be  enlarged 
by  gathering  up  the  earth  around  them,  for  which  purpose  a 
supply  of  good  mould  should  be  kept  ready  at  hand,  to  be 
used  as  required. 

When  the  plants  have  made  one  or  two  joints,  stop  them 
by  pinching  off  the  tops,  after  which  they  generally  put  forth 


70  KITCHEN- GARDENING. 

two  shoots,  each  of  which  let  run  till  they  have  made  one  or 
two  clear  joints,  and  then  stop  them  also;  and  afterwards 
continue  throughout  the  season  to  stop  them  at  every  joint; 
this  will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  promote  their  perfecting 
the  fruit  early. 

The  following  artificial  operation  is  recommended  by  Aber- 
crombie,  Phial,  and  other  writers,  as  essential  to  the  production 
of  a  full  crop  of  Cucumbers  under  glass.  In  plants  more  free- 
ly exposed  to  the  open  air,  the  impregnation  is  effected  -by 
nature.  Those  which  some  call  false  blossoms  are  the  male 
flowers,  and  are  indispensable  in  this  operation. 

"  The  Cucumber,"  Abercrombie  observes,  "  bears  male  and 
female  blossoms  distinctly  on  the  same  plant.  The  latter  only 
produce  the  fruit,  which  appears  first  in  miniature,  close  under 
the  base,  even  before  the  flower  expands.  There  is  never  any 
in  the  males ;  but  these  are  placed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fe- 
males, and  are  absolutely  necessary,  by  the  dispersion  of  their 
farina,  to  impregnate  the  female  blossom,  the  fruit  of  which 
will  not  otherwise  swell  to  its  full  size,  and  the  seed  will  be 
abortive.  The  early  plants  under  glass,  not  having  the  full 
current  of  natural  air,  nor  the  assistance  of  bees  and  other 
winged  insects  to  convey  the  farina,  the  artificial  aid  of  the 
cultivator  is  necessary  to  effect  the  impregnation.  At  the  time 
of  fructification  watch  the  plants  daily ;  and  as  soon  as  the 
female  flowers  and  some  male  blossoms  are  fully  expanded, 
proceed  to  set  the  fruit  the  same  day,  or  next  morning  at 
furthest.  Take  off  a  male  blossom,  detaching  it  with  part  of 
the  footstalk.  Hold  this  between  the  finger  and  thumb ;  pull 
away  the  flower-leaves  or  petals  close  to  the  stamens  or  cen- 
tral part,  which  apply  close  to  the  pistil  in  the  bosom  of  the 
female  flower,  twirling  it  a  little  about,  to  discharge  thereon 
some  particles  of  the  fertilizing  powder.  Proceed  thus  to  set 
every  fruit,  as  the  flowers  of  both  sorts  open,  while  of  a  lively, 
full  expansion ;  and  generally  perform  it  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day,  using  a  fresh  male,  if  possible,  for  every  impregnation, 
as  the  males  are  usually  more  abundant  than  the  female  bios- 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  71 

soms.  By  this  management,  the  young  fruit  will  soon  be 
observed  to  swell  freely." 

Cucumbers  attain  the  proper  size  for  gathering  in  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days  after  the  time  of  setting ;  and  often  in 
succession  for  two  or  three  months  or  more,  in  the  same  beds, 
by  good  culture. 

If  it  be  desired  to  have  Cucumbers  in  the  open  garden  at 
an  early  season,  the  plants  may  be  raised  and  planted  in  a 
warm  border  either  in  the  earth  or  in  hotbed  ridges.  A  hand- 
glass should  be  provided  for  each  hill,  which  must  be  kept 
close  down  every  night  and  in  cool  days,  taking  care  to  admit 
air  when  practicable.  The  plants  may  be  hardened  by  de- 
grees, by  taking  off  the  glass  in  the  heat  of  the  day ;  and  as 
the  weather  gets  warm,  they  may  be  left  to  nature. 


CHIVES,  OK  CIVES. 

CIVETTE.     Allium  schcenoprasum. 

This  is  a  small  species  of  Onion,  and  grows  in  large  turfs. 
It  is  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  roots,  and  may  be 
planted  either  in  spring  or  autumn  in  rows  ten  or  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  the  bulbs  three  or  four  inches  apart  in 
the  rows.  They  will  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast, 
forming  large  bunches  of  bulbs.  They  make  handsome  edging 
for  beds  or  borders. 


EGG-PLANT. 

MELONGENE  AU  AUBERGINE.     Solanum  melongena. 
The  seed  of  the  Purple  Egg-plant  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed about  the  first  of  March ;    and  the  sashes  must  be  kept 
down  close  until  the  plants  come  up,  after  which  a  little  air 


72  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

maybe  given  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  Towards  the  middle  of 
May,  if  the  weather  be  warm  and  settled,  the  plants  should 
be  set  out  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart,  in  a  rich, 
warm  piece  of  gronnd ;  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little  earth 
be  drawn  up  to  their  stems  when  about  a  foot  high,  they 
will  produce  plenty  of  fruit. 

Plants  of  the  white  variety  may  be  raised  in  the  same  man- 
ner and  transplanted  into  pots  in  May ;  or  if  some  of  the  seed  be 
sown  in  a  warm  situation  the  first  week  in  May,  these  may 
come  to  perfection  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  This  variety, 
though  generally  cultivated  for  ornament,  is  good  when  cooked. 

As  Egg-plants  will  not  grow  in  the  open  ground  until  settled 
warm  weather,  and  are  apt  to  perish  from  being  transplanted 
too  early,  the  gardener  should  be  provided  with  small  pots, 
in  order  that  the  plants  may  be  transplanted  therein  early 
in  May,  and  placed  in  a  frame,  there  to  remain  until  the 
first  week  in  June,  at  which  time,  if  they  are  turned  out 
and  planted  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  they  will  soon  take 
root  and  grow  freely. 

MANNER     OF     COOKING. 

Select  the  fruit  when  at  maturity ;  cut.  it  into  slices,  and 
parboil  it  in  a  stewpan ;  when  softened  drain  off  the  water; 
it  may  then  be  fried  in  batter  made  with  wheaten  flour  and 
an  egg,  or  in  fresh  butter  with  bread  grated  fine  and  seasoned 
before  it  is  put  in  the  pan,  with  pepper,  salt,  thyme,  and  such 
other  herbs  as  may  best  suit  the  palate.  Some  use  Marjoram, 
Summer  Savory,  Parsley,  Onions. 

Egg-plant  seed  will  not  vegetate  freely  without  substantial 
heat.  If  the  plants  get  the  least  chilled  in  the  earlier  stage 
of  growth,  they  seldom  recover.  It  is  therefore  important  that 
the  frame  allotted  for  them  be  placed  over  a  well-regulated  hot- 
bed, and  partitioned  off,  so  that  the  sash  can  be  kept  down  over 
the  plants  in  cool  weather. 

Some  gardeners  raise  Egg-plants  in  the  same  frame  with  Cab- 
bage, and  such  other  half-hardy  plants  as  require  air  every  mild 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  73 

day.  By  sucli  management,  one  or  the  other  must  suffer  for 
want  of  suitable  aliment,  heat  being  the  principal  food  of 
tender  plants,  and  air  that  of  the  more  hardy  species. 


ENDIVE,  OR  SUCCORY. 

CHICOREE  DES  JARDINS.     Cichorium  endiva,  etc. 

The  Chicorium  endiva  is  a  native  of  China  and  Japan,  and 
is  much  used  in  salads  and  stews,  and  as  a  garnish  for  the  table. 
The  proper  kind  of  seed  for  early  sowing  is  the  Green 
Curled.  A  small  quantity  of  this  may  be  sown  at  different 
times  in  April  and  May,  by  those  who  would  have  it  early. 
This  plant  is  apt  to  run  to  seed.  For  this  reason,  it  will  be 
best  to  delay  the  sowing  of  seed  for  general  crops  until 
June  or  July.  If  a  small  quantity  of  each  esteemed  variety 
be  sown  two  or  three  times  in  these  months,  they  will  produce 
a  plentiful  supply  for  use  in  autumn  and  the  early  part  of 
winter.  One  ounce  of  good  Endive-seed  will  produce  about 
five  thousand  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
should  be  transplanted  into  good  ground,  at  the  distance 
of  a  foot  from  each  other,  and  immediately  watered.  If  they 
are  set  out  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  it  will  save  this 
trouble.  The  plants  will  require  to  be  hoed  and  attended 
to  in  the  same  manner  as  lettuce,  until  grown  to  a  mode- 
rate size,  when  they  must  be  blanched.  Select  the  large 
and  full-hearted  plants,  and  with  bass  or  other  strings  tie 
them  a  little  above  the  middle,  not  too  tight,  previously 
gathering  up  the  leaves  regularly  in  the  hand.  This  must 
be  done  when  the  leaves  are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants 
will  rot.  Cichorium  intybus  grows  spontaneously  in  many 
parts  of  Europe  and  America.  In  France  it  is  much  cul- 
tivated ;  the  tops  of  the  plants  are  considered  profitable  for 
cattle,  and  the  roots  are  taken  up  in  autumn  and  dried. 

4 


74  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

The  aromatic  and  volatile  qualities  of  coffee  are,  by  the 
combination  of  this  root,  rendered  more  mellow  and  full 
upon  the  palate,  and  its  fragrance  greatly  increased,  producing 
an  agreeable  tonic  and  most  exhilarating  beverage. 

Sow  the  seed  in  April  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and 
about  eighteen  inches  apart ;  thin  out  the  plants  to  six  or  eight 
inches  in  the  row.  The  plant  produces  beautiful  blue  flowers, 
and  is  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  flower-garden.  The  roots  when 
dried,  roasted  as  coffee,  and  ground,  may  be  mixed  in  the 
proportion  of  two  ounces  of  the  powder  to  a  pound  of  coffee. 


HORSERADISH. 

RAIFOET.     Cochearia  armoracia. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  root,  either 
cut  from  the  top  about  two  inches  long,  or  by  offsets,  or 
otherwise  useless  parts,  from  the  sides  of  the  main  root,  retain- 
ing the  crowns  or  top-shoots  in  as  many  parts  as  possible.  These 
should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  practicable,  in  rows 
two  feet  apart  and  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other  in  the 
rows. 

Select  for  the  bed  a  good  depth  of  soil,  and  such  as  will  retain 
moisture ;  manure  it  with  well-rotted  dung,  plough  or  dig  it 
deep,  and  the  draw-drills  afoot  apart ;  then  plant  with  a  dibble, 
cuttings  as  above  described,  in  every  alternate  drill,  from  two 
to  three  inches  deep.  The  intermediate  drills  may  be  planted 
with  Beet  or  Carrot-seed,  or  that  of  any  other  root ;  but  Turnip- 
Beets  are  the  most  suitable  to  cultivate  between  the  rows,  as 
they  will  grow  quick  and  can  be  pulled  out  without  disturbing 
the  Horseradish. 

The  beets  must  of  course  be  thinned  out  while  young,  and 
kept  cultivated  by  hoeing  between  the  rows,  which  will  also 
benefit  the  Horseradish.  After  the  Beets  are  pulled,  hoe  the 
ground  again,  and  keep  ft  clear  of  weeds,  by  which  method  the 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  75 

bed  may  be  cleared  every  year.  Some  cultivate  Horseradish  in 
a  permanent  bed ;  in  which  case,  if,  in  taking  up  the  roots,  some 
offsets  be  left  in  the  ground,  they  will  produce  a  successive 
supply  for  future  years. 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

POMME  DE  TERRE.  HeliantTius  tuberosum. 
This  plant  is  a  native  of  America.  The  tubers  of  the 
root,  which  are  generally  abundant,  were,  before  Potatoes 
became  improved  by  cultivation,  in  great  esteem,  and  are 
yet  considered  a  fine-flavored  and  nutritious  food,  when 
boiled  and  mashed  with  butter.  They  may  be  easily  propa- 
gated by  cutting  the  roots  into  sets,  with  two  eyes  in  each,  and 
planting  them  in  the  same  manner  as  Potatoes,  in  March 
and  April.  To  have  them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed 
frequently,  and  the  ground  kept  loose  around  them.  In  dig- 
ging them  for  use,  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  them  out 
clean,  as  the  least  particle  left  will  grow  the  year  following,  and 
encumber  the  ground,  without  producing  a  crop  worth  raising. 

INDIAN  CORN.     MAIS.     Zea  mayz. 

The  different  varieties  of  early  Corn  intended  for  boiling 
when  young,  or  others  as  curiosities,  may  be  planted  in  the 
garden  the  last  week  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in  hills  four 
feet  apart,  or  in  drills.  If  some  of  each  esteemed  variety  be 
planted  in  separate  beds  at  the  same  time,  they  will  come  in 
for  the  table  one  after  the  other  in  regular  succession.  After 
this,  if  any  particular  variety  be  preferred,  it  may  be  planted 
at  different  times  in  the  month  of  May  and  June.  If  the 
ground  be  poor,  mix  a  shovelful  of  old  manure  with  the  earth 
in  each  hill  before  the  kernels  are  planted,  and  after  the  plants 
are  up  strong,  scatter  a  teacupful  of  wood-ashes  around  each 


6  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

hill.  This,  with  attentive  hoeing,  will  cause  it  to  produce  ears 
early.  Deep  digging  or  ploughing  between  the  hills  is  very 
beneficial  when  the  corn  is  about  eighteen  inches  high. 

There  is  danger  of  planting  Indian  Corn  too  early,  as  the 
kernels  will  rot  before  they  germinate,  when  the  ground  is  wet 
and  cold.  Then,  if  the  weather  be  so  cold  after  the  corn  has 
come  up,  that  it  cannot  grow,  the  young  plants  receive  a  stunt 
from  which  they  never  recover.  The  locality  must  always  be 
the  guide  respecting^the  time  to  plant  Indian  Corn. 

My  advice  has  always  been  to  young  gardeners,  not  to  plant 
Indian  Corn  too  early.  Wait  till  the  soil  is  warm,  and  the 
growing  season  well  advanced,  before  planting  any  kind  of 
corn.  Work  at  the  ground  where  Indian  Corn  is  to  be 
planted ;  and  get  it  in  an  excellent  condition,  thoroughly  pul- 
verized, drained,  if  necessary,  and  manured  bountifully;  then 
when  all  the  trees  are  in  full-leaf,  and  apple-trees  begin  to  cast 
their  blossoms,  put  in  the  seed,  and  the  young  corn  will  often 
appear  in  five  days.  I  have  known  corn  planted  dry,  in  my 
own  garden,  to  come  up  in  four  days,  when  the  soil  was  warm ; 
and  I  have  often  waited  over  two  weeks  for  good  seed  to  vege- 
tate ;  and  even  after  so  long  a  time,  the  blades  did  not  appear. 
Indian  Corn  must  have  dry  and  rich  ground,  and  warm 
weather,  or  it  will  not  produce  large  ears. 

In  order  to  have  a  succession  of  "  roasting  ears,"  or  green 
corn,  my  practice  is  to  prepare  the  ground  for  several  rows, 
side  by  side.  Then  two  weeks  after  the  first  row  was  planted, 
put  in  the  seed  for  another  row,  and  so  to  the  middle  of  sum- 
mer. In  this  way,  one  may  have  green  corn  for  a  long  time. 

Indian  Corn  will  mix  when  different  varieties  are  planted  in 
such  close  proximity  that  the  pollen  from  the  tassels  will  be 
carried  to  the  silken  cords,  one  of  which  proceeds  from  the 
root  of  every  kernel  to  the  end  of  the  growing  ear.  If  varie- 
ties are  permitted  to  mix,  they  soon  lose  their  identity.  The 
product  may  be  quite  as  good,  and  perhaps  better,  than  the 
variety  planted  ;  and  it  may  not  be  so  excellent. 

To  prevent  any  and  all  varieties  from  hybridizing,  cut  off 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  77 

every  tassel  as  soon  as  it  appears.  This  will  not  injure  the 
growing  corn  in  the  least ;  and  it  will  always  be  found  a  com- 
plete security  against  mixing  of  the  seed,  even  when  varieties 
widely  different  are  grown  in  rows  side  by  side.  But  the 
tassels  must  be  clipped  off  before  they  have  pushed  entirely 
out  of  the  sheath,  or  a  portion  of  the  pollen  may  be  blown  to 
the  ears,  and  thus  impregnate  the  young  grain.  A  piece  of 
paper  tied  over  each  ear,  will  shield  it  from  the  pollen.  I 
allude  to  this  subject,  as  it  is  desirable  to  know  how  to  keep  a 
good  variety  pure  for  several  years. 

MAIZE   FOR   SOILING,  OR   FOR   DRY   FODDER. 

One  acre  well  prepared  by  thorough  pulverization  and 
manuring  and  seeded  with  maize,  will  almost  always  yield 
three  times  as  much  feed  for  soiling  stock  of  any  kind,  as  can 
be  produced  from  any  other  kind  of  grain  or  grass.  Growing 
Maize  or  Indian-corn  feeds  largely  on  coarse  manure,  which 
other  plants  do  not  appropriate  to  their  growth  and  develop- 
ment. For  this  reason,  the  ground  can  be,  and  always  should 
be,  highly  manured.  If  a  farmer  apprehends  a  scarcity  of  pas- 
ture, he  should  make  preparations  at  once  for  putting  in  one 
or  more  acres,  for  feeding-green,  next  August,  or  in  September, 
when  pasture  fields  are  often  as  dry  and  parched  as  a  barren 
desert.  Should  such  feed  not  be  required  while  green,  the 
stalks  and  leaves,  if  properly  cured,  will  make  excellent  dry 
fodder.  Moreover  if  a  crop  of  Maize  is  not  wanted  for  green 
or  dry  feed,  it  may  be  ploughed  under,  to  ameliorate  the  stub- 
born condition  of  a  heavy  and  lumpy  soil.  Four  bushels  of 
Indian-corn  per  acre  will  furnish  more  than  three  times  the 
amount  of  vegetable  matter  for  fertilizing  a  poor  soil,  than  a 
crop  of  red  clover,  peas,  or  any  other  material  that  farmers  are 
accustomed  to  raise  for  such  purposes.  When  heavy  soils  are 
destitute,  in  a  great  degree,  of  fine  mould,  which  is  always 
eminently  essential  to  the  production  of  bountiful  crops  of 
grain  and  roots,  the  ground  will  be  extremely  lumpy  and 


78  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

difficult  to  till;  and  should  there  be  an  excess  of  moisture  in 
the  soil,  in  warm  weather,  the  ground  will  bake,  and  thus  pre- 
vent crops  of  any  kind  attaining  that  great  development  which 
is  obtained  when  the  soil  is  dry,  and  well  supplied  with  vegeta- 
ble mould.  When  red  clover  or  peas  are  plowed  under  for 
the  purpose  of  renovating  the  soil,  if  Indian-corn  be  put  in  as 
soon  as  practicable  after  the  ground  is  ploughed,  a  heavy  burden 
of  stalks  will  grow  before  frosts  occur  to  injure  their  growth, 
which  also  may  be  ploughed  in,  and  thus  furnish  the  barren  land 
with  two  dressings  of  green  manure  in  a  single  season. 


Planted  in  hills.    Sowed  thick  broadcast.      Sowed  thin  broadcast. 
PREPARATION    OF    SOIL    AND    SEEDING. 

The  accompanying  illustration  will  furnish  the  beginner  in 
this  branch  of  agriculture  with  some  correct  notions  concern- 
ing the  growth  of  Maize.  The  plants  at  the  left  hand  repre- 
sent a  hill  of  Indian-corn,  where  the  stalks  grow  tall,  large,  and 
heavy,  having  large  butts  and  joints,  which  cattle  will  not  eat, 
unless  they  are  well  cured  and  cut  into  short  pieces.  The 
middle  figure  represents  Maize  as  it  appears  when  the  grain 
is  sowed  thick.  The  stalks  are  small  and  much  more  tender 
than  when  the  seed  is  sowed  thin.  The  figure  at  the  right  hand 
represents  the  appearance  of  Maize  that  was  sowed  moderately 
thick. 

In  order  to  produce  a  bountiful  crop  of  Maize,  plow  under  a 
liberal  dressing  of  barn-yard  manure,  always  remembering  to 
break  up  the  ground  when  it  is  just  moist  enough  to  crumble 
easily.  Heavy  ground  should  not  be  broken  up  when  the 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  79 

furrow  slices  will  turn  over  in  clods.  Let  tlie  ground  be  har- 
rowed ;  and  if  a  grain  drill  is  at  hand,  drill  in  the  seed,  about 
three  inches  deep,  at  the  rate  of  four  bushels  per  acre.  A  drill 
is  better  for  putting  in  such  grain  than  to  sow  it  broadcast,  and 
harrow  it  in,  as  a  drill  will  bury  all  the  kernels  at  a  uniform 
depth,  whereas  much  of  the  seed  will  not  be  covered  at  all  if 
harrowed  in ;  and  a  large  portion  will  often  be  covered  sc 
slightly  that  the  young  plants  cannot  flourish  luxuriantly. 

Some  farmers  prefer  to  put  in  the  seed  with  a  corn  planter, 
in  drills  about  thirty  inches  apart,  which  will  allow  a  horse-hoe 
to  work  between  the  drills.  Others  mark  out  the  ground  with 
a  small  plough,  making  channels  three  inches  deep,  about  thirty 
inches  apart,  into  which  the  grain  is  dropped,  or  scattered  by 
hand.  The  seed  is  then  covered  by  hitching  a  horse  to  a  small 
log,  five  or  six  feet  long,  and  drawing  it  sideways  over  two 
rows  at  once.  This  is  a  rapid  and  efficient  way  to  cover  the 
seed  when  a  person  has  no  drill. 

The  tall  white  flint,  or  eight-rowed  yellow  corn,  in  our  lati- 
tude, is  the  best  variety  for  producing  green  fodder,  whether  the 
crop  is  to  be  fed  green,  or  cured,  or  ploughed  under.  On  many 
farms  there  are  several  acres  covered  with  nothing  but  noxious 
weeds,  which  may  every  season  be  made  to  yield  an  abundant 
crop  of  excellent  feed,  if  properly  managed. 

HOW    TO    CURE    THE    STALKS. 

As  soon  as  the  Maize  is  in  full  bloom,  let  it  be  cut,  bound  in 
small  sheaves,  and  set  up  in  long  shocks  in  dry  weather.  Dur- 
ing protracted  storms,  the  sheaves  should  be  put  in  round 
shocks,  and  the  tops  bound  tightly  to  turn  as  much  of  the  rain 
as  possible.  If  a  person  have  hay-caps,  one  may  be  put  on 
every  shock,  and  thus  keep  the  stalks  dry.  In  pleasant  weather, 
the  caps  should  be  removed.  When  a  person  has  an  abundance 
of  barn-room,  the  sheaves  may  be  set  up  on  open  floors,  or 
poles  placed  on  the  beams  of  the  building,  so  that  the  air  may 
circulate  through  the  stalks.  A  ton  of  Maize,  well  cured,  will 
produce  more  rich  milk  than  a  ton  of  good  hay. 


80 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


Narragansett  Corn.        New  Jersey  White, 


DESCRIPTION    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Figure  1  represents  an  ear  of  Narragansett  Corn,  which  was 
originated  near  the  Narragansett  Bay,  Rhode  Island,  and  is 
highly  esteemed  by  many  gardeners. 

Figure  2  is  the  New  Jersey  White,  |-  dent,  which  is  an  ex- 
cellent variety,  yielding  bountifully  in  most  localities.  All  the 
varieties  illustrated  in  this  book,  and  many  other  kinds,  can  be 
obtained  at  most  seed  stores  in  our  large  cities. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


81 


Figure  3  represents  the  Rhode  Island  Asylum  Corn. 

Figure  4  is  the  Tuscarora  Corn,  which  was  originated  by  the 
tribe  of  Tuscarora  Indians,  in  Niagara  county,  N.  Y.  It  needs 
improving  by  selecting  the  earliest  ripened  ears  for  a  few  years. 


Ehode  Island  Asylum  Corn.         Tuscarora  Cora. 

Figure  5  is  the  Ohio  Dent  Corn,  which  will  yield  more 
bushels  per  acre,  in  certain  States,  than  can  be  produced  by 
planting  any  other  variety. 

Figure  6  represents  the  King  Philip  Corn,  which  is  an  8-rowed 

4* 


82 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


variety,  having  large  kernels,  long  ears,  and  small  cobs.  It  is 
an  excellent  kind  of  corn  for  most  localities,  although  in  some 
States  it  does  not  succeed  satisfactorily.  The  Improved  King 
Philip  is  considered  a  superior  variety,  not  only  for  market  but 
for  meal  for  home  consumption 

Figure  T  represents  a  variety  highly  esteemed,  known  as  the 
Rhode  Island  Premium  Corn.  The  varieties  of  Indian-corn 
are  almost  without  number.  Some  are  not  worthy  of  cultiva- 


OLio  Dent  Corn.  King  Philip  Corn.    Lhode  Island  Premium  Corn. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  83 

lion,  while  others  succeed  most  satisfactorily  wherever  the  soil 
will  produce  a  large  crop  of  any  kind  of  corn. 


METHOD  OF  CULTIVATING  THE  HOP. 
HOUBLON.     Humulus  lupulus. 

Although  the  Hop  is  not  a  culinary  vegetable,  yet,  as  it  is 
more  or  less  used  in  every  part  of  our  country,  it  may  not  be 
amiss  to  treat  of  its  culture.  As  a  great  deal  depends  on  the 
manner  in  which  Hops  are  cured,  I  propose  giving  directions 
for  their  management  throughout,  so  as  to  enable  those  who 
choose,  to  prepare  their  own.  My  information  is  collected 
chiefly  from  London's  Encyclopaedia  of  Plants. 

"  The  Hop  has  been  cultivated  in  Europe  an  unknown  length 
of  time  for  its  flowers,  which  are  used  for  preserving  beer.  Its 
culture  was  introduced  from  Flanders  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  Eighth ;  though  indigenous  both  in  Scotland  and  Ireland, 
it  is  little  cultivated  in  those  countries,  owing  to  the  humidity 
of  their  autumnal  season.  Like  other  plants  of  this  sort,  the 
Hop  bears  its  flowers  on  different  individuals ;  therefore,  the 
female  plants  alone  are  cultivated." 

NAMES    OF   DIFFERENT    VARIETIES. 

"There  are  several  varieties  grown  in  Kent  and  Surrey,  under 
the  name  of  Flemish,  Canterbury,  Goldings,  etc. ;  the  first  is 
the  most  hardy,  differing  little  from  the  Wild  or  Hedge  Hop ; 
the  Golding  is  an  improved  and  highly  productive  variety,  but 
more  subject  to  blight  than  the  other.  Besides  these  are  the 
Farnham,  or  Golden  Grape,  which  is  cultivated  for  an  early 
crop ;  and  for  late  picking,  the  Mayfield  Grape,  or  Ruffler,  is 
esteemed,  which  is  a  dwarfish  variety.  Great  caution  is  neces- 
sary lest  the  varieties  get  mixed,  as  they  will  not  ripen  nor  dry 
equally,  and  consequently  cannot  be  of  one  uniform  color  and 
quality.  In  the  Hop-growing  districts  of  the  State  of  New 


84  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

York,  where  Hops  constitute  the  principal  crop  of  the  farm, 
the  Pompey  Hop,  Grape  Hop,  and  English  Cluster  are  most 
productive.  Still,  the  Pompey  Hop,  it  is  said,  is  more  liable 
to  be  injured  by  rust  and  insects  than  the  other  varieties. 

PREPARATION    OF    SOIL    AND    PLANTING. 

"  The  Hop  prefers  a  deep  loamy  soil  on  a  dry  bottom ;  a 
sheltered  situation,  but  at  the  same  time  not  so  confined  as  to 
prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  soil  requires  to  be  well 
pulverized  and  manured  previous  to  planting.  In  Hop  dis- 
tricts, the  ground  is  generally  trenched  either  with  a  spade  or 
subsoil  plough ;  and  if  the  ground  is  at  all  wet  it  must  be 
thoroughly  under-drained,  as  Hops  will  not  grow  luxuriantly 
and  produce  abundantly  when  there  is  an  excess  of  water  in 
the  soil.  The  ground  requires  as  thorough  preparation  for 
Hops  as  for  a  crop  of  wheat  or  roots. 

"  The  ground  is  marked  out  with  a  plough,  making  drills 
three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  six  to  nine  feet  apart.  Some 
experienced  Hop-growers  say  the  rows  should  never  be  nearer 
than  nine  feet  in  rows  both  ways.  By  some,  five,  six,  or  seven 
plants,  are  placed  in  a  circular  form,  which  circles  are  distant 
five  or  six  feet  from  each  other. 

"  The  sets  or  cuttings  are  procured  from  the  most  healthy 
of  the  old  stools  ;  each  should  have  two  joints  or  buds.  From 
the  one  which  is  placed  in  the  ground  the  root  springs  ;  and 
from  the  other,  the  stalk.  Some  plant  the  cuttings  at  once, 
covering  them  with  mellow  soil  about  two  inches  deep,  where 
they  are  to  remain ;  and  by  others  they  are  nursed  a  year  in 
a  garden.  An  interval  crop  of  Beans  or  Cabbage  is  generally 
taken  the  first  year.  Sometimes  no  poles  are  placed  at  the 
plants  till  the  second  year,  and  then  only  short  ones  of  six  or 
seven  feet.  The  third  year  the  Hop  generally  comes  into  full 
bearing,  and  then  from  four  to  six  poles,  from  fourteen  to  six- 
teen feet  in  length,  are  placed  to  each  circle :  or  one  pole  to 
each  plant,  if  cultivated  in  straight  rows.  The  plan  adopted 
for  the  most  part  at  the  present  time,  is  to  set  stakes  about 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  85 

eight  feet  high  at  every  hill,  and  attach  tarred  twine  to  the 
tops  all  over  the  field.  This  is  called  horizontal  cultivation. 
The  stakes  should  be  about  one  and  a  half  inches  square,  of 
durable  timber,  and  the  whole  stake  dipped  in  a  trough  of  coal- 
tar,  to  prevent  decay  and  repel  insects. 

CULTIVATION    AND    TRAINING. 

"  The  after-culture  of  the  Hop  consists  in  stirring  the  soil, 
and  keeping  it  free  from  weeds ;  in  guiding  the  shoots  to  the 
poles,  and  sometimes  tying  them  for  that  purpose  with  bass 
or  withered  rushes ;  in  eradicating  superfluous  shoots  which 
may  rise  from  the  root,  and  in  raising  a  small  heap  of  earth 
over  the  root  to  nourish  the  plant ;  although,  if  the  ground  be 
not  excessively  wet,  it  is  better  to  hill  but  little.  Rows  of 
Beans  may  be  planted  between  the  rows  of  Hops,  without 
injury  to  the  crop  of  Hops.  Grass  and  weeds  must  be  kept 
subdued  by  the  repeated  use  of  the  horse-hoe  and  hand-hoes, 
through  the  entire  growing  season. 

"  Some  persons  cultivate  only  a  few  hills  of  Hops  for  the 
use  of  their  own  families ;  and  the  hills  are  planted  near  the 
dwelling,  and  the  vines  trained  on  cords  over  the  window. 
Sometimes  the  vines  are  allowed  to  run  thirty  feet  high.  This 
is  objectionable,  as  such  a  great  length  of  vine  is  produced  at 
the  expense  of  the  crop  of  Hops.  After  the  vines  have 
attained  a  certain  height,  if  there  is  no  support  they  will  soon 
cease  to  run  ;  and  the  energies  of  the  plants  will  be  employed 
in  producing  Hops. 

"  As  the  Hop  is  a  staminate  or  male,  and  pistillate  or  female 
plant,  if  the  vines  be  unproductive,  some  of  the  barren  hills 
should  be  dug  up,  and  others  that  will  bear  well  set  in  their 
places.  In  field  cultivation,  the  most  successful  growers  of 
Hops  plant  about  every  ninth  hill  with  sets  from  a  staminate 
or  male  stalk.  By  this  means  all  the  vines  will  be  fertilized 
and  rendered  productive. 

"  A  person  should  pass  through  the  field  every  few  days, 
and  aid  the  vines  in  twining  to  their  supports.  It  is  a  striking 


86  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

characteristic  of  the  Hop,  as  well  as  of  beans,  that  the  climb- 
ers always  ascend  in  one  direction.  Hops  run  from  right  to 
left,  and  beans  in  the  opposite  direction.  And  if  the  runners 
be  put  around  the  pole  in  an  opposite  direction,  and  secured 
there,  the  ends  will  turn  about  as  soon  as  they  are  free,  and  go 
up  the  pole,  or  twine  the  other  way.  Hop-vines  turn  around 
a  pole  in  the  same  direction  that  the  sun  appears  to  revolve 
around  the  earth. 

WHEN    AND    HOW    TO    PICK. 

"  Hops  are  known  to  be  ready  for  gathering  when  the  chaffy 
capsules  acquire  a  brown  color,  and  a  firm  consistence.  Each 
chaffy  capsule,  or  leaf  calyx,  contains  one  seed.  Before  these 
are  picked,  the  stalks  are  detached,  and  the  poles  pulled  up, 
and  placed  horizontally  on  frames  of  wood,  two  or  three  poles 
at  a  time.  The  hops  are  then  picked  off  by  women  and 
children.  After  being  carefully  separated  from  the  leaves  and 
stalks,  they  are  dropped  into  a  large  cloth  hung  all  around 
within  the  frame  on  tenter-hooks.  When  the  cloth  is  full,  the 
Hops  are  emptied  into  a  large  sack,  which  is  carried  home, 
and  the  Hops  laid  on  a  kiln  to  be  dried.  This  is  always  to  be 
done  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  picked,  or  they  are  apt 
to  sustain  considerable  damage,  both  in  color  and  flavor,  if  al- 
lowed to  remain  long  in  the  green  state  in  which  they  are 
picked.  In  very  warm  weather,  and  when  they  are  picked  in 
a  moist  state,  they  will  often  heat  in  five  or  six  hours.  For 
this  reason,  the  kilns  are  kept  constantly  at  work,  both  night 
and  day,  from  the  commencement  to  the  conclusion  of  the 
Hop-picking  season. 

"  Some  Hop-growers,  however,  prefer  large  boxes  made  of 
thin  boards  for  receiving  the  Hops  as  they  are  picked.  These 
boxes  have  handles  screwed  to  their  sides,  so  that  two  persons 
may  handle  a  boxful  conveniently." 

MANNER    OF   DRYING    HOPS. 

"The  operation  of  drying  Hops  is  not  materially  different 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  87 

from  that  of  drying  malt ;  and  the  kilns  are  of  the  same  con- 
struction. The  hops  are  spread  on  a  hair  cloth,  from  eight  to 
twelve  inches  deep,  according  as  the  season  is  dry  or  wet,  or 
the  Hops  ripe  or  immature.  When  the  ends  of  the  Hop-stalks 
become  quite  shrivelled  and  dry,  they  are  taken  off  the  kiln, 
and  laid  on  a  board  floor  till  they  become  quite  cool,  when 
they  are  put  into  bags.  When  only  a  small  quantity  is  raised, 
they  can  be  spread  on  a  clean  floor  a  few  inches  deep,  and 
stirred  every  day  till  they  are  quite  dry,  after  which  they  should 
be  stored  in  sacks  made  of  coarse  cloth." 


MANNER    OF    BAGGING. 

"  The  bagging  of  Hops  is  thus  performed.  In  the  floor  of 
the  room  where  Hops  are  laid  to  cool,  there  is  a  round  hole  or 
trap,  equal  in  size  to  the  mouth  of  a  Hop-bag.  After  tying  a 
handful  of  Hops  in  each  of  the  lower  corners  of  a  large  bag, 
which  serve  for  handles,  the  mouth  of  the  bag  is  fixed  se- 
curely to  a  strong  hoop,  which  is  made  to  rest  on  the  edge  of 
the  hole  or  trap ;  and  the  bag  itself  being  then  dropped 
through  the  hole,  a  packer  goes  into  it,  when  a  person  who  at- 
tends for  the  purpose,  puts  in  the  Hops  in  small  quantities,  in 
order  to  give  the  packer  an  opportunity  of  packing  and  tram- 
pling them  as  hard  as  possible.  When  the  bag  is  filled,  and  the 
Hops  trampled  in  so  hard  that  it  will  hold  no  more,  it  is  drawn 
up,  loosened  from  the  hoop,  and  the  end  sewed  up,  two  other 
handles  having  been  previously  formed  in  the  corners  in  the 
manner  mentioned  above.  The  brightest  and  finest-colored 
Hops  are  put  into  fine  bagging,  and  the  brown  into  coarse  or 
heavy  bagging.  The  former  are  chiefly  used  for  brewing  fine 
ale,  and  the  latter  by  the  porter  brewers.  But  when  Hops  are 
intended  to  be  kept  two  or  three  years,  they  are  put  into 
bags  of  strong  cloth,  and  firmly  pressed  with  a  screw  so  as  to 
exclude  the  air."  Hops  are  also  pressed  into  small  packages, 
in  paper  bags,  weighing  half  a  pound  and  upwards,  to  suit  the 
wants  of  small  families. 


88  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

YIELD    PER   ACRE. 

"  The  produce  of  no  crop  is  so  liable  to  variation  as  that  of 
the  Hop.  In  good  seasons  an  acre  will  produce  20  cwt.,  but 
from  10  to  12  cwt.  is  considered  a  tolerable  average  crop.  The 
quality  of  Hops  is  estimated  by  the  abundance  or  scarcity  of 
an  unctuous  clammy  powder  which  adheres  to  them,  and  by 
their  bright-yellow  color.  The  expenses  of  forming  a  Hop 
plantation  are  considerable ;  but  once  in  bearing,  it  will  con- 
tinue so  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  before  it  requires  to  be  renewed. 
The  Hop  is  peculiarly  liable  to  diseases ;  when  young  it  is 
devoured  by  fleas  of  different  kinds ;  at  a  more  advanced  stage, 
it  is  attacked  by  the  green  fly,  red  spider,  and  ottermoth,  the 
larvae  of  which  prey  even  upon  their  roots.  The  honey-dew 
often  materially  injures  the  Hop  crop ;  and  the  mould,  the  fire- 
blast,  and  other  blights,  injure  it  at  different  times  towards  the 
latter  period  of  the  growth  of  the  plant." 

The  Hop  is  considered  somewhat  precarious  ;  but  when  the 
season  is  good,  the  profit  is  very  great.  The  average  product 
may  be  stated  at  700  Ibs.,  though  it  has  reached  1600  Ibs.  to 
the  acre ;  and  in  the  latter  case  the  expenses  amounted  to 
sixty  dollars.  The  ordinary,  or  average  price,  may  be  stated 
at  eighteen  cents  per  pound.  The  profits  on  an  ordinary  crop, 
according  to  these  assumed  data,  would  be  about  seventy  dol- 
lars to  the  acre.  It  often  falls  materially  short  of  this,  how- 
ever, from  the  want  of  knowledge  and  care  in  gathering  and 
drying  the  crop. 

MEDICINAL    PROPERTIES. 

The  young  shoots  of  both  wild  and  cultivated  Hops  are  con- 
sidered by  some  as  very  wholesome,  and  are  frequently  gather- 
ed in  the  spring,  boiled,  and  eaten  as  Asparagus.  The  stalks 
and  leaves  will  dye  wool  yellow.  From  the  stalk  a  strong 
cloth  is  made  in  Sweden ;  and  the  mode  of  preparing  it  is 
described  by  Linnaeus  in  his  Flora  Suecica.  A  decoction  of 
the  roots  is  said  to  be  as  good  a  sudorific  as  Sarsaparilla ;  and 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  89 

the  smell  of  the  flowers  is  soporific.  A  pillow  filled  with  Hop 
flowers  will  induce  sleep,  unattended  with  the  bad  effects  of 
soporifics  which  require  to  be  taken  internally. 

STACKING    THE    POLES. 

"The  stripping  and  stacking  of  the  poles  succeed  to  the 
operation  of  picking.  The  shoot  or  bind  being  stripped  off, 
such  poles  as  are  not  decayed,  are  set  up  together  in  a  conical 
pile  of  three  or  four  hundred,  the  centre  of  which  is  formed 
by  three  stout  poles  bound  together  a  few  feet  from  their  tops, 
and  their  lower  ends  spread  out.  A  flat  stone,  or  piece  of 
board,  should  be  placed  under  every  pole  to  keep  the  moisture 
from  rising  in  the  wood,  which,  if  not  prevented,  will  hasten 
the  decay  of  the  poles  about  as  fast  as  if  they  were  in  the 
ground.  Those  who  propose  to  raise  Hops  on  a  large  scale, 
should  visit  some  of  the  Hop-growing  districts  in  the  northern 
counties  of  New  York,  or  other  States,  and  examine  the  modes 
of  culture  and  kilns  for  drying. 


LEEK.     POIRREAU.     Allium  porrum. 

VARIETIES. 

Scotch,  or  Flag.  |  Large  London. 

This  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  herb,  and  is  so  hardy  as  to 
endure  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  without  injury.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  a  bed  of  rich 
earth,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and  a  sufficient  distance 
apart  to  admit  of  a  small  hoe  being  worked  between  the  rows, 
allowing  one  ounce  of  seed  for  every  three  thousand  plants  that 
may  be  required. 

If  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  around  the  plants, 
they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  in  June,  or  early  in  July,  and 
should  be  set  out  in  good  ground,  in  rows  twelve  inches  asun- 
der, and  the  plants  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  They 


90  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

will  grow  well  in  a  warm  border,  which  at  this  season  is  use- 
less for  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  After  the  plants  have  taken 
root,  they  should  be  frequently  hoed,  and  kept  free  from 
weeds. 

Those  who  wish  to  have  Leeks  blanched,  may  plant  them 
in  trenches  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  as  the  plants  in- 
crease in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  drawn  by  a  hoe  into  the 
trenches. 


LETTUCE. 

LAITUE.     Lactuca  sativa  crispa. 

It  would  be  easy  to  furnish  a  more  extensive  catalogue  of 
Lettuce,  as  the  varieties  are  numerous ;  but  as  this  is  one  of 
those  kinds  of  vegetables  that  can  only  be  raised  in  perfection 
during  mild  and  temperate  weather,  it  is  needless  for  the  gar- 
dener to  plant  any  in  the  open  ground  but  such  as  have  been 
tested,  and  found  to  stand  a  tolerable  degree  of  warm  weather, 
which  generally  prevails  in  May  and  June,  and  consequently 
cuts  short  the  salad  season.  Those  who  have  been  accustomed 
to  raise  head  Lettuce  in  any  quantity,  know  the  trouble  of  pre- 
paring the  ground  and  planting,  and  the  loss  they  would  sus- 
tain if  several  thousand  plants  should  run  to  seed  just  as  they 
appeared  to  be  perfecting  for  market.  As  this  is  often  the 
case,  even  with  the  very  best  attention,  I  would  caution  gar- 
deners to  test  such  plants  as  they  are  not  acquainted  with,  before 
they  set  out  any  quantity  with  a  view  to  their  heading. 

Lettuce  seed  of  most  varieties  may  be  sown  from  the 
first  to  the  middle  of  September,  in  rich  ground  free  from 
weeds ;  they  answer  very  well  when  sown  with  Spinach,  and 
should  be  covered  with  straw  at  the  approach  of  severe  weather. 
These  plants,  if  transplanted  into  warm  borders,  or  in  the 
open  ground,  as  early  in  March  as  the  weather  will  permit, 
will  produce  fine  heads  early  in  the  month  of  May. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  91 

The  best  of  the  tender  kinds  of  Lettuce  should  be  sown  in 
moderate  hotbeds  early  in  March,  and  if  transplanted  into 
good  ground  by  the  middle  of  April,  will  produce  their  heads 
before  the  approach  of  warm  weather.  Such  kinds  as  are 
known  to  produce  heads  in  hot  weather,  also  such  as  are  in- 
tended to  be  cut  as  a  small  salad  while  young,  may  be  sown 
in  warm  borders  in  March  and  April ;  but  those  designed  for 
heading  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  they  are  an  inch  or 
two  in  height,  and  kept  in  a  growing  state  by  frequent  hoeing, 
or  they  may  run  up  to  seed  as  the  season  advances. 

If  it  be  an  object  with  the  gardener  to  have  good  strong 
Lettuce  plants  for  transplanting,  the  seed  should  be  sown  very 
thin.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  a  border  of  six 
feet  in  width  by  eighteen  feet  in  length,  and  will  produce  from 
ten  to  twelve  thousand  plants.  All  kinds  of  Lettuce  intended 
for  heading  should  be  planted  in  good  ground,  twelve  inches 
distant  from  each  other  every  way  ;  the  plants  should  be  care- 
fully hoed  every  other  week  during  their  growth.  The  first 
hoeing  should  be  done  in  about  two  weeks  after  they  are  trans- 
planted. 

The  Coss  Lettuce  requires  to  be  blanched.  This  is  done  by 
gathering  up  the  leaves  of  the  plants  and  tying  bass  around 
them,  when  grown  to  perfection.  If  Head  Lettuce  be  required 
at  other  seasons  than  the  spring,  it  may  be  obtained  in  autumn 
by  sowing  seed  in  August,  or  in  the  winter  by  means  of  garden 
frames  and  glazed  sashes.  (See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.) 

Moisture  is  the  most  essential  nutriment  of  Lettuce;  and 
the  best  varieties  may  run  to  seed  without  forming  heads,  in 
the  event  of  extreme  dry  weather.  Those  who  put  off  the 
sowing  of  seed  until  May  and  June,  instead  of  sowing  it  in 
March  and  April,  as  directed,  may  procure  head  Lettuce  from 
some  of  their  strongest  plants  by  transplanting  them  into  rich 
ground  as  soon  as  they  are  an  inch  or  two  in  height,  and  the 
remainder,  if  left  thin  in  the  beds,  may  produce  small  heads 
by  stirring  the  earth  around  them  with  a  small  hoe  or  weed- 
ing-hook.  These  are  as  good  for  family  use  as  larger  heads, 


92  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

and  those  persons  who  are  fond  of  Lettuce  may  raise  such 
throughout  the  summer.  But  market  gardeners  seldom 
attempt  it,  unless  they  have  a  tract  of  moist,  loamy  soil, 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  head  Lettuce,  in  anything 
like  a  propitious  season. 

Where  the  soil  in  a  garden  is  heavy,  by  mingling  a  load  of 
sand  with  a  small  plot  of  ground  for  a  bed  of  Lettuce,  heads 
may  be  obtained  much  sooner  than  they  will  grow  in  a  heavy 
soil 


MELON. 

MELON.     Cucumis  melo. 

The  Melon  is  an  exotic  plant,  growing  wild  in  Asa.  It  is 
cultivated  in  all  the  warm  countries  of  Europe,  and  also  in 
Africa  and  America,  where  its  salubrious  and  cooling  fruit  is 
generally  esteemed. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Canteleupe  Melons,  prepare 
a  piece  of  rich  ground  early  in  May ;  manure,  and  give  it  a 
good  digging ;  then  mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six  feet  every 
way.  At  the  angle  of  each  square,  dig  a  hole  twelve  inches  deep 
and  eighteen  broad,  into  which  put  about  six  inches  of  old, 
rotten  dung.  Throw  thereon  about  four  inches  of  earth,  and 
mix  the  dung  and  earth  well  with  the  spade ;  after  which 
draw  more  earth  over  the  mixture,  so  as  to  form  a  circular  hill 
about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  When  your  hills  are  all  prepared, 
plant  in  each,  towards  the  centre,  six  or  eight  grains  of  seed, 
distant  two  inches  from  each  other,  and  cover  them  half  an 
inch  deep.  One  ounce  of  good  Melon-seed  will  plant  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  hills. 

When  the  plants  are  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three 
in  each  hill.  Draw  earth  from  time  to  time  around  the  hills 
and  about  the  roots  of  the  plants.  As  soon  as  the  plants 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  93 

have  spread  into  branches,  stop  them  by  pinching  off  the  top 
of  the  first  runner-bud.  This  will  strengthen  the  plants  and 
promote  their  perfecting  the  fruit  early.  After  this  keep  the 
ground  free  from  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  melon,  highly  esteemed  in 
Europe,  which  do  not  succeed  in  this  country ;  the  gardener 
should,  therefore,  plant  only  such  as  have  been  tested  and 
found  to  produce  good  fruit  here,  or  our  superior  old  sorts  may 
become  degenerated.  After  a  judicious  selection  is  made,  if 
caution  be  not  used  to  plant  the  different  sorts  remote  from 
each  other,  and  from  Cucumbers,  Squashes,  and  Gourds,  de- 
generacy will  infallibly  be  the  consequence.  To  prevent  the 
ravages  of  flies,  etc.,  see  General  Remarks,  Chap.  I. 


WATER  MELON. 

MELON  D'EAU.     Cucurbita  citrullus. 

The  Water  Melon,  though  by  some  considered  a  species  of 
the  former,  is  a  distinct  genus  of  exotic  plants.  They  afford 
a  very  refreshing  article  of  luxury  in  our  warm  summers.  In 
order  to  have  Water  Melons  in  perfection,  you  must  fix  upon 
a  piece  of  very  rich,  light  soil ;  prepare,  plant,  and  manage  it 
in  every  respect  as  is  directed  for  Musk  Melon,  only  let  the  hills 
be  seven  or  eight  feet  distant  every  way.  One  ounce  of  seed 
will  plant  from  forty  to  fifty  hills. 

Some  persons,  who  have  a  soil  as  rich  as  manure  can  make 
it,  can  never  succeed  in  raising  Water  Melons,  because  there  is 
too  large  a  proportion  of  clay  in  the  soil.  In  order  to  raise 
large  Melons,  a  rich,  sandy  soil,  or  a  sandy  loam,  is  essential. 
I  have  known  Water-Melon  seed  planted  where  the  ground 
was  so  productive  as  to  yield  forty  bushels  of  Wheat,  or  eighty 
of  Indian  Corn  per  acre,  when  a  Melon  of  fair  size  and  quality 
could  not  be  obtained  with  the  best  of  cultivation. 


94  JKITCHEN-GARDENINO. 

FORWARDING  'MELONS  UNDER  HAND-GLASSES. 

The  directions  already  given  for  maturing  Cucumbers  under 
glass  will  apply  to  Melons,  with  very  few  exceptions.  Care, 
however,  must  be  taken  that  they  be  kept  away  from  each 
other  at  the  time  of  fruiting,  as  instances  often  occur  of  whole 
crops  being  entirely  ruined  by  plants  of  the  same  genus  being 
raised  too  near  each  other.  Those  who  wish  to  forward  Melons 
may  prepare  a  hotbed,  early  in  the  season,  for  plants.  If  the 
ridging  system  be  adopted,  and  a  hand-glass  applied  to  each 
hill,  Melons  may  be  obtained  one  month  earlier  than  the  usual 
time. 

Gardeners  raising  Melons  for  the  supply  of  city  markets, 
may  gratify  the  public  taste  early  in  the  season  by  pursuing 
the  forwarding,  if  not  the  forcing  system.  Ridges  may  be  pre- 
pared in  the  following  manner :  In  April  or  May  a  trench  may 
be  dug  in  a  warm  border,  about  two  feet  deep  and  three  wide, 
and  of  sufficient  length  for  as  many  hand-glasses  as  are  in- 
tended to  be  employed,  allowing  three  feet  for  every  hill. 
Some  good  heating-manure  should  be  laid  in  the  pits,  managed 
the  same  as  a  common  hotbed.  To  this  must  be  added  rich 
mould  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches.  As  soon  as  the 
mould  is  warm,  the  seedlings  may  be  planted,  three  in  each 
hill,  after  which  the  hand-glasses  should  be  set  on,  and  shaded. 
After  the  plants  have  taken  root  and  begin  to  grow,  one  side 
of  the  glasses  should  be  raised  in  fine  days  to  admit  fresh  air ; 
and  as  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  glasses  may  be  taken 
off  in  the  middle  of  fine  days,  so  as  to  harden  the  plants  gra- 
dually to  the  weather;  and  by  the  latter  part  of  May  they 
may  be  removed  entirely. 

Those  persons  who  live  at  a  great  distance  from  a  glass-works 
may  make  a  protection  for  Melon-hills  by  making  wooden 
boxes,  without  bottom  or  top,  about  ten  inches  wide  and  four- 
teen inches  long.  Then,  one  pane  of  glass,  ten  by  fourteen, 
simply  laid  on  a  box,  will  subserve  the  purpose  of  an  excel 
lent  bell-glass.  Such  boxes  should  be  at  least  eight  inches 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  95 

high,  else  the  young  plants  will  not  have  sufficient  room  to 
push  upwards. 


MUSTARD. 

MOUTARDE.     Sinapis. 

The  Alba,  or  "White  Mustard,  grows  spontaneously  in  the 
fields  of  England ;  it  is  also  cultivated  as  a  small  salad,  as 
well  as  for  seed.  The  seed  yields  from  every  hundred  pounds, 
from  thirty-three  to  thirty-six  pounds  of  sweet,  mild  oil. 

White  Mustard  Seed  is  much  used  as  a  medicine,  and  per- 
sons subject  to  disordered  stomachs  often  derive  great  benefit 
by  taking  a  spoonful  of  the  dry  seed  two  or  three  times  a  day. 
Some  use  it  in  pickles,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agreeable  flavor, 
and  renders  Cucumbers,  in  particular,  more  salutary. 

The  Nigra,  or  Common  Mustard,  is  also  a  native  of  Eng- 
land. The  condiment  called  Mustard,  and  in  daily  use  at  our 
table,  is  prepared  from  the  seed  of  this  species.  The  seed  of 
each  variety  may  be  sown  in  clean,  rich  ground  in  April  and 
May ;  and  for  a  fall  salad  in  September,  in  shallow  drills. 


MUSHROOMS. 

HOW   TO    DISTINGUISH   THE    GOOD    FROM    THE    POISONOUS. 

The  Agaricus  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  genus  in  the 
vegetable  kingdom.  The  species  are  determined  upon  various 
principles.  As  some  of  the  kinds  are  poisonous,  it  is  necessary 
to  describe  the  eatable  Mushroom.  Loudon  says,  it  is  most 
readily  distinguished  when  of  a  middle  size,  by  its  fine  pink 
or  flesh-colored  gills,  and  pleasant  smell.  In  a  more  advanced 
age,  the  gills  become  of  a  chocolate  color,  and  it  is  then  more 
apt  to  be  confounded  with  other  kinds  of  doubtful  quality; 


96  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

but  that  species  which  most  nearly  resembles  it  is  slimy  to  the 
touch,  destitute  of  tine  odor,  and  has  a  disagreeable  smell. 

Again;  the  noxious  kinds  grow  in  woods,  while  the  true 
Mushroom  springs  up  chiefly  in  open  pastures,  and  should  be 
gathered  only  in  such  places.  Unwholesome  fungi  will  some- 
times spring  up  on  artificial  beds  in  gardens.  Sometimes, 
when  the  spawn  begins  to  run,  a  spurious  breed  is  often  found 
to  precede  a  crop  of  genuine  Mushrooms.  The  poisonous 
toad-stool,  Agaricus  cirocus,  may  generally  be  detected  by  the 
presence  of  a  sickly,  nauseous  smell,  though  some  hurtful  kinds 
are  so  free  from  anything  disagreeable  in  the  smell  as  to  make 
any  criterion,  drawn  from  that  alone,  very  unsafe.  The  whole- 
some kinds,  however,  invariably  emit  a  grateful,  rich  odor. 

In  order  to  ascertain  whether  what  appear  to  be  Mushrooms 
are  of  the  true  edible  kinds,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the  inner 
or  spongy  part;  if,  in  a  short  time  after,  they  turn  yellow, 
they  are  unwholesome ;  but  if  black,  they  may  be  considered 
as  genuine  Mushrooms. 

FORCING    MUSHROOMS    AT    ALL    SEASONS. 

Mushrooms  may  be  obtained  at  any  season  of  the  year,  by 
a  proper  regulation  of  the  time  and  manner  of  forming  the 
beds.  A  good  crop  is  sometimes  collected  without  making  a 
bed  on  purpose,  by  introducing  lumps  of  spawn  into  the  top 
mould  of  old  hotbeds.  The  Agaricus  campestris  is  most  gene- 
rally cultivated.  Dr.  Withering  mentions  other  eatable  vari- 
eties, which  grow  considerably  larger,  but  are  inferior  in  flavor ; 
he  says  "  that  a  plant  of  the  variety  Georgia  was  gathered  in 
an  old  hotbed  at  Birmingham,  which  weighed  fourteen  pounds ; 
and  Mr.  Stackhouse  found  one  fifty-four  inches  in  circumference, 
having  a  stem  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist." 

The  methods  of  procuring  and  propagating  spawn,  and  of 
forming  Mushroom  beds,  are  numerous.  Indigenous  spawn 
may  be  collected  in  pasture  lands  in  September  and  October, 
or  it  may  be  found  in  its  strength  and  purity  in  the  paths  of 
mills  worked  by  horses,  or  in  any  other  horse-walks  under 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  97 

shelter ;  it  is  frequently  found  in  old  hotbeds  and  dunghills  in 
the  summer  season,  and  Mushrooms  of  good  quality  may  often 
be  seen  beginning  to  form  on  the  surface,  like  large  peas.  When 
these  are  absorbed  it  is  time  to  take  out  the  spawn,  which  is 
generally  in  hard,  dry  lumps  of  dung,  the  spawn  having  the 
appearance  of  whitish  coarse  pieces  of  thread.  The  true  sort 
has  exactly  the  smell  of  a  Mushroom.  If  spawn  thus  collected 
be  required  for  immediate  use,  it  may  be  planted  in  the  beds 
at  once,  or  it  will  keep  three  or  four  years,  if  laid  to  dry  with 
the  earth  adhering  to  it,  and  afterwards  placed  in  a  warm,  dry 
shed,  where  there  is  a  current  of  air;  but  if  it  be  not  com- 
pletely dried  the  spawn  will  exhaust  itself  or  perish,  as  it  will 
not  bear  the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture. 

HOW    TO    MAKE    MUSHROOM-BEDS. 

Mushroom-beds  are  simply  heaps  of  animal  dung  and  earth, 
so  tempered  as  to  be  capable  of  producing  and  preserving 
spawn ;  but  in  order  to  have  fruitful  spawn  at  all  times,  it 
should  be  so  formed  as  to  be  always  at  command.  To  this 
end,  a  quantity  of  fresh  horse-droppings  mixed  with  short 
litter  should  be  collected.  Add  to  this  one-third  of  cow-dung 
and  a  small  portion  of  good  earth,  to  cement  it  together ;  mash 
the  whole  into  a  thin  compost,  like  grafting-clay ;  then  form  it 
in  tne  shape  of  bricks ;  which  being  done,  set  them  on  edge, 
and  frequently  turn  them  until  half  dry ;  then  with  a  dibble 
make  one  or  two  holes  in  each  brick,  and  insert  in  each 
hole  a  piece  of  spawn  the  size  of  an  egg ;  the  bricks  should 
then  be  laid  where  they  can  dry  gradually.  When  dry,  lay 
dry  horse-dung  on  a  level  floor,  six  or  eight  inches  thick ;  on 
this  pile  the  bricks,  the  spawn  side  uppermost.  When  the 
pile  is  snugly  formed,  cover  it  with  a  small  portion^of  fresh 
warm  horse-dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  produce  a  gentle 
glow  through  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has  spread  itself 
through  every  part  of  the  bricks,  the  process  is  ended,  and 
they  may  be  laid  up  in  any  dry  place  for  use.  Mushroom 
spawn,  made  according  to  this  receipt,  will  preserve  its  vege- 

5 


98  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

tating  powers  for  many  years,  if  well  dried  before  it  is  laid  up , 
if  moist,  it  will  grow,  and  soon  exhaust  itself. 

Mushroom-beds  are  often  formed  in  ridges  in  the  open  air,  co- 
vered with  litter  and  mats,  so  as  to  prevent  heavy  rains  exciting  a 
fermentation ;  and  sometimes  in  ridges  of  the  same  sort,  under 
cover,  as  in  the  open  sheds  of  hot-houses.  They  are  also  made 
in  close  sheds,  behind  hot-houses,  or  in  houses  built  on  pur- 
pose, called  Mushroom-houses.  A  moderately  warm,  light 
cellar  is  peculiarly  suited  for  the  purpose,  in  the  winter  season, 
as  no  fire  is  necessary,  and  but  little  water — the  application  of 
which  frequently  proves  injurious  when  not  judiciously  ma- 
naged. Mushrooms  may  also  be  raised  in  pots,  boxes,  ham- 
pers, etc.,  placed  in  warm  situations ;  also  in  old  beds,  in  pits 
with  glazed  frames,  and  in  dark  frames  or  pits. 

The  general  way  of  making  Mushroom-beds  is  to  prepare  a 
body  of  stable-dung,  moderately  fermented,  about  a  yard  in 
thickness,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  and  situation  in 
which  the  bed  is  to  be  formed.  When  the  strong  heat  has 
subsided,  an  inch  of  good  mould  may  be  laid  over  it,  and  the 
spawn  planted  therein  in  rows  five  or  six  inches  apart.  After 
this  is  done,  another  layer  of  mould,  an  inch  thick,  may  be 
added,  and  then  a  coat  of  straw.  Beds  well  constructed  will 
produce  Mushrooms  in  five  or  six  weeks,  and  will  continue  to 
produce  for  several  months,  if  care  be  taken  in  gathering  not 
to  destroy  the  young  ones.  As  Mushrooms  are  gathered 
from  tune  to  time,  the  straw  should  be  spread  carefully  over 
the  bed, 

Beds  made  in  a  convenient  place,  where  there  is  space  all 
around,  may  be  formed  so  as  to  make  four  sloping  surfaces, 
similar  to  the  roof  of  a  house,  which,  by  being  spawned  on  the 
four  sides,  will  yield  abundantly.  The  celebrated  Mr.  Nichol 
makes  his  beds  without  spawn.  The  following  are  his  direc- 
tions, taken  from  London's  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening : 

"  After  having  laid  a  floor  of  ashes,  stones,  chips,  gravel,  or 
brick-bats,  so  as  to  keep  the  bed  quite  dry  and  free  from  under^ 
damp,  lay  a  course  of  horse-droppings  six  inches  thick.  These 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  99 

should  be  new  from  the  stables,  and  must  not  be  broken,  and 
the  dryer  the  better.  They  may  be  collected  every  day  until 
the  whole  floor  or  sole  be  covered  to  the  above  thickness ; 
but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  ferment  nor  to  heat.  In  the 
whole  process  of  making  up,  the  bed  should  be  as  much 
exposed  to  the  air  as  possible ;  and  it  should  be  carefully  de- 
fended from  wet,  if  out  of  doors.  When  this  course  is  quite  dry, 
and  judged  to  be  past  a  state  of  fermentation,  cover  it  to  the 
thickness  of  two  inches  with  light,  dry  earth;  if  sandy,  so 
much  the  better.  It  is  immaterial  whether  it  be  rich  or  not ; 
the  only  use  of  earth  here  being  for  spawn  to  run  and  mass  in. 
Now  lay  another  course  of  droppings,  ajid  earth  them  over  as 
above,  when  past  a  state  of  fermentation :  then  a  third  course, 
which,  in  like  manner,  earth  all  over.  This  finishes  the  bed, 
which  will  be  a  very  strong  and  productive  one,  if  properly 
managed  afterwards. 

"  Observe,  that  in  forming  the  bed,  it  should  be  a  little 
rounded,  in  order  that  the  centre  may  not  be  more  wet  or 
moist  than  the  sides.  This  may  be  done  in  forming  the  sole 
or  floor  at  first,  and  the  bed  would  then  be  of  equal  strength 
in  all  parts.  If  it  be  made  up  against  a  wall  in  a  cellar,  stable, 
or  shed,  it  may  have  a  slope  of  a  few  inches  from  the  back  to 
the  front,  less  or  more,  according  to  its  breadth.  I  have  some- 
times been  contented  with  two  courses  as  above,  instead  of 
three ;  and  often,  when  materials  were  scarce,  have  made  them 
up  slighter,  thus :  three  four-inch  courses  of  droppings,  with 
one  inch  of  earth  between  each,  and  a  two-inch  covering  at 
top.  Such  a  bed  as  this  I  have  had  produce  for  ten  or  twelve 
successive  months;  yet  very  much  depends  on  the  state  of 
the  materials,  on  the  care  taken  in  making  up  the  beds,  and 
on  the  after-management. 

"The  droppings  of  hard-fed  horses  only  are  useful.  Those 
of  horses  kept  on  green  food  will,  of  themselves,  produce  few 
or  no  Mushrooms.  I  have  made  up  beds  from  farm-horses, 
fed  partly  on  hard  and  partly  on  green  food,  and  from  carriage 
or  saddle-horses,  fed  entirely  on  corn  or  hay,  treated  them  in 


100  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  same  way  in  every  respect,  and  have  found,  not  once,  but 
always,  those  made  from  the  latter  most  productive.  Drop- 
pings from  hard-fed  horses  may  be  procured  at  the  public 
stables  in  towns,  or  at  inns  in  the  country,  any  time  of  the 
year;  and  if  the  supply  be  plentiful,  a  bed  of  considerable 
dimensions  may  be  made  and  finished  within  five  or  six  weeks. 
In  as  many  more  weeks,  if  in  a  stable  or  dry  cellar,  or  shed, 
it  will  begin  to  produce,  and  often  sooner;  but  if  the  situation 
of  the  bed  be  cold,  it  will  sometimes  be  two  or  three  months 
in  producing  Mushrooms." 

EXTREMES  OF  TEMPERATURE  SHOULD  BE  AVOIDED. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  further,  that  extremes  of  heat, 
cold,  drought,  and  moisture  should  be  avoided  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  Mushrooms.  If  the  temperature  keeps  up  to  50°  in 
the  winter,  the  beds  will  be  safe,  and  the  heat  in  the  beds  may 
rise  to  60°  or  even  70°  without  injury.  Air  also  must  be 
admitted  in  proportion  to  the  heat,  and  60°  should  be  aimed 
at  as  a  medium  temperature.  Water,  when  given  a  little  at  a 
tune,  is  better  than  too  much  at  once,  after  the  spawn  has 
begun  to  spread ;  and  the  water  for  this  purpose  should  always 
be  made  blood-warm.  A  light  covering  of  straw  may  be  used 
to  preserve  moisture  on  the  surface ;  and  if  the  beds  are  made 
in  open  frames,  or  otherwise  subject  to  exposure,  the  straw 
may  be  laid  thicker  than  on  beds  made  in  a  cellar. 

Should  beds  fail  in  producing  Mushrooms  after  having  been 
kept  too  hot  or  too  wet,  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  spawn  is 
injured  or  destroyed ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  a  bed  that  has 
been  kept  moderately  warm  and  dry  should  happen  to  be 
unproductive,  such  bed  may  be  well  replenished  with  warm 
water,  and  a  coat  of  warm  dung  may  be  laid  over  the  whole. 
If  this  does  not  enliven  the  bed,  after  having  lain  a  month, 
take  the  earth  off;  and  if,  on  examination,  there  is  no  appear- 
ance of  spawn,  the  whole  may  be  destroyed.  On  the  contrary, 
should  the  bed  contain  spawn,  it  may  be  renovated  by  cover- 
ing it  again,  especially  if  any  small  tubercles  be  discernible, 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  101 

If  the  heat  should  have  declined,  the  spawn  may  be  taken 
out  and  use  1  in  a  fresh  bed.  If  beds  be  formed  in  hotbed 
frames  under  glass,  some  mats  or  straw  must  be  laid  over  the 
glass  to  break  off  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 

Although  only  one  species  of  edible  fungi  has  yet  been  in- 
troduced into  the  garden,  there  are  several  eatable  kinds.  In 
Poland  and  Russia  there  are  above  thirty  kinds  in  common 
use  among  the  peasantry.  They  are  gathered  at  different 
stages  of  their  growth,  and  used  in  various  ways — raw,  boiled, 
stewed,  roasted ;  and  being  hung  up,  and  dried  in  their  stoves 
and  chimneys,  form  a  part  of  their  winter  stock  of  provisions. 
Great  caution  is  necessary  in  collecting  Mushrooms  for  food; 
and  none  but  the  botanist  should  gather  any  but  the  kinds  we 
have  described.  Physicians  say,  "  that  all  the  edible  species 
should  be  thoroughly  masticated  before  they  are  taken  into  the 
stomach,  as  this  greatly  lessens  the  effect  of  poisons.  When 
accidents  of  the  sort  happen,  vomiting  should  be  immediately 
excited,  and  then  the  vegetable  acids  should  be  given,  either 
vinegar,  lemon-juice,  or  that  of  apples ;  after  which  give  ether 
and  antispasmodic  remedies,  to  stop  the  excessive  vomiting. 
Infusions  of  gall-nut,  oak  bark,  and  Peruvian  bark  are  recom- 
mended as  capable  of  neutralizing  the  poisonous  principle  of 
Mushrooms."  It  is,  however,  the  safest  way  not  to  eat  any 
but  the  well  known  kinds. 


NASTURTIUM,  OR  STURTION. 

CAPUCINE.     Tropceolum. 

THIS  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  Peru,  and  is  highly 
deserving  of  cultivation  for  the  sake  of  its  brilliant  orange  and 
crimson-colored  flower,  as  well  as  for  the  berries,  which,  if 
gathered  while  green  and  pickled  in  vinegar,  make  a  good  sub- 
stitute for  capers,  and  are  used  in  melted  butter,  with  boiled 
mutton,  etc. 


102  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in  drilla 
about  an  inch  deep,  near  fences  or  pales ;  or  trellises  should  be 
constructed,  on  which  they  can  climb  and  have  support ;  for 
they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way  than  when 
suffered  to  trail  on  the  ground. 

OKRA.     GOMBO.     Hibiscus  esculentus. 

The  green  capsules  of  this  plant  are  used  in  soups,  stews,  etc., 
to  which  they  impart  a  rich  flavor,  and  are  considered  nutri- 
tious. Its  ripe  seed,  if  burned  and  ground  like  coffee,  can 
scarcely  be  distinguished  therefrom. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  in  good  rich  ground,  the  first  or 
second  week  in  May,  if  settled  warm  weather,  but  not  other- 
wise, as  it  is  a  very  tender  vegetable.  Draw  drills  about  an 
inch  deep,  and  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  into  which  drop 
the  seed  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other, 
or  rather  drop  two  or  three  in  each  place,  lest  the  one  should 
not  grow,  and  cover  them  nearly  an  inch  deep.  As  the  plants 
advance  in  growth,  thin  them  out,  earth  them  up  two  or  three 
times,  and  they  will  produce  abundantly. 

ONION.     OIGNON.     Allium  cepa. 

Of  the  several  varieties  of  Onions,  the  Yellow  or  Silver 
Skinned,  and  Large  Red,  are  the  best  for  a  general  crop.  The 
bulbs  are  handsome,  of  firm  growth,  and  keep  well  through  the 
winter.  The  New  England  White  are  handsome  for  the  table, 
and  very  suitable  for  pickling,  as  well  as  to  pull  while  young, 
and  generally  prove  a  very  profitable  crop. 

Previous  to  sowing  Onion-seed  for  a  general  crop,  the  ground 
should  be  well  prepared  by  digging-in  some  of  the  oldest  and 
strongest  manure  that  can  be  got.  The  earlier  this  is  done  in  the 
spring,  the  better ;  and  the  planting  should  not  be  delayed  longer 
than  the  middle  of  April.  The  seed  may  be  sown  moderately 
thick,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  twelve  inches  apart.  Those 
who  cultivate  Onions  for  the  sake  of  their  bulbs,  may  use  at  the 
rate  of  four  or  five  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  103 

As  market  gardeners,  in  the  vicinity  of  large  cities,  find 
it  most  profitable  to  pull  a  great  proportion  of  their  Onions 
while  young,  they  generally  require  at  the  rate  of  from  eight 
to  ten  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre  of  land. 

When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  hoed.  Those 
beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  should  be  thinned  out 
while  young,  to  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from  each 
other.  If  a  few  should  be  required  for  use  after  this,  those 
can  be  taken  which  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots ;  and  if  the 
beds  be  frequently  looked  over,  and  the  small  and  stalky  plants 
taken  away  where  they  stand  thickest,  the  remaining  bulbs  will 
grow  to  a  larger  size.  The  plants  should  be  hoed  at  least  three 
times  in  the  early  part  of  their  growth ;  but  if  the  season  prove 
damp,  and  weeds  vegetate  luxuriantly,  they  must  be  removed 
by  the  hand,  because  after  the  Onions  have  begun  to  bulb,  it 
would  injure  them  to  stir  them  with  a  hoe. 

WHEN    TO    HARVEST    ONIONS. 

When  the  greenness  is  gone  out  of  the  tops  of  Onions,  it  is 
time  to  take  them  up ;  for  from  this  time  the  fibrous  roots 
decay.  After  they  are  pulled,  they  should  be  laid  out  to  dry, 
and  when  dry,  removed  to  a  place  of  shelter. 

The  small  Onions  may  be  planted  in  the  following  spring. 
Even  an  Onion  which  is  partly  rotten  will  produce  good  bulbs, 
if  the  seed-stems  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

The  Allium  fistulosum,  or  Welsh  Onion,  is  cultivated  for 
spring  salad ;  it  forms  no  bulbs,  but  is  very  hardy.  If  the  seed 
be  sown  early  in  September  in  rich  ground,  although  the  tops 
may  die  down  in  the  winter,  yet  the  roots  in  mild  climates  will 
continue  sound,  and  put  up  new  leaves  early  in  the  spring. 

The  Allium  cepa,  or  common  White  and  Red  Onions,  are 
most  generally  cultivated  by  market  gardeners  as  a  substitut 
for  the  Allium  fistulosum.     They  sow  the  seed  in  the  sprin^ 
and  autumn  months,  the  product  of  which  is  pulled  and  sent 
to  the  market  while  young. 

The  Allium  proliferum,  or  Tree   Onion,  is  propagated  by 


104  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

planting  the  bulbs  in  spring  or  autumn,  either  the  root  I  nibs, 
or  those  produced  on  the  top  of  the  stalks  ;  the  latter,  if  plant- 
ed in  the  spring,  will  produce  fine  Onions.  These  may  be 
planted  in  rows  with  a  dibble,  the  same  as  Shallots. 

The  Potato  Onion,  Allium  tuberosum,  does  not  produce  seed 
as  other  Onions,  but  it  increases  by  the  root.  One  single 
Onion,  slightly  covered,  will  produce  six  or  seven  in  a  clump, 
partly  under  ground.  The  bulbs  are  generally  planted  in  the 
spring  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart ;  but  they  will  yield 
better  when  planted  in  autumn,  as  they  will  survive  the  winter 
if  slightly  covered  with  dung,  litter,  or  leaves  of  trees,  etc. 

WHEN   TO    SOW   THE    SEED. 

Onion-seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  March  to  Septem- 
ber ;  but  those  only  can  be  depended  upon  for  ripening  which 
are  sown  in  the  first  and  second  spring  months.  It  is  a  singular 
fact  that  Onions  will  not  ripen  later  than  August,  or  the  early 
part  of  September,  however  warm  the  weather  may  be.  They 
can,  however,  be  preserved  in  the  place  where  they  grow,  by 
spreading  some  short  dung  over  them  in  autumn,  just  sufficient 
to  prevent  their  being  lifted  out  of  the  ground  in  winter. 
Onions  thus  preserved,  often  prove  more  profitable  to  market 
gardeners  in  the  spring  than  crops  which  ripen  ;  because  ripe 
Onions  are  then  scarce,  and  green  ones  prove  a  good  substitute 
for  Shallots,  Welsh  Onions,  Leeks,  etc. 

PARSLEY.     PERSIL.     Apium  petroselinum. 

Parsley  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  grows  wild  in  moist 
climates,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultivation.  The 
leaves  of  the  Common  Parsley  are  used  as  a  potherb,  and  those 
of  the  Extra  Curled  kinds  make  a  fine  garnish.  The  Large- 
Rooted  are  generally  cooked  for  the  table  in  autumn  and 
winter,  like  Parsnips. 

As  Parsley-seed,  sown  late  in  the  season,  is  apt  to  lie  in  the 
ground  some  time  before  it  vegetates,  and  often  fails  in  dry 
weather,  the  general  crop  should  be  sown  in  a  cool  situation  by 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  105 

the  early  part  of  April,  in  drills  an  inch  deep,  and  one  foot 
asunder,  allowing  at  the  rate  of  about  six  or  seven  pounds  of 
seed  to  the  acre,  or  two  ounces  for  every  three  perches  of  land. 
After  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  clean  by  frequent  hoe- 
ing. The  Large-Rooted  Parsley  should  be  thinned  out  while 
young,  and  managed  the  same  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 

In  order  to  have  Parsley  green  through  the  winter,  the  old 
leaves  should  be  picked  off"  in  September.  If  some  of  the 
roots  be  taken  up  early  in  November,  and  laid  in  a  frame,  or 
light  cellar,  the  leaves  will  keep  green  a  long  time.  The  re- 
mainder may  be  covered  up  with  straw  in  the  place  where  it 
grows.  If  Parsley-seed  be  sown  in  frames  in  spring  or  sum- 
mer, it  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use  without  the  trouble  of 
removing  it.  It  frequently  happens  that  Parsley  seed  will 
remain  in  the  ground  three  or  four  weeks  without  showing 
any  signs  of  vegetation,  and  in  the  event  of  extreme  dry 
weather,  is  apt  to  decay  for  want  of  its  most  essential  aliment 
— MOISTURE.  A  few  grains  of  Long  Radish-seed,  sown  about 
an  inch  apart  in  each  drill,  are  well  adapted  to  promote  the 
growth  of  Parsley  ;  because  Radish-seed  being  quick  in  germi- 
nating, will  open  the  pores  of  the  earth  ;  and  the  plants,  as  they 
progress  in  growth,  will  create  a  shade  sufficient  to  protect  the 
Parsley  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun. 

PARSNIP.     PANAIS.    Pastinaca  sativa. 

This  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  common  in  calcareous  soils. 
It  has  long  been  an  inmate  of  the  garden,  and  forms  a  vege- 
table dish  in  the  winter,  with  salt  meat,  salted  fish,  etc. 
Parsnip-seed  may  be  planted  from  the  middle  of  March  till  the 
middle  of  May,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  fourteen  inches 
apart ;  and  as  this  vegetable  requires  a  long  season  to  grow  in, 
the  sooner  the  seed  is  planted  the  better.  Parsnips  grow  best 
in  a  deep  soil,  which  has  been  well  manured  the  preceding 
fall.  Sow  the  seed  thick  along  the  drills,  at  the  rate  of  five  or 
six  pounds  per  acre,  and  rake  them  in  evenly. 

The  Parsnip,  although  when  in  full  growth  it  will  endure  the 

5* 


106  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  requires  peculiar  management  to 
promote  and  preserve  germination  in  an  early  stage  of  cultiiie. 
In  order  to  give  the  seed  a  fair  chance,  it  should  be  planted  in 
ground  susceptible  of  moisture,  and  not  apt  to  encrust  when 
dry.  If  cultivated  in  light  ground,  it  should  be  rolled  or 
pressed  immediately  after  depositing  the  seed  therein.  But 
this  should  not  be  done  while  the  earth  is  wet.  A  few  grains  of 
Long  Eadish-seed,  sown  in  each  drill  as  directed  for  Parsley, 
will  also  prove  beneficial  to  Parsnips. 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin  them  to 
the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  They  should 
be  kept  free  from  weeds,  by  regular  hoeing  through  the  sum- 
mer ;  a-nd  in  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use.  They  improve  in 
flavor  after  having  been  frozen,  and  will  endure  the  severity 
of  a  hard  winter. 

Parsnips  require  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes'  boiling,  accord- 
ing to  their  size  and  age.  Some  boil  them  in  water  seasoned 
with  salt,  until  tender ;  but  they  are  better  when  boiled  with 
salt  pork,  and  afterwards  mashed  and  fried  in  butter. 


PEPPER. 

POIVRE  ou  PIMENT.     Capsicum. 

This  family  of  plants  is  a  native  of  the  East  and  West 
Indies ;  some  of  their  capsules,  or  pods,  are  yellow,  and  others 
red,  when  at  maturity.  They  are  much  used  for  pickling,  and 
should  be  gathered  for  that  purpose  before  they  are  fully  ripe. 

The  seed  of  the  different  kinds  of  Capsicum  may  be  sown  in 
a  hotbed  in  March,  or  on  a  warm  border,  early  in  May.  One 
ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  three  thousand  plants.  When 
the  plants  arrive  at  the  height  of  from  one  to  two  inches,  they 
should  be  transplanted  into  good  rich  ground,  from  eighteen 
inches  to  two  feet  distant  from  each  other. 

Those  who  do  not  want  Peppers  early  in  the  season,  may 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  107 

sow  seed  in  the  open  ground  in  May,  in  drills  two  feet  asunder, 
and  half  an  inch  deep.  When-  the  plants  are  grown  an  inch  or 
two  high,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterwards  hoed 
deep  around  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds  by  repeated 
hoeings. 

The  Capsicum  Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper,  is  perennial,  and 
will  keep  in  perpetual  bearing  in  warm  climates.  In  England 
this  species  is  considered  superior  to  all  others,  on  account  of 
its  skin  being  thick,  and  also  pulpy  and  tender.  The  plants  are 
therefore  frequently  preserved  in  hot-houses  during  the  winter 
and  spring,  and  kept  in  the  open  air  in  settled  warm  weather. 


PEAS. 

Pois.     Pisum  sativum. 

Peas  will  grow  to  different  heights,  according  to  soil  and 
season.  The  Dwarf  Pea  require  less  distance  between  the 
rows  and  shorter  sticks  than  the, tall  kinds;  and  sometimes  no 
supports  at  all. 

Planting  the  early  kinds  of  Pea  should  commence  as  soon  in 
the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condition. 
All  the  other  sorts,  as  well  as  the  early,  will  answer  for  succes- 
sive crops.  A  few  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  should  be 
planted  at  the  same  time  every  two  weeks,  from  March  until 
the  end  of  May.  Persons  desirous  of  having  Peas  throughout 
the  summer  and  autumn,  may  plant  a  few  in  June,  July,  and 
August.  In  dry  weather  the  Peas  should  be  soaked  in  soft 
water  five  or  six  hours  before  planting,  and  if  the  ground  be 
very  dry,  it  should  be  watered  in  the  drills. 

Gardeners  practise  different  modes  of  planting  Peas.  Some 
plant  them  in  ridges,  others  in  drills ;  some  in  single  rows, 
others  in  double ;  some  use  sticks  for  the  dwarf  kinds,  and 
others  not. 


108  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

All  the  different  sorts  of  Peas  may  be  planted  in  double  or 
single  rows,  from  four  to  six  feet  apart,  according  to  the 
different  heights  they  may  be  expected  to  grow.  If  two  drills 
be  made  three  inches  deep,  and  about  nine  inches  apart,  and 
the  seed  dropped  along  each  drill  moderately  thick,  they  will 
yield  better  than  single  rows,  and  will  save  sticks.  When  the 
plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  let  them  be  hoed,  drawing, 
at  the  same  time,  a  little  earth  up  to  their  stems.  When  they 
get  to  double  that  height,  let  them  be  hoed  again.  At  the  same 
time  place  a  row  of  sticks  or  brush  in  the  middle  of  your 
double  rows,  and  a  few  shorter  and  smaller  ones  on  the  outside 
of  each  row,  to  assist  the  Peas  in  climbing  to  their  main  sup- 
port. You  must  be  governed  as  to  the  length  of  your  sticks 
by  the  description  of  your  Peas.  There  is  great  advantage  in 
having  sticks  of  a  suitable  height  to  the  various  kinds  of  Peas. 
The  sticks  should  not  only  be  sufficiently  tall,  but  also  branchy, 
that  the  plants  may  readily  take  hold  ;  and  they  should  be 
prepared  fan-fashion,  so  that  the  side  branches  may  extend  only 
along  the  rows.  As  the  plants  progress  in  growth,  let  them  be 
repeatedly  hoed  and  earthed  up ;  this  will  promote  a  plentiful 
bearing. 

One  quart  of  Peas  will  plant  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
two  hundred  feet  of  row,  allowing  the  largest  kinds  to  average 
one  inch  apart,  and  the  smallest  two  Peas  to  the  inch. 

To  have  green  Peas  in  perfection,  they  should  be  gathered 
while  young,  and  cooked  immediately  after  they  are  shelled,  or 
they  will  soon  lose  their  color  and  sweetness.  Let  the  water 
be  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  and  boiled  ;  then  put  in  the 
Peas  with  a  small  bunch  of  Spearmint,  and  ease  the  cover  so  as 
to  let  off  the  steam.  They  require  about  fifteen  minutes  boil- 
ing, or  five  minutes  more  or  less,  according  to  the  age  and  care 
bestowed. 

FORCING    PEAS    IN    HOTBEDS. 

The  best  kinds  of  Peas  to  force,  are  those  that  are  the  most 
dwarfish,  as  they  will  bear  earlier,  and  make  less  straw.  Peas 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  109 

run  less  to  vine  by  being  transplanted,  than  when  they  are  sown 
where  they  are  to  remain ;  and  the  plants  may  be  raised  in  a 
hotbed,  or  in  pots  or  boxes.  They  do  not  require  excessive 
heat,  the  temperature  must  be  progressive,  beginning  at  about 
50°  for  the  nursery-bed,  and  from  that  to  60°  or  65°  for  fruit- 
ing. When  the  leaves  of  the  plants  are  fairly  expanded,  they 
may  be  transplanted  into  rows  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart ;  and  the  earth  in  the  fruiting-bed  should  be  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  in  depth. 

As  the  Peas  progress  in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  stirred ; 
and  when  six  inches  high  small  sticks  may  be  applied,  so  that 
the  tendrils  of  the  Peas  may  easily  take  hold;  and  they  should 
be  moulded  at  the  bottom  to  enable  them  to  support  them- 
selves. When  they  are  in  blossom  pinch  off  the  top.  This 
will  greatly  promote  the  forming  and  filling  of  the  pods.  In 
dry  weather  Peas  will  require  to  be  regularly  watered  ;  and  as 
the  spring  advances,  they  may  be  exposed  to  the  weather. 
Should  cold  storms  occur,  the  tender  vines  must  be  protected 
with  wide  boards  placed  edgewise  on  both  sides  of  the  rows, 
and  a  board  over  the  top  until  the  weather  has  become  warm. 
Such  shields  should  be  placed  around  other  tender  plants,  when 
the  weather  is  cloudy  and  cold,  as  they  will  grow  more  rapidly 
in  a  place  where  there  is  but  little  light,  than  when  exposed  to 
the  light  of  day,  chilling  winds,  and  cold  storms,  with  no  sun- 
shine. Cold  winds  and  storms  frequently  chill  plants  so  that 
they  never  recover. 


POTATO. 

POMME  DE  TERRE.     Solanum  Tuberosum. 

The  Potato  is  known  to  be  a  native  of  the  southern  parts  of 

America,  but  has  been  greatly  -improved  by  cultivation.     The 

varieties  being  very  numerous,  it  is  unnecessary  to  point  out 

any  particular  kinds ;  some  of  the  earliest  should,  however,  be 


110 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


planted  first  in  the  spring,  to  produce  young  Potatoes  in  due 
season  ;  but  they  are  not  so  suitable  for  a  full  crop  as  the  late 
varieties. 


Potatoes  being  of  such  extensive  utility,  various  expedients 


KITCHEN  GARDENING.  Ill 

have  been  contrived  with  a  view  to  find  out  the  best  method 
of  preparing  the  seed.  In  many  parts  of  England  (where  Pota- 
toes equal  to  any  in  the  world  are  raised),  the  farmers  seldom 
plant  them  whole ;  they  take  the  Potatoes  as  they  come  to 
hand,  atd  in  cutting  them,  take  care  to  have  two  good  eyes  in 
each  set ;  the  small  Potatoes  are  deprived  of  the  sprout  or  nose- 
end,  as  it  is  generally  considered  that  a  redundancy  of  eyes 
exhausts  the  set,  and  produces  weak  plants,  which  are  n\)t  cal- 
culated to  yield  a  full  crop.  I  have  frequently  known  from  five 
to  six  hundred  bushels  raised  from  an  acre  with  small  Potatoes 
alone  cut  in  this  way.  Some  prefer  planting  the  sets  immedi- 
ately after  they  are  cut.  The  better  way  is  to  get  them  cut  a 
week  before  the  time  of  planting,  and  to  lay  them  out  on  a 
barn  or  garret-floor  to  dry. 

It  will  require  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  of  Potatoes  to 
plant  an  acre  of  ground,  according  to  the  size  and  nature  of  the 
seed-roots,  the  manner  of  preparing,  and  mode  of  planting  the 
same. 

Potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the .  first  week  in  April  until 
July,  either  in  hills  or  drills  ;  the  best  way  for  a  gardener  is  to 
plant  them  in  drills  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  about  thirty 
inches  asunder.  The  sets  may  be  dropped  six  or  eight  inches 
apart ;  and  if  a  small  quantity  of  comb-maker's  horn  shavings, 
bone-dust,  or  sea-weed,  be  used  as  a  manure  for  the  early 
kinds,  it  will  expedite  their  growth.  The  ground  should  be 
hoed  as  soon  as  the  plants  come  up,  and  a  few  times  after  this. 
Level  cultivation  is  better  than  hilling. 


"It  is  desirable,  not  only  to  get  the  best  varieties  for  seed, 
but  to  know  how  to  plant  them  and  to  raise  the  largest  and 
best  crop. 

"  The  method  I  pursue,  and  which  pays  better,  far  better, 
than  any  of  the  old  systems  generally  practised,  is  as  follows : 


112 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


"  1.  In  the  fall  plough  deeply  and  subsoil  plough,  in  all  eight 
een  to  twenty  inches  in  depth. 


5  £  2  d- » 


.    -C  £  2  2  <3 
-   '3     is  a 

O  g  «r  >  ^  g 

glllij 

w  TJ  -^  .22 

iJiiM 

O    g^fcSfe 
O   SS^-2^ 

O      A^    02     g 

rh    ®    -'"  -S  »-• 

°   *  §0^  S  § 

{>H  §  £  gas 

afcjstffl 


"  2.  In  early  spring,  plough  and  subsoil  across  the  winter 
furrows  ;  harrow  and  roll, 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  113 

•'  3.  Mark  out,  as  for  corn,  three  feet  apart  each  way,  opening 
the  furrows  eight  inches  deep. 

"  4.  At  the  intersection  drop  a  whole  potato,  the  largest  you 
have,  and  spread  upon  it  a  handful  (about  forty  bushels  per  acre) 
of  a  compost  made  of  eight  parts  of  wood-ashes,  four  of  bone 
phosphate  of  lime,  four  of  fine-ground  plaster,  two  of  finely 
slaked  lime,  and  one  of  salt;  or,  if  preferred,  three  ounces  of 
artificial  fertilizer  per  hill.  Then  cover,  roll,  and  spread  1,000 
Ibs.  per  acre  of  good  artificial  fertilizer. 

"  5.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  appear,  run  the  cultivator 
close  to  and  between,  but  not  over  them,  in  each  direction. 
Afterwards,  and  before  the  weeds  come  up,  cultivate,  both  ways, 
with  Knox's  horse-hoe — so  arranged  as  to  cut  as  shallow  as 
possible,  and  keep  the  surface  entirely  flat.  Repeat  this,  at 
short  intervals,  three  times.  Then  hand-hoe  three  times,  still 
keeping  a  flat  surface.  Allow  no  hilling  at  any  time,  nor  any 
weeds  to  grow. 

"  6.  As  soon  as  the  tops  are  dead,  dig  in  clear  dry  weather 
with  heavy  five-tined  digging  forks;  spread,  under  cover,  to 
dry,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dark,  dry,  airy  cellar,  spreading  half  a 
pint  of  freshly-slaked  lime  in  powder  on  each  bushel  of  pota- 
toes. 

"  7.  Gather  and  compost  the  dry  tops,  for  application  next 
autumn ;  then  plough  and  subsoil-plough  as  before,  for  next 
year's  crop. 

"  The  following  are  the  advantages  of  this  system  of  culti- 
vation : 

"1.  No  possible  entire  failure  of  the  crop. 

"  2.  No  rot  in  healthy  varieties. 

"  3.  The  largest  yield,  the  soil  and  variety  are  capable  of. 

u  4.  The  largest  proportion  of  large  potatoes. 

"  5.  No  degeneracy  of  varieties,  but  continued  improvement. 

"  6.  No  necessity  for  rotation  of  crops :  the  potato  can  be 
thus  grown  almost  indefinitely  on  the  same  land,  with,  perhaps, 
at  long  intervals,  a  seeding  to  clover  to  maintain  the  supply  of 
vegetable  fibre  in  the  soil. 


114  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

"  7.  No  loss  by  late  spring  frosts.  If  the  early  growth  ia 
cut  off,  the  dormant  eyes  will  grow  and  the  crop  be  saved. 

"  8.  The  greatest  economy  of  culture  and  harvesting. 

"  9.  The  highest  table  quality  of  potato. 

"  If  the  materials  for  the  compost  cannot  be  obtained,  top- 
dress  heavily  in  the  fall,  after  ploughing,  with  barn-manure,  but 
never  use  it  in  the  season  of  planting.  It  may  increase  the 
crop,  but  tends  to  engender  disease,  especially  in  wet  seasons. 

"Any  further  information  on  the  subject  will  be  cheerfully 
furnished  on  application. 

"  If  you  wish  liberal  crops  you  must  give  liberal  culture" 

FORCING    POTATOES    IN    HOTBEDS. 

Potatoes  may  be  forced  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  Those 
who  attempt  to  mature  Potatoes  in  frames,  will  of  course  pro- 
vide such  of  the  earliest  kinds  as  are  not  inclined  to  produce 
large  tops.  Potatoes  may  be  forwarded  in  growth  previous  to 
being  planted  in  the  beds,  by  placing  them  in  a  warm,  damp 
cellar.  Some  forward  them  in  pots  and  boxes,  and  afterwards 
mature  them  in  a  hotbed ;  others  plant  them  in  the  bed  at 
once,  in  which  case  the  bed  should  be  moulded  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  inches  deep,  and  the  heating  materials  should  be 
sufficient  to  keep  up  a  moderate  heat  for  several  weeks. 

Perhaps  the  most  convenient  way  to  force  Potatoes  in  this 
climate,  is  to  provide  pots  for  the  purpose,  and  plant  one  set 
in  each  pot,  and  place  them  in  a  warm  cellar  till  a  bed  can  be 
prepared.  While  the  tuberous  roots  are  forming,  and  before 
they  fill  the  pots,  prepare  the  beds  for  maturing  them,  and  then 
bury  them  in  the  mould  with  the  balls  of  earth  attached  to 
them. 

The  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  frost,  and  air  should  be 
given  at  every  opportunity.  The  common  round  Potatoes 
may  be  forwarded,  by  laying  them  thick  together  in  a  slight 
hotbed  in  March,  and  when  they  are  planted  in  the  borders,  a 
quantity  of  comb-maker's  shavings  may  be  deposited  in  each 
hill ;  this  will  greatly  promote  their  growth. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


115 


POTATO-GROUND    MARKER. 


The  accompanying  illustration  represents  a  gauge-marker,  for 
marking  out  either  potato  ground  or  corn  ground.  It  is  drawn 
bv  two  horses,  and  makes  three  marks  at  one  through.  The 


three  runners  are  each  about  four  feet  long,  eight  inches  wide, 
and  two  inches  thick.  The  two  outside  runners  can  be  moved 
towards  or  away  from  the  middle  runner,  and  secured  to  the 
slats  that  extend  through  all  the  runners.  The  slats  are  four 
inches  wide,  of  hard  wood,  and  one  inch  thick.  A  wooden 
pin  secures  them  rigidly  in  the  middle  runner,  and  iron  pins 
in  the  outside  runners.  A  tongue  belonging  to  some  light 
carriage  can.  be  used  with  such  a  marker.  The  braces  of  the 
tongue  are  secured  to  raves  bolted  to  the  slats,  as  shown  bj 
the  figure.  It  can  be  constructed  with  a  seat,  or  not.  On  sod 
ground  a  seat  will  be  necessary,  as  the  weight  should  be  in- 
creased in  order  to  make  a  plain  mark.  The  illustration  will 
show  how  the  handles  are  to  be  attached.  The  gauge-marker 
has  a  small  chain  attached  to  the  outer  end,  which  should  run 


116 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


in  the  last  mark  made  by  the  runner.  When  the  marker  is 
turned  around,  the  gauge  is  laid  over  on  the  other  side  of  the 
marker. 


TRUE  S    POTATO    PLANTER. 


The  illustration  herewith  given  represents  a  machine  for 
making  the  furrow,  cutting  the  potatoes,  dropping  the  pieces, 


covering  the  seed,  and  rolling  the  ground,  all  at  one  operation, 
in  a  workmanlike  manner.  It  was  invented  only  a  few  years 
since,  by  J.  L.  True,  Garland,  Maine.  We  have  seen  it  ope- 
rated with  one  horse,  where  it  planted  potatoes  with  great  dis- 
patch and  accuracy.  Where  a  farmer  plants  several  acres  of 
potatoes,  such  a  planter  will  relieve  workmen  of  much  hard 
labor. 

A    STEEL    CULTIVATOR   TOOTH. 

The  following  illustration  represents  one  of  the  best  kinds 
of  cultivator  teeth  that  we  have  ever  met  with  for  cultivating 
potatoes.  They  are  bolted  to  the  wood-work  of  cultivators, 
with  strong  bolts  passing  through  the  iron  flanges  or  palms 
on  the  upper  end  of  the  standard.  The  steel  plates  are 
bolted  to  the  cast-iron  standards.  When  the  earth  is  to  be 
turned  towards  the  growing  plants,  the  teeth  are  attached  with 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  117 

the  steel  plates  or  mould-boards  outwards.  If  it  is  desirable  to 
turn  the  earth  inwards,  or  away  from  the  plants,  the  teeth  are 
taken  off  the  cultivator  and  bolted  to  the  opposite  side.  Such 


teeth  can  be  obtained  of  the  inventor,  M.  Alden  &  Son,  Au- 
burn, N.  Y.,  or  of  Paschall  Morris's  Agricultural  Works,  1120 
Market  street,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

HILL'S    POTATO-DIGGER. 

The  illustration  on  the  next  page  represents  a  two-horse 
potato-digger,  recently  invented  by  Rev.  J.  J.  Hill,  Xenia,  Ohio. 
We  saw  the  first  one  that  was  ever  made,  in  operation  on  Long 
Island,  in  the  fall  of  1865.  It  works  well,  and  has  been 
thoroughly  perfected  by  the  proprietor,  R.  H.  Allen,  189 
Water  street,  New  York  City.  Those  farmers  who  raise 
large  quantities  of  potatoes  will  find  this  a  great  labor-saving 
implement. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  119 

SWEET  POTATOES. 
POMME  r»u  TEBRE  DOUCE.     Convolvulus  batatas. 

Sweet  Potatoes  are  grown  to  great  perfection  in  the  Southern 
States,  and  may  be  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York,  by 
means  of  a  moderate  hotbed,  in  which  they  should  be  planted 
whole  early  in  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  about  the 


same  distance  apart.  In  about  a  month  they  will  throw  up 
sprouts.  "When  these  are  three  inches  above  ground,  part 
them  off  from  the  Potato,  which,  if  suffered  to  remain,  will 
produce  more  sprouts  for  a  successive  planting.  Transplant  the 
sprouts  into  rich  light  soil,  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  and  the 
plants  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows,  or  in  hills  four  feet  apart. 
Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  until  the  vines  begin  to  cover  the 
ground,  after  which  they  will  grow  freely.  In  sandy  ground 
it  is  well  to  put  a  shovelful  of  rotten  manure  to  each  plant.  A 
moderate  hotbed  five  feet  square,  put  down  early  in  the  month 


120  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

of  April,  with  half  a  peck  of  good  sound  Sweet  Potatoes  placed 
therein,  will  produce  a  succession  of  sprouts  in  May  and  June, 
which,  if  planted  and  managed  as  directed,  will  yield  about 
fifteen  bushels  of  good  roots. 


PUMPKIN. 

ClTROUILLE    OU   PoTIRON.       CuCUrbltd, 

This  plant  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation,  particularly  in 
new  settlements.  The  large  sorts  are  profitable  for  cattle,  as 
some  of  the  mammoth  tribe  have  been  known  to  weigh 
upwards  of  two  hundred  pounds  each.  The  other  kinds  are 
very  productive,  and  may  be  raised  on  any  waste  land.  They 
are  generally  raised  on  cultivated  farms,  between  hills  of  Indian- 
corn,  and  may  be  planted  in  the  garden  or  open  field  in  May 
and  June,  in  hills  eight  or  ten  feet  apart,  with  three  or  four 
seeds  in  each  hill. 

One  quart  of  Field  Pumpkin-seed  will  plant  from  five  to  six 
hundred  hills.  An  ounce  of  the  finer  kinds  will  plant  from  fifty 
to  eighty  hills.  The  finest  quality  of  Pumpkins  are  known  to 
make  good  pies,  and  may  also,  after  being  boiled,  be  worked 
up  with  wheaten  flour  into  bread,  for  which  purpose  they  are 
fully  equal  to  Indian-meal.  The  knowledge  of  this  fact  may 
prove  advantageous  to  farmers  living  at  a  distance  from  cities, 
as  they  may  find  a  market  for  their  grain  or  meal  readier  than 
for  their  Pumpkins. 

There  is  a  vast  difference  in  the  quality  of  Pumpkins.  Some 
are  very  coarse-grained,  spongy,  very  watery  when  cooked,  and 
make  exceedingly  poor  pies ;  while  others  are  rich,  fine-grained, 
cook  dry  and  mealy,  and  require  but  little  or  no  sweetening. 
Pumpkins  of  a  mammoth  size  are  seldom  as  good  as  small 
ones. 

The  way  to  raise  good  Pumpkins  is.  to  procure  and  plant  none 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  121 

but  the  best  seed.  Never  plant  seed  that  has  been  taken  from 
Pumpkins  of  poor  kind.  Pumpkins  will  hybridize,  even  when 
they  grow  several  rods  apart.  Hybrids  are  always  poor.  The 
seed  is  unfit  to  plant,  as  they  will  not  produce  excellent  Pump- 
kins. Those  seeds  sold  in  markets  are  seldom  reliable.  When 
an  excellent  Pumpkin  is  found,  dry  the  seeds  with  care,  and 
plant  a  few  hills  in  one  corner  of  a  large  field,  far  away  from 
other  vines,  and  continue  to  save  the  seeds  of  the  best  specimens 
which  the  vines  produce  for  several  years.  After  a  few  seasons, 
an  excellent  variety  will  be  obtained ;  and  if  the  seeds  be  plant- 
ed on  rich  ground,  not  among  growing  crops,  very  large  crops 
may  be  grown  with  little  labor.  When  Pumpkins  are  raised 
among  Indian-corn,  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  grow  as  large 
and  fair  as  if  the  vines  were  not  shaded.  Moreover,  the  crop 
of  corn  will  not  be  as  large,  when  the  soil  produces  a  heavy 
crop  of  Pumpkins. 

One  of  the  best  ways  of  raising  a  crop  of  Pumpkins  is,  to 
stick  the  seed  one  in  a  place,  eight  feet  apart  in  every  fourth 
row  of  Potatoes,  soon  after  the  rows  appear.  The  crop  of 
Potatoes  will  come  to  maturity  before  the  Pumpkin-vines  have 
become  so  large  as  to  shade  a  large  proportion  of  the  ground. 

RADISH.     RADIS  orr  RAVE.     Raphanus  sativus. 

The  different  varieties  of  Radish  are  extensively  cultivated 
near  large  cities,  chiefly  for  their  roots,  which  are  considered  a 
luxury  after  a  hard  winter,  and  prove  acceptable  as  warm 
weather  approaches,  provided  they  can  be  obtained  in  perfec- 
tion. The  plant  is  also  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  seed- 
leaves,  which  are  used  as  a  small  salad  ;  and  even  the  seed-pods, 
if  pickled  while  young  and  green,  are  considered  by  some  a 
good  substitute  for  Capers. 

Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  having  good  Radishes  early 
in  the  spring,  should  have  a  warm  border  prepared  in  the  very 
best  manner,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  sow  some  of  the  seed  as 
early  in  the  spring  as  the  seed  will  vegetate.  If  the  ground 

6 


122  KITCHEN-GARDENING 

should  not  be  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed  at  this  time, 
let  it  be  delayed  a  few  days ;  and  by  the  first  of  April  have 
another  bed  prepared  in  the  open  ground,  by  working  in  some 
strong  well  rotted  manure.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broadcast, 
and  raked  in  evenly,  or  in  drills  drawn  about  one  inch  deep, 
and  a  foot  apart. 

If  you  wish  to  have  Radishes  in  regular  succession,  sow  seed 
of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  every  two  weeks,  until  the 
middle  of  June.  If  any  be  sown  after  this,  it  should  be  the 
seed  of  those  that  will  endure  the  heat  better  than  the  others, 
and  may  be  sown  in  drills,  in  small  quantities,  throughout  the 
summer  until  the  latter  part  of  August,  when  all  the  varieties 
may  be  sown  in  regular  succession  till  the  first  of  October. 

Radishes  must  have  a  sandy  or  loamy  soil.  It  is  folly  to 
attempt  to  raise  them  on  heavy  soils,  even  when  such  ground 
is  extremely  rich.  For  family  use,  a  load  or  two  of  sand  may 
be  mingled  with  a  small  area  of  ground  in  a  warm  corner  of  the 
garden,  and  made  fertile  with  rich  liquid  manure  a  few  weeks 
or  more  before  the  seed  is  planted.  A  shield  on  the  north 
side  of  the  bed,  made  of  boards  nailed  to  stakes  four  or  more 
feet  high  driven  in  the  ground  temporarily,  will  break  off  the 
cold  wind,  reflect  the  warm  sunshine  on  the  bed,  and  make  the 
Radishes  grow  long  before  other  plants  appear.  In  order  to 
have  excellent  Radishes,  save  and  plant  only  the  largest,  earliest, 
and  fairest  seed. 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener  of  the  neces- 
sity of  sowing  tobacco-dust,  soot,  ashes,  etc.,  over  his  seed-beds, 
in  hot,  dry  weather,  or  he  will  find  it  difficult  to  raise  Radishes 
in  unpropitious  seasons. 


FORWARDING    RADISHES. 

Radishes  may  be  obtained  early  in  the  spring  by  means  of 
a  moderate  hotbed.  The  earth  in  the  frames  should  be  a  foot 
in  depth,  and  air  should  be  admitted  every  day  after  they  are 
up,  or  they  will  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots.  If  they  come 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  123 

up  too  thick,  they  should  be  thinned  to  one  or  two  inches 
apart.  Give  gentle  waterings  as  occasion  requires,  with  tepid 
water,  and  keep  them  well  covered  in  cold  nights.  For  raising 
early  Radishes  without  frames,  hotbeds  may  be  made  in  ridges, 
and  arched  over  with  hoop-bends,  or  pliant  rods,  which  should 
be  covered  with  mats  or  canvas  cloth  at  night,  and  during  the 
day  in  cold  weather.  In  moderate  days  turn  up  the  covering ; 
and  on  fine  mild  days,  take  it  wholly  off,  and  harden  the  plants 
gradually  to  the  weather. 

In  order  to  have  tender  Radishes,  it  is  essential  that  they  be 
made  to  grow  rapidly.  When  they  grow  slowly,  and  the 
weather  is  cold,  Radishes  are  tough  and  stringy. 


ROCAMBOLE. 

AIL  D'ESPAGNE.  Allium  scorodoprassum. 
This  and  the  Allium  sativum,  or  common  Garlic,  are  raised 
in  some  gardens.  Many  people  consider  the  Rocambole  to  be 
of  a  milder  and  better  flavor  than  Garlic,  but  the  bulbs  are  not 
so  large.  The  plants  are  hardy,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any 
rich  soil  or  situation.  They  may  be  propagated  either  by  the 
roots  or  seed.  The  former  ought  to  be  separated  and  planted 
at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  manner  as  Shallots.  If 
raised  from  seed,  they  may  be  sown  in  drills,  either  shortly 
after  the  seed  is  ripe,  or  in  the  succeeding  spring.  The  plants 
require  to  be  kept  clear  of  weeds ;  and  in  the  following  autumn 
may  be  taken  up,  the  bulbs  parted,  and  planted  as  before. 


RHUBARB. 

RHUBARBS.     Rheum. 

Rhubarb  is  a  genus  of  exotic  plants,  comprising  seven  species, 
of  which  the  following  are  the  principal : 


124  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

1.  Rhaponticum,  or  Common  Rhubarb,  a  native  of  Thrace 
and  Syria,  has  long  been  cultivated  in  British  gardens  for  the 
footstalks  of  the  leaves,  which  are  frequently  used  in  pies  and 
tarts. 

2.  Rheum  undulatum  is  also  cultivated  for  the  same  use. 

3.  The  Palmatum,  or  true  Officinal  Rhubarb,  is  a  native 
of  China  and  the  East  Indies,  whence  its  culture  has  been  in- 
troduced into  Europe.     It  produces  a  thick,  fleshy  root,  exter- 
nally yellowish  brown,  but  internally  of  a  bright  color,  streaked 
with  red  veins.     The  several  kinds  of  Rhubarb  may  be  propa- 
gated by  offsets  taken  from  the  roots  early  in  the  spring,  or 
from  seed  sown  early  in  autumn,  or  in  March  and  April,  in 
drills  one  inch  deep  and  a  foot  apart.    The  indispensable  points 
to  the  production  of  good  roots  of  the  Palmatum,  are  depth 
and  richness  of  soil,  which  should  be  well  pulverized  before 
the  plants  are  set  out.     Prepare  beds  of  fine  mould  eighteen 
inches  deep,  in  which  set  the  plants  from  the  seed-bed,  ten  or 
twelve  inches  apart.     This  must  be  done  when  they  have  at- 
tained the  height  of  four  or  five  inches,  and  have  thrown  out  as 
many  leaves. 

The  first  season  is  the  most  critical,  and  more  care  is  neces- 
sary. If  the  weather  be  hot,  the  nursery  must  be  shaded,  and 
at  all  events  frequently  watered;  for  water,  though  hurtful  to 
old  plants,  is  now  of  the  first  importance.  Wet  weather  is 
the  most  proper  time  in  which  to  plant.  The  beds  must  be 
kept  free  from  weeds  during  the  summer,  and  on  the  approach 
of  severe  weather,  covered  up  with  light  litter.  In  the  early 
part  of  spring,  this  must  be  taken  off;  and  in  the  beginning  of 
April  the  plants  must  be  transplanted  into  rich  ground. 

Those  who  cultivate  the  Palmatum  for  the  sake  of  the  roots, 
should  dig  the  ground  two  or  three  spades  deep,  and  place  the 
plants  three  feet  apart  every  way.  As  to  the  other  varieties, 
it  is  not  so  particular,  only  the  plants  must  have  room  in  which 
to  grow.  In  the  early  part  of  November,  the  leaves  being 
then  decayed,  the  beds  should  be  covered  with  dry  litter.  Be- 
fore this  is  done,  a  little  earth  should  be  drawn  round  the 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  125 

crowns  of  the  plants.  If  there  be  any  danger  of  water  lodging, 
make  trenches  to  carry  it  off.  The  beds  should  be  stripped  of 
their  covering,  and  the  ground  well  hoed  and  cleared  of  weeds. 
The  roots  of  the  Palmatum  must  not  be  taken  up  until  six 
or  seven  years  old.  The  stalks  of  the  other  kind  may  be  cut 
every  spring,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  expanded. 

If  Rhubarb  stalks  be  required  for  use  early  in  spring,  they 
may  be  obtained  by  placing  flour  barrels  or  deep  tubs  over 
some  of  the  plants,  and  covering  them  up  with  fresh  stable- 
dung,  or  by  any  of  the  methods  pointed  out  in  the  article  un- 
der the  head  of  Forcing  Vegetables.  The  stalks  of  this  plant 
are  used  for  pies  and  tarts.  After  being  stripped  of  the  skin, 
or  outer  covering,  and  divested  of  the  small  fibres,  or  stringi- 
ness  to  which  the  plant  is  liable  in  an  advanced  stage  of 
growth,  the  stalk  should  be  cut  transversely  into  very  small 
pieces,  and  then  parboiled  with  sugar,  and  such  spices  as  best 
suit  the  palate.  Rhubarb  may  be  kept  in  this  way  as  well  as 
other  preserves,  and  may  be  used  not  only  in  pies  and  tarts, 
but  will  make  an  excellent  pudding,  which  is  done  by  flatten- 
ing a  suety  crust  with  a  rolling-pin,  then  spreading  on  the 
fruit,  rolling  it  up  in  an  oval  shape,  and  boiling  it  in  a  cloth. 
Prepared  in  this  way,  the  fruit  retains  its  virtues,  and  the  pud- 
ding may  be  served  up  hot,  in  slices  from  half  an  inch  to  an 
inch  thick,  with  butter  and  sugar  spread  between  the  layers. 
Some  boil  the  stalks  to  a  juice,  which  being  strained  through 
a  colander,  will  keep  for  years  if  well  spiced  and  seasoned  with 
sugar. 

After  the  roots  have  been  well  washed,  and  the  small  fibres 
cut  off,  they  are  to  be  cut  transversely  into  pieces  about  two 
inches  thick,  and  dried  on  boards,  turning  them  several  times 
a  day,  in  order  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  yellow  juice,  on 
which  its  medicinal  qualities  depend.  In  four  or  five  days  the 
pieces  may  be  strung  upon  strings,  and  suspended  in  a  shady 
but  airy  and  dry  situation,  and  iu  two  months  afterwards  will 
be  fit  to  dry. 


126  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


FORWARDING  RHUBARB. 

Those  who  may  desire  to  have  this  excellent  substitute  for 
fruit  at  an  early  season,  may  procure  it  without  much  trouble. 
It  is  customary  with  some  persons  iu  the  southern  parts  of 
England  to  keep  this  plant  growing  in  their  kitchens,  so  that 
they  may  have  it  for  use  at  any  time.  They  have  strong  neat 
boxes,  made  for  the  purpose,  about  three  feet  deep  and  two 
wide,  and  in  length,  according  to  the  demand,  from  four  to 
eight  feet;  these  being  kept  clean,  have  the  appearance  of 
flour-bins,  and  they  sometimes  are  so  contrived  as  to  have 
shelves  over  them  in  imitation  of  a  kitchen  dresser.  The  plants 
being  taken  up  out  of  the  garden  towards  winter,  are  placed  as 
close  to  the  bottom  of  the  box  as  they  can  be,  with  their 
crowns  level ;  and  some  sand  being  thrown  over,  sufficient  to  fill 
up  the  interstices,  and  to  cover  the  crowns  about  half  an  inch, 
finishes  the  operation.  No  further  trouble  is  necessary,  except 
to  give  a  little  water,  just  to  keep  the  roots  moist,  as  they  need 
no  light  at  all ;  and  if  the  roots  be  planted  in  the  garden  when 
the  spring  opens,  they  will,  after  having  taken  root,  vegetate 
as  strongly  as  before  they  were  removed. 

Roots  of  Rhubarb,  taken  up  in  autumn  and  packed  in  sand, 
and  deposited  in  a  warm  cellar,  will  produce  stalks  earlier  than 
if  kept  in  the  garden ;  and  if  placed  in  hotbeds  they  will  yield 
abundantly  early  in  the  season. 

This  plant  contains  an  acid  as  fine  as  the  Gooseberry,  for 
pies  and  tarts.  A  square  rod  of  ground  will  supply  a  family ; 
and  it  may  be  used  till  midsummer  or  later. 


SALSIFY. 

SALSIFIS  ou  CERCIFIS.     Tragopogon  porrifolius. 
This  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  open  fields  of  Eng- 
land, and  is  by  some  highly  valued  for  its  white  edible  root, 
and  for  the  young  shoots  rising  in  the  spring  from  plants  a 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  127 

year  old.  These,  when  gathered  while  green  and  tendei,  are 
good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus.  Some 
have  carried  their  fondness  for  this  plant  so  far  as  to  call  it 
Vegetable  Oyster.  It  requires  the  same  kind  of  soil  and 
management  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  an  inch  deep, 
in  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are  two  or  three 
inches  high,  they  should  be  thinned  to  the  distance  of  six  inches 
from  each  other,  and  afterwards  hoed.  The  ground  should  be 
kept  clean  and  loose  around  the  plants  by  repeated  hoeing.  In 
the  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use.  The  roots  may  be  taken 
up  late  in  autumn,  and  secured  in  moist  sand  from  the  air ;  or 
suffered  to  remain  out,  and  dug  up  when  wanted.  As  the  seeds 
of  Salsify  do  not  all  ripen  uniformly,  it  should  be  sown  mode- 
rately thick,  and  none  but  the  earliest  sowed. 

The  mode  of  cooking  recommended  by  an  American  author 
is,  "  To  cut  the  roots  transversely  into  thin  pieces ;  boil  them 
in  water,  or  milk  and  water ;  when  boiled  soft,  mash  them,  and 
thicken  the  whole  with  flour  to  some  degree  of  stiffness ;  then 
fry  them  in  the  fat  of  salt  pork  or  butter."  To  some  they  are 
a  luxury.  In  England  the  tops  are  considered  excellent  food 
when  boiled  tender,  and  served  up  with  poached  eggs  and 
melted  butter.  They  are  by  some  considered  salutary  for  per- 
sons inclined  to  consumption. 


SCORZONERA. 

SCORSONERE.     Scorzonera  Hispanica. 

This  plant  has  long  been  raised  in  British  gardens,  for 
culinary  purposes,  and  especially  as  an  ingredient  in  soups,  on 
account  of  its  palatable  and  nourishing  roots.  Some  boil  and 
eat  them  like  Carrots,  in  which  case  they  should  be  deprived 
of  their  rind,  and  immersed  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  or 
they  will  be  bitter.  They  are  raised  precisely  in  the  same 


128  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

manner  as  Salsify.  If  the  seed  be  sown  early  in  the  spring  in 
a  good  deep  soil,  the  roots  will  attain  perfection  in  autumn,  and 
continue  good  all  the  winter.  They  last  from  three  to  four 
years,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  earth  and  the  care  be- 
stowed upon  them ;  but  it  is  better  to  raise  a  few  from  seed 
every  year. 


SEA-KALE. 

CHOU  MARIN.    Crambe  maritima. 

This  plant  is  found  on  the  sea-shore,  in  the  southern  parts 
of  England,  where  it  grows  spontaneously.  As  soon  as  it  ap- 
pears above  ground,  the  inhabitants  remove  the  pebbles  or  sand 
with  which  it  is  usually  covered,  to  the  depth  of  several  inches, 
and  cut  off  the  young  and  tender  leaves  and  stalks,  as  yet  un- 
expanded  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to  the  crown  of  the 
root  It  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection.  When  the  leaves 
are  full-grown,  they  become  hard  and  bitter,  and  the  plant  is 
not  eatable.  Cultivators  have  differed  widely  respecting  the 
mode  of  treating  this  plant ;  many,  conceiving  that  stones, 
gravel,  and  sea-sand  are  essential  to  its  growth,  have  gone 
to  the  expense  of  providing  them ;  but  it  has  been  discovered 
that  it  will  grow  much  more  luxuriantly  in  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth. 

The  seed  of  Sea-Kale  may  be  sown  in  October,  or  as  early  in 
the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condition, 
in  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  and  fourteen  or  sixteen  inches 
asunder.  The  plants  should  afterwards  be  thinned  out  to  the 
distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows,  and 
kept  clear  of  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing  through  the  summer. 
When  the  plants  are  a  year  old,  every  third  row  may  be  taken 
up,  and  also  every  other  plant  in  each  row,  leaving  them  four- 
teen or  sixteen  inches  apart ;  these  may  be  transplanted  into 
good  ground  prepared  as  directed  for  Asparagus.  Plant  two 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  129 

rows  in  each  bed,  about  eighteen  inches  apart..  The  best  way 
is  to  make  two  drills  three  inches  deep,  and  with  a  dibble  set 
in  the  plants  fifteen  or  sixteen  inches  from  each  other ;  when 
these  drills  are  filled,  the  crowns  of  the  plants  will  be  covered 
nearly  two  inches,  but  they  will  soon  push  through  the  earth. 
The  plants  left  in  the  seed-bed  may  form  a  permanent  bed, 
which  should  be  forked  or  dug  between  the  rows.  Previous  to 
this  being  done,  lay  on  an  inch  or  two  of  good  rotten  manure, 
and  incorporate  it  with  the  earth  around  the  plants.  Some 
make  new  plantations  of  the  old  roots,  which  should  be  cut  up 
into  pieces  of  about  two  inches  in  length,  and  planted  three  or 
four  inches  deep,  at  the  distance  before  directed  for  the  plants. 
At  the  approach  of  winter,  the  leaves  will  die  away  and  disap- 
pear. The  beds  should  then  be  thickly  covered  with  dung, 
leaves,  or  sea-weed.  This  will  not  only  protect  the  plants  from 
frost,  but  will  cause  them  to  shoot  up  early  in  the  spring.  As 
soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  this  may  be  taken  off ; 
or,  if  well  rooted,  it  may  be  mixed  up  with  the  earth.  The 
crowns  of  the  plants  should  then  be  covered  to  the  depth  of  ten 
or  twelve  inches  for  blanching. 

Some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea-sand ;  some  common 
sand  and  gravel ;  and  others  with  large  garden-pots,  inverted 
and  placed  immediately  over  the  plants.  If  these  pots  be 
covered  up  with  fresh  horse-dung,  it  will  forward  the  shoots  in 
growth,  and  make  them  sweeter  and  more  tender.  When  the 
plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method  three  or  four  weeks, 
examine  them,  and  if  you  find  that  the  stalks  have  shot  up 
three  or  four  inches  you  may  begin  cutting.  Should  you  wait 
till  all  the  shoots  are  of  considerable  length,  your  crop  will 
come  in  too  much  at  once,  for  in  this  plant  there  is  not  that 
successive  growth  which  there  is  in  Asparagus.  You  may  con- 
tinue cutting  until  you  see  the  heads  of  flowers  begin  to  form  ; 
and  if  at  this  time  you  uncover  it  entirely,  and  let  it  grow  to 
that  state  in  which  Broccoli  is  usually  cut,  and  use  it  as  such, 
you  will  find  it  an  excellent  substitute ;  and  this  greatly  en- 
hances the  value  of  the  plant.  Sea-Kale  is  sufficiently  hardy 


130  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

to  bear  our  winter  frosts  without  much  injury.  Care  should 
be  exercised  not  to  weaken  the  roots  too  much  by  over-cutting. 
for  in  that  case  it  would  injure  their  next  year's  bearing.  Some 
of  the  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  grow,  to  carry  on  a  propei 
vegetation,  and  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  cutting,  not  to  injure  the  crowns  of  the 
roots  by  cutting  the  shoots  too  close  to  them.  Sea-Kale 
should  be  dressed  soon  after  it  is  cut,  as  the  goodness  of  the 
article  greatly  depends  on  its  not  being  long  exposed  to 
the  air. 

If  you  choose  to  force  Sea-Kale,  dig  a  trench  all  around  a 
small  bed,  about  three  feet  wide,  and  thirty  inches  deep ;  fill 
it  with  hot  dung,  and  as  it  sinks,  fill  the  depression  with  good 
soil.  This  will  make  the  plants  grow  luxuriantly.  To  have 
this  rare  vegetable  in  perfection,  it  should  be  cooked  as  soon 
as  gathered.  Let  it  be  first  soaked  in  water,  seasoned  with 
salt,  for  half  an  hour ;  then  wash  it  in  fresh  water,  and  put  it 
into  the  cooking  utensils ;  keep  it  boiling  briskly,  skim  clean, 
and  let  off  steam.  When  the  stalks  are  tender,  which  may  be 
expected  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes,  according  to 
size  and  age,  take  it  up,  dish  it,  and  serve  it  up  with  melted 
butter,  gravy,  and  such  condiments  as  are  most  agreeable  to 
the  palate. 


SKIRRET. 
CHEBVIS,  ou  GmoLE.     Slum  sisarum. 

This  plant  is  first  propagated  by  seed,  and  afterwards  by  off- 
sets taken  from  the  old  roots,  planted  early  in  the  spring,  be- 
fore they  begin  to  shoot.  But  it  is  best  to  raise  a  small  bed 
from  seed  every  year,  as  the  roots  grow  longer  than  those  raised 
from  slips,  and  are  less  liable  to  be  sticky.  The  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  drills  the  latter  part  of  March,  or  early  in  April,  and 
managed  the  same  as  Salsify  or  Parsnip.  In  autumn,  when  the 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  131 

leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  roots  are  fit  to  use.  Skirrets  should 
be  planted  in  a  light,  moist  soil ;  for  in  dry  land  the  roots  are 
generally  small,  unless  the  season  proves  wet. 

The  root  of  the  Skirret  is  composed  of  several  fleshy  tubers 
as  large  as  a  man's  finger,  and  joined  together  at  the  top. 
They  are  eaten  boiled,  and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt,  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried,  or  else  cold,  with  oil  and  vine- 
gar, being  first  boiled.  They  have  much  of  the  taste  and 
flavor  of  a  Parsnip,  and  are  by  some  considered  more  palatable. 


SHALLOT. 

ECHALOT.     Allium  ascalonicum. 

The  true  Shallot  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  possesses  an 
agreeable  flavor ;  it  is  propagated  by  planting  bulbs,  or  offsets, 
in  the  fall  of  the  year,  which  may  be  set  out  with  a  dibble,  in 
rows  twelve  inches  apart,  and  from  four  to  six  inches  distant 
in  the  rows ;  or  they  may  be  placed  in  drills,  two  or  three 
inches  deep,  and  covered  up. 

Those  intended  for  seed  may  remain  in  the  ground  until 
June  or  July ;  after  the  tops  have  decayed  the  bulbs  must  bo 
taken  up,  and  the  offsets  divided ;  these  should  be  kept  in  a 
dry  place  to  plant  the  ensuing  autumn. 


SPINACH,  OR  SPINAGE. 
EPINABD.     Spinacia. 

The  Spinacia  oleracea,  or  common  Spinach,  is  very  hardy, 
and  consequently  a  very  important  vegetable  for  cold  climates. 
It  merits  attention  from  its  being  extremely  wholesome  and 
palatable,  and  from  its  keeping  green  even  after  having  been 
cooked.  It  makes  a  delicious  dish  when  served  up  with  the 
gravy  of  roast  meat,  melted  butter,  etc. 


132  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

As  Spinach  is  the  only  vegetable  which  can  he  raised  to 
advantage  near  the  close  of  the  growing  season,  the  gardener 
should  prepare  such  grounds  as  may  have  been  occupied  by 
summer  crops  ;  and  by  having  it  well  manured  for  this  crop,  the 
soil  will  be  in  good  condition  for  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Tur- 
nips, etc.,  the  spring  following.  If  the  ground  be  prepared  so 
as  to  have  several  beds  sown  in  succession,  from  the  first  to  the 
end  of  September,  the  most  forward  of  these,  if  covered  up  with 
straw  at  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  will  furnish  greens  for 
the  table  when  other  vegetables  are  scarce,  and  the  later  crops 
will  recover  from  the  effects  of  a  hard  winter,  and  produce  ? 
wholesome  vegetable  early  in  the  spring. 

If  Spinach-seed  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in  March  and  April, 
it  will  grow  freely ;  but  it  must  be  cut  before  the  approach  of 
hot  weather,  or  it  will  run  to  seed.  To  raise  it  in  perfection 
at  this  season,  it  should  be  sown  in  drills  about  a  foot  apart, 
and  be  frequently  hoed.  This  will  keep  it  in  a  growing  state, 
and  consequently  prevent  its  running  up  to  seed  as  quick  as 
it  otherwise  would. 

It  is  altogether  useless  to  sow  Spinach-seed  in  poor  ground. 
Let  the  ground  be  well  manured,  and  the  crop  will  be  abundant. 
Be  careful  to  pick  Spinach  exceeding  clean,  and  wash  it  in  five 
or  six  waters  previous  to  cooking.  Some  cook  Spinach  in  a 
steamer  over  boiling  water.  Others  boil  it  in  water.  But.  the 
best  way  is  to  put  it  into  a  saucepan  that  will  just  hold  it, 
without  water,  then  strew  a  little  salt  upon  it,  and  cover  it 
close.  Put  the  saucepan  on  a  clear  quick  fire  ;  and  when  you 
find  the  Spinach  shrunk  and  fallen  to  the  bottom,  and  the 
juice  which  comes  from  it  boil  up,  it  is  done.  In  order  that  it 
may  be  rendered  capable  of  absorbing  a  moderate  quantity  of 
gravy,  melted  butter,  etc.,  which  are  indispensable  with  green 
vegetables,  let  it  be  well  drained  in  a  sieve,  or  colander,  before 
it  is  dished. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  133 

SQUASH. 

GOURDE  GIRJ.UMON  ou  POTIRON.     Cucurbita  melopepa. 

The  several  varieties  of  Squash  are  very  useful  in  this  and 
other  warm  climates,  as  they  can  be  grown  in  perfection  in  the 
summer,  and  therefore  prove  a  good  substitute  for  Turnips. 
The  seed  should  be  planted  in  May  and  June,  in  hills,  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons ;  and  their 
subsequent  management  is  the  same  in  every  respect.  The 
bush  kinds  should  be  planted  three  or  four  feet  apart,  and  the 
running  kinds  from  six  to  nine,  according  to  their  nature,  as 
some  will  run  more  than  others.  It  is  always  best  to  plant 
five  or  six  seeds  in  a  hill,  to  guard  against  accidents ;  as  when 
the  plants  are  beyond  danger  they  can  be  thinned  to  two  or 
three  in  a  hill. 

The  fruit  of  the  Early  Summer  Squash  is  generally  gathered 
for  use  before  the  skin  becomes  hard,  and  while  it  is  so  tender 
as  to  yield  to  the  pressure  of  the  thumb-nail.  The  winter 
Squashes  should  be  allowed  to  ripen,  and  collected  together  in 
October,  before  they  are  injured  by  hard  frosts. 

All  kinds  of  Squashes  should,  after  having  been  boiled  ten- 
der, be  pressed  as  close  as  possible  between  two  wooden 
trenchers,  or  by  means  of  a  slice  or  skimmer,  made  of  the 
same  material,  until  dry,  and  then  prepared  for  the  table  in 
the  same  manner  as  Turnips. 

In  order  to  raise  excellent  Squashes,  good  seed  is  essential, 
and  rich  ground  and  clean  cultivation  are  indispensably  neces- 
sary. The  seeds  should  be  selected  from  a  ripe  and  good 
Squash,  and  not  from  a  hybrid.  Manure  may  be  applied  in 
the  hill.  If  the  soil  be  heavy,  let  a  few  shovelfuls  of  sand  be 
mingled  with  the  soil,  where  each  hill  is  to  grow.  When  the 
vines  grow  rampantly,  pinch  off  the  ends  of  each  as  soon  as 
they  have  grown  as  far  from  the  hill  as  it  is  desirable  for  them 
to  spread.  There  is  nothing  gained,  but  much  lost,  by  allow- 
ing the  main  vines  and  branches  also  to  attain  a  great  length. 


134  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

Pull  off  all  the  Squashes  but  two  or  three  on  each  vine.  One 
good  squash  is  better  than  three  or  four  of  an  inferior  quality 
and  size. 

HOW   TO    EXTERMINATE    THE    GRUB. 

Many  times,  when  the  vines  are  a  few  feet  long,  and  young 
Squashes  have  appeared,  grubs  may  be  found  in  the  middle  of 
the  vines,  near  the  root.  Sometimes  I  have  found  six  white 
grubs,  more  than  an  inch  long,  in  a  single  vine.  They  bore 
into  the  vines  an  inch  or  two  above  the  surface  of  the  ground ; 
and  the  holes  may  be  discovered  readily,  as  foam  and  fecal 
matter  are  constantly  being  worked  out  by  the  worms. 

In  order  to  dislodge  the  grubs,  thrust  a  thin  blade  of  a  sharp 
knife  through  the  vine,  and  split  it  open  so  that  the  grubs  can 
be  discovered  and  killed.  This  is  the  only  effectual  way  to 
raise  Squashes  when  the  grub  attacks  the  vines.  Laying  the 
vine  open  will  not  injure  it. 


TOMATO. 

TOMATE,  ou  POMME  D' AMOUR.  Solanum  lycopersicum. 
The  Tomato,  or  Love-Apple,  is  much  cultivated  for  its 
fruit,  which  is  used  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts 
an  agreeable  acid  flavor.  It  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in 
various  ways,  and  is  considered  very  wholesome.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  in  a  hotbed,  and  the 
plants  set  out  in  the  open  ground,  as  soon  as  the  ground 
has  become  warm.  In  private  gardens,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
plant  them  near  a  fence,  or  to  provide  trellises.  They  may 
be  planted  four  feet  distant  from  each  other  every  way 
Tomatoes  may  be  brought  to  perfection  late  in  the  summer, 
by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  ground  the  first  week  in 
May.  These  plants  will  be  fit  to  transplant  early  in  June, 
and  the  fruit  may  ripen  in  time  for  preserves  or  catsup. 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  135 

MANNER    OF   PRESERVING    TOMATOES. 

Tomatoes  may  be  preserved  in  a  stone  or  glazed  earthen 
pot,  for  use  in  the  winter,  by  covering  them  with  water 
in  which  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  has  been  dissolved 
to  make  it  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg.  Select  perfectly 
ripe  berries,  and  cover  the  pot  with  a  plate  in  such  a 
manner  that  it  will  press  upon  the  fruit  without  bruising 
it.  Previous  to  cooking  these  Tomatoes,  they  should  be 
soaked  in  fresh  water  for  several  hours.  Besides  the  various 
modes  of  preparing  this  delicious  vegetable  for  the  table, 
it  may  be  preserved  in  sugar,  and  used  either  as  a  dessert 
or  on  the  tea-table,  as  a  substitute  for  peaches  or  other 
sweetmeats.  It  also  makes  good  pies  and  tarts,  and  excellent 
catsup. 

A  celebrated  writer  observes,  that  "  the  common  Tomato 
made  into  a  gravy,  by  stewing  over  the  fire,  and  used  as  a 
sauce  for  meat,  has  been  known  to  quicken  the  action  of 
the  liver  and  of  the  bowels  better  than  any  medicine  he 
ever  made  use  of ;  and  when  afflicted  with  inaction  of  tht 
bowels,  headache,  a  bad  taste  of  the  mouth,  straitness  of  the 
chest,  and  a  dull  painful  heaviness  of  the  region  of  the  liver, 
the  whole  of  these  symptoms  are  removed  by  Tomato  sauce, 
and  the  mind,  in  the  course  of  some  few  hours,  is  put 
in  perfect  tune." 

HOW   TO    MAKE    CATSUP. 

To  make  catsup,  use  one  pint  of  salt  to  one  peck  of  Toma- 
toes. Bruise,  and  let  them  stand  two  days ;  then  strain  them 
dry,  and  boil  the  juice,  until  the  scum  ceases  to  rise,  with  two 
ounces  of  black  pepper,  the  same  quantity  of  pimento  or  all- 
spice, one  ounce  of  ginger,  one  of  cloves,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
mace.  Tomatoes  are  excellent  raw,  cooked  with  toasted  bread, 
or  eaten  in  any  other  way.  When  I  see  a  dish  of  luscious 
peaches  and  delicious  tomatoes  side  by  side,  I  am  in  doubt  as 
to  which  I  really  like  the  best,  when  eaten  raw. 


136  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

TURNIPS.     NAVET.     Brassica  rapa. 

The  turnip  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  plant  for  both  man 
and  beast,  and  eminently  worthy  of  cultivation. 

"  Until  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  this  valua- 
ble root  was  cultivated  only  in  gardens,  or  other  small  spots, 
for  culinary  purposes;  but  Lord  Townsend,  who  attended 
King  George  the  First  in  one  of  his  excursions  to  Germany,  in 
the  quality  of  Secretary  of  State,  observing  this  root  cultivated 
in  open  and  extensive  fields,  as  fodder  for  cattle,  and  spreading 
fertility  over  lands  naturally  barren,  on  his  return  to  England 
brought  over  some  of  the  seed,  and  strongly  recommended  the 
practice  which  he  had  witnessed  to  the  adoption  of  his  own 
tenants,  who  occupied  a  soil  similar  to  that  of  Hanover.  The 
experiment  succeeded  ;  the  cultivation  of  Field  Turnips  gradu- 
ally spread  over  the  whole  county  of  Norfolk,  and  has  made  its 
way  into  every  other  district  of  England.  Some  of  the  finest 
grain  crops  in  the  world  are  now  growing  upon  land  which,  be- 
fore the  introduction  of  the  Turnip  husbandry,  produced  a  very 
scanty  supply  of  grass  for  a  few  lean  and  half-starved  rabbits." 

Mr.  Colquhoun,  in  his  "  Statistical  Researches"  estimated 
the  value  of  the  Turnip  crop  annually  growing  in  the  United 
Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  at  fourteen  million 
pounds  sterling  (equal  to  upwards  of  SIXTY  MILLIONS  OF 
DOLLARS).  But  when  we  further  recollect,  that  it  enables  the 
agriculturists  to  reclaim  and  cultivate  land  which,  without  its 
aid,  would  remain  in  a  hopeless  state  of  natural  barrenness ; 
that  it  leaves  the  land  clean  and  in  fine  condition,  and 
also  insures  a  good  crop  of  Barley,  or  of  Clover ;  and  that 
this  Clover  is  found  a  most  excellent  preparative  for 
Wheat,  it  will  appear  that  the  subsequent  advantages  derived 
from  a  crop  of  Turnips  must  infinitely  exceed  its  estimated 
value  as  fodder  for  cattle. 

The  preceding  remarks  show  the  kind  of  land  that  may 
be  made  capable  of  producing  not  only  Turnips,  but  other 
things  of  equal  value.  It  must,  however,  be  granted,  that 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  137 

some  soils  naturally  suit  particular  kinds  of  vegetables  better 
than  others  ;  yet,  as  we  have  not  always  a  choice,  if  the  soil  is 
light  and  altogether  not  suitable  for  vegetables  in  general,  two 
crops  of  Turnips  may  be  grown  in  one  year  by  sowing  seed  for 
the  first  crop  early  in  the  spring,  and  for  the  second  about  the 
first  of  August.  For  general  crops,  it  will  be  better  to  have 
ground  manured  with  short,  rotten  dung,  or  compost  containing 
a  considerable  portion  of  coal,  wood,  peat,  or  soapers'  ashes. 
Most  ground  that  has  been  well  manured  for  preceding  crops, 
and  recently  broken  up,  will  do  well  for  Turnips,  when  there  is 
not  an  excess  of  clay  and  water.  If  the  seed  for  the  first  crop 
be  not  sown  soon  enough  to  mature  early  in  July,  the  roots  are 
seldom  fit  for  the  table,  being  stringy  and  wormy ;  and  if  the 
seed  intended  for  a  crop  for  autumn  and  winter  use  is  sown  before 
August,  unless  it  be  a  very  favorable  season,  even  if  they  escape 
the  attack  of  insects  and  reptiles,  the  turnips  often  are  defective 
and  unpalatable. 

To  have  turnips  in  perfection,  they  must  be  hoed  and  thin- 
ned out  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  as  large  as  a  cent,  leaving 
the  best  plants  from  six  to  nine  inches  apart.  The  roots  will 
be  better,  and  the  crops  greater,  if  thinned  out  properly,  than 
if  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  so  closely  together  that  the 
leaves  override  and  the  roots  crowd  each  other. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  one  pound  of  Turnip-seed  is 
amply  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  ground,  yet  it  is  better  to  use 
considerably  more,  because  of  the  difficulty  of  distributing  so 
small  a  quantity  of  seed  regularly  broadcast.  This  difficulty  is, 
however,  obviated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  drills ;  and  although 
drilliug-in  the  seed  may  seem  a  tedious  process  to  those  who 
have  no  other  means  of  doing  it  than  by  hand,  the  facilities 
thus  afforded  of  hoeing  between  the  rows,  more  than  compen- 
sate for  the  extra  labor. 

I  once  induced  a  friend  of  mine  to  sow  four  ounces  of 
Turnip-seed  in  August,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  by  which  means 
he  made  it  extend  over  more  than  half  an  acre  of  land ;  and  by 
hoeing  the  plants  twice,  he  had  the  gratification  of  pulling  four 


138  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

hundred  bushels  of  handsome  Turnips,  which  is  more  than  is 
generally  taken  from  an  acre  of  land  cultivated  in  the  ordi- 
nary way. 

If  seed  of  the  Russia  or  Swedish  Turnip  be  sown  in  drills, 
any  time  in  the  month  of  July,  or  even  early  in  August,  they 
will  produce  fine  roots  towards  the  end  of  October,  provided 
the  land  be  rich  and  sandy,  or  a  light  loam  and  the  cultivation 
be  thorough.  This  kind  of  turnip  must  be  hoed  and  thinned 
to  the  distance  of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other.  If 
cultivated  in  the  field,  frequent  cultivation  between  the  rows 
will  be  beneficial,  and  cause  the  plants  to  grow  luxuriantly. 

With  many  persons  the  Turnip  is  a  favorite  vegetable. 
In  England,  a  leg  of  mutton  and  caper  sauce  is  considered,  by 
epicures,  as  but  half  a  dish  without  mashed  Turnips.  To  cook 
them  uniformly,  they  should  be  cut  in  pieces  of  equal  size, 
after  they  are  pulled,  and  after  being  boiled  tender,  let  them  be 
taken  up  and  pressed  as  dry  as  possible ;  at  the  same  time,  let 
a  lump  of  butter  and  a  due  proportion  of  Cayenne-pepper  and 
salt  be  added,  and  beaten  up  with  the  Turnips  until  properly 
mixed.  Use  the  natural  gravy  from  the  meat  unadulterated, 
and  such  condiment  as  may  be  most  esteemed. 

REPELLING   THE    TURNIP-FLY. 

Previous  to  sowing  Turnip-seed,  the  gardener  should  procure 
a  suitable  quantity  of  lime,  soot,  or  tobacco-dust,  so  as  to  be 
prepared  for  the  attacks  of  insects.  Turnip-seed  will  some- 
times sprout  within  forty-eight  hours  after  it  is  sown ;  and 
frequently  whole  crops  are  devoured  before  a  plant  is  seen 
above  ground.  A  peck  of  either  of  these  ingredients,  mixed 
with  about  an  equal  quantity  of  ashes,  or  even  dry  road-dust, 
scattered  over  the  ground,  morning  and  evening,  for  the  first 
week  after  sowing  the  seed,  will  be  sufficient  for  an  acre  of 
ground,  provided  the  composition  be  used  in  such  a  way  that 
the  wind  will  carry  it  over  the  whole  plot.  But  as  the  wind 
often  changes,  this  end  may  be  effected  by  crossing  the  land  in 


KITCHEN-GARDENING. 


139 


a  different  direction  each  time,  according  as  the  wind  may 
serve.  If  gardeners  who  raise  Radishes,  Cabbage,  and  such 
other  vegetables  as  are  subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects,  were  to 
pursue  this  course,  they  would  save  themselves  from  considera- 
ble loss. 

When  ashes  and  other  dust  is  being  scattered  over  Turnips, 
the  work  should  be  done  by  a  careful  laborer,  who  will  not 
walk  on  the  rows  of  young  Turnips,  and  thus  destroy  hundreds 
of  plants  where  they  are  already  standing  too  far  apart.  When 
the  seed  is  put  in  with  a  suitable  seed-drill,  the  roller  usually 
marks  the  place  where  the  young  plants  may  be  found. 

We  have  always  found  that  unleached  wood-ashes,  sifted 
thinly  over  the  drills  soon  after  the  seed  was  put  in,  would 
repel  the  Turnip-fly  most  effectually.  As  the  fly  is  ready  for 
the  young  plants  as  soon  as  the  first  tender  leaves  appear,  ashes 
must  be  sowed  before  the  Turnips  have  come  up,  or  the  crop 
may  be  lost.  A  thin  sprinkling  is  sufficient.  If  unleached 
ashes  be  applied  too  abundantly,  the  alkali  will  destroy  the 
young  plants  as  soon  as  sufficient  moisture  comes  in  contact 
with  the  ashes  to  dissolve  it. 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

GRAINES  D'HERBES  AROMATIQUES,  ODORIFERANTES,  ET  A  L'USAGB 
DE  LA  CUISINE. 

Angelica,  Garden,  Angelica  atropurpurea. 

Anise,  Pimpinella  anisum. 

Basil,  Sweet,  Ocymum  basilicum. 

Borage,  Borago  officinalis. 

Buruet,  Garden,  Poterium  sanguisorba. 

Caraway,  Carum  carui. 

Chervil,  or  Cicely  the  Sweet,  Scandix  odorata  cerefolium. 

Clary,  Salvia  sclarea. 

Coriander,  Coriandrum  sativum. 

Dill,  Anethum  graveolens. 

Tennel,  Common,  Anethum  fceniculum. 


140  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

*Fennel,  Sweet,  Anethum  duke. 

Marigold,  Pot,  Calendula  officinalis. 

*Marjoram,  Sweet,  Origanum  marjorana. 

*Mint,  Spear,  Mentha  viridis. 

*M5nt,  Pepper.  Meniha  piperita. 

*Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Meniha  pulegium. 

*Sage,  Common,  Salvia  officinalis. 

*Sage,  Bed,  Salvia  clandestinoides. 

Savory,  Summer,  Satureja  hortensis. 

*Savory,  "Winter,  Satureja  raontana. 

*Tarragon,  Artemisia  dracunculus. 

Thyme,  Common,  Thymus  vulgaris. 

*Thyme,  Lemon,  Thymus  serpyUum. 

Aromatic  Herbs  are  such  as  impart  a  strong  spicy  odor  and 
savory  taste ;  many  of  them  are  used  as  small  potherbs,  and 
for  sauces,  stuffings,  and  other  uses  in  cooking.  As  only  a 
small  quantity  of  these  are  necessary  in  private  gardens,  a  by- 
corner  may  be  allotted  for  them,  and  such  medicinal  herbs  as 
may  be  wanted  in  a  family. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  explain,  as  we  go  along,  that  there 
are  three  principal  descriptive  names  given  to  plants — namely, 
Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Perennials.  The  Annuals  being  but 
of  one  season's  duration,  are  raised  every  year  from  seed.  The 
Biennials  are  raised  from  seed  one  year,  continue  till  the 
second,  then  perfect  their  seed,  and  soon  after  die ;  some  of 
these  should  also  be  raised  every  year  from  seed.  The  Peren- 
nials may  be  raised  from  seed ;  but  when  once  raised,  they  will 
continue  on  the  same  roots  many  years.  Those  marked  *  are 
Perennials,  and  may  be  propagated  by  suckers,  offsets,  cuttings, 
or  parting  the  roots.  The  seed  of  any  of  the  different  kinds 
may  be  sown  early  in  spring,  in  drills  about  half  an  inch  deep, 
and  twelve  inches  apart,  each  kind  by  itself.  The  plants 
may  afterwards  be  transplanted  into  separate  beds  ;  or,  if  a  drill 
for  each  kind  be  drawn  two  feet  apart,  the  seed  may  be  sown 
in  them,  and  the  plants  afterwards  thinned  out  to  proper  dis- 
tances, according  to  the  natural  growth  of  the  different  kinds. 

Some  of  the  kinds  alluded  to  in  the  List  will  spread  very 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  141 

rapidly,  and  occupy  the  entire  ground,  if  not  kept  within 
proper  bounds.  To  prevent  Caraway,  Spearmint,  Peppermint, 
or  any  other  plant  from  spreading,  sink  boards  edgewise  eight 
inches  in  the  ground,  entirely  around  the  plot  where  such 
plants  stand.  Then  destroy  every  plant  that  appears  outside 
of  its  proper  limits.  Save  a  small  quantity  of  the  earliest, 
largest,  and  fairest  of  the  panicles  for  seed,  and  keep  the  seeds 
in  small  papers  in  open  boxes  in  some  out-building  where  they 
will  be  dry  and  away  from  mice.  When  kept  in  a  store-room 
the  vitality  of  the  seed  is  frequently  destroyed  by  being  dried 
to  death. 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  AND  OTHER 
PURPOSES. 

GRAINES  DE    PLANTES    MEDICINALES. 

Bene,  Sesamum  orientate. 

Boneset  or  Thoroughwort,  Eupatorium  perfoliatum. 

*Balm,  Melissa  officinalis. 

Bean,  Castor  Oil,  Ricinus  communis. 

Burdock,  Arctium  lappa. 

Catnip,  Nepeta  cataria. 

Celandine,  Chelidonium  majus. 

*Chamomile,  Anthemis  nobilis. 

*Comfrey,  Symphytum  officinale. 

*Elecampane,  Inula  helenium, 

Feverfew,  Chrysanthemum  parthenium. 

*Horehound,  Marrvbium  vulgare. 

*Horsemint,  Mbnarda  punctata. 

*Hyssop,  Hyssopus  officinalis. 

*Lavender,  Lavandula  spica. 

Lovage,  Ligusticum  levisticum. 

*Mallow,  Marsh,  Althea  officinalis. 

*Motherwort,  Leonurus  cardiaca. 

*Patience  Dock,  Rumex  patientia. 

*Pinkroot,  Carolina,  Spigelia  Marylandica. 

Poppy  Opium  (annual),  Papaver  somniferum. 


1 43  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

*Rosemary,  Rosmarinus  officinalis. 

*Rue,  Garden,  Ruta  graveolens. 

Saffron,  Bastard,  Carthamus  tinctorius. 

Skullcap,  or  Mad-Dog  Plant,  Scutdlaria  lateriflora. 

Snakeroot,  Virginian,  Aristolochia  serpeniaria. 

*Sorrel,  Rumex  acetosella. 

*Southernwood,  Artemisia  abrotanum. 

*Speedwell,  Virginian,  Veronica  Virginica. 

*Spikenard,  Aralia  racemosa. 

*Tansy,  Tanacetum  vulgare. 

*Wormwood,  Artemisia  absinthium. 

Many  of  the  foregoing  plants  are  useful,  and  may  be  raised 
in  a  small  plot  of  ground  appropriated  especially  to  their  pro- 
duction. Some  of  the  plants  in  this  list  are  considered  noxious 
weeds ;  and  all  the  seed  should  be  gathered  and  destroyed,  ex- 
cept so  much  as  it  is  desirable  to  save.  It  is  by  no  means 
difficult  to  keep  each  kind  of  these  plants  on  a  small  plot  by 
itself,  as  stated  on  a  previous  page. 

The  best  time  to  save  plants  for  medicinal  purposes  is  when 
they  are  in  full  bloom.  Spread  the  stems  and  leaves  on  a  shelf, 
or  floor,  until  they  are  quite  dry ;  then  they  may  be  wrapped 
in  papers,  or  pulverized  by  rubbing  between  the  hands  until 
thoroughly  pulverized,  when  the  powder  may  be  kept  in  tin  or 
other  boxes  properly  labelled. 

FORCING  VEGETABLES. 

Before  I  proceed  to  show  the  method  of  forcing  vegetables, 
it  may  be  necessary  for  me  to  remind  my  readers,  that  in  pro- 
viding an  artificial  climate,  they  should  consider  the  nature  of 
the  plants  they  intend  to  cultivate,  and  endeavor  to  supply 
them  with  that  which  is  best  calculated  to  nourish  and  support 
them.  tl  have,  in  another  part  of  this  work,  endeavored  to 
show  that  heat,  light,  air,  and  moisture,  are  each  essential  to 
vegetation,  and  that  these  should  be  supplied  in  a  judicious 
manner,  according  to  circumstances. 

In  the  midst  of  our  Northern  winters,  which  is  the  usual  time 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  „  143 

for  forcing  in  England,  we  are  subject  to  north-west  winds, 
which  produce  extreme  freezing.  Now,  as  we  have  not  yet 
discovered  how  to  make  an  artificial  air,  it  will  not  be  safe  for 
the  gardener  to  raise  a  bottom  heat  under  any  kind  of  vegeta- 
ble until  such  time  as  he  can  impart  a  tolerable  share  of  salu- 
brious air,  as  the  heat  without  air  will  soon  destroy  the  fruits 
of  his  labor.  , 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  treat  of  the  cultivation  of  Pineapples, 
Grapes,  Cherries,  or  other  fruits  grown  in  forcing-houses ;  nor 
would  it  be  advisable  with  us  to  undertake  to  raise  Cucumbers, 
Melons,  etc.,  in  frames  throughout  the  severe  winters  of  our 
Northern  States;  but  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the  ex- 
treme heat  of  our  summers  is  as  detrimental  to  the  cultivation 
of  some  of  the  most  valuable  kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  as 
the  coldness  of  our  winters  ;  and  for  these  reasons,  artificial  aid 
is  more  necessary  here  in  the  winter  and  spring  of  the  year 
than  in  England,  where  a  supply  of  the  different  varieties  of 
Artichokes,  Broad  Beans,  Borecole,  Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Kale, 
Lettuce,  Radishes,  Rhubarb,  Spinach,  Turnips,  and  salads  in 
general,  is  easily  obtained,  a  great  part  of  the  year,  from  their 
kitchen- gardens  ;  whereas,  if  we  were  to  attempt  to  supply  our 
markets  with  culinary  vegetables  at  all  times,  in  anything  like 
the  abundance  that  they  have  them  there,  we  must,  out  of  the 
ordinary  seasons  for  gardening  operations,  turn  our  attention 
to  the  protecting  and  forwarding  as  well  as  the  forcing  system. 

The  frame  being  set  over  the  pit,  and  properly  fastened,  the 
fresh  dung  should  be  spread  regularly  in  the  pit  to  the  depth 
of  twenty  or  twenty-four  inches ;  if  the  dung  be  in  a  good  heat- 
ing condition,  cover  it  six  or  eight  inches  deep  with  mould,  then 
lay  on  the  ashes,  and  protect  the  beds  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  In  two  or  three  days  the  rank  steam  will  pass 
off;  it  will  then  be  necessary  to  stir  the  mould  before  the  seed 
be  sown,  to  prevent  the  growth  of  young  weeds  that  may  be  ger- 
minating; then  sow  the  seed  either  in  shallow  drills  or  broad- 
cast, as  equally  as  possible,  reserving  a  small  quantity  of  the 
warm  mould  to  be  sown  lightly  over  the  seed.  The  beds 


144  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

should  afterwards  be  attended  to,  as  directed  for  Broccoli  and 
Cauliflower. 

The  depth  of  heating  materials  must  be  regulated  by  the 
season  of  the  year  at  which  the  work  is  commenced,  and  also 
to  the  purposes  for  which  the  hotbeds  are  intended.  Beds  used 
for  the  purpose  of  raising  half-hardy  plants,  or  for  procuring 
seedling-plants  late  in  the  spring,  may  be  made  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  the  common  hotbed ;  but  if  substantial  heat 
is  required  to  be  kept  up,  the  beds  must  be  so  contrived  as  to 
admit  of  linings  as  the  heat  decreases ;  and  the  dung  should 
undergo  a  regular  process  of  preparation,  according  to  the  use 
it  is  intended  for.  Compost  heaps  should  also  be  provided,  in 
order  to  furnish  suitable  mould  to  the  different  species  of 
plants ;  for  this  purpose,  all  the  old  hotbed  dung  and  mould, 
leaves,  tan,  turf,  sand,  and  other  light  manures  and  decayed 
animal  dung,  should  be  collected  together. 

In  some  cases,  when  a  slight  hotbed  is  recommended  for 
forwarding  hardy  plants,  if  it  should  happen  that  a  seedling 
Cucumber-bed  be  at  liberty,  it  may  answer  every  purpose  for 
Radishes,  Lettuce,  or  other  hardy  plants ;  or  such  a  bed  may 
be  spawned  for  Mushrooms,  if  required. 

If  the  forcing  be  commenced  before  the  coldest  of  the  winter 
is  past,  great  precaution  must  be  used,  lest  the  plants  be  in- 
jured by  cold  cutting  winds,  or  destroyed  by  heat  for  want  of 
air.  To  prevent  the  former  accident,  warm  dung  should  be 
placed  around  the  frames,  and  the  sashes  covered  with  mats 
and  boards  every  night.  If  full  air  cannot  be  admitted  in  the 
daytime,  the  sashes  must  be  slidden  down  to  let  off  the  steam  ; 
at  the  same  time  mats  may  be  laid  over  the  aperture,  to  pre- 
vent cold  air  entering  to  the  plants. 

If  the  bottom  heat  in  a  bed  be  too  violent,  which  is  some- 
times the  case,  means  must  be  used  to  decrease  it.  This  is 
generally  effected  by  making  holes  in  the  bed  with  a  stake 
sharpened  at  the  end,  or  with  a  crowbar ;  and  filling  the  holes 
•with  water  until  the  heat  is  sufficiently  reduced.  In  lining 
hotbeds,  if  the  heat  is  reduced  in  the  body  of  the  beds,  holes 


KITCHEN-GARDENING.  145 

may  be  carefully  made  to  admit  heat  from  the  fresh  linings,  so 
as  to  enliven  the  heat  of  the  bed. 

A  thermometer  should  always  be  at  hand  at  the  time  of 
forcing,  to  be  used,  when  necessary,  to  regulate  the  heat  in  the 
beds ;  and  the  water  that  is  used  to  plants  cultivated  in  frames, 
should  be  warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  air,  or  according 
to  the  heat  required  for  the  various  kind  of  plants. 

FOECING    ASPARAGUS   IN   HOTBEDS. 

As  Asparagus  is  apt  to  grow  weak  and  slender  by  extreme 
bottom  heat,  it  is  forced  with  greater  success,  and  with  less 
trouble,  in  flued  pits  in  a  hot-house,  than  in  dung  hotbeds,  be- 
cause the  heat  from  tan  is  more  regular ;  yet  a  suitable  bed 
may  be  formed  in  a  deep  hotbed  frame,  made  in  the  usual  way. 
If  dung  alone,  or  a  mixture  of  dung  and  leaves  be  used,  it 
should  be  in  a  state  past  heating  immoderately  before  it  is  made 
into  a  bed. 

For  the  purpose  of  keeping  up  a  regular  heat,  a  lining  of  hot 
dung  should  be  applied  around  the  frame,  and  changed  as 
occasion  requires. 

If  there  be  a  strong  heat  in  a  bed,  slide  down  the  sashes  till 
it  begins  to  decline.  The  temperature  at  night  should  never 
be  under  50°,  and  it  may  rise  to  65°  without  injury  ;  when  the 
buds  begin  to  appear,  as  much  air  must  be  daily  admitted  as 
the  weather  will  permit.  In  two  or  three  days  after  the  beds 
are  planted,  the  heat  will  begin  to  rise,  when  the  beds  should 
have  a  moderate  supply  of  water,  applied  from  a  watering-pot 
with  the  rose  attached,  and  repeated  every  three  or  four  days. 

A  frame  of  ordinary  size,  calculated  for  three  sashes,  will  hold 
from  three  to  five  hundred  plants,  according  to  their  age  and 
size  ;  and  will,  if  properly  managed,  yield  a  dish  every  day  for 
about  three  weeks.  On  the  above  estimate,  if  a  constant  suc- 
cession of  Asparagus  be  required,  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant 
a  bed  every  eighteen  or  twenty  days. 

Rhubarb  and  Sea-Kale  may  be,  and  sometimes  are,  forced  in 

7 


146  KITCHEN-GARDENING. 

the  same  manner  as  Asparagus ;  but  the  most  general  mode  is 
to  excite  them  where  they  stand  in  the  open  garden,  by  the 
application  of  warm  dung,  and  a  shield  made  of  boards  foui 
feet  high  to  protect  the  young  plants  frcm  the  cold  winds. 


INDEX. 


A. 

PAGH 

Ashes — peat 14 

Artichoke— 32 

"Winter  management  of 33 

Jerusalem 75 

Aromatic — pot  and  sweet  herbs .'.  .139 

Asparagus — 35 

Winter  dressing  of  beds 37 

Spring  dressing  of  beds 38 

Forcing  of  in  hotbeds 145 


B. 

Beans— 40 

pole  or  running 43 

Beets 44 

Borecole  or  kale 46 

Brussels  sprouts 46 

Broccoli 47 

Blanching  celery 63 

Bugs — destroying  of  green 41 


0. 

Crops — rotation   of 16 

Cauliflower 50 

Cabbage 53 


148  INDEX. 

PAGB 

Cabbage — evil  of  deep  planting 55 

how  to  keep 56 

Colewort  or  collards 57 

Cardoons 58 

Carrots 59 

Celery 62 

blanching  of 63 

best  way  of  storing 65 

Corn  salad  or  fetticus 66 

Cress — water 66 

Cucumber — 67 

raising  in  hotbeds .  67 

Chives  or  cives 71 

Cultivator — a  steel  tooth  of 116 

Catsup — how  to  make 135 


D. 

Drills — planting  in 18 

Deep  planting 27 

Dry  fodder 77 


B. 

English  dwarf  beans » 40 

Egg  plant — 71 

manner  of  cooking — 72 

Endive  or  succory 73 


F. 

Forcing  various  kinds  of  vegetables 25 

Fetticus  or  corn  salad. .  .  66 


G. 

Ground — laying  out  of 10 

Garden — arrangement  of 12 


INDEX.  149 

PAGK 

Gardening — time  to  commence 24 

Geeen-bugs — destroying  of 41 


H. 

Hotbeds 26 

Horseradish 74 

Hop — method  of  cultivating 83 

names  of  different  varieties 83 

preparation  of  soil 84 

cultivation  and  training 85 

when  and  how  to  pick  86 

manner  of  drying 86 

manner  of  bagging 87 

yield  per  acre: 88 

medicinal  properties  of 88 

stacking  the  poles 89 

Herbs — aromatic,  pot  and  sweet 139 


I. 

Insects — repelling  of 14 

Indian  corn — 75 

preparation  of  soil  and  seeding 78 

for  dry  fodder 77 

how  to  cure  the  stalks 79 

description  of  illustrations 80 


J.       . 
Jerusalem  artichoke 75 


Kitchen-gardening — remarks  on ,  <,.,....... 9 

Kidney  dwarf  beans 41 

Kale  or  borecole 46 


150  INDEX. 

L. 

PAG» 

Leek , 89 

Lettuce..  ,.  90 


M. 

Manure — how  applied 12 

distribution  of 20 

Means  for  repelling  insects 29 

Maize  for  soiling  or  dry  fodder 77 

Medicinal  properties  of  hops 88 

Melon — water 92 

Melons — forwarding  under  hand  glasses 94 

Mustard 95 

Mushrooms — 95 

how  to  distinguish  the  good- from  the  poisonous 96 

forcing  of,  at  all  seasons 96 

how  to  make  the  beds 97 

extremes  of  temperature  should  be  avoided 100 


Nasturtium  ......  .  ...........................................  101 


0. 


Okra  .......................................................  102 

Onion  —  ...................................  .................  102 

when  to  harvest  ......................................  103 

when  to  sow  the  seed.  .  .  .104 


P. 

Peat  ashes — value  of 14 

Planting  hi  drills 18 

Planting — deep 27 

Parsley 104 


INDEX.  151 

PAGH 

Parsnip 105 

Pepper ,    107 

Peas— 107 

forcing  of  in  hotbeds , 108 

Potato — 109 

how  to  raise  large  crops  of Ill 

forcing  of  in  hotbeds 114 

ground-marker 115 

planter,  True's 116 

digger,  Hill's 118 

sweet 119 

Pumpkin 120 

Pot,  aromatic  and  sweet  herbs 139 

Plants— cultivated  for  medicinal  and  other  purposes 141 


R. 

Radish  — 121 

forwarding  of 122 

Rocambole 123 

Rhubarb— 123 

forwarding  of 126 


S. 

Saltpetre  as  a  fertilizer 13 

Soils — improving  of. 13 

preparation  of 15 

Seed  and  seeding It 

Seeds— vitality  of 21 

Stone  fruit— seeds  of 22 

Seeds — causes  of  failure  in  their  germination 22 

quantity  of 23 

Soils — adapting  plants  to 27 

Salad  —corn 66 

Succory  or  endive 73 

Soiling — maize  for 77 

Sturtion 101 

Sweet  potatoes 1 19 

Salsify 126 


152  INDEX. 


Scorzonera  ......  »  ...........................................  12*7 

Sea  kale  ....................................................  128 

Skirret  .....................  ................................  130 

Shallot  .....................................................  131 

Spinach  or  spinage  ...........................................  131 

Squash  —  ...................................................  133 

how  to  exterminate  the  grub  .........................  134 


T. 

Table  showing  the  number  of  plants  on  an  acre 20 

Time  to  commence  gardening 24 

Tomato— 134 

manner  of  preserving 135 

Turnips 136 

Turnip-fly— repelling  of 138 


V. 

Vegetables — forcing  of  various  kinds 25 

Varieties  of  artichoke — 32 

asparagus 35 

Vegetables— forcing  of 142 


T. 
Young  plants — arrangement  of 36 


PA.RT    II. 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  L 

SELECTING   FRUIT-TREES    IN   THE    NURSERY. 

IN  the  choice  of  fruit-trees,  all  possible  care  and  attention 
are  necessary ;  for,  to  have  trees  that  do  not  answer  the  expec- 
tations of  the  proprietor,  is  a  great  disappointment.  As  the 
young  gardner  ma}7  need  such  directions  calculated  to  govern 
him  in  his  choice,  I  shall  endeavor  to  furnish  them.  Whatever 
species  or  varieties  of  fruit-trees  are  wanted,  choose  those  trees 
that  are  vigorous  and  straight,  and  of  a  healthy  appearance. 
Whether  they  have  been  grafted  or  budded,  be  careful  to 
select  such  as  have  been  worked  on  young  stocks.  Grafts  and 
buds  inserted  into  old,  crooked,  stunted  stocks,  seldom  succeed 
well.  Trees  that  are  healthy,  have  always  a  smooth,  clean, 
shining  bark.  Such  as  are  mossy,  or  have  a  rough,  wrinkled 
bark,  or  are  the  least  affected  by  canker,  should  be  rejected. 
Canker  is  discoverable  in  the  young  wood,  and  generally  two 
or  three  inches  above  the  graft  or  bud.  If  the  tree  be  an 
Apricot,  Nectarine,  Peach,  or  Plum,  and  any  gum  appears  on 
the  lower  part  of  it,  do  not  fix  upon  that.  Let  the  tree  you 
select  (if  a  dwarf)  be  worked  about  six  inches  from  the  ground, 
and  only  one  graft  or  bud  should  be  upon  each  stock ;  for  when 
there  are  more,  the  tree  cannot  be  brought  to  so  handsome  a 
form. 

In  some  of  the  following  articles,  it  will  be  seen  that  several 

1* 


10  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

descriptions  of  trees  may  be  transplanted  with  safety,  even 
when  far  advanced  in  growth.  When  trees  of  four  or  five 
years'  growth,  after  having  been  headed  down,  that  are  healthy, 
and  well  furnished  with  fruit-bearing  wood  close  up  to  the 
centre  of  the  tree,  can  be  obtained,  they  will  do  very  well ;  but 
great  care  is  requisite  in  taking  up,  removing,  and  planting 
such.  Let  the  tree  be  taken  up  with  as  great  a  portion  of  the 
roots  as  possible,  taking  care  not  to  bruise,  split,  or  damage 
them ;  for  want  of  attention  to  these  points,  trees  often  become 
diseased.  Whenever  any  roots  have  been  accidentally  broken, 
split,  or  otherwise  damaged  in  taking  up  the  tree,  let  them  be 
cut  off;  or  if  they  cannot  be  well  spared,  let  the  damaged  or 
bruised  part  be  pared  clean  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  a  portion 
of  grafting-wax  be  spread  over  the  wound,  in  order  to  keep 
the  wet  from  it,  which  would  otherwise  injure  the  tree. 

The  necessity  of  pruning-in  and  dressing  mangled  roots  is 
particularly  required  in  trees  of  the  stone  fruit,  such  as  Apri- 
cots, Nectarines,  Peaches,  and  Plums ;  for  without  the  appli- 
cation of  some  remedy,  they  gum  at  the  roots,  which  defect, 
if  not  counteracted,  very  materially  injures  the  upper  part  of 
the  trees,  which  may  become  so  affected  as  never  to  recover 
afterwards ;  therefore,  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  occa- 
sion such  injury ;  and  when  accidents  happen,  all  due  caution 
and  application  are  necessary  to  promote  a  healthy  and  vigor- 
ous growth. 

A  young  tree,  likely  to  do  well,  should  have  roots  nearly 
corresponding  to  the  branches;  at  least,  it  should  have  one 
strong  root  in  a  similar  proportion  to  the  bole  of  the  tree,  with 
a  proper  distribution  of  branching  fibres.  Healthy  roots  are 
always  smooth  and  clear ;  their  color  varies  a  little  according 
to  the  kind  of  tree ;  but  the  older  the  roots  are,  the  darker  the 
color  is. 

After  the  tree  is  taken  up,  be  careful,  in  conveying  it  to  the 
place  where  it  is  to  be  planted,  that  the  roots  are  not  chafed 
or  rubbed.  If  trees  are  to  be  conveyed  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, they  should  be  well  guarded  by  straw,  or  otherwise,  in 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  1 1 

order  to  prevent  injury.  All  damaged  or  braised  roots  should 
be  pruned,  as  soon  as  the  tree  is  taken  up ;  but  if  it  be  neces- 
sary to  prune  away  any  sound,  good  roots,  such  pruning  should 
be  delayed  until  the  time  of  planting.  In  pruning  away  roots, 
always  let  them  be  finished  by  a  clear  cut,  and  in  a  sloping 
direction.  When  trees  are  planted  at  an  advanced  season  in 
the  spring  of  the  year,  it  will  be  necessary  to  prune  the  tops ; 
and  if  trees  are  removed  that  have  been  trained  three  or  four 
years,  and  are  not  properly  supplied  with  young  wood,  they 
must  be  cut  down  either  wholly  or  partially,  in  order  to  obtain 
a  sufficiency.  In  practising  this  upon  Apricot  and  Nectarine 
trees,  always  prune  so  as  to  have  a  leading  shoot  close  below 
the  cut,  as  it  is  very  rare  they  will  push  a  shoot  below,  unless 
there  be  a  lead.  This  attention  is  not  so  particularly  required 
in  the  Pear,  as  such  will  generally  push  forth  shoots,  although 
no  leading  ones  are  left;  but  in  all  kinds,  the  younger  the 
wood  is,  the  more  certainly  are  shoots  to  be  produced.  If  a 
tree  that  has  been  under  training  for  one  or  two  years,  should 
only  have  one  strong,  leading  shoot,  and'  two  or  three  weaker 
ones  which  do  not  proceed  from  it,  let  the  weak  shoots  be 
pruned  clean  away,  and  shorten  the  strong  one,  from  which  a 
handsome  head  may  afterwards  be  formed.  For  further  direc- 
tions as  respects  pruning  or  planting  fruit-trees,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  succeeding  articles  on  these  subjects. 

DESCRIPTIVE    LIST  OF  FRUIT. 

In  order  to  assist  the  reader  in  making  a  judicious  selection 
of  fruit-trees,  I  have  furnished  a  short  description  of  such 
species  and  varieties  as  are  in  great  repute  for  every  good 
quality.  Previous  to  making  this  selection,  I  carefully  perused 
Prince's  Pomological  Manual,  Kenrick's  American  Orchard- 
ist,  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden,  and 
Manning's  Descriptive  Catalogue  of  Fruits.  Besides  these  im- 
portant guides,  I  had  the  select  catalogues  of  different  nursery- 
men before  me,  and  have  chosen  such  only  as  have  been  most 


12  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

generally  recommended.  In  doing  this,  I  have  had  difficulties 
to  contend  with,  of  the  nature  of  which  none  but  those  who 
have  duly  considered  the  subject  can  form  any  idea.  The 
facility  with  which  seedling  plants  are  raised,  and  the  paternal 
fondness  with  which  peqple  are  apt  to  regard  their  own  seed- 
lings, have  occasioned  hundreds  of  names  to  appear  in  the 
various  catalogues,  which  tend  not  a  little  to  swell  the  large 
and  increasing  list  of  fruits. 

In  many  instances,  the  English,  French,  Spanish,  and  other 
names,  provisional,  local,  and  barbarous,  are  given  to  the  same 
variety ;  consequently,  some  fruits  appear  in  the  different  cata- 
logues under  all  the  varied  names ;  and  the  patience  and  labor 
necessarily  requisite  for  ascertaining  which  are  really  distinct 
varieties,  and  which  are  most  worthy  of  cultivation,  are  corre- 
spondingly great. 

To  exemplify :  Suppose  from  a  catalogue  of  Pears  the  fol- 
lowing names  should  be  selected  by  a  person  wishing  to  plant 
as  many  varieties  in  his  orchard — namely,  BROWN  BEURRE, 
Beurre  Gris,  Beurre  Rouge,  Beurre  Dore,  Beurre  d'Anjou, 
Beurre  d'Or,  Beurre  d'Ambleuse,  Beurre  d'Amboise,  Poire 
d1  Amboise,  Isambert,  Red  Beurre,  Golden  Beurre,  Beurre  du  Roi, 
WHITE  DOYENNE,  Doyenne  Blanc,  Doyenne,  Beurre  Blanc, 
Bonne-ante,  Saint  Michael,  Carlisle,  Citron  de  Septembre, 
ICaiserbirne,  Poire  a  court  queue,  Poire  de  Limon,  Valencia, 
Poire  de  Neige,  Poire  de  Seigneur,  Poire  Monsieur,  White 
Beurre.  Here  is  a  list  of  twenty-nine  kinds,  as  the  purchaser 
supposes,  but  when  the  trees  produce  their  fruit,  he  finds,  to 
his  great  disappointment  and  mortification,  that  he  has  only 
two  varieties,  namely,  the  Brown  Beurre  and  the  White 
Doyenne. 

In  making  out  the  descriptive  lists,  I  have  generally  adopted 
the  names  given  in  the  catalogues  of  the  most  celebrated  nur- 
serymen, as  a  heading ;  and  have  caused  the  synonymes,  or 
names  by  which  the  same  variety  is  known,  or  has  been  called, 
to  be  printed  in  italics ;  thus,  my  lists  of  about  four  hundred 
varieties  of  the  various  kinds  of  fruit,  will  embrace  what  has 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  13 

been  deemed  by  some  as  different  varieties,  perhaps  to  the 
number  of  nearly  two  thousand. 

In  preparing  the  following  articles,  the  object  has  been  to 
furnish  information  which  would  entertain  as  well  as  instruct 
the  reader.  Besides  the  authorities  quoted,  I  have  gleaned 
from  those  inexhaustible  treasures  to  horticulturists,  Loudon's 
Encyclopaedia  of  Plants,  and  that  of  Gardening ;  but  on  account 
of  the  brevity  necessarily  observed  throughout  this  work,  it 
has  been  found  impracticable  to  give  many  entire  extracts. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  historical  facts  are  generally  collected 
from  these  sources. 


TRAINING    AND    PRUNING   FRUIT-TREES   AND    VINES. 

In  training  and  pruning  fruit-trees  and  vines,  particular  at- 
tention is  required.  To  supply  a  tree  with  a  sufficiency  of 
vegetable  juices,  there  must  necessarily  be  living  bark  and 
wood  in  an  uninterrupted  succession  from  the  root  to  the 
extremities  of  the  branches.  Pruning,  therefore,  is  useful  to 
remedy  any  defect,  as  well  as  to  take  off  superfluous  wood, 
and  prevent  unnecessary  waste  of  the  sap.  Pruning  may  be 
performed  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  according  to  the 
kinds  of  fruit,  which  will  be  shown  under  each  head  as  we 
proceed. 

In  the  spring  or  summer  pruning,  be  careful  not  to  destroy 
the  germs  of  future  fruits ;  but  merely  remove  all  unserviceable 
sprigs.  In  the  winter  season,  make  your  selection  from  the 
wood-shoots  of  the  preceding  year;  and  keep  those  which 
appear  the  most  healthy,  and  cut  away  those  which  seem 
redundant.  Beginners  had  better  prefer  the  spring,  as  the 
buds  will  then  be  a  guide  for  them  to  go  by.  But  this  busi- 
ness must  not  be  delayed  too  late  in  the  season,  as  some  kinds 
of  trees  and  vines  are  apt  to  bleed  from  being  pruned  untime- 
ly. When  the  sap  rises  in  Grape  Vines,  before  the  wound  is 
healed,  bleeding  ensues,  and  it  is  not  easily  stopped.  When 
this  happens,  sear  the  place,  and  cover  it  with  melted  wax,  or 


14  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

with  warm  pitch  spread  upon  a  piece  of  bladder ;  or  peel  off 
the  outside  bark  to  some  distance  from  the  place,  and  then 
press  into  the  pores  of  the  wood  a  composition  of  pounded 
chalk  and  pitch,  mixed  to  the  consistence  of  putty.  Vines 
will  bleed  in  autumn  as  well  as  in  spring,  though  not  so 
copiously.  The  best  preventive  is  timely  or  early  pruning  in 
the  spring,  and  not  pruning  until  the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripe 
in  autumn. 

With  respect  to  the  manner  in  which  vines,  and  some  parti- 
cular kinds  of  trees,  should  be  trained,  opinions  are  at  vari- 
ance. Some  advise  training  the  shoots  in  a  straight  and  direct 
manner,  others  in  a  horizontal  manner,  and  others  again  in  a 
serpentine  form,  etc.  If  vines  be  trained  on  low  walls  or  trel- 
lises, the  horizontal  or  zigzag  manner  of  training  may  be 
adopted.  Horizontal  training  is  that  in  which  from  a  main 
stem  lateral  branches  are  led  out  horizontally  on  each  side. 

It  has  been  remarked,  that  in  order  to  be  a  good  trainer  of 
vines,  a  man  must  have  some  forethought,  and  be  capable  of 
making  his  selection  as  the  plants  shoot.  He  must  predeter- 
mine how  he  shall  prune,  and  where  he  shall  cut  at  the  end  of 
the  season ;  and  so,  as  it  were,  fashion  the  plants  to  his  mind. 
He  has  this  more  effectually  in  his  power,  with  respect  to  the 
vine,  than  fruit-trees  with  fruit,  on  account  of  its  rapid  growth, 

PRUNING    THE    VINE. 

In 'pruning  vines,  cut  generally  two  inches  above  the  bud. 
Some  cut  nearer,  even  as  near  as  half  an  inch,  which  is  apt  to 
weaken  the  shoot  of  next  season,  and  sometimes  to  prevent  its 
vegetating  at  all ;  the  buds  being  very  susceptible  of  injury,  on 
account  of  the  soft  and  spongy  nature  of  the  wood.  In  cut- 
ting out  old  wood,  be  careful  to  cut  in  a  sloping  direction, 
and  to  smoothe  the  edges  of  the  wood,  in  order  to  prevent  its 
being  injured  by  moisture.  The  pruning  being  finished,  let 
the  loose,  shreddy,  outward  rind  on  the  old  wood  be  carefully 
peeled  off,  observing  not  to  injure  the  sound  bark,  and  clear 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


15 


the  trellis  of  branches,  leaves,  and  tendrils.  Let  the  shoots 
and  branches  afterwards  be  regularly  laid  in,  at  the  distance 
above  specified,  particularly  the  young  shoots  that  are  expect- 
ed to  bear  next  season.  As  to  others,  it  is  not  so  material 
how  near  the  young  shoots  be  placed  to  the  old,  even  though 
they  sometimes  cross  them.  Choose  strands  of  fresh  matting, 
or  packthread,  to  tie  with;  and  observe  to  leave  sufficient 
room  for  the  swelling  of  the  shoots  and  branches  next  season. 
Vines  may  be  pruned  too  much  as  well  as  too  little.  There 
is  nothing  gained  by  training  vines  very  high.  A  vine  ten 


Training  a  Yine  Fan-Shaped. 

feet  high  will  be  as  productive  as  one  forty  feet  high.  The 
illustration  herewith  given  will  furnish  an  idea  of  the  manner 
of  cutting  off  the  old  wood,  at  cc,  and  throwing  all  the  sap 
into  two  vertical  canes,  aa.  Or  the  tops  may  be  cut  off  at  66, 
and  the  laterals  trained  horizontally  at  pleasure. 


16  FRUIT-GARDENING. 


PRUNING   FRUIT-TREES. 

By  attending  to  the  proper  training  of  fruit-trees,  every 
advantage  is  promoted ;  and  by  a  judicious  management  in 
other  respects,  wood  may  not  only  be  obtained,  but  preserved 
in  every  part  of  the  tree,  so  that  it  will  bear  fruit  to  the  very 
bole,  which  will  evidently  be  greatly  to  the  credit  of  the  gar- 
dener, the  benefit  of  the  proprietor,  and  equally  conducive  to 
the  beauty  and  welfare  of  the  tree.  While  trees  are  young,  it 
is  necessary  to  lay  a  good  foundation  for  a  supply  of  bearing- 
wood  in  future  years ;  for  when  this  is  neglected,  and  they 
become  naked,  it  is  some  time  before  a  supply  can  be  recover- 
ed. In  shortening  a  branch,  always  take  care  to  cut  in  a 
direction  a  little  sloping ;  and  the  middle  of  all  standard  trees 
should  be  kept  as  open  as  possible.  It  is  requisite  to  have  a 
very  sharp  knife,  that  the  cut  may  not  be  ragged,  but  clean ; 
and  in  the  operation  be  careful  that  the  knife  does  not  slip, 
so  that  another  branch  be  cut  or  damaged. 

The  general  pruning  of  fruit-trees  is  indifferently  performed 
by  many  persons,  at  any  time  from  autumn  to  spring ;  and  it 
may  be  so  done  without  any  great  injury  to  them,  provided 
mild  weather  be  chosen  for  the  purpose,  and  the  wood  be  well 
ripened.  Although  it  may  be  advantageous  to  prune  trees 
early  in  the  winter,  when  the  wood  is  well  ripened,  yet,  when 
the  wood  is  green  and  the  buds  have  not  arrived  at  a  mature 
state,  it  is  requisite  in  such  cases  to  defer  pruning  until  spring ; 
taking  care,  however,  that  it  is  performed  before  the  moving 
of  the  sap.  The  necessity  of  this  arises  from  the  circum- 
stance that  as  the  wood  is  not  ripened  in  autumn,  the  sap  is 
then  in  an  active  state,  and  will  continue  so  until  the  frost 
causes  it  to  become  stagnant ;  and  if  the  shoots  were  shorten- 
ed while  the  sap  was  in  motion,  the  buds  would  be  consider- 
ably injured,  and  the  tree  weakened.  Such  unripe  shoots  are 
also  more  liable  to  suffer  by  the  severity  of  winter ;  and  when 
the  pruning  is  deferred  until  spring,  all  such  parts  as  may 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  17 

have  been  affected  by  the  weather  can  be  removed  to  the 
extent  to  which  the  damage  has  been  sustained.  As  the 
pruning  of  such  unripe  wood  in  the  autumn  would  be  inju- 
rious, so  it  frequently  is  when  it  is  done  during  winter ;  and 
the  more  so  according  to  its  severity  ;  because,  whenever  a 
cut  is  made  on  such  green  wood,  the  frost  generally  affects  it, 
as  the  sap  is  not  so  dense,  nor  the  wood  so  firm,  as  to  be  able 
to  resist  the  intense  cold. 

DIFFERENT   MODES    OF   TRAINING. 

Whatever  method  is  adopted  in  training  trees,  care  should 
be  taken  to  keep  the  two  sides  as  nearly  equal  as  possible ; 
this  may  easily  be  done,  whether  they  are  trained  in  the  fan 
or  horizontal  method.  For  espalier  trees,  the  horizontal 
method  has  many  advantages  over  any  other.  The  small 
compass  within  which  the  trees  are  obliged  to  be  kept, 
requires  such  a  direction  for  the  branches,  in  order  to  make 
them  fruitful ;  and  were  very  high  trellises  formed,  so  as  to 
admit  of  the  trees  being  trained  in  the  fan  method,  such 
would  be  very  objectionable,  by  reason  of  the  shade  they 
would  cause,  and  the  trees  would  also  be  deprived  of  the 
benefit  of  a  warmer  temperature,  which  those  less  elevated 
receive. 

As  some  young  gardeners  may  not  know  what  is  meant  by 
espaliers,  it  may  be  necessary  to  explain  that  espaliers  are 
hedges  of  fruit-trees  which  are  trained  up  regularly  to  a 
frame  or  trellis  of  wood-work ;  they  produce  large  fruit  plen- 
tifully, without  taking  up  much  room,  and  may  be  planted 
in  the  Kitchen-Garden  without  much  inconvenience  to  its 
other  products.  For  espalier  fruit-trees  in  the  open  ground,  a 
trellis  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  may  either  be  formed  of 
common  stakes  or  poles,  or  of  regular  joinery  work,  according 
to  taste  or  fancy. 

Standard  trees  should  be  pruned  low.  An  excellent  mode 
of  pruning  is  to  imitate  the  cherry-tree,  which  sends  a  stem 


18  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

straight  upwards,  with,  boughs  projecting  laterally,  on  every 
side,  at  distances  of  two  or  three  feet  apart.  The  boughs  also 
should  have  limbs  at  suitable  distances  apart.  All  the 
branches  should  not  be  cut  off  the  limbs  for  several  feet  from 
the  body  of  the  tree,  as  many  of  our  apple-orchards  have  been 
pruned.  The-entire  area  occupied  by  the  branches  should  be 
well  filled  up  with  fruit-producing  limbs.  In  order  to  do  this, 
one  must  commence  pruning  trees  when  they  are  young,  and 
prune  a  little  every  season,  as  the  branches  require.  It  is 
decidedly  objectionable  to  allow  trees  of  any  kind  to  grow 
unpruned  for  several  years,  and  then  give  them  a  severe  prun- 
ing. Some  trees  need  but  little  pruning;  while  others  require 
more  or  less  every  year. 

BEST   TOOLS    FOR   PRUNING. 

The  implements  employed  in  pruning,  and  the  manner  .of 
using  them,  are  matters  of  moment.  If  the  operation  is  com- 
menced when  the  tree  is  young,  and  judiciously  followed  up,  a 
good  knife,  a  small  saw,  a  mallet,  and  a  chisel  fixed  on  a  six-foot 
handle,  to  trim  the  tops  and  extremities  of  the  branches,  are  all 
the  tools  that  are  required.  A  large  saw  will  be  occasionally 
wanted ;  but  an  axe  or  hatchet  should  never  be  employed,  as 
they  fracture  the  wood,  bruise  and  tear  the  bark,  and  disfigure 
the  tree. 


BUDDING-  AND  GRAFTING  FRUIT-TREES. 

Budding  and  Grafting,  Lindley  observes,  are  operations  that 
equally  depend  for  their  success  upon  the  property  that  buds 
possess  of  shooting  roots  downward,  and  stems  upward ;  but 
in  these  practices,  the  roots  strike  between  the  bark  and  wood 
of  the  stock,  instead  of  into  the  earth,  and  form  new  layers  of 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  19 

wood,  instead  of  subterranean  fibres.  The  success  of  such 
practices,  however,  depends  upon  other  causes  than  those 
which  influence  the  growth  of  cuttings.  It  is  necessary  that 
an  adhesion  should  take  place  between  the  scion  and  the  stock, 
so  that  when  the  descending  fibres  of  the  buds  shall  have 
fixed  themselves  upon  the  wood  of  the  stock,  they  may  not  be 
liable  to  subsequent  separation.  No  one  can  have  studied  the 
economy  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  without  having  remarked 
that  there  is  a  strong  tendency  to  cohesion  in  bodies  or  parts 
that  are  placed  in  contact  with  each  other. 

To  bud  trees,  let  the  following  method  be  adopted :  Pro- 
cure a  knife  which  has  a  thin  blade ;  the  use  of  the  blade  is  to 
prepare  the  buds,  and  the  handle  is  used  to  raise  the  bark  of 
the  stocks,  so  that  the  buds  can  be  easily  inserted.  Have 
some  good  strong  bass  in  readiness,  and  then  take  some  good 
thrifty  sprigs  from  healthy  trees  of  the  sorts  you  intend  to 
propagate.  When  all  is  ready,  make  a  cut  in  the  bark  of  the 
stock  transversely,  and  from  the  middle  of  this  cut  make 
another  downward,  at  least  two  inches  in  length,  so  that  the 
two  cuts  may  be  in  the  form  of  a  T ;  then  from  one  of  your  sprigs 
proceed  with  expedition  to  take  off  a  bud.  This  is  effected  as 
follows :  Insert  the  knife  a  little  more  than  half  an  inch  below 
the  bud  or  eye,  force  it  into  the  wood,  drawing  it  under  the 
bud,  and  cut  the  piece  off  across  the  shoot ;  then  immediately 
let  that  part  of  the  wood  which  was  cut  off  with  the  bud  be 
separated  from  it,  which  may  be  readily  done  with  the  knife, 
by  placing  the  point  of  it  b'etween  the  bark  and  wood  at  one 
end,  and,  holding  the  bark  in  one  hand,  pull  off  the  woody 
part  with  the  other,  which  will  readily  come  from  the  bark  if 
the  tree  from  which  it  was  taken  be  in  a  vigorous  condition. 
Examine  the  bark,  so  as  to  be  satisfied  that  the  bud  remains 
perfect ;  if  there  is  no  hole  in  it,  let  it  be  immediately  inserted 
into  the  stock,  which  is  done  by  raising  with  the  handle  of 
your  knife  the  bark  of  the  stock  downward  on  each  side  from 
the  crosscut,  and  thrusting  the  bud  in  between  the  bark  and 
the  wood,  applying  it  as  close  as  possible.  As  soon  as  the  bud 


20  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

is  put  into  its  place,  bind  it  securely  with  bass,  beginning  a 
little  below  the  cut  and  proceeding  upward  till  you  are  above 
the  crosscut,  taking  care  to  miss  the  eye  of  the  bud,  just  so 
that  it  may  be  seen  through  the  bandage  of  the  bass.  About 
a  week  or  ten  days  after  the  stocks  have  been  budded,  they 
should  be  examined,  when  such  as  have  united  will  appear 
fresh  and  full,  and  those  that  have  not  taken  will  appear  de- 
cayed. In  the  former  case  the  bandage  may  be  left  off,  and  in 
the  latter  case,  the  stock  may  be  budded  in  another  place,  pro- 
vided the  first  operation  was  done  in  the  month  of  July  or 
early  in  August,  as  these  are  the  two  most  preferable  months 
for  budding  fruit-trees  in  general.  Budding  is,  however,  often 
attended  with  success,  if  done  early  in  September. 

SCALLOP-BUDDING 

is  performed  by  cutting  from  a  small  stock  a  thin  narrow  scal- 
lop of  wood  about  an  inch  in  length,  and  taking  from  a  twig 
a  thin  scallop  of  wood  of  the  same  length ;  this  is  instantly 
applied,  and  fitted  perfectly  at  top  and  bottom,  and  as  nearly 
as  possible  on  its  sides,  and  firmly  bound  with  wet  bass  mat- 
ting. This  may  be  performed  in  the  spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it 
may  be  done  again  in  the  month  of  July.  The  French  prac- 
tise this  mode  on  Roses. 


GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  the  taking  a  shoot  from  one  tree  and  inserting  it 
into  another  in  such  a  manner  that  both  may  unite  closely  and 
become  one  tree.  These  shoots  are  called  scions  or  grafts,  and 
in  the  choice  of  them  and  the  mode  of  preparing  some  de- 
scriptions of  stocks,  the  following  hints  will  be  useful : 

Those  scions  are  best  which  are  taken  from  the  lateral  or 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  21 

horizontal,  rather  than  from  the  strong  perpendicular  shoots. 
The  shoots  of  Apples,  etc.,  should  be  taken  from  healthy  trees 
late  in  autumn,  or  before  the  buds  begin  to  swell  in  the  spring, 
and  buried  half  of  their  length  in  the  ground  or  in  a  cool  and 
dry  cellar,  there  to  remain  until  the  season  of  grafting. 

For  some  descriptions  of  trees  the  stocks  are  headed  down 
near  to  the  ground.  In  nurseries,  Apples  intended  for  stand- 
ards are  generally  grafted  about  nine  inches  high  only,  allow- 
ing them  to  grow  up  standard  high,  and  forming  their  heads 
upon  the  second  year's  shoots.  In  cider  countries,  the  stock 
is  generally  trained  up  standard  high ;  and  when  grown  suffi- 
ciently large  for  the  purpose,  it  is  grafted  at  the  height  intended 
for  the  head  of  the  tree. 

There  are  various  methods  of  grafting,  but  the  following  are 
those  most  generally  practised. 


CLEFT-GRAFTING. 

This  mode  of  grafting  is  generally  practised  on  stocks  of 
from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  may  be  performed  in 
the  following  manner :  Let  the  head  of  the  stock  be  carefully 
sawed  off  where  the  limb  is  free  from  knots,  and  the  end  pared 
smooth.  Then  with  a  thin  knife,  split  down  the  stock  through 
the  centre  to  the  depth  of  about  two  inches,  and  insert  a 
chisel  to*keep  it  open  for  the  reception  of  the  scion,  which 
must  be  prepared  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  with  one  or  two  buds 
in  the  upper  part,  and  inserted  carefully,  so  that  the  inner 
bark  of  the  scion  and  of  the  stock  may  both  exactly  meet. 
Large  stocks  require  two  scions,  one  on  each  side,  and  some- 
times four  are  inserted.  When  done,  tie  them  firmly  together 
with  bass,  and  then  cover  the  grafted  part  with  well-prepared 
clay,  in  an  oval  form,  and  close  it  securely. 

These  directions  apply  particularly  to  small  limbs  or  small 
trees.  Those  stocks  that  will  pinch  the  grafts  sufficiently  tight 
as  soon  as  the  chisel  is  taken  out,  do  not  require  any  binding. 
When  scions  are  set  in  large  stocks,  it  is  sometimes  necessary 


22  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

to  drive  in  a  small  wooden  wedge  to  prevent  the  split  stock 
from  crushing  the  scion.  A  little  caution  must  be  exercised 
on  this  subject,  to  have  the  stock  pinch  sufficiently  tight  to 
hold  the  scions  securely  in  the  desired  position,  else  they  will 
not  live.  And  if  the  scion  be  crushed  by  too  severe  pressure, 
it  cannot  be  expected  to  live. 

* 

SIDE-GRAFTING. 

This  mode  is  sometimes  practised  on  those  parts  of  a  tree 
where  a  limb  is  wanting.  There  are  two  ways  in  which  it 
may  be  performed.  1st.  The  scion  may  be  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  splice-grafting,  and  the  bark  and  wood  on 
the  side  of  the  stock  cut  sloping ;  the  scion  being  then  adjust- 
ed as  carefully  as  possible,  it  must  be  bound  on  and  covered 
with  clay.  2d.  The  scion  being  cut  sloping,  a  crosscut  is  to 
be  made  in  the  side  of  the  tree  on  the  top  of  a  perpendicular 
slit ;  the  bark  of  a  tree  above  the  crosscut  must  be  pared  down 
slanting  to  the  wood,  and  the  bark  raised  as  in  budding ;  the 
scion  being  then  inserted,  it  must  be  bound  fast,  and  covered 
with  clay. 

SPLICE    OR   WHIP-GRAFTING. 

This  mode  is  often  practised  on  small  stocks,  and  it  succeeds 
best  when  the  scion  and  stock  are  of  an  equal  size.  The  scion, 
which  should  consist  of  young  wood  of  the  former  year's 
growth,  may  be  cut  to  the  length  of  about  four  inches.  This 
and  the  stock  are  each  to  be  cut  sloping  for  an  inch  or  more, 
and  tongued.  Tonguing  consists  in  cutting  a  slit  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  slope  of  the  stock  downward,  and  a  corresponding 
slit  in  the  scion  upward ;  both  are  now  to  be  joined,  so  that 
one  of  the  sides,  if  not  both,  shall  perfectly  coincide,  and  then 
securely  bound  with  bass  matting  and  covered  with  grafting- 
clay  or  composition.  As  soon  as  the  scion  and  stock  are  com- 
pletely united,  the  bass  string  may  be  removed. 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


23 


SADDLE-GRAFTING. 

The  celebrated  Mr.  Knight  practised  this  mode  of  grafting 
on  very  small  stocks.  The  upper  part  of  the  stock  is  prepared 
in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  by  two  sloping  cuts,  one  on  each  side. 
The  scion  is  prepared  by  slitting  it  upward,  and  paring  out 
the  middle  part  on  each  side  to  a  point.  When  the  stock  and 
scion  are  of  equal  size,  the  adjustment  may  be  made  perfect ; 
but  if  unequal,  one  side  must  exactly  meet.  The  whole  is 
secured  by  a  string  of  bass  matting,  and  covered  with  compo- 
sition or  clay ;  but  the  string  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  a 
perfect  union  has  taken  place. 


ROOT-GRAFTING. 


24  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

This  operation  is  often  performed  on  Grape-vines,  just  below 
the  level  of  the  surface,  by  the  usual  mode  of  cleft-grafting. 
It  is  also  performed  on  portions  or  pieces  of  root  where  suita- 
ble stocks  are  scarce.  The  illustration  on  page  twenty-three 
represents  the  usual  mode  of  root-grafting.  The  lines  O  O 
represent  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  main  thing  in  all 
kinds  of  grafting,  is  to  made  a  "  close  fit"  between  the  stock 
and  the  scion. 


GRAFTING   BY   APPROACH. 

The  trees  or  shrubs  to  be  grafted  in  this  mode  must  be 
growing  very  near  to  those  which  are  to  furnish  the  grafts. 
The  limbs  or  branches  of  each  tree,  which  are  thus  to  be 
united,  must  be  pared  with  a  long  sloping  cut  of  several 
inches,  nearly  to  the  centre ;  and  the  parts  of  each  tree  thus 
prepared  are  to  be  brought  together,  and  finally  secured  by  a 
bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the  bark  shall  meet  as  nearly  as 
possible.  The  graft  may  then  be  covered  with  clay  or  compo- 
sition ;  and  when  a  complete  union  has  taken  place,  the  trees 
or  shrubs  may  be  separated  with  a  sharp  knife,  by  cutting  off 
below  the  junction. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that,  as  young  grafted  trees  in  the 
nursery  progress  in  growth,  the  lower  side-limbs  should  be 
gradually  shortened,  but  not  suddenly  close-pruned,  as  they  are 
essential  for  a  time  to  strengthen  the  trunks,  and  to  the  up- 
right and  perfect  formation  of  the  tree. 

THE    BEST   TIME    TO    GRAFT. 

The  best  time  to  graft  Apple  and  Pear-trees  is,  when  they 
are  in  blossom.  At  that  time,  sap  flows  most  abundantly, 
wounds  heal  more  readily,  and  the  stock  and  scion  are  far  more 
likely  to  unite  than  when  the  sap  is  not  so  abundant.  I  have 
always  heard  it  remarked  that  Cherry-trees  should  be  grafted 
before  the  buds  begin  to  swell.  But  I  have  always  had  far 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  25 

better  success  with  scions  that  were  put  in  when  the  trees  were 
about  to  blossom,  than  with  the  grafts  that  were  set  very  early 
or  before  the  growing  season  had  commenced.  The  most  im- 
portant consideration  is  to  have  good  grafts.  More  scions  fail 
on  account  of  having  been  injured  by  being  improperly  kept 
than  from  any  other  cause. 

When  beginners  prepare  the  stocks  and  dress  off  the  ends 
of  the  scions  with  a  knife,  the  cut  should  be  made  with  a 
sharp  instrument,  very  true  and  smooth,  and  not  too  sharp- 
pointed  nor  too  blunt,  neither  should  the  end  of  the  scion  be 
too  thin  nor  too  thick.  If  too  thin,  when  the  cleft  stock 
closes  on  it,  the  scion  will  be  crushed  so  that  it  cannot  live. 
If  the  scion  be  too  thick,  the  sharpened  end  will  not  fit  the 
cleft  sufficiently  well  for  the  sap  to  circulate  from  the  stock 
into  the  scion.  Whatever  be  the  form  of  the  scion,  or  the 
shape  of  the  stock,  the  inside  bark  of  each  must  be  placed 
together,  so  that  the  sap  from  the  stock  may  pass  readily  into 
the  scion. 


GRAFTING-CLAY    AND    WAX. 

The  British  Parliament  gave  Mr.  Forsyth  a  valuable  premium, 
for  the  following  important  directions  for  making  a  composi- 
tion for  curing  diseases,  defects,  and  injuries  in  all  kinds  of 
fruit  and  forest  trees,  and  the  method  of  preparing  the  trees, 
and  laying  on  the  composition  : 

Take  one  bushel  of  fresh  cow-dung,  half  a  bushel  of  lime 
rubbish  of  old  buildings  (that  from  the  ceilings  of  rooms  is 
preferable),  half  a  bushel  of  wood-ashes,  and  a  sixteenth  part 
of  a  bushel  of  pit  or  river  sand ;  the  three  last  articles  are  to 
be  sifted  fine  before  they  are  mixed ;  then  work  them  well 
together  with  a  spade,  and  afterwards  with  a  wooden  beater, 
until  the  stuff  is  very  smooth,  like  fine  plaster  used  for  ceilings 
of  rooms. 

The  composition  being  thus  made,  care  must  be  taken  to 
prepare  the  tree  properly  for  its  application,  by  cutting  away 

2 


26  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

all  the  dead,  decayed,  and  injured  part,  till  you  come  at  the 
fresh  sound  wood,  leaving  the  surface  of  the  wood  very  smooth, 
and  rounding  off  the  edges  of  the  bark  with  a  draw-knife  or 
other  instrument.  Then  lay  on  the  plaster  about  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  thick,  all  over  the  part  where  the  wood  or  bark  has 
been  so  cut  away,  finishing  off  the  edges  as  thin  as  possible. 
Then  take  a  quantity  of  dry  powder  of  wood-ashes  mixed  with 
a  sixth  part  of  the  same  quantity  of  the  ashes  of  burnt  bones ; 
put  it  into  a  tin  box  with  holes  in  the  top,  and  shake  the 
powder  on  the  surface  of  the  plaster  till  the  whole  is  covered 
with  it,  letting  it  remain  for  half  an  hour  to  absorb  the  mois- 
ture ;  then  apply  more  powder,  rubbing  it  on  gently  with  the 
hand,  and  repeating  the  application  of  the  powder  till  the 
whole  plaster  becomes  a  dry,  smooth  surface. 

If  any  of  the  composition  be  left  for  a  future  occasion,  it 
should  be  kept  in  a  tub  or  other  vessel,  and  urine  poured  on  it 
so  as  to  cover  the  surface ;  otherwise  the  atmosphere  will  greatly 
injure  the  efficacy  of  the  application.  When  lime-rubbish  of 
old  buildings  cannot  be  easily  got,  take  pounded  chalk  or  com- 
mon lime,  after  having  been  slaked  a  month  at  least.  As  the 
growth  of  the  trees  will  gradually  affect  the  plaster,  by  raising 
up  its  edges  next  the  bark,  care  should  be  taken,  when  that 
happens,  to  rub  it  over  with  the  finger  when  occasion  may 
require  (which  is  best  done  when  moistened  by  rain),  that  the 
plaster  may  be  kept  whole,  to  prevent  the  air  and  wet  pene- 
trating into  the  wound. 

As  the  best  way  of  using  the  composition  is  found,  by  ex- 
perience, to  be  in  a  liquid  state,  it  must  therefore  be  reduced 
to  the  consistence  of  a  pretty  thick  paint,  by  mixing  it  up  with 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  urine  and  soapsuds,  and  laid  on  with  a 
painter's  brush.  The  powder  of  wood-ashes  and  burned 
bones  is  to  be  applied  as  before  directed,  patting  it  down  with 
the  hand. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  27 


GRAFTING-CEMENT. 

Another  way  of  making  grafting-wax  is  to  melt  equal  parts 
of  resin,  beeswax,  and  tallow  together.  If  it  be  so  hard  that 
it  cannot  be  worked  with  the  hands,  melt  it  again  and  add 
more  tallow.  To  make  it  harder,  add  more  resin.  This  will 
be  found  an  excellent  coating  for  wounds  made  by  cutting  off 
limbs  of  trees.  After  a  tree  is  pruned,  melt  the  wax  in  a  me- 
tallic vessel,  but  not  have  it  burning  hot ;  then  apply  it  in  a 
liquid  state  to  the  wounds  with  a  swab  or  paint  brush.  Some 
persons  pour  the  composition  into  cold  water,  and  as  it  hard- 
ens take  it  out  and  work  it  up  with  the  hands  until  it  attains 
a  due  consistence.  It  may  be  spread  on  brown  paper,  which 
being  cut  into  strips  of  suitable  size,  is  quickly  applied,  and 
in  cool  weather  may  be  warmed  by  the  breath,  so  as  to  become 
adhesive. 

Grafting-clay  may  be  made  in  the  following  manner :  Take 
equal  parts  of  fresh  horse  manure,  free  from  litter,  cow  manure, 
and  good  stiff  clay ;  add  to  this  a  portion  of  hair,  and  work  it 
together  in  the  same  manner  as  masons  mix  their  mortar.  It 
should  be  well  beaten  and  incorporated  several  days  before  it 
is  required  to  be  used. 


PROCURING  IMPROVED  VARIETIES  OF  FRUIT. 

In  planting  seed  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  improved 
varieties,  care  should  be  taken  not  only  that  the  seed  be 
selected  from  the  finest  existing  kinds,  but  also  that  the  most 
handsome,  the  largest,  and  the  most  perfectly  ripened  speci- 
mens should  be  those  that  supply  the  seed.  A  seedling  plant 
will  always  partake  more  or  less  of  the  character  of  its  parent, 
the  qualities  of  which  are  concentrated  in  the  embryo,  when 
it  has  arrived  at  full  maturity.  As  this  subject  is  discussed  in 


28  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

another  part  of  this  work,  I  shall  direct  the  reader's  attention 
to  the  operation  of  Cross-Fertilization. 

This  is  effected  by  the  action  of  the  pollen  of  one  plant 
upon  the  stigma  of  another.  The  nature  of  this  action  is 
highly  curious.  Pollen  consists  of  extremely  minute  hollow 
balls  or  bodies  ;  their  cavity  is  filled  with  fluid,  in  which  swim 
particles  of  a  figure  varying  from  spherical  to  oblong,  and  hav- 
ing an  apparently  spontaneous  motion.  The  stigma  is  com- 
posed of  very  lax  tissue,  the  intercellular  passages  of  which 
have  a  greater  diameter  than  the  moving  particles  of  the 
pollen.  When  a  grain  of  pollen  comes  in  contact  with  the 
stigma,  it  bursts,  and  discharges  its  contents  among  the  lax 
tissues  upon  which  it  has  fallen.  The  moving  particles  de- 
scend through  the  tissues  of  the  style,  until  one,  or  sometimes 
more,  of  them  find  their  way,  by  routes  especially  destined  by 
nature  for  this  service,  into  a  little  opening  in  the  integuments 
of  the  ovulum  or  young  seed.  Once  deposited  there,  the  par- 
ticle swells,  increases  gradually  in  size,  separates  into  radicle 
and  cotyledons,  and  finally  becomes  the  embryo, — the  part 
which  is  to  give  birth,  when  the  seed  is  sown,  to  a  new  indi- 
vidual. Such  being  the  mode  in  which  the  pollen  influences 
the  stigma,  and  subsequently  the  seed,  a  practical  consequence 
of  great  importance  necessarily  follows,  viz.  that  in  all  cases 
of  cross-fertilization,  the  new  variety  will  take  chiefly  after  its 
polliniferous  or  male  parent ;  and  that  at  the  same  time  it  will 
acquire  some  of  the  constitutional  peculiarities  of  its  mother. 
Thus  the  male  parent  of  the  Down  ton  Strawberry  was  the  Old 
Black,  the  female  a  kind  of  Scarlet.  In  Coe's  Golden  Drop 
Plum,  the  father  was  the  Yellow  Magnum  Bonum,  the  mother 
the  Green  Gage ;  and  in  the  Elton  Cherry,  the  White  Heart 
was  the  male  parent,  and  the  Graffion  the  female. 

The  limits  within  which  experiments  of  this  kind  must  be 
confined  are,  however,  narrow.  It  seems  that  cross  fertiliza- 
tion will  not  take  place  at  all,  or  very  rarely,  between  different 
species,  unless  these  species  are  nearly  related  to  each  other : 
and  that  the  offspring  of  two  distinct  species  is  itself  sterile,  or 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  29 

if  it  possesses  the  power  of  multiplying  itself  by  seed,  its  pro- 
geny returns  back  to  the  state  of  one  or  other  of  its  parents, 
Hence  it  seldom  or  never  has  happened  that  domesticated 
fruits  have  had  such  an  origin.  We  have  no  varieties  raised 
between  the  Apple  and  the  Pear,  or  the  Plum  and  Cherry,  or 
the  Gooseberry  and  the  Currant.  On  the  other  hand,  new 
varieties  obtained  by  the  intermixture  of  two  preexisting 
varieties  are  not  less  prolific ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  often  more 
so  than  either  of  their  parents :  witness  the  numerous  sorts  of 
Flemish  Pears  which  have  been  raised  by  cross  fertilization 
from  bad  bearers  within  the  last  thirty  years,  and  which  are  the 
most  prolific  trees  with  which  gardeners  are  acquainted.  Wit- 
ness also  Mr.  Knight's  Cherries,  raised  between  the  May  Duke 
and  the  Graffion,  and  the  Coe's  Plum  already  mentioned.  It 
is  therefore  to  the  intermixture  of  the  most  valuable  existing 
varieties  of  fruit  that  gardeners  should  trust  for  the  ameliora- 
tion of  their  stock.  By  this  operation  the  Pears  that  are  in 
eating  in  the  spring  have  been  rendered  as  delicious  and  as 
fertile  as  those  of  the  autumn ;  and  there  is  no  apparent  reason 
why  those  very  early,  but  worthless  sorts,  such  as  the  Muscat 
Robert,  which  usher  in  the  season  of  Pears,  should  not  be 
brought  to  a  similar  state  of  perfection. 

It  is  an  indubitable  fact  that  all  our  fruits,  without  excep- 
tion, have  been  so  much  ameliorated  by  various  circumstances, 
that  they  no  longer  bear  any  resemblance  in  respect  of  quality 
to  their  original.  Who,  for  instance,  would  recognise  the  wild 
parent  of  the  Green  Gage  Plum  in  the  austere  Sloe,  or  that 
of  the  delicious  Pippin  Apples  in  the  worthless  acid  Crab  ? 
Or,  what  resemblance  can  be  traced  between  our  famous  Beurre 
Pears,  whose  flesh  is  so  succulent,  rich,  and  melting,  and  that 
hard,  stony,  astringent  fruit,  which  even  birds  and  animals 
refuse  to  eat  ?  Yet  these  are  undoubted  cases  of  improvement, 
resulting  from  time  and  skill  patiently  and  constantly  in  action. 
But  it  would  be  of  little  service  to  mankind  that  the  quality 
of  any  fruit  should  be  improved,  unless  we  adopt  some  efficient 
and  certain  mode  of"  multiplying  the  individuals  when  ob- 


80  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

tained.     Hence  there  are  two  great  objects  which  the  culti- 
vator should  aim  at,  viz.  Amelioration  and  Propagation. 


LINDLEY'S  MODE  OF  CROSS-FERTILIZATIOK 

Lindley  recommends  the  operation  of  cross-fertilization  to  be 
performed  early  in  the  morning  of  a  dry  day ;  about  sunrise 
is  a  good  time  to  begin,  and  before  the  blossom  is  entirely 
expanded.  The  pollen  being  at  that  time  humid,  is  closely 
attached  to  the  anthers.  The  blossoms  must  be  carefully 
opened  and  the  anthers  extracted  by  delicate  scissors,  care 
being  taken  not  to  wound  the  filaments,  nor  any  other  part 
of  the  flower.  This  being  done,  the  matured  pollen  from 
another  variety  must  be  carefully  placed  on  the  blossom  which 
it  is  intended  to  fertilize,  and  from  which  the  anthers  have 
been  extracted;  and  this  operation  must  be  repeated  twice 
or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the  day.  By  shaking  the  blos- 
som over  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  the  time  when  it  is  perfectly 
matured  will  be  ascertained.  It  is  necessary  to  protect  the 
prepared  blossom  from  bees  and  other  insects  with  thin  book- 
muslin,  or  gauze,  till  a  swelling  is  perceived  in  the  germ. 
When  the  process  has  been  successful,  the  pollen  which  has 
been  placed  on  the  stigma  becomes  so  attached  that  it  cannot 
be  removed  with  a  hair  pencil.  It  changes  form  and  color, 
and  soon  disappears,  and  the  blossom  will  soon  wither  and 
fade.  But  when  the  process  has  been  imperfect,  the  pollen  is 
easily  detached  from  the  stigma,  its  appearance  is  unaltered, 
and  it  remains  visible  with  the  duration  of  the  flower,  which 
will  continue  a  long  time. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  31 


GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS  ABOUT  PRUNING. 

The  GarcTner  at  work,  ere  the  birds  pipe  a  tune, 
Each  fruit-tree  inspects,  then  commences  to  prune; 
The  insects  destroying,  on  branches  or  root, 
That  injure  the  blossom,  or  live  in  the  fruit 

As  the  season  for  pruning  fruit-trees  and  vines  commences 
in  the  various  parts  of  our  country  at  different  periods,  accord- 
ing to  the  climate,  I  would  submit  a  few  general  remarks  on 
the  subject,  with  a  view  to  prepare  the  gardener  for  the  per- 
formance of  the  work  in  a  skilful  manner,  and  at  the  proper 
season ;  for  be  it  remembered  that  untimely  or  injudicious 
pruning  may  produce  injury  instead  of  benefit,  and  in  many 
cases  defeat  the  real  object  of  the  operation. 

Having  given  ample  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
various  species  of  fruit,  I  would  recommend  the  novice  to 
peruse  every  article  before  he  enters  upon  the  work  of  the 
garden.  He  will  there  discover  that  no  single  rule  will  apply 
to  every  kind  of  fruit ;  first,  because  the  mode  of  bearing  is 
different  in  almost  every  distinct  species ;  secondly,  because  the 
sap  rises  earlier  and  continues  longer  in  the  branches  of  some 
species  than  in  others ;  and  thirdly,  because  some  trees,  as  the 
Plum  for  instance,  are  apt  to  gum  if  pruned  too  soon  in  the  sea- 
son, and  the  grape-vine  to  bleed  if  delayed  too  long.  For  the 
above,  and  other  reasons  that  may  be  given,  the  gardener 
should  examine  all  his  fruit-trees  frequently,  with  his  imple- 
ments at  hand ;  and  if  circumstances  will  not  admit  of  a  general 
pruning,  he  may  cut  off  dead  branches,  and  clear  trees  from 
moss  and  canker,  also  search  for  the  nests  of  insects,  and 
destroy  them  while  in  a  torpid  state.  This  will  assist  the 
natural  efforts  of  the  trees  in  casting  off  the  crude  and  undi- 
gested juices,  which,  if  confined  in  them,  will  in  a  short  time 
destroy  them,  or  some  of  their  branches. 

In  pruning  all  descriptions  of  trees,  some  general  rules  may 
be  observed.  In  cutting  out  defective  branches,  prune  close 
to  the  healthy  wood,  and  also  shorten  such  shoots  as  have 


32  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

been  injured  by  the  winter,  to  the  full  extent,  or  even  a  few 
inches  beyond,  where  damage  has  been  sustained. 

The  limbs  of  young  and  thrifty  trees  should  not  be  too  closely 
pruned,  because  this  would  occasion  more  lateral  shoots  to  put 
forth  than  is  beneficial  to  the  tree ;  which,  if  not  rubbed  off  in 
the  summer  while  quite  young,  and  as  it  were  herbaceous,  will 
form  crowded  branches,  which  may  not  yield  good  fruit.  In 
doing  this  disbudding,  however,  care  must  be  taken  to  leave 
shoots  in  a  suitable  direction,  sufficient  for  the  formation  of  an 
open  and  handsome  head  to  the  tree,  according  to  its  kind. 

It  may  be  observed,  further,  that  in  the  event  of  young  trees, 
taken  from  the  nursery,  being  deficient  in  fibrous  roots,  as  is 
sometimes  the  case,  close  pruning  may  be  necessary  to  main- 
tain a  proper  equilibrium  between  the  roots  and  the  head ; 
but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  foliage  is  as  essential  to 
the  maintenance  of  the  roots  as  roots  are  necessary  to  the 
promotion  of  the  growth  of  the  head ;  because  the  secretion 
of  plants  being  formed  in  leaves,  it  follows  that  secretions  can- 
not take  place  if  leaf-buds  are  destroyed. 


INSECTS  AND  DISEASES  TO  WHICH  FRUIT-TREES 
ARE  LIABLE. 

Much  may  be  written  relative  to  the  various  diseases  to 
which  fruit-trees  are  liable,  and  also  to  the  prevention  and 
destruction  of  the  various  kinds  of  reptiles  and  insects  which 
frequently  deprive  us  of  the  first  fruits  of  our  garden.  The 
preventive  operations  are  those  of  the  best  culture.  Autumn 
ploughing,  by  exposing  worms,  grubs,  the  larvte  of  bugs, 
beetles,  etc.,  to  the  intense  frost  of  our  winters,  and  the 
moderate  use  of  salt,  lime,  ashes,  etc.,  are  beneficial.  Insects 
may  be  annoyed,  and  sometimes  their  complete  destruction 
effected,  by  the  use  of  soapsuds,  lye,  tar,  turpentine,  sulphur, 


FRUIT-G  ARD  E  NIN  G. 

pepper,  soot,  decoction  of  elder,  walnut  leaves,  tobacco,  and 
other  bitter  and  acrid  substances ;  but  perhaps  the  most 
effectual  way  of  keeping  some  of  the  most  pernicious  kinds  ot 
insects  under,  is  to  gather  up  such  fruit  as  may  fall  from  the 
trees  before  the  insects  have  an  opportunity  of  escaping  into  the 
earth,  or  to  other  places  of  shelter. 

Where  trees  are  planted  in  a  bad  soil,  or  unfavorable  situa- 
tions, they  often  become  diseased.  When  this  happens,  the 
best  remedy  is  good  pruning,  and  keeping  the  trees  clean  by  a 
free  use  of  soap  and  water.  If  that  will  not  do,  they  may  be 
headed  down,  or  removed  to  a  better  situation.  Barrenness 
and  disease  are  generally  produced  by  the  bad  qualities  of  the 
earth  and  air,  by  a  want  of  water,  or  by  the  inroads  of  insects. 
These  incidents  generally  show  themselves  in  the  early  part  of 
the  year.  Leaves  and  shoots  of  any  color  but  the  natural 
green ;  curled  and  ragged  leaves  ;  branches  in  a  decaying  state ; 
shoots  growing  from  the  roots  instead  of  from  the  stem  or 
trunk ;  the  stem  diseased  in  its  bark ;  the  gum  oozing  from 
various  parts  thereof — are  all  proofs  of  the  existence  of  disease. 
The  peach-tree  is  subject  to  a  disease  called  the  yellows;  and 
the  discolored  leaves  and  feeble  branches  are  often  ascribed  to 
the  worms  which  so  frequently  attack  the  roots.  Where  these 
are  found,  they  may  be  removed  by  a  knife  or  chisel.  But  if 
it  should  appear  that  the  tree  is  diseased,  it  should  be  removed, 
to  prevent  other  trees  from  being  infected. 


WASH  FOR  FRUIT-TREES. 

The  following  compositions  have  been  known  to  protect 
fruit-trees  from  the  attacks  of  numerous  insects,  by  being 
used  as  a  wash  to  the  trees  immediately  after  pruning.  The 
constitution  of  some  trees  will  bear  a  much  stronger  mixture 
of  ingredients  than  others ;  but  the  proportions,  as  hereafter 

2* 


34  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

described,  will  not  be  injurious  to  any,  but  will  be  effectual  in 
the  destruction  of  the  larvae  of  insects. 

For  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Peach-Trees. — To  eight  gallons 
of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap,  two  pounds  of  common 
sulphur,  and  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

For  Apple,  Cherry,  Pear,  and  Plum-Trees. — To  four  gal- 
lons of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap,  two  pounds  of  com- 
mon sulphur,  two  ounces  of  tobacco,  and  one  ounce  of  black 
pepper. 

For  Figs  and  Vines. — To  four  gallons  of  water  add  half  a 
pound  of  soft  soap,  one  pound  of  sulphur,  and  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  black  pepper.  All  these  ingredients  must  be  boiled 
together  for  twenty  minutes  at  least,  and  when  in  a  lukewarm 
state,  applied  to  the  bark  of  the  trees  with  a  suitable  brush. 

For  the  destruction  of  the  Aphis  which  frequently  attacks 
the  Apple,  as  well  as  other  fruit-trees  while  young,  an  appli- 
cation of  diluted  whale-oil  soap  to  the  leaves  and  branches  has 
been  found  very  efficacious.  If  whale-oil  soap  be  applied  too 
freely,  it  may  injure  young  trees  or  bushes,  and  sometimes 
destroy  them. 


CHECKING  THE  RAVAGES  OF  THE  CURCULIO. 

The  most  destructive  enemy  to  our  fruit  is  the  Curculio, 
which  passes  the  winter  in  the  earth  in  a  chrysalis  state,  and 
if  suffered  to  remain  unmolested  by  the  gardener,  will  be  ready 
to  commence  its  attacks  at  about  the  time  the  blossoms  appear 
on  our  fruit-trees.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in  the  Apple,  Pear, 
and  also  all  stone  fruit,  at  a  very  early  stage  of  their  growth, 
which  soon  hatch,  and  small  maggots  are  produced,  which 
exist  in  the  fruit,  causing  it  to  drop  off"  prematurely,  with  the 
little  enemy  within.  If  this  fruit  be  gathered  up,  or  immedi- 
ately devoured  by  hogs,  geese,  or  other  animals,  a  check  may 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  35 

be  put  to  their  ravages  in  succeeding  years ;  but  if  suffered  to 
remain  on  the  ground,  they  will  supply  food  to  myriads  of 
their  destructive  race,  which  may  not  be  so  easily  extirpated. 

The  most  effectual  way  of  preventing  the  operations  of  the 
Curculio  is,  to  spread  sheets  of  cloth  beneath  the  trees  and  jar 
them  off,  by  a  sharp  blow  with  a  mallet  against  the  end  of  a 
large  iron  spike,  or  pin  driven  into  the  body  of  the  tree,  when 
the  insects  will  fall  from  the  trees  on  the  sheets,  and  may  be 
turned  into  a  vessel  of  hot  water  and  destroyed. 


THE  CANKER-WORM. 

The  canker-worm  is  another  enemy  to  our  fruits,  for  the 
destruction  of  which  many  experiments  have  been  tried. 
Some  apply  bandages  around  the  body  of  the  tree,  smeared 
over  with  tar  or  ointment,  to  annoy  or  entrap  the  females  in 
their  ascent  to  the  tree ;  but  as  these  tormentors  are  frequently 
on  the  move  from  November  to  the  end  of  June,  this  must  be 
a  very  tedious  as  well  as  uncertain  process.  As  this  insect  is 
supposed  to  exist  within  four  feet  of  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and 
not  more  than  three  or  four  inches  from  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
good  culture,  and  a  moderate  use  of  lime,  ashes,  or  any  other 
pernicious  ingredient,  is  the  most  likely  way  to  destroy  them. 
Every  worm  should  be  destroyed,  whenever  they  appear,  by 
crushing,  when  they  are  not  so  numerous  as  to  render  it  im- 
practicable. 


36  FRUrr-GARDEXTN'G. 


THE  BARK-LOUSE. 

The  bark-louse  is  another  pernicious  insect  They  resemble 
blisters,  and  are  so  near  the  color  of  the  bark  as  to  be  imper- 
ceptible. They  often  prove  fatal  to  the  Apple-tree,  by  pre- 
venting the  circulation  of  the  sap.  These  insects  may  be  con- 
quered by  washing  the  trees  with  soapsuds,  tobacco-water, 
lime-water,  or  a  wash  may  be  made  of  soapy  water,  salt,  and 
lime,  thickened  to  the  consistency  of  cream  or  paint,  with 
sifted  sand  or  clay,  which  may  be  applied  with  a  brush  to  the 
trunk  and  limbs  of  the  trees  in  May  or  early  in  June,  and  the 
cracks  in  the  bark  should  be  completely  covered. 


THE  APPLE-TREE  BORER. 

The  Apple-tree  borer  is  said  to  deposit  its  eggs  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  worms  are  often  to  be  found  in  the 
spring  of  the  year  by  digging  round  the  tree  and  clearing 
away  the  earth  to  the  roots,  and  may  be  taken  out  with  a 
knife  or  gouge,  and  destroyed.  After  the  worms  are  removed 
the  wounds  should  be  covered  over  with  grafting-clay  and 
wood-ashes  mixed,  and  the  earth  then  returned  to  the  roots  of 
the  tree.  Some  use  bricklayers'  mortar  early  in  the  spring 
around  the  base  of  the  tree,  so  as  to  cover  the  part  where  the 
deposit  is  made,  and  prevent  their  attacks. 

There  is  no  effectual  way  of  preventing  the  borer  working  in 
trees,  to  a  certain  extent  But>  by  examining  the  trees  every 
week,  the  borers  may  be  cut  out  before  they  have  entered  the 
wood  beyond  the  reach  of  a  penknife.  Young  trees  that  are 
only  a  few  years  old  are  far  more  liable  to  be  destroyed  by  the 
borer  than  old  trees  having  a  thick,  hard,  and  tough  bark. 
Borers  like  a  tender  bark  to  work  in. 


FRUIT-GARDE  XING.  37 


VALUE  OF  WOOD-ASHES  FOR  FRUIT-TREES. 

If  all  agriculturists  and  horticulturists  were  to  offer  an  in- 
ducement to  the  inhabitants  of  large  cities  to  save  their 
ashes  in  a  dry  state,  they  would  be  supplied  not  only  with  a 
valuable  manure,  but  an  antidote  for  many  kinds  of  insects ; 
and  our  citizens  would  be  at  less  risk  from  fire,  by  having  a 
brick  vault  on  their  premises  for  safely  keeping  them.  In 
England,  a  private  dwelling  is  not  considered  complete  with- 
out an  ash-vault ;  and  a  good  farmer  would  dispense  with  his 
barn  rather  than  be  destitute  of  an  ash-house.  I  have  known 
farmers  to  supply  the  cottagers  with  as  much  peat  as  they 
could  burn,  on  condition  of  their  saving  them  the  ashes ;  and 
there  are  some  that  will  keep  men  under  pay  throughout 
the  year  burning  peat  for  the  same  purpose ;  and  anything 
that  has  passed  the  fire  is  so  valuable,  that  a  chimney-sweep 
will  frequently  clean  chimneys  for  the  sake  of  the  soot,  which 
is  conveyed  miles  into  the  country,  and  sold  at  a  price  suffi- 
cient to  reward  the  collectors,  besides  paying  all  expenses ; 
even  the  housekeepers'  ashes  in  cities  is  a  marketable  article 
at  all  times,  bringing  from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  per 
bushel  when  kept  dry  and  clean ;  and  a  guinea  a  load  was 
formerly  the  common  price  in  the  villages  of  Berkshire  and 
Hampshire. 

While  on  this  subject,  I  would  urge  the  importance  of  a  spring 
dressing  of  ashes.  If  cultivators  were  to  prepare  turfs  from 
tanners'  bark,  peat-earth,  coal-dust  mixed  with  clay,  cow-dung, 
etc.,  and  get  them  dried  in  the  summer  season,  these,  by  being 
preserved  through  the  winter,  may  be  burned  around  fruit- 
orchards  while  the  trees  are  in  blossom  ;  and  if  the  fires  are  pro- 
perly managed,  a  smoke  may  be  kept  up  by  heaping  on  damp 
litter  every  night ;  this  will  prove  pernicious  to  such  insects  as 
may  reside  in  the  trees,  and  the  ashes  being  spread  on  the  ground, 
will  serve  as  a  means  of  destruction  to  others.  An  orchard 
thus  managed  every  year,  will  need  no  other  manure.  The 


38  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

smoking  should  be  effected  first  on  one  side  of  the  plantation, 
and  afterwards  on  the  other,  or  heaps  may  be  prepared  in 
different  parts  of  the  orchard,  and  fire  applied  according  as  the 
wind  may  serve  to  carry  the  smoke  where  it  is  most  necessary. 
I  know  a  gardener  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  York  who 
saved  his  Plums  and  Nectarines  by  burning  salt  hay,  after  hav- 
ing been  used  as  a  covering  for  his  Spinach  ;  and  I  have  no 
hesitation  in  recommending  it  as  an  excellent  remedy  for  pro- 
tecting fruit-trees  from  insects,  especially  if  some  coarse  tobacco 
could  be  procured  to  add  to  it.  The  damper  the  materials  are, 
in  moderation,  the  more  smoke  they  will  create  ;  and  if  a  little 
tar,  pitch,  sulphur,  or  other  pernicious  combustible  be  sprinkled 
among  them,  it  will  be  beneficial. 

Now  I  would  ask — How  is  it  that  ashes  are  not  as  valuable  to 
the  farmers  here  as  they  are  in  Europe  ?  The  extreme  heat  of 
the  summer  must  certainly  engender  insects  in  equal,  if  not 
greater  proportions ;  and  as  respects  manure,  it  must  be  scarcer 
in  some  parts  of  this  extensive  country  than  it  is  in  the  densely 
peopled  countries  of  Europe.  Perhaps  some  may  answer,  that 
ashes  are  already  used  by  our  cultivators  to  a  considerable 
extent ;  but  I  would  remind  such,  that  from  the  circumstance  of 
their  being  mixed  up  with  other  manures,  and  exposed  to  all 
sorts  of  weather  (as  in  our  city),  they  lose  their  virtue,  so  that 
a  load  may  not  be  worth  more  than  a  bushel  would  be,  if  kept 
dry  and  clean. 


THE  SITUATION  OF  AN  ORCHARD  AND  THE  SOIL. 

The  situation  of  an  Orchard  or  Fruit-Garden  should  be  one 
that  has  the  advantage  of  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and  is  ex- 
posed to  the  south,  with  a  slight  inclination  to  the  east  and 
south-west.  When  the  situation  is  low  and  close,  the  trees  are 
very  liable  to  become  mossy,  which  always  injures  them,  by 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  39 

closing  up  the  pores  of  the  wood ;  they  are  also  more  liable  to 
be  affected  by  blight.  Although  having  an  orchard  closely 
pent  up  by  trees,  etc.,  is  injurious,  nevertheless  a  screen  of 
forest-trees,  at  such  a  distance  from  the  fruit-trees  as  that  the 
latter  will  not  be  shaded  by  them,  is  of  very  great  service  in 
protecting  the  trees  in  spring  from  severe  cold  winds. 

A  good  strong  loamy  soil,  not  too  retentive  of  moisture,  to 
the  depth  of  thirty  inches,  or  three  feet,  is  most  suitable  for  an 
orchard.  Great  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  sub-stratum,  as 
the  ground  must  be  well  drained ;  for  if  the  top  soil  be  ever  so 
good,  and  the  bottom  wet,  it  is  very  rarely  the  case  that  the 
trees  prosper  many  years ;  they  soon  begin  to  be  diseased  and 
go  to  decay.  As  it  is  so  indispensably  necessary  to  the  suc- 
cess of  fruit-trees  that  the  bottom  should  be  dry,  if  it  is  not 
naturally  so,  it  must  be  made  so  by  judicious  draining. 


DRAINING  ORCHARDS. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  bottom  dry  by  draining, 
it  must  be  done  some  time  before  the  trees  are  planted.  In 
performing  this  work  the  ground  must  be  trenched,  and  when 
the  trench  is  open,  stone  or  brick-bats,  etc.,  must  be  laid  over 
the  bottom  to  the  thickness  of  six  inches,  a  little  coal-ashes  or 
small  gravel  must  be  sprinkled  over  the  top  of  the  stones,  etc., 
and  then  the  surface  gently  rolled.  Drains  may  also  be  made 
in  different  directions,  so  that  any  excess  of  moisture  can  be 
taken  entirely  away  from  the  ground. 

If  ditches  be  made  between  the  rows  of  trees  three  feet  deep, 
and  tiles  laid  in  them,  and  the  hard  subsoil  returned  on  the 
tiles,  and  trod  down  well,  as  it  is  shovelled  in  the  ditch,  the 
roots  of  trees  will  not  be  very  likely  to  obstruct  the  water 
passages.  Such  drains  are  better  than  those  filled  with  stone, 
or  any  other  material. 


40  FRUIT-GARDENING. 


IMPROVING  SOILS  FOR  FRUIT-TREES. 

It  is  well  known  to  most  cultivators  that  exposure  of  soils 
to  the  atmosphere  greatly  improves  them,  as  is  experienced  by 
ridging  and  trenching.  Where  the  soil  is  stiff  and  stubborn, 
small  gravel,  sand,  coal-ashes,  lime,  light  animal  and  vegetable 
manure,  and  other  light  composts,  are  very  appropriate  sub- 
stances to  be  applied,  and  will,  if  carefully  managed  and  well 
worked  into  the  ground,  soon  bring  it  into  a  proper  condition 
for  most  purposes. 

Previous  to  laying  out  an  orchard  or  fruit-garden,  the  soil 
should  be  manured  and  pulverized  to  a  great  depth.  It  should 
be  made  sweet,  that  the  nutriment  which  the  roots  receive 
may  be  wholesome ;  free,  that  they  may  be  at  full  liberty  to 
range  in  quest  of  it ;  and  rich,  that  there  may  be  no  defect  in 
food. 

If  orchards  are  made  from  meadows  or  pasture  lands,  the 
ground  should  be  improved  as  much  as  possible  by  manuring, 
trenching,  ploughing,  etc?.  If  this  is  not  done  to  its  full  extent, 
it  should  be  done  in  strips  of  at  least  six  feet  in  width  along 
where  the  fruit-trees  are  to  be  planted,  and  at  the  time  of 
planting  let  the  holes  be  dug  somewhat  larger  than  is  sufficient 
to  admit  the  roots  in  their  natural  position,  and  of  sufficient 
depth  to  allow  of  a  foot  of  rich  and  well-pulverized  mould  to 
be  thrown  in  before  the  trees  are  planted. 


HOW  TO  TRANSPLANT  TREES. 

In  transplanting  trees,  they  should  not  be  placed  more  than 
an  inch  or  two  deeper  than  they  were  in  the  nursery-bed,  and 
the  earth  intended  for  filling  in  should  be  enriched  and  well 
pulverized  by  mixing  in  some  good  old  manure ;  and  if  any 


FEUIT-GARDENIXG.  41 

leaves,  decayed  brush,  rotten  wood,  potato  tops,  or  other  refuse 
of  a  farm  are  attainable,  let  such  be  used  around  the  trees  in 
filling,  taking  care  that  the  best  pulverized  mould  is  admitted 
among  the  fine  roots.  The  trees  in  planting  should  be  kept  at 
ease,  and  several  times  shaken,  so  as  to  cause  an  equal  distri- 
bution of  the  finer  particles  of  earth  to  be  connected  with  the 
small  fibres  of  the  roots ;  and  when  completely  levelled,  let  the 
ground  be  well  trodden  down  and  moderately  watered,  which 
should  be  repeated  occasionally  after  spring  planting,  if  the 
weather  should  prove  dry. 

In  transplanting  trees,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  collar, 
or  that  part  from  which  emanate  the  main  roots,  be  not 
inserted  too  deep  in  the  soil,  as  this  injures  the  bark,  and 
consequently  impedes  the  natural  circulation  of  the  juices.  A 
medium-sized  tree  may  be  planted  one  inch  deeper  than  it  was 
in  the  nursery-bed,  and  the  largest  should  not  exceed  two  or 
three  inches. 

Newly-planted  trees  should  be  watered  in  dry,  hot  weather ; 
an  occasional  hoeing  around  them  will  also  be  beneficial ;  but 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots. 

As  some  difference  of  opinion  exists  among  practical  men  as 
to  the  best  time  for  planting  fruit-trees,  the  following  extract 
from  Mr.  Prince's  Treatise  on  Horticulture  is  submitted : 


TRANSPLANTING  IN  SPRING  vs.  AUTUMN. 

Spring  is  the  season  when  we  find  the  most  pleasure  in 
making  our  rural  improvements,  and  from  this  circumstance 
probably  it  has  become  the  general  season  for  planting  trees ; 
but  experience  has  proved  autumn-planting  to  be  the  most 
successful,  especially  in  those  parts  of  the  United  States  which 
are  subject  to  droughts,  as  trees  planted  in  autumn  suffer  little 
or  none  from  drought,  when  those  set  out  in  spring  often  perish 
in  consequence  of  it.  Notwithstanding,  with  regard  to  those 
fruits  that  have  been  originally  brought  from  warmer  climates, 


42  FRUIT-GAKDENINCJ. 

such  as  the  Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Almond,  which  are 
natives  of  Persia,  Armenia,  etc.,  it  is  necessary  for  us  to  consult 
the  operations  of  climate  also ;  and,  from  a  consideration  of 
those  attendant  circumstances,  I  have  come  to  the  following 
conclusions :  In  localities  south  of  New  York,  autumn  planting 
is  preferable  only  for  the  Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  Cherry,  Quince, 
and  all  other  trees  of  northern  latitude ;  whereas,  the  spring  is 
to  be  preferred  for  the  Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Almond, 
which,  for  the  reasons  before  stated,  might,  during  severe 
winters,  suffer  from  the  intensity  of  the  frosts.  Still  I  do  not 
mean  to  assert  that  trees  of  those  kinds  are  certain  to  be 
injured  by  the  winter,  as  in  very  many  seasons  they  are  not  in 
the  least  affected.  Many  gentlemen,  however,  of  excellent 
judgment,  make  their  plantations  in  the  autumn,  which  only 
serves  to  prove  that  even  in  the  most  intelligent  minds  a 
diversity  of  opinion  exists. 


HEELING-IN  TREES  AND  PROTECTING  THEIR 
ROOTS. 

As  soon  as  the  trees  arrive  at  the  place  where  they  are  to 
be  planted,  let  a  trench  be  dug  in  cultivated  ground,  the 
bundles  unpacked,  the  roots  well  wetted,  and  immediately 
covered  with  earth  in  the  trench,  observing  to  make  the  earth 
fine  that  is  spread  over  them,  so  as  not  to  leave  vacancies  for 
the  admission  of  air  to  dry  the  roots,  it  having  been  found  by 
experience  that  the  thriftiness  of  trees  the  first  year  after  trans- 
planting depends  much  on  the  fine  fibres  of  the  roots  being 
kept  moist,  and  not  suffered  to  dry  from  the  time  they  are 
taken  up  until  they  are  replanted.  Their  increase,  therefore, 
must  depend  principally  on  the  subsequent  management  on 
their  arrival  at  the  place  of  destination;  for  if,  when  the 
bundles  are  unpacked,  the  trees  are  carelessly  exposed  to 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  43 

drying  winds,  the  young  fibres  of  the  roots  must  perish,  and 
the  trees,  if  they  live  at  all,  cannot  thrive  the  first  season,  as 
they  can  receive  little  or  no  nourishment  until  these  fibres  are 
replaced. 

When  trees  are  carried  from  the  nursery  to  the  orchard,  if 
they  are  out  of  the  ground  in  the  wind  and  sunshine  half  an 
hour,  the  roots  should  be  protected.  Otherwise,  all  the  small 
ones  will  lose  their  vitality.  When  trees  or  vines  are  carried 
only  a  few  miles,  and  are  out  of  the  ground  only  one  hour,  the 
roots  should  be  dipped  in  thin  mud  or  clay  to  protect  them 
from  drying  winds. 


The  accompanying  illustration  is  a  fair  representation  of  the 
roots  of  a  fruit-tree  before  the  roots  have  been  disturbed. 
When  trees  are  dug  up  in  the  usual  manner,  the  roots  are  all 
cut  off,  as  represented  by  the  dotted  lines  b  6,  which  is  suffi- 
cient to  destroy  the  vitality  of  any  tree.  It  is  highly  import- 
ant to  dig  up  the  entire  roots,  if  possible,  when  trees  are 
removed. 

The  accompanying  illustrations  of  trees  represent  the 
appearance  of  trees  before  and  after  the  tops  have  been  pruned, 
at  the  time  of  transplanting.  It  is  always  better  to  remove  a 


44 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


good  proportion  of  the  branches,  when  most  of  the  roots  are 
left  in  the  ground.     If  all  the  top  be  left  on,  and  most  of  the 


X 


roots  cut  off,  the  tree  will  not  thrive  so  well;  and  it  is  far 
more  liable  to  die. 


KEEPING  THE  SOIL  CLEAN. 

The  ground  where  trees  are  planted  must  be  kept  cultivated, 
as  young  trees  will  not  thrive  if  the  grass  be  permitted  to  form 
a  sod  around  them ;  and  if  it  should  be  necessary  to  plant  them 
in  grass  grounds,  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  earth  mellow 
and  free  from  grass  for  three  or  four  feet  distant  around  them ; 
and  every  autumn  some  well-rotted  manure  should  be  dug  in 
around  each  tree ;  and  every  spring  the  bodies  of  the  Apple, 
Pear,  Plum,  and  Cherry-trees,  and  others  that  it  is  particularly 
desirable  to  promote  the  growth  of,  should  be  brushed  over 
with  common  soft  soap,  undiluted  with  water.  This  treatment 
will  give  a  thriftiness  to  the  trees  surpassing  the  expectation  of 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  45 

any  one  who  has  not  witnessed  its  effect.  Should  the  first 
season  after  transplanting  prove  dry,  regular  watering  will  be 
necessary,  as  from  neglect  of  proper  attention  in  this  respect 
many  lose  a  large  portion  of  their  trees  during  a  drought. 


PLANTING  IN  PROTECTED  SITUATIONS. 

Where  there  is  a  great  extent  of  close  fencing  or  wall  it  is 
advisable  to  plant  trees  of  the  same  kind  against  different 
aspects.  Such  as  one  or  two  May  Duke  Cherries  against  a 
southern  aspect,  which  will  ripen  earliest ;  next,  against  either 
an  eastern  or  western  ;  and  lastly,  against  a  northern  aspect ;  by 
observing  this  method  with  Dwarf  Cherries,  Plums,  Goose- 
berries, Currants,  etc.,  the  fruit  will  ripen  in  succession,  and  thus 
a  supply  is  considerably  lengthened.  The  early  blooming  fruit- 
trees  will  sometimes  need  protection  in  warm  aspects;  for 
which  arrangements  may  be  made  by  keeping  awning,  matting, 
netting,  etc.,  at  hand,  to  shelter  them  in  threatening  weather, 
or  to  screen  them  from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun  after  a  frosty 
night.  This,  with  a  sprinkling  of  water,  as  the  air  gets  warm, 
will  often  prevent  any  serious  consequences  from  slight  frost. 


INGREDIENTS  FOR  A  GOOD  COMPOST. 

As  all  land  possesses  inorganic  matter,  which  contains  more 
or  less  of  the  elements  comprised  in  the  above  remedies,  and  as 
some  land  contains  more  of  one  element  than  another,  a  judi- 
cious choice  may  be  made  from  the  above  list,  with  a  view  to 
suit  all  the  various  kinds  of  soil ;  thus,  in  locations  open  to  sea- 
breezes,  which  replenish  the  earth  with  salt,  that  article  may  be 
dispensed  with,  and  another  substituted ;  and  on  land  which  is 


46  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

not  susceptible  of  being  improved  by  lime,  perhaps  the  salt 
may  be  beneficial ;  but  it  is  presumed  that  in  most  cases  a  com- 
post made  of  all,  or  as  many  of  the  different  articles  as  are 
attainable,  would  produce  a  lasting  benefit  to  land  in  general, 
by  sowing,  say  at  the  rate  of  a  bushel  per  acre,  once  a  week,  at 
those  seasons  of  the  year  when  it  will  avail  most  in  the  destruc- 
tion of  reptiles  and  insects ;  and  as  the  primary  object  of  using 
the  compost  is  to  prevent  our  fruits  from  being  destroyed,  it 
would  prove  most  effectual  if  sown  out  of  a  wagon,  from  which, 
in  passing  between  the  trees,  the  leaves  could  be  dusted. 

The  ingredients  alluded  to  consist  of  ashes,  charcoal-dust, 
plaster-of-Paris,  tobacco-dust,  lime,  salt,  soot,  pepper,  potash, 
saltpetre,  snuff,  and  sulphur.  The  proportions  may  be  as 
follows :  Of  the  first  four  articles,  half  a  bushel  of  each ;  of  the 
next  three,  a  peck  of  each ;  and  of  the  last  five,  say  one  pound 
of  each ;  which  will  make  together  three  bushels  of  compost. 


SCRAPING  THE  BODIES  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 

To  destroy  insects  on  the  fruit-trees,  and  prevent  them  from 
creeping  up  and  breeding  on  them,  do  as  follows : — 

Take  a  strong  knife  with  a  sharp  point,  and  a  sharp  hook- 
like  iron  made  for  the  purpose  ;  with  these  scrape  clean  off  all 
the  moss  and  outside  rough  bark,  and  with  the  knife  pick  out 
or  cut  away  the  cankered  parts  of  the  bark  and  wood,  in  such 
a  slanting  manner  that  water  cannot  lodge  in  the  sides  of  the 
stem  of  the  trees.  Having  cleared  the  trees  in  this  way,  make 
np  a  mixture  of  lime,  soot,  and  sulphur ;  put  these  ingredients 
into  a  pot  or  tub,  pour  boiling  water  upon  them,  and  with  a 
stick  stir  and  mix  them  well  together.  When  this  strong 
mixture  becomes  cold,  and  about  the  thickness  of  whitewash, 
dip  a  brush  in  the  mixture,  and  apply  it  to  the  stems  and  large 
branches  of  the  trees,  dabbing  it  well  into  the  hollow  parts  of 
the  bark. 


FRUIT-  GARDENING.  47 

It  will  be  found  eminently  more  efficacious  to  apply  such 
liquid  as  hot  as  practicable.  If  it  be  boiling  hot,  by  the  time  it 
is  spread  out  on  the  cold  bark  of  the  tree  it  will  be  so  cool  that 
the  bark  will  receive  no  injury  in  consequence  of  the  liquid 
being  hot.  Such  hot  liquid  will  destroy  the  eggs  of  insects 
much  quicker  than  when  it  is  cold. — S.  E.  TODD. 


APPLE. 
POMMIER.     Pyrus  mains. 

And  now  we've  arrived  near  the  close  of  the  year, 
Winter  Apples  and  Cranberries  bring  up  the  rear, 
All  are  good  of  their  kind,  and  we  freely  declare, 
Not  one  of  the  fruits  we  would  willingly  spare. 

The  Apple  being  so  closely  connected  with  our  wants  and 
enjoyments,  is  entitled  to  the  first  notice  in  the  catalogue  of 
our  fruits.  The  Apple-Orchard  is,  in  truth,  the  vineyard  of  our 
country ;  and  the  delicious  beverage  that  can  be  obtained  from 
some  of  the  varieties  of  this  excellent  fruit  being  calculated  to 
cheer  the  invalid,  as  well  as  to  strengthen  the  healthy,  entitles 
it  to  high  consideration.  It  is  one  of  our  oldest  and  best  fruits, 
and  has  become  completely  naturalized  to  our  soil.  None  can 
be  brought  to  so  high  a  degree  of  perfection  with  so  little 
trouble ;  and  of  no  other  are  there  so  many  excellent  varieties 
in  general  cultivation,  calculated  for  almost  every  soil,  situation, 
and  climate,  which  our  country  affords. 

AGE    OF    APPLE-TREES. 

The  Apple-tree  is  supposed  by  some  to  attain  a  great  age. 
Haller  mentions  some  trees  in  Herefordshire,  England,  that 
were  a  thousand  years  old,  and  were  still  highly  prolific ;  but 
Knight  considers  two  hundred  years  as  the  ordinary  duration 
of  a  healthy  tree,  grafted  on  a  crab-stock,  and  planted  in  a 


48  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

strong,  tenacious  soil.  Speechly  mentions  a  tree  in  an  orchard 
at  Burtonjoice,  near  Nottingham,  about  sixty  years  old,  with 
branches  extending  from  seven  to  nine  yards  round  the  bole, 
which  in  some  seasons  produced  upwards  of  a  hundred  bushels 
of  apples. 

The  Romans  had  only  twenty-two  varieties  in  Pliny's  time. 
There  are  upwards  of  fifteen  hundred  now  cultivated  in  the 
garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London,  under  name. 
The  catalogue  of  the  Linnsean  Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing  con- 
tains about  four  hundred ;  and  one  of  our  enterprising  horticul- 
turists, Mr.  William  Coxe,  of  Burlington,  New  Jersey,  enume- 
rated one  hundred  and  thirty-three  kinds  cultivated  in  the 
United  States  some  years  ago.  They  are  usually  divided  into 
dessert,  baking,  and  cider  fruits.  The  first,  highly  flavored ; 
the  second,  such  as  fall,  or  become  mellow  in  baking  or  boiling ; 
and  the  third,  austere,  and  generally  fruit  of  small  size.  Besides 
this  division,  Apples  are  classed  as  pippins  or  seedlings,  pear- 
mains  or  somewhat  pear-shaped  fruits,  rennets  or  queen-specked 
fruits,  calviles  or  white-skinned  fruits,  russets  or  brown  fruits,  and 
some  are  denominated  burknots. 

The  Apple  may  be  propagated  by  layers ;  and  many  sorts  by 
cuttings  and  budding;  but  the  usual  mode  is  by  grafting  on 
seedling  stocks  of  two  or  three  years'  growth,  and  for  dwarfing, 
on  stocks  of  the  Quince  or  Paradise  Apple.  All  the  principal 
varieties  are  cultivated  as  standards  in  the  orchard,  and  should 
be  planted  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from  each  other,  or  from 
any  other  spreading  trees,  in  order  that  the  sun  and  air  may 
have  their  due  influence  in  maturing  the  fruit. 

Many  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  be  introduced  into  the  Kitchen- 
Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers,  or  dwarf  standards.  An  Apple- 
Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  trees  are  two 
years  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  trees  from  young  stocks  will 
not  come  into  full  bearing  until  ten  or  twelve  years  old,  they 
will  bear  removing  with  care  at  any  time  within  that  period. 

Old  Apple-trees  may  be-  grafted  with  superior  varieties  by 
being  headed  down  to  standard  height.  Most  commonly,  in 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  49 

very  old  subjects,  the  branches  only  are  cut  within  a  foot  or  two 
of  the  trunk,  and  then  grafted  in  the  crown  or  cleft  manner.  In 
all  the  varieties  of  the  common  Apple,  the  mode  of  bearing  is 
upon  small  terminal  and  lateral  spurs,  or  short  robust  shoots, 
from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  long,  which  spring  from  the 
younger  branches  of  two  or  more  years'  growth,  appearing  at 
first  at  the  extremity,  and  extending  gradually  to  the  side. 
The  same  bearing-branches  and  fruit-spurs  continue  many  yean 
fruitful. 

PRUNING. 

As,  from  the  mode  of  bearing,  Apple-trees  do  not  admit  of 
shortening  the  general  bearers,  it  should  only  be  practised  in 
extraordinary  cases.  If  trees  have  not  the  most  desirable  form 
when  three  or  four  years  old,  they  should  be  judiciously  pruned 
to  promote  regular  spreading  branches.  In  annual  pruning, 
the  main  branches  should  not  be  cut,  unless  in  cases  of  decay ; 
but  all  superfluous  cross  branches  and  dead  wood  should  be 
taken  out,  and  the  suckers  removed.  Espaliers  require  a 
summer  and  winter  pruning. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES. 

SUMMER   FRUIT. 

AMERICAN  SUMMER  PEARMAIN,  Early  Summer  Pearmain. 
This  apple  is  of  medium  size  and  oblong  form ;  its  color 
bright  red  on  the  sunny  side,  and  on  the  opposite  side  yellow, 
streaked  or  blotched  with  red  ;  the  flesh  is  very  juicy,  tender, 
fine  flavored,  and  excellent.  It  ripens  early  in  August,  and  is 
good  either  for  the  dessert  or  for  cooking.  Tree  a  good 
bearer. 

BENONI.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  form  round  and  regular ; 

3 


50  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

the  flesh  yellow,  high-flavored,  and  excellent ;  it  ripens  in  July 
and  August.  "  The  tree  bears  well,"  says  Mr.  Manning,  "  and 
should  be  found  in  every  good  collection." 

EARLY  BOUGH,  Sweet  Bough.  The  size  of  this  fruit  varies 
from  medium  to  large  ;  its  color  pale  yellow ;  its  form  oblong  ; 
its  skin  smooth;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  excellent. 
Ripens  early  in  August  in  some  localities. 

EARLY  CROFTON,  or  Irish  Peach  Apple.  An  Irish  apple,  of 
the  middle  size  and  flattish  shape ;  of  an  olive  green  color, 
much  variegated  with  red ;  has  a  rich  saccharine  flavor ;  is 
much  esteemed  for  the  dessert,  and  is  excellent  also  as  a  sauce 
apple.  Ripens  in  August.  The  tree  grows  well,  and  is  not 
apt  to  canker. 

EARLY  HARVEST,  Prince's  Yellow  Harvest,  Pomme  d'ete, 
July  Pippin.  A  very  early  apple,  of  medium  size ;  bright 
straw  color;  flesh  white  and  tender;  juice  rich,  lively,  and 
very  fine.  The  tree  bears  young,  and  makes  a  fine  garden 
espalier ;  ripening  its  fruit  in  July  and  August. 

EARLY  RED  JUNEATING,  Red  Margaret,  Early  Striped 
Juneating,  Strawberry,  Eve  Apple  of  the  Irish.  Fruit  below 
the  middle  size;  skin  greenish  yellow,  richly  and  closely 
streaked  with  deep  red ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  breaking,  sub-acid, 
very  rich  and  agreeable.  Ripens  early  in  August. 

PORTER.  This  variety,  says  Mr.  Manning,  originated  on  the 
farm  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Porter,  of  Sherburne,  Massachusetts. 
The  fruit  is  large,  of  oblong  shape ;  the  skin  a  bright  yellow, 
with  a  red  blush;  the  flesh  fine,  sprightly,  and  agreeable. 
Ripens  in  September  and  October. 

RED  ASTRACAN.  This  beautiful  apple  is  of  medium  size, 
and  roundish  ;  the  skin  is  dark  red,  covered  with  thick  bloom 
like  a  plum;  the  flesh  is  white,  tender,  and  somewhat  acid. 
At  perfection  early  in  August. 

RED  QUARENDON.  Devonshire  Quarendon.  Sack  Apple.  A 
much  esteemed  Devonshire  apple  ;  of  medium  size ;  skin  of  a 
uniform  deep  rich  crimson,  with  numerous  green  dots  inter- 
mixed ;  flesh  of  a  brisk,  pleasant,  and  peculiar  flavor.  A  very 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  51 

desirable  dessert  apple :  from  August  to  October ;  tree  very 
productive. 

SUMMER  PIPPIN,  Pie  Apple.  This  fruit,  in  size  and  shape, 
resembles  the  Fall  Pippin ;  it  differs  in  having  a  little  more  red 
on  the  sunny  side,  and  in  arriving  at  maturity  about  a  fortnight 
earlier.  It  is  a  very  popular  apple  in  New  Jersey. 

SUMMER  QUEEN.  A  large  oblong  apple,  striped  with  red  on 
a  yellow  ground ;  the  flesh  is  yellow,  very  high  flavored,  and 
excellent.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  says  Mr.  Manning, 
a  great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  August. 

SUMMER  ROSE,  Harvest  Apple.  A  very  beautiful  and  excel- 
lent fruit,  of  moderate  size  and  roundish  form ;  the  skin  is 
yellow,  striped  and  mottled  with  red ;  the  flesh  is  sweet,  juicy, 
and  fine :  in  Jul}7  and  August ;  tree  a  great  bearer. 

WILLIAMS'S  EARLY,  Williams's  Favorite  Red.  This  apple 
originated  in  Roxbury,  Mass. ;  it  is  of  medium  size ;  oblong 
form  ;  the  skin  a  bright  and  deep  red  ;  the  flavor  pleasant  and 
agreeable.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  its  fruit  commands 
a  good  price  in  the  Boston  markets :  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember. 

BEAUTY  OF  KENT.  Fruit  very  large,  roundish,  but  flat  at 
Ihe  base ;  skin  smooth,  greenish-yellow,  with  stripes  of  pur- 
plish-red ;  flesh  juicy,  crisp,  and  tender,  with  an  agreeable  sub- 
acid  flavor :  in  October  and  November. 

CANADIAN  REINETTE,  Reinette  du  Canada  blanche,  Portugal 
Apple,  Grosse  Reinette  d*  Angleterre,  Pomme  du  Caen,  Mela 
Janurea.  Fruit  large,  broad,  and  flat ;  skin  greenish-yellow, 
tinged  with  brown ;  flesh  yellowish-white,  firm,  juicy,  and  of  a 
high  sub-acid  flavor :  from  December  to  March. 

CHANDLER.  A  native  winter  fruit  of  Pomfret,  Connecticut. 
Large,  roundish,  slightly  flattened ;  skin  thickly  streaked  with 
dull  red  on  a  greenish-yellow  ground  with  grey  dots ;  flesh 
greenish-white,  tender,  juicy,  and  rich. 

COURT  OF  WICK  PIPPIN,  Fry's  Pippin,  Golden  Drop, 
Wood's  Transparent  Pippin,  Phillips'  Reinette,  KnightwicJc 
Pippin.  An  English  winter  variety,  well  adapted  for  Canada 


52  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

or  Maine.  Fruit  below  the  middle  size,  regularly  formed, 
roundish-ovate ;  skin  greenish-yellow,  mottled  with  orange  and 
red  at  maturity;  flesh  pale  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  and  high 
flavored. 

DUTCH  MIGNONNE,  Reinette  Doree,  Pomme  de  LaaJc,  Pater- 
noster Apple.  A  winter  fruit,  large,  roundish;  skin  dull 
orange,  streaked  and  mottled  with  red,  dotted  with  russet; 
flesh  crisp ;  juice  plentiful,  with  a  delicious  aromatic  flavor. 

EASTER  PIPPIN,  Claremont  Pippin,  Ironstone  Pippin, 
Young's  Long  Keeping,  French  Crab.  Fruit  middle  size,  some- 
what globular;  skin  deep  green,  shaded  with  a  pale  livid 
brown  ;  flesh  very  firm,  and  though  not  juicy,  of  a  good,  sub- 
acid  flavor.  This  variety  will  keep  sound  two  years. 

HEREFORDSHIRE  PEARMAIN,  Winter  Pearmain,  Royal  Pear- 
main,  Royale  d1  Angleterre.  A  fine  winter  dessert  fruit  above 
medium  size,  form  oblong ;  skin  russety-green,  mottled  with 
red,  and  dotted  with  greyish  specks ;  flesh  tender,  with  plea- 
sant aromatic  flavor.  Tree  an  abundant  bearer. 

LYSCUM,  Osgoodjs  Favoriie.  A  Massachusetts  variety  of 
merit.  Fruit  large,  round  ;  skin  greenish-yellow,  mottled  with 
red ;  flesh  fine  grained,  exceedingly  mild  and  agreeable  in 
flavor :  in  use  from  September  to  November. 

LYMAN'S  PUMPKIN  SWEET.  A  very  large  apple  raised  by 
Mr.  S.  Lyman,  Manchester,  Connecticut.  Skin  smooth,  pale 
yellow ;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  juicy,  and  excellent  for  baking :  in 
the  autumn.  The  tree  bears  prodigious  crops. 

NORTHERN  SPY.  A  native  variety  of  the  Spitzenberg 
family.  Fruit  large,  conical,  considerably  ribbed  ;  skin  smooth, 
yellow  ground,  nearly  covered  with  rich  dark  red  and  purplish 
streaks !  flesh  yellowish-white,  and  of  a  rich,  aromatic,  sub- 
acid  flavor :  good  from  December  to  May. 

PECK'S  PLEASANT.  This  variety  resembles  the  Yellow  New- 
town  Pippin,  only  it  is  larger ;  skin  smooth,  and  when  first 
gathered  green,  changing  to  yellow,  with  bright  blush  cheek 
and  scattered  grey  dots ;  flesh  yellowish,  fine  grained,  juicy, 
and  tender,  with  a  delicious  high  aromatic  flavor  in  winter. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  53 

Ross  NONPAREIL.  A  delicious  Irish,  variety,  approaching  in 
flavor  to  some  kinds  of  pear ;  fruit  below  medium  size,  round- 
ish ;  skin  covered  with  a  thin  mellow  russet,  faintly  stained 
with  red ;  flesh  greenish-white,  tender,  and  of  a  rich  aromatic 
flavor :  in  perfection  the  end  of  October.  Tree  a  profuse 
bearer,  and  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  amateur's  garden. 

SUMMER  SWEET  PARADISE.  A  Pennsylvania  fruit  of  large 
size  ;  round,  a  little  flattened  at  both  ends  ;  skin  rather  thick, 
pale  green,  tinged  with  yellow,  and  sprinkled  with  large  grey 
dots ;  flesh  tender,  crisp,  juicy,  and  of  a  sweet,  rich,  aromatic 
flavor  :  ripe  in  August  and  September. 

SOPS  OF  WINE,  Rode  Wyn  Appel,  Sapson,  Sops  in  Wine. 
A  handsome  little  autumn  apple  for  the  dessert ;  skin  smooth, 
crimson,  covered  with  a  delicate  light  bloom  ;  flesh  white,  with 
stains  of  a  pinkish  hue,  firm,  crisp,  and  juicy. 

VICTUALS  AND  DRINK,  Big  Sweet  Pompey.  Fruit  large, 
oblong,  rather  irregular ;  skin  rough,  dull  yellow,  marbled  with 
russet ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  breaking,  and  of  a  rich 
sprightly  flavor :  in  perfection  from  October  to  March.  The 
tree  is  a  moderate  bearer. 

WINESAP,  Wine  Sop.  This  is  a  good  winter  apple  for  the 
table,  and  one  of  the  finest  cider  fruits ;  it  is  of  medium  size, 
rather  oblong ;  skin  smooth,  of  a  fine  dark  red  and  yellow 
ground ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  with  a  rich  high  flavor. 


AUTUMN   FRUIT. 

ALEXANDER,  Emperor  Alexander,  Aporta.  Fruit  very  large, 
somewhat  cordate,  smallest  at  the  crown  ;  of  a  greenish-yellow 
colour,  striped  or  marbled  with  red ;  pulp  tender,  sweet,  rich, 
and  aromatic  ;  ripens  in  October,  and  lasts  till  Christmas. 

AMERICAN  NONPAREIL,  Doctor  Apple.  A  beautiful  apple  of 
medium  size  and  roundish  form ;  its  color  yellow,  streaked  and 
stained  with  red  on  the  sunny  side  ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  and  agree- 
able. A  very  fine  market  apple  in  October  and  November. 
Tree  a  great  bearer. 


54  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

BOXFORD.  A  very  superior  variety,  says  Mr.  Manning,  which 
was  first  cultivated  at  Boxford,  Massachusetts.  Fruit  roundish, 
of  medium  size ;  skin  striped  with  red  and  yellow ;  the  flesh 
yellow,  rich,  and  good.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  ripens 
its  fruit  in  October. 

CUMBERLAND  SPICE.  A  fine  dessert  fruit,  large,  rather 
oblong ;  of  a  pale  yellow  color,  clouded  near  the  base ;  the 
flesh  white,  tender,  and  of  a  fine  flavor.  It  ripens  in  autumn, 
and  will  keep  till  February. 

DOWNTON  PIPPIN,  Elton  Golden  Pippin,  KnighVs  Golden 
Pippin.  The  Downton  Golden  Pippin  is  a  most  abundant 
bearer,  and  the  fruit  extremely  well  adapted  for  market ;  it  is 
rather  larger  than  the  common  Golden  Pippin ;  skin  nearly 
smooth;  yellow,  sprinkled  with  numerous  specks;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, crisp,  with  a  brisk,  rich,  sub-acid  juice ;  specific  gravity 
10.79.  Ripe  in  October  and  November,  and  will  keep  good 
till  Christmas. 

DRAP  D'OR  OF  FRANCE,  Cloth  of  Gold.  This  apple  is  very 
large  and  handsome ;  its  form  globular ;  its  color  a  fine  yellow, 
with  dark  specks ;  its  flesh  white,  firm,  and  rich-flavored.  The 
tree  bears  well,  and  should  be  found  in  every  good  collection. 
Fruit  in  perfection  from  September  to  November. 

FALL  HARVEY.  This  is  a  large  and  handsome  fruit,  the 
shape  flat,  the  skin  light  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek ;  flesh 
yellow,  firm,  rich,  and  high  flavored.  Mr.  Manning  considered 
it  "  the  finest  Fall  and  Early  Winter  variety  ;  a  good  bearer, 
and  deserving  extensive  cultivation." 

FALL  PIPPIN,  Cobbetfs  Fall  Pippin,  Reinette  Blanche 
cPEspagne,  D'Espagne,  De  Rateau,  Concombre  Ancien,  White 
Spanish  Rein°Me,  Camuesar.  This  extremely  valuable  variety  * 
stands  in  the  first  class  of  autumn  fruits,  and  is  very  large ;  its 
form  is  roundish  oblong  ;  skin  smooth,  yellowish  green,  tinged 
with  orange ;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  and  tender,  with  a  very 
rich,  sugary  juice.  It  ripens  in  October,  and  keeps  well  as  a 
fall  apple. 

FAME  USE,  Pomme  de  Neige.      A  Canadian  apple  of  great 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  55 

beauty  ;  in  size  medium  ;  skin  light  green,  stained  with  bright 
red ;  flesh  white,  very  tender ;  juice  saccharine,  with  a  musky 
perfume ;  ripe  in  October,  and  will  keep  good  till  Christmas. 
Tree  hardy  and  productive. 

GOLDEN  RUSSET,  Aromatic  Russet.  A  dessert  apple,  of  me- 
dium size,  and  of  a  pale  copper-colored  russet ;  in  great  repute 
for  its  rich  saccharine,  aromatic,  and  slightly  musky  flavor. 
The  tree  is  hardy  and  very  productive :  in  October  and  November. 

GRAVENSTEIN.  Fruit  rather  large  and  compressed ;  of  a  yel- 
lowish green  color,  striped  with  red;  flesh  crisp,  and  high 
flavored  ;  ripens  in  October,  and  lasts  till  April.  This  variety 
originated  in  Germany,  and  is  considered  the  best  dessert  apple 
in  that  country. 

KENRICK'S  RED  AUTUMN.  A  native  apple  of  largish  dimen- 
sions, raised  by  John  Kenrick,  Esq.,  of  Newton,  Massachusetts  ; 
color  pale  green  in  the  shade,  but  bright  red  next  the  sun,  and 
streaked  with  deeper  red  ;  the  flesh  white,  stained  more  or  less 
with  red ;  tender,  juicy,  and  rich,  with  an  agreeable  sub-acid 
flavor ;  ripe  in  October. 

KILHAM  HILL.  This  apple,  one  of  the  most  saleable  varie- 
ties in  Salem  markets,  originated  on  the  farm  of  Dr.  Kilham, 
in  Wenham,  Essex  county,  Massachusetts ;  the  size  is  .above 
medium ;  form  a  little  oblong ;  the  skin  yellow,  striped  with 
red ;  the  flesh  is  yellow  and  high  flavored ;  from  September  to 
November. 

MONMOUTH  PIPPIN.  This  variety  originated  in  Monmouth 
county.  New  Jersey.  It  is  above  medium  size,  of  greenish 
color,  striped  with  red ;  flesh  firm,  and  of  pleasant  flavor.  It 
is  considered  one  of  the  most  saleable  and  productive  varieties 
of  the  season ;  and  will  keep  good  till  after  Christmas. 

ORANGE  SWEETING,  Yellow  Sweeting,  Golden  Sweeting. 
This  variety  is  much  cultivated  near  Hartford,  Connecticut,  for 
the  Boston,  Providence,  and  Philadelphia  markets ;  the  fruit  is 
rather  large,  flattened  at  its  base  and  summit ;  the  color  yellow, 
or  orange  ;  flesh  very  sweet  and  excellent :  from  September  to 
December. 


56  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

RED  INGESTRIE.  A  first-rate  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size, 
and  bright  yellow  color,  deeply  tinged  with  red  ;  raised  by  Mr. 
Knight,  President  of  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The 
tree  bears  well  in  America,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  October,  which 
is  very  rich,  juicy,  high  flavored,  and  grateful  to  the  palate. 

RED  AND  GREEN  SWEETING,  Prince's  Large  Red  and  Green 
Sweeting.  The  fruit  is  of  oblong  shape ;  color  green,  striped 
with  red ;  the  pulp  is  very  sweet,  tender,  and  of  delicious 
flavor :  from  September  to  November. 

SEEK  NO  FARTHER,  Rambo,  or  Romanite.  This  apple  is  much 
cultivated  in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey.  Its  form  is  flat, 
resembling  the  Vandervere  in  appearance,  but  is  a  more  juicy 
fruit ;  the  skin  pale  yellow,  streaked  with  red  ;  flesh  tender  and 
sprightly  during  the  autumn  months. 

STROAT,  Straat.  A  fine  autumn  apple,  introduced  by  the 
late  Jesse  Buel,  Esq.,  of  Albany  ;  in  size  medium  ;  form  rather 
oblong;  skin  yellowish  green  ;  flesh  yellow  and  tender;  juice 
rich  and  lively ;  in  use  from  September  to  December. 

YELLOW  INGESTRIE.  A  beautifu}  apple,  raised  by  Mr.  Knight, 
President  of  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The  size  is 
small,  form  round  and  regular ;  the  color  of  the  skin  golden 
yellow,  with  some  black  spots ;  the  flesh  yellow,  firm,  and 
delicate.  The  tree  is  an  abundant  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit 
in  October.  The  late  Judge  Buel  considered  this  variety  as 
likely  to  rival  the  Lady -apple  as  a  fashionable  fruit. 

YORK  RUSSETING.  A  very  large  russety  apple,  well  known 
about  Boston.  Its  form  is  rather  oblong  ;  its  flesh  pleasant  and 
agreeably  acid ;  an  excellent  apple  :  from  October  to  December. 

WINTER   FRUIT. 

^Esorus  SPITZENBERG.  A  beautiful  apple  ;  large  and  oval ; 
of  red  color,  covered  with  numerous  white  specks ;  the  flesh 
is  yellowish ;  slightly  acid,  and  of  the  finest  flavor ;  ripens 
in  October  and  continues  good  till  February. 

BALDWIN.     No  apple  in  the  Boston  markets  is  more  popu 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  67 

Jar  than  this ;  it  is  rather .  above  medium  size ;  its  form 
round;  its  color  bright  red,  streaked  with  yellow;  its  flesh 
is  juicy,  rich,  saccharine,  with  a  most  agreeable  acid  flavor. 
The  tree  bears  fruit  abundantly,  which  ripens  in  Novem- 
ber, and  keeps  till  February  or  March. 

BARCELONA  PEARMAIN,  Speckled  Golden  Reinette,  Reinette 
Rouge,  Reinette  Rousse,  Reinette  des  Carmes,  Glace  Rouge, 
Kleiner  Casseler  Reinette.  This  variety  is  said  to  be  a  very 
productive  and  excellent  dessert  apple ;  fruit  of  medium  size  ; 
oval,  not  angular ;  color  brownish  yellow  in  the  shade,  deep 
red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  firm,  yellowish,  with  a  rich  aroma- 
tic agreeable  acid :  from  November  till  February. 

BEAUTY  OF  THE  WEST.  A  large,  oblate,  beautiful  fruit, 
of  yellow  and  red  color ;  its  flesh  juicy,  rich,  saccharine,  and 
firm.  A  gcod  marketable  apple  from  November  until  March. 

BELL  FLOWER.  A  very  large  and  beautiful  Apple;  its 
color  bright  yellow,  with  an  occasional  blush  on  the  sunny 
side;  its  form  oblong;  the  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  and  finely 
flavored,  and  is  alike  excellent  for  the  dessert  and  for  cooking. 
It  ripens  early  in  November,  and  will  keep  all  the  winter.  It 
is  a  valuable  market  fruit. 

BLENHEIM  PIPPIN,  Woodstock  Pippin,  Blenheim  Orange. 
Fruit  large,  roundish,  of  a  yellowish  color,  tinged  with  red 
next  the  sun ;  pulp  sweet  and  high  flavored :  ripe  in  No- 
vember, and  keeps  till  March :  a  very  superior  dessert  apple. 

BLUE  PEARMAIN.  This  variety  is  well  known  about  Boston 
as  a  large  apple,  of  red  color,  covered  with  a  dense  blue  bloom, 
and  of  a  delicious  flavor ;  good  as  a  dessert  or  for  cooking : 
from  October  to  January.  The  tree  grows  strong,  and  is  very 
productive.  ' 

COURT  PENDU,  Capendu,  Court  Pendu  Plat,  Garnon's 
Apple.  An  estimable  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size ;  in  shape 
round,  depressed ;  the  color  yellow,  a  good  deal  covered  with 
full  red ;  it  is  of  a  high  saccharine  flavor  and  of  close  consis- 
tence ;  the  fruit  keeps  till  February  or  March.  The  tree  grows 
upright,  and  bears  well. 

3* 


58  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

DANVERS  WINTER  SWEET,  Epses  Sweet,  Danvers  Sweeting. 
This  variety  originated  at  Danvers,  near  Salem,  Massachusetts ; 
fruit  of  medium  size ;  a  little  oblong ;  skin  yellow,  slightly 
tinged  with  red  ;  its  flesh  sweet  and  excellent  cooked,  or  as  a 
dessert :  from  November  to  April.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer, 
and  of  rapid  growth. 

DOMINE,  Domini.  A  first-rate  winter  apple,  of  medium  size 
and  greenish  yellow  color,  clouded  with  brown  blotches;  the 
flesh  is  juicy,  tender,  and  excellent.  Tree  a  great  bearer. 

GOLDEN  BALL,  Golden  Apple.  A  beautiful  and  superior 
fruit  from  the  State  of  Maine  ;  of  large  size  and  golden  yellow 
color ;  flesh  firm  ;  juice  very  rich,  sweet,  aromatic,  with  a  good 
proportion  of  acid.  It  will  keep  good  from  November  to  April. 

GOLDEN  HARVEY,  Brandy  Apple.  A  dessert  apple,  not 
larger  than  the  Golden  Pippin  ;  color  light  yellow,  with  a  flush 
of  red,  and  embroidered  with  a  roughish  russet.  It  is  called 
Brandy  Apple  from  the  superior  specific  strength  of  its  juice, 
being  10.85;  it  is  of  remarkably  close  texture,  very  rich  in 
flavor,  and  will  keep  till  April  or  May. 

GREEN  SWEET,  Green  Sweeting,  Green  Winter  Sweet.  This 
apple  is  much  cultivated  in  Massachusetts.  It  is  of  medium 
size  ;  the  skin  dull  green,  approaching  to  yellow  ;  the  flesh  very 
sweet  and  delicious.  It  possesses  the  valuable  property  of 
retaining  its  soundness  till  May  or  June. 

HUBBARDSTON  NONESUCH.  A  large  Apple  of  globular  form  ; 
red  and  yellow  color,  streaked  and  blotched;  the  flesh  is  juicy 
and  of  excellent  flavor ;  from  December  to  March.  The  tree 
is  of  vigorous  growth,  a  great  bearer,  and  worthy  of  extensive 
cultivation. 

JONATHAN.  King  Philip,  New  Spitzeriberg,  Philip  Riclc. 
A  winter  fruit  very  generally  admired  in  the  State  of  New  York. 
It  is  of  medium  size  ;  the  skin  of  pale  yellow  and  bright  red 
color,  occasionally  tinged  with  purple ;  flesh  tender,  juice  abun- 
dant, and  highly  flavored.  This  fruit  will  keep  till  May. 

LADY  APPLE,  Pomme  d'Api.  Fruit  small,  flat ;  of  pale 
yellow  color,  tinged  with  a  deep  red  on  the  side ;  flesh  crisp, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  59 

sprightly,  and  pleasant:  ripens  in  November,  and  continues  till 
April.  It  is  a  very  saleable  fruit  on  account  of  its  great  beauty. 

LADIES'  SWEETING,  Winter  -Sweeting.  This  apple  is  above 
medium  size ;  conical ;  skin  yellow,  streaked  and  mottled  with 
red ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  and  high  flavored :  from  November  to 
May. 

LEMON  PIPPIN.  An  old  and  much  esteemed  dessert  apple ; 
of  medium  size  and  oval  shape,  much  like  a  lemon  both  in  form 
and  color,  having  a  firm  texture,  brisk  flavor,  and  plenty  of  acid : 
from  October  to  March.  Tree  handsome  and  a  great  bearer. 

MAIDEN'S  BLUSH,  Hawthornden.  Fruit  large,  roundish  ;  skin 
pale  greenish-yellow,  tinged  with  blush ;  the  pulp  is  white, 
tender,  juicy,  and  acid ;  and  the  fruit  is  good  for  the  table  as 
well  as  for  all  kitchen  purposes :  in  September  and  October. 
The  tree  is  hardy  and  prolific. 

MALCARLE,  Charles  Apple,  Mela  Carla,  Pomme  Finale.  A 
far-famed  fruit.  In  the  climate -of  Italy,  this  is  supposed  to  be 
the  best  apple  in  the  world.  It  is  cultivated  extensively  in  the 
territories  of  Genoa,  as  an  article  of  export  and  commerce  to 
Nice,  Barcelona,  Cadiz,  and  Marseilles.  The  fruit  is  rather 
large,  its  form  inclining  to  globular.  Its  beautiful  waxen  skin  is 
a  little  marbled  with  a  very  faint  green  near  the  eye ;  its  color 
in  the  shade  is  a  pale  yellow,  tinged  with  flaming  crimson 
next  the  sun ;  the  flesh  is  white,  tender,  delicate,  sweet,  with 
the  fragrant  perfume  of  roses.  It  ripens  in  September,  and  will 
keep  till  spring. 

MENAGERE.  Mr.  Manning  pronounced  this  to  be  the  largest 
apple  he  had  seen  ;  the  form  is  flat,  like  a  large  English  turnip  ; 
the  skin  of  a  light  yellow ;  the  flesh  pleasant,  but  more  adapted 
to  the  kitchen  than  the  dessert :  from  October  to  February.  It 
bears  well  trained  as  a  dwarf. 

MINISTER.  A  native  apple  of  large  size,  and  oblong  shape ; 
the  skin  a  light  greenish-yellow,  striped  with  bright  red  ;  flesh 
yellow,  light,  high-flavored,  and  excellent.  Mr.  Manning  consider- 
ed this  as  one  of  the  finest  fruits  that  New  England  ever  pro- 
duced. It  ripens  in  November,  and  will  keep  till  after  Christmas. 


60  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

MONSTROUS  PIPPIN,  Baltimore,  Gloria  Mundi,  Ox  Apple. 
Fruit  of  enormous  size,  often  weighing  twenty  five  ounces  or 
more ;  of  a  pale  yellowish-grean  and  bluish  color,  with  white 
spots  ;  and  of  a  sprightly  flavor,  excellent  for  cooking :  ripens  in 
October,  and  continues  fit  for  use  till  January. 

MURPHY.  This  apple  in  appearance  resembles  the  Blue 
Pearmain ;  the  shape  is  more  oblong,  the  size  not  so  large  ;  the 
skin  pale  red,  streaked  or  blotched  with  darker  red,  and  covered 
with  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  white,  tender,  and  good.  Raised  from 
seed  by  Mr.  Murphy,  and  introduced  to  notice  by  Mr.  Manning. 

NEWTOWN  PIPPIN,  American  Newtown  Pippin,  Yellow  New- 
town  Pippin.  This  variety,  when  perfectly  matured,  is  consider- 
ed by  some  the  finest  apple  in  our  country  ;  its  skin  is  green, 
changing  to  an  olive  yellow  at  maturity  f  having  a  thin  russet 
covering  the  greatest  part  of  the  base ;  flesh  pale-yellow  and 
firm ;  juice  saccharine,  and  possessing  a  rich  and  highly  aroma- 
tic flavor ;  from  December  to  April. 

NEWTOWN  SPITZENBERG,  Matchless.  A  beautiful  apple  of 
medium  size  ;  skin  streaked,  and  tinged  with  red  and  yellow ; 
flesh  yellow,  rich,  and  highly  flavored :  from  October  to 
February. 

NORFOLK  BEAUFIN.  Fruit  middling  size,  flattish,  of  a  deep 
red  and  pale  green  color ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  savory ;  the 
tree  hardy,  npright,  and  a  good  bearer ;  fruit  excellent  for  use 
in  the  kitchen,  and  highly  esteemed  for  the  dessert.  It  ripens 
in  November,  and  is  frequently  to  be  obtained  in  England  in 
July  following. 

ORTLEY  PIPPIN,  Ortley  Apple,  Vandyne,  Woodman's  Song 
of  Prince.  A  fruit  very  much  resembling  the  Yellow  Newtown 
Pippin,  but  a  little  more  oval ;  skin  olive  yellow  at  maturity ; 
partially  covered  with  pink  and  russet ;  flesh  yellow,  crisp,  and 
breaking ;  very  juicy,  with  the  same  pine-apple  flavor  which 
distinguishes  the  Newtown  Pippin :  good  from  November  to 
April. 

PENNOCK'S  RED  WINTER,  Pelican.  Fruit  very  large  and 
compressed ;  of  deep  red  color,  streaked  with  yellow ;  flesh 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  61 

tender,  juicy,  and,  of  a  sweet  and  pleasant  flavor :  ripens  in 
November,  and  will  keep  good  till  March.  It  is  a  very  popu- 
lar apple  in  the  Philadelphia  markets. 

PUMPKIN  SWEET,  RamsdelVs  Red  Pumpkin  Sweet.  A  beau- 
tiful fruit,  over  medium  size,  round,  inclined  to  oblong ;  of  a 
dark  red  color,  covered  with  dense  blue  bloom ;  flesh  tender, 
rich,  and  sweet.  It  ripens  in  November,  and  keeps  till  January. 
The  trees  bear  prodigious  crops. 

RHODE  ISLAND  GREENING.  Fruit  large  and  depressed ;  skin 
at  maturity  greenish  yellow ;  flesh  slightly  acid,  and  of  the 
finest  flavor  :  ripens  in  November,  and  continues  till  April.  A 
most  estimable  apple  for  cooking  as  well  as  for  the  dessert. 

RIBSTONE  PIPPIN,  Formosa  Pippin,  Travels  Apple,  Glory 
of  York.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  and  partially 
depressed ;  of  a  pale  yellow  color,  tinged  with  red ;  pulp 
slightly  acid,  and  of  fine  flavor :  ripens  in  November,  and  con- 
tinues till  April.  It  is  one  of  the  most  popular  dessert  apples 
in  England. 

ROXBURY  RUSSET,  Boston  Russet,  Pineapple  Russet.  This 
variety  is  cultivated  extensively  in  Massachusetts  for  the  Bos- 
ton markets,  and  for  exportation.  The  fruit  is  of  medium 
size  ;  of  a  fine  yellow  russet  color,  mixed  with  dull  red  ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid,  and  excellent ;  for  use  in  winter, 
and  will  keep  till  June. 

SWAAR  APPLE.  A  much  celebrated  winter  table  fruit  in 
some  parts  of  New  York  and  New  Jersey  ;  it  is  a  large  apple 
of  uncommon  flavor  and  richness ;  skin  of  a  greenish  yellow, 
tinged  with  blush.  The  tree  is  very  productive,  and  highly 
deserving  cultivation  in  every  collection  of  fine  fruit.  Good 
till  March. 

VANDEVERE.  An  apple  of  medium  size,  the  form  flat ;  skin 
pale  red,  with  rough  yellowish  blotches  ;  flesh  yellow  and  ten- 
der ;  juice  plentiful,  rich,  and  sprightly  :  from  October  till 
January. 

WESTERN  RUSSET,  Putnam's  Russet.  This  variety  is  ex- 
tensively cultivated  in  Muskingum  county,  Ohio,  where  it  is 


62  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

esteemed  above  all  others  of  their  fine  winter  varieties.  It  is 
above  the  middle  size,  of  a  greenish-yellow  color,  covered  with 
russety  blotches,  and  will  keep  all  the  winter. 

WHITE  WINTER  CALVILLE,  Calville  Blanche  tfHiver,  Bon- 
net Carre.  This  fruit  is  large ;  its  color  at  maturity  bright 
yellow,  tinged  with  red  ;  its  form  rather  flat ;  flesh  white,  ten- 
der, and  pleasant :  from  November  till  March.  Tree  an  abun- 
dant bearer. 

WINE  APPLE,  Hay* 8  Winter,  Large  Winter  Red,  Fine  Win- 
ter. A  variety  highly  esteemed  in  the  Philadelphia  markets  ; 
the  fruit  is  large,  of  bright  red  color,  striped  with  yellow,  the 
stalk  end  russety ;  its  flesh  is  rich,  aromatic,  and  pleasant : 
from  October  to  February.  The  tree  bears  young  and  abun- 
dantly. 

CIDER   FRUIT. 

CAMPFIELD,  OR  NEWARK  SWEETING".  This  apple  is  next  in 
reputation,  as  a  cider  fruit,  to  the  Harrison,  and  is  often  mixed 
with  that  apple  in  equal  proportions  when  ground  ;  it  is  of  the 
middle  size,  skin  smooth,  of  red  and  yellow  color ;  the  flesh  is 
white,  firm,  sweet,  and  rich. 

GRANNIWINKLE.  Fruit  of  moderate  size,  rather  oblong ;  the 
skin  a  dark  red,  somewhat  rough ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  and 
rich.  It  is  commonly  mixed  with  the  Harrison  for  making 
cider  of  a  superior  quality  :  ripe  in  November. 

HEWE'S  VIRGINIA  CRAB.  From  this  fruit  is  obtained  the 
celebrated  Crab  Cider ;  it  is  of  small  size,  nearly  round  ;  skin 
of  a  dull  red,  streaked  with  greenish  yellow ;  the  flesh  is 
fibrous  and  astringent ;  juice  acid  and  austere. 

HARRISON,  Harrison's  Newark.  This  fruit  is  much  cele- 
brated in  New  Jersey  as  a  cider  apple  ;  it  is  somewhat  ovate, 
below  the  middle  size ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with  black  spots ; 
flesh  yellow,  firm,  rich,  and  sprightly.  Ten  bushels  will  make 
a  barrel  of  exquisite  cider,  from  which  may  be  taken  fourteen 
quarts  of  distilled  spirits. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  63 

APRICOT. 

ABRICOTIER.     Prunus  Armeniaca. 

The  Margaret  Apple,  the  pride  of  our  clime, 
"With  the  Apricot,  Raspberry,  true  to  their  time, 
Are  pleasant  companions,  as  summer  e'er  met, 
Though  others,  as  welcome,  are  coming  on  yet. 

The  fruit  of  the  Apricot  is  next  in  esteem  to  the  Peach ;  and 
as  it  ripens  three  or  four  weeks  earlier,  should  be  more  gene- 
rally cultivated.  The  flowers  appear  in  April,  on  the  shoots 
of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  spurs  of  two  or  more  years' 
growth ;  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  July  and  August.  The  Lon- 
don Horticultural  Society's  catalogue  describes  fifty-four  sorts ; 
and  Messrs.  Prince  have  eighteen  in  their  catalogue.  Besides 
these,  is  the  Peach  Apricot,  a  large  fruit,  supposed  to  be  a 
hybrid  between  a  Peach  and  an  Apricot. 

Our  enterprising  fellow- citizen,  Mr.  William  Shaw,  has  suc- 
ceeded for  many  years  in  maturing  large  quantities  of  this 
excellent  fruit  on  standards ;  but  they  ripen  best  when  trained 
against  close  fences.  In  England,  some  of  the  varieties  are 
cultivated  as  standards  and  espaliers;  but  they  seldom  bear 
much  fruit  under  ten  or  twelve  years,  and  then  the  fruit  is 
abundant  and  of  the  finest  flavor.  They  are  commonly  cul- 
tivated as  wall  trees,  in  an  east  or  west  aspect ;  for  if  they  are 
planted  to  face  the  south,  the  great  heat  causes  them  to  be 
mealy  before  they  are  eatable.  New  varieties  are  procured 
from  seed,  as  in  the  Peach,  and  approved  sorts  are  perpetuated 
by  budding  on  plum-stocks. 

The  varieties  of  the  Apricot,  in  general,  bear  chiefly  upon 
the  young  shoots  of  last  year,  and  casually  upon  small  spurs 
rising  on  the  two  or  three-years-old  fruit  branches.  The  Moor- 
park  bears  chiefly  on  the  last  year's  shoots,  and  on  close  spurs 
formed  on  the  two-year-old  wood.  The  bearing-shoots  emit 
the  blossom-buds  immediately  from  the  eyes  along  the  sides, 
and  the  buds  have  a  round  and  swelling  appearance. 


64  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

PRUNING   APRICOT-TREES. 

Apricot-trees  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  head  is 
formed ;  some  head  them  down  in  the  nursery  bed,  and  re- 
move them  to  their  destined  places  when  five  or  six  years  old. 
Standards  will  require  only  occasional  pruning,  to  regulate  such 
branches  as  may  be  too  numerous,  too  extended,  or  cross- 
formed,  and  to  remove  any  casually  unfruitful  parts  and  dead 
wood.  The  regular  branches  forming  the  head  of  the  tree 
should  not  be  shortened  unless  necessary. 

The  general  culture  of  the  wall  Apricots  comprehends  a 
summer  and  winter  course  of  regulation,  by  pruning  and  train- 
ing. The  fan  method  is  generally  adopted,  but  some  prefer 
training  horizontally.  With  young  trees  some  contrive  to  fill 
the  wall  by  heading  down  twice  a  year. 

The  winter,  or  early  spring  management,  comprehends  a 
general  regulation  both  of  the  last  year's  shoots  and  the  older 
branches.  A  general  supply  of  the  most  regularly  situated 
young  shoots  must  be  everywhere  retained  for  successional 
bearers  the  ensuing  year.  Cut  out  such  branches  as  are  not 
furnished  with  competent  supplies  of  young  wood,  or  with 
fruit  spurs,  to  make  room  for  training  the  most  promising 
branches  retained.  Generally,  observe  in  this  pruning  to 
retain  one  leading  shoot  at  the  end  of  each  branch ;  either  a 
naturally  placed  terminal,  or  one  formed  by  cutting  (where  a 
vacancy  is  to  be  furnished)  into  a  proper  leader.  Let  the 
shoots  retained  for  bearers  be  moderately  shortened.  Reduce 
strong  shoots  in  the  least  proportion — cutting  off  one-fourth 
or  less  of  their  length.  From  weak  shoots  take  away  a  third, 
and  sometimes  a  half.  This  shortening  will  conduce  to  the 
production  of  a  good  supply  of  lateral  shoots  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer from  the  lower  and  middle  placed  eyes;  whereas  without 
it,  the  new  shoots  would  proceed  mostly  from  the  top  and 
leave  the  under  part  of  the  principal  branches  naked,  and  the 
lower  and  middle  parts  of  the  tree  unfurnished  with  proper 
supplies  of  bearing-wood.  Never  prune  below  all  the  blossom- 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  65 

buds,  except  to  provide  wood,  in  which  case  cut  nearer  to  the 
origin  of  the  branch.  As  in  these  trees  small  fruit-spurs,  an 
inch  or  two  long,  often  appear  on  some  of  the  two  or  three 
years'  branches  furnished  with  blossom-buds,  these  spurs  should 
generally  be  retained  for  bearing.  As  each  tree  is  pruned,  lay 
in  the  branches  and  shoots  from  three  to  six  inches  distance, 
and  nail  them  straight  or  close  to  the  fence  or  wall. 

The  summer  pruning  is  principally  to  regulate  the  young 
shoots  of  the  same  year.  In  the  first  place,  take  off  close  all 
the  irregular  foremost  shoots,  taking  care  to  retain  a  competent 
supply  of  close  side-shoots,  with  a  good  leader  to  each  parent 
branch.  Continue  these  mostly  at  full  length  all  the  summer, 
regularly  trained  in,  to  procure  a  sufficiency  to  choose  from,  in 
the  general  winter  pruning  for  new  bearers  the  next  year.  If 
the  summer  regulation  commences  early,  while  the  shoots  are 
quite  young  and,  as  it  .were,  herbaceous,  those  improper  to 
retain  may  be  detached  with  the  finger  and  thumb ;  but  when 
of  firmer  growth,  they  must  be  removed  with  the  knife.  If 
any  strong  shoots  rise  in  any  part  where  the  wood  is  deficient, 
they  may  be  topped  in  June,  which  will  cause  them  to  produce 
several  laterals  the  same  year,  eligible  for  training  in,  to  supply 
the  vacancy. 

Sometimes  the  fruit  is  much  too  numerous,  if  not  destroyed 
by  insects  often  growing  in  clusters ;  in  which  case  thin  them 
while  in  a  young,  green  state,  leaving  the  most  prominent. fruit 
singly,  at  three  or  four  inches  distance,  or  from  about  two  to 
six  on  the  respective  shoots,  according  to  their  strength.  The 
Apricots  so  thinned  off,  and  the  first  principal  green  fruit,  are 
very  fine  for  tarts. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE   LIST   OF  APRICOTS. 

BREDA,  Abricot  de  Hollande,  Amande  Aveline,  Royal  Per- 
sian. Fruit  medium  size,  of  a  round  form,  and  deep  yellow 
color ;  the  pulp  is  soft  and  juicy ;  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer, 


DO  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  the  fruit,  which  ripens  early  in  August,  is  in  great  es- 
teem. 

BRUSSELS.  Highly  esteemed  for  its  productiveness;  fruit 
medium  size,  inclining  to  an  oval  form ;  of  a  yellow  color,  and 
next  the  sun  covered  with  numerous  dark  spots ;  the  flesh  is 
of  a  greenish-yellow  color,  of  a  brisk  flavor,  and  not  liable  to 
become  mealy :  ripens  in  August. 

BLOTCHED-LEAVED  ROMAN,  Blotch-Leaved  Turkey,  Varie- 
gated Turkey,  Abricot  Macule  of  the  French.  Fruit  middle 
size,  in  form  slightly  compressed,  inclining  to  oval ;  skin  dull 
straw-color,  with  orange  or  red  spots ;  flesh  pale  straw-color, 
soft,  dry,  rather  mealy ;  kernel  rather  bitter.  A  very  hardy 
and  productive  variety ;  ripe  towards  the  end  of  July. 

EARLY  ORANGE,  Royal  George,  Royal  Orange.  The  fruit 
of  a  medium  size  ;  of  a  deep  yellow  color,  spotted  with  red  or 
dark  purple  next  the  sun;  flesh  deep  orange,  succulent,  and 
well  flavored ;  not  perfectly  a  freestone :  ripens  early  in  August. 

HEMSKIRKE.  Fruit  middle-sized,  roundish,  slightly  com- 
pressed ;  of  a  bright  yellow  color ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  with  a 
particularly  rich,  delicate  flavor,  resembling  that  of  the  Green 
Gage  Plum :  ripe  in  July. 

LARGE  EARLY  APRICOT,  Apricot  Gros  Precoce,  Abricot  de  St. 
Jean,  Abricot  de  St.  Jean  rouge,  Abricot  gros  d*  Alexandrie. 
Fruit  somewhat  oblong ;  skin  downy,  orange,  spotted  with 
red ;  flesh  orange,  juicy,  and  rich,  parting  from  the  stone. 
This  is  the  earliest  of  all  apricots ;  in  France  it  has  ripened  by 
midsummer-day,  whence  its  name  of  A.  de  St.  Jean. 

MOORPARK,  Anson's,  Temple's,  Dunmore's  Breda.  The  tree 
is  of  vigorous  growth,  and  extraordinarily  productive ;  the  fruit 
is  very  large ;  of  a  bright  gold  color,  or  orange,  with  dark 
spots  next  the  sun ;  flesh  orange  color,  melting,  and  excellent : 
ripens  in  August. 

MUSCH,  Musch.  A  fine  new  variety  from  Persia ;  in  shape 
round ;  of  a  deep  yellow  color,  and  remarkable  for  the  trans- 
parency of  its  pulp,  through  which  the  stone  is  visible ;  the 
flesh  is  very  fine  and  agreeable  :  ripens  in  July. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  67 

PEACH  APRTCOT,  Abricot  Peche,  Abricot  de  Nancy,  Ansen's 
Imperial.  This  is  a  first-rate  fruit ;  form  variable,  generally 
flattened ;  skin  slightly  downy ;  fawn-color  next  the  sun,  tinged 
with  reddish  spots  or  points;  pulp  yellow,  melting,  juice 
abundant,  high  flavored,  and  excellent :  ripens  early  in  August. 

PURPLE,  Alexandrian  Abricot,  Abricot  Angoumois,  Abricot 
Violet,  Black  Apricot.  A  small,  globular,  downy  fruit,  a  little 
oblong ;  of  a  pale  red  color,  becoming  deep  red  or  purple  next 
the  sun ;  flesh  pale  red,  but  orange  next  the  stone ;  a  little  acid, 
but  good :  ripens  in  August. 

RED  MASCULINE,  Abricot  Precoce,  Abricot  Hatif  Musque, 
Early  Masculine.  This  is  an  old  and  very  early  variety,  the 
fruit  of  which  is  small,  of  a  roundish  form,  and  greenish  red 
color ;  the  pulp  is  tender ;  the  tree  a  good  bearer,  and  the  fruit 
esteemed  for  its  earliness  and  tart  taste :  ripens  in  July. 

ROYAL,  Abricot  Royale.  This  fruit  is  next  in  size  to  the 
Moorpark ;  rather  oval,  compressed ;  of  dull  yellow  color, 
slightly  red ;  flesh  pale  orange,  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  high 
flavored,  with  a  slight  acid :  ripens  early  in  August. 

TURKEY,  Large  Turkey.  A  superior  apricot;  fruit  of  a 
medium  size ;  deep  yellow  color,  with  red  blotches  next  the 
sun  ;  form  globular :  flesh  firm,  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent :  ripe 
in  July  and  August. 

WHITE  APRICOT,  White  Masculine,  Abricot  Blanc.  Fruit, 
in  size  and  figure  similar  to  the  Red  Masculine.  Skin  nearly 
white ;  flesh  white,  very  delicate ;  juice  sweet,  with  an  agree- 
able peach-like  flavor.  Ripe  in  July. 


CHERRY. 

CERISIER.       Prunus  cerasus. 

The  accompanying  illustrations  of  choice  Cherries  will  fur- 
nish a  correct  idea  of  the  comparative  size  of  each  variety. 


68 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


The  Cherry  of  the  cultivated  varieties  is  said  to  have  been 
first  introduced  into  Italy  in  the  year  73  from  a  town  in  Pon- 
tus,  in  Asia,  called  Cerasus,  whence  its  specific  name;  and 
it  was  introduced  into  Britain  one  hundred  and  twenty  years 
afterwards. 

The  Romans  had  eight  species  in  Pliny's  time — red,  black, 
tender-fleshed,  hard-fleshed,  small  bitter-flavored,  and  heart- 


Early  Purple  Guigne.        Black  Tartarian. 


Black  Eagle. 


shaped.  There  are  now  upwards  of  two  hundred  in  cultivation. 
The  French  divide  their  Cherries  into  griottes,  or  tender- 
fleshed  ;  bigarreaux,  or  heart-shaped ;  and  guignes,  or  small 
fruit.  The  fruit  of  many  varieties  is  somewhat  heart-shaped, 
whence  they  are  called  ox-heart,  white-heart,  and  black-heart. 
Why  some  sorts  are  called  dukes,  is  not  so  obvious.  The 
morello  cherry  is  very  different  from  the  other  varieties,  bear- 
ing almost  exclusively  from  the  preceding  year's  wood,  and  the 
palp  of  the  fruit  having  the  consistence  and  flavor  of  the 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  69 

fungi  called  morel ;  whence  the  name.  The  Chinese  Cherry  is 
valuable  on  account  of  its  bearing  an  excellent  fruit,  and  ripen- 
ing it  in  forcing-houses. 

Cherries  are  grafted  or  budded  on  seedlings  from  Cherry- 
stones, and  from  seedlings  of  the  red  and  black  mazzard.  Foi 
dwarfing,  they  are  worked  on  the  morello,  or  perfumed  Cherry ; 
the  latter  is  preferred  in  Holland.  In  this  country,  the  budding 
system  is  more  frequently  practised  on  the  various  species  of 
stone  fruit  than  grafting. 

PRUNING    CHERRY-TREES. 

Cherry-trees,  in  general,  produce  the  fruit  upon  small  spurs 
or  studs,  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  length,  which  pro- 
ceed from  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  two-year,  three-year,  and 
older  branches  ;  and  as  new  spurs  continue  shooting  from  the 
extreme  parts,  it  is  a  maxim  in  pruning  both  standards  and 
espaliers,  not  to  shorten  the  bearing  branches  when  there  is 
room  for  their  regular  extension. 

The  Morello  is,  in  some  degree,  an  exception,  as  it  bears 
principally  on  the  shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  the  fruit  pro- 
ceeding immediately  from  the  eyes  of  shoots ;  and  bears  but 
casually,  and  in  a  small  degree,  on  close  spurs  formed  on  the 
two-year-old  wood,  and  scarcely  ever  on  wood  of  the  third 
year.  Therefore,  in  pruning,  leave  a  supply  of  young  shoots  on 
all  the  branches  from  the  origin  to  the  extremity  of  the  tree, 
for  next  year's  bearers. 

All  kinds  of  Cherry-trees,  except  the  Morello,  are  apt  to 
grow  very  tall.  To  remedy  this,  and  to  enable  th6m  to  form 
handsome  heads,  the  leading  shoot  should  be  cut  off  when  of 
about  three  years'  growth  from  the  bud ;  after  which  give  only 
occasional  pruning,  to  reform  or  remove  any  casual  irregularity 
from  cross-placed  or  very  crowded  branches,  and  take  away  all 
cankery  and  decayed  wood. 

Dwarf  Cherry-trees  may  be  introduced  into  the  Kitchen- 
Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers.  When  Morellos  are  planted 


70  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

in  an  orchard,  they  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
apart.  Trees  of  the  duke  kind  may  be  planted  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  feet  apart ;  and  the  heart-shaped,  in  general,  will 
require  to  be  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from  each  other,  or  from 
any  spreading  trees. 

Cherry-trees  may  be  removed  the  first  year  after  the  bud  is 
established ;  but  they  will  bear  removal  at  any  time  before 
they  come  into  bearing,  which  is  about  the  fifth  year. 

The  gum  which  exudes  from  Cherry-trees  is  equal  to  Gum- 
Arabic ;  and  Hasselquist  relates,  "  that  more  than  one  hundred 
men  during  a  siege,  were  kept  alive  for  nearly  two  months, 
without  any  other  sustenance  than  a  little  of  this  gum  taken 
sometimes  into  the  mouth,  and  suffered  gradually  to  dissolve." 
The  wood  of  the  wild  Cherry-tree  is  hard  and  tough,  and  used 
by  turners  and  cabinet-makers. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  CHERRIES. 

DUKE    AND    ROUND    FRUIT. 

AMBREE  DE  CHOISY,  Belle  de  Choisy  of  Downing.  Cerise. 
Doucette,  Cerise  de  la  Palembre  of  the  French  gardens.  A 
middle  size  roundish  fruit,  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 
Skin  transparent,  red,  mottled  with  amber ;  flesh  amber-color- 
ed, tender,  and  sweet.  It  bears  well  as  a  standard,  and  ripens 
its  fruit  in  June. 

ARCHDUKE,  Royal  Duke,  Cfriotte  de  Portugal,  Portugal  Duke. 
A  large  globular-formed  red  cherry ;  like  the  May  Duke,  it 
grows  in  clusters,  but  the  tree  grows  more  vigorously  than  that 
variety,  and  yields  an  abundance  of  fruit,  which  hangs  a  long 
time  on  the  tree,  improving  in  flavor  in  July. 

BELLE  ET  MAGNIFIQUE.  A  fine  round  cherry,  much  esteemed 
in  Massachusetts.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  productive ;  the 
fruit  truly  magnificent ;  its'  color  red,  mottled  with  white  spots, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  7l 

and  abounding  in  acid ;  valuable  from  its  late  maturity  in 
July. 

CARNATION,  Cerise  Nouvelle  cF Angleterre,  ana  Cerise  de  Por- 
tugal, of  Downing.  Late  Spanish,  Griotte  d'Espagne,  and 
Griotte  de  Villenes,  of  Prince.  Fruit  round,  of  a  pale  red 
color ;  flesh  firm,  with  a  very  good-flavored  juice ;  makes  ex- 
cellent preserves,  and  is  good  for  the  table  in  July. 

DOWNER'S  LATE  RED,  Downer's  Favorite.  A  large  round 
cherry,  deserving  a  place  in  every  garden,  raised  by  S.  Downer, 
Esq.,  of  Dorchester,  Massachusetts ;  color  light  red ;  flesh  firm 
and  of  a  fine  sprightly  flavor;  ripening  after  most  other  supe- 
rior varieties  are  gone,  on  which  account  this  variety  is  highly 
prized  in  the  markets. 

CHERRIES. 

KENTISH,  Early  Kentish,  Early  Richmond,  Virginian  May, 
Long  Stem  Montmorency,  Montmorency  a  longue  queue.  Mr. 
Prince  says  that  other  varieties  are  sold  erroneously  under  the 
above  names.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  round  ;  skin  red ; 
flesh  sprightly  acid;  juice  abundant;  excellent  for  the  table 
and  kitchen.  It  will  hang  long  on  the  tree,  in  favorable  wea- 
ther, in  June  and  July. 

LATE  DUKE,  Cerise  Anglaise  tardive,  Unique  nouvelle.  Fruit 
large,  above  the  size  of  a  May  Duke;  obtuse  heart-shaped, 
rather  flat ;  skin  a  shining  dark  red ;  flesh  amber-colored, 
tender,  juicy,  and  high  flavored.  Tree  a  great  bearer,  and 
ripens  its  fruit  in  July. 

MAT  DUKE,  Early  Duke,  and  Cerise  Guigne  of  Downing. 
Holmarfs  Duke,  June  Duke,  Griotte  de  Portugal,  and  Royale 
hative,  of  Prince.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  growing  in 
clusters ;  the  skin,  when  fully  ripe,  very  dark  red ;  the  flesh  is 
soft  and  juicy,  with  a  very  pleasant  acid.  This  excellent  variety 
ripens  about  the  middle  of  June. 

MORELLO,  English  Morello,  Milan,  Cerise  du  nord,  Griotte 
du  nord.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  round ;  of  a  dark  red  color, 


72  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

nearly  black  at  maturity ;  flesh  deep  red,  tender,  juicy,  and 
blended  with  an  agreeable  acid ;  ripe  in  July,  and  hangs  some 
time  on  the  tree.  This  variety  is  excellent  for  preserves  and 
for  brandy. 

PLUMSTONE  MORELLO.  A  tree  of  moderate  size,  of  the  Duke 
or  Kentish  species ;  a  very  large,  dark,  round  cherry,  nearly 
black;  of  a  rich  acid  flavor.  The  stone  is  very  large,  and 
resembles  that  of  a  plum ;  a  native  of  Virginia,  introduced  by 
William  Prince,  of  the  Linnsean  Botanic  Garden,  Flushing. 

WATERLOO.  A  large,  roundish,  dark  cherry,  inclining  to 
black  at  maturity ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  of  an  excellent  flavor ; 
raised  by  a  daughter  of  Mr.  Knight,  and  so  named  from  perfect- 
ing its  fruit  soon  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  The  tree  is  of 
strong  but  irregular  growth,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  July. 


HEART-SHAPED    AND    BIGARREAUX. 

AMERICAN  AMBER,  Early  Amber,  New  Honey.  A  beautiful 
heart-shaped  cherry,  of  medium  size,  and  dark  pink  or  amber 
color;  flesh  rich,  sweet,  and  excellent.  It  ripens  early  in  June. 

AMERICAN  HEART,  Arden's  White  Heart.  A  medium-sized 
cherry,  of  pale  yellowish  color;  obtuse  heart-shaped,  flesh 
tender  and  palatable,  but  not  high  flavored.  The  tree,  which 
ripens  its  fruit  in  June,  is  very  productive. 

BELLE  DE  ROCMONT,  Bigarreau  de  Rocmont,  Oceur  de  pigeon, 
Flesh  Col.  Bigarreau.  A  beautiful  heart-shaped  fruit,  of  pale 
yellowish  and  red  color,  marbled  and  glossy ;  flesh  firm,  white ; 
juice  sprightly  and  of  an  agreeable  flavor :  in  June  and  July. 

BIGARREAU,  Black.  Manning's  Black  Bigarreau.  This 
variety  is  considered  highly  deserving  a  place  in  every  good  col- 
lection ;  it  originated  in  Mr.  Manning's  nursery  at  Salem ;  the 
fruit  is  large,  color  black ;  flesh  sweet,  and  of  a  peculiar  rich 
flavor.  The  tree  grows  handsome,  is  very  productive,  and 
ripens  its  fruit  in  July. 

BIGARREAU,  Graffion,  Turkey  Bigarreau,  Yellow  Spanish, 
White  Bigarreau,  Imperial  Guigne  Ambree,  White  Orleans. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  73 

Very  large,  obtuse,  heart-shaped ;  yellowish-amber  color,  but 
fine  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  firm,  white,  sweet,  and  well  flavored ; 
a  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit :  ripe  in  June  and  July.  This 
variety  commands  the  highest  price  in  market. 

BIGARREAU  WHITE,  White  Oxheart,  and  Harrison's  Heart, 
of  Downing.  White  Bigarreau  Tradescant,  and  Bigarreau 
blanc  le  gros,  of  Prince.  Fruit  large ;  obtuse  heart-shaped ;  of 
pale  yellow  and  white  color,  mottled  with  red ;  flesh  white, 
and  well  flavored  ;  ripe  in  June  and  July. 

BLACK  EAGLE.  A  beautiful  variety,  raised  by  Miss  Knight, 
of  Downton  Castle,  1806 ;  fruit  of  globular  form,  and  middle 
size ;  skin  dark  purple,  or  nearly  black ;  flesh  very  tender,  rich, 
and  of  excellent  flavor.  The  tree  grows  strong,  very  upright, 
and  ripens  its  fruit  early. 

BLACK  HEART,  Guignier  a  Fruit  noir.  Fruit  rather  large, 
heart-shaped,  dark  purple,  approaching  to  black  at  maturity ; 
flesh  dark  red,  tender,  of  excellent  flavor ;  ripe  early  in  July. 
Tree  a  good  bearer. 

BLACK  TARTARIAN,  Slack  Circassian,  Fraser's  Black  Tar- 
tarian, Black  Russian,  Ronald's  Large  Black  Heart,  Fraser's 
Black  Heart.  A  very  large  heart-shaped  fruit,  -of  a  most  supe- 
rior quality ;  color  dark- shining  purple  or  black ;  flesh  firm, 
dark  red  or  purple ;  sweet,  and  of  most  excellent  flavor  :  in  June 
and  July.  The  tree  grows  rapidly  and  is  very  productive. 

DAVENPORT'S  EARLY  BLACK,  New  May  Duke.  This  variety 
is  considered  as  one  of  the  finest  and  most  productive  of  early 
cherries  known.  The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  heart-shaped,  of 
a  dark  glossy  black  color ;  flesh  firm,  and  of  a  pleasant  sub-acid 
flavor.  It  ripens  a  week  or  ten  days  earlier  than  the  May  Duke. 

ELKHORN,  Black  Oxheart,  Tradescanf  s  Black,  Bigarreau 
gros  noir,  Large  Black  Bigarreau.  A  large  black,  heart-shaped 
cherry,  well  suited  to  bear  carriage  to  market  from  the  firmness 
of  its  flesh.  This  variety  ripens  the  second  and  third  week  in 
July,  when  other  kinds  are  scarce. — (Prince.) 

ELTON.  This  excellent  variety  was  raised  by  Mr.  Knight  in 
1806;  the  tree  is  very  vigorous  and  productive;  the  fruit  ia 


V4  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

pretty  large,  heart-shaped ;  pale  glossy  yellow  in  the  shade,  but 
marbled  with  bright  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  and 
rich ;  ripens  soon  after  the  May  Duke. 

FLORENCE.  A  very  fine  heart-shaped  cherry ;  of  a  yellow 
amber  color,  marbled  with  bright  red  in  the  shade,  bright  red 
next  the  sun  ;  flesh  tolerably  firm,  juicy,  rich,  and  sweet :  ripe 
end  of  June  and  in  July. 

GRIDLEF,  Apple  Cherry.  A  native  fruit  of  medium  size, 
•which  originated  on  the  farm  of  Mr.  Gridley,  of  Roxbury,  neai 
Boston  ;  the  color  is  black,  the  flesh  firm,  and  of  a  fine  flavor : 
in  July.  The  tree  grows  vigorous,  and  is  very  productive. 

KNIGHT'S  EARLY  BLACK.  The  blossoms  of  this  variety  ap- 
pear very  early ;  its  fruit  resembles  the  Waterloo ;  of  a  rich 
dark  hue ;  its  flesh  is  firm,  juicy,  and  abundantly  sweet :  by 
the  middle  of  June. 

MAZZARD,  BLACK.  This  cherry  grows  wild,  and  is  cultivated 
also  in  abundance  in  various  parts  of  England.  It  is  the  prin- 
cipal fruit  employed  for  the  making  of  cherry  brandy,  and  the 
stocks  of  the  species  are  best  adapted  for  nursery-men  to  bud 
and  graft  the  better  kinds  on. 

NAPOLEON  BIGARREAU,  Bigarreau  Napoleon,  Lauermann, 
Gros  Bigarreau  de  Lauermann.  The  tree  of  this  variety  is  re- 
markable for  the  vigor  and  beauty  of  its  growth ;  it  produces  a 
fine  large  white  fruit  with  red  spots ;  the  flesh  is  remarkably 
white,  solid,  and  of  a  sweet,  agreeable  flavor :  early  in  July. 

WHITE  BIGARREAU.  Mr.  Manning  represents  this  as  one  of 
the  largest  and  finest  cherries  known.  The  form  is  obtuse, 
heart-shaped ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek ;  flesh 
very  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  fine  flavored  :  ripe  in  July.  Mr. 
Manning  observes  that  this  variety  has  the  reputation  of  being 
a  shy  bearer,  but  that  in  his  orchard  it  yields  an  abundance  of 
fruit ;  and  that,  owing  to  the  hardness  of  its  flesh,  it  is  not  liable 
to  injury  from  birds.  On  this  account,  he  says,  it  is  highly 
deserving  of  cultivation. 

WHITE  HEART,  Remington  White  Heart,  Late  White  Heart. 
A  moderate-sized  cherry,  of  pleasant  flavor ;  chiefly  valuable 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  75 

lor  its  very  late  maturity,  being  towards  the  end  of  August. 
It  is  said  to  have  originated  in  Rhode  Island. 

WHITE  TARTARIAN,  White  Transparent  Crimea,  Fraser's 
White,  Guigne  de  Russie  blanc.  A  beautiful  cherry,  pale  yel- 
low, approaching  to  amber  next  the  sun ;  a  much-admired 
fruit,  of  excellent  flavor ;  a  good  bearer,  ripening  early  in  July. 

ALLEN'S  SWEET  MONTMORENCY,  Late  Montmorency.  A  seed- 
ling raised  by  J.  F.  Allen,  Esq.,  of  Salem,  Massachusetts. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  nearly  round  ;  skin  pale  amber,  mottled 
with  red ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  sweet,  and  excellent.  It  is  a 
good  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  late  in  July. 

BAUMANN'S  MAY,  Wilder's  Bigarreau  de  Mai.  A  very 
early  variety  imported  by  Col.  Wilder ;  fruit  rather  small,  oval 
heart-shaped  ;  skin  deep  rich  red ;  flesh,  when  fully  ripe,  sweet 
and  good ;  ripe  by  the  end  of  May. 

BIGARREAU  CHINA,  Chinese  Heart.  A  fine  variety  raised  by 
the  late  Mr.  W.  Prince,  of  Flushing,  L.  I.  Fruit  of  medium 
size,  oval  heart-shaped,  with  a  distinct  suture  line ;  skin,  when 
fully  ripe,  glossy  red,  mottled  with  numerous  light  spots ;  flesh 
firm,  and  of  a  rich  peculiar  flavor :  late  in  July. 

BIGARREAU  HOLLAND,  Spotted  Bigarreau,  Armstrong's  Bigar~ 
reau.  Fruit  very  large,  of  a  regular  heart-shape ;  skin  pale 
yellow,  mottled  and  spotted  with  bright  red  ;  flesh  juicy,  sweet, 
and  excellent :  towards  the  end  of  June. 

BIGARREAU  TARDIF  DE  HILDESHEIM,  Hildesheim  Bigarreau. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  heart-shaped  ;  skin  yellow,  mottled,  and 
marbled  with  red ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  firm,  with  a  sweet  and 
agreeable  flavor.  This  variety  ripens  here  in  August,  and  is 
considered  by  Thompson  the  latest  sweet  cherry  known. 

DOWNING' s  RED  CHEEK.  An  excellent  seedling  cherry  raised 
at  the  nursery  of  A.  J.  Downing,  Newburgh.  Fruit  rather 
large,  regularly  obtuse  heart-shaped ;  skin  thin,  white,  with  a 
rich  dark  crimson  cheek ;  flesh  yellowish,  of  a  sweet  and  lus- 
cious flavor  :  about  the  middle  of  June. 

DOWNTON.  A  beautiful  variety  raised  by  T.  A.  Knight,  of 
Downton  Castle,  England.  Fruit  very  large,  blunt  heart- 


76  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

shaped ;  skin  cream-color,  stained  and  marbled  with  red  dots ; 
a  delicious  cherry  early  in  July. 

EARLY  PURPLE  GUIGNE,  Early  Purple  Griotte.  An  early 
variety  ripening  towards  the  end  of  May,  newly  introduced 
from  England.  Fruit  of  medium  size;  sMn  dark  red  and 
purple ;  flesh  purple,  tender,  juicy,  and  delicious. 

MANNING'S  MOTTLED,  Mottled  Bigarreau.  A  beautiful  heart 
cherry,  raised  by  Mr.  Manning  from  a  seed  of  the  Bigarreau  ; 
fruit  above  medium  size,  roundish  heart-shaped ;  skin  glossy 
amber  color,  mottled  with  red ;  flesh,  when  fully  ripe,  yellow 
and  tender,  with  a  delicious  juice  :  ripens  late  in  June. 

TRANSPARENT  GUIGNE,  Transparent  Gean,  Transparent. 
Fruit  small,  borne  in  pairs,  and  heart-shaped  ;  skin  glossy,  thin, 
and  nearly  transparent ;  color  yellowish  white,  delicately  mot- 
tled with  fine  red ;  flesh  tender,  melting,  and  sweet :  ripe  early 
in  July. 


CHESTNUT. 

CHATAIGNER.     Castanea. 

The  Chestnut  is  well  known  as  a  large  tree,  spreading  ita 
branches  finely  where  it  has  room ;  but  planted  closely,  will 
shoot  up  straight  to  a  great  height.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  originally  from  Sardis.  It  is  so  common  as  to  be  con- 
sidered a  native  of  France  and  Italy,  and  some  consider  it  as 
naturalized  in  England.  It  is  also  indigenous  in  America. 
The  London  catalogues  contain  the  names  of  thirty-two  sorts 
under  cultivation.  The  Chestnut  is,  like  the  Walnut,  both  a 
timber  and  fruit-tree.  Some  of  the  oldest  trees  in  the  world' 
are  of  this  species.  The  American  Chestnut  differs  so  little 
from  the  European,  that  no  specific  distinction  can  be  drawn. 
It  is  one  of  the  largest  trees  of  the  forest,  the  wood  being 
extremely  durable,  and  in  high  esteem  for  posts  and  rails  to 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  77 

construct  fences ;  and  the  nuts  are  very  delicious.  The 
Castanea  pumila,  or  Chinquapin  nut,  is  a  small  tree,  or  rather 
shrub,  growing  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet  in  the  Southern 
States,  but  seldom  exceeding  ten  in  cold  latitudes.  The  fruit 
is  very  sweet  and  agreeable  to  eat. 

There  is  a  variety  with  striped  leaves,  which  is  very  orna- 
mental. The  most  esteemed  of  the  French  kinds  are  called 
Marron.  Some  excellent  fruit-bearing  varieties  are  cultivated 
in  England,  France,  Italy,  and  Spain,  as  also  in  other  parts 
of  Europe. 

MANNER    OF    PROPAGATING. 

Chestnuts  are  increased  by  grafting  or  budding  in  the  usual 
methods  ;  but  the  plants  for  coppice  wood,  or  timber,  are  best 
raised  from  nuts.  Some  varieties  ripen  their  fruit  a  few  days 
earlier  than  others ;  but  none  of  these  have  been  fixed  on  or 
perpetuated  by  nursery-men  so  as  to  render  them  available  to 
purchasers.  The  fruit  is  a  desirable  nut  for  autumn  or  winter, 
and  is  eaten  roasted  with  salt,  and  sometimes  raw ;  and  in 
some  countries  it  is  not  only  boiled  and  roasted,  but  ground  into 
meal ;  and  puddings,  cakes,  and  bread  are  made  from  it. 

Chestnut-trees  will  not  succeed  on  wet,  nor  on  heavy  soils. 
The  largest  and  finest  trees  are  found  on  high  ridges  of  clayey 
loam,  gravelly  loam,  or  sandy  loam.  By  pruning  the  trees 
and  keeping  the  .soil  cultivated  around  them,  as  far,  or  farther 
than  the  lateral  branches  extend,  the  fruit  may  be  greatly 
increased  both  in  quantity  and  quality. 

In  order  to  raise  trees  from  the  nuts,  select  the  largest  and 
fairest  specimens  as  soon  as  they  fall  from  the  tree,  and  keep 
them  where  they  will  not  become  very  dry  until  late  autumn, 
when  the  nuts  must  be  planted  in  well  prepared  soil  in  drills, 
and  covered  two  inches  deep  with  mould  or  fine  street  dirt. 
If  the  nuts  are  allowed  to  dry,  their  vitality  will  be  destroyed. 
It  is  essential  to  their  vegetation  that  the  nuts  freeze  and  thaw 
during  winter.  The  fruit  is  better  to  remain  on  the  trees  till 
the  frost  has  opened  the  burrs. 


78  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

ALMOND. 

AMANDIER.     Amygdalus. 

Although  Almonds  are  not  much  cultivated  in  this  part  of 
our  country,  they  are  entitled  to  notice.  The  species  are  fruit- 
trees,  or  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  both  much  esteemed  for 
the  gay  color  and  early  appearance  of  their  flowers.  These  vary 
in  their  color  from  the  fine  blush  of  the  apple-blossom  to  a 
snowy  whiteness.  The  chief  obvious  distinction  is  in  the 
fruit,  which  is  flatter,  with  a  coriaceous  covering,  instead  of 
the  rich  pulp  of  the  Peach  and  Nectarine,  opening  spontane- 
ously when  the  kernel  is  ripe.  It  is  a  native  of  Barbary,  China, 
and  most  eastern  countries.  There  are  twelve  sorts  described 
in  the  catalogue  of  the  Linnaean  Botanic  Garden  at  Flush- 
ing ;  some  of  which  are  represented  as  new  varieties  from 
France  and  Italy,  where  they  are  cultivated  extensively  for 
their  fruit. 

In  France,  they  have  above  a  dozen  species  or  varieties, 
besides  a  hybrid  called  the  Almond  Peach.  The  common  and 
bitter  Almond  are  only  to  be  distinguished  by  the  taste  of  the 
kernels  of  their  fruit,  which  is  the  only  part  used.  The  tender- 
shelled  is  in  the  greatest  esteem,  and  next,  the  Sweet  and  Jor- 
dan. The  bitter  cuticle  or  skin  of  Almonds  is  taken  off  by 
immersion  in  boiling  water.  The  sweet  Almond  and  other 
varieties  are  used  as  a  dessert  in  a  green  or  imperfectly  ripe, 
and  also  in  a  ripe  or  dried  state.  They  are  much  used  in 
cookery,  confectionery,  perfumery,  and  medicine. 

The  Almond  is  propagated  by  seed  for  varieties  or  for 
stocks ;  and  by  budding  on  its  own  or  on  Plum-stocks  for  con- 
tinuing varieties.  The  Almond-tree  bears  chiefly  on  the  young 
wood  of  the  previous  year,  and  in  part  upon  small  spurs  or 
minor  branches.  It  is  therefore  pruned  like  the  Apricot  and 
Peach,  and  its  culture  in  other  respects  is  the  same. 


FKUIT-GARDENING.  79 

CRANBERRY. 

CANNEBERGE.     Oxycoccus. 

This  genus  of  plants  is  well  distinguished  from  the  Vac- 
cinium,  or  Whortleberry,  by  the  narrow  revolute  segments  of 
corolla ;  and  are  pretty  little  trailing  evergreen  plants,  to  which 
a  peat  soil  or  rather  moist  situations  are  absolutely  necessary. 
They  are  very  little  changed  by  culture. 

The  Oxycoccus  macrocarpus  is  a  red  acid  fruit,  highly  valued 
as  a  sweetmeat,  or  for  tarts.  It  is  well  known  that  this  excel- 
lent fruit  grows  in  many  parts  of  our  country  spontaneously, 
and  that  the  mere  gathering  of  it  is  all  that  bountiful  nature 
requires  at  our  hands  ;  but  it  is  well  worth  cultivating  where 
there  are  none.  This  fruit  will  keep  a  whole  year,  if  properly 
preserved  in  closely  covered  stone  jars,  and  is  considered  by 
many  as  superior  to  the  best  currant  jelly,  and  may  be  kept 
for  many  months  in  a  raw  state  without  injury. 

The  Oxycoccus  palustris  bears  edible  berries,  which  are 
gathered  wild  both  in  England  and  Scotland,  and  made  into 
tarts.  Lightfoot  says,  that  twenty  or  thirty  pounds'  worth  are 
sold  each  market-day,  for  five  or  six  weeks  together,  in  the 
town  of  Langtown,  on  the  borders  of  Cumberland.  Nicol 
says  the  American  species  is  more  easily  cultivated  than  the 
English,  but  is  inferior  to  it  in  flavor.  There  is  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  the  quality  of  fruit  of  each  of  these  species  is  sub- 
ject to  variations,  which  have  not  yet  been  practically  distin- 
guished. Their  cultivation  is  now  so  well  understood  that 
both  may  be  considered  with  propriety  as  inmates  of  the  fruit- 
garden.  Some  raise  them  from  seed  sown  early  in  the  spring ; 
but  it  is  best  to  set  out  plants,  and  lay  the  runners  as  they  pro- 
gress in  growth. 

It  is  customary  in  England  to  prepare  beds  on  the  edges  of 
ponds,  which  are  banked  up  so  as  to  admit  of  the  wet  getting 
underneath  them  ;  bog  or  peat-earth  is  considered  essential  for 
the  roots  to  run  in  ;  but  it  has  been  discovered  that  they  can 
be  cultivated  in  damp  situations  in  a  garden,  with  a  top-dress- 


80  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

ing  of  peat  or  bog-earth ;  and  if  they  are  once  suited  as  to 
the  soil,  the  plants  will  multiply  so  as  to  cover  the  bed  in  the 
course  of  a  year  or  two,  by  means  of  their  long  runners,  which 
take  root  at  different  points.  From  a  very  small  space  a  very 
large  quantity  of  Cranberries  may  be  gathered ;  and  they 
prove  a  remarkably  regular  crop,  scarcely  affected  by  the  state 
of  the  weather,  and  not  subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects.  Sir 
Joseph  Banks  gives  an  account  of  his  success  in  cultivating 
this  fruit.  "  In  one  year,  from  326  square  feet,  or  a  bed  about 
eighteen  feet  square,  three  and  a  half  Winchester  bushels  of 
berries  were  produced,  which,  at  five  bottles  to  the  gallon, 
gives  one  hundred  and  forty  bottles,  each  sufficient  for  one 
Cranberry-pie,  from  two  and  a  half  square  feet." 

Cranberries  thrive  best  in  a  wet  soil,  but  will  grow  on  almost 
any  land,  by  giving  it  a  top-dressing  of  peat,  bog,  or  swamp- 
earth.  As  soon  as  such  ground  can  be  brought  into  tillable 
condition,  get  plants  that  were  produced  from  layers  of  the 
last  season,  and  set  them  out  in  rows  about  two  feet  apart ; 
they  will  soon  cover  the  ground  by  their  runners,  which,  on 
being  laid,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  plants  well  adapted 
for  additional  plantations  in  succeeding  years. 


CURRANT, 
i 

GROSSEILLER  A  GRAPPES.     JRibes. 

This  is  a  genus  of  well-known  shrubs,  much  cultivated  for  the 
fruit.  It  is  a  native  of  the  northern  parts  of  Europe,  and  found 
in  hedges  and  woods  in  England ;  and  there  are  some  species 
indigenous  in  America.  The  fruit,  being  of  an  agreeable  sub- 
acid  taste,  is  generally  relished  both  as  a  dessert  and  in  pies 
and  tarts.  It  is  also  much  used  in  making  wine,  and  is  grown 
to  a  considerable  extent  for  that  purpose.  There  are  ten  species 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  81 

cultivated  in  the  garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London, 
comprising  twelve  varieties  of  red,  ten  of  white,  five  kinds  of 
black,  together  with  a  champagne,  mountain,  rock,  upright,  and 
Pennsylvanian.  Any  number  of  varieties  of  the  red  and  white 


Red  Dutch  Currants. 

may  be  procured  from  sowing  the  seed ;  but  they  are  generally 
propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  last  year's  wood,  which  should  be 
of  sufficient  length  to  form  handsome  plants,  with  a  clear  stem 
ten  inches  high,  which  may  be  planted  immediately  upon  losing 
their  leaves  in  autumn,  or  very  early  the  ensuing  spring. 

The  Currant  will  grow  in  almost  every  soil,  but  succeeds  best 
in  one  loamy  and  rich.  The  best  flavored  fruit  is  produced 
from  plants  in  an  open  situation ;  but  they  will  grow  under  tho 
shades  of  walls  or  trees,  and  either  as  low  bushes,  or  trained 
as  espaliers.  They  bear  chiefly  on  spurs,  and  on  young  wood 
of  from  one  to  three  years'  growth ;  and  therefore,  in  pruning, 
most  of  the  young  wood  should  be  cut  to  within  two  or  three 
buds  of  that  where  it  originated.  After  the  plants  are  furnished 
with  full  heads  they  produce  many  superfluous  and  irregular 
shoots  every  summer,  crowding  the  general  bearers,  so  as  to 
require  regulating  and  curtailing,  both  in  the  young  growth  of 
the  year  and  in  older  wood. 

The  principal  part  of  the  work  may  be  done  in  winter,  or 
early  in  spring ;  but  a  preparatory  part  should  be  performed  in 
summer,  to  eradicate  suckers,  and  thin  the  superfluous  shoots 

of  the  year,  where  they  are  so  crowded  as  to  exclude  the  sun 

4* 


82 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


and  air  from  the  fruit.  In  training  espaliers,  and  for  standards, 
two  branches  are  trained  in  a  horizontal  direction  along  the 
bottom  of  the  trellis,  perhaps  half  a  foot  from  the  surface  of  the 
earth;  and  the  growth  from  these,  or  of  all  upright  shoots, 


Cherry  Currants. 


which  will  admit  of  being  arranged  at  the  distance  of  five  or 
six  inches  from  each  other,  is  encouraged.  Fan  standards  are 
sometimes  trained  with  the  branches  radiating  from  the  crown 
of  the  stem. 

The  black  Currant,  or  Ribes  nigrum,  is  common  in  moist 
woods  in  Russia  and  Siberia,  and  in  certain  localities  in  America. 
Its  culture  is  similar  to  that  of  the  red ;  but  as  it  is  less  apt  to 
bear  in  spurs  than  on  young  wood,  the  shoots  should  not  be  so 
much  shortened  in  this  as  in  the  other. 

Currant  bushes  should  be  planted  at  different  distances, 
according  to  the  situation  and  mode  of  training.  When  planted 
in  beds,  borders,  or  squares,  they  should  be  six  feet  apart,  but 
if  trained  as  espaliers  they  may  be  eight  feet  apart.  Many 
people  dislike  the  flavor  of  black  Currants.  They  are  therefore 
not  much  used  in  the  kitchen  as  dessert,  and  seldom  in  wine- 
making.  They  make  a  jelly  or  jam,  in  estimation  as  a  gargle 
for  inflammatory  sore  throats.  In  Russia  and  Siberia  wine  is 
made  of  the  berries  alone,  or  fermented  with  honey,  and  with 
or  without  spirits. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  83 

HOW    TO    START    NEW    BUSHES    FROM    CUTTINGS. 

Select  the  sprouts  that  grew  the  previous  season,  and  cut  off 
the  butt-end,  retaining  about  eight  or  ten  inches  of  the  top-end. 
Cover  the  butt-end  with  grafting-wax,  and  transplant  them  with 
a  dibble,  at  least  six  inches  deep,  in  soil  thoroughly  pulverized 
and  enriched.  Press  the  earth  gently  around  the  cuttings,  and 
spread  straw  or  some  other  material  around  them  to  keep  the 
ground  moist,  to  promote  the  growth  of  roots.  All  the  buds 
should  be  pinched  off  the  cuttings  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  if  the  bush  is  to  be  trained  to  a  single  stem.  If  the 
buds  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  be  not  removed,  strong 
shoots  will  spring  from  them,  which  will  overgrow  the  main 
stem.  If  currant  bushes  be  well  pruned,  the  soil  around  them 
kept  in  a  good  state  of  fertility,  weeds  and  grass  subdued,  and 
the  fruit  thinned  out  properly  before  it  has  attained  much  size, 
currants  may  be  produced  twice  as  large  as  they  usually  grow. 


SELECT  DESCRITIVE  LIST  OF  CURRANTS. 

BLACK  ENGLISH,  Common  BlacJc.  This  species  is  most 
generally  cultivated  in  private  gardens  for  medicinal  purposes ; 
the  berries  are  plentiful,  of  large  size,  and  frequently  hang  on 
the  bush  two  months,  improving  in  flavor. 

BLACK  NAPLES.  In  this  variety  the  fruit  is  larger,  the  clus- 
ters more  numerous,  and  each  cluster  produces  more  berries 
than  the  ordinary  kinds,  on  which  account  it  is  highly  es- 
teemed. 

CHAMPAGNE.  The  berries  of  this  variety  are  of  a  pale  red 
color,  which,  being  transparent,  causes  it  to  be  generally  esti- 
mated as  a  dessert  fruit.  It  is  a  prolific  bearer. 

LARGE  RED,  Red  Dutch.  This  is  the  most  desirable  kind 
of  the  red-fruited  currant  cultivated ;  the  bush,  when  properly 
trained  and  pruned,  grows  strong  and  upright,  and  produces 
an  abundance  of  fine  large  berries. 


84  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

WHITE  CRYSTAL,  White  Grape.  An  excellent  variety,  the 
berries  of  which  are  large,  and  of  a  beautiful  clear  transparent 
brilliancy  ;  hence  its  name. 

WHITE  DUTCH.  This  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  for 
different  purposes ;  the  clusters  and  berries  are  large,  of  a  yel- 
lowish-white color,  and  delicious  flavor.  The  bushes  are 
often  so  productive  that  the  branches  of  the  bearing-wood  trail 
beneath  the  weight  of  the  fruit. 

MISSOURI  CURRANT.  This  species  is  quite  distinct  from  the 
ordinary  kinds ;  its  berries  are  purple,  and  although  of  rather 
agreeable  flavor,  they  are  not  to  be  compared  with  those 
under  general  cultivation. 

To  these  may  be  added  Knight's  Sweet  Red,  Wilmofs  Large 
Red,  Wentworth  Red,  Victoria,  and  Green  Fruited,  and  some 
other  kinds. 

Some  nursery-men's  catalogues  contain  many  other  names,  a 
great  proportion  of  which  are,  probably,  a  repetition  of  the 
same  fruit.  Where  the  Currant  is  cultivated  for  the  purpose 
of  making  wine,  the  White  and  Red  Dutch  are  to  be  preferred 
to  all  others.  For  the  dessert,  the  White  Crystal  and  Cham- 
pagne are  great  favorites,  on  account  of  their  transparent 
clearness.  Those  bushes  growing  in  the  shade  produce  fruit 
much  inferior  to  what  it  would  be,  were  the  bushes,  exposed  to 
the  sunshine  and  air  during  most  of  the  day. 

The  Currant  Worm  which  destroys  the  bushes,  may  be 
exterminated  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  the 
extirpation  of  the  Gooseberry  Worm,  page  93,  which  see. 


FIG. 

FIGUIER.     Ficus  carica. 

The  Fig-tree  may  be  propagated  from  seed,  cuttings,  layers, 
suckers,  roots,  and  by  grafting ;  the  most  generally  approved 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  85 

method  is  by  layers  or  cuttings,  which  come  into  bearing  the 
second,  and  sometimes  the  first  year.  No  tree  is  more  robust 
or  more  prolific ;  even  plants  in  pots  or  tubs  kept  in  a  tem- 
perature adapted  for  the  Orange-tree,  will  fruit  freely,  and 
ripen  two  crops  a  year,  and  by  being  taken  care  of  through  the 
winter,  will  go  on  growing  and  ripening  fruit  without  inter- 
mission. Mr.  Knight  has  obtained  from  his  hot-house  in  Eng- 
land, eight  successive  crops  in  a  year,  by  bending  the  limbs 
in  a  position  below  the  horizontal.  The  trees  will  produce 
tolerable  crops  in  the  second  year  if  rung  or  decorticated.  Its 
maturity  is  also  hastened  by  pricking  the  fruit  with  a  straw 
or  quill  dipped  in  olive  oil,  or  even  by  slightly  touching  the 
fruit  with  oil,  at  the  finger's  end.  In  Fig  countries  the  fruit 
is  preserved  by  dipping  it  in  scalding  lye,  made  of  the  ashes 
of  the  Fig-tree  and  then  dried  in  the  sun. 

RINGING    OR   DECORTICATION. 

Girdling,  decortication,  ringing,  or  circumcision,  as  it  is 
sometimes  variously  called,  consists  in  making  two  circular 
incisions  quite  around  the  limb,  through  the  bark,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  asunder,  more  or  less, 
according  to  the  size  and  thickness  of  the  tree ;  then  by  mak- 
ing a  perpendicular  slit,  the  ring  of  the  bark  is  wholly  removed. 
Ringing  or  decortication  is  applicable  to  every  kind  of  fruit- 
tree,  and  to  the  vine.  Its  operation  is  twofold.  First,  in  the 
early  production  and  abundance  of  blossom-buds  which  it 
induces ;  and  second,  in  increasing  the  size  of  the  fruit  and 
hastening  its  maturity,  according  to  the  season  in  which  the 
operation  is  performed. 

When  Figs  are  cultivated  in  a  garden,  a  good  loamy  soil 
should  be  provided ;  and  they  may  be  trained  to  close  fences 
or  trellises,  in  sheltered  situations.  At  the  approach  of  winter 
they  must  be  protected ;  those  trained  to  close  fences  may  be 
secured  through  the  winter  by  a  covering  of  matting ;  and 
such  as  may  be  in  open  situations  should  be  liberated  from 
the  trellis,  and  laid  down  close  to  the  ground,  and  covered 


86  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

hree  or  four  inches  with  earth ;  or  trenches  may  be  formed 
of  that  depth  sufficient  to  contain  the  branches,  which  should 
be  fastened  down  with  hooked  pegs,  without  cramping  them  : 
such  of  the  strong  central  branches  as  will  not  bend  may  be 
enveloped  in  litter.  They  should  be  pruned  before  they  are 
laid  down  in  November,  and  on  being  raised  again  in  April, 
they  may  be  trained  as  before.  Figs  may  be  cultivated  in  pri- 
vate gardens  as  easily  as  the  vine. 

Those  persons  desirous  of  learning  the  names  of  different 
kinds  of  figs,  may  consult  the  descriptive  lists  of  nursery -men. 
The  fig-trees  at  Arundel  are  planted  six  or  eight  feet  apart, 
and  from  a  single  stem  allowed  to  continue  branching  conical 
heads,  pruning  chiefly  irregular  and  redundant  growths,  and 
cutting  out  decayed  or  injured  wood. 


FILBERT  AND  HAZEL-NUT. 

NOISETIER  AVELINIER.     Corylus. 

The  Filbert,  in  many  varieties,  and  also  the  common  Hazel- 
nut,  grow  spontaneously  in  the  woods  of  Britain,  and  some 
few  varieties  are  indigenous  in  this  country.  The  kinds  of 
Filberts  generally  cultivated  are  the  white,  red,  cob,  clustered, 
and  frizzled.  There  are  many  varieties  of  each.  As  this  shrub 
is  so  easily  cultivated,  it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment  that  the 
nuts  from  this  genus  of  plants  are  so  scarce  in  our  markets.  In 
different  parts  of  England  there  are  Filbert  orchards.  In  the 
Filbert  grounds  about  Maidstone,  in  Kent,  it  is  a  prevailing 
practice  to  cultivate  Hops,  standard  Apples,  and  Cherries, 
among  the  Filberts.  When  these  come  into  a  bearing  state, 
the  Hops  are  taken  up  and  transplanted  elsewhere,  and  the 
fruit-trees  only  suffered  to  remain.  The  spare  ground  is  then 
planted  with  Gooseberries,  Currants,  etc.  The  Red  Filbert  is 
allowed  to  have  a  finer  flavor  than  the  White.  The  Cob-nut 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  87 

is  large,  with  a  thick  shell ;  but  the  kernel  is  sweet  and  of  con- 
siderable size.  The  Barcelona  is  a  good  large  nut,  witl  a  thin 
shell.  The  Cosford  is  very  sweet,  kernels  well,  and  the  tree  is 
a  great  bearer.  The  Bond  Nut  and  the  Lambert  Nut  are  of 
large  size,  roundish  shape,  and  very  prolific  bearers.  The 
Frizzled  Filbert  is  highly  esteemed.  It  is  beautiful  when  in  the 
husk,  and  its  flavor  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  White  Fil- 
bert; the  shell  of  which  is  also  thin,  and  its  kernel  sweet  and 
fine. 

All  the  different  kinds  may  be  grown  as  dwarf  standards ; 
or  they  will  bear  well  if  planted  in  clumps.  But  as  they  pro- 
duce an  abundance  of  suckers,  these  should  be  parted  off  fre- 
quently, and  planted  in  a  nursery-bed  for  stocks,  as  the  bear- 
ing plants  will  cease  to  produce  fruit  in  any  quantity,  if  the 
suckers  are  allowed  to  form  a  thick  bush.  They  may  be  pro- 
pagated by  seed,  by  suckers,  by  layers,  or  by  grafting  in  the 
spring  upon  seedling  or  sucker-stocks. 

The  Filbert  bears  principally  upon  the  sides  of  the  upper 
young  branches,  and  upon  small  shoots  which  proceed  from 
the  bases  of  side-branches  cut  off  the  preceding  year.  The 
leading  shoot  is  every  year  to  be  shortened,  and  every  shoot 
that  is  left  to  produce  fruit  should  be  clipped ;  which  prevents 
the  tree  from  being  exhausted  in  making  wood  at  the  end  of 
the  branch.  Such  branches  as  may  have  borne  fruit  must  be 
cut  out  every  year,  in  order  to  promote  the  growth  of  a  sup- 
ply of  young  fruit-bearing  branches. 

Filberts  and  hazel  nuts  cannot  be  profitably  grown  in  our 
cold  climate,  except  on  a  small  scale  within  a  good  forcing- 
house.  For  this  reason,  it  will  be  folly  for  any  one  to  attempt 
to  raise  an  abundant  crop  of  these  nuts  in  a  climate  like  New 
England  and  the  Northern  States.  Fruit  and  flowers  of  any 
kind  that  are  not  adapted  to  the  climate  will  not  grow  profit- 
ably, even  when  the  cultivation  is  of  a  superior  character. 
What  is  true  of  filberts  and  hazel  nuts,  is  equally  true  of  many 
other  productions  of  the  farm  and  garden. 


88 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


GOOSEBERRY. 


GROSEILLER.     Ribes  grossularia,  uva,  crispa,  etc. 

The  Gooseberry  green,  the  first  fruit  of  the  year, 
In  pudding  or  pie,  affords  exquisite  cheer ; 
But  e'en  should  the  season  their  pleasure  forefend, 
In  such  a  dilemma,  green  JthubarVs  a  friend. 

The  Gooseberry  is  a  native  Of  several  parts  of  Europe,  and 
is  indigenous  in  America,  as  far  north  as  68°.  It  is  cultivated 
to  greater  perfection  in  England  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world.  In  Spain  and  Italy  this  fruit  is  scarcely  known.  In 
France  it  is  neglected.  In  Lancashire,  England,  and  some 


A  Cluster  of  Houghton's  Seedling. 

parts  of  the  adjoining  counties,  almost  every  cottager  cultivates 
the  Gooseberry,  with  a  view  to  prizes  given  at  what  are  called 
Gooseberry  Prize-Meetings. 

In  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden,  seven 
hundred  and  twenty-two  varieties  are  described,  from  which 
the  following  are  selected,  as  in  most  repute  for  size,  flavor, 
and  other  good  qualities : 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  89 

RED  VARIETIES. 

BRITISH  CROWN,  Boardmarfs.  This  variety  is  noted  as  being 
a  fine-flavored  fruit,  especially  for  tarts ;  the  largest  berry 
weighing  18  pennyweights  and  10  grains. 

CHAMPAGNE.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  held  in  great 
esteem  for  its  delicious  flavor ;  the  berry  is  of  a  medium  size, 
somewhat  oblong  and  hairy. 

CAPPER'S  TOP  SAWYER.  This  is  a  late  fruit,  of  oblong  shape, 
and  hairy  near  the  base ;  the  heaviest  weighiug  22  dwts.  17 
grains. 

CROWN  BOB,  Netting's.  This  variety  won  eighty-five  prizes 
in  two  seasons;  the  largest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  and  12 
grains.  It  is  a  late  fruit,  of  oblong  shape,  bright  red  color,  and 
hairy. 

EARLY  RED,  Wilmofs.  This  variety  is  considered  as  first-rate 
of  its  color.  It  has  a  thin  skin ;  is  of  large  size,  very  early,  of 
excellent  flavor,  and  incredibly  productive. 

MARQUIS  OF  STAFFORD,  Knight's.  This  much-esteemed  late 
variety  is  hairy,  of  medium  size,  bright  red  color,  and  delicious 
flavor. 

OLD  ROUGH  RED.  This  is  a  favorite  fruit  for  family  use ; 
the  berries  are  of  medium  size,  of  dark  red  color ;  excellent  for 
preserving  as  gooseberry -jam,  and  for  bottling  in  an  unripe 
state. 

OVER-ALL,  Bratherton's.  The  average  weight  of  the  berries 
is  20  dwts.  It  is  a  highly  esteemed  fruit. 

TRIUMPHANT,  Denny's.  This  is  a  medium-sized  early  berry, 
weighing  about  16  dwts.  It  is  considered  equal  in  quality  to 
any  gooseberry  of  its  color. 

WARRINGTON.  This  is  a  favorite  fruit  for  private  gardens ; 
the  berries  are  of  medium  size,  very  rich  flavored,  and  ripen 
gradually  without  deteriorating. 

YELLOW    GOOSEBERRIES. 

We  may  mention  as  good  berries,  and  worthy  of  cultivation, 


90  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

the  Bunker  Hill,  Britannia  Cottage  Girl,  Golden  Gourd, 
Golden  Yellow,  Gunner,  Invincible,  Regulator,  Rockwood, 
Sovereign,  and  Viper. 


GREEN    GOOSEBERRIES. 


Of  this  variety  we  may  enumerate  the  Angler,  Early  Green, 
Favorite,  Greenwood,  Green  Gage,  Green  Myrtle,  Heart  of  Oak, 
Independent,  Jolly  Tar,  Laurel,  Ocean,  and  Wistaston. 

WHITE    GOOSEBERRIES. 

Bonny  Lass,  Governess,  Lady  of  the  Manor,  Lioness,  Nailer, 
Queen  of  Sheba,  Smiling  Girl,  White  Bear,  and  White  Eagle. 
There  are  many  other  kinds  enumerated  in  the  large  catalogues 
of  nursery -men. 

HOW   TO    PROPAGATE    GOOSEBERRIES. 

The  Gooseberry  may  be  propagated  by  all  the  modes  appli- 
cable to  trees  or  shrubs ;  but  that  by  cuttings  is  usually  adopted 
for  continuing  varieties ;  and  that  by  seed  for  procuring  them. 
The  cuttings  should  be  taken  from  promising  shoots  just  before 
the  leaves  begin  to  fall  in  the  autumn ;  the  greatest  part  of  the 
buds  should  be  taken  off,  leaving  only  two  or  three  buds  on 
the  top.  Cut  them  at  such  a  length  as^the  strength  and  ripe- 
ness of  the  wood  will  bear ;  and  plant  them  in  good  pulverized 
soil.  On  the  approach  of  winter,  lay  some  moss  or  litter 
around  them ;  and,  by  being  well  cultivated,  they  will  be  fit  to 
transplant  when  they  are  a  year  old.  Gooseberries  are  propa- 
gated by  cuttings  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended  for  the 
propagation  of  Currants  on  a  previous  page. 

PRUNING   AND    TRAINING. 

The  Gooseberry  produces  its  fruit  not  only  on  the  shoots  of 
the  preceding  year,  and  on  shoots  two  or  three  years  old,  but 
also  on  spurs  or  snags  arising  from  the  older  branches  along 
the  sides ;  but  the  former  afford  the  largest  fruit.  The  shoots 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  91 

retained  for  bearers  should  therefore  be  left  at  full  length,  or 
nearly  so.  The  first  pruning  should  be  done  before  the  buds 
swell,  so  as  not  to  endanger  their  being  rubbed  off  in  the  opera- 
tion. Cut  out  all  the  superfluous  cross-shoots,  and  prune 
long  ramblers  and  low  stragglers  to  some  well  placed  lateral  or 
eye ;  retain  a  sufficiency  of  the  young  well  situated  laterals  and 
terminals  to  form  successional  bearers.  In  cutting  out  super- 
fluous and  decayed  wood,  be  careful  to  retain  a  leading  shoot 
at  the  end  of  a  principal  branch.  The  superfluous  young 
laterals  on  the  good  main  branches,  instead  of  being  taken  off 
clean,  may  be  cut  into  little  stubs  of  one  or  two  eyes,  which 
will  send  out  fruit-buds  and  spurs. 

Some  persons  not  pruning  the  Gooseberry  bush  on  right 
principles,  cause  it  to  shoot  crowdedly  full  of  young  wood  in 
summer,  the  fruit  from  which  is  always  small,  and  does  not 
ripen  freely  with  full  flavor ;  on  which  account  it  is  an  import- 
ant point  in  pruning,  to  keep  the  middle  of  the  head  open  and 
clear,  and  to  let  the  occasional  shortening  of  the  shoots  be 
sparing  and  moderate.  Between  the  bearing  branches  keep  a 
regulated  distance  of  at  least  six  inches  at  the  extremities, 
which  will  render  them  fertile  bearers  of  good  fruit. 

The  prize  cultivators  of  this  fruit  in  Lancashire  are  particular 
in  preparing  a  very  rich  soil,  and  they  water  occasionally  with 
the  liquor  which  drains  from  dunghills ;  and  there  are  some 
who,  not  content  with  watering  at  the  root  and  over  the  top, 
place  a  small  saucer  of  water  under  each  Gooseberry,  only  six 
or  eight  of  which  are  left  on  a  bush.  This  is  technically  called 
suckling.  There  are  others  who  ring  some  of  the  branches ; 
this  is  done  by  cutting  out  small  circles  of  bark  around  them ; 
and  by  pinching  off  most  of  the  young  wood,  the  strength  is 
thrown  to  the  fruit. 

"When  bushes  are  procured  from  the  public  nurseries,  let  the 
general  supply  be  in  such  kinds  as  will  ripen  in  succession. 
They  may  be  planted  in  the  kitchen-garden,  in  single  rows, 
along  the  side  of  the  walks  or  paths,  or  in  compartments  by 
themselves,  in  rows  from  six  to  eight  feet  apart  from  row  to 


92  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

row,  and  five  or  six  feet  apart  in  the  rows ;  or  in  small  gardens, 
they  may  be  trained  to  a  single  tall  stem,  and  tied  to  a  stake. 
This,  though  six  or  eight  feet  high,  occasions  scarcely  any 
shade,  and  it  does  not  occupy  much  room,  nor  exclude  air, 
while,  at  the  same  time,  the  stem  becomes  closely  hung  with 
berries,  and  makes  a  pleasant  appearance  in  that  state.  Per- 
sons of  taste  may  train  them  on  arched  trellises,  and  if  they 
are  judiciously  managed,  the  ground  around  them  may  be 
more  easily  cultivated;  the  fruit  may  be  kept  from  being 
splashed  with  rain,  and  may  be  easily  gathered  when  wanted, 
or  preserved  by  shading  with  mats.  Those  who  may  have  a 
choice  of  soil  and  site,  should  fix  on  a  good,  rich,  loamy  earth, 
and  plant  some  of  the  choice  kinds  in  a  northern  and  eastern 
aspect,  near  the  fence,  to  come  late  in  succession. 

The  Gooseberry  may  be  forced  in  pots  or  boxes,  placed  in 
pits,  or  in  the  peach-house  or  vinery.  Unripe  Gooseberries 
may  be  preserved  in  bottles  against  winter ;  some,  after  filling 
the  bottles  in  a  dry  state,  stand  them  in  a  slow  oven,  or  in  hot 
water,  so  as  to  heat  them  gradually  through  without  cracking 
them ;  they  will  keep  a  whole  year  if  closely  corked  and  sealed 
as  soon  as  cold. 

GOOSEBERRY    SAW-FLY. 

This  insect  has  taken  almost  entire  possession  of  our  Goose- 
berry and  Currant  bushes ;  and  of  its  close  resemblance  to  the 
Gooseberry  Saw-Fly  of  Europe,  there  can  be  no  doubt.  It  first 
attacks  the  gooseberry ;  but  when  these  leaves  become  scarce 
those  of  the  currant  are  greedily  devoured. 

When  the  flies  emerge  from  their  winter  quarters  in  the 
ground  the  latter  part  of  April  or  early  in  May,  the  female 
begins  to  deposit  her  eggs  on  the  under  side  of  the  newly 
expanded  leaves,  choosing  the  sides  of  the  veins  or  nervures  as 
a  fitting  place.  With  the  saw-like  appendage  for  which  the 
family  is  remarkable,  the  female  commences  cutting  into  the 
leaves,  and  in  the  opening  deposits  her  egg.  The  larva  is 
hatched  in  about  a  week,  and  commences  feeding  on  the  leafj 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  93 

increasing  in  size  and  frequently  changing  its  skin,  till  it  is 
about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  length.  It  is  now  of  a  dull 
pale-green  color,  the  first  thoracic  segment  being  deep  yellow, 
the  penultimate  being  also  of  the  same  color.  The  feet,  tail, 
and  head  are  black,  and  each  segment  is  dotted  black  also, 
some  having  as  many  as  twenty-four  spots  arranged  in  lines 
down  the  back,  while  those  on  the  sides  are  more  irregular, 
with  one  large  one  at  the  base  of  each  foot.  They  have  six 
pectoral,  sharp,  horny  feet ;  the  fourth  segment  appears  desti- 
tute of  feet,  but  the  six  following  are  each  furnished  with  a 
pair  of  legs,  which  assist  them  in  walking.  They  have  also  a 
pair  of  feet  at  the  extremity  of  the  last  segment. 

In  the  fly  state  it  assumes  an  ochreous  color.  The  body  is 
orange,  sometimes  bright.  The  wings  are  iridescent;  and, 
when  expanded,  are  about  two-thirds  of  an  inch  in  length. 
The  antennae  are  almost  as  long  as  the  body,  bristly,  brownish 
above,  and  nine-jointed ;  the  crown  of  the  head  and  eyes  are 
black,  as  are  also  three  large  confluent  spots  in  the  centre  of 
the  trunk,  and  also  a  large  patch  on  the  breast  or  sternum. 

The  broods  of  caterpillars  appear  in  succession  occasionally 
from  March  till  October,  but  in  greatest  numbers  in  June. 
Sometimes  they  severely  attack  the  gooseberry  in  July  and 
August,  and  after  denuding  the  bushes  of  their  foliage,  they 
descend  into  the  earth,  spinning  themselves  a  yellowish 
cocoon  of  an  elliptical  form,  and  remain  in  their  pupa  state  till 
the  following  spring.  Those  of  the  early  summer  brood 
descend  in  like  manner,  but  in  the  course  of  three  weeks  or 
less,  undergo  their  transformation,  and  again  appear  as  perfect 
flies.  See  Dr.  A.  Fitch's  Report  on  Insects  for  a  more  com- 
plete description  of  this  worm. 

INFALLIBLE  REMEDY  FOR  THE  GOOSEBERRY  AND  CURRANT  WORM. 

The  only  eifectual  remedy  for  the  extermination  of  this 
worm  that  is  so  destructive  to  Currants  and  Gooseberries  is, 
powdered  White  Hellebore  (Veratrum  Album),  sprinkled  with 


04  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

a  dredging-box  over  the  leaves  and  branches.  The  bushes 
should  be  turned  up,  and  the  powder  scattered  on  the  leaves 
and  small  twigs  in  the  middle  of  the  bushes.  A  very  light 
dusting  will  be  sufficient.  The  worms  never  eat  any  more 
after  the  powder  falls  on  the  surface,  even  if  they  have  not 
gnawed  holes  through  the  leaves.  White  Hellebore  can  be 
obtained  at  the  drug  stores.  A  few  cents  will  purchase  enough 
to  destroy  all  the  worms  on  a  long  row  of  bushes.  Great 
caution  must  be  exercised  in  using  the  powder,  as  it  will  cause 
violent  sneezing  if  a  very  small  quantity  be  snuffed  up.  This 
powder  will  not  injure  the  leaves  nor  the  fruit  in  the  least, 
notwithstanding  it  is  exceedingly  poisonous  to  the  worms. 

To  protect  Gooseberries  and  other  fruits  from  mildews 
sprinkle  the  leaves  with  soapsuds ;  and  while  they  are  wet, 
sow  sulphur  lightly  over  them.  This  may  be  done  two  or 
three  times  a  week  if  necessary,  as  it  is  better  to  use  a  little 
of  the  ingredients  frequently  than  too  much  at  once.  A  solu- 
tion made  of  saltpetre  and  stone  lime  is  also  a  good  remedy ; 
but  it  must  be  used  with  caution. 


GRAPE. 
VIGNE.      Vitis  vinifera,  vulpina. 

Oh,  Bacchus  1  thy  Grapes  now  in  bunches  hang  down ; 
Some  press  them  too  freely  their  "  sorrows  to  drown  ; " 
Let "  Temperance  in  all  things  "  be  ever  our  guide — 
No  evil  can  flow  from  the  generous  tide  I 

THE  Grape-Vine  is  described  by  Loudon  as  a  trailing,  deci- 
duous, hardy  shrub,  with  a  twisted  irregular  stem,  and  long, 
flexible  branches,  decumbent,  like  those  of  the  bramble;  or 
supporting  themselves,  when  near  other  trees,  by  means  of  ten- 
drils, like  the  pea.  The  leaves  are  large,  lobed,  entire,  or  ser- 
rated and  downy,  or  smooth,  green  in  summer;  but  when 
mature,  those  of  varieties  in  which  the  predominating  color  is 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


95 


red,  constantly  change  to,  or  are  tinged  with  some  shade  of 
that  color;  and  those  of  white,  green,  or  yellow  Grapes  as 
constantly  change  to  yellow,  and  are  never  in  the  least  tinged 
either  with  purple,  red,  or  scarlet.  The  breadth  of  the  leaves 
varies  from  five  to  seven  or  ten  inches,  and  the  length  of  the 
foot-stalks  from  four  to  eight  inches.  The  flowers  are  produced 


^z 


Combined  Urn  and  Fountain. 

on  the  shoots  of  the  same  year,  which  shoots  generally  proceed 
from  those  of  the  year  preceding.  They  are  in  the  form  of  a 
raceme,  of  a  greenish-white  color  and  fragrant  odor,  appearing 
in  the  open  air  in  June ;  and  the  fruit,  which  is  of  the  berry 
kind,  attains  such  maturity  as  the  season  and  situation  admit, 


96 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


by  the  middle  or  end  of  September.  The  berry,  or  Grape,  is 
generally  globular,  but  often  ovate,  oval,  oblong,  or  finger- 
shaped  ;  the  color  green,  red,  yellow,  amber,  and  black,  or  a 
variegation  of  two  or  more  of  these  colors.  The  skin  is 
smooth,  the  pulp  and  juice  of  a  dulcet,  poignant,  elevated, 
generous  flavor. 

LIST SWEET-WATER    MUSCADINE,   RED    HAMBURGH. 

The  weight  of  a  berry  depends  not  only  on  its  size,  but  on 


Field-Training  on  Trellises. 


the  thickness  of  its  skin  and  texture  of  the  flesh,  the  lightest 
being  the  thin-skinned  and  juicy  sorts,  as  the  Sweet- Water  or 
Muscadine ;  and  what  are  considered  as  large-berried  of  these 
varieties,  will  weigh  from  five  to  seven  pennyweights,  and  mea- 
sure from  one  to  two-thirds  of  an  inch  in  girth.  .  A  good-sized 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  97 

bunch  of  the  same  sorts  may  weigh  from  two  to  six  pounds ; 
but  bunches  have  been  grown  of  the  Syrian  Grape,  in  Syria, 
weighing  forty  pounds,  and  in  England  weighing  from  ten  to 
nineteen  pounds.  A  single  vine,  in  a  large  pot,  or  grown  as  a 
dwarf  standard,  in  the  manner  practised  in  the  vineyards  in 
the  North  of  France,  ordinarily  produces  from  three  to  nine 
bunches ;  but  by  superior  management  in  gardens  in  England, 
the  number  of  bunches  is  prodigiously  increased;  and  one 
plant,  that  of  the  red  Hamburgh  sort,  in  the  vinery  of  the 
royal  gardens  at  Hampton  Court,  has  produced  two  thousand 
two  hundred  bunches,  averaging  one  pound  each,  or  in  all 
nearly  a  ton.  That  at  Valentine,  in  Essex,  has  produced  two 
thousand  bunches  of  nearly  the  same  average  weight. 

THE    AGE    OF    GRAPE-VINES. 

The  age  to  which  the  vine  will  attain  in  warm  climates  is  so 
great  as  not  to  be  known.  It  is  supposed  to  be  equal  or  even 
to  surpass  that  of  the  oak.  Pliny  speaks  of  a  vine  which  had 
existed  six  hundred  years ;  and  Bose  says  there  are  vines  in 
Burgundy  upwards  of  four  hundred  years  of  age.  In  Italy 
there  are  vineyards  which  have  been  in  a  flourishing  state  for 
upwards  of  three  centuries ;  and  Miller  tells  us  that  a  vineyard 
a  hundred  years  old  is  reckoned  young.  The  extent  of  the 
branches  of  the  vine,  in  certain  situations  and  circumstances, 
is  commensurate  with  its  produce  and  soil.  In  the  hedges  of 
Italy  and  woods  of  America  they  are  found  overtopping  the 
highest  elm  and  poplar  trees ;  and  in  England,  one  plant 
trained  against  a  row  of  houses  in  Northallerton,  covered  a 
space,  in  1585,  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven  square  yards. 
It  was  then  above  one  hundred  years  old.  That  at  Hampton 
Court,  nearly  of  the  same  age,  occupies  above  one  hundred 
and  sixty  square  yards  ;  and  that  at  Valentine,  in  Essex,  above 
one  hundred  and  forty-seven  square  yards.  The  size  to  which 
the  trunk,  or  stem,  sometimes  attains  in  warm  climates,  is  so 
great  as  to  have  afforded  planks  fifteen  inches  broad,  furniture 
and  statues ;  and  the  Northallerton  vine,  above  mentioned,  in 

5 


98 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


1785  measured  four  feet  in  circumference  near  the  ground; 
and  one  branch  of  the  Hampton  Court  vine  measures  one  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  feet  in  length.  Vine  timber  is  of  great 
durability. 

OBSERVATIONS    ABOUT   VARIETIES. 

The  varieties  of  the  Grape  in  countries  where  it  is  grown  for 
the  wine-press,  are  as  numerous  as  the  vineyards ;  for  as  these, 


The  Spiral  System  of  Training  Vines. 

for  the  most  part,  differ  in  soil,  aspect,  elevation,  or  otherwise, 
and  as  the  vine  is  greatly  the  child  of  local  circumstances,  its 
habits  soon  become  adapted  to  those  in  which  it  is  placed. 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


99 


When  it  is  considered  that  a  vineyard  once  planted  will  last 
two  or  three  centuries,  it  will  readily  be  conceived  that  the 
nature  of  a  variety  may  be  totally  changed  during  only  a  part 
of  that  time.  The  varieties  mostly  in  esteem  for  wine-making 
are  small  berries,  and  bunches  with  an  austere  taste.  The 
Burgundy,  as  modified  by  different  soils  and  situations,  may 
be  considered  the  most  general  vineyard  Grape  of  France, 
from  Champagne  or  Marne,  to  Marseilles  or  Bordeaux. 

William  Eobert  Prince,  in  his  Treatise  on  the  Vine,  pub- 


The  Weeping  Vine. 

lished  in  1830,  enumerated  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  varie- 
ties under  cultivation  in  the  vineyard  attached  to  the  Linnsean 
Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing,  including  about  ninety  American 
native  Grapes ;  but  no  sufficient  evidence  has  as  yet  been  exhi- 
bited of  the  foreign  varieties  flourishing  in  vineyards  here 
equal  to  what  they  do  in  Europe.  Mr.  Loubat  once  attempted 
to  establish  a  vineyard  on  Long  Island,  which  he  abandoned 
after  six  years'  arduous  exertion.  The  following  have  been 
found  to  succeed  best  in  private  sheltered  gardens  in  the  vici- 
nity of  New  York  : — the  Sweet-water,  the  Chasselas,  the  Musca- 
dine, the,  White  Tokay,  the  Black  Hamburgh,  the  Blue  Cor- 


100 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


tiga,  the  Miller  Burgundy,  the  Austrian  Muscadel,  the  Messlier, 
the  Morilon,  the  Black  Prince,  Blanc,  and  some  excellent  seed- 
ling sorts  from  the  imported  Lisbon  Grapes.  To  plant  a 
vinery  for  a  full  crop  of  good  Grapes  of  various  flavors,  take  a 
white  and  red  Muscat,  a  white  and  red,  or  black  Muscadel,  s 
white  Raisin  Grape,  a  white  and  red  Hamburgh,  a  StilwelFs, 


Renewal  System  on  Stakes. 

and  red  Sweet-water,  a  white  and  red  Nice,  a  black  Damascus, 
a  red  Syracuse,  and  a  black  Constantia.  The  above  list  con- 
tains some  of  the  most  esteemed  table  Grapes  of  all  colors  and 
flavors  which  will  ripen  in  succession. 

To  the  preceding  list  we  may  add  the  following,  which  are 
excellent  varieties,  and  succeed  well : — Ionia,  Isabella,  Con- 
cord, Hartford  Prolific,  Catawba,  Delaware,  and  some  others, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  101 

BEST    VARIETIES    FOR   WINE. 

The  best  wine  in  Italy  and  Spain  is  also  made  from  Grapes 
of  this  description ;  but  in  both  countries  many  of  the  larger- 
berried  sorts  are  grown  on  account  of  their  producing  more 
liquor.  The  sweet  wines,  as  the  Malmsey,  Madeira,  Constan 
tia,  Tokay,  etc.,  are  made  from  sweet-berried  Grapes,  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  plants  till  dead-ripe.  That  wine  is  the 
strongest,  and  has  most  flavor,  in  which  both  the  skins 
and  stones  are  bruised  and  fermented.  The  same  thing  is 
true  in  making  cider  ;  but  in  both  processes  bruising  the  stones 
or  kernels  is  neglected.  The  vine  was  formerly  extensively 
cultivated  in  Britain  for  the  wine-press,  but  its  culture  is  now 
confined  to  the  garden  as  a  dessert  fruit;  and  they  have  in 
that  country  not  only  the  best  varieties,  but  they  grow  the 
fruit  to  a  larger  size,  and  of  a  higher  flavor,  than  is  done  any- 
where else  in  the  world.  This  is  owing  to  the  perfection  of 
their  artificial  climates,  and  the  great  attention  paid  to  soil  and 
subsoil,  and  other  points  of  culture.  The  fruit  is  produced  in 
some  vineries  during  every  month  in  the  year ;  and  in  the  Lon. 
don  markets  (generally)  it  is  to  be  had  in  the  highest  degree 
of  perfection  from  March  to  January. 

SOIL    AND    ITS    PREPARATION. 

The  vine  will  thrive  in  any  soil  that  has  a  dry  bottom ;  and 
in  such  as  are  rich  and  deep  it  will  grow  luxuriantly,  and  pro- 
duce abundance  of  large  fruit.  In  shallow,  dry,  chalky,  or 
gravelly  soils,  it  will  produce  less  fruit,  but  of  better  flavor. 
Speechly  recommends  dung  reduced  to  a  black  mould,  the  dust 
and  dirt  of  roads,  the  offal  of  animals  or  butchers'  manure, 
horn  shavings,  old  rags,  shavings  of  leather,  bone  dust,  dung 
of  deer  and  sheep,  human  excrement,  when  duly  meliorated 
by  time,  a  winter's  frost,  and  repeatedly  turning  over.  Aber- 
crombie  says  that  dung  out  of  a  cow-house,  well  rotted,  is  a 
fine  manure  for  the  vine.  He  recommends  drainings  from 
dunghills  to  be  used  over  the  ground  once  in  ten  or  fourteen 


102  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

days  from  the  time  the  buds  rise  till  the  fruit  is  set ;  and  that 
fresh  horse-dung  be  spread  over  the  ground  in  autumn  as  a 
manure,  and  also  to  protect  the  roots  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  Some,  however,  disapprove  of  manuring  high, 
as  being  calculated  to  produce  wood  rather  than  fruit. 

Whatever  the  soil  may  be,  whether  light  or  heavy,  fertile 
or  barren,  grape-vines  will  not  flourish  well  if  there  be  an 
excess  of  moisture  in  it.  TJnderdraining  is  the  first  requi- 
site. The  next  thing  is  thorough  and  deep  pulverization, 
either  with  a  subsoil-plough,  or  by  spading  two  or  three  spits 
deep.  If  the  soil  be  heavy,  the  more  sand,  sawdust,  or  chip 
manure  one  can  mingle  with  it  the  better  it  will  be  for 
the  vines.  If  there  be  a  large  proportion  of  sand,  let  clay  be 
mingled  with  it.  Clay  will  render  it  more  productive  for 
Grapes  as  well  as  for  grass,  or  a  crop  of  cereal  grain. 

It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments  that  the  best 
manure  for  vines  is  the  branches  pruned  from  the  vines  them- 
selves, cut  into  small  pieces,  and  mixed  with  the  soil  by  means 
of  a  garden-hoe.  Dr.  Liebig,  in  his  "  Organic  Chemistry," 
mentions  several  instance  of  vines  being  kept  in  a  thriving  con- 
dition for  from  ten  to  thirty  years  by  the  trimmings  of  vines 
alone.  The  discovery  was  made  by  poor  peasants,  who  could 
not  afford  to  buy  the  ordinary  kinds  of  manure.  Vines  cut 
into  small  pieces  will  be  found  an  excellent  fertilizer  on  heavy 
soils,  when  there  is  an  excess  of  clay ;  and  it  is  a  good  prac- 
tice to  dispose  of  all  prunings  in  that  manner.  If  the  pieces 
be  covered  lightly  with  earth  as  soon  as  they  are  cut,  they 
will  decay  in  a  few  months,  and  make  excellent  mould. 

MODES  OF  PROPAGATING  GRAPES. 

The  general  mode  of  propagating  the  vine  is  by  cuttings, 
either  a  foot  or  more  long,  with  a  portion  of  two-year-old 
wood;  or  short,  with  only  one  bud,  or  one  bud  and  a  half  joint. 
Vines  may  be  obtained  at  the  nurseries,  propagated  either 
from  layers,  cuttings,  or  eyes.  Plants  raised  from  cuttings  are 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  103 

generally  preferred.  Many  are  of  opinion  that  it  is  a  mattel 
of  indifference  from  which  class  the  choice  is  made,  provided 
the  plants  are  well  rooted  and  in  good  health,  and  the  wood 
ripe.  A  mode  of  very  general  utility  is  to  select  the  plants  in 
the  nursery  a  year  before  wanted,  and  to  order  them  to  be 
potted  in  very  large  pots.  Varieties  without  end  are  raised 
from  seed,  and  it  is  thought  that  by  propagating  from  the  seed 
of  successive  generations,  some  sorts  may  ultimately  be  pro- 
cured better  adapted  for  ripening  their  fruit  in  the  open  air 
than  now  known.  A  seedling-vine,  carefully  treated,  will  show 
blossoms  in  its  fourth  or  fifth  year.  If  it  produces  a  fair  speci- 
men of  its  fruit  in  the  sixth  year,  then  a  new  generation  may 
be  obtained  so  often.  But  seed  ought  never  to  be  sown,  except 
for  experiment. 

If  the  ground  be  mellow,  vines  may  be  laid  down  in  a  chan- 
nel and  covered  with  mellow  soil  and  a  flat  stone  or  two 
bricks  laid  over  the  place  where  the  roots  should  start.  About 
every  two  feet,  a  bud  on  the  vine  should  be  exposed  to  the 
air  and  light,  from  which  a  cane  will  spring.  Vines  treated  in 
this  manner  will  form  a  system  of  good  roots  in  one  season ; 
and  wiien  one  year  old,  excellent  plants  may  be  taken  up  and 
transplanted  when  they  are  to  produce  grapes. 

TRAINING    GRAPE-VINES. 

The  illustration  on  the  next  page  represents  the  pyramidal 
mode  of  training  grape-vines,  which  is  practised  in  large  vine- 
yards to  a  greater  extent  than  any  other  mode  of  training, 
A  strong  stake,  not  over  seven  or  eight  feet  long,  is  set  a  few 
inches  from  the  root  of  each  vine,  and  in  some  instances  the 
main  vine  is  wound  around  the  stake  and  tied  with  pieces  of 
old  rope.  The  ends  of  the  canes  are  pinched  off  as  soon 
as  they  extend  beyond  a  given  limit. 

GRAFTING    GRAPES. 

The  following  method  of  grafting  the  vine  is  recommended 


104 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


by  Mr.  London :  Select  a  scion  with  one  good  eye ;  pare  it 
beneath  the  eye  and  on  the  opposite  side  in  the  form  of  a 
wedge.  Select  from  the  stock  to  be  grafted  on,  a  branch  of 
the  preceding  year ;  cut  this  off  a  little  above  the  second  eye 


Pyramidal  Training. 

from  its  base  ;  then  with  a  sharp  knife  split  it  down  the  centre 
nearly  to  the  old  wood.  Out  of  each  half  of  the  stock,  but 
chiefly  out  of  that  half  which  is  opposite  the  bud,  pare  off  as 
much  as  is  necessary  to  make  it  fit  the  scion,  which  must  be 
inserted  with  its  eye  opposite  to  the  eye  which  is  left  on  the 
top  of  the  stock,  and  bandaged  together  carefully  with  bass 
matting.  Some  use  grafting-clay,  others  composition;  in 
either  case,  a  small  hole  for  the  eye  of  the  graft,  and  another 
hole  for  the  eye  left  on  the  stock,  must  be  left  open.  Tie  over 
a  little  moss,  to  be  occasionally  sprinkled  with  water.  It  is 
essential  that  the  young  shoot  on  the  top  of  the  stock  should 
be  allowed  to  grow  for  ten  or  fifteen  days ;  then  cut  it  off, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  105 

leaving  only  one  eye  and  one  leaf  to  draw  the  sap  and  keep 
alive  the  circulation,  till  both  scion  and  stock  are  perfectly 
united. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  NATIVE  GRAPES. 

ALEXANDER,  Constantia  of  Vevay,  Madeira  of  York,  Pa., 
Winne,  Schuylkill  Muscadel.  A  good  wine  fruit,  of  large  size, 
blackish  color,  and  oblong  form ;  very  juicy  and  pungent ;  a 
great  and  sure  bearer. 

BLAND,  Eland's  Madeira,  Bland* s  Virginia,  Mazzei,  Powel. 
A  pale-red  grape,  of  large  size  and  round  shape,  rather  musky, 
but  the  juice  is  sweet  and  lively. 

CAROLINA  PERFUMED.  A  medium-sized  fruit,  of  purple  color 
and  rather  an  unpleasant  odor  ;  it  is,  however,  considered  as  well 
adapted  for  wine,  being  rather  pungent,  very  juicy,  and  pulpless. 

CATAWBA,  Red  Muncy,  To  Kalon.  A  fine  variety,  above 
medium  size,  of  dark  red  color,  in  form  round,  in  flavor  deli- 
cious for  the  dessert,  and  highly  productive :  it  ripens  soon  after 
the  Isabella. 

CUNNINGHAM.  A  native  of  Prince  Edward's  county,  Vir- 
ginia; the  berries  are  round,  black,  of  medium  size,  and  not 
liable  to  rot ;  they  are  said  to  resemble,  in  taste,  the  Nigrillo 
of  Madeira,  and  are  considered  good  for  wine  as  well  as  for  the 
table. 

ELSINGBURG.  Fruit  small,  round,  of  purple  color,  and  delicate 
musky  flavor,  without  pulp ;  good  for  wine,  and  as  a  dessert 
fruit ;  the  vine  is  very  hardy  and  productive. 

HIDE'S  ELIZA.  BeTries  large,  oval,  of  violet  color,  and  ex- 
cellent flavor ;  alike  suited  for  the  dessert  and  for  wine. 

ISABELLA.  A  well  known  and  highly  estimated  variety. 
Fruit  large,  oval,  of  rich  purple  color,  covered  with  bloom ; 
skin,  under  good  cultivation,  thin ;  flesh  juicy,  rich  and  vinous ; 
an  excellent  dessert  fruit. 

LUFBOROUGH.  A  sweet  fox  grape  of  large  size  and  round 

5* 


106  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

shape;  skin  dark  purple;  pulp  dissolving  in  a  saccharine 
musky  juice  ;  good  for  wine. 

MADDOX.  A  good  wine  grape,  not  liable  to  rot ;  it  is  of 
medium  size  ;  roundish  ;  of  a  brownish  red  color,  and  a  brisk 
vinous  flavor. 

NORTON'S  VIRGINIA  SEEDLING,  Longworttis  Ohio.  An  early 
fruit  of  medium  size  and  dark  purple  color ;  it  ripens  in  Sep- 
tember ;  makes  excellent  wine  ;  it  is  also  generally  approved  as 
a  dessert  fruit. 

POND'S  SEEDLING.  A  large  purple  grape  of  roundish  form, 
thin  skin,  and  of  rich  pungent  flavor ;  adapted  for  wine  as  well 
as  for  the  table. 

SCUPPERNONG.  This  species  is  very  prolific ;  the  berries  are 
large,  roundish,  and  of  a  color  varying  from  brick  red  to  black ; 
makes  peculiar  Muscat  wine,  and  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  dessert 
fruit. 

WARREN,  Madeira.  A  round  fruit  of  medium  size  and  dark 
purple  color ;  it  is  considered  by  some  as  the  most  luscious  of 
all  native  grapes  ;  it  makes  excellent  wine. 

WOODSON.  A  small  round  black  Virginian  variety,  from 
Prince  Edward's  county ;  it  is  celebrated  as  a  very  proper  fruit 
for  the  manufacture  of  sparkling  wine  ;  it  ripens  later  than  most 
other  varieties,  but  yields  abundantly. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE   LIST  OF  FOREIGN  GRAPES. 

[Those  designated  thus  *  will  ripen  in  the  open  air.     Those  marked  thus  t  require 
but  little  forcing  in  favorable  seasons.] 

*  BLACK  CLUSTER,  Black  Morillon,  True  Burgundy,  Early 
Black,  Auverna.  Bunches  rather  larger  than  those  of  the  Mil- 
ler's Burgundy ;  berries  middle  size,  somewhat  oval ;  skin  of  a 
very  black  color ;  juice  rich  and  sweet ;  the  fruit  ripens  in  the 
open  air  about  the  middle  of  September. 

BLACK  DAMASCUS,  Worksop  Manor  Grape.     Bunches  middle 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  107 

size ;  berries  large,  globular ;  skin  thin,  of  a  fine  black  color ; 
flesh  delicate  ;  juice  rich,  and  of  exquisite  flavor  when  properly 
cultivated  under  glass. 

f  BLACK  FRONTIGNAN,  Black  Frontignac,  Violet  Frontignac, 
Muscat  Noir,  Black  Constantia  of  some.  Berries  of  medium 
size,  round,  and  grow  close  on  the  bunches ;  skin  black  ;  flesh 
tender ;  the  juice  of  a  rich  vinous  musky  flavor ;  it  ripens  in 
October,  in  favorable  seasons  without  fire-heat. 

f  BLACK  HAMBURGH,  Warner's  Black  Hamburgh,  Potier 
Bleu,  Victoria  of  some  collections.  Bunches  tolerably  large, 
with  two  short  compact  shoulders ;  berries  pretty  large,  of  an 
oval  figure ;  skin  rather  thick,  of  a  deep  purple  color,  nearly 
black ;  flesh  tender ;  juice  sugary  arid  rich :  a  good  and  regular 
bearer.  Wilmot's  New  Black  Hamburgh  is  said  to  bear  larger 
berries. 

BLACK  LOMBARDY,  West's  St.  Peter's.  Bunches  long,  with 
large  shoulders ;  berries  large,  roundish  oval ;  skin  thin,  very 
black  at  maturity  ;  juice  plentiful  and  high  flavored  ;  it  requires 
a  high  temperature,  and  is  then  a  great  bearer. 

BLACK  MUSCAT  OF  ALEXANDRIA,  Red  Muscat  of  Alexandria, 
Red  Frontignac  of  Jerusalem.  Bunches  large  and  shouldered ; 
berries  large,  oval ;  skin  thick,  of  a  reddish  color,  becoming 
black  at  maturity  ;  flesh  quite  firm,  with  a  rich  vinous  flavor : 
requires  a  vinery  with  fire-heat. 

f  BLACK  MUSCADINE,  Black  Chasselas,  Chasselas  Noir. 
Bunches  of  medium  size,  compact ;  berries  globular ;  skin  black, 
covered  with  fine  bloom ;  juice  rich  if  well  ripened  :  it  requires 
a  vinery. 

f  BLACK  PRINCE.  Bunches  rather  long ;  berries  large,  oval ; 
skin  dark  blackish  purple,  covered  with  a  thick  blue  bloom  ; 
flesh  white,  abounding  with  sweet  well  flavored  juice  :  this  va- 
riety will  ripen  here  in  the  open  air,  and  bear  profusely  in  the 
vinery  with  the  easiest  culture. 

BLACK  ST.  PETER'S,  Black  Palestine,  Saint  Peter's.  Bunches 
pretty  large  and  long ;  berries  rather  large,  almost  globular ; 
skin  thin,  of  a  black  color ;  flesh  delicate,  with  a  very  excellent 


108  /          FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  well-flavored  juice :  this  is  one  of  the  best  sorts  for  a  vinery 
without  fire-heat,  and  the  fruit  may  be  preserved  on  the  vine 
for  early  winter  use. 

CHASSELAS  MOSQUE,  Music  Chasselas.  Bunches  of  medium 
size;  berries  middle-size,  round;  skin  thin,  yellowish-white; 
flesh  tender ;  juice  rich  and  abundant :  the  highest-flavored 
chasselas  known,  having  much  of  the  flavor  of  the  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  when  properly  forced. 

CHASSELAS  ROUGE,  Red  Muscadine,  Red  Chasselas.  The 
berries  of  this  variety  are  something  larger  than  those  of  the 
Black  Muscadine ;  they  are  of  a  dark  red  color,  when  highly 
ripened  in  the  vinery  ;  juice  sweet  and  luscious. 

*  EARLY  BLACK  JULY,  July  Grape,  Madeleine  Noire,  Mau- 
rillon  Hatif.     The  earliest  of  grapes.     Bunches  small  and  com- 
pact ;  berries  small,  quite  round,  of  a  black  color,  covered  with 
a  blue  bloom ;  flavor  moderately  sweet,  but  not  rich  or  per- 
fumed :  it  ripens  here  in  the  open  air  early  in  August. 

*  ESPERIONE,  Hardy  Blue  Windsor,  Tnrner's  Black  Cum- 
berland Lodge.     Bunches  handsomely  shouldered,  and  differing 
little  in  size  from  the  Black  Hamburgh ;  skin  of  a  deep  purple 
color,  covered  with  a  thick  blue  bloom ;  flesh  adheres  to  the 
skin,  and  is  of  a  pleasant  flavor  :  the  vine  is  very  prolific. 

GRIZZLY  FRONTIGNAN,  Grizzly  Frontignac,  Muscat  Gris. 
Bunches  middle-size,  with  small  narrow  shoulders;  berries 
round,  of  medium  size ;  skin  thick,  pale  brown,  blended  with 
red  and  yellow ;  flesh  very  rich,  musky,  and  high  flavored :  this 
is  one  of  the  best  varieties  for  the  vinery. 

LOMBARD Y,  Flame-Colored  Tokay,  Red  Rhenish,  Wantage. 
Bunches  very  large,  frequently  weighing  six  or  seven  pounds, 
being  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  length  ;  berries  large, 
of  somewhat  oval  figure ;  skin  of  a  pale  red  or  flame  color ;  flesh 
firm,  with  pretty  well  flavored  juice :  this  variety  requires  fire- 
heat  to  bring  it  to  perfection. 

*  MILLER'S  BURGUNDY,  Miller  Grape,  Le  Mennier,  Morillon 
Taconne.     Bunches  short,  thick,  and  compact ;  berries  small, 
roundish,  very  closely  set  together ;  skin   thin,  with  fine  blue 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  109 

bloom  ;  flesh  tender,  abounding  with  sweet,  high-flavored  juice ; 
each  berry  contains  two  small  seeds. 

*  PITMASTON'S  WHITE  CLUSTER.     A  pretty  hardy  English 
variety.     Bunches  of  medium  size,  compact  and  shouldered ; 
berries  middle-size,  round ;  skin  thin,  light  amber  color,  occa- 
sionally shaded  with  russet  when  fully  ripe  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy, 
sweet,  and  excellent. 

f  RED  HAMBURGH,  Warner's  Red  Hamburgh,  Brown  Ham- 
burgh, Gibraltar.  The  berries  of  this  are  of  a  dark  red  or 
purple  color,  with  a  thin  skin,  and  juicy,  delicate  flesh.  The 
size  and  figure  of  both  the  bunch  and  the  berry  are  very  much 
like  the  Black  Hamburgh,  except  the  latter  being  less  oval,  and 
growing  more  loosely  on  the  bunches.  When  the  berries  are 
imperfectly  ripened,  they  are  of  a  pale  brown  color,  hence  it  is 
called  Brown  Hamburgh. 

*  ROYAL   MUSCADINE,    Amber    Muscadine,    Early     White 
Teneri/e,  Golden  Chasselas,  White  Chasselas.     Bunches  large 
and  shouldered  ;  berries  round,  larger  than  those  of  the  Sweet- 
water  ;  skin  thin,  at  first   greenish- white,  but  turning  to  an 
amber   color  when  fully  ripe ;    flesh   tender  and  of   a   rich 
flavor. 

SYRIAN.  Bunches  enormously  large,  with  broad  shoulders; 
berries  large,  oval ;  skin  thick,  white  at  first,  but  amber  color 
when  fully  ripe ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  and  sweet.  A  bunch  of  this 
variety  was  gathered  in  Mr.  Speechly's  vinery  at  Welbeck, 
England,  four  feet  and  a  half  in  circumference,  weighing  nine- 
teen pounds  and  a  half.  The  Syrian  grape  is  supposed  to  be 
the  sort  mentioned  in  Numbers  xiii.  23. 

VERDELHO,  Verdal,  Verdilhio,  Madeira  Wine  Grape. 
Bunches  rather  small,  loose,  inclined  to  shoulder ;  berries  oval, 
small,  rather  unequal  in  size ;  skin  thin,  almost  transparent ; 
juice,  when  fully  matured  in  the  vinery,  of  a  rich  saccharine 
flavor. 

WHITE  FRONTIGNAN,  White  Frontignac,  Muscat  blanc,  White 
Constantia.  Bunches  rather  long,  without  shoulders  ;  berries 
middle-size,  round,  rather  closely  set ;  skin  thin,  of  a  greenish- 


110  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

yellow,  covered  with  a  thin  bloom  ;  flesh  tender,  very  rich,  and 
of  a  high  musky  flavor,  when  cultivated  in  the  vinery. 

WHITE  HAMBURGH,  White  Raisin,  White  Portugal,  White 
Lisbon,  Raisin  Muscat.  Bunches  large,  loosely  formed ;  berries 
large,  of  an  oval  figure  ;  skin  thick,  of  a  greenish-white  color ; 
flesh  hard ;  juice  sweet,  and  slightly  acid.  Bunches  of  three 
pounds  weight  have  been  gathered  in  vineries  near  Boston. 

WHITE  MUSCAT  OF  ALEXANDRIA,  Jerusalem  Muscat,  Passe- 
longue  Musque,  Malaga,  Tottenham  Park  Muscat.  The  most 
delicious  of  all  grapes,  but  requires  to  be  grown  under  glass  in 
this  climate.  Bunches  large,  and  well  shouldered ;  berries 
large,  oval ;  skin  thick,  of  pale-amber  color  when  fully  ripe  ; 
flesh  firm ;  juice  of  a  sweet,  musky,  and  most  delicious  flavor. 

*  WHITE  MELIER,  Melier  Uanc,  Early  White  Malvasia,  Early 
Chasselas.     Berries  middle-size,  somewhat  of  an  oval  figure; 
color  yellowish-white  ;  flesh  sweet,  juicy,  and  agreeable  in  flavor : 
ripens  in  August. 

WHITE  NICE.  Bunches  very  large,  with  loose  shoulders ; 
berries  roundish,  of  medium  size  ;  skin  greenish-white,  becom- 
ing yellowish  when  ripe  ;  flesh  crisp,  and  of  good  flavor.  Mr. 
Mclntosh  has  gathered  from  his  vinery  in  England  bunches 
weighing  eighteen  pounds. 

*  WHITE    SWEET-WATER,   Early    White  Muscadine,  Early 
Sweetwater.  Bunches  middle-size ;  berries  round,  growing  close  ; 
skin  whitish,  sometimes  shaded  with  a  light  russet ;  flesh  sweet, 
watery,  saccharine,  and  luscious  :  the  fruit  ripens  in  the  open 
air  towards  the  end  of  August. 

*  WHITE  TOKAY,  Gray  Tokay,  Tokai  Uanc.     Bunches  of 
medium  size,  compact ;   berries  oval,  closely  set ;    skin  dull 
white  ;  flesh  very  delicate,  sweet  and  perfumed :  good  for  wine 
and  for  the  dessert.     It  will  ripen  in  the  open  air. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  Ill 

SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  NATIVE  GRAPES. 

DIANA.  A  seedling  of  the  Catawba,  raised  by  Mrs.  Diana 
Crehore,  of  Boston.  Fruit  resembling  the  Catawba,  but  paler 
in  color ;  bunches  loose  ;  berries  round,  juicy,  and  fine  flavored ; 
it  ripens  two  weeks  earlier  than  the  parent. 

GILBERT'S  WHITE  SHONGA.  This  variety  was  found  by 
Garret  Gilbert,  of  the  city  of  New  York,  on  the  Shonga  Moun- 
tains in  1825,  and  planted  in  his  garden.  It  is  a  great  bearer, 
of  similar  habits  with  the  Isabella,  differing  from  that  kind 
only  in  color,  and  coming  to  maturity  a  little  earlier. 

LENOIR,  Sumpter,  Clarence.  This  variety  was  introduced  by 
Mr.  Lenoir,  of  the  Santee  river,  Carolina.  Bunches  large,  very 
handsome ;  berries  small,  round ;  skin  purple,  with  a  light 
bloom ;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  and  excellent. 

MISSOURI,  Missouri  Seedling.  Bunches  of  medium  size ; 
berries  small  and  round ;  skin  black,  with  a  little  bloom  ;  flesh 
tender,  sweet,  and  pleasant. 

OHIO,  Segar  Box  Grape,  LongwortKs  Ohio.  The  cuttings 
from  which  Mr.  Longworth's  first  stock  originated,  were  left 
at  his  residence  by  an  unknown  friend,  in  a  cigar-box.  Bunches 
from  six  to  ten  inches  long ;  berries  round  and  small ;  skin 
thin,  purple  ;  flesh  tender  and  melting :  a  good  dessert  fruit. 

SHURTLEFF'S  SEEDLING.  Raised  by  Dr.  S.  A.  Shurtleff,  of 
Pemberton  Hill,  Boston.  Bunches  large,  often  weighing  a 
pound ;  berries  oval,  of  medium  size ;  skin  thick,  light  purple, 
with  a  greyish  bloom ;  flesh  firm,  and  of  excellent  flavor :  the 
fruit  is  fit  for  the  table  in  September. 

TTcHEE  GRAPE.  A  native  grape  found  on  the  banks  of  the 
"Uchee  creek,  Russell  county,  Alabama.  The  bunches  are  long, 
very  compact,  and  of  a  jet  black  color ;  the  berries  yield  but 
little  juice,  which  is  extremely  rich,  and  makes  delicious  wine 
without  sugar. 

WHITE  SCUPPERNONG.  Bunches  short  and  close  set ;  berries 
large,  of  a  roundish  figure  ;  skin  white,  with  some  dark  specks ; 
juice  sweet  and  rich :  it  is  a  great  bearer,  ripening  its  fruit  early. 


112  FRUIT-GARDENING. 


The  Managers  of  the  American  Institute  having  at  their 
nineteenth  Annual  Fair,  held  at  Castle  Garden,  in  the  City  of 
New  York,  awarded  premiums  for  Native  Wine,  I  here  insert  a 
copy  of  the  Judges'  Report. 

"Report  on  Native  Wine  tested  October  21st,  1846,  by  C. 
HENRY  HALL,  W.  NIBLO,  and  ADONIRAM  CHANDLER,  Com- 
mittee of  Judges  on  Wine.''1 

"  The  five  kinds  of  wine  described  below,  were  sent  by  Mr.  N. 
Longworth,  of  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  to  whom  a  Silver  Cup  was 
awarded. 

"  No.  1. — A  fine  light  wine,  called  '  Ladies'  Wine,'  with  sugar 
added  before  fermentation ;  delicious  in  flavor,  and  will  com- 
pete with  foreign  sweet  wine. 

"  No.  2. — A  light  dry  wine,  from  the  Catawba  grape ;  sound, 
of  peculiar  flavor,  resembling  that  of  Hock,  and  of  the  Bouquet. 

"  No.  3. — A  good  dry  wine,  of  pure  juice,  different  vintage 
from  the  last  described,  but  good  sound  wine,  although  not 
high  flavored. 

"  No.  4. — A  dry  wine  from  the  pure  juice  of  the  Herbemont 
Grape.  It  is  sound,  of  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the  grape,  and 
will  without  doubt  be  admired. 

"  No.  5. — From  the  Missouri  Grape,  five  per  cent,  brandy. 
The  wine  is  thin  in  body,  and  wanting  flavor,  perhaps  arising 
from  our  not  having  had  a  fair  chance  of  tasting  it  at  perfection, 
it  having  been  recently  shaken  up." 

A  Silver  Medal  was  awarded  for  each  of  the  bottles  described 
below. 

A  bottle  of  wine  furnished  by  Mr.  T.  L.  Prevost,  Greenville, 
Greene  county,  was  tested,  which  was  represented  to  be  four 
years  old.-  "  A  sort  of  Hock,  of  fine  flavor,  but  in  a  state  of 
fermentation,  the  sugar  not  being  dissolved  and  the  spirit 
formed." 

A  bottle  from  Mr.  Charles  Peabody,  made  by  him  from  a 
native  grape  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Uchee  creek,  in  Russell 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  113 

county,  Alabama,  was  pronounced  by  the  judges,  "  a  pleasant 
wine,  sweet,  like  Malmsey,  and  if  no  sugar  has  been  added  to 
the  juice,  as  is  represented,  it  is  remarkable  in  its  character.1' 

It  is  recorded  in  the  Southern  Cultivator,  "  that  some  of  the 
most  celebrated  wine  connoisseurs  of  Columbus  describe  the 
wine  made  from  the  Uchee  Grape  as  having  the  body  of  Port, 
with  a  little  of  the  Muscat  flavor,  and  equal  to  the  best  imported." 

TRAINING    AND    PRUNING. 

There  are  various  methods  adopted  in  training  and  prun- 
ing the  vine ;  and  it  appears  impossible  to  lay  down  rules 
to  suit  every  cultivator.  The  vine  having,  like  other  trees, 
a  tendency  to  produce  its  most  vigorous  shoots  at  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  branches,  and  particularly  so  at  those  which 
are  situated  highest,  it  generally  happens,  when  it  is  trained 
high,  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  fruit  is  borne  near  the  top  ; 
and  it  has  been  observed  that  the  fruit  produced  on  the  vigor- 
ous shoots,  which  naturally  grow  at  the  extremities  of  the  long 
branches,  is  generally  more  abundant,  and  of  finer  quality  than 
that  produced  on  the  short  lateral  ones,  from  which  circum- 
stance some  fruit-growers  contend  that  high  training  is  best 
calculated  for  private  gardens. 

In  some  parts  of  Italy,  vines  are  cultivated  together  with 
Mulberry-trees,  and  are  allowed  to  mingle  and  hang  in  festoons. 
Thus  silk  and  wine  are  produced  on  the  same  spot;  and  it  is 
considered  that  when  vines  are  alloVed  to  grow  over  trees,  on 
the  side  of  a  house,  or  on  bowers,  or  extended  on  tall  poles, 
without  much  trimming,  they  will  produce  more  fruit,  and  are 
not  so  liable  to  mildew. 

Dr.  G.  W.  Chapman,  of  New  York,  having  paid  some  atten- 
tion to  the  cultivation  of  native  grapes,  observes  that  the  vme, 
in  its  natural  state,  seldom  or  never  throws  out  bearing-shoots 
until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  tree  on  which  it  ascends,  when 
the  branches  take  a  horizontal  or  descending  position.  From 
this  fact  he  considers  horizontal  training  preferable  to  that  in 


114 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


the  fan  shape.  From  the  experiments  he  has  made,  he  has 
found  that  the  shoots  coming  from  those  parts  of  the  branches 
bent  downwards,  are  more  productive  than  from  those  ascending. 
He  considers  deep  digging  around  the  vine,  even  to  the  destruc- 


tion of  some  of  the  extending  roots,  as  calculated  to  promote 
the  -growth  of  more  fruit  and  less  wood  than  if  allowed  to 
spread  near  the  surface  ;  and  he  disapproves  stopping  the  shoots 
before  the  fruit  until  early  in  July. 

LAYING    DOWN    VINES    IN    WINTER. 

Mr.  William  Wilson,  of  Clermont,  leaves  his  foreign  vines 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  115 

their  whole  length  at  the  time  of  trimming  in  October.  In 
November,  they  are  laid  on  the  ground  at  full  length,  fastened 
down  with  pins,  and  covered  lightly  with  earth.  In  this  state 
they  lie  all  the  winter.  In  April,  as  soon  as  the  weather  will 
permit,  they  are  uncovered,  and  left  lying  on  the  ground  ten  or 
twelve  days.  By  the  first  of  May  the  vines  are  trained  to  stakes 
or  poles  of  the  length  of  ten  feet  and  upwards ;  and  by  the 
middle  of  June  the  stakes  are  entirely  covered  by  new  shoots 
of  the  vine,  and  with  plenty  of  fruit,  which  ripens  in  September. 
Mr.  W.  says,  that  until  he  pursued  his  present  course,  his  fruit 
was  frequently  blasted  and  mildewed ;  but  that  he  has  now  vines 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  which  run  up  the  fruit-trees  adjoin- 
ing ;  others,  being  carried  up  eight  or  ten  feet,  are  stretched 
horizontally.  It  is  seldom  he  gathers  fruit  within  three  or  four 
feet  of  the  ground,  and  he  has  never  any  blasted  or  infected 
with  mildew.  He  keeps  the  ground  cultivated  by  frequent 
hoeing ;  but  he  says  he  has  used  no  manure  for  ten  years  or 
more. 

PREPARATION    OF    SOIL    AND    PLANTING. 

Edward  H.  Bonsall  has  a  vineyard  of  American  Grapes  at 
Germantowu,  Pa.,  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  In  a  letter  to 
the  author,  from  which  the  following  is  extracted  as  appropri- 
ate to  our  subject,  he  says  : 

"  Mr.  Bonsall's  vineyard  is  situated  between  the  Schuylkill 
and  Delaware  rivers,  four  miles  from  the  former,  and  eight  from 
the  latter,  at  an  elevation  of  three  hundred  feet  above  their  level ; 
has  an  aspect  facing  S.S.E.,  with  a  substratum  of  light  isinglass 
soil,  and  seems  well  suited  to  the  purpose.  He  says :  '  From 
my  experience,  both  on  my  premises  and  at  other  places,  it  is 
my  opinion  that  we  should  reject  almost  all  the  foreign  varieties, 
especially  where  our  object  in  cultivating  them  is  to  make  wine.' 
He  has  upwards  of  thirty  varieties  of  American  vines  under 
cultivation  ;  he  recommends  preparing  the  ground  by  ploughing 
with  two  ploughs  with  strong  teams,  one  immediately  behind 
the  other,  in  the  same  furrow,  each  of  them  set  deep ;  and  after 


116  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

the  ploughing  is  completed,  to  be  harrowed  thoroughly.  Then 
in  the  direction  the  rows  are  intended  to  be  planted,  parallel 
furrows  are  run  across  the  field,  at  the  distance  of  eight  feet 
from  each  other ;  these  are  afterwards  crossed  at  right  angles, 
five  feet  asunder.  In  the  opening,  at  the  intersection  of  these 
furrows,  cuttings  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  long  are  planted, 
and  arranged  with  a  view  to  the  vines  being,  when  grown,  at 
distances  of  four  by  seven  feet  from  each  other.  He  frequently 
plants  two  cuttings  in  a  place,  some  of  which  are  used  to  fill  up 
with,  in  case  of  failures.  He  says  that  in  1829  he  planted  in 
nursery-beds  from  two  to  three  thousand  cuttings  as  late  as  the 
middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  May,  with  better  success  than 
at  any  previous  time.  In  this  case  the  slips  should  be  kept  in 
a  cool,  damp  place,  where  vegetation  may  be  held  in  check. 
To  insure  their  freshness,  sprinkle  them  occasionally  with  water. 
Previous  to  planting,  cut  them  a  proper  length,  and  place 
them  with  their  lower  ends  three  or  four  inches  in  water, 
in  a  tub  above  the  ground,  where  they  may  soak  three  or  four 
days.  At  this  season  the  temperature  will  be  likely  to  be  such 
as  to  spur  vegetation  at  once  into  healthy  and  vigorous  action. 
The  autumn,  or  early  in  the  spring,  is  preferable  for  rooted 
plants.  In  the  autumn  of  the  first  year,  after  the  frost  has 
killed  the  unripened  part  of  the  young  shoots,  they  should  be 
pruned  down  to  the  mature,  firm  wood,  and  then  with  a  hoe 
hilled  over  with  the  surrounding  soil,  which  will  completely  pro- 
tect them  through  the  winter.  If  left  without  protection  the 
first  winter,  many  of  them  will  perish." 

TRAINING    ON    WIRE    TRELLISES. 

Mr.  Bonsall  says  his  mode  of  training,  as  far  as  he  is  aware 
of  it,  is  entirely  peculiar  to  himself,  which  he  describes  as  fol- 
lows :  "  I  take  chestnut  posts,  the  thickness  of  large  fence-rails, 
seven  feet  in  length  ;  these  I  plant  along  the  rows,  at  distances 
of  ten  feet  from  each  other,  and  at  such  a  depth  as  to  leave 
five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Then  taking  three 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  11 7 

nails  to  each  post,  and  driving  them  to  within  half  an  inch  of 
their  heads,  the  first  two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground,  a 
second  midway  between  that  and  the  top,  and  the  third  near 
the  top,  I  attach  No.  11  iron  annealed  wire  firmly  to  one  of 
the  nails  in  the  end  post,  pass  on  to  the  next,  and  stretching 
it  straight  and  tight,  give  it  one  turn  round  a  nail  in  the  same 
line  as  the  one  to  which  it  was  first  attached.  Having  in  this 
manner  extended  it  along  the  three  courses,  the  whole  length 
of  the  row,  my  trellis  is  formed.  I  have  had  a  portion  of  my 
vineyard  fitted  up  in  this  way  for  three  years,  and  experience 
has  confirmed  the  superior  fitness  of  the  plan.  It  is  not  its 
least  recommendation,  that  it  possesses  in  a  degree  the  cha- 
racter of  labor-saving  machinery.  A  very  important  and 
extensive  labor-making  portion  of  the  operations  in  the  vine- 
yard during  the  summer  is  the  attention  required  by  the 
growing  shoots  to  keep  them  properly  trained  up.  They 
grow  and  extend  themselves  so  rapidly,  that  where  the  strips 
of  the  trellis  are  lath,  or  where  poles  are  used  to  support  vines, 
unless  very  closely  watched,  they  fall  down  in  every  direction, 
in  a  very  unsightly  and  injurious  manner.  Here  the  wire 
being  small,  the  tendrils  or  claspers  eagerly  and  firmly  attach 
themselves  to  it,  and  thus  work  for  themselves  in  probably 
two-thirds  of  the  instances  where  the  attention  of  the  vigneron 
would  otherwise  be  required.  There  is  a  free  access  afforded 
to  the  sun  and  air,  and  no  hold  for  the  wind  to  strain  the  frame. 
After  the  vines  have  attained  a  full  capacity  for  production 
(say  five  years  from  the  cutting),  my  view  is  to  prepare  them 
for  bearing  an  average  of  fifty  clusters  to  each,  leaving 
several  shoots  of  from  three  to  five  joints  on  a  vine  for  this 
purpose.  When  fresh  pruned,  they  will  not  be  more  than  four 
feet  high,  at  their  greatest  age." 

The  modes  of  training  in  vineyards  and  vineries  are  alike 
suited  to  the  garden.  Low  training  may  be  practised  in  bor- 
ders or  hedge  rows  in  large  gardens;  and  high  training  in 
sheltered  situations,  on  high  trellises  or  arbors.  By  proper 
management,  the  vine  may  be  elevated  to  the  middle  story  of 


118  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

a  house  by  a  single  stem,  and  afterwards  trained  to  a  great 
height  according  to  the  taste  of  the  proprietor. 


INFLUENCE    OF    CLIMATE. 

Dr.  R.  T.  Underbill,  of  New  York,  has  a  vineyard  at  Croton 
Point,  near  Sing  Sing,  where,  after  having  sunk  thousands  of 
dollars  in  attempting  to  raise  the  most  celebrated  foreign 
varieties,  he  abandoned  the  project  as  visionary,  and  com- 
menced planting  the  Isabella  Grape  in  1832,  and  the  Catawba 
in  1835.  Mr.  Underbill  has  now  upwards  of  twenty  acres  of 
these  grapes,  chiefly  of  the  former,  under  the  most  successful 
cultivation.  He  says  that  the  Isabella  Grape  ripens  two  or 
three  weeks  earlier  than  the  Catawba,  and  that  these  two 
varieties  are,  in  his  estimation,  the  best  adapted  for  general 
purposes ;  the  former  yielding  with  him  a  more  valuable  crop 
than  any  other  with  which  he  is  acquainted.  He  says  that  the 
quality  of  this  fruit  has  improved  very  much  within  a  few 
years,  the  clusters  and  berries  being  much  larger  and  sweeter ; 
and  that  they  are  capable  of  still  greater  improvement  by  high 
cultivation. 

"  In  this  latitude  (south  of  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson), 
I  find  that  the  Isabella  Grape  ripens  quite  as  well  when 
planted  in  a  level  field,  protected  from  the  north  and  west 
winds  by  woods  or  hedges,  as  on  declivities.  Several  of  my 
vineyards  are  thus  located,  and,  as  far  as  I  can  perceive,  the 
fruit  ripens  at  about  the  same  time,  and  is  of  the  same 
quality  as  those  planted  on  steep  side-hills.  I  think,  however, 
that  north  of  the  highlands,  side-hills  would  be  preferable.  To 
prepare  the  ground  for  a  vineyard,  the  best  way  is  to  turn  over 
the  whole  of  the  surface  soil  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  in 
depth,  early  in  the  spring,  by  ploughing  twice  in  the  same  fur- 
row. This  will  place  the  richest  part  of  the  soil  in  a  position, 
where  it  will  give  the  greatest  supply  of  nourishment  to  the  vines. 
Few  vineyards  in  this  country  have  been  prepared  in  this  way. 
But  the  cost  is  so  small  and  the  advantages  so  great,  that  it 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


119 


120 


FRUIT-G  ARD  ENIN  G. 


should  be  done  wherever  there  are  no  rocks  or  large  stones  to 
prevent  it." 

HORIZONTAL    TRAINING. 

A  vine  may  be  trained  horizontally  under  the  coping  of  a 
close  fence  or  wall,  to  a  great  distance,  and  the  borders  in  an 
east,  south-east,  and  southern  aspect  of  large  gardens  may  be 
furnished  with  a  variety  of  sorts,  which  will  ripen  in  great  per- 
fection, without  encumbering  the  borders ;  or  the  plants  may 
be  trained  low,  like  currant-bushes ;  in  which  case,  three  or 


Training  in  the  Form  of  a  Tree. 

more  shoots,  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  in  length,  may  diverge 
from  the  stem  near  the  ground,  to  supply  young  wood  annu- 
ally for  bearing.  The  summer  pruning  consists  in  removing 
shoots  which  have  no  fruit,  or  are  not  required  for  the  succeed- 
ing season  ;  and  in  topping  fruit-bearing  shoots,  and  also  those 
for  succeeding  years  when  inconveniently  long  and  straggling. 
For  as,  by  this  mode,  the  shoots  destined  to  bear  are  all  cut 
into  three  or  four  eyes  at  the  winter  pruning,  no  inconvenience 
arises  from  their  throwing  out  laterals  near  the  extremities, 
which  topping  will  generally  cause  them  to  do. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  121 

In  training  vines  as  standards,  the  single  stem  at  the  bottom 
is  not  allowed  to  exceed  six  or  eight  inches  in  height,  and  from 
this  two  or  three  shoots  are  trained  or  tied  to  a  single  stake 
of  three  or  four  feet  in  length.  These  shoots  bear  each  two  or 
three  bunches,  within  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  the  ground ; 
and  they  are  annually  succeeded  by  others  which  spring  from 
their  base,  that  is,  from  the  crown  or  top  of  the  dwarf  main 
stem.  This  is  the  mode  practised  in  the  north  of  France  and 
in  Germany.  In  the  south  of  France  and  Italy,  the  base  or 
main  stem  is  often  higher,  and  furnished  with  side  shoots,  in 
order  to  afford  a  great  supply  of  bearing-wood,  which  is  tied  to 
one  or  more  poles  of  greater  height.  The  summer  pruning,  in 
this  case,  is  nearly  the  same  as  in  the  last.  In  the  winter 
pruning,  the  wood  that  has  borne  is  cut  out,  and  the  new  wood 
shortened,  in  cold  situations,  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  in 
warmer  places  to  six  or  eight  eyes. 

PINCHING   AND    RUBBING    OFF    BUDS. 

Nicoll  observes  that  "  most  of  the  summer  pruning  of  vines 
may  be  performed  with  the  fingers,  without  a  knife,  the  shoots 
to  be  displaced  being  easily  rubbed  off,  and  those  to  be  short- 
ened, being  little,  are  readily  pinched  asunder."  After  select- 
ing the  shoots  to  be  trained  for  the  production  of  a  crop  next 
season,  and  others  necessary  for  filling  the  trellis  from  the  bot- 
tom, which  shoots  should  generally  be  laid  in  at  the  distance 
of  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other,  rub  off  all  the 
others  that  have  no  clusters,  and  shorten  those  that  have,  at 
one  joint  above  the  uppermost  cluster.  For  this  purpose,  go 
over  the  plants  every  three  or  four  days  till  all  the  shoots  in 
fruit  have  shown  their  clusters,  at  the  same  time  rubbing  off 
any  water-shoots  that  may  rise  from  the  wood. 

Train  in  the  shoots  to  be  retained  as  they  advance.  If  there 
be  an  under  trellis,  on  which  to  train  the  summer  shoots,  they 
may,  when  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  or  when  the  Grapes  are 
swelling,  be  let  down  to  it,  that  the  fruit  may  enjoy  the  full  air 

6 


122  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  light  as  it  advances  towards  maturity.  Such  of  these 
shoots  as  issue  from  the  bottom,  and  are  to  be  shortened  in  the 
winter  pruning  to  a  few  eyes,  merely  for  the  production  of 
wood  to  fill  the  trellis,  may  be  stopped  when  they  have  grown 
to  the  length  of  four  or  five  feet.  Others  that  are  intended  to 
be  cut  down  to  about  two  yards,  and  which  issue  at  different 
heights,  may  be  stopped  when  they  have  run  three  yards,  or 
ten  feet,  less  or  more,  according  to  their  strength.  And  those 
intended  to  be  cut  at  or  near  the  top  of  the  trellis,  should  be 
trained  a  yard  or  two  down  the  back,  or  a  trellis  may  be  placed 
so  as  to  form  an  arbor ;  or  they  may  be  placed  to  run  right  or 
left  a  few  feet  on  the  uppermost  wire. 

The  stubs  or  shoots  on  which  the  clusters  are  placed  will 
probably  push  again  after  being  stopped,  if  the  plants  be  vigor- 
ous. If  so,  stop  them  again  and  again.  But  after  the  Grapes 
are  half  grown,  the  shoots  will  seldom  spring.  Observe  to 
divest  the  shoots,  in  training,  of  all  laterals  as  they  appear, 
except  the  uppermost  on  each,  in  order  to  provide  against  acci- 
dents, as  hinted  before,  in  training  the  newly-planted  vines. 
When  these  shoots  are  stopped,  as  directed  above,  they  will 
push  again.  Allow  the  lateral  that  pushes  to  run  a  few  joints, 
and  then  shorten  it  back  to  one,  and  so  on  as  it  pushes,  until  it 
stops  entirely.  When  the  proper  shoots  get  ripened  nearly  to 
the  top,  the  whole  may  be  cut  bact  to  the  originally  shortened 
part,  or  to  one  joint  above  it,  if  there  be  reason  to  fear  that  the 
uppermost  bud  of  the  proper  shoot  will  start.  Divest  the 
plants  of  all  damp  and  decayed  leaves  as  they  appear,  as  such 
will  sometimes  occur  in  continued  hazy  weather,  and  be  par- 
ticularly cautious  not  to  injure  the  leaf  that  accompanies  the 
bunch  ;  for  if  that  is  lost,  the  fruit  will  be  of  little  value. 

THINNING    THE    GREEN   FRUIT. 

"  Everyone  of  penetration  and  discernment,"  Nicoll  observes, 
"  will  admit  the  utility  of  thinning  the  berries  on  bunches  of 
Grapes,  in  order  that  they  may  have  room  to  swell  fully  ;  and, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  123 

further,  that  of  supporting  the  shoulders  of  such  clusters  of 
the  large-growing  kinds  as  hang  loosely,  and  require  to  be 
suspended  to  the  trellis  or  branches,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
bad  effects  of  damp  or  mouldiness  in  very  moist  seasons.  Of 
these,  the  Hamburgh,  Lombardy,  Royal  Muscadine,  Raisins, 
St.  Peter's,  Syrian,  Tokay,  and  others,  should  have  their  shoul- 
ders suspended  to  the  trellis,  or  to  the  branches,  by  strands  of 
fresh  matting,  when  the  berries  are  about  the  size  of  garden 
peas.  At  the  same  time,  the  clusters  should  be  regularly  thinned 
out  with  narrow-pointed  scissors,  to  the  extent  of  from  a  fourth 
to  a  third  part  of  the  berries.  The  other  close-growing  kinds, 
as  the  Frontignacs  and  Muscats,  should  likewise  be  moderately 
thinned,  observing  to  thin  out  the  small  seedless  berries  only 
of  the  Muscadine,  Sweet  Water,  and  flame-colored  Tokay.  In 
this  manner,  handsome  bunches  and  full-swelled  berries  may 
be  obtained ;  but  more  so,  if  the  clusters  of  overburdened  plants 
be  also  moderately  thinned  away.  Indeed,  cutting  off  the 
clusters,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  plants  overloaded,  and  pushing 
weak  wood,  are  the  only  means  by  which  to  cause  them  to 
produce  shoots  fit  to  bear  fruit  next  year ;  and  this  should  be 
duly  attended  to  so  long  as  the  future  welfare  of  the  plants 
is  a  matter  of  importance." 

ROSE-BUGS    ON    GRAPE-VINES. 

"When  the  rose-bugs  first  appear  on  the  vines,  they  are  so 
feeble  as  to  be  unable  to  fly  even  for  a  few  yards.  I  directed 
my  men  to  take  each  a  cup,  with  a  little  water  in  it,  and  go 
through  the  vineyards  every  morning,  removing  every  bug 
from  the  vines ;  and  this  was  done  quite  rapidly  by  passing 
the  cup  under  the  leaf  and  merely  touching  it,  when  the  bugs 
instantly  dropped,  and  were  received  in  the  cup  containing  the 
water.  When  the  cup  was  full,  they  were  soon  destroyed  by 
crushing  them  with  the  foot.  This  plan  was  persevered  in 
every  morning  as  long  as  a  bug  could  be  found,  and  was 
attended  with  such  success,  that  they  have  given  me  very  little 
trouble  since.  I  also  tried  ploughing  my  vineyards  just  before 


124  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

winter  set  in,  so  as  to  expose  to  the  weather  the  insect  in  the 
larva  state,  which  will  certainly  destroy  the  young  tribe  that 
have  not  descended  below  the  reach  of  the  plough.  For  two 
years  past  the  number  has  been  so  small  that  I  have  omitted 
this  process  for  their  destruction." — R.  T.  Underhill. 


MULBERRY. 

MURIER.     Morus. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Morus  or  Mulberry.  The 
white  kind  is  commonly  cultivated  for  its  leaves  to  feed  silk- 
worms, though  in  some  parts  of  Spain,  and  in  Persia,  they  are 
said  to  prefer  the  Black  Mulberry.  In  China,  both  sorts  are 
grown  for  this  purpose.  The  most  esteemed  variety  of  the 
white  is  grown  in  Italy,  and  especially  in  Lombardy,  with  vigor- 
ous shoots,  and  much  larger  leaves  than  the  other.  The  Morus 
multicaulis  is  cultivated  in  many  parts  of  France,  and  is  by 
some  preferred  to  all  other  varieties.  It  is  said  that  a  less 
quantity  of  foliage  from  this  variety  will  satisfy  the  silkworms. 
The  late  Andrew  Parmentier,  Esq.,  was  the  means  of  introduc- 
ing several  choice  varieties  from  that  country ;  and  our  nur- 
sery-men, in  general,  have  of  late  years  turned  their  attention 
to  the  cultivation  of  such  as  are  best  adapted  to  silkworms. 

In  France,  the  white  Mulberry  is  grown  as  pollard  Elms 
are  in  England.  In  Lombardy  it  is  grown  in  low,  marshy 
ground.  In  China  it  is  also  grown  in  moist  loamy  soil ;  and 
both  there  and  in  the  East  Indies,  as  low  bushes,  and  the 
plantations  rooted  up  and  renewed  every  three  or  four  years. 
In  many  parts,  when  the  leaves  are  wanted  for  the  worms, 
they  are  stripped  off  the  young  shoots,  which  are  left  naked  on 
the  tree ;  in  other  places  the  shoots  are  cut  off,  which  is  not 
so  injurious  to  the  tree,  while  the  points  of  the  shoots,  as  well 
as  the  leaves,  are  eaten  by  the  worms. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  125 

PROPAGATION   BY    SEEDS. 

The  plants  are  sometimes  raised  from  seed,  and  one  ounce 
of  seed  will  produce  five  thousand  trees,  if  sown  in  rich  loamy 
soil  in  the  latter  part  of  April,  or  early  in  May.  But  the 
young  plants  will  require  protection  the  first  winter.  The 
berries  are  put  in  a  sack  of  coarse  cloth,  crushed  with  a  foot 
or  with  the  hands,  and  the  pulpy  matter  all  washed  out,  leav- 
ing the  seeds  quite  clean.  They  are  then  spread  out  on 
boards  or  cloth,  and  dried  in  the  shade,  and  kept  in  a  cool  and 
dry  apartment  till  planting-time.  The  soil  should  be  very 
mellow,  and  in  a  good  state  of  fertility.  The  seeds  may  be 
planted  in  drills  four  feet  apart,  and  not  more  than  one  inch 
deep.  Half  an  inch  deep  is  better.  If  the  soil  be  heavy, 
cover  the  seed  with  leaf-mould,  or  some  other  fine  and  mellow 
dirt.  Cultivate  between  the  drills  with  a  horse-hoe ;  and  dress 
out  the  young  plants  as  if  they  were  carrots. 

PROPAGATION    BY    LAYERS. 

The  different  kinds  of  Mulberry  are  more  commonly  propa- 
gated by  layers  and  cuttings  put  down  in  the  spring.  The 
ground  is  well  prepared  and  enriched  the  previous  year ;  and 
the  cuttings  are  taken  from  the  trees  early  in  the  spring,  or 
even  in  the  winter,  and  kept  like  scions  till  the  ground  is  ready 
to  receive  them.  Transplant  the  cuttings  as  recommended  for 
currants  (which  see  on  a  previous  page),  and  cultivate  in  drills 
till  the  young  trees  are  of  a  suitable  size  to  transplant.  The 
Italian  variety  is  frequently  grafted  on  seedling  stocks  of  the 
common  sort,  in  order  to  preserve  it  from  degenerating.  In 
the  East  Indies,  the  plants  are  raised  from  cuttings,  three  or 
four  of  which  are  placed  together,  where  they  are  finally  to 
remain. 


THE  FRUIT. 

Mulberry-trees  are  valuable  for  their  fruit ;  and  in  England 


126  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

the  black  and  red  kinds  are  in  great  esteem,  and  much  culti- 
vated. The  fruit  of  the  white  Mulberry  is  white,  and  less  acid 
than  that  of  the  black  species.  The  black  is  naturally  a 
stronger  tree  than  the  other ;  the  fruit  is  of  a  dark,  blackish 
red,  and  of  an  agreeable  aromatic  and  acid  flavor.  The  red 
Mulberry  has  black  shoots,  rougher  leaves  than  the  black  Mul- 
berry, and  a  dark,  reddish  fruit,  longer  than  the  common  sort, 
and  of  a  very  pleasant  taste.  The  fruit  of  the  yellow  Mulberry 
is  sweet  and  wholesome,  but  not  much  eaten,  excepting  by 
birds.  The  timber,  however,  is  valuable,  from  its  abounding 
in  a  slightly  glutinous  milk  of  a  sulphurous  color,  and  is  known 
in  Europe  under  the  name  of  fustic  wood,  for  dying  a  yellow 
color.  In  Russia,  the  fruit  of  the  Morus  tartarica  is  eaten 
fresh,  conserved,  or  dried.  A  wine  and  a  spirit  are  also  made 
from  them ;  but  the  berries  are  said  to  be  of  an  insipid  taste. 

All  the  species  of  the  Morus  are  remarkable  for  putting  out 
their  leaves  late,  so  that  when  they  appear,  gardeners  may 
safely  set  out  their  green-house  plants,  taking  it  for  granted 
that  all  danger  from  frost  is  over.  From  this  circumstance, 
plantations  of  Mulberry-trees  may  be  made  in  this  country  in 
the  spring  of  the  year  with  greater  safety. 

The  Mulberry  produces  its  fruit  chiefly  on  little  shoots  of 
the  same  year,  which  arise  on  last  year's  wood  and  on  spurs 
from  the  two-year-old  wood,  mostly  at  the  ends  of  the  shoots 
and  the  branches.  In  pruning,  thin  out  irregular  crossing 
branches,  but  never  shorten  the  young  wood  on  which  fruit  is 
produced.  If  any  of  the  dwarfish  kinds  are  cultivated  as  espa- 
liers for  their  fruits,  cut  so  as  to  bring  in  a  partial  succession 
of  new  wood  every  year,  and  a  complete  succession  once  in 
two  years,  taking  the  old  barren  wood  out,  as  may  be  neces- 
sary. As  the  blossom-buds  cannot  be  readily  distinguished 
from  others  in  the  winter,  the  best  period  for  pruning  is  when 
the  blossoms  first  become  visible  in  the  spring. 

THE    PAPER    MULBERRY. 

There  is  another  genus  of  plants,  known  as  the  Paper  Mul- 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  127 

berry,  which  is  very  ornamental,  called  Broussonetia papyrifera. 
Though  a  low  tree,  it  has  vigorous  shoots,  furnished  with  two 
large  leaves.  The  fruit,  which  is  small,  is  surrounded  with 
long  purple  hairs,  changing  to  a  black  purple  color  when  ripe, 
and  full  of  juice.  "  In  China  and  Japan  it  is  cultivated  for 
the  sake  of  the  young  shoots,  from  the  bark  of  which  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Eastern  countries  make  paper.  The  bark 
being  separated  from  the  wood,  is  steeped  in  water,  the  former 
making  the  whitest  and  best  paper.  The  bark  is  next  slowly 
boiled,  then  washed,  and  afterwards  put  upon  a  wooden  table, 
and  beat  into  a  pulp,  which  being  put  in  water,  separates  like 
grains  of  meal.  An  infusion  of  rice,  and  the  root  of  manihot, 
are  next  added  to  it.  From  the  liquor  so  prepared,  the  sheets 
of  paper  are  poured  out  one  by  one,  and  when  pressed  the 
operation  is  finished." 

"  The  juice  of  this  tree  is  sufficiently  tenacious  to  be  used 
in  China  as  a  glue,  in  gilding  either  leather  or  paper.  The 
finest  and  whitest  cloth  worn  by  the  principal  people  at  Ota- 
heite,  and  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  is  made  of  the  bark  of  this 
tree.  The  cloth  of  the  Bread  Fruit  tree  is  inferior  in  whiteness 
and  softness,  and  worn  chiefly  by  the  common  people." 

VALUE    OF   THE    WOOD. 

The  wood  of  Mulberry  is  more  durable  than  the  best  of 
White  Oak,  when  it  is  exposed  to  the  influences  of  the  weather. 
For  fence-posts,  it  will  out-last  white  cedar ;  and  it  is  nearly 
equal  in  durability  to  red  cedar.  I  know  of  posts  in  Connec- 
ticut that  have  been  set  in  the  ground  for  fifty  years  and  are 
yet  sound. 


NECTARINE. 

PECHERA  FRUIT  LISSE,  ou  BRUGNONS.     Amygdalus  nectarina. 

The  varieties  of   this  fruit  resemble   the   Peach  in  every 

respect,  except  that  the  skin  is  smooth,  of  a  waxen  appearance, 


128  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  the  flesh  generally  more  firm.  Although  of  the  same 
genus  as  the  Peach,  which  is  so  plentiful  in  this  country,  the 
fruit  of  the  Nectarine  is  quite  a  rarity,  and  seldom  appears  in 
our  markets.  There  are  seventy-two  varieties  cultivated  in  the 
Horticultural  Gardens  of  London  under  name. 

It  is  generally  allowed  that  their  failure  here  is  occasioned 
by  the  attacks  of  insects.  The  most  efficacious  method  that  I 
have  heard  of  for  securing  anything  like  a  crop  of  Nectarines, 
is  to  fumigate  the  trees  in  the  evening,  when  the  air  is  calm 
and  serene,  at  the  season  when  the  fruit  is  ready  to  set.  To- 
bacco is  the  most  effectual  antidote  for  these  insects ;  but  a 
friend  of  mine  collected  a  quantity  of  salt  hay  that  had  been 
used  for  his  Spinach  the  preceding  winter ;  with  this  he  created 
a  smoke,  first  on  one  side  of  his  plantation,  and  afterwards  on 
the  other,  by  which  means  he  obtained  a  good  supply  of  fruit. 
Our  enterprising  horticulturist,  Mr.  W.  Shaw,  has  succeeded  in 
gathering  fine  fruit  by  training  his  trees  against  a  close  fence ; 
and  it  has  been  discovered  by  others  that  the  Nectarine,  like 
the  Grape-vine,  will  yield  best  in  sheltered  situations.  That 
eminent  horticulturist,  Mr.  David  Thomas,  observes  that  "  A  vast 
quantity  of  fruit  is  annually  destroyed  by  the  Curculio,  which 
causes  the  Plum,  Apricot,  and  Nectarine  prematurely  to  drop 
from  the  tree.  To  prevent  this  loss,  let  the  tree,  after  the 
blossoms  fall,  be  frequently  shaken  by  a  cord  connected  with  a 
swinging-door,  or  with  a  working  pump-handle  ;  or  let  the 
bugs  be  jarred  from  the  tree  on  sheets  spread  beneath  the  tree 
and  killed.  Or  keep  geese  enough  in  the  fruit-garden  to  de- 
vour all  the  damaged  fruit  as  it  falls.  We  know  that  this  last 
method  is  infallible." 

As  some  may  object  to  shaking  or  jarring  fruit  trees,  for  fear 
of  disturbing  the  fruit,  such  are  here  reminded,  that  if  the 
blossoms  set  more  fruit  than  can  be  supported,  it  will  not  come 
to  full  perfection,  and  the  trees  may  be  injured  in  their  future 
bearing ;  for  these  reasons,  when  fruit  sets  too  thick,  it  should 
be  thinned  in  an  early  stage  of  its  growth. 

The  Nectarine,  as  also  the  Peach-tree,  is  subject  to  injury 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  129 

by  an  insect  different  from  the  Curculio  species,  which  feeds 
on  the  sap  beneath  the  bark,  principally  near  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  but  if  not  checked,  will  commit  ravages  on  the  trunk 
and  root,  so  as  to  eventually  destroy  the  tree.  The  egg  is  sup- 
posed to  be  first  deposited  in  the  upper  part  of  the  tree  ;  and 
in  the  months  of  June  and  July  it  becomes  a  very  small  mag- 
got, which  drops  to  the  ground  and  approaches  the  tree  near 
the  surface.  If  the  ground  be  kept  clear  around  the  roots,  as 
it  ought  always  to  be,  the  worm  can  readily  be  detected  by  a 
small  speck  of  gum,  which  appears  on  the  tree  after  it  has 
made  its  entrance,  which  gumminess  will  increase  in  quantity 
as  it  progresses.  But  if  the  trees  are  thoroughly  examined 
about  once  a  week,  or  ten  days,  and  the  gum,  wherever  found, 
removed  by  means  of  a  small  knife  or  pointed  wire,  the  worm 
may  be  at  once  defeated  from  making  any  havoc  on  the  trees. 
An  orchard  of  several  acres  may  be  kept  free  from  worms  by 
going  over  it  a  few  times.  After  a  shower  of  rain  is  a  good 
time,  as  the  gum  can  then  be  more  easily  discovered ;  and  when 
it  is  removed,  the  wound  will  soon  heal  up,  and  the  danger  is 
over,  provided  the  ground  be  kept  cultivated  around  the  trees, 
and  the  collar,  or  that  part  from  which  emanate  the  main  roots, 
be  near  the  surface. 

ILL   EFFECTS    OF   PLANTING   TOO    DEEP. 

This  is  an  important  precaution,  and  should  be  attended  to 
at  the  time  of  transplanting  all  descriptions  of  trees  and  smaller 
plants ;  because  deep  planting  prevents  the  essential  circulation 
of  the  juices  of  plants  in  their  regular  and  natural  courses,  and 
consequently  causes  disease  and  premature  death  ;  and  it  must 
be  admitted,  that  from  the  circumstance  of  this  fruit  being 
generally  raised  on  standard  trees,  and  in  a  light  soil,  our  cul- 
tivators are  apt  to  plant  too  deep ;  and  thus  act  contrary  to 
sound  judgment  and  philosophy,  with  a  view  to  save  the 
trouble  and  expense  of  staking  or  otherwise  supporting  their 
newly-planted  trees,  which  precaution  is  absolutely  necessary 

6* 


130  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

to  their  preservation,  even  in  less  tempestuous  climates,  and  in 
stiff  as  well  as  in  light  soil. 

SALTPETRE    FOR   NECTARINES. 

Saltpetre  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  five 
gallons  of  water,  and  applied  around  the  stems  and  roots  of 
trees,  as  recommended  for  plants  in  general,  is,  in  my  opinion, 
one  of  the  best  remedies  for  the  destruction  of  various  kinds 
of  insects.  It  is,  moreover,  allowed  by  modern  and  learned 
physiologists  to  contain  the  most  essential  nutriment  for  all 
descriptions  of  trees  or  smaller  plants,  when  judiciously  used. 
Other  remedies  are  recommended  to  be  applied  for  the  destruc- 
tion of  these  insects  around  fruit-trees,  besides  those  pre- 
viously mentioned  ;  as  dissolved  potash,  coal-tar,  sulphur,  vine- 
gar, and  soapsuds.  Culture,  upon  correct  principles,  will  ope- 
rate not  only  as  a  radical  cure,  but  as  a  preventive  to  all  defects 
in  trees  and  plants ;  which,  to  be  healthy  and  productive, 
should  be  so  managed  that  the  sap  and  nutrimental  juices  can 
circulate  through  every  pore  which  nature  has  designed  for 
their  perpetuity. 

PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING. 

The  Nectarine  is  generally  budded  on  stocks  of  the  same 
species,  or  on  the  Peach  or  Plum,  two  or  three  years  old. 
Knight  recommends  growing  Almond-stocks  for  the  finer  kinds 
of  Nectarines  and  Apricots,  as  likely  to  prevent  the  mildew,  and 
as  being  allied  to  the  Peach.  Dubreuil  recommends  a  Plum- 
stock  for  clayey  soils,  and  the  Almond  for  such  as  are  light, 
chalky,  or  sandy.  The  same  opinion  is  held  by  the  Montreal 
gardeners.  The  Flemish  nursery-men  graft  both  the  Peach  and 
Nectarine  on  the  Myrabella  Plum,  a  small  cherry-shaped  fruit. 

The  budding  may  be  performed  in  July  or  August,  in  the  side  of 
the  stock  ;  which  will,  if  properly  managed,  shoot  the  following 
spring,  and  attain  the  length  of  three  or  four  feet  the  first  year. 
After  the  budded  trees  have  ripened  their  first  year's  shoots, 
they  may  either  be  planted  where  they  are  to  remain,  or 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  131 

retained  in  the  nursery  for  two,  three,  or  four  years,  till  in  a 
bearing  state.  Whether  the  plants  be  removed  into  the  orchard 
at  a  year  old,  or  remain  in  the  nursery,  the  first  shoots  from 
the  bud  must  be  headed  down  in  a  judicious  manner,  in  order 
to  promote  the  most  desirable  form.  In  annual  pruning,  thin 
out  superfluous  branches  and  dry  wood,  and  shorten  the  bear- 
ing-shoots. Nectarines  may  be  trained  to  a  close  fence  or  wall, 
in  private  gardens ;  in  which  case,  such  plants  should  be  chosen 
as  are  budded  low.  (See  article  on  Apricot.)  The  Nectarine 
may  be  raised  from  the  seed,  planted  the  same  as  Peach-pits. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  NECTARINES. 

FREESTONE     NECTARINES. 

AROMATIC.  A  middle-sized,  rather  globular  fruit,  skin  pale 
straw-color,  with  deep  red  or  brown  next  the  sun ;  flesh  pale 
straw,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  juice  of  a  rich  vinous  flavor ;  ripe 
early  in  August. 

BOSTON,  Lewis's  Seedling.  A  fine  native  variety,  raised  by 
Mr.  Lewis,  of  Boston ;  fruit  of  medium  size ;  heart-shaped ; 
color  bright  yellow,  mottled  with  red;  flesh  yellow,  firm, 
pleasant,  and  peculiar  in  flavor ;  ripe  in  September. 

ELRUGE,  Claremont,  Temple's,  Vermash  of  some  collections.^ 
One  of  the  very  best  and  most  highly  flavored  Nectarines ; 
fruit  medium  size,  of  a  green  or  pale  yellow  color,  with  violet 
cheek ;  pulp  whitish,  melting,  very  juicy,  rich,  and  high-flavor- 
ed ;  ripens  early  in  August. 

FAIRCHILD'S  EARLY.  Fruit  very  early,  but  small ;  of  globu- 
lar shape,  yellow  in  the  shade,  deep  scarlet  next  the  sun ;  flesh 
yellow,  not  juicy,  but  well  flavored ;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

PERKINS'S  SEEDLING.  A  very  large  beautiful  Nectarine, 
raised  by  S.  G.  Perkins,  from  the  Boston,  Lewises  Seedling ;  the 
form  is  globular ;  color  bright  yellow,  with  dark  crimson  on  one 
side;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  and  high  flavored  ;  ripe  in  September 


132  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

PITMASTON'S  ORANGE.  A  good-sized  globular,  almost  heart 
shaped  fruit,  of  a  rich  yellow  color,  but  dark  crimson  or  purple 
next  the  sun ;  flesh  golden  yellow,  but  red  next  the  stone,  from 
which  it  separates ;  it  is  melting,  juicy,  saccharine,  and  high 
flavored ;  ripe  in  August. 

SCARLET.  A  middle-sized  fruit,  somewhat  ovate,  of  a  beau- 
tiful scarlet  color  next  the  sun,  and  pale  red  on  the  shaded 
side ;  the  flesh  separates  from  the  stone,  and  is  at  maturity  in 
August. 

VERMASH.  True  Vermash.  This  fruit  is  rather  of  small 
size  and  roundish  form,  tapering  towards  the  eye ;  the  skin  is 
of  a  very  deep  red  color  next  the  sun,  and  of  a  greenish  hue 
on  the  other  side ;  flesh  white,  rich,  melting,  and  juicy ;  at 
maturity  in  August. 

VIOLET,  Violette  Native,  Petite  Violette  Native,  Lord  Selsetfs 
Elruge,  Large  Scarlet.  Fruit  variable  in  size,  generally  medium ; 
pale  yellowish-green,  but  darkish  purple  and  red  next  the  sun  ; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent;  ripe  in  July  and 
August. 

WHITE,  OR  FLANDERS  NECTARINE,  New  White,  Emerson's 
New  White,  Neates  White.  A  middle-sized,  roundish,  very  pale 
fruit,  slightly  tinged  with  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  tender  and 
juicy,  with  a  fine  vinous  flavor ;  ripe  in  August. 

CLINGSTONES,    OR   PAVIES. 

BRUGNON  VIOLET  MUSQUE,  Brugnon  Musque.  Fruit  large, 
of  a  deep  red  and  yellow  color ;  skin  very  smooth ;  flesh 
yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  saccharine,  vinous,  musky ;  at 
maturity  in  August  and  September. 

EARLY  NEWINGTON,  Large  Black  Newington,  Lucombejs 
Seedling.  Fruit  below  the  medium  size,  ovate;  skin  pale 
green,  and  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  deep  red  color ;  pulp  super- 
excellent  ;  considered  by  some  as  the  best  of  all  Nectarines ; 
ripe  in  August  and  September. 

GOLDEN.  Fruit  medium  size,  of  the  finest  orange  color, 
delicately  and  beautifully  mottled  with  red  next  the  sun,  which 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  133 

gives  to  it  a  clear  waxen  appearance ;  flesh  firm,  yellow,  pale 
red  at  tlie  stone,  and  has  a  poignant  rich  flavor ;  ripens  in 
August  and  September. 

RED  ROMAN,  Roman  Red.  A  very  excellent  Nectarine,  of 
large  size ;  the  skin  dark  red  next  the  sun,  and  of  a  yellowish 
hue  on  the  other  side  ;  flesh  yellowish,  but  red  next  the  stone  ; 
it  abounds  with  rich  juice  when  fully  ripe,  in  August  and 
September. 

SCARLET  NEWINGTON,  Late  Newington,  Sion  Hill.  This 
variety  is  much  esteemed,  the  fruit  is  large,  of  a  beautiful  red 
color  next  the  sun,  and  of  a  fine  yellow  or  amber  on  the  other 
side ;  its  quality  is  excellent,  being  rich  and  juicy ;  early  in 
September. 

TAWNY  NEWINGTON.  Fruit  large,  somewhat  ovate  ;  tawny- 
colored,  marbled  with  dull  red  or  orange  next  the  sun ;  flesh 
pale  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  very  juicy,  sugary,  and  of 
the  most  delicious  flavor;  ripens  in  August  and  September. 
This,  in  England,  is  considered  one  of  the  best  of  clingstone 
Nectarines. 


ORANGE,  LEMON,  &o. 

ORANGER,  CITRONIER.     Citrus. 

Notwithstanding  this  fruit,  and  also  the  Lemon  and  Lime, 
are  attainable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  by  supplies  from 
our  Southern  States,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  South  of  Europe, 
yet  the  plants  are  entitled  to  our  notice  on  account  of  their 
being  so  easily  cultivated,  and  from  their  affording  an  orna- 
ment by  exhibiting  their  fruit  the  whole  of  the  year.  The 
Orange  is  generally  cultivated  as  a  green-house  plant;  but 
may  be  kept  in  a  light  room  throughout  our  severe  winters, 
provided  the  temperature  is  not  suffered  to  be  below  the  freez- 
ing point,  32  degrees.  Its  recommendations  are,  handsome 
evergreen,  shining,  tree-like  form ;  most  odoriferous  flowers, 


134  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  brilliant,  fragrant,  and  delicious  fruits,  which  succeed  each 
other  perpetually,  and  are  not  unfrequently  seen  on  the  tree  at 
the  same  time,  in  two  or  three  stages  of  growth. 

All  the  species  of  Citrus  endure  the  open  air  at  Nice,  Genoa, 
and  Naples ;  but  at  Florence  and  Milan,  and  often  at  Rome, 
they  require  protection  during  the  winter,  and  are  generally 
planted  in  conservatories  and  sheds.  Loudon  says  that  in  the 
south  of  Devonshire,  and  particularly  at  Saltcombe,  may  be 
seen  in  a  few  gardens,  Orange-trees  that  have  withstood  the 
winter  in  the  open  air  upwards  of  a  hundred  years.  The  fruit 
is  as  large  and  fine  as  any  from  Portugal.  Trees  raised  from 
seed,  and  inoculated  on  the  spot,  are  found  to  bear  the  cold 
better  than  trees  imported. 

Any  of  the  varieties  of  the  Orange,  Lemon,  Lime,  Shaddock, 
Citron,  etc.,  may  be  grafted  or  budded  on  stocks  of  the  com- 
mon Orange  or  Lemon ;  but  seed  of  the  Shaddocks  and  Citrons 
produces  the  strongest  stocks,  and  on  these  may  be  grafted 
such  kinds  as  may  be  needed  for  a  conservatory.  The  most 
suitable  time  for  budding  is  July  and  August ;  but  this  opera- 
tion may  be  performed  at  any  time  when  the  sap  is  in  motion. 
The  directions  for  the  management  of  green-house  plants  apply 
also  to  this  family  of  plants. 


PEACH. 

PECHER.     Amygdalus  Per  ska. 

The  PeacJi,  plump  and  ripe,  brings  us  excellent  fare, 
Let  the  Nectarine,  too,  in  thft  eulogy  share— 
Their  flavor  how  grateful — their  juices  how  fine, 
Unequaird  in  taste  by  the  fruit  of  the  vino. 

It  is  generally  considered  that  the  Peach  is  of  Persian 
origin.  In  Media,  it  is  deemed  unwholesome ;  but  when 
planted  in  Egypt,  becomes  pulpy,  delicious,  and  salubrious.  It 
has  been  cultivated,  time  immemorial,  in  most  parts  of  Asia. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  135 

When  it  was  introduced  into  Greece  is  uncertain.  The  best 
Peaches  in  Europe  are  supposed  to  be  grown  in  Italy,  on  stand- 
ards. 

Although  this  fruit  will  thrive  in  any  sweet,  pulverized  soil 
that  is  properly  prepared,  a  rich  sandy  loam  is  the  most 
suitable.  Next  to  the  selection  and  preparation  of  a  suitable 
soil,  a  choice  of  good  healthy  trees  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance. The  seed  for  stocks  should  be  selected  from  the  vigor- 
ous growing  young,  or  middle-aged  healthy  trees;  and  the 
buds  should  be  taken  from  some  of  the  choicest  fruit-bearing 
trees  that  can  be  found.  Let  the  stocks  be  fairly  tested  before 
they  are  budded ;  and  if  any  infection  exist  in  the  stocks,  or 
in  the  vicinity  where  the  choice  buds  are  found,  reject  them 
if  you  wish  to  rear  a  healthy  progeny ;  as  more  depends  upon 
these  particular  points  than  many  are  aware  of. 

BUDDING    PEACH-TREES. 

In  this  country  the  Peach  is  generally  budded  on  stocks  of 
its  own  kind ;  but  in  England  it  is  often  budded  on  damask 
Plum-stocks,  and  some  of  the  more  delicate  sorts  on  Apricot 
stocks,  or  old  Apricot-trees  cut  down ;  or  on  seedling  Peaches, 
Almonds,  or  Nectarines.  (See  article  Nectarine.)  Cobbett 
says:  "There  are  thousands  of  Peach-trees  in  England  and 
France  that  are  fifty  years  old,  and  that  are  still  in  vigorous 
fruitfulness."  He  attributes  the  swift  decay  of  the  Peach-trees 
here  to  their  being  grafted  on  stocks  of  their  kind.  Mr. 
Michael  Floy,  of  the  Harlem  Nursery,  makes  the  following 
observations  on  this  subject,  which  he  says  are  the  result  of 
thirty  years'  experience  as  a  nursery-man  in  the  vicinity  of 
New  York : 

"  In  this  country  Peaches  are  generally  budded  on  Peach- 
stocks.  Their  growth  is  rapid,  and  they  will  form  a  tree 
large  enough  to  transplant  from  the  nursery,  the  first  and 
second  year  after  budding.  Notwithstanding  the  rapid  growth 
of  our  peaches,  and  their  coming  to  maturity  so  early,  with 
but  little  care  and  trouble,  it  must  at  the  same  time  be  admit- 


136  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

ted  that  they  too  often  decay  with  almost  the  same  celerity. 
A  question  here  will  naturally  arise  on  this  subject.  What  can 
be  done  to  remedy  this  ? 

" CAUSE    OF    PREMATURE    DECAY. 

"I  think  the  Peach -stock  is  defective,  and  is  not  sufficiently 
strong  and  lasting  to,  make  a  permanent  tree.  The  roots  are 
soft  and  delicate,  very  liable  to  rot  in  cold  heavy  ground,  par- 
ticularly if  suffered  to  stand  in  a  sod,  or  where  the  ground  is 
not  kept  clean,  dry,  and  manured  every  season.  Secondly. 
Supposing  that  the  trees  are  planted  in  a  warm  free  soil  (which 
is  the  proper  soil  for  the  Peach)  they  are  liable  to  the  attacks  of 
the  worm,  which  eats  into  their  roots,  and  barks  the  trees  all 
around,  until  the  trees  are  completely  destroyed.  No  better 
method  of  destroying  these  worms  has  been  discovered  than 
simply  digging  round  the  trees,  and  examining  the  infested 
plants,  and  where  gum  is  seen  oozing  out,  there  the  worm  may 
be  generally  found  and  destroyed. 

"  I  think  an  effectual  remedy  against  this  intruder  may  be 
found,  by  budding  Peaches  and  Nectarines  on  the  common 
bitter  ALMOND  STOCK.  The  worm  does  not  like  this  stock. 
Peach  scions  will  take  on  it,  and  grow  .about  as  freely  as  on 
the  common  Peach-stock.  Thirdly.  The  Peach-stock  causes 
the  Peaches  and  Nectarines  to  grow  too  rapidly,  making 
strong  shoots,  these  producing  secondary  or  lateral  shoots; 
and  the  fruit  of  the  following  summer  is  produced  on  the 
top  of  these  lateral  shoots,  instead  of  being  produced  on  the 
principal  or  first  shoots.  This  causes  naked  wood  at  the  bottom  ; 
and  a  straggling,  unsightly  tree,  whose  branches  being  heavy 
at  the  top  with  the  fruit,  are  broken  down  by  high  winds." 

The  illustrations  of  peach-trees  represent  the  right  way  and 
the  wrong  way  of  pruning  peach-trees.  If  the  branches  be  not 
shortened  in  every  year,  the  limbs  will  become  long  and  bare, 
except  at  the  ends ;  and  the  fruit  will  be  very  inferior.  On 
the  contrary,  if  the  ends  of  the  limbs  be  clipped  off  the  inside 
of  the  top  will  be  filled  with  bearing-branches  of  excellent 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


137 


fruit.     Beginners  should  aim  to  have  the  tops  of  their  peach- 
trees  well  filled  up  with  bearing  branches.     By  pruning  a  little 


Peach-Tree  badly  Pruned. 


A  Peach-Tree  well  Pruned. 

every  year,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  doing  it  in  a  most  satis- 
factory manner. 

THE    YELLOWS. 

For  several  years  past  Peach-trees  have  been  subject  to  what 
has  been  deemed  a  disease  called  the  yellows,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  the  trees  having  a  yellow  and  sickly  appearance. 
Much  curious  philosophy  has  been  spent  on  this  subject  with- 


138  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

out  arriving  at  any  satisfactory  conclusion.  As  a  remedy  for 
the  .yellows  Mr.  Floy  recommends  budding  the  Peach  on  Plum- 
stocks.  He  writes: — "The  Plum-stock  is  undoubtedly  the 
best  foi  Peaches  and  Nectarines  in  the  Northern  and  Eastern 
States ;  but  especially  for  open  dwarfs  or  espaliers,  for  which  I 
give  the  following  reasons: — First.  The  Plum-stock  prevents 
the  too  rapid  growth  of  the  shoots,  and  causes  the  principals  to 
bear  the  fruit  the  following  season,  instead  of  producing  late- 
ral shoots  the  same  season,  and  causing  the  tree  to  be  more 
dwarf.  The  branches  are  strong  and  fruitful  to  the  bottom  of 
the  shoot,  thereby  having  more  fruit  in  a  smaller  compass. 
Secondly.  It  makes  harder  and  less  pithy  wood,  and  enables 
it  the  better  to  withstand  the  cold ;  and  this  may  be  easily 
proved  by  cutting  the  branches  of  each.  The  shoot  on  the 
Plum-stock  will  be  twice  as  hard  and  firm  as  the  one  on  the 
Peach-stock.  But,  Thirdly,  and  the  most  important  reason  is, 
that  the  Plum  ceases  to  send  up  its  sap  early  in  autumn, 
causing  the  Peach  to  perfect  its  wood  before  the  cold  weather 
sets  in." 

It  is  also  evident  that  a  tree  deprived  of  its  functions  or 
means  of  growing  luxuriantly,  is  in  a  similar  situation  to  a  dis- 
eased animal.  If  disease  be  not  checked  before  the  juices  of 
the  tree  become  putrid,  it  will  not  only  die,  but  will  contami- 
nate the  earth  in  which  it  is  planted,  to  the  destruction  of  its 
neighboring  inmates  of  the  garden  or  field.  All  experienced 
nursery-men  admit  this  to  be  the  case  with  diseased  Peach- 
trees,  and  some  have  actually  abandoned  their  Peach-orchards, 
and  chosen  fresh  ground  for  new  plantations. 

It  is  precisely  the  same  with  smaller  vegetable  plants,  A 
diseased  Cabbage,  for  instance,  by  its  excremental  and  corrupt 
juices  being  spent  in  the  ground,  will  render  the  cultivation  of 
the  same  or  allied  species  a  casualty ;  and  daily  observation 
teacheth,  that  young  and  thrifty  plants  often  fall  a  prey  to 
worms  and  reptiles  which  were  generated  by  a  previous  crop. 

Deep  planting  and  injudicious  culture  are  the  causes 
of  most  of  the  diseases  and  failures  of  fruit-trees ;  and  in 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  139 

this  way  I  account  for  Peaches  being  less  plentiful  than  they 
were  when  left  almost  to  nature ;  which  was  the  case,  I  vam 
informed,  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  That  this 
malpractice  in  horticulture  is  general,  the  most  superficial 
observer  may  discover  by  comparing  the  thrifty  growth  of 
those  trees  scattered  by  nature  in  our  highways  and  byways 
with  many  of  those  aided  by  the  art  of  man.  If  any  of  my 
readers  should  require  proof  of  my  assertions,  I  can  show  them 
from  the  window  of  the  room  where  this  article  is  being  writ- 
ten, scores  of  living,  or  rather  dying  evidences  of  the  evil  of 
deep  planting. 

PRUNING  .  AND    TRANSPLANTING. 

All  the  varieties  of  the  Peach  produce  their  fruit  upon  the 
young  wood  of  a  year  old,  the  blossom-buds  rising  immedi- 
ately from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots.  The  same  shoots  seldom 
bear  after  the  first  year,  except  on  some  casual  small  spurs  on 
the  two  years'  wood,  which  is  not  to  be  counted  upon.  Hence 
the  trees  are  to  be  pruned  as  bearing  entirely  on  the  shoots  of 
the  preceding  year,  and  a  full  supply  of  regular  grown  shoots 
must  be  retained  for  successional  bearers.  Cut  out  the  redun- 
dant shoots,  and  all  decayed  and  dead  wood,  and  reduce  some 
of  the  firmer  bearers,  cutting  the  most  naked  quite  away. 

A  Peach  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  bud 
is  established,  until  the  trees  are  three  or  four  years  old, 
which  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  from  each 
other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees.  The  dwarf  kinds 
may  be  introduced  into  the  kitchen-garden,  and  trained  against 
fences,  as  directed  for  the  Apricot,  or  as  espaliers  or  dwarf 
standards. 

A  judicious  pruning  of  Peach,  Nectarine,  and  other  kinds 
of  young  trees  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  long,  straggling 
growth  of  limbs  which  are  frequently  bare  of  shoots  for  some 
distance  from  the  body  of  the  tree,  which  should  be  shortened, 
to  cause  the  production  of  lateral  shoots.  An  annual  sum- 


140  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

mer  pruning  is  essential  to  the  well-being  of  a  tree,  as  by 
shortening  the  wood  of  the  preceding  year's  growth,  a  symme- 
trical tree  containing  a  good  supply  of  bearing-wood  may  be 
formed.  By  this  treatment  the  longevity  of  a  tree  will  be 
promoted,  provided  the  work  is  done  with  judgment  and  care, 
so  as  not  to  render  the  tree  impervious  to  the  influence  of  the 
sun  and  air ;  for,  be  it  remembered,  the  head  of  a  tree  must 
always  be  kept  moderately  open,  for  the  purpose  of  giving 
the  fruit  the  best  possible  chance  of  ripening  perfectly. 

Divest  young  budded  and  grafted  trees  of  all  shoots  from 
the  stocks,  below  the  bud  or  graft,  as  they  appear ;  also  rub 
off  all  useless  buds  in  early-shooting  wall  trees. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES. 

FREESTONE    PEACHES. 

ASTOR.  An  excellent  variety,  originating  in  the  city  of  New 
York ;  the  fruit  is  above  medium  size ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with 
red  cheek ;  flesh  melting  and  pleasant  flavored ;  juice  sweet 
and  plentiful ;  ripe  the  latter  end  of  August  and  early  in  Sep- 
tember. 

BEERS'S  RED  RARERIPE,  Middletown  Late  Red  Rareripe. 
Fruit  very  large,  of  oblong  shape ;  skin  nearly  white,  with  a 
red  cheek ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  and  high  flavored.  This  variety 
originated  with  Joseph  Beers  of  Middletown,  New  Jersey ;  it 
ripens  there  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  September,  and  is 
represented  as  a  good  market  fruit. 

BELLE  DE  VITRY,  Admirable  Tardive,  Bellis,  Beauty  of  Vitry 
A  large  fruit,  of  fine  red  color  next  the  sun ;  on  the  opposite 
side  a  yellowish  white ;  flesh  white,  stained  with  red  at  the 
stone ;  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  and  excellent ;  ripe  early  in 
September. 

BELLEGARDE,  Galande,  Violette  Hative,  Noire  de  Montreuil. 
Smooth-Leaved  Royal  George  of  some.  The  tree  is  vigorous 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  141 

and  productive ;  fruit  above  medium  size,  globular ;  skin  green- 
ish-yellow, and  on  the  sunny  side  rich  deep  red,  with  dark 
purple  streaks ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  very  melting,  saccharine,  and 
juicy ;  a  first-rate  fruit,  early  in  September. 

BUONAPARTE.  A  fine  early  variety,  introduced  by  Joseph 
Buonaparte,  and  recommended  by  Caleb  R.  Smith,  of  Burling- 
ton, New  Jersey,  as  being  the  best  market  fruit  known  at  that 
place ;  its  color  is  red,  mottled  with  yellow ;  flesh  melting ; 
juice  sweet  and  delicious,  in  August. 

BREVOORT'S  SEEDLING  MELTER,  Brevoorfs  Morris.  A  supe- 
rior Peach,  raised  by  Henry  Brevoort,  Esq.,  of  New  York. 
Skin  of  a  dingy  white  color,  with  red  cheek ;  flesh  white,  firm, 
rich,  and  sugary ;  ripe  by  the  middle  of  August. 

COLUMBIA.  Fruit  of  medium  size ;  skin  rough  and  thin ; 
color  dull  red ;  flesh  yellow,  fibrous,  similar  to  a  pineapple  ; 
juicy  and  rich.  It  is  supposed  that  this  Peach  originated  with 
Mr.  Cox.  It  is  a  singular  variety. 

COOLEDGE'S  FAVORITE,  Cooledge's  Early  Red  Rareripe.  A 
large  handsome  globular  fruit ;  skin  red,  tinged  with  crimson ; 
flesh  very  melting,  juicy,  and  of  delicious  flavor,  in  August. 
The  tree  is  vigorous  and  very  productive. 

CRAWFORD'S  EARLY  MELOCOTON,  Early  Crawford.  Fruit 
large,  oblong;  skin  yellow  and  red;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet, 
with  an  agreeable  acidity.  It  originated  with  Mr.  Crawford, 
Middletown,  New  Jersey.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the 
fruit  is  considered  one  of  the  most  marketable  varieties,  in 
August  and  September. 

CRAWFORD'S  LATE  MALACATUNE.  Fruit  very  large,  round  ; 
skin  yellow  and  red ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  juicy,  and  excellent. 
It  is  highly  estimated  at  Middletown  for  its  productiveness  and 
adaptation  for  market ;  in  September  and  October. 

DOUBLE  MONTAGNE,  Sion  Early,  Double  Mountain,  Montau- 
lan.  A  beautiful  and  excellent  Peach  of  middle  size  ;  skin 
greenish  white,  but  soft  red,  marbled  with  a  deeper  red  next 
the  sun ;  flesh  white  and  melting,  juice  plentiful  and  highly 
flavored ;  ripe  in  August. 


142  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

EARLY  ORANGE,  Orange  Freestone,  Yellow  Rareripe,  Yellow 
Melocoton,  Golden  Rareripe,  Early  Yellow.  Fruit  under  a  me- 
dium size,  inclining  to  the  oval  shape,  apex  full,  with  a  small  tip ; 
skin  greenish  yellow ;  flesh  fine  and  yellow ;  juice  rich  and 
sweet,  but  not  plentiful ;  ripe  in  August  and  September.  There 
are  several  varieties  under  the  same  name,  some  of  which  are 
inferior  to  the  true  Orange  Peach. 

EARLY  ROYAL  GEORGE.  Red  Magdalen  of  Prince.  A  supe- 
rior variety,  of  medium  size  and  rather  globular  form;  skin 
yellow,  with  red  cheek ;  flesh  melting  and  delicious ;  in  August. 
There  are  several  varieties  cultivated  under  this  name,  differently 
described. 

EASTBURN'S  CHOICE.  Fruit  large,  nearly  round ;  skin  pale 
yellow,  with  a  red  blush ;  flesh  yellowish  white ;  juice  exceed- 
ingly pleasant  and  sprightly,  in  September  and  October.  The 
tree  is  represented  as  hardy,  luxuriant,  and  vigorous,  by  the 
Editor  of  HofFy's  Orchard  Companion,  of  Philadelphia,  from 
which  this  description  is  taken. 

EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA,  Serrated  Leaf,  New  Cut-Leaved 
Unique.  The  fruit  of  this  species  is  deeply  cleft,  one  half  of 
it  projecting  considerabty  beyond  the  other;  the  skin  is 
downy,  of  a  brownish  yellow  and  red  color;  flesh  melting; 
juice  sweet  and  delicious  ;  towards  the  end  of  August.  This 
sort  was  found  by  Mr.  Floy  in  New  Jersey,  1809,  and  all  the 
stones  of  this  fruit  are  said  to  produce  plants  with  jagged 
leaves. 

GEORGE  THE  FOURTH.  An  excellent  Peach,  of  medium  size 
and  globular  shape ;  of  pale  yellow  color  in  the  shade,  and  dark 
red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone,  from  which 
it  separates ;  a  fruit  of  very  superior  flavor  when  at  maturity, 
which  is  early  in  September.  It  originated  in  the  garden  of 
Mr.  Gill,  Broad  street,  New  York. 

GREEN  NUTMEG,  Early  Anne,  Avant  Blanche.  This  early 
variety  is  said  to  have  originated  in  Berkshire,  England.  The 
fruit  is  small ;  its  color  yellowish  green ;  its  pulp  melting, 
juicy,  of  very  pleasant  flavor,  and  ripens  in  July  and  August 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  143 

Murray's  Esirly  Anne  is  a  variety  raised  from  the  seed  of  this. 
It  is  esteemed  for  its  early  maturity. 

GROSSE  MIGNONNE,  Veloutee  de  Merlet,  Grimivood's  Royal 
George,  Large  French  Mignonne,  Vineuse,  according  to  Lind- 
ley ;  and  the  following  synonymes  are  added  by  Kendrick : 
Belle  Beaute,  Smooth-leaved  Royal  George,  Royal  Souverain, 
Pourpre  de  Normandie,  Royal  Kensington,  Early  Vineyard, 
Transparent,  and  Morris's  Red  Rareripe.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  delicious  varieties  in  cultivation.  Fruit  large, 
depressed,  hollow  at  the  summit,  with  a  deepish  suture ;  skin 
rather  downy,  or  rich  deep  red,  thickly  mottled  on  a  greenish 
ground ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  rayed  with  red  at  the  stone ;  melting, 
juicy,  and  of  a  rich  vinous  flavor  when  in  perfection,  which  is 
early  in  September. 

HEATH  FREESTONE,  KenricWs  Heath.  This  variety  was  first 
obtained  from  the  late  General  Heath,  of  Roxbury,  near  Boston. 
The  fruit  is  very  large,  oblong,  and  beautiful,  frequently  weigh- 
ing half  a  pound ;  color  pale  yellowish  green,  with  crimson  or 
violet  next  the  sun  ;  its  flesh  is  melting,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  and 
agreeably  acid  ;  ripens  in  September  and  October. 

HOFFMAN'S  POUND,  Morrison's  Pound,  Ho/man's  Favorite. 
This  fruit  is  by  some  called  the  Morrisania,  from  it  having 
been  first  obtained  by  Mr.  Floy  from  Governeur  Morris ;  but  it 
originated  with  Martin  Hoffman,  Esq.,  of  New  York.  The 
fruit  is  very  large,  skin  brownish  white  and  red ;  flesh  yellow, 
firm,  very  juicy  and  delicious,  parting  from  the  stone  ;  greatly 
esteemed  from  its  ripening  late  in  September  and  October. 

LATE  ADMIRABLE,  Royale,  Royal,  Sourdine,  Teton  de  Venus 
of  Prince  and  Downing.  Fruit  large,  roundish,  inclining  to 
oblong;  suture  deeply  impressed  along  one  side,  having  the 
flesh  swelling  boldly  and  equally  on  both  sides,  with  a  slight 
impression  on  the  summit ;  skin  downy,  of  pale  green  color, 
streaked  with  dull  tawny  red ;  flesh  white,  delicate,  melting,  and 
highly  flavored ;  a  magnificent  Peach,  ripening  in  September. 

MALTA,  Peche  Malte,  Belle  de  Paris,  Malte  de  Normandie, 
Italian  Peach.  Fruit  above  the  medium  size ;  color  pale'  yel- 


144  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

lowish  green,  marbled  with  purplish  red ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy, 
rich,  vinous,  and  of  superior  flavor ;  ripens  at  the  end  of  August. 

MADELEINE  DE  COURSON,  Madeleine  Rouge,  Rouge  Paysanne, 
Red  Magdalen.  Royal  George  and  New  Royal  Charlotte  of  some 
collections.  An  excellent  fruit,  of  large  size  ;  color  yellow  and 
red ;  ripens  at  the  end  of  August ;  flesh  firm,  white,  but  red  at 
the  stone  ;  sugary  and  rich. 

MONSTROUS  LEMON,  Largest  Lemon.  This  variety  was  first 
discovered  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Tiebout,  now  Union  Place ; 
the  fruit  is  of  the  largest  size,  and  in  the  gardens  of  two  persons 
in  New  York  has  weighed  seventeen  ounces,  as  stated  by  Mr. 
Prince,  who  says  that  the  tree  requires  a  sheltered  situation, 
and  that  the  fruit  is  late  in  ripening ;  October. 

MORRIS'S  RED  FREESTONE,  Red  Rareripe.  Grosse  Mignonne, 
and  Royal  Kensington  according  to  Prince.  Fruit  nearly  round, 
of  large  size,  apex  a  little  sunken ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  with 
red  cheek ;  flesh  delicious  and  melting ;  a  first-rate  variety ; 
ripe  towards  the  end  of  August. 

MORRIS'S  WHITE  FREESTONE,  White  Rareripe,  Luscious 
White  Rareripe,  Philadelphia  Freestone.  Lady  Ann  Stewart 
of  Downing  and  Prince.  Fruit  large,  and  inclining  to  the  oval 
form,  suture  even,  but  not  deep ;  apex  a  little  sunken ;  skin 
white  or  rather  yellowish ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  rich,  and  sweet ; 
ripe  in  September. 

NEIL'S  EARLY  PURPLE,  Early  Purple  of  Miller,  Johnson's 
Purple  Avant,  Padletfs  Early  Purple,  Veritable  Pourpree 
Hative,  Peche  du  Vin.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  Peaches, 
of  medium  size ;  skin  yellow,  but  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  fine 
deep  red  and  purplish  color ;  it  ripens  by  the  middle  of  August ; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich  vinous  flavor ;  an  excellent 
fruit. 

NEW  ROYAL  CHARLOTTE,  Queen  Charlotte,  New  Early  Pur- 
ple, Kew  Early  Purple.     A  delicious  Peach,  rather  above  me- 
dium size ;  skin  pale  greenish  white,  with  deep  red  next  the 
sun ;  flesh  greenish  white,  rich,  and  agreeable  ;  ripe  in  August. 
NOBLESSE,  Mellish's   Favorite.      Vanguard  of  Prince  and 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  145 

• 

Winter.  The  tree  is  of  a  vigorous  growth,  and  very  produc- 
tive ;  fruit  large,  somewhat  oval,  of  a  pale  red  color,  marbled 
with  different  shades ;  pulp  juicy,  rich,  and  melting  when  at 
maturity,  which  is  in  August  and  September. 

PRESIDENT.  This  variety  originated  at  Bedford,  on  Long 
Island.  It  is  a  rich,  melting,  juicy  fruit,  of  large  size,  round- 
ish, with  a  shallow  suture ;  skin  very  downy,  dull  red  next  the 
sun,  pale  yellowish  green  in  the  shade ;  the  surface  covered 
with  small  red  dots ;  a  first-rate  Peach ;  ripe  in  September. 

PRINCE'S  LATE  YELLOW  FREESTONE.  A  beautiful  fruit,  of  a 
greenish-yellow  color,  tinged  with  red ;  flesh  firm  and  rich. 
A  partially  ripe  specimen  of  this  variety  was  exhibited  by  Mr. 
Prince  in  the  Horticultural  room  of  the  American  Institute, 
October  24,  1843. 

RARERIPE  YELLOW,  Yellow  and  Red  Rareripe,  Red  Velvet, 
Large  Yellow  Nutmeg.  Marie  Antoinette  of  some.  This 
variety  is  large ;  skin  yellow  and  red ;  flesh  firm,  rich,  and  de- 
licious, in  August  and  September.  It  is  considered  one  of  the 
most  valuable  market  varieties. 

RED  CHEEK  MALACATUNE,  Hogg's  Melacoton,  Alberge  Incom- 
parable, Lady  Gallatin,  Probyn  Peach.  The  fruit  of  this 
variety  is  of  large  size  and  oval  form  ;  its  color  is  yellow,  with 
a  red  cheek  on  the  sunny  side  ;  the  flesh  is  also  yellow,  melt- 
ing, rich,  juicy,  and  luscious.  There  is  another  variety  of  this 
fruit,  which  originated  with  Mr.  Polls,  of  New  York,  said  to 
be  very  productive,  and  of  excellent  quality ;  ripens  in  Sep- 
tember. 

ROBINSON  CRUSOE,  Early  Robinson  Crusoe.  Fruit  largo, 
round,  and  handsome  ;  skin  pale  red,  marbled  with  dark  red ; 
flesh  juicy,  sweet,  and  delicious ;  ripe  in  September.  The 
stone  from  which  this  variety  was  raised  by  Dr.  Coxe,  of  Phila- 
delphia, was  brought  by  Lieutenant  Coxe  from  the  far-famed 
island  of  Alexander  Selkirk  or  Robinson  Crusoe. 

SMOCK  FREE,  Smoctts  Freestone.  An  esteemed  market  va- 
riety at  Middletown,  New  Jersey,  where  it  originated,  in  Mr. 
Smock's  orchard.  Some  specimens  of  the  fruit  have  measured 


146  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

twelve  inches  in  circumference.  It  is  of  oblong  shape,  skin 
pale  yellow  and  dark  red ;  flesh  juicy,  a  little  acid,  and  very 
palatable  ;  in  September  and  October. 

SWEET  WATER,  Early  Sweet  Water.     American  Nutmeg  of 
Prince.     This  variety  is  said  to  have  originated  at  Flushing ;  • 
its  form  is  round,  and  its  color  whitish  green,  with  a  red  blush 
at  maturity,  which  is  early  in  August.      The  flesh  is  very  ten 
der,  melting,  rich,  and  juicy. 

TETON  DE  VENUS.  Royale  of  some  collections.  There  are 
two  or  three  varieties  bearing  this  name  ;  the  fruit  of  the  besl 
variety  is  large,  globular,  of  a  pale  yellowish-green  color,  mar- 
bled with  red ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  a 
delicious  flavored  Peach  ;  ripe  in  September. 

VAN  ZANDT'S  SUPERB,  Waxen  Rareripe.  This  variety  origi- 
nated with  Mr.  Van  Zandt,  of  Flushing ;  its  form  is  oval ;  its 
skin  smooth,  somewhat  mottled,  and  of  a  beautiful  waxen  ap- 
pearance ;  flesh  melting,  and  of  excellent  flavor ;  in  August 
and  September. 

WALTER'S  EARLY.  Fruit  large ;  color  white  in  the  shade, 
and  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  red,  very  juicy  and  delicious. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  most  productive  and  early  Peaches 
cultivated  at  Middletown,  New  Jersey,  where  it  ripens  about 
the  middle  of  August. 

WASHINGTON  PEACH,  Boyce  Peach,  Washington  Freestone. 
Early  Rose  of  some.  A  first-rate  Peach ;  color  a  pale  yellow 
in  the  shade,  but  pale  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  very  juicy  and 
delicious ;  ripens  towards  the  end  of  August.  A  peculiar  trait 
in  this  Peach  is  its  rapid  growth ;  it  will,  while  ripening,  in 
about  ten  days  nearly  double  its  ordinary  size,  weighing  over 
half  a  pound. 

WHITE  BLOSSOM,  Willow  Peach,  Snow  Peach,  White  Blos- 
somed Incomparable.  This  variety  originated  on  Long  Island  ; 
the  fruit  is  white,  of  an  oval  form  and  handsome  appearance  ; 
the  flesh  is  also  white,  melting,  juicy,  and  pleasant ;  it  is  much 
used  for  preserves  when  not  over  ripe,  and  is  at  full  maturity 
in  September. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  147 

YELLOW  ADMIRABLE,  Abricotee,  Admirable  Jaune,  Peche 
6?  Orange,  Grosse  Jaune,  Peche  de  Burai,  Sandalie,  Hermaphro- 
dite, Apricot  Peach. 

MONSTROUS  PAVIE  OR  POMPONNE,  Gros  Melocoton,  Gros 
Persique,  Rouge  Pavie  Monstreux,  Pavie  Camu.  Fruit  very 
large,  roundish,  with  an  obtuse  nipple ;  skin  downy,  of  a  fine 
red  and  greenish-white  color;  flesh  white,  deep  red  at  the 
stone,  juicy,  and  vinous  ;  excellent  for  preserving ;  in  September 
and  October. 

NEW  YORK  WHITE  CLINGSTONE,  Williams^  New  York. 
New  Newington  of  some  catalogues.  Fruit  large,  round,  with 
a  pointed  apex ;  skin  white,  tinged  with  rose ;  flesh  yellow, 
melting  or  soft,  but  adhering  closely  to  the  stone ;  juice  very 
plentiful,  sweet,  luscious,  and  high  flavored ;  ripe  in  Sep- 
tember. 

OLDMIXON  CLINGSTONE.  Of  all  clingstone  Peaches  this 
is  considered  the  most  delicious ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with 
a  bright  red  cheek,  marbled ;  flesh  red  at  the  stone,  rich,  juicy, 
sweet,  and  high  flavored  ;  the  fruit  ripens  gradually  in  Septem- 
ber. This  variety  is  cultivated  in  Massachusetts  under  the 
above  name  ;  but  Mr.  Manning  says  that  he  has  cultivated  this 
fruit  with  the  Old  Newington  and  the  Catharine,  and  could 
never  perceive  any  difference  in  the  fruit  or  trees. 

OLD  NEWINGTON,  Newington.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is 
large,  rather  globular,  of  a  fine  bright  red  and  pale-yellow 
color,  marbled  with  dashes  and  streaks  of  a  deeper  color ;  the 
flesh  is  yellowish  white,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  also  juicy,  rich, 
sweet,  and  well  flavored  ;  the  tree  is  very  productive  ;  in  Sep- 
tember. 

ORANGE  CLING,  Round  Alberge.  A  beautiful  native  Peach, 
of  round  shape,  and  bright  yellow  or  orange  color;  flesh 
orange  color,  aromatic,  rich,  and  juicy.  The  tree  is  a  great 
bearer,  and  from  the  beauty  of  its  fruit,  which  ripens  in  Sep- 
tember, is  entitled  to  extensive  cultivation  for  the  market. 

PAVIE  MADELEINE,  Pavie  Blanc,  Melecoton,  Myrecoton, 
Merlicoton,  Persique  a  Gros-Fruit  Blanc.  The  fruit  of  this 


148  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

variety  is  of  medium  size,  somewhat  broadly  globular ;  skin 
pale  yellowish  white  and  marbled  red ;  flesh  yellowish  white 
to  the  stone ;  juice  sugary  and  of  an  agreeable  flavor ;  toward" 
the  end  of  August  and  September. 

PRINCE'S  CLIMAX.  Fruit  very  large,  oval ;  skin  yellow,  mot 
tied  with  crimson  ;  flesh  yellow,  and  of  rich  pineapple  flavor ; 
ripe  in  September,  and  good  in  October. 

SELBY'S  CLING.  Fruit  large,  highly  esteemed ;  skin  white 
and  red ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  of  peculiar  rich  flavor ;  ripe 
in  September  and  October. 

SMOCK'S  CLINGSTONE.  Fruit  very  large,  oblong ;  skin  yel- 
low and  red ;  flesh  juicy,  rich,  a  little  acid ;  it  ripens  in  Octo- 
ber at  Middletown,  New  Jersey,  and  is  considered  one  of  thf 
most  productive  and  profitable  late  market  fruits. 

TIPPE CANOE  PEACH,  Hero  of  Tippecanoe.  This  variety  ori- 
ginated with  George  Thomas  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  fruit  has 
been  much  admired  at  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  exhibi- 
tions ;  it  is  of  large  size,  of  a  beautiful  yellow  color,  with  a 
fine  red  blush ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  and  juicy,  possessing  an 
agreeable  acidity ;  it  ripens  late  in  September. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES. 

BALTIMORE  BEAUTY.  A  native  variety.  Fruit  rather  small, 
roundish  oval ;  skin  deep  orange,  with  a  rich  brilliant  red 
cheek ;  flesh  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone,  sweet,  and  very 
good.  Ripens  early  in  August. 

BERGEN'S  YELLOW.  A  native  of  Long  Island.  Fruit  large, 
often  measuring  nine  inches  in  circumference ;  skin  deep 
orange,  with  dark  red  cheek  ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  melting,  juicy, 
and  delicious.  Ripens  early  in  September. 

COLES'  EARLY  RED.  A  good  early  market  fruit  of  medium 
size ;  skin  pale  red,  mottled  with  darker  red ;  flesh  melting, 
juicy,  rich,  and  very  sprightly. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  149 

DRUID  HILL.  A  seedling  Peach,  raised  by  Lloyd  N.  Rogers, 
of  Druid  Hill,  near  Baltimore.  Fruit  very  large,  roundish ; 
skin  greenish  white,  clouded  with  red  ;  flesh  juicy,  melting, 
and  rich ;  towards  the  end  of  September. 

EARLY  YORK,  Large  Early  York.  Fruit  of  medium  size, 
roundish  ;  skin  pale  red,  dotted  and  mottled  with  dark  red ; 
flesh  greenish  white,  full  of  rich  sprightly  juice.  Ripens 
towards  the  end  of  August. 

EARLY  NEWINGTON  FREESTONE,  Newington  Peach.  A  large 
and  exceedingly  high-flavored  Peach ;  skin  pale  yellowish 
white,  dotted  and  mottled  with  a  rich  red ;  flesh  white,  but  red 
at  the  stone  ;  juicy  and  melting :  end  of  August. 

HAINES'  EARLY  RED.  A  popular  orchard  fruit  in  New  Jer- 
sey, of  medium  size ;  skin  pale  white,  nearly  covered  with 
bright  red ;  flesh  greenish  white,  very  juicy,  sweet,  and  melt- 
ing. Ripe  about  the  middle  of  August. 

LA  GRANGE.  A  late  Peach,  raised  by  Mr.  John  Hulse,  Bur- 
lington, New  Jersey.  Fruit  large,  oblong;  skin  greenish 
white,  tinged  with  red;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  and  delicious. 
Ripe  towards  the  end  of  September. 

OLDMIXON  FREESTONE,  Oldmixon  Clcarstone.  A  large  Ameri- 
can Peach,  slightly  oval ;  skin  pale  yellowish  white,  marbled 
with  deep  red  ;  flesh  white  and  tender,  with  a  rich  vinous  fla- 
vor :  early  in  September. 

POOL'S  LARGE  YELLOW,  Poors  Late  Yellow  Freestone.  A 
large  and  handsome  Pennsylvania  Peach  of  the  Melocoton 
family ;  skin  deep  yellow,  with  a  dark  red  cheek ;  flesh  juicy, 
and  of  excellent  flavor :  late  in  September. 

RARERIPE,  Late  Red,  Prince's  Red  Rareripe.  One  of  the 
finest  of  all  peaches.  Fruit  large  and  heavy,  roundish  oval ; 
skin  downy,  pale  yellow,  thickly  marbled  with  red  and  fawn- 
colored  specks ;  flesh  white,  but  deep  red  at  the  stone ;  very 
juicy,  melting,  and  of  an  unusually  rich  flavor.  Ripens  the 
second  and  third  week  in  September. 


150  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

PEAR.     POIRIER.     Pyrus. 

The  Peach  and  the  Pear-tree  have  still  ample  store, 
And  the  Plum,  most  inviting,  "  makes  urchins  adore." 
A  bountiful  feast  is  spread  over  the  land, 
For  great  is  the  Giver,  unsparing  His  hand. 

The  Pear-tree,  in  its  wild  state,  is  thorny,  with   upright 
branches,  tending  to  the  pyramidal  form,  in  which  it  differs 


tifrei'&r^ym 


- 


Beurr6  Clairgean. 


materially  from  the  Apple-tree.     The  twigs,  or  sprays,  hang 
down.     The  leaves  are  elliptical,  obtuse,  serrate.     The  flowers 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  151 

in  terminating,  villose  corymbs,  produced  from  wood  of  the 
preceding  year,  or  from  buds  gradually  formed  on  the  several 
years'  growth,  on  the  extremities  of  very  short  protruding 
shoots,  technically  called  spurs.  The  Pear-tree  is  found  in  a 
wild  state  in  England,  and  abundantly  in  France  and  Germany, 
as  well  as  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  not  excepting  Russia,  as 
far  north  as  latitude  51.  It  grows  in  almost  any  soil.  The 
cultivated  tree  differs  from  the  Apple,  not  only  in  having  a 
tendency  to  the  pyramidal  form,  but  also  in  being  more  apt 
to  send  out  tap-roots ;  in  being  as  a  seedling-plant  longer  in 
coming  into  bearing ;  and  when  on  its  own  root,  or  grafted  on 
a  wild  Pear-stock,  much  longer  lived.  In  a  dry  soil,  it  will 
exist  for  centuries,  and  still  retain  its  health,  productiveness, 
and  vigor.  The  Romans  had  thirty-six  varieties  in  Pliny's 
time.  There  are  now  several  hundreds  in  the  French  and 
British  nurseries,  and  a  still  larger  number  in  America. 

CHARACTERISTICS    OF    A    GOOD    PEAR. 

Dessert  Pears  are  characterized  by  a  sugary,  aromatic  juice, 
with  the  pulp  soft  and  sub-liquid,  or  melting,  as  in  the  Beurres, 
or  Butter  Pears,  or  of  a  firm  and  crisp  consistence,  or  breaking, 
as  in  the  Winter  Bergamots.  Kitchen-Pears  should  be  of  a 
large  size,  with  the  flesh  firm,  neither  breaking  nor  melting,  and 
rather  austere  than  sweet.  Perry  Pears  may  be  either  large  or 
small ;  but  the  more  austere  the  taste,  the  better  will  be  the 
liquor.  Excellent  perry  is  made  from  the  wild  Pear. 

PROPAGATION    OF    PEARS. 

Pear-trees  are  propagated  by  grafting  in  the  spring,  or  bud- 
ding late  in  the  summer,  and  also  by  seed  taken  from  the  best 
sorts,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  In  raising 
Pear-stocks,  the  wild  Pear  is  preferred  in  Europe,  as  being 
calculated  to  produce  plants  more  hardy  and  durable  than  the 
cultivated  sorts ;  and  for  dwarfing  and  precocity,  the  Quince  is 
preferred. 


152  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

The  Pear  is  a  much  handsomer  upright  growing  tree  than 
the  Apple ;  more  durable,  and  its  wood  hard  and  valuable  for 
the  turner  and  millwright;  but  its  blossoms,  being  white,  are 
less  showy  than  those  of  the  Apple. 

A  Pear-Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  trees 
are.  two  years  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  some  varieties  of 
trees  from  young  stocks  will  not  come  into  full  bearing  until 
ten  or  twelve  years  old,  they  will  bear  removing  with  care  at 
any  time  within  that  period.  They  may  be  planted  at  from 
twenty  to  thirty-five  feet  distance  from  each  other,  according 
to  the  nature  of  the  tree.  The  dwarf  varieties  may  be  planted 
in  the  kitchen-garden,  and  trained  either  as  espaliers  or  dwarf 
standards. 

Standard  Pear-trees  will  require  but  little  pruning  after  the 
heads  are  once  formed ;  in  doing  which,  the  branches  should 
be  permitted  to  extend  on  all  sides  freely.  Several  years  may 
elapse  before  any  cross-placed,  irregular,  or  crowded  branches 
require  pruning;  yet  there  are  some  kinds  whose  form  of 
growth  resembles  the  Apple,  which  will  need  frequent  prun- 
ing. 

IMPROVEMENT    OF   VARIETIES. 

"  That  some  of  the  fine  old  varieties  of  the  Pear  have 
deteriorated  in .  some  parts  of  the  country,  is  unquestionable ; 
this  is  ascribed  to  various  causes ;  first,  that  the  varieties  have 
run  out,  as  it  is  termed ;  second,  to  the  use  of  diseased  stocks, 
or  scions  from  diseased,  or  aged,  or  unthrifty  trees,  or  both ; 
third,  to  the  deleterious  influence  of  the  salt  air,  near  the  sea- 
board ;  fourth,  to  the  want  of  proper  attention  to  soil  and  cul- 
ture. We  cannot  subscribe  to  the  soundness  of  the  reason 
first  assigned ;  there  are  too  many  instances  of  varieties  of  fruit 
whose  origin  is  so  remote  that  it  cannot  be  traced,  still  con- 
tinuing in  full  vigor ;  and  the  kinds  which  have  deteriorated  in 
some  sections  of  the  country  still  maintain  their  celebrity  in 
the  interior,  and  more  especially  in  the  virgin  soil  of  the  West. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  153 

Which  of  the  other  causes  assigned  has  tended  to  deteriorate 
the  fine  kinds  alluded  to,  we  will  not  undertake  to  determine  ; 
one  or  more  of  them  may  have  had  their  influence,  but  we 
think  that  proper  attention  to  propagation,  soil,  and  culture, 
may  in  general,  if  not  in  every  instance,  restore  the  valuable 
old  varieties  to  their  pristine  excellence ;  and  in  this  vicinity 
there  is  decisive  evidence  of  the  improvement  of  that  superior 
old  variety,  the  White  Doyenne,  Saint  Michael,  or  Yirgalieu."' 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS. 

SUMMER   FRUIT. 

AH  !  MON  DIEU.  A  beautiful  Pear,  introduced  by  J.  B. 
Mantel,  of  Bloomingdale,  New  York.  Size  medium ;  form 
handsome ;  color  rich  yellow  with  bright  red  cheek ;  flesh 
juicy ;  flavor  sweet  and  perfumed.  Tree  vigorous  and  produc- 
tive, the  fruit  growing  in  clusters  of  four  or  five  together. 

AMIRE  JOANNET,  Early  Sugar.  This  fruit  is  described  by 
Mr.  Manning  as  small,  of  oblong  form  ;  light  yellow  skin,  with 
a  small  portion  of  red ;  flesh  white,  and  when  not  overripe 
juicy  and  good.  It  ripens  in  July,  about  ten  days  before  the 
Petit  Muscat,  to  which  it  is  superior  in  flavor. 

BELLE  DE  BRUXELLES,  Beauty  of  Brussels,  Cours  Complet. 
A  large  early  Pear  of  pyramidal  form ;  skin  a  beautiful  clear 
yellow,  with  red  cheek ;  flesh  white,  fine,  and  of  an  agreeable 
flavor ;  ripe  early  in  August. 

BEURR&  D'AMANLIS.  A  fine  early  Pear,  imported  from 
France  by  J.  B.  Mantel,  of  Bloomingdale,  New  York.  Size 
large ;  form  large-bellied ;  color  green,  changing  to  yellow, 
with  a  fine  blush  when  fully  ripe,  and  russet  spots ;  flesh  melt- 
ing, juicy,  sweet,  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  August  and  September. 
Tree  vigorous  and  productive. 

BLOODGOOD  PEAR,  Early  Beurre.  Fruit  large ;  form  nearly 
oval ;  skin  a  dull  yellow,  covered  with  dark  russet  spots  ;  flesh 

7* 


1 54  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

tender,  melting,  and  pleasant.  Mr.  Manning  says  :  "  It  comes 
early  into  bearing  and  produces  abundant  crops  every  year  in 
August." 

CRAWFORD,  Early  Crawford.  A  fine  early  Scotch  Pear,  of 
medium  size,  round  at  the  eye,  diminishing  at  the  stem ;  the 
skin  is  entirely  of  a  light  yellow ;  the  flesh  juicy,  tender,  and 
good.  Eipens  its  fruit  in  August. 


Theodore  Van  Mona. 

DEARBORN'S  SEEDLING.  This  variety  originated  in  the  gar- 
den of  the  Hon.  H.  A.  S.  Dearborn,  of  Roxbury.  The  tree  is 
of  vigorous  growth;  fruit  of  medium  size,  rounded  at  the 
crown,  and  regularly  diminishes  in  a  parabolic  manner  to  the 
stalk ;  the  skin  is  smooth,  thin,  green,  with  russet  spots  ;  at 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  155 

maturity  it  turns  to  a  delicate  yellow ;  flesh  very  melting,  and 
of  the  finest  flavor.  Ripens  in  August. 

EARLY  ROUSSELET,  Rousselet  Hatif,  Early  Catharine.  This 
is  a  small  Pear  with  a  long  curved  neck ;  skin  yellow,  with 
brownish  russet  ;  flesh  very  fine,  rich,  and  high-flavored ;  in 
August  and  September.  The  tree  yields  immense  crops. 

HONEY  PEAR,  American  Honey.  This  Pear  in  size  and 
shape  resembles  the  Seckel ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with  a  large 
portion  of  dull  red ;  the  flesh  sweet,  juicy,  and  good. 

JARGONELLE,  ENGLISH,  Beau  Present,  Saint  Sampson, 
Grosse  Cuisse,  Madame  Saint  Lambert,  Poire  des  Tables  des 
Princes.  Fruit  rather  large,  oblong,  of  a  pale  green  color,  a 
little  marked  with  red ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  with  a  slightly 
acid,  rich,  and  agreeable  flavor.  It  ripens  early  in  August,  is 
one  of  the  most  productive  of  all  Pears,  and  the  very  best  in 
its  season. 

JULIENNE  OF  COXE,  L'Archeduc  d'Ete,  Summer  Beurre, 
Summer  Doyenne,  Summer  St.  Michael,  of  Boston.  Blood- 
good  Pear  of  some  collections.  Fruit  medium  size,  smooth, 
bright  yellow  at  maturity,  with  a  faint  blush  next  the  sun ;  form 
rather  ovate,  tapering  towards  the  stalk ;  flesh  perfectly  melting, 
rich,  and  juicy.  The  tree  bears  young,  and  most  profusely,  and 
matures  its  fruit  in  August  and  September. 

MADELEINE,  Magdalene,  Citron  des  Carmes,  Early  Chaumon- 
telle.  This  Pear  is  of  medium  size,  pale  yellow,  with  an  occa- 
sional blush  next  the  sun ;  flesh  white,  melting,  perfumed.  A 
fine  early  fruit,  ripening  in  July  and  August. 

ROUSSELET  DE  RHEIMS,  Music  or  Spice  Pear.  Fruit  small, 
pyramidal,  greenish  yellow  at  maturity,  but  brown  red  next  the 
sun,  with  russety  spots ;  flesh  half  beurre,  fine,  very  perfumed. 
Good  to  put  in  brandy,  and  to  dry ;  in  August  and  Septem- 
ber 

SABINE  D'!§TE,  Bellissime  d1  Amour,  Epargne  of  the  French. 
English  Red  Cheek.  This  Pear  is  of  pyramidal  form,  terminat- 
ing in  a  round  blunt  point  at  the  stalk;  color  yellow,  but  fine 
scarlet  next  the  sun ;  the  whole  surface  smooth,  regular,  and 


156  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

polished ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  and  highly  perfumed ;  the 
tree  is  an  abundant  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  August. 

STEVENS'S  GENESEE.  Its  color  is  mellow  green,  with  russet 
blotches  ;  its  flesh  is  represented  as  white,  juicy,  and  melting ; 
flavor  sprightly,  rich,  and  very  delicious.  Time  of  ripening, 
towards  the  last  of  August. 

SKINLESS  PEAR,  Poire  sans  Peau,  Fleure  de  Guignes.  A 
small  oblong  Pear;  the  skin,  which  is  very  smooth  and  thin,  is 
pale  green,  marbled  with  red  and  yellow ;  flesh  crisp,  sweet, 
and  of  pleasant  flavor.  The  tree  is  very  prolific,  ripening  its 
fruit  in  August. 

SUMMER  FRANC  REAL,  Franc  Real  &£&,  Fondante,  France 
Cannel,  Gros  Micet  d'Et'e,  Milan  Blanc,  Prebles  Beurre.  Fruit 
above  medium  size ;  shape  oblong,  thickest  about  one-third 
from  the  eye ;  skin  yellowish  green ;  flesh  melting,  rich,  and 
excellent ;  ripe  early  in  September. 

SUMMER  MELTING,  Summer  Beurre,  Fondante  d'Ete.  An 
excellent  summer  Pear  of  pyriform  shape  ;  color  yellow,  tinged 
with  brownish  red ;  flesh  soft,  melting,  and  sweet.  The  tree 
bears  young,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  August. 

SUMMER  ROSE,  Thorny  Rose,  Epine  Rose,  Poire  de  Rose, 
Rosenbirne  Kraft.  A  Pear  of  medium  size,  in  form  resembling 
an  Apple ;  the  skin  is  dull  yellow,  spotted  with  russet  and 
marbled  with  red ;  a  very  productive  variety,  ripening  its  fruit 
early  in  August. 

WILLIAMS'S  BONCHRETIEN,  Bartlett,  Williams^s  Early,  Au- 
tumn Superb  of  Prince.  The  fruit  is  large,  oblong ;  the  stalk 
thick  and  fleshy,  an  inch  long ;  the  color  at  maturity  yellow, 
tinged  with  red ;  flesh  whitish,  very  melting,  and  delicate  ; 
juice  perfumed,  sweet,  and  abundant.  Tree  very  productive, 
and  fruit  ripe  early  in  September. 

AUTUMN  FRUIT. 

ANDREWS,  Amory,  Gibson.  Fruit  oblong;  skin  yellowish 
green,  with  a  dull  red  cheek  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  high-fla- 
vored. Mr.  Manning  represents  it  as  "  a  very  valuable  pear, 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


157 


producing  its  fruit  early  and  abundantly."     Eipe  in  September 
and  October. 

AUTUMN  BERGAMOT,  Common  Bergamot,  YorJc  jBergamot, 
Bergamotte  cFAutomne,  Andrews.  Fruit  globular,  depressed; 
skin  rough,  yellowish  green,  and  dull  brown,  with  greyish 
spots ;  flesh  pale,  melting,  juicy,  sugary,  and  perfumed ;  ripe  in 
September  and  October.  This  variety  has  been  cultivated  in 


Doyenne  Kobin. 

England  from  the  time  of  Julius  Cassar,  and  is  still  considered 
by  many  a  first-rate  Pear  in  its  season. 

AUTUMN  SUPERB.  This  is  a  large  Pear,  full  and  round  at  the 
eye,  diminishing  to  a  point  at  the  stem;  the  skin  is  yellow, 
mixed  with  dull  red ;  the  flesh  melting  and  good.  Mr.  Man- 
ning says  it  bears  young,  and  that  the  fruit  ripens  in  October. 


158  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

BELLE  ET  BONNE,  Belle  de  Flanders,  Scheme  und  Gute, 
Gracieust.  Fruit  very  large,  globular,  depressed;  the  stalk 
long,  skin  greenish  yellow,  but  next  the  sun  yellow,  with  spots 
of  russet ;  flesh  white,  sweet,  exceeding  rich,  and  agreeably  per- 
fumed. The  tree  is  very  productive,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in 
September.  This  variety  has  been  cultivated  under  the  erro- 
neous names  of  Charles  d'Autriche,  Belle  de  Bruxelles,  and 
Bergamotte  Crassane,  which  are  distinct  fruits. 

BELLE  LUCRATIVE,  Fondante  d'Automne.  A  beautiful  Fle- 
mish Pear ;  middle-sized,  roundish,  tapering  at  the  stalk ;  skin 
yellow,  slightly  russeted,  and  tinged  with  pale  red ;  flesh  melt- 
ing, sweet,  and  juicy,  with  a  slight  musky  perfume ;  early  in 
October. 

BEURRE  Bosc,  Calebasse  Bosc.  Fruit  large  and  very  long ; 
terminated  with  a  crown,  near  three  inches  in  diameter ;  some- 
what calabash-formed ;  skin  grey  fawn-color,  but  russety-yellow 
at  maturity ;  flesh  white,  melting,  highly  flavored,  and  delicious. 
It  ripens  in  October. 

BLEECKER'S  MEADOW,  Large  Seckel  of  Prince.  Meadow  Pear 
of  Winter  &  Co.  A  native  fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish  form, 
and  of  a  yellow  color,  tinged  with  dull  red ;  the  flesh  melting, 
juicy,  sweet,  musky,  and  of  delicious  flavor.  Ripe  in  October. 
A  prolific  bearer. 

BROWN  BEURRE,  Beurre  Rouge,  Beurre  d*  Or,  Beurre  Doree, 
Beurre  du  Roi,  Beurre  d'Amboise,  Isambert,  Red  Beurre,  Gold- 
en Beurre,  Pore  d'Amboise.  This  was  formerly  considered 
the  best  of  all  Pears  in  its  season.  Fruit  rather  large,  of  green- 
ish yellow  and  dusky  red  color,  covered  with  thin  russet ; 
flesh  melting,  buttery,  rich,  and  excellent ;  at  perfection  in  Oc- 
tober and  November. 

CAPIUMONT,  Beurre  de  Capiumont,  Calebasse  Vass.  This 
variety  is  much  esteemed  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston ;  fruit  of 
medium  size  ;  skin  yellow,  tinged  with  fine  red  or  cinnamon  ; 
flesh  yellowish,  melting,  very  rich,  and  high-flavored ;  in  Sep- 
tember and  October. 

CAPSHEAF.     A  medium-sized    Pear,  much  cultivated  near 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


159 


Providence,  Rhode  Island  ;  the  shape  is  rather  globular  ;  skin 
a  light  cinnamon  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  and  juicy.  The 
tree  bears  well,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  October. 

CHARLES  D'AUTRICHE,  Gracieuse,  Charles  of  Austria.  A 
fine  and  beautiful  fruit,  large,  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and 
three  inches  broad ;  color  greenish  yellow  with  brown  spots, 
and  partially  russeted ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  and  deli 
cious ;  ripe  in  October  and  good  in  November. 


Beurr6  Nantais. 

CUMBERLAND.  A  native  fruit  from  Cumberland,  Rhode 
Island,  of  large  size  and  oblong  shape ;  skin  orange  color,  with 
bright  red  cheek;  the  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  good;  ripe  in 
October.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  and  bears  abun- 
dantly. 


Ik 

160  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

GUSHING.  A  native  fruit  from  Hingham,  Massachusetts  ;  of 
medium  size  and  oblong  shape ;  skin,  when  ripe,  smooth,  of  a 
light  yellow,  mottled  with  dull  red  on  one  side ;  flesh  white, 
melting,  sprightly,  and  good.  It  comes  early  into  bearing,  and 
produces  plenty  of  fruit  in  September  and  October. 

DELICES  D'ARDENPONT,  Delices  d? Hardenpont  de  Toulouse. 
Beurre  d>Ardenpont  of  some.  Fruit  above  medium  size  ;  ob- 
long, pyramidal ;  skin  yellow  at  maturity,  and  partially  covered 
with  a  thin  cinnamon-colored  russet;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
nearly  melting ;  juice  pleasant,  sweet,  and  abundant ;  in  Octo- 
ber and  November.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer. 

Dix.  A  native  variety  originating  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Dix, 
in  Boston ;  fruit  large,  oblong  ;  skin,  when  ripe,  yellow,  with  a 
blush  of  red ;  flesh  melting,  juicy  and  rich ;  in  October  and 
November. 

DOYENNE  SANTELETE.  A  new,  fine,  handsome  Flemish  Pear ; 
fruit  above  the  middle  size,  pyramidally  oblong;  skin  pale 
green,  speckled  with  grey  russet ;  flesh  white,  a  little  gritty, 
but  tender;  juice  saccharine,  with  a  slight  musky  perfume. 
The  tree  is  hardy,  and  ripens  its  fruit  early  in  October. 

DUCHESS  OF  ANGOULEME,  Duchesse  d'AngouUme.  A  Pear  of 
first-rate  excellence.  Form  roundish  oblong,  tapering  towards 
the  stalk ;  skin  dull  yellow,  with  broad  russet  patches ;  flesh 
white,  rich,  melting,  very  juicy,  and  high-flavored,  with  a  most 
agreeable  perfume.  Specimens  of  this  fruit  have  been  shown  in 
England,  weighing  twenty-two  ounces ;  at  perfection  in  Octo- 
ber and  November. 

FLEMISH  BEAUTY,  La  Belle  de  Flanders.  Imperatrice  de  la 
France.  Brilliant,  Bosch^  Bouche  Nouvelle.  A  fine  Flemish 
Pear  in  great  repute ;  it  is  of  large  size,  obovate,  obtuse  at  the 
stalk  ;  greenish-yellow  russet,  tinged  with  crimson ;  flesh  rather 
firm,  yellowish  white,  sweet,  rich,  and  excellent ;  it  ripens  in 
October. 

FREDERICK  OF  WURTEMBURG,  Roi  de  Wurtemburg,  Capiu- 
mont  of  some  collections.  A  large  and  splendid  Pear,  of  pyra- 
midal form  and  fine  yellow  color,  covered  with  beautiful  crirn- 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


161 
The 


son  on  one  side ;  flesh  melting  and  of  delicious  flavor, 
tree  bears  while  young,  and  very  abundantly. 

FULTON.  A  fine  Pear  of  medium  size,  raised  from  seed  by 
Mr.  Fulton,  of  Topsham,  Maine ;  shape  roundish  turbinate ;  skin 
dark  yellow ;  russeted ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  of  delicious 
flavor ;  ripe  in  September,  and  lasts  a  month.  The  tree  is  a 
great  and  constant  bearer,  and  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 


Comte  de  Flander. 

GANSEL'S  BERGAMOT,  Brocds  Bergamot,  Ives's  Bergamot, 
Bonne  Rouge.  Fruit  varying  from  middle  size  to  large ;  ovate 
flattened ;  color  dull  green,  slightly  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh 
white,  melting,  sweet,  rich  and  high-flavored.  A  delicious 
Pear ;  ripe  in  October,  and  good  till  Christmas. 


162  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

GOLDEN  BEURR&  OF  BILBOA.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  oblong , 
color  a  bright  golden  yellow,  with,  patches  of  russet ;  melting 
and  of  fine  flavor.  A  beautiful  Pear-tree,  a  great  bearer,  and 
worthy  of  cultivation ;  ripe  in  October. 

GORE'S  HEATHCOT.  A  native  variety,  highly  esteemed  in 
Massachusetts.  Fruit  of  medium  size ;  form  long ;  skin  of  a 
uniformly  light  yellow  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  high  flavored. 
The  growth  of  the  tree  is  handsome  and  vigorous,  producing 
abundant  crops  in  September  and  October. 

GREEN  SYLVANGE,  SylvancJie  Vert,  Bergamotte  Sylvange. 
A  most  superior  Pear,  of  medium  size,  skin  rough  and  green, 
speckled  with  grey  or  black.  The  flesh  is  greenish  near  the 
skin,  white  in  the  centre,  soft,  saccharine  and  juicy ;  fruit  in 
perfection  from  October  to  Christmas.  The  tree  is  a  great 
bearer,  and  specimens  of  the  fruit  have  been  known  to  weigh 
thirteen  ounces. 

HACON'S  INCOMPARABLE.  Norfolk  Seedling,  DownJiam 
Seedling  of  Winter  &  Co.  Fruit  middle-sized,  of  pale  yellow 
color,  mixed  with  green,  partially  covered  with  orange  russet ; 
flesh  yellowish  white,  slightly  gritty,  but  very  tender,  juicy, 
sweet  and  rich ;  and  possessing  a  high  musky  and  perfumed 
flavor.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  excellent. 
Ripens  in  November  and  December. 

HARVARD,  UEpergne,  Boston  Eparne  This  variety  is 
highly  prized  in  the  Boston  markets  ;  fruit  above  medium  size ; 
oblong,  swollen  at  the  crown  ;  skin  russety  yellow,  tinged  with 
red ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  and  melting.  Ripens  in  September  and 
October. 

HENRY  THE  FOURTH,  Henri  Quatre.  Fruit  of  medium  size ; 
oblong,  skin  a  dull  yellow,  mixed  with  brown  and  green  ;  flesh 
yellow,  rather  gritty,  juicy,  and  melting,  with  a  peculiar  rich 
flavor ;  ripe  in  September  and  October. 

LONG  GREEN  OF  AUTUMN,  Verte  Longue,  Mouthwater.  Mr. 
Manning  says  that  this  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  old  varieties ; 
its  form  is  very  long ;  skin  at  maturity  a  light  green  ;  flesh 
white,  melting,  and  rich-flavored.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  163 

growth,  bears  well,  and  the  fruit  is  ripe  in  September  and 
October. 

MARIE  LOUISE,  Marie  Chretienne.  Fruit  oblong,  tapering 
towards  both  ends  ;  size  varying  from  medium  to  large  ;  skin 
nearly  smooth,  yellowish  green,  and  cinnamon-colored  russet ; 
flesh  white,  melting,  juicy  and  rich.  It  ripens  in  October  and 
November,  and  is  an  excellent  fruit  in  its  season. 

MOOR  FOWL  EGG.  Fruit  rather  small,  globular,  ovate, 
swollen  in  the  middle ;  skin  orange-brown  next  the  sun,  with 
spots  of  russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white ;  a  little  gritty,  but  ten- 
der and  mellow  ;  juice  saccharine,  a  little  perfumed.  This  is  a 
hardy  Scotch  variety ;  ripe  in  September,  and  good  in  October. 

NAPOLEON,  Medaille,  Sauvageon  Liart.  JRoi  de  Rome,  and 
Wurtemburg  of  Prince.  Fruit  large,  form  of  the  Colmar ;  skin 
smooth  ;  color  bright  green,  but  at  maturity  pale  green  ;  flesh 
very  melting,  with  an  unusual  abundance  of  rich  agreeable 
juice.  At  perfection  in  October  and  November. 

PRINCESS  OF  ORANGE,  Princesse  d>  Orange,  Princesse  Con- 
quette.  The  fruit  is  roundish  ;  the  skin  bright  reddish-orange 
russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  sugary  and  rich,  in  some  seasons 
perfectly  melting,  but  occasionally  a  little  gritty.  A  beautiful 
Pear,  and  of  good  quality ;  in  October. 

SECKEL,  New  York  Red  Cheek,  Red  Cheek  Seckel,  Sycle. 
An  excellent  native  fruit,  in  size  rather  small ;  color  varying 
from  yellowish  to  brownish  russet,  but  bright  red  next  the  sun ; 
flesh  melting,  spicy,  and  of  a  most  extraordinarily  rich  flavor. 
This  fruit  grows  in  clusters,  in  great  abundance,  and  is  at  per- 
fection in  September  and  October. 

SWAN'S  EGG,  Moor  Fowl  Egg  of  Boston.  Fruit  small,  of  an 
oval;  turbinate  figure ;  color  yellowish  green,  and  dull  russety 
brown ;  flesh  tender  and  melting,  with  a  rich,  saccharine,  musky 
flavor.  An  excellent  fruit;  ripe  in  October.  The  tree  is 
remarkably  tall,  upright,  vigorous,  and  productive. 

URBANISTE,  Beurre  du  Roi.  The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  pyra- 
midally ovate  ;  skin  pale  green,  inclining  to  yellow,  with  green 
streaks ;  flesh  white,  but  reddish  yellow  next  the  core ;  it  is 


164  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

quite  melting,  juicy,  and  very  sweet,  with  a  little  perfuraB  ;  it 
ripens  from  the  middle  of  September  to  November. 

WASHINGTON.  A  native  fruit  from  New  Jersey*,  of  medium 
size  and  oval  form ;  the  skin  is  light  yellow,  covered  with  small 
brown  spots,  with  a  tinge  of  red ;  the  flesh  melting  and  of  ex- 


Des  Nonnes. 

cellent  flavor.     The  tree  bears  well,  and  is  worthy  of  general 
cultivation ;  fruit  ripens  in  September. 

WHITE  DOYENNE,  Doyenne  Blanc,  Beurre  Blanc,  Bonne  ente, 
St.  Michael,  Carlisle,  Citron  de  Septembre,  Kaiserbirne,  Poire 
a  courte  queue,  Poire  de  Limon,  Poire  de  Seigneur,  Poire  Mon- 
sieur, Valencia,  White  Beurre,  Virgalieu  of  some  collections. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  165 

Fruit  pretty  large  ;  roundish  oblong ;  skin  pale  citron  yellow, 
with  cinnamon-russet,  speckled ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  very  buttery 
and  delicious;  ripe  in  September  and  October.  An  old  and 
once  celebrated  variety,  still  admired  by  many,  although  exclud- 
ed from  some  nurseries  or  cultivated  under  new  names. 

WILKINSON.  A  native  Pear  from  Cumberland,  R.  I.  The 
tree  bears  young,  and  is  very  fruitful ;  size  above  medium ;  form 
oblong ;  skin  yellow,  with  a  brownish  blush  near  the  sun ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  and  melting.  At  perfection  in  October  and  No- 
vember. 

WINTER    FRUIT. 

BEURRE  D'AREMBERG,  Beurre  d'Arembert,  Due  cCAremberg, 
Poire  cFAremberg,  Beurre  Deschamps,  Beurre  des  Orphelins  of 
Deschamps,  Colmar  Deschamps.  The  English  and  French 
writers  speak  of  this  Pear  as  one  of  the  best  in  cultivation. 
The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  comes  early  into  cultivation,  and 
the  fruit  will  keep  till  March.  Fruit  large,  turbinate ;  skin  of 
a  delicate  pale  green,  dotted  with  russet,  which  becomes  of  a 
deep  yellow  at  maturity ;  flesh  whitish,  fine,  very  juicy,  per- 
fectly melting,  and  very  extraordinarily  rich,  sweet,  high- 
flavored,  and  excellent. 

BEURRE  DIEL,  DiePs  Butterbirne,  Dorothee  Royale,  Beurre  de 
Yelie,  Beurre  Royale,  Poire  de  Melon.  Beurre  Incomparable 
of  some.  This  ranks  amongst  the  best  of  Pears.  The  tree  is 
of  vigorous  growth ;  fruit,  when  in  perfection,  four  inches  long 
and  three  inches  broad ;  the  skin  at  maturity  is  bright  orange, 
with  reddish  russet ;  flesh  clear  white,  melting,  juicy,  and  of  a 
delicious  aromatic  flavor ;  from  November  to  January. 

BEURRE  RANCE,  Beurre  Epine,  Hardenpont  de  Printemps. 
This  is  said  to  be  a  first-rate  Pear.  The  tree  is  vigorous,  and 
a  good  bearer;  fruit  middle-sized,  oblong;  skin  deep  green, 
with  russety  specks ;  flesh  green,  melting,  having  a  rich  deli- 
cious flavor,  with  very  -little  acid.  It  shrivels  in  ripening,  but 
will  keep  till  April. 

BEZY  YAET,  Bezy  de  Saint  Vaast.     A  most  excellent  Pear, 


166  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

somewhat  the  shape  of  the  Swan's  Egg,  but  larger;  skin  dull 
green,  covered  with  russety  spots;  flesh  yellowish;  perfectly 
melting,  sweet,  and  agreeably  perfumed;  at  perfection  in 
November  and  December. 

CATILLAC.  Fruit  very  large,  rather  turbinate ;  pale  yellow, 
stained  with  red ;  flesh  firm  and  breaking ;  its  flavor  astringent ; 
an  excellent  baking  Pear ;  from  November  to  April.  Speci- 
mens of  this  variety  have  been  known  to  weigh  upwards  of  two 
pounds. 

CHAUMONTEL,  Bezy  de  Chaumontelle,  Poire  de  Chaumontelle, 
Beurre  d'Hiver.  This  noble  old  variety  is  a  fruit  varying  in 
size  from  large  to  very  large ;  its  color  at  maturity  yellow, 
tinged  with  brownish  red  next  the  sun:  its  form  variable; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  musky,  excellent ;  in  season  from 
November  to  February. 

COLMAR,  Colmar  Souverain,  Poire  Manne,  Bergamotte  Tar- 
dive,  Incomparable.  This  fruit  is  rather  large ;  skin  smooth, 
of  a  green  color,  changing  to  a  yellow  at  maturity ;  form  pyra- 
midal ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  saccharine,  and  of  excellent  flavor. 
The  fruit  is  in  perfection  from  November  to  February. 

COLUMBIA,  Columbian  Virgalieu.  A  large  native  Pear  of 
oblong  or  pyramid  form,  and  fine  yellow  color,  tinged  with 
red ;  flesh  rich,  firm,  juicy,  and  excellent ;  from  November  to 
January.  Tree  productive  and  of  very  handsome  form. 

EASTER  BEURRE,  Bergamotte  de  la  Pentecote,  Beurre  d'ffiver 
de  Bruxelles,  Doyenne  d'Hiver,  de  Bruxelles,  Bezi  Chaumon- 
telle Tres  Gros.  Of  all  the  late-keeping  Pears  this  is  considered 
the  best  (for  England).  Fruit  large,  roundish,  oblong ;  color 
green,  but  yellow  at  maturity,  with  specks  of  russet  brown ; 
flesh  yellowish-white,  perfectly  buttery  and  melting,  also  ex- 
tremely high-flavored ;  it  is  eatable  in  November,  and  will  keep 
till  May ;  it  is  a  most  profuse  bearer,  on  a  quince  stock. 

ECHASSERY,  Bezy  de  Chassery,  Bezy  de  Landry,  Poire  d'CEuf, 
Ambrette,  Walnut,  Tilton  of  New  Jersey.  Fruit  middle  size, 
of  a  roundish  turbinate  figure,  something  like  a  Citron,  or  the 
Arabrette;  skin  smooth,  greenish-yellow,  with  grey  specks; 


FRUIT-GARDE  NIN  G.  167 

flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  delicious  ;  from  December  to 
March. 

GLOUT  MORCEATJ,  Gloux  Morceaux,  Beurre  cT Aremberg,  Roi 
de  Wurtemburg,  Gloria,  Colmar  d'Hiver  of  Prince,  and  Beurre 
de  Hardenpont  of  Downing.  A  very  large  Belgic  variety,  of 
great  excellence ;  fruit  of  ovalish  form,  pale  green  color  inclin- 
ing to  yellow,  with  ninety  specks  -and  blotches ;  flesh  whitish, 
firm,  very  juicy,  and  excellent ;  in  perfection  from  November  to 
March. 

LEWIS.  This  variety  originated  on  the  farm  of  Mr.  I.  Lewis, 
of  Roxbury,  Mass.  The  size  is  medium;  form  somewhat 
globular ;  skin,  when  ripe,  a  greenish  yellow ;  the  flesh  is  white. 
Very  melting,  juicy,  and  excellent ;  from  November  to  March, 
The  tree  grows  quick,  and  bears  abundance  of  fruit. 

LOUISE  BONNE  DE  JERSEY,  Louise  Bonne  d1  Avranches.  A 
large  Pear ;  oblong ;  a  good  substitute  for  the  old  St.  Germain  ; 
skin  yellowish  green,  sometimes  tinged  with  red ;  flesh  extremely 
tender,  and  full  of  an  excellent  saccharine,  well  flavored  juice. 
A  first-rate  fruit,  from  October  till  after  Christmas. 

NEWTOWN  YERGALIEU.  A  large  Pear,  of  a  yellow  color, 
with  a  very  short  stalk ;  the  tree  grows  very  crooked  and  of  an 
irregular  form,  bending  by  the  weight  of  its  fruit,  which  is 
excellent  to  preserve,  or  for  baking;  from  November  to 
January.  Its  productiveness  renders  it  desirable  in  an  orchard. 

PASSE  COLMAR,  Fondante  de  Panisel,  Passe  Colmar  Gris  dit 
Precet,  Poire  Precel,  Passe  Colmar,  Epineux,  Beurre  Colmar 
Gris  dit  Precel,  Beurre  d*Argenson,  Present  de  Malines,  Colmar 
Souverain,  Chapman's.  A  most  valuable  Pear,  of  medium 
size,  conical,  flattened  next  the  eye ;  skin  at  maturity  yellowish, 
sprinkled  with  russet,  a  tinge  of  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  yellow- 
ish, melting,  rich,  and  excellent.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer, 
and  the  fruit  is  in  perfection  from  November  to  February. 

POUND  PEAR,  Black  Pear  of  Worcester,  Parkinson's  Warden, 
Grande  Monarque,  Livre,  Groote  Mogul,  Gros  ftateau  Gris, 
Love  Pear.  Winter  Bell  of  Downing.  Fruit  very  large,  of  a 
roundish  turbinate  figure ;  skin  rough,  covered  with  dull  russet ; 


168  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

flesh  hard  and  coarse,  but  excellent  when  baked  or  stewed  in 
winter.  Grafted  on  a  Pear-stock,  the  tree  bears  so  abundantly 
as  to  bend  like  a  weeping  willow.  A  specimen  of  this  variety 
was  exhibited  at  the  sixteenth  annual  fair  of  the  American 
Institute,  October,  1843,  weighing  33  oz. 

PRINCE'S  ST.  GERMAIN.  Fruit  about  medium  size;  form 
obovate ;  skin  russety  yellow,  with  dull  red  cheek ;  flesh  melt- 
ing and  good.  Mr.  Manning  says  that  its  abundant  bearing, 
and  its  ripening  gradually  in  the  house  during  winter,  render 
it  a  very  valuable  market  fruit ;  good  till  after  Christmas. 

SURPASSE  MARIE  LOUISE,  Pitt's  Prolific  Marie,  Pitt's  Marie 
Louise.  A  large  Pear;  oblong  or  calabash-formed;  green, 
covered  with  brown-yellow  russet;  flesh  melting  and  rich- 
flavored  ;  ripe  in  October  and  November.  It  is  a  very  prolific 
bearer. 

SURPASSE  ST.  GERMAIN.  Fruit  of  medium  size ;  round  at 
the  crown,  tapering  to  the  stem ;  it  is  of  very  irregular  form  ; 
the  skin  is  rough ;  color  yellow,  mixed  with  dull  brown ;  flesh 
coarse-grained,  sugary,  and  high  flavored ;  good  from  Novem- 
ber till  January. 

SURPASSE  VERGALIEU.  Fruit  large,  oblong,  some  specimens 
nearly  round ;  the  skin  smooth,  its  color  yellow,  with  a  light 
red  cheek;  flesh  rich,  juicy,  and  delicious  eating;  in  October 
and  November.  Mr.  Manning  says  the  tree  bears  young,  yields 
large  crops,  and  is  worthy  of  extensive  cultivation. 

UNEDALES  ST.  GERMAIN,  Belle  de  Jersey.  A  large  fine 
pyriform  Bell  Pear,  of  a  brownish-green  color,  with  russety 
spots ;  flesh  firm  and  high-flavored.  It  is  considered  a  first- 
rate  baking  Pear,  and  will  keep  till  March.  Mr.  Keid,  of  the 
Murray  Hill  Nursery,  exhibited  some  fine  specimens  of  this 
fruit  at  the  sixteenth  annual  fair  of  the  American  Institute, 
October,  1843. 

VICAR  OF  WINKFIELD,  Bourgmestre  of  Boston,  Monsieur  le 
Cure,  Dumas,  Clion  of  Boston,  according  to  the  catalogue  of 
Winter  &  Co.,  Flushing.  Fruit  oblong,  or  pyramidal ;  skin 
russety-yeilow,  with  ruddy  color  on  one  side;  flesh  firm, 


FRUIT-GARDES  ING.  169 

sweet,  and  rich ;  good  as  a  table  fruit,  from  December  to  Feb- 
ruary. This  variety  is  deserving  extensive  cultivation  for  its 
beauty,  large  size,  keeping  qualities,  and  productiveness. 

WINTER  NELIS,  Nelis  cTJIiver,  La  Bonne  Malinoise,  Spreeuw. 
All  accounts  agree  that  this  is  a  most  excellent  Winter  Pear ; 
its  size  is  above  medium,  somewhat  oval;  its  skin  green  and 
russety,  full  of  grey  dots ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  melting,  high- 
flavored,  with  a  musky  perfume;  at  perfection  in  Decembei 
and  January. 

PERRY   PEARS. 

BARLAND.  This  variety  took  its  name  from  the  original 
tree,  growing  in  a  field  called  Bare  Lands,  in  Herefordshire, 
England.  The  fruit  is  smallish,  of  ovate  form;  skin  dull 
green,  russeted  with  grey.  It  is  deemed  excellent  for  perry. 

HOLMORE.  Fruit  small  globular ;  skin  of  a  dingy  yellowish 
green,  tinged  with  red.  Excellent  perry  is  made  of  this  variet} 
in  Herefordshire,  England. 

HUFFCAP.  There  are  several  varieties  of  Pears  bearing  this 
name,  but  the  best  perry  is  made  of  the  true  Herefordshire 
Huffcap.  The  fruit  is  middle-sized,  of  pale  green  color,  marked 
with  grey  russet. 

MONARCH.  A  new  Pear,  considered  by  Mr.  Knight  as  with 
out  a  rival.  The  tree  is  of  rapid  growth,  and  an  abundant 
bearer;  fruit  large,  of  an  extraordinary  musky  flavor,  and 
deemed  excellent  for  perry ;  good  also  for  the  table ;  from 
October  to  December  and  January. 

OLDFIELD.  Fruit  below  the  medium  size,  of  pale  green 
color,  with  russety  spots.  An  excellent  perry  fruit.  Specific 
gravity  of  its  juice  1067.  From  this  variety  is  made  the  cele- 
brated Ledbury  Perry. 

LONGLAND.  Fruit  very  handsome,  much  like  the  Swan's 
Egg  in  shape ;  skin  bright  gold  color,  tinged  and  mottled  with 
a  russety  lively  orange;  specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1063. 
The  tree  is  handsome  and  upright,  and  much  cultivated  in 
Herefordshire  for  perry. 


170 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


TEINTON  SQUASH.  Fruit  middle-sized,  of  angular  shape; 
skin  a  muddy  russety  green,  marbled  with  dull  orange,  inter- 
spersed with  ash-colored  specks.  The  perry  made  from  this 
fruit  is  of  the  very  highest  quality,  something  approaching  in 
color  and  briskness  to  champagne,  for  which  fine  samples  of 
it  have  sometimes  been  sold. 

SELECT    DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS. 

THE  ONTARIO  PEAR.  This  variety  promises  well.  Those 
persons  who  have  raised  it  state  that  the  trees  grow  vigorously, 


Ontario. 


It  is  a 


and  will  doubtless  make  an  excellent  pear  for  market, 
seedling  of  the  Canandaigua  variety. 

BEURRE  D'ANJOU.     A  first-rate  autumn  Pear,  imported  from 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  171 

France  by  Col.  Wilder,  of  Boston ;  fruit  rather  above  medium 
size;  obovate;  skin  greenish-yellow,  a  little  clouded  with 
russet;  flesh  very  fine-grained,  buttery,  and  melting,  with  a 
rich,  sprightly  vinous  flavor. 

BEZI  DE  LA  MOTTE,  Bein  Armudi,  Beurre  Blanc  de  Jersey 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  bergamot-shaped,  skin  pale  yellowish 
green,  sprinkled  with  russet  dots;  flesh  white,  very  fine-grained, 
buttery  and  juicy,  with  a  sweet  perfumed  flavor;  an  old  autump 
variety,  ripe  in  October. 

BISHOP'S  THUMB.  An  old  English  autumn  Pear,  usually 
considered  first-rate ;  fruit  rather  large,  oblong,  and  narrow ; 
skin  yellowish-green,  dotted  with  russet,  and  tinged  with  red ; 
flesh  juicy,  melting,  and  of  a  rich  vinous  flavor. 
'  BON  CHRETIEN  FOND  ANTE.  A  new  Flemish  Pear,  abounding 
with  juice,  and  having  a  refreshing  and  agreeable  flavor ;  skin 
pale  green,  mottled,  and  dotted  with  russet ;  ripe  in  October. 

BUFFUM.  A  native  orchard  Pear,  from  Rhode  Island,  of  the 
Doyenne  family ;  fruit  of  medium  size,  oblong  ovate ;  skin 
deep  yellow,  finely  suffused  with  bright  red  and  russet  dots ; 
flesh  sweet  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  September. 

COMPTE  DE  LAMY,  Beurre  Curte,  Dingier,  Marie  Louise  the 
Second.  A  rich  Flemish  autumn  Pear,  of  medium  size,  roundish 
obovate;  skin  yellow,  with  a  brownish-red  cheek,  and  russety; 
flesh  melting  and  high-flavored. 

DUCHESSE  DE  MARS,  Duchess  of  Mars.  A  French  autumn 
Pear  of  medium  size,  obovate;  skin  dull  yellow,  partially 
covered  with  brown  russet,  with  a  dull  red  cheek ;  flesh  very 
melting,  and  of  a  rich  perfumed  flavor. 

DUNMORE.  A  truly  admirable  and  hardy  Pear  from  the 
garden  of  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  Fruit  large, 
oblong  obovate;  skin  greenish,  speckled  with  russet;  flesh 
buttery,  melting,  and  rich  ;  ripe  in  September. 

EYEWOOD.  A  hardy  and  prolific  seedling  of  Mr.  Knight's. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  oblate  or  flattened ;  skin  much  covered 
v.rith  russet;  flesh  buttery,  rich,  and  melting;  in  October  and 
November. 


172  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

FONDANTE  VAN  MONS.  An  excellent  melting  Pear,  intro- 
duced by  Mr.  Manning.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish ;  skin 
pale  yellow ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  sweet,  and  palatable ;  toward? 
the  end  of  October. 

JALOUSIE  DE  FONTENAY  VENDEE.  A  fine  autumn  French 
Pear,  of  medium  size ;  turbinate  or  obtuse  pyriform ;  skin  dull 
yellow  and  green,  with  red  cheek,  marked  with  russet ;  flesh 
melting,  with  a  rich-flavored  juice. 

LAWRENCE.  A  seedling  winter  pear,  from  the  nursery  of 
Messrs.  Wilcomb  &  King,  Flushing.  Fruit  rather  large, 
obovate ;  skin  yellowish-green,  with  patches  of  brown ;  flesl 
melting  and  rich ;  from  November  to  January. 

PARADISE  D'AUTOMNE.  A  newly  imported  early  autumn 
Pear,  of  large  size  ;  pyriform,  tapering  into  the  stalk ;  skin 
dull  yellow,  russeted ;  flesh  white,  fine-grained,  melting,  and 
luscious. 

'  PETRE.  This  fine  autumn  variety  originated  in  the  old  Bar- 
tram  Botanic  Garden,  near  Philadelphia,  from  a  seed  furnished 
by  Lord  Petre  of  London,  in  1735.  Fruit  of  medium  size, 
obovate ;  skin  pale  yellow,  marked  with  greenish  russet ;  flesh 
fine-grained  and  melting,  with  a  perfumed  high  flavor. 

QUEEN  OF  THE  Low  COUNTRIES,  Reine  des  Pays-Bas.  Fruit 
large,  broad  pyriform ;  skin  dull  yellow,  mottled  with  russet, 
and  overspread  with  fine  dark  red ;  flesh  melting,  with  a  rich 
sub-acid  vinous  flavor ;  early  in  October. 

EOSTIEZER.  A  German  Pear  of  medium  size ;  oblong  pyri- 
form; skin  yellowish-green,  with  reddish-brown  cheek,  and 
light-colored  dots ;  flesh  juicy,  melting,  sweet,  and  palatable ; 
in  September  and  October. 

ST.  GHISLAIN.  An  excellent  Belgium  autumn  Pear,  intro- 
duced by  S.  G.  Perkins,  Esq.,  of  Boston.  Fruit  of  medium 
size,  pyriform ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with  a  few  grey  specks ;  flesh 
white,  buttery,  juicy,  and  of  a  rich  sprightly  flavor. 

THOMPSON.  This  fine  autumn  Pear  was  named  in  honor  of 
Mr.  Robert  Thompson,  Superintendent  of  the  London  Horti- 
cultural Society's  garden.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  obovate; 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  ]  73 

sldn  pale  lemon-yellow,  dotted  and  streaked  with,  russet ;  flesh 
white,  buttery,  and  melting,  with  an  agreeable  aromatic  flavor ; 
tree  hardy  and  prolific,  producing  its  fruit  in  October  and 
November. 

VAN  MONS  LEON  LE  CLERC.  A  splendid  autumn  Pear, 
imported  by  Col.  Wilder  of  Boston.  Fruit  large,  oblong-ovate ; 
skin  yellowish,  mingled  with  brown;  flesh  yellowish-white, 
rich,  and  melting ;  in  October  and  November. 

VAN  BUREN.  A  seedling  raised  by  Gov.  Edwards  of  New 
Haven.  Fruit  large,  obovate ;  skin  clear  yellow,  with  a  rich 
orange-red  blush,  and  russet  spots  ;  flesh  sweet  and  perfumed ; 
excellent  for  baking  and  preserving. 

SELECTING  PEARS  ADAPTED  TO  LOCALITIES. 

The  reader  should  bear  in  mind  that  many  of  the  foregoing 
kinds  of  pears  will  succeed  well  in  certain  localities,  and  in 
other  places  be  nearly  worthless.  Locality  is  everything  with 
pears.  The  first  question  of  importance  is,  when  a  person  is 
about  to  plant  pear-trees — Will  that  kind  succeed  in  my 
locality  ? 

The  list  of  pears  might  be  increased  to  several  times  the 
present  length,  but  those  desiring  other  varieties  may  find 
them  minutely  described  in  fruit  catalogues  of  nursery-men  in 
various  parts  of  the  country.  New  varieties  are  originated 
every  year,  some  of  which  are  much  inferior  to  those  that  have 
been  grown  for  a  long  period.  Previous  to  selecting  trees, 
extensive  inquiry  should  be  made,  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  if 
there  are  any  trees  in  that  locality,  and  whether  they  bear 
abundantly,  or  yield  but  a  small  crop.  Every  beginner  should 
heed  this  caution,  and  not  select  a  variety  that  he  knows  no- 
thing of,  because  some  person  has  recommended  it  as  worthy 
of  cultivation. 

FIRE-BLIGHT   AND    MILDEW. 

The  Pear,  and  also  the  Quince,  aud  sometimes  other  trees, 
are  subject  to  the  fire-blight.  This  malady  may  be  completely 


174  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

checked  on  its  first  appearance,  by  cutting  off  and  immediately 
burning  the  injured  branches.  Generally  speaking,  careful 
pruning,  cleaning  the  bark  all  over  with  a  brush,  applying  soap 
or  tobacco-water  to  the  leaves,  and  occasionally  putting  good 
earth  and  good  manure  to  the  roots,  will  remedy  most  diseases 
in  fruit-trees.  Removing  them  from  a  bad  to  a  better  soil 
will,  of  course,  eifect  this,  where  it  proceeds  from  a  poorness* 
of  land ;  for  the  old  adage,  "  Remove  the  cause,  and  the  effect 
will  cease,"  will  be  here  exemplified.  To  cure  the  oozing  of 
the  gum,  nothing  more  is  necessary  than  to  cut  away  the  dis- 
eased parts  of  the  bark ;  and  by  thus  assisting  nature  in  cast- 
ing out  the  excrementitious  or  noxious  juices,  a  complete  cure 
may  be  effected. 

When  a  tree  is  affected  by  mildew,  let  it  be  immediately 
sprinkled  with  soapsuds,  and  then  be  dusted  over  with  sulphur 
and  tobacco-dust,  or  snuff;  at  the  same  time  dig  around  the 
tree,  and  examine  the  soil  and  subsoil ;  if  it  be  wet  and  can- 
kery,  it  should  be  taken  away,  and  replaced  with  good  healthy 
soil,  and  the  ground  drained.  On  the  contrary,  if  the  ground 
be  dry,  give  it  a  plentiful  watering.  The  same  remedy  may 
serve  as  a  preventive  of  the  extension  of  blight,  if  applied  in 
time.  When  any  canker  is  observed,  the  part  affected  must, 
at  the  time  of  pruning,  be  cut  clean  out,  and  the  part  thus 
dressed  be  pared,  so  that  no  water  can  lodge  in  the  wound. 
When  this  is  done,  let  a  quantity  of  soot  be  mixed  with 
water,  and  a  little  train-oil  well  worked  among  it,  but  so  that 
the  mixture  finally  remains  stiff.  This  may  be  plastered  over 
all  the  wounds  that  have  been  pruned.  The  application  of  this 
mixture  keeps  out  the  wet  from  the  wounds,  where  it  would 
be  likely  to  lodge,  and  both  the  soot  and  oil  promote  vegeta- 
tion. When  trees  are  cankery  from  having  a  bad  subsoil,  it  is 
in  vain  to  apply  any  remedy  till  the  ground  is  properly  drained, 
some  fresh  soil  mixed  with  the  natural  soil,  and  the  tree 
replanted.  When  trees  are  known  to  be  so  situated  as  -to 
be  particularly  liable  to  the  attacks  of  insects  or  disease, 
they  should  be  attended  to  at  the  time  of  winter  or  early 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


175 


spring  pruning,  in  order  to  destroy  the  insects  in  their  larva 

state. 

MANAGEMENT    OP    DWARF   PEAR-TREES. 

The  two  illustrations  of  dwarf  pear  trees-shown  under  this 
head  will  furnish  a  fair  idea  of  the  manner  of  training  dwarf- 
trees.  The  short  lines  will  show  where  the  branches  must  be 
shortened,  or  cut  off,  during  the  successive  years.  The  knife 
must  be  employed  freely  in  order  to  produce  a  beautiful  dwarf- 
tree  of  any  kind  of  fruit. 


Fig.  D. 
How  to  produce  a  Dwarf  Pear-Tree. 


Fig.  E. 
Dwarf  Pear-Tree. 


Figure  D  represents  a  four-year  pyramidal  tree,  pruned  three 
times,  each  section  being  shown  by  the  figures  1,  2,  8 ;  and 
the  lines  across  the  branches  represent  the  point  where  the 
knife  is  to  be  applied  at  the  next  pruning.  Figure  E  represents 
a  tree  loaded  with  fruit,  after  the  top  has  been  pruned  in  the 
pyramidal  form.  Such  trees  are  kept  in  form  from  year  to 
year,  by  cutting  and  punching  off  the  ends  of  the  growing 
branches. 


176  FRUIT-GARDENING. 


PLUM.     PRUNIER.     Prunus. 

The  Plum-tree  grows  fifteen  feet  or  more  in  height,  branch- 
ing into  a  moderately  spreading  head ;  the  leaves  are  ovate, 
serrated,  and  on  short  petioles;  petals  white.  The  natural 
color  of  the  fruit  is  generally  considered  to  be  black ;  but  the 
varieties  in  cultivation  are  of  yellow,  red,  blue,  and  green 
colors,  and  of  different  forms  and  flavors.  There  are  several 
good  sorts  that  grow  wild  in  the  hedges  of  Britain,  and  also  w 
America,  but  its  original  country  is  supposed  to  "be  Asia.  Ac 
cording  to  Pliny,  it  was  taken  from  Syria  into  Greece,  and  from 
thence  into  Italy.  There  are  many  varieties  cultivated  in 
France ;  and  in  the  London  Horticultural  Garden  there  are 
about  three  hundred  sorts  kept  under  name.  The  Green  Gage 
is  considered  the  best  dessert  Plum,  and  the  Egg  Plum  for 
sweetmeats ;  but  the  Damson  is  the  best  baking  Plum. 

The  Plum  is  said  to  succeed  best  in  a  lofty  exposure,  and 
may  yield  well  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  United  States. 
Plum-trees  yield  well  near  Albany,  but  the  fruit  is  by  no 
means  plentiful  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city  of  New  York.  Like 
the  Nectarine,  it  is  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  Curculio  and 
other  insects. 

It  has  been  observed  that  Plum-trees  growing  in  frequented 
lanes  or  barn-yards,  are  more  generally  fruitful  than  those  cul- 
tivated in  private  gardens  or  secluded  situations.  This  circum- 
stance is  by  some  attributed  to  the  jarring  of  the  trees,  by 
cattle  and  swine  rubbing  against  them ;  thus  causing  the  de- 
fective fruit  to  fall  on  the  ground.  Geese  kept  in  orchards  or 
fruit-gardens  often  prove  beneficial ;  as  they,  by  devouring  the 
defective  fruit  and  other  corruptible  matter,  prevent  the  pos- 
sibility of  insects  getting  into  the  ground,  so  as  to  perpetuate 
their  existence  or  multiply  their  species. 

Cobbett  attributes  the  scarcity  of  Plums  in  New  York  to 
neglect.  In  his  American  Gardener  he  asks :  "  How  is  it  that 
we  see  so  few  Plums  in  America,  when  the  markets  are  supplied 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  177 

with  cart-loads  in  such  a  chilly,  shady,  and  blighty  country  as 
England  ? " 

I  would  answer  this  query  by  informing  the  reader  that  the 
inhabitants  of  our  parent  country,  with  a  view  to  derive  the 
full  benefit  of  the  sun's  rays  for  the  cultivation  of  Plums, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  such  other  fruit  as  require  extra  heat, 
train  their  trees  against  walls,  fences,  or  trellis-work  ;  and  from 
their  having  these  means  of  support,  gardeners  have  no  induce- 
ment to  plant  them  deeper  than  is  necessary ;  whereas,  from 
the  circumstance  of  the  American  climate  being  sufficiently 
warm  to  ripen  those  fruits  on  standard  trees,  they  are  generally 
so  cultivated.  Many  persons,  to  save  the  trouble  of  staking 
or  otherwise  supporting  their  trees,  plant  them  too  deep,  and 
thus  defeat  the  operations  of  nature.  That  this  is  a  prevalent 
error  has  been  shown  in  the  articles  Nectarine  and  Peach,  to 
which  the  reader  is  referred  for  a  more  concise  view  of  the  sub- 
ject. 

New  varieties  of  the  Plum  are  produced  from  seed ;  and  the 
old  kinds  are  generally  propagated  by  budding  on  stocks  of 
free-growing  Plums,  in  preference  to  grafting,  because  Plum- 
trees  are  very  apt  to  gum  wherever  large  wounds  are  made  in 
them.  All  the  sorts  produce  their  fruit  on  small  natural  spurs 
rising  at  the  ends  and  along  the  sides  of  the  bearing  shoots  of 
one,  two,  or  three  years'  growth.  In  most  sorts,  new  fruit 
branches  are  two  years  old  before  the  spurs  bear.  The  same 
branches  and  spurs  continue  fruitful,  in  proportion  to  the  time 
which  they  take  to  come  into  bearing. 

After  the  formation  of  the  head  is  begun,  it  takes  from  two 
to  six  years  before  the  different  sorts  come  into  bearing.  Stand- 
ards must  be  allowed  to  expand  in  free  growth,  occasionally 
pruning  long  ramblers  and  irregular  cross  branches.  In  annual 
pruning,  thin  crowded  parts,  cut  away  worn-out  bearers,  and 
all  decayed  and  cankery  wood.  The  Plum  may  be  cultivated 
in  small  gardens,  trained  as  an  espalier,  or  to  a  close  fence,  like 
the  Apricot.  The  tree  is  of  further  use  than  for  its  fruit  as  a 

dessert.     The  bark  dyes  yellow  ;  the  wood  is  used  by  turners ; 

8* 


178  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  the  dried  fruit,  or  prune,  is  formed  into  electuaries  and 
gentle  purgatives.  Prunes  were  originally  brought  from 
Damascus,  whence  the  name  damson. 

• 

MANAGEMENT    OF    PLUM-TREES. 

Plum-trees  require  a  soil  free  from  superabundant  moisture 
and  well  cultivated.  The  trees  may  be  planted  out  in  the 
spring,  or  in  autumn,  in  ground  that  is  kept  clear  from  weeds 
and  grass  for  at  least  four  or  five  years.  The  soil  for  plums 
should  have  a  good  proportion  of  clay  in  it ;  and  if  clay  pre- 
dominates, mingle  some  sand  with  the  clay.  Wood-ashes,  iron 
filings,  iron  turnings,  and  oxide  of  iron,  which  may  be  col- 
lected at  the  blacksmith's  shop,  are  excellent  for  plum-trees. 
Coal-dust,  soot,  and  all  such  materials,  will  promote  the  health 
of  plum-trees  and  render  them  eminently  productive. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PLUMS. 

AMERICAN  YELLOW  GAGE,  American  Wheat.  A  beautiful 
medium-sized  oval  Plum,  of  a  bright  yellow  color,  when  fully 
ripe  ;  its  flavor  is  rich,  equal  to  the  Green  Gage.  The  fruit  is 
not  apt  to  crack  nor  to  be  attacked  by  insects.  It  is  a  very 
suitable  variety  to  cultivate  for  the  market ;  it  ripens  in  August 
and  September. 

APRICOT  PLUM,  Prune  Abricote,  Abricotee  de  Tours.  A  large 
freestone  Plum ;  its  form  is  globular,  depressed,  divided  by  a 
deep  suture ;  whitish  yellow,  but  faint  red  next  the  sun,  and 
covered  with  bloom ;  its  flesh  is  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  musky,  and 
excellent ;  it  ripens  in  August  and  September. 

BINGHAM,  Bingham's  Yellow  Cling.  A  delicious  clingstone 
Plum,  of  large  size  and  oval  form ;  skin  bright  yellow,  spotted 
and  blotched  with  red ;  flesh  yellow,  rich,  and  delicious ;  ripen- 
ing in  August  and  September. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  1 79 

BLEECKER'S  GAGE.  This  fine  freestone  Plum  is  stated  to 
have  been  raised  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bleecker,  of  Albany,  from  the 
stone  of  a  German  Prune ;  it  is  a  large  globular  fruit,  of  excel- 
lent quality  ;  skin  dark  yellow,  with  red  spots  and  blotches ; 
the  flesh  is  rich,  saccharine,  and  juicy ;  in  September. 

COE'S  GOLDEN  DROP,  Coe's  Imperial,  Bury  Seedling,  Golden 
Gage,  Fair's  Golden  Drop.  Raised  by  Mr.  Coe,  Bury  St. 
Edmunds,  Suffolk,  England.  The  tree  is  vigorous;  fruit  oval, 
of  large  size ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  spotted  with  violet  and 
crimson  ;  the  flesh,  which  separates  from  the  stone,  is  of  gold 
color,  rich,  and  excellent ;  the  fruit  ripens  at  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember, and  will  keep  several  weeks.  A  first-rate  fruit,  and 
worthy  of  general  cultivation. 

COE'S  LATE  RED,  Saint  Martin,  Saint  Martin  Rouge.  An 
excellent  freestone  Plum  of  medium  size,  in  form  almost 
round ;  its  color  is  violet  purple,  with  a  partial  degree  of  bloom ; 
flesh  rich,  saccharine,  and  high  flavored.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
of  late  Plums ;  ripening  in  October  and  November. 

COLUMBIA,  Columbian  Gage.  A  beautiful  native  clingstone 
Plum,  of  light  purple  color ;  the  flesh  is  firm,  of  a  greenish 
hue,  with  an  abundance  of  rich-flavored  juice.  The  tree  is  a 
great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  August. 

COOPER'S  LARGE  RED,  Cooper's  Large  American,  La  Deli- 
cieuse.  This  Plum  is  of  extraordinary  size,  measuring  within  an 
eighth  of  two  inches  in  each  direction ;  the  skin  is  of  a  fine  dark 
purple  color ;  the  flesh  is  yellowish  green,  rich,  juicy,  and  of 
pleasant  flavor ;  the  fruit  makes  excellent  preserves,  if  gathered 
in  August;  its  great  defect  is  an  inclination  to  rot,  if  left 
long  on  the  tree. 

DENNISTON'S  SUPERB  is  an  excellent  variety.  The  color  is  a 
pale  yellowish-green,  somewhat  similar  to  the  Green  Gage 
plum.  It  was  originated  by  Isaac  Denniston,  Albany,  N.  Y. 

DIAMOND  PLUM.  Some  consider  this  as  the  largest  Plum 
known  ;  its  color  is  a  dark  purple ;  in  form  it  resembles  the 
Magnum  Bonum,  but  its  flavor  is  considered  rather  superior ; 
it  ripens  in  September,  and  the  flesh  separates  clear  from  the 


180 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


stone.     The  tree,  which  grows  vigorously,  originated  with  Mr. 
Hooker,  Kent,  England 


Denniston's  Superb. 


DOWNING'S  EMERALD  DROP.  A  beautiful  clingstone  Plum 
of  medium  size,  oblong  form,  and  green  color ;  flesh  firm  and 
of  delicious  flavor ;  this  variety  originated  at  the  Nursery  of 
A.  J.  Downing  &  Co.,  Newburgh,  State  of  New  York. 

DOWNTON  IMPERATRICE.  A  superior  late  Plum,  of  medium 
size,  shaped  similar  to  the  Blue  Imperatrice  ;  skin  dark  yellow, 
and  very  thin ;  the  flesh  yellow,  soft,  juicy,  with  a  high-flavor- 
ed acidity ;  at  perfection  in  October  and  November. 

DRAP  D'OR,  Cloth  of  Gold,  Mirabelle  Double.  Yellow  Per- 
drigon  of  Winter  &  Co.  A  small  freestone  Plum,  of  a  round- 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  181 

ish  form  and  bright  yellow  color,  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  yellow, 
tender ;  juice  sugary  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

DUANE'S  FRENCH  PURPLE,  Dame  Aubert  Violet.  Purple 
Magnum  Bonum  and  Purple  Egg  of  some  collections.  A  very 
superior  clingstone  Plum,  of  large  size,  and  oblong  form  ;  the 
skin  dark  purple ;  flesh  sweet,  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent ;  ripe 
in  September.  This  variety,  from  being  imported  by  Mr. 
Duane  of  New  York,  was  named  after  him,  as  he  had  lost  the 
original  name. 

EARLY  ORLEANS,  New  Orleans,  Early  Monsieur,  Monsieur 
Hatif.  A  fine  freestone  plum,  above  medium  size;  form 
round ;  its  suture  deep  ;  color  dark  purple,  covered  with  a  fine 
bloom ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  of  excellent  flavor ;  sweet,  com- 
bined with  a  pleasant  acid ;  it  ripens  in  August. 

EARLY  TOURS,  Precoce  de  Tours,  Early  Violet.  The  tree  is 
vigorous  and  fertile;  fruit  small,  oval,  dark  purple  covered 
with  fine  bloom ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  and  of 
very  agreeable  flavor ;  one  of  the  best  early  varieties,  and  very 
productive ;  ripe  at  the  end  of  July. 

ELFRY.  French  Cooper  of  Prince.  A  native  clingstone 
Plum,  highly  esteemed  in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey  for  its 
productiveness  and  other  good  qualities;  the  fruit  is  below 
medium  size,  of  oblong  shape  and  dark  blue  color ;  flesh  firm, 
very  rich  and  delicious  ;  in  September. 

GERMAN  PRUNE,  Prune  d*  Allemagne,  Damas  Gros,  Quetsche, 
Quetzen.  The  fruit  of  the  Quetsche  Plum  is  grown  for  the 
purpose  of  drying,  and  is  considered  the  best  for  use  as 
prunes ;  fruit  below  the  middle  size ;  of  an  oval  figure ;  skin 
red  and  purple  ;  flesh  yellow ;  juice  sweet,  with  a  slight  acid; 
ripe  early  in  September. 

GOLIATH,  Goliah,  St.  Cloud,  Caledonian.  Wilmofs  Late 
Orleans.  This  fruit  is  very  large,  sometimes  weighing  four 
ounces ;  the  skin  is  a  deep  reddish  purple  ;  the  flesh  pale  yel- 
low, firm,  and  well  flavored,  but  not  rich,  slightly  adhering  to 
the  stone  ;•  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  is  much 
used  for  cooking  ;  ripe  in  September. 


1 82  FRUIT-GARDENING*. 

GREEN  GAGE,  Great  Queen  Claude,  Dauphine,  Grosse  Reine, 
Claude  Abricot  Vert,  Verte  Bonne,  Oros  Damas  Vert.  A  mid- 
dle-sized round  fruit,  of  a  yellowish-green  color,  and  purplish 
russety  red  next  the  sun  ;  the  flesh  is  of  a  greenish  hue,  melt- 
ing, with  i  an  abundance  of  very  sweet  and  highly  perfumed 
juice,  of  an  exquisite  taste ;  it  arrives  at  maturity  towards  the 
end  of  August. 

HORSE  PLUM,  Large  Sweet  Damson.  Fruit  of  medium  size, 
oval,  with  a  deep  suture  in  the  middle ;  skin  dark  red,  inclining 
to  purple  when  ripe ;  flesh  greenish  yellow ;  juice  acid  but 
agreeable.  Quantities  of  these  Plums  are  sold  in  the  New 
York  markets  in  August  and  September,  for  sweetmeats.  The 
trees  are  generally  raised  from  suckers ;  and  Peaches,  Apri- 
cots, and  Nectarines  will  bud  and  thrive  well  on  such  stocks. 

HULING'S  SUPERB,  Keysets  Plum.  This  Plum  is  of  mon- 
strous size,  and  has  been  known  to  weigh  nearly  four  ounces  ', 
it  is  of  roundish  form,  and  of  a  greenish-yellow  color ;  the  flesh 
sweet  and  excellent.  It  was  raised  from  seed  by  Mr.  Keyser, 
is  of  Pennsylvania,  and  brought  into  notice  by  Dr.  Wm. 
Hulings,  of  that  State. 

IMPERATRICE,  Imperatrice  Violette,  Blue  Imperatrice.  Simi- 
ana  of  some  collections.  One  of  the  best  of  late  clingstone 
Plums;  fruit  medium  size,  oval;  skin  rich  deep  purple, 
covered  with  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish  green,  a  little  firm,  very 
sweet,  rich,  and  juicy ;  the  fruit  hangs  long  on  the  tree,  and  is 
at  maturity  in  October  and  November. 

IMPERIAL  DIADEM,  Red  Imperial,  Red  Diaper.  A  fine  fruit, 
admirably  adapted  for  culinary  purposes;  shape  oval;  color 
pale  red,  but  dark  when  mature;  flesh  yellow,  and  separates 
from  the  stone ;  juice  plentiful  when  perfectly  ripe,  which 
is  early  in  September ;  it  is  of  good  flavor,  and  highly  perfumed. 

ITALIAN  DAMASK,  Damas  d'ltalie.  This  fruit  is  of  medium 
size,  nearly  round,  a  little  flattened  at  the  base ;  its  color  blue 
or  violet,  and  covered  with  a  purple  bloom ;  its  flesh  is  yellow, 
rich,  and  juicy,  and  the  tree,  which  matures  its  fruit  in  August, 
is  very  productive. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  183 

KIRKE'S  PLUM.  This  variety  is  said  to  be  as  hardy  and  pro- 
lific as  the  Orleans,  as  handsome  as  the  Damask,  and  as  good 
as  the  Green  Gage ;  fruit  large,  roundish ;  skin  covered  with 
a  close,  firm,  azure  bloom,  through  which  appear  a  few  golden 
specks ;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  firm,  juicy,  and  rich ;  in  perfec- 
tion the  early  part  of  September. 

LA  ROYALE,  Royale.  A  large  and  excellent  freestone  Plum, 
of  a  homely  dull  red  color,  but  concealed  by  a  thick  violet  or 
azure  bloom ;  flesh  fine,  yellowish- green,  firm,  juicy,  high-fla- 
vored, and  delicious;  a  superior  Plum;  at  maturity  early  in 
September. 

LATE  PURPLE  DAMSON,  Purple  Winter  Damson,  Blue  Da- 
mascene, Blue  Damson.  This  variety  is  in  great  esteem  for 
preserves,  and  generally  commands  a  high  price.  It  is  of  a 
dark  purple  color,  covered  with  bloom  ;  the  flesh  has  rather 
too  much  acidity  for  a  table  fruit,  but  this  tartness  gives  it  an 
agreeable  flavor  when  cooked ;  and  if  the  fruit  remains  on  the 
tree  until  November,  it  becomes  sweet. 

LAWRENCE  GAGE,  Lawrence's  Favorite.  A  large  round  free- 
stone Plum,  of  a  yellowish-green  color,  tinged  with  red ;  flesh 
firm,  and  of  delicious  flavor,  similar  to  the  Green  Gage.  The 
tree  is  very  fertile,  and  yields  an  abundance  of  fruit  in  August 
and  September. 

LUCOMBE'S  NONESUCH.  This  Plum  is  large,  compressed  at 
the  summit  and  base ;  its  breadth  is  two  inches ;  its  color  at 
maturity,  as  well  as  its  form,  resembles  the  Green  Gage,  but 
more  streaked  with  yellow  ;  flesh  firm,  rich,  and  juicy ;  at 
maturity  in  August ;  tree  a  good  bearer. 

MIMMS,  Mimms  Plum,  Diapree  Rouge.  The  fruit  is  very 
large,  a  little  oblong ;  color  bright  purple,  covered  with  thick 
bloom  ;  its  flesh,  which  separates  from  the  stone,  is  yellowish- 
green,  tender,  juicy,  and  very  agreeably  flavored  ;  ripe  in  Sep- 
tember. 

MOROCCO,  Early  Black  Damask,  Black  Damascus,  Black 
Morocco,  Early  Damask,  Early  Morocco.  This  is  considered 
one  of  the  best  of  early  Plums.  The  tree  is  very  hardy  and 


184  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

productive ;  fruit  middle-sized,  roundish ;  skin  deep  blackish 
purple,  covered  with  a  light  blue  bloom ;  flesh  greenish-yel- 
low, juicy,  rich,  and  high-flavored ;  ripe  early  in  August. 

NECTARINE  PLUM,  Caledonian,  HowelVs  Large,  Prune  Peche, 
Jenkiris  Imperial.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  Plums  known  ; 
large,  nearly  round ;  the  skin  at  maturity  varies  from  red  to 
crimson,  covered  with  azure  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish,  coarse- 
grained, astringent ;  juice  abundant,  and  of  a  mild,  pleasant 
flavor ;  at  maturity  in  July  and  early  in  August. 

NEW  YORK  PURPLE,  Brevoorfs  Purple  Bolmar,  Brevoorfs 
Purple  Washington.  An  excellent  fruit,  raised  from  a  seed  of 
Bolraar's  Washington  Plum,  that  had  been  impregnated  with 
the  pollen  of  the  Blue  Gage.  The  fruit  is  very  large ;  skin 
brown  red,  covered  with  purple  bloom :  flesh  yellow,  of  a  rich 
and  brisk  flavor,  and  adheres  to  the  stone;  ripe  towards  the 
end  of  August. 

OCTOBER  GAGE,  Frost  Gage.  A  beautiful  native  fruit,  a 
drawing  of  which  has  been  taken  from  nature,  and  may  be 
found  in  "  Hofly's  Orchardist's  Companion."  Fruit  of  medium 
size ;  form  oblong ;  color  dark  brownish-purple,  covered  with 
a  black  bloom  ;  flesh  firm  and  juicy  ;  flavor  sprightly  and 
agreeable  ;  ripe  early  in  October. 

ORLEANS  PLUM,  Red  Damask,  Damas  Rouge,  Monsieur.  A 
well  known  and  productive  Plum ;  of  medium  size,  and  some- 
what oval  form ;  the  skin  is  dark  red,  approaching  to  purple, 
with  a  thin  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  and  good,  separat- 
ing freely  from  the  stone  ;  ripe  in  August. 

POND'S  PURPLE,  Pond's  Seedling.  A  large  round  purple 
clingstone  Plum,  a  native  of  Massachusetts;  it  is  of  peculiar 
rich  flavor,  not  apt  to  crack,  and  is  well  adapted  for  the 
markets.  The  tree  bears  wonderful  crops,  which  ripen  in 
August. 

PRINCE'S  IMPERIAL  GAGE,  Flushing  Gage,  Superior  Green 
Gage,  White  Gage.  This  tree  was  originated  at  the  Flushing 
nursery,  from  a  seed  of  the  Green  Gage.  The  fruit  is  one  of 
the  finest  of  its  class ;  the  skin  at  maturity  is  yellow,  with  a 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  185 

•whitish  bloom;  the  flesh  is  rich,  luscious,  and  of  excellent 
flavor.  It  makes  fine  preserves,  if  gathered  towards  the  end 
of  August ;  at  maturity  in  September. 

PRINCE'S  ORANGE  EGG.  A  large,  splendid,  orange-colored 
clingstone  Plum,  of  oval  form,  aud  of  peculiarly  rich  flavor; 
ripe  in  August.  The  tree  yields  abundant  crops  of  truly  beau- 
tiful fruit,  which  is  never  attacked  by  insects,  as  many  kinds  are. 

PRUNE  SUISSE,  Semiana,  Prune  cTAltesse,  Monsieur  Tardif, 
Swiss  Prune.  Fruit  very  handsome,  round,  flattened ;  color 
varying  from  bright  amber  to  deep  red,  and  covered  with  azure 
bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  delicious,  melting,  and  closely  adheres  to 
the  stone ;  juice  very  abundant.  An  excellent  fruit ;  ripening 
in  September. 

PURPLE  QAGE,Blue  Gage,  Reine  Claude  Violette,  Die  Violette 
Koniginn  Claudian.  This  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  almost  round, 
and  may  be  considered  as  one  of  the  finest  varieties ;  its  skin 
is  of  a  violet  purple  color,  with  pale  yellow  dots,  and  covered 
with  a  light  blue  bloom ;  flesh  greenish-amber,  rich,  saccharine, 
and  high-flavored :  at  maturity  in  August,  and  good  until  Oc- 
tober. 

QUEEN  VICTORIA,  Sharp's  Emperor,  Dennyer's  Victoria.  An 
excellent  freestone  Plum,  as  large  as  the  Red  Magnum  Bonum  ; 
of  a  roundish  oval  form,  and  red  color,  covered  with  a  fine 
bloom ;  the  flesh  is  firm,  rich,  juicy,  and  delicious.  The  tree 
grows  very  strong,  and  yields  abundant  crops  in  September. 

RED  DIAPER,  Diapree  Rouge,  Roche  Carbon.  One  of  the 
most  beautiful  Plums  known  ;  form  oval,  above  medium  size ; 
color  bright  red ;  flesh  greenish-yellow,  soft  and  sweet,  sepa- 
rating from  the  stone ;  the  fruit  makes  excellent  prunes,  if 
gathered  early  in  September;  and  like  the  Imperatrice,  will 
hang  some  time  on  the  tree. 

RED  MAGNUM  BONUM,  Red  Imperial,  Imperial  Violette  of 
the  French,  Purple  Egg  of  Prince  and  others.  A  large,  oval 
Plum,  of  deep  red  color,  covered  with  blue  bloom ;  the  flesh, 
which  parts  from  the  stone,  is  harsh  and  acid ;  consequently 
good  for  cooking,  preserves,  etc. :  in  September  and  October. 


186  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

RED  PERDRIGON,  Perdrigon  Rouge.  An  excellent  Plum,  of 
the  first  class ;  of  medium  size,  oval  shape,  and  fine  red  color, 
with  gold-colored  dots,  and  a  fine  bloom ;  flesh  bright  yellow, 
transparent,  and  separates  from  the  stone ;  juice  sweet  and  deli- 
cious ;  ripe  early  in  September.  It  makes  excellent  prunes, 
not  inferior  to  the  White  Perdrigon. 

RED  QUEEN  MOTHER.  The  Plum  is  of  medium  size,  its  color 
bright  red  and  yellow,  somewhat  spotted,  and  covered  with 
pale  bloom ;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  sweet,  and  excellent,  ripening 
early  in  September.  A  very  productive  variety,  and  highly 
deserving  of  cultivation. 

ROYAL  DE  TOURS.  The  tree  is  of  extraordinarily  vigorous 
growth  ;  its  principal  stem  rises  vertically ;  the  fruit  is  globular, 
of  medium  size ;  red  violet  color,  and  covered  with  azure 
bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  fine,  good ;  juice  abundant  and  sweet : 
ripens  early  in  August. 

SAINT  CATHARINE.  A  medium-sized,  oblong  fruit;  skin 
bright  gold  color,  spotted  with  red  at  maturity,  and  covered 
with  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  tender,  sweet,  and  fine  flavor  ;  ripens 
early  in  September,  and  will  hang  some  time  on  the  tree.  A 
good  market  Plum,  for  which  purpose  it  is  much  cultivated. 

SMITH'S  ORLEANS.  This  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  as  a 
market  fruit;  the  trees  are  free  from  gum  and  insects,  and 
yields  abundant  crops  of  large  freestone  Plums,  of  an  oval  form 
and  purple  color.  The  fruit  ripens  gradually  in  September. 

SURPASSE  MONSIEUR.  A  large  fruit,  of  oval  form,  and  of  a 
dark  red  purplish  color,  raised  by  a  Mr.  Noisette  ;  it  is  said  to 
be  more  beautiful  and  perfumed  than  the  Monsieur,  and  the 
tree  yields  suckers,  which  produce  fruit  in  all  its  beauty  and 
excellence :  in  September. 

VIRGINALE,  White  Virginal.  This  fruit  ranks  among  the 
best  of  Plums ;  its  shape  is  round ;  color  yellowish,  touched 
with  violet  or  rose,  and  covered  with  dense  bloom ;  flesh  melt- 
ing, juice  abundant,  and  very  agreeable ;  it  adheres  to  the 
stone  :  ripe  in  September. 

WASHINGTON,    New     Washington,    Bolmar's     Washington, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  187 

Franklin.  A  very  large,  globular  Plum,  inclining  to  oval ; 
color  greenish-yellow,  with  crimson  specks,  covered  with  a  rich 
bloom.  This  Plum  has  sometimes  weighed  over  four  ounces  ; 
its  flesh  is  yellow,  firm,  sweet,  and  delicious :  in  August.  This 
variety  originated  in  New  York,  from  suckers  of  an  old  root, 
the  tree  of  which  had  been  some  time  previously  destroyed  by 
lightning. 

WHITE  MAGNUM  BONUM,  Yellow  Magnum  Bonum,  Grosse 
Luisante,  Imperiale  Blanche,  Egg  Plum,  White  Mogul,  White 
Holland.  This  fruit  is  of  extraordinary  size;  oval,  yellow, 
covered  with  pale  bloom  ;  the  flesh  yellow,  firm,  closely  adher- 
ing to  the  stone ;  excellent  for  cooking  and  preserves  :  in  Sep- 
tember. 

WHITE  PERDRIGON,  Perdrigon  blanc.  A  middle-sized,  oblong 
fruit,  of  a  pale  yellow,  with  red  spots,  and  covered  with  white 
bloom;  flesh  yellow,  saccharine,  and  juicy,  separating  from  the 
stone  :  it  ripens  in  August. 

AUTUMN  GAGE,  Roe's  Autumn  Gage.  A  new  late  Plum,  raised 
by  William  Roe,  Esq.,  of  Newburgh.  Fruit  of  medium  size, 
oval ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with  whitish  bloom ;  flesh  juicy,  and  of 
delicate  pleasant  flavor :  in  September. 

BUEL'S  FAVORITE.  An  excellent  clingstone  Plum,  raised  by 
Isaac  Denniston,  of  Albany.  Fruit  pretty  large,  ovate ;  skin 
pale  green,  sprinkled  with  lighter  dots,  and  a  little  red ;  flesh 
juicy  and  high-flavored :  end  of  August. 

CRUGER'S  SCARLET,  Cruger's  Seedling.  A  seedling  raised  by 
Henry  Cruger,  Esq.,  of  New  York.  Fruit  rather  larger  than  the 
Green  Gage,  roundish,  oval ;  skin  a  lively  red,  covered  with  thin 
blue  bloom ;  flesh  of  a  sprightly  flavor. 

DAMSON,  Common  Damson,  Purple  Damson,  Black  Damson. 
A  favorite  fruit  with  old  housekeepers  for  preserves,  of  which 
there  are  many  varieties,  which  from  being  frequently  raised 
from  seed  vary  somewhat  in  character.  They  ripen  in  suc- 
cession from  September  to  November. 

DENNISTON'S  SUPERB.  Fruit  round,  a  little  flattened ;  skin 
yellowish-green,  with  purple  blotches,  overspread  with  a  thin 


188  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

bloom;  flesh  very  thick,  juicy,  with  a  rich  vinous  flavor;  a 
freestone,  ripening  towards  the  end  of  August. 

ICKWORTH  IMPERATRICE,  Knight's  No.  6.  A  choice  seedling 
from  Mr.  Knight,  of  Downton  Castle.  Fruit  above  medium 
size,  obovate  ;  skin  purple,  embroidered  with  streaks  of  golden 
fawn-color ;  flesh  juicy  and  rich  :  it  ripens  early  in  October, 
and  may  be  kept  till  Christmas  if  laid  away  in  paper. 

ISABELLA.  An  attractive-looking  English  clingstone  Plum 
of  medium  size  ;  skin  dark  red  in  the  sun,  paler  in  the  shade, 
and  dotted ;  flesh  yellow,  rich,  juicy,  and  of  delicious  flavor : 
towards  the  end  of  August. 

JEFFERSON.  A  Plum  of  high  merit,  raised  by  the  late  Judge 
Buel.  Fruit  large,  oval ;  skin  golden  yellow,  with  a  purplish 
red  cheek,  covered  with  a  thin  bloom ;  flesh  rich,  juicy,  and 
high-flavored :  towards  the  end  of  August. 

LOMBARD,  Bleeclcer's  Scarlet,  Beeckmatfs  Scarlet.  This  va- 
riety was  brought  into  notice  by  Mr.  Lombard,  of  Springfield, 
Massachusetts.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish  oval;  skin 
delicate  violet,  dotted  with  red ;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  and 
pleasant :  in  August. 

ORANGE  PLUM,  Orange  Gage.  A  plum  of  extraordinary  size 
from  the  garden  of  Mr.  Teller,  of  Rhinebeck,  New  York.  Skin 
bronze-yellow,  clouded  with  purple ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  a  little 
coarse-grained,  but  of  a  pleasant  acid  flavor :  ripens  the  last  of 
August. 

PURPLE  FAVORITE.  This  variety  was  first  introduced  by  A. 
J.  Downing,  Esq.,  of  the  Newburgh  Nursery.  Fruit  above 
medium  size,  roundish  ovate ;  skin  light  brown  in  the  shade, 
purple  in  the  sun,  dotted  with  golden  specks  and  thin  light, 
bloom  ;  flesh  pale  green,  very  juicy,  tender,  luscious,  "and  melt- 
ing :  ripens  towards  the  last  of  August. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  189 

QUINCE.    COIGNASSIER.     Cydonia. 

The  Quince  is  of  low  growth,  much  branched,  and  generally 
crooked  and  distorted.  The  leaves  are  roundish  or  ovate, 
entire,  above  dusky  green,  underneath  whitish,  on  short  peti- 
oles. The  flowers  are  large,  white,  or  pale  red,  and  appear  in 
May  and  June.  The  fruit,  a  pome,  varying  in  shape  in  the 
different  varieties,  globular,  oblong,  or  ovate.  It  has  a  peculiar 
and  rather  disagreeable  smell,  and  austere  taste.  The  fruit 
takes  its  name  from  being  a  native  of  the  ancient  town  of 
Cydon,  in  the  Island  of  Crete.  Some  suppose  it  to  be  a  cor- 
ruption of  Mains  colonea,  by  which  the  Latins  designated  the 
fruit.  It  is  used  as  a  marmalade  for  flavoring  apple-pies,  and 
makes  an  excellent  sweetmeat ;  and  it  has  the  advantage  over 
many  other  fruits  for  keeping,  if  properly  managed. 

Of  the  several  sorts,  the  foil  owing  are  in  greatest  esteem  :  1. 
The  oblong,  or  Pear  Quince,  with  ovate  leaves,  and  an  oblong 
fruit  lengthened  at  the  base.  2.  The  Apple  Quince,  with  ovate 
leaves,  and  a  rounder  fruit.  3.  The  Portugal  Quince,  the  fruii 
of  which  is  more  juicy  and  less  harsh  than  the  preceding,  and 
therefore  the  most  valuable.  It  is  rather  a  shy  bearer,  but  is 
highly  esteemed,  as  the  pulp  has  the  property  of  assuming  a 
fine  purple  tint  in  the  course  of  being  prepared  as  a  marmalade. 
4.  The  mild  or  eatable  Quince,  being  less  austere  and  astringent 
than  the  others.  5.  The  Orange  Quince,  a  very  handsome 
fruit  of  peculiar  rich  flavor.  6.  The  Musk  or  Pineapple 
Quince,  very  large  and  beautiful. 

The  Quince  produces  the  finest  fruit  when  planted  in  a  soft, 
moist  soil,  and  rather  shady,  or  at  least  sheltered  situation.  It 
is  generally  propagated  by  layers,  and  also  by  cuttings,  and 
approved  sorts  may  be  perpetuated  by  grafting.  In  propagat- 
ing for  stocks,  nothing  more  is  necessary  than  to  remove  the 
lower  shoots  from  the  layer,  so  as  to  preserve  a  clear  stem  as 
high  as  the  graft ;  but  for  fruit-bearing  trees,  it  is  necessary  to 
train  the  stem  to  a  rod,  till  it  has  attained  four  or  five  feet  in 
height,  and  can  support  itself  upright. 


190  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

When  planted  in  an  orchard,  the  trees  may  be  placed  ten  or 
twelve  feet  apart.  The  time  of  planting,  the  mode  of  bearing, 
and  all  the  other  particulars  of  culture,  are  the  same  as  for  the 
Apple  and  Pear.  The  chief  pruning  they  require,  is  to  keep 
them  free  from  suckers,  and  cut  out  decayed  wood.  The 
ground  should  be  kept  free  from  grass  and  weeds ;  and  if  the 
soil  be  poor,  swine  manure,  chip  dirt,  or  any  other  kinds  of 
rich  manure  should  be  forked  into  the  ground  around  the  trees. 
If  the  soil  be  heavy,  containing  a  large  proportion  of  clay,  let 
a  load  of  sand  or  fine  gravel  be  spread  around  each  tree,  or 
mingled  with  the  earth  before  the  trees  are  transplanted. 


RASPBERRY.     FRAMBOISIER.     Rubus. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Rubus  found  wild  in  various 
parts  of  Asia,  Europe,  and  America,  some  of  which  have  up- 
right stems,  others  prostrate.  The  American  Stone  Bramble, 
and  also  the  common  Blackberry,  Dewberry,  and  Cloudberry, 
are  of  this  family.  The  Rubus  idceus,  or  common  Raspberry, 
grows  spontaneously  in  the  province  of  New  Brunswick,  and 
in  various  parts  of  the  United  States,  but  most  of  the  cultivated 
varieties  are  supposed  to  have  originated  in  England.  Loudon 
describes  the  true  Raspberry  as  having  "  steins  which  are 
suffruticpse,  upright,  rising  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  and 
are  biennial  in  duration ;  but  the  root  is  perennial,  producing 
suckers  which  ripen  and  drop  their  leaves  one  year,  and  resume 
their  foliage,  produce  blossom  shoots,  flower,  and  fruit,  and  die 
the  next.  The  leaves  are  quinate-pinnate ;  the  flowers  come 
in  panicles  from  the  extremity  of  the  present  year's  shoots; 
they  are  white,  appear  in  May  and  June,  and  the  fruit  forms 
about  a  fortnight  afterwards." 

The  fruit  is  grateful  to  most  palates,  as  nature  presents  it, 
but  sugar  improves  the  flavor ;  accordingly  it  is  much  esteemed 
•when  made  into  sweetmeats,  and  for  jams,  tarts,  and  sauces. 


FRUIT-GARDENIXG.  191 

It  is  fragrant,  sub-acid,  and  cooling ;  allays  heat  and  thirst.  It 
is  much  used  in  distilling.  "  Raspberry  syrup  is  next  to  the 
Strawberry  in  dissolving  the  tartar  of  the  teeth ;  and  as,  like 
that  fruit  it  (Joes  not  undergo  the  acetous  fermentation  in  the 
stomach,  it  is  recommended  to  gouty  and  rheumatic  patients." 
Nichol  enumerates  twenty-three  species  and  varieties  of  the 
cultivated  Raspberry,  and  twenty-one  of  the  Rubus  ronce,  or 
Bramble;  in  the  latter  are  included  the  American  Red  and 
Black  Raspberry,  the  Long  Island  and  Virginian  Raspberry ; 
also  the  Ohio  Ever-Bearing,  and  the  Pennsylvania  Raspberry. 
The  English  varieties  are,  Early  Small  White ;  Large  White ; 
Large  Red ;  most  Large  Red  Antwerp ;  Large  Yellow  Ant- 
werp ;  Cane,  or  smooth-stalked ;  Twice-bearing  White ;  Twice- 
bearing  Red ;  Smooth  Cane,  twice-bearing ;  Woodward's  Rasp- 
berry ;  Monthly,  or  Four  Season ;  Dwarf  Red  Cane ;  Victoria 
Raspberry;  Large  Red  Franconia;  Mason's  Red  Cluster; 
McKeon's  Scarlet  Prolific;  Chili  Red;  Cornish  Red;  Cox's 
Honey;  Brentford  Red;  Brentford  White;  Flesh-colored; 
Barnet  Red;  Bromley  Hill;  Cretan  Red;  Prolific  Red; 
Canada  Purple ;  Rose-flowering,  etc. 

HOW   RASPBERRIES    ARE    PROPAGATED. 

The  varieties  can  be  perpetuated  by  young  sucker-shoots, 
rising  plenteously  from  the  root  in  spring  and  summer. 
When  these  have  completed  one  season's  growth,  they  are 
proper  to  detach  with  roots  for  planting,  either  in  the  autumn 
of  the  same  year,  or  the  next  spring,  in  March  or  early  in 
April.  These  new  plants  will  bear  some  fruit  the  first  year, 
and  furnish  a  succession  of  strong  bottom-shoots  for  full  bear- 
ing the  second  season.  New  varieties  are  raised  from  seed, 
and  they  come  into  bearing  the  second  year.  Some  of  the 
American  species  are  cultivated  by  layers,  which  produce  fruit 
the  same  year. 

Raspberry  beds  are  in  their  prime  about  the  third  and 
fourth  year ;  and,  if  well  managed,  continue  in  perfection  five 
or  six  years,  after  which  they  are  apt  te  decline  in  growth, 


1 92  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

and  the  fruit  to  become  small,  so  tliat  a  successive  plantation 
should  be  provided  in  time.  Select  new  plants  from  vigorous 
stools  in  full  perfection  as  to  bearing.  Be  careful  to  favor  the 
twice-bearers  with  a  good  mellow  soil,  in  a  sheltered  situation, 
in  order  that  the  second  crop  may  come  to  perfection. 

When  Raspberries  are  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,  it  is  best 
to  plant  them  in  beds  by  themselves,  in  rows  from  five  to  seven 
feet  apart,  according  to  the  kinds.  In  small  gardens  they  may 
be  planted  in  detached  stools,  or  in  single  rows  in  different 
parts  of  the  garden,  from  the  most  sunny  to  the  most  shady 
aspect,  for  early  and  late  fruit  of  improved  growth  and  flavor. 
It  is  requisite  to  cut  out  the  dead  stems  early  in  the  spring, 
and  to  thin  and  regulate  the  successional  young  shoots.  At 
the  same  time,  the  shoots  retained  should  be  pruned  at  the 
top,  below  the  weak  bending  part,  and  some  rotten  dung 
worked  in  around  the  roots  of  the  plants.  Keep  them  clear 
of  weeds  during  the  summer,  by  hoeing  between  the  rows,  and 
eradicate  all  superfluous  suckers ;  but  be  careful  to  retain  enough 
for  stock  in  succeeding  years. 

The  Antwerp  and  other  tender  varieties  of  the  Raspberry 
are  liable  to  be  more  or  less  injured  by  the  severity  of  our 
winters ;  to  prevent  which,  they  should  be  protected  by  bend- 
ing them  down  to  the  ground  late  in  autumn,  and  covering 
them  with  earth  five  or  six  inches,  sloping  it  off  so  as  to  pre- 
vent injury  from  rain  or  snow. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  good  supply  of  Raspberries  in  the 
autumn,  cut  down  some  of  the  twice-bearing  varieties  close  to 
the  ground,  which  will  occasion  strong  suckers  to  shoot  up, 
that  will  yield  an  abundant  crop  of  fruit  at  a  season  when 
other  varieties  are  not  attainable. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  RASPBERRIES. 

AMERICAN  BLACK,  Black   Cap.     This  fruit  is  of  smallish 
size,  and  ripens  in  June  and  July.     It  is  a  favorite  with  some. 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


193 


AMERICAN  RED,  English  Red,  Common  Red.  This  variety 
is  much  cultivated  for  the  market.  The  fruit  ripens  in  June 
and  July  successively. 

ANTWERP  RED,  Large  Red  Antwerp,  Rowland's  Red  Ant- 
werp, Burley.  This  species  is  rather  tender,  on  which  account 


The  Eed  Antwerp  Raspberry. 


the  branches  must  be  bent  down  in  autumn,  and  covered  with 
soil.  The  fruit  is  large  and  beautiful,  of  delicious  flavor,  and 
quite*  fragrant ;  in  June  and  July. 

ANTWERP  WHITE,  Yellow  Antwerp.  This  is  also  tender  or 
half  hardy,  but  very  prolific ;  the  fruit  is  large,  of  a  pale  yellow 
color,  and  much  esteemed.  It  ripens  in  June*  and  July. 

BARNET,    Cornwallis  Prolific,  Lord  Exmouth,  Large  Red. 


194  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

This  is  considered  a  first-rate  fruit,  and  yields  abundantly ;  in 
June  and  July. 

BEEHIVE.  A  new  variety,  introduced  by  Messrs.  Winter 
&  Co.,  of  the  Linnsean  Botanic  Garden,  Flushing.  The  fruit  is 
large,  of  round  shape  and  red  color ;  ripe  in  July. 

CORNISH,  Large  Cornish.  A  hardy  and  highly  productive 
variety,  yielding  an  abundance  of  red  berries  in  June  and 
July. 

DOUBLE-BEARING  RED,  Twice-Bearing.  This  species  is 
very  prolific,  producing  its  first  crop  in  July,  and  another  in 
October. 

FLESH-COLORED,  Framboisier  Couleur  de  Chair.  A  new 
variety,  imported  by  W.  R.  Prince  &  Co.  from  France.  It  is 
described  as  a  highly  flavored  and  much-esteemed  fruit. 

FRANC  ONIA,  Red  Franconm.  This  variety  is  in  great  repute 
for  its  productiveness  and  the  fineness  of  its  fruit,  which  ripens 
gradually  in  July. 

MONTHLY  OR  FOUR  SEASONS,  Perpetual  Bearing.  This 
species,  if  planted  in  a  shady  situation,  will  produce  succes- 
sional  crops  throughout  the  summer. 

RED  TALL  CANE.  There  are  several  species  of  the  Cane 
Raspberry,  some  of  which  are  worthless.  The  Tall  Red  Cane 
produces  fine  fruit  in  July  and  August,  and  very  frequently  in 
autumn. 

VICTORIA.  This  Queen  of  Raspberries  has  been  imported 
by  W.  R.  Prince,  and  plants  are  offered  for  sale  at  his  nursery 
at  Flushing,  for  twenty-five  cents  each. 


BLACKBERRIES. 

This  Mnd  of  fruit  requires  about  the  same  kind  of  manage- 
ment that  is  essential  to  raise  good  raspberries.  Clean  cultiva- 
tion and  rich  ground,  with  all  the  old  canes  removed  annually, 
will  seldom  fail  tb  secure  a  bountiful  crop.  The  illustrations 
of  different  varieties  are  not  overdrawn  as  to  size.  Indeed,  in 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  105 

many  instances,  the  fruit  grows  larger  than  it  is  here  represented. 
It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  order  to  raise  large  berries, 
the  soil  must  be  worked  deep  and  enriched  with  the  best  kind 


The  High-bush  Blackberry. 

of  fertilizing  material,  and  the  surface  mulched  in  hot  weather. 
Blackberry  bushes  should  be  kept  as  clean  of  grass  and  weeds 
as  growing  corn  or  cabbage. 

The  Kittatinny  Blackberry  was  originated  by  E.  Williams, 
Montclair,  New  Jersey,  and  sustains  the  reputation  of  being 
one  of  the  best,  and  with  some  fruit  culturists  the  very  best, 
blackberry  in  the  country.  It  is  a  great  bearer,  endures  our 
cold  winters  well,  and  sells  quickly  in  market.  We  consider 
it  superior  to  the  celebrated  New  Rochelle  Blackberry  either 
for  the  table  or  for  market 


196 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


FRUIT-GARDENING. 


197 


STRAWBERRY.     FRAISIER.     Fragaria. 

The  Cherry,  the  Currcmt,  and  Strawberry  red, 

To  the  rich  and  the  poor  their  refreshments  have  shed  ; 

Pomona  has  scatter'd  her  blessings  abroad, 

The  full-bearing  branches  bend  down  with  their  load. 

This  is  a  genus  of  fruit-bearing  herbaceous  plants,  of  which 
there  are  few  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  that  can  equal  the  Straw- 


Wilson's  Albany  Strawberry. 


berry  in  wholesomeness  and  excellence.     The  fruit  is  supposed 
to  receive  its  name  from  the  ancient  practice  of  laying  straw 


198  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

between  the  rows,  which  keeps  the  ground  moist  and  the  fruit 
clean.  They  are  natives  of  temperate,  or  cold  climates,  as  of 
Europe  and  America.  The  fruit,  though  termed  a  berry,  is  in 
botanical  language  a  fleshy  receptacle,  studded  with  seeds.  It 
is  universally  grateful,  alone  or  with  sugar,  cream,  or  wine,  and 
has  the  property,  so  valuable  for  acid  stomachs,  of  not  undergo- 
ing the  acetous  fermentation.  Physicians  concur  in  placing 
Strawberries  in  their  small  catalogue  of  pleasant  remedies ;  as 
having  properties  which  render  them  in  most  conditions  of  the 
animal  frame  positively  salutary.  They  dissolve  the  tartareous 
incrustations  of  the  teeth,  and  promote  perspiration.  Persons 
afflicted  with  the  gout  have  found  relief  from  using  them  very 
largely ;  so  have  patients  in  case  of  the  stone ;  and  Hoffman 
states  that  he  has  known  consumptive  people  cured  by  them. 
The  bark  of  the  root  is  astringent. 

CULTIVATION    AND    MANAGEMENT. 

In  cultivating  the  Strawberry  an  open  situation  and  rich  loamy 
soil,  rather  strong,  are  required  for  most  varieties ;  and  from 
their  large  mass  of  foliage  and  flowers,  they  must,  till  the  fruit 
is  set,  have  copious  supplies  of  water.  The  row  culture  is  best 
calculated  to  produce  fruit ;  and  frequent  renewal  insures 
vigorous  plants  as  well  as  large  fruit.  Some  plant  them  in 
single  rows,  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart,  according 
to  the  sorts.  Others  form  a  bed  with  four  rows.  If  several 
beds  be  intended,  a  space  of  two  or  three  feet  may  be  left 
between  each  bed  as  a  path ;  and  in  the  second  or  third  season 
the  paths  may  be  manured  and  dug,  to  admit  the  runners  taking 
root.  By  this  means  a  renewal  may  be  made  so  often ;  and 
the  old  stools  being  taken  away,  leave  spaces  between  the  beds 
as. before.  Or  new  plantations  may  be  made  every  season; 
because,  after  the  roots  are  fairly  established,  they  multiply 
spontaneously,  as  well  by  suckers  from  the  parent  stem  as  by 
numerous  runners ;  all  of  which,  rooting  and  forming  a  plant  at 
every  joint,  require  only  removal  to  a  spot  where  there  is  room 
for  them  to  flourish.  If  the  runners  be  taken  off,  and  planted 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  199 

smal  A  native  of  Britain.  Some  of  the  varieties  are  in 
in  August  and  September,  they  will  produce  fine  fruit  the  follow- 
ing season,  and  will  bear  in  full  perfection  the  second  summer. 
Some,  however,  prefer  spring  planting,  which  answers  very  well 
if  done  in  damp  weather. 

A  plantation  of  the  Alpine  yields  fruit  the  same  year  that 
it  is  made.  The  Wood  and  the  Alpine  are  often  cultivated 
from  seed,  which  generally  produces  fine  fruit.  The  other 
species  are  uniformly  propagated  by  offsets,  except  the  intention 
be  to  try  for  new  varieties.  The  Alpine  and  Wood  species 
may  be  planted  in  situations  rather  cool  and  shady,  in  order 
that  they  may  produce  their  fruit  late  in  the  season,  which  is 
desirable.  The  Strawberry,  with  a  little  trouble  of  choosing 
a  succession  of  sorts,  may  be  forced  so  as  to  be  had  at  the  dessert 
every  month  in  the  year ;  though  during  the  winter  months 
it  has  not  much  flavor. 

Some  gardeners  lay  straw  an  inch  or  two  thick  over  their 
beds  in  March,  and  set  fire  to  it,  in  order  to  promote  a  stocky 
growth  of  plants  and  early  fruit ;  others  recommend  mowing 
off  the  tops  of  such  as  are  not  required  to  fruit  early,  while 
they  are  in  blossom,  with  a  view  to  obtain  a  crop  of  Straw- 
berries late  in  the  season. 

The  London  Horticultural  Catalogue  contains  the  names  of 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  varieties  of  all  the  species,  which 
are  classed  according  to  their  nature,  color,  etc.  Class  1. 
Scarlet  Strawberries;  2.  Black  Strawberries;  3.  Pine  Straw- 
berries ;  4.  Chili  Strawberries ;  5.  Hautbois  Strawberries ; 
6.  Green  Strawberries.  7.  Alpine  and  Wood  Strawberries. 
To  select  all  the  most  esteemed  from  this,  or  any  other  exten- 
sive catalogue,  is  a  difficult  task.  The  following  description  of 
species  and  varieties  may  serve  to  direct  the  choice. 

SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  STRAWBERRIES. 

THE  WOOD  STRAWBERRY,  Fragaria  vesca,  with  oval  serrated 
leaves;  the  fruit  red,  white,  and  green,  which  is  round  and 


200  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

great  repute,  as  they  are  very  productive  and  continue  long  in 
bearing. 


Triomphe  de  Gande. 

THE  SCARLET.  Fragaria  Virginiana,  with  leaves  like  the 
preceding;  the  fruit  roundish  and  scarlet-colored.  A  native 
of  Virginia.  Varieties — Methven  Scarlet,  Knight's  Scarlet, 
Austrian  Scarlet,  Early  Scarlet,  Wilmot's  Late,  Common  Late, 
Wilmot's  Early  Scarlet,  etc. 

THE  ROSEBERRY,  Fragaria,  Virg.  Var.  An  Aberdeen  seed- 
ling, introduced  in  1810.  The  plants  have  few  roundish  leaves, 
larger  fruit  than  the  scarlet,  and  are  very  prolific ;  continues 
bearing  till  August. 

THE  BLACK  Var.  Downton.  Dark  Scarlet  Strawberry,  origi- 
nated by  Mr.  Knight.  The  fruit  is  large,  irregular,  and  cock's- 
comb-like ;  plant  hardy  and  prolific. 

THE  CAROLINA  Fragaria  Carolinensis.  Color  dark  red ;  a 
native  of  America.  There  are  several  choice  varieties  of  this 
fruit,  as — Elton's  Seedling,  Keen's  Seedling,  Mulberry,  Wil- 
mot's Black  Imperial,  Blood  Pine,  North's  Seedling,  Knevet's 
Seedling,  etc. 

THE  MUSKY,  OR  HAUTBOIS,  Fragaria  elatio,  with  oval,  rough, 
javelin-edged  leaves.  A  native  of  Britain.  Varieties — Black 
Hautbois,  White  Hautbois,  Globe  Hautbois,  Conical  Hautbois, 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  201 

Double  or  Twice  Bearing,  producing  delicious  fruit  in  spring 
and  autumn. 

THE  CHILI,  Fragaria  Chiliensis,  with  large,  oval,  thick,  hairy 
leaves,  and  large  flowers ;  the  fruit  large  and  very  firm ;  a 
native  of  South  America.  Wilmot's  Superb,  or  Large  Cock's- 
comb  Scarlet,  Knight's  Seedling  and  Greenwell's  New  Giant, 
are  highly  esteemed  varieties. 

KEEN'S  IMPERIAL  OR  NEW  CHILI,  Fragaria  Chili  var.,  raised 
by  Mr.  Keen,  of  Isleworth  ;  a  most  excellent  bearer,  ripening 
early.  The  fruit  is  very  large,  the  flesh  firm  and  solid,  with- 
out any  separate  core ;  color  scarlet. 

THE  ALPINE  OR  PROLIFIC,  Fragaria  Collina,  commonly  lasts 
from  June  till  November,  and  in  mild  seasons  till  near  Christ- 
mas ;  the  varieties  of  this  fruit  are  red  and  white.  Natives  of 
the  Alps  of  Europe. 

THE  ONE-LEAVED,  Fragaria  monophylla.  The  pulp  of  the 
fruit  pink-colored.  A  native  of  South  America. 

The  following  varieties  have  been  lately  propagated  from 
some  of  the  above  species  : — 

BISHOP'S  ORANGE,  Bishop's  Globe,  Bishop's  New.  Fruit 
large,  of  roundish  or  conical  form ;  orange-scarlet  color,  and  very 
delicious  flavor ;  ripe  early  in  July. 

GARNSTONE  SCARLET.  A  fine,  highly  esteemed  scarlet  variety, 
of  large  size,  roundish  form,  and  peculiarly  rich  flavor,  which 
ripens  early  in  June. 

ELTON,  Elton  Pine  Strawberry.  Fruit  very  large;  form 
heart-shaped,  or  obtusely  conical;  color  bright  dark-scarlet; 
rosy  red ;  flavor  very  rich,  spicy,  aromatic,  and  agreeable.  A 
beautiful  drawing  of  this  fruit  is  given  in  "  Sony's  Orchard- 
ist's  Companion,''  from  which  the  above  description  was  taken. 

GROVE  END  SCARLET,  Atkinson's  Scarlet.  A  Seedling  raised 
by  Wm.  Atkinson,  at  Grove  End,  Marylebone,  in  1820;  fruit 
large,  oblate,  of  a  bright  vermilion  color,  and  rich  flavor ;  ripe 
by  the  middle  of  June. 

HOVEY'S   SEEDLING.      This  favorite  variety  was  raised  by 

Messrs.  Hovey  &  Co.  of  Boston,  in  1834.     Fruit  very  large  ; 

9* 


FRUIT-GARDENING 


form  round  or  slightly  ovate,  conical ;  color  deep  shining  red, 
paler  in  the  shade ;  flesh  scarlet  and  firm,  abounding  in  an 
agreeable  acid  and  high-flavored  juice ;  not  surpassed  by  any 
other  variety ;  ripe  early  in  July. 


Scott's  Seedling. 

HUDSON'S  BAY,  American  Scarlet,  Velvet  Scarlet,  Large 
Hudson.  Fruit  large,  of  ovate  form ;  represented  by  Mr 
Downing  as  the  best  for  market ;  early  in  July. 

MONTHLY  RED  ALPINE.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  and  conical. 
Continues  bearing  fruit  moderately  from  June  till  winter. 

MYATT'S  BRITISH  QUEEN.  The  fruit  of  this  celebrated 
variety  is  said  to  be  of  monstrous  size  ;  in  form  roundish,  and 
in  quality  first-rate  ;  about  the  middle  of  July. 

MYATT'S  PINE.  A  medium-sized  fruit  of  ovate  form,  and  very 
rich-flavored  ;  ripening  in  July. 

PRINCE  ALBERT.  A  new  variety  raised  in  London,  represent- 
ed us  a  large  fruit  of  ovate  form,  very  splendid  in  appearance  and 
delicious  in  flavor ;  ripe  in  July. 

PRINCE'S  NEW  PINE.  An  excellent  seedling  variety  of  large 
size  and  ovate  form.  Raised  by  Wm.  R.  Prince,  of  Flushing ; 
ripe  early  in  July. 

ROSEBERRY  MONTEVIDEO,  Montevideo   Early   Scarlet.     An 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  203 

improved  American  Seedling,  from  the  common  Rosebeny : 
of  large  size,  conical  form,  and  fine  flavor ;   ripe  early  in  July. 

SWAINSTONE'S  SEEDLING.  This  variety  is  described  as 
large,  ovate,  and  of  the  very  first  quality,  ripening  one  crop 
early  in  June,  and  a  second  crop  in  autumn. 


Trolloppe's  Victoria. 

VICTORIA,  Higgles  Seedling.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is 
greatly  esteemed ;  it  is  extra  large,  of  roundish  form,  and 
exquisite  flavor ;  early  in  July. 

WARREN'S  SEEDLING,  Warren's  Metkven.  This  is  represent- 
ed as  a  peculiar  fruit,  being  of  large  size,  and  in  form  nearly 
flat ;  it  is  moreover  of  a  rich  pineapple  flavor,  and  yields  abun- 
dantly throughout  the  month  of  July. 

WHITE  BUSH  ALPINE,  Hew  White  Alpine  A  medium-sized 
berry,  of  ovate  form  and  agreeable  flavor ;  the  plant  has  no 
runners,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  June  and  July. 


WALNUT.     NOYER.    Juglans. 

From  the  circumstance  of  our  having  an  abundance  of  the 
fruit,  and  from  the  many  species  of  this  genus  of  trees  growing 
spontaneously  around  us,  it  is  presumed  that  the  culture  of  the 


204  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

Juglans  regia,  commonly  called  English  Walnut,  o/  Madeira 
Nut,  has  been  neglected  by  many  of  our  citizens.  It  is  a  native 
of  Persia,  and  is  cultivated  in  France,  England,  and  in  other 
parts  of  Europe,  both  as  a  fruit  and  timber  tree.  The  fruit,  in 
England,  is  much  used  in  a  green  state  for  pickling,  and  also 
as  an  adulteration  of  soy  sauce.  In  France,  an  oil,  which  sup- 
plies the  place  of  that  of  Almonds,  is  made  from  the  kernel. 
In  Spain,  they  strew  the  gratings  of  old  and  hard  nuts,  first 
peeled,  into  their  tarts  and  other  meats.  The  leaves  strewed 
on  the  ground,  and  left  there,  annoy  moles ;  or  macerated  in 
warm  water,  afford  a  liquor  which  will  destroy  them.  The 
unripe  fruit  is  used  in  medicine  for  the  purpose  of  destroying 
worms  in  the  human  body.  Pliny  says :  "  The  more  Walnuts 
one  eats,  with  the  more  ease  will  he  drive  worms  out  of  the 
stomach." 

The  timber  is  considered  lighter,  in  proportion  to  its  strength 
and  elasticity,  than  any  other,  and  therefore  commonly  used 
in  England  for  gun-stocks.  It  is  used  in  cabinet  work  in  most 
parts  of  Europe.  The  young  timber  is  allowed  to  make  the 
finest  colored  work,  but  the  .old  to  be  finest  variegated  for 
ornament.  When  propagated  for  timber,  the  nut  is  sown ; 
but  when  fruit  is  the  object,  inarching  from  the  branches  of 
fruit-bearing  trees  is  preferable.  Budding  is  also  practised  by 
some.  The  buds  succeed  best  when  taken  from  the  base  of 
the  annual  shoots.  Ordinary-sized  buds  from  the  upper  part 
of  such  shoots  generally  fail. 

Walnut-trees  that  have  not  been  grafted  or  budded  may  be 
induced  to  produce  blossoms  by  ringing  the  bark,  that  is,  cut- 
ting out  a  streak  of  the  bark  around  the  body  or  main  branches 
of  the  tree.  Walnut-trees  seldom  yield  much  fruit  until  fif- 
teen or  twenty  years  old.  The  nuts  are  produced  on  the 
extremities  of  the  preceding  year's  shoots.  The  trees  should 
sta  ;d  forty  or  fifty  feet  apart,  and  be  permitted  to  branch  out 
iu  their  natural  order.  They  nped  but  little  pruning,  merely 
to  regulate  any  casual  disorderly  growth,  to  reduce  over-ex- 
tended branches,  and  to  prune  up  the  low  stragglers. 


FRUIT-GARDENING.  205 

Lest  any  of  our  native  Walnuts  should  be  neglected  or  aban- 
doned by  any,  I  annex  a  description  of  the  different  kinds : 

Juglans  catharticus  is  known  under  the  name  of  Butternut, 
Oilnut,  and  White  Walnut ;  these  nuts  are  used  by  the  Indians 
as  a  medicine. 

Juglans  nigra,  the  Black  Walnut,  is  a  tree  of  large  size ;  its 
fruit  is  known  to  be  excellent. 

Juglans  olivceformis,  Pecan,  or  Illinois  nut,  is  delicious.  The 
nuts  of  Juglans  sulcata,  which  is  called  Thick  Shell-bark  Hick- 
ory, and  Springfield,  and  Gloucester  nut,  are  large  and  well 
tasted.  The  Shell-bark  Hickory,  shag-bark,  or  scaly-bark 
Hickory,  Juglans  alba,  is  so  called  on  account  of  its  bark, 
which  is  torn  lengthwise  in  long  loose  strips,  as  in  Juglans 
sulcata.  The  Juglans  tomentosa,  the  Mucker  nut,  White-heart 
Hickory,  or  common  Hickory,  and  most  of  the  other  kinds 
enumerated,  are  worth  cultivating  where  there  is  none,  for 
timber  for  mechanical  purposes ;  and  that  of  the  Juglans  glabra, 
or  Hog  nut,  is  useful  for  making  the  old-fashioned  splint-brooms. 


HOW    TO    PROPAGATE. 

Any  or  all  of  the  foregoing  nuts  may  be  made  to  vegetate 
by  planting  them  late  in  autumn  in  a  well  prepared  soil  free 
from  superabundant  moisture,  and  covered  with  about  one  inch 
in  depth  qf  firm  mould.  When  the  young  trees  are  three  or 
four  years  old  they  may  be  transplanted  where  they  are  to  pro- 
duce fruit.  In  some  localities  White  Walnuts  will  succeed  well, 
and  the  trees  will  yield  fruit  in  ten  to  fifteen  years ;  while  in 
other  parts  of  the  country,  or  in  an  uncongenial  soil,  all  efforts 
to  make  any  of  the  species  of  the  Juglans  productive  will 
prove  ineffectual. 

Mr.  Bridgeman  alludes  to  grafting  the  Juglans.  I  have 
heard  others  speak  of  grafting  .Walnut-trees,  and  I  have  seen 
it  performed,  but  have  never  known  a  scion  to  grow,  nor  have 
I  ever  met  with  a  person  who  had  seen  a  living  graft  on  a 
Butternut,  or  Black  or  White  Walnut-tree.  I  have  raised 


206  FRUIT-GARDENING. 

Black  Walnut-trees  twenty  feet  high  in  eight  years,  all  of 
which  were  loaded  with  large  nuts  when  they  were  seven  years 
old.  Large  and  excellent  nuts  of  all  kinds  may  be  raised  by 
improved  cultivation,  as  well  as  different  kinds  of  fruit. 

REVISER. 


INDEX 


A. 

PAGE 

Apple-tree  borer 36 

Age  of  apple-trees 47 

Apple-trees — pruning  of. 49 

Apples — select  descriptive  list  of 49 

autumn  fruit 53 

winter  fruit B6 

Apricot — 63 

select  descriptive  list  of 65 

Almond .  78 


B. 

Budding  and  grafting  fruit-trees 18 

Bark  louse 36 

Blackberries...  ..194 


0. 

Cleft-grafting 21 

Curculio— checking  the  ravages  of 34 

Canker-worm ; 35 

Compost — ingredients  for 45 

Cider  fruit 62 

Cherry 67 

Cherry-trees — pruning  of. 69 

Cherries — select  descriptive  list  of 70 

heart-shaped  and  Bigarreaux 72 


208  INDEX. 

PACK 

Chestnut  — 76 

manner  of  propagating 77 

Cranberry. 79 

Currant — 80 

select  descriptive  list  of 83 

Clingstones  or  pavies 132 


F. 

Fruit-trees — selecting  of,  in  the  nursery 9 

Fruit — descriptive  list  of 11 

Fruit-trees — training  and  pruning  of 13 

Fruit-trees — pruning  of 16 

Fruit — procuring  improved  varieties  of. 27 

Fruit-trees — bisects  and  diseases 32 

wash  for 33 

Fruit-trees — scraping  of  their  bodies 46 

ringing  or  decortication  of 85 

Filbert  and  hazel-nut  .  .  86 


G. 

Grafting  and  budding  fruit-trees 18 

Grafting— 20 

cleft,  side,  splice  or  whip,  saddle,  root,  approach 21 

Grafting — clay  and  wax 25 

jelly  cement 27 

Gooseberry — 88 

red  varieties 89 

yellow. 89 

Gooseberries — how  to  propagate 90 

pruning  and  training 90 

Gooseberry  saw-fly 92 

Gooseberry  and  currant  worm — infallible  remedy  for 93 

Grape— 94 

vines — age  of 9f 

best  varieties  for  wine 101 

Grapes — soil  for  the  growing  of 101 

modes  of  propagation 102 

Grape-vines — training  of 103 

Grafting  grapes l  °3 


INDEX.  209 

PAGE 

Grapes     lative— select  descriptive  list  of. 105,  111 

foreign 106 

training  and  pruning  of  native 113 

laying  down  vines  in  winter 114 

preparation  of  soil  and  planting 115 

training  of,  on  wire  trellises 116 

influence  of  climate 118 

pinching  and  rubbing  off  buds 120 

horizontal  training  of 121 

thinning  of  the  green  fruit 122 

vines — rose-bugs  on 123 

H. 
Heeling-in  trees,  and  protecting  their  roots 42 

I. 

Insects  and  diseases  to  which  fruit-trees  are  liable 32 

L. 

List— descriptive,  of  fruit 11 

Lindley's  mode  of  cross-fertilization 30 

Lemon 133 

M. 

Mode — Lindley's,  of  cross-fertilization 30 

Mulberry— 124 

propagation  by  seeds 125 

layers 125 

fruit ....125 

paper 126 

wood,  value  of 127 

N. 

Nectarine — '. 127 

ill  effects  of  planting  too  deep 129 

Saltpetre  for 130 

propagation  by  budding 130 

select  descriptive  list  of 131 


210  INDEX. 


0. 


FAQS 

Orchard — situation  of 38 

Orchards — draining  of 39 

Orange 133 


P. 


Pruning — general  suggestions  about 31 

Pavies  or  clingstones 132 

Peach 134 

Peach-trees — budding  of 135 

cause  of  premature  decay. 136 

the  Yellows 13*7 

pruning  and  transplanting 139 

Peaches — descriptive  list  of. 140 

select  descriptive  list  of 148 

Pear—. 150 

characteristics  of  a  good 151 

propagation  of 151 

improvement  of  varieties 152 

Pears — select  descriptive  list  of 153 

Pears — autumn  fruit 156 

winter  fruit 165 

Perry  pears 169 

Pears — select  descriptive  list  of 170 

selecting  of,  as  adapted  to  localities 113 

fire-blight  and  mildew 173 

Pear-trees,  dwarf— management  of. 175 

Plums 176 

Plum-trees — management  of * 178 

Plums — select  descriptive  list  of. 178 


Q. 

Quince 189 


INDEX.  211 


PAGB 

Roots — heeling-in  trees  and  protection  of 42 

Raspberry — 190 

how  propagated 191 

select  descriptive  list  of 192 

S. 

Scallop-budding. 20 

Situation  of  an  orchard  and  the  soil 38 

Soil  of  an  orchard 38 

Soils — improving,  for  fruit-trees 40 

Soil — keeping  it  clean 44 

Situations — planting  in  protected 45 

Strawberry— 197 

cultivation  and  management  of 198 

select  descriptive  list  of 199 

T. 

Training  of  fruit-trees 17 

Tools — best  kind  for  pruning 18 

Time— the  best,  to  graft , 24 

Trees — how  to  transplant 40 

Transplanting  in  spring  versus  autumn 41 

V. 
Vines — training  and  pruning  of 13 

W. 

Wood-ashes — value  of,  for  fruit-trees 37 

Walnut— 203 

how  to  propagate 205 

T. 

Yellows— the..  ..137 


PA.RT    III 


FLOWER-GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  L 

INTRODUCTION. 

"  AWAKE  !  the  morning  shines,  and  the  fresh  field 
Calls  you :  ye  lose  the  prime,  to  mark  how  spring 
The  tended  plants,  how  blows  the  Citron  grove ; 
"What  drops  the  Myrrh,  and  what  the  balmy  Keed  ; 
How  Nature  paints  her  colors;  how  the  bee 
Sits  on  the  bloom,  extracting  liquid  sweets." 

How  delightful  is  this  fragrance !  It  is  distributed  in 
exquisite  proportion ;  neither  so  strong  as  to  oppress  the 
organs,  nor  so  faint  as  to  elude  them.  We  are  soon  cloyed  at 
a  sumptuous  banquet ;  but  this  pleasure  never  loses  its  poig- 
nancy, nor  palls  the  appetite.  This  balmy  entertainment  not 
only  regales  the  sense,  but  cheers  the  very  soul ;  and,  instead 
of  clogging,  elates  its  powers. 

"  The  soft  green  grass  is  growing 

O'er  meadow  and  o'er  dale ; 
The  silv'ry  founts  are  flowing 

Upon  the  verdant  vale ; 
The  pale  Snow-drop  is  springing 

To  greet  the  glowing  sun ; 
The  Primrose  sweet  is  flinging 

Perfume  the  fields  along; 
The  trees  are  in  their  blossom, 

The  birds  are  in  their  song  j 
As  Spring  upon  the  bosom 

Of  Nature's  borne  along. 
1* 


10  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

"  So  the  dawn  of  human  life 

Doth  green  and  verdant  spring ; 
It  doth  little  ween  the  strife — 
Like  the  Snow-drop  it  is  fair, 

And  like  the  Primrose  sweet, 
But  its  innocence  can't  scare 

The  blight  from  its  retreat." 

The  pious  Hervey,  in  his  Meditations  on  the  Flower-Garden, 
has  furnished  us  many  sublime  ideas  respecting  the  order, 
variety,  and  beauty  of  the  flower  tribe.  It  is  in  vain  to 
attempt  a  catalogue  of  those  amiable  gifts.  There  is  an  end- 
less multiplicity  of  their  characters,  yet  an  invariable  order  in 
their  approaches.  Every  month,  almost  every  week,  has  its 
peculiar  ornaments ;  not  servilely  copying  the  works  of  its 
predecessors,  but  forming,  still  forming,  and  still  executing, 
some  new  design ;  so  lavish  is  the  fancy,  yet  so  exact  is  the 
process  of  Nature.  Were  all  the  flower  tribe  to  exhibit  them- 
selves at  one  particular  season,  there  would  be  at  once  a  pro- 
miscuous throng,  and  at  once  a  total  privation. 

We  should  scarcely  have  an  opportunity  of  adverting  to  the 
dainty  qualities  of  half,  and  must  soon  lose  the  agreeable  com- 
pany of  them  all.  But  now,  since  every  species  has  a  separate 
post  to  occupy,  and  a  distinct  interval  for  appearing,  we  can 
take  a  leisurely  and  minute  survey  of  each  succeeding  set. 
We  can  view  and  review  their  forms,  enter  into  a  more  intimate 
acquaintance  with  their  charming  accomplishments,  and  receive 
all  those  pleasing  sensations  which  they  are  calculated  to  yield. 

Before  the  trees  have  ventured  to  unfold  their  leaves,  and 
while  the  icicles  are  pendent  on  our  houses,  the  Snow-drop 
breaks  her  way  through  the  frozen  soil,  fearless  of  danger.  Next 
peeps  out  the  Crocus,  but  cautiously  and  with  an  air  of 
timidity.  She  shuns  the  howling  blasts,  and  cleaves  closely  to 
her  humble  situation.  Nor  is  the  Violet  last  in  the  shining 
embassy  which,  with  all  the  embellishments  that  would  grace  a 
royal  garden,  condescends  to  line  our  borders,  and  bloom  at  the 
feet  of  briers.  Freely  she  distributes  the  bounty  of  her  emis- 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  11 

sive  sweets,  while  herself  retires  from  sight,  seeking  rathei  to 
administer  pleasure  than  to  win  admiration  ; — emblem,  expres- 
sive emblem,  of  those  modest  virtues  which  delight  to  bloom 
in  obscurity.  There  are  several  kinds  of  Violets,  but  the  fra- 
grant, both  blue  and  white,  are  the  earliest.  Shakspeare  com- 
pares an  exquisitely  sweet  strain  of  music  to  the  delicious  scent 
of  this  flower: 

"  Oh  I  it  came  o'er  my  ear  like  the  sweet  South, 
That  breathes  upon  a  bank  of  Yiolet, 
Stealing  and  giving  odor." 

The  devout  Hervey,  in  his  admonitions  to  those  who  indulge 
in  sloth,  has  thrown  out  the  following  sublime  ideas  :  What 
sweets  are  those  which  so  agreeably  salute  my  nostrils  ?  They 
are  the  breath  of  the  flowers,  the  incense  of  the  gardens.  How 
liberally  does  the  Jasmine  dispense  her  odoriferous  riches ! 
How  deliciously  has  the  Woodbine  embalmed  this  morning  walk ! 
The  air  is  all  perfume.  And  is  not  this  another  most  engaging 
argument  to  forsake  the  bed  of  sloth  ?  Who  would  be  involved 
in  senseless  slumbers,  while  so  many  breathing  sweets  invite  him 
to  a  feast  of  fragrancy,  especially  considering  that  the  advancing 
day  will  exhale  the  volatile  dainties  ?  A  fugitive  treat  they  are, 
prepared  only  for  the  wakeful  and  industrious.  Whereas,  when 
the  sluggard  lifts  his  heavy  eyes,  the  flowers  will  droop,  their 
fine  sweets  be  dissipated,  and,  instead  of  this  refreshing  humidi- 
ty, the  air  will  become  a  kind  of  liquid  fire. 

With  this  very  motive,  heightened  by  a  representation  of  the 
most  charming  pieces  of  morning  scenery,  the  parent  of  man- 
kind awakes  his  lovely  consort.  There  is  such  a  delicacy  in  the 
choice,  and  so  much  life  in  the  description  of  these  rural 
images,  that  I  cannot  excuse  myself  without  repeating  the 
whole  passage.  Whisper  it,  some  friendly  genius,  in  the  ear  of 
every  one  who  is  now  sunk  in  sleep,  and  lost  to  all  these  refined 
gratifications ! 

Our  subject  is  so  enchanting  that  we  had  inadvertently  wan- 
dered from  the  path  we  first  entered.  We  now  retrace  our 


12  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

steps,  and  take  a  glance  at  surrounding  objects.  The  fields  look 
green  with  the  springing  grass.  See  the  Daffodil  how  it  spreads 
itself  to  the  wind !  The  leaves  of  Honeysuckles  begin  to 
expand ;  the  Lilacs,  or  Syringas,  of  various  hues,  unfold  their 
buds.  The  Almond  exhibits  its  rosy  clusters,  and  the  Corcho- 
rus  its  golden  balls.  Many  of  the  lowlier  plants  exhibit  their 
yellow  and  purple  colors,  and  the  buds  of  Lilies,  and  other 
perennial  plants,  prepare  to  show  themselves.  If  we  turn  our 
attention  to  the  orchard,  we  behold  the  Apricots,  Nectarines,  and 
Peaches  lead  the  way  in  blossoming,  which  are  followed  by 
the  Cherry  and  the  Plum.  These  form  a  most  agreeable  specta- 
cle, as  well  on  account  of  their  beauty  as  of  the  promise  they 
give  of  future  benefits.  It  is,  however,  an  anxious  time  for  the 
possessor,  as  the  fairest  prospect  of  a  plentiful  increase  is  often 
blighted. 

Now  we  return  to  the  garden.  Before  we  have  time  to 
explore  Nature's  treasures,  many  flowers  disappear;  among 
which  are  the  humble  Daisy,  which  shrinks  from  the  intense 
heat,  and  the  several  varieties  of  Primulas,  or.  early  spring 
flowers.  The  various  grades  of  Polyanthus  deserve  a  close 
inspection.  These  for  awhile  exhibit  their  sparkling  beau- 
ties ;  but,  alas !  soon  disappear.  Scarcely  have  we  sustained 
this  loss,  but  in  comes  the  Auracula,  and  more  than  retrieves 
it.  She  comes  arrayed  in  a  splendid  variety  of  amiable  forms, 
with  an  eye  of  crystal,  and  garments  of  the  most  glossy  satin. 
A  very  distinguished  procession  this !  the  favorite  care  of  the 
florist,  which  soon  disappear. 

"  Fair-handed  Spring 

Throws  out  the  Snow-drop  and  the  Crocus  first, 
The  Daisy,  Primrose,  Violet  darkly  blue, 
And  Polyanthus  with  unnumbered  dyes. 
Then  comes  the  Auracula,  enriched  with  shining  meal, 
O'er  all  their  velvet  leaves." 

While  we  reluctantly  dispense  with  the  sweet  perfumes  of 
the  Hyacinth  and  Narcissus,  we  behold  the  Tulips  begin  to 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  13 

raise  themselves  on  their  fine  wands  or  stately  stalks.  They 
flush  the  parterre  with  one  of  the  gayest  dresses  that  bloom- 
ing Nature  wears.  Here  one  may  behold  the  innocent  wan- 
tonness of  beauty.  Here  she  indulges  a  thousand  freaks,  and 
sports  herself  in  the  most  charming  diversity  of  colors.  In  a 
grove  of  Tulips  or  a  bed  of  Pinks,  one  perceives  a  difference  in 
almost  every  individual.  Scarcely  any  two  are  turned  and 
tinted  exactly  alike.  What  colors,  what  colors  are  here  !  these 
so  nobly  bold,  and  those  so  delicately  languid ! 

What  a  glow  is  enkindled  in  some  !  what  a  gloss  shines 
upon  others !  With  what  a  masterly  skill  is  every  one  of  the 
varying  tints  disposed  !  Here  they  seem  to  be  thrown  on  with 
an  easy  dash  of  security  and  freedom  ;  there  they  are  adjusted 
by  the  nicest  touches  of  art  and  accuracy.  Those  colors 
which  form  the  ground  are  always  so  judiciously  chosen  as 
to  heighten  the  lustre  of  the  superadded  figures  ;  while  the 
verdure  of  the  impalement,  or  shadings  of  the  foliage,  im- 
part new  liveliness  to  the  whole.  Fine,  inimitably  fine,  is 
the  texture  of  the  web  on  which  these  shining  treasures  are 
displayed.  What  are  the  labors  of  the  Persian  looms  ;  what 
all  the  gay  attire  which  the  shuttle  or  the  needle  can  furnish, 
compared  with  Nature's  works  ?  One  cannot  forbear  reflec- 
tion in  this  place  on  the  too-prevailing  humor  of  being  fond 
and  ostentatious  of  dress.  What  an  abject  and  mistaken  am- 
bition is  this  !  How  unworthy  the  dignity  of  man,  and  the 
wisdom  of  rational  beings  !  Especially  since  these  little  pro- 
ductions of  the  earth  have  indisputably  the  preeminence  in  such 
outward  embellishments. 

"  Bright  TULIPS,  we  do  know, 

Ye  had  your  coming  hither, 
And  fading  time  doth  show, 
That  ye  must  quickly  wither. 

"  Tour  sisterhood  may  stay, 

And  smile  here  for  an  hour, 

But  ye  must  quickly  die  away, 

E'en  as  the  meanest  flower. 


14  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

"  Come,  virgins,  then,  and  see 

Your  frailties,  and  bemoan  ye ; 
For  lost  like  these — 'twill  be 
As  time  had  never  known  ye." 


But  let  us  not  forget  the  fragrant,  the  very  fragrant  Wall 
and  Gillyflowers  ;  some  of  these  regale  us  with  their  perfumes 
through  various  vicissitudes  and  alternations  of  the  season,  while 
others  make  a  transient  visit  only. 

In  favored  climates  the  Anemone  appears  encircled  at  the 
bottom  with  a  spreading  robe,  and  rounded  at  the  top  into  a 
beautiful  dome.  In  its  loosely  flowing  mantle,  you  may  ob- 
serve a  noble  negligence ;  in  its  gently  bending  tufts,  the  most 
exquisite  symmetry.  This  may  be  termed  the  fine  gentleman 
of  the  garden,  because  it  seems  to  possess  the  means  of  unit- 
ing simplicity  and  refinement,  of  reconciling  art  and  ease. 
The  same  month  has  the  merit  of  producing  the  Ranunculus. 
All  bold  and  graceful,  it  expands  the  riches  of  its  foliage,  and 
acquires  by  degrees  the  loveliest  enamel  in  the  world.  As  per- 
sons of  intrinsic  worth  disdain  the  superficial  arts  of  recom- 
mendation practised  by  fops,  so  this  lordly  flower  scorns  to 
borrow  any  of  its  excellences  from  powders  and  essences.  It 
needs  no  such  attractions  to  render  it  the  darling  of  the 
curious,  being  sufficiently  engaging  from  the  elegance  of  its 
figure,  the  radiant  variety  of  its  tinges,  and  a  certain  superior 
dignity  of  aspect. 

We  had  intended  to  confine  our  meditations  to  the  beauties  of 
April  and  May,  but  Nature  seems  to  improve  in  her  operations. 
Her  latest  strokes  are  the  most  masterly.  To  crown  the  col- 
lection, she  introduces  the  Carnation,  which  captivates  our 
eyes  with  a  noble  spread  of  graces,  and  charms  another  sense 
with  a  profusion  of  exquisite  odors.  This  single  flower  has 
centred  in  itself  the  perfection  of  all  the  preceding.  The 
moment  it  appears,  it  so  commands  our  attention  that  we 
scarcely  regret  the  absence  of  the  rest. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  1 5 

"  Maternal  Flora,  with  benignant  hand, 
Her  flowers  profusely  scatters  o'er  the  land ; 
These  deck  the  valleys  with  unnumbered  hues, 
And  far  around  their  pregnant  sweets  diffuse, 
The  broad  CARNATIONS,  gay  and  spotted  Pinks, 
Are  showered  profuse  along  the  rivers'  brinks." 

The  field  we  have  entered  is  so  extensive  and  so  enchant- 
ing that  we  cannot  extricate  ourselves  without  taking  a  cur- 
sory glance  at  the  airs  and  habits,  the  attitude  and  linea- 
ments, of  each  distinct  class.  See  the  Paeonia  of  China, 
splendid  and  beautifully  grand!  View  the  charming  Rose, 
delicate  and  languishingly  fair!  and  while  you  inhale  its 
balmy  sweetness,  you  will  be  constrained  to  admire  it,  not- 
withstanding its  thorny  appendages. 

"  Rose  I  thou  art  the  sweetest  flower 
That  ever  drank  the  amber  shower ; 
Rose  !  thou  art  the  fondest  child 
Of  dimpled  Spring !  the  wood-nymph  wild  I 
Resplendent  Rose  I  the  flower  of  flowers, 
Whose  breath  perfumes  Olympus'  bowers ; 
Whose  virgin  blush,  of  chasten'd  dye, 
Enchants  so  much  our  mental  eye." 

Behold  all  the  pomp  and  glory  of  the  parterre,  where  Nature's 
paint  and  perfumes  do  wonders.  Some  rear  their  heads  as 
with  a  majestic  mien,  and  overlook,  like  sovereigns  or  nobles, 
the  whole  parterre.  Others  seem  more  modest  in  their  aims, 
and  advance  only  to  the  middle  stations ;  a  genius  turned  for 
heraldry  might  term  them  the  gentry  of  the  border;  while 
others,  free  from  all  aspiring  airs,  creep  unambitiously  on  the 
ground,  and  appear  like  the  commonalty  of  their  species. 
Some  are  intersected  with  elegant  stripes  or  studded  with 
radiant  spots.  Some  affect  to  be  genteelly  powdered,  or  neatly 
fringed ;  while  others  are  plain  in  their  aspect,  unaffected  in 
their  dress,  and  content  to  please  with  a  naked  simplicity.  A 
few  assume  the  monarch's  purple,  or  are  arrayed  in  the  beconi- 


16  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

ing  robe  of  virgin  whiteness,  while  doleful  black  is  never  seen 
in  the  wardrobe  of  spring.  The  weeds  of  mourning  would  be 
a  manifest  indecorum  when  Nature  holds  a  universal  festival. 
She  would  now  inspire  none  but  delightful  ideas ;  and  there- 
fore always  makes  her  appearance  in  some  amiable  attire. 
Here  stands  a  warrior  clad  with  crimson.  There  sits  a  magis- 
trate robed  in  scarlet.  Yonder  a  pretty  flower  seems  to  have 
dipped  its  petals  in  the  rainbow,  and  glitters  in  all  the  gay 
colors  of  that  resplendent  arch.  Some  rise  into  a  curious  cut, 
or  fall  into  a  set  of  beautiful  bells.  Others  spread  themselves 
in  a  swelling  tuft,  or  crowd  into  a  delicious  cluster.  In  some 
the  predominant  stain  softens  by  the  gentlest  diminutions,  till 
it  has  even  stolen  away  from  itself.  The  eye  is  amused  at  the 
agreeable  delusion,  and  we  wonder  to  find  ourselves  insensibly 
decoyed  into  quite  a  different  lustre.  In  others  one  would 
think  the  fine  tinges  were  emulous  of  preeminence.  Disdaining 
to  mingle,  they  confront  one  another  with  the  resolution  of 
rivals,  determined  to  dispute  the  prize  of  beauty ;  while  each 
is  improved,  by  the  opposition,  into  the  highest  vivacity  of 
complexion. 

"  Mrs.  Paeony  came  in  quite  late  in  a  heat, 
With  the  Ice-plant,  dew-spangled  from  forehead  to  feet ; 
Lobelia,  attired  like  a  queen  ID  her  pride, 
And  Dahlias,  with  trimmings  new  furbish'd  and  dyed, 
And  the  Bluebells  and  Harebells  in  simple  array, 
With  all  their  Scotch  cousins  from  highland  and  brae, 
Bagged  Ladies  and  Marigolds  clustered  together, 
And  gossip'd  of  scandal,  the  news,  and  the  weather; 
What  dresses  were  worn  at  the  wedding  so  fine 
Of  sharp  Mrs.  Thistle  and  sweet  Columbine." 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  17 


OBSERVATIONS    ON  THE  FLOWER-GARDEN. 

"  If  you  would  have  a  vivid,  vigorous  breed 
Of  every  kind,  examine  well  the  seed  ; 
Learn  to  what  ELEMENTS  your  plants  belong, 
What  is  their  constitution,  weak  or  strong ; 
Be  their  physician,  careful  of  their  lives, 
And  see  that  every  species  daily  thrives  ; 
These  love  much  AIR  ;  those  on  much  HEAT  rely ; 
These,  without  genial  MOISTURE,  droop  and  die." 

Previous  to  forming  a  flower-garden,  the  ground  should  be 
made  mellow  and  rich,  by  being  well  pulverized,  manured,  and 
prepared  in  every  respect  as  if  intended  for  a  kitchen-garden. 
A  flower-garden  should  be  protected  from  cold  and  chilling 
winds  by  tight  fences,  or  plantations  of  shrubs,  forming  a  close 
and  compact  hedge,  which  should  be  neatly  trimmed  every 
year.  Generally  speaking,  a  flower-garden  should  not  be  on  a 
large  scale  ;  and  the  beds  or  borders  should  not  be  broader  in 
any  part  than  the  cultivator  can  reach  without  treading  on 
them.  The  shape  and  number  of  the  beds  must  be  determined 
by  the  quantity  of  the  ground  and  the  taste  of  the  person  lay- 
ing out  the  garden. 

Much  of  the  beauty  of  a  pleasure-garden  depends  on  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  laid  out.  A  great  variety  of  figures 
may  be  indulged  in  for  the  flower-beds.  Some  choose  oval  or 
circular  forms;  others  squares,  triangles,  hearts,  diamonds, 
intersected  with  winding  grass-paths  and  gravel-walks.  In  the 
design  of  an  ornamental  garden,  nature,  however,  should  be 
imitated  as  closely  as  practicable,  not  only  in  the  formation  and 
regulation  of  the  flower-beds,  but  in  the  adaptation  of  each 
species  to  its  peculiar  element,  soil,  and  situation ;  taking  into 
consideration  that  the  inmates  of  a  garden,  constituting  as  they 
do  a  mingled  group,  collected  from  all  the  different  climates 
and  soils  of  the  vegetable  creation,  require  each  its  most 
essential  aliment  to  promote  a  luxuriant  growth. 

A  flower-garden  should  be  so  situated  as  to  form  an  orna- 
mental appendage  to  the  house ;  and,  where  circumstances  wilJ 


18  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

admit,  it  should  be  located  before  the  windows  exposed  to  a 
southern  or  south-eastern  aspect.  The  principle  on  which  it  is 
laid  out  ought  to  be  that  of  exhibiting  a  variety  of  color  and 
form,  so  blended  as  to  produce  one  beautiful  whole.  In  a 
small  flower-garden,  viewed  from  the  windows  of  a  house,  this 
effect  is  best  produced  by  beds,  or  borders,  formed  side  by 
side,  and  parallel  to  the  windows  whence  they  are  seen,  as  in 
that  position  the  colors  show  to  the  best  advantage.  In  a 
retired  part  of  the  garden,  a  rustic  seat  may  be  formed,  over 
and  around  which  grape-vines,  or  honeysuckles,  and  other 
sweet  and  ornamental  creepers  and  climbers,  may  be  trained  on 
trellises,  which  will  afford  a  pleasant  rural  retreat. 

CONSTRUCTING    A    ROCKERY.      , 

In  extensive  pleasure-grounds  a  rockery,  formed  of  rough 
stones,  and  rich  light  soil,  may  be  erected  in  imitation  of  a 
mountain,  on  which  may  be  cultivated  various  plants  natives 
of  mountainous  districts,  and  such  indigenous  plants  as  are 
calculated  for  the  situation;  also  herbaceous  plants;  procum- 
bent and  trailing,  such  as  Mesembryanthemums,  Climbing  Cor- 
dydalis,  the  various  species  of  Silene  of  Catch-fly,  Gypsophila, 
Lotus,  Ricota  or  Syrian  Honesty,  Godetia,  etc.  These,  being 
interspersed  with  dwarf  plants  of  different  species,  as  Mountain 
Lychnis,  Violets,  Daisies,  etc.,  and  so  arranged  as  to  cover  a 
great  proportion  of  the  rocky  surface,  must  necessarily  produce 
a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Although  the  greatest  display  is  produced  by  a  general 
flower-garden — that  is,  by  cultivating  such  a  variety  in  one  bed 
or  border  as  will  insure  an  almost  constant  blooming — yet 
bulbous-rooted  plants,  though  essential  to  the  perfection  of 
the  flower-garden,  lose  something  of  their  peculiar  beauty 
when  not  cultivated  by  themselves.  The  extensive  variety  of 
bulbous  roots  furnishes  means  for  the  formation  of  a  garden, 
the  beauty  of  which,  arising  from  an  intermixture  of  every 
variety  of  form  and  color,  would  well  repay  the  trouble  of 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  19 

cultivation,  particularly  as,  by  a  judicious  selection  and  manage- 
ment, a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  kept  up  for  some  length  of 
time.  As,  however,  bulbous  flowers  lose  their  richest  tints 
about  the  time  that  annuals  begin  to  display  their  beauty, 
there  can  be  no  well  founded  objection  to  the  latter  being 
transplanted  into  the  bulbous  beds,  so  that  the  opening  blos- 
soms of  the  annuals  may  fill  the  place  of  those  just  withered, 
and  continue  to  supply  the  flower-beds  with  all  the  gaiety  and 
splendor  of  the  floral  kingdom. 

DELIGHTFUL    EMPLOYMENT    FOR    LADIES. 

The  cultivation  of  annual  flowers  is  a  delightful  employ- 
ment, and  well  adapted  to  the  amusement  of  a  lady,  who,  with 
the  assistance  of  a  laborer  to  prepare  the  ground,  may  turn  a 
barren  waste  into  a  beauteous  flower-garden  with  her  own 
hands.  Sowing  the  seed,  transplanting,  watering,  and  training 
the  plants,  tying  them  to  sticks  as  props,  leading  them  over 
trellis-work,  and  gathering  their  seed,  are  all  suitable  feminine 
occupations ;  and  from  their  affording  motives  for  exercise  in 
the  open  air,  they  contribute  greatly  to  health  and  tranquillity 
of  mind. 

But  the  taste  of  the  florist  will  be  exercised  to  little  purpose, 
in  the  selection  of  flowers,  if  strict  attention  is  not  paid  to  the 
general  state  of  the  garden.  If  there  are  lawns  or  grass-walks, 
they  should  be  frequently  trimmed,  and  more  frequently 
mowed  and  rolled,  to  prevent  the  grass  from  interfering  with 
the  flower-beds,  and  to  give  the  whole  a  neat,  regular,  carpet- 
like  appearance.  If  there  are  gravel-walks,  they  should  be 
frequently  cleaned,  replenished  with  fresh  gravel,  and  rolled. 
Box,  and  other  edgings,  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and 
neatly  trimmed  every  spring.  Decayed  plants  should  be 
removed,  and  replaced  by  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery-bed. 
Tall  flowering  plants  must  be  supported  by  neat  poles  or  rods ; 
and  all  dead  stalks  and  leaves  from  decayed  flowers  must  be 
frequently  removed.  Treatment  should  be  one  of  the  pre- 


20  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

dominating   characteristics   in   the   management  of  a   flower- 
garden. 

In  the  summer  season,  all  kinds  of  insects  must  be  timely 
destroyed,  and  in  the  evenings  of  warm  days  the  flowers  will 
require  frequent  watering. 

SELECTING  SOIL  ADAPTED  TO  FLOWERS. 

Some  seeds  germinate  in  two  or  three  days  after  having  been 
deposited  in  the  earth ;  others  will  exhibit  no  signs  of  vegeta- 
tion in  as  many  weeks.  These  and  other  distinguishing  fea- 
tures arise,  in  a  great  measure,  from  their  having  originated  in 
various  soils  and  climates.  Natives  of  cool  or  temperate 
climates  and  moist  soils  are  generally  tardy  in  germinating 
when  cultivated  in  a  warm  climate  and  dry  soil,  for  want  of  a 
due  share  of  their  most  essential  aliment,  MOISTURE  ;  and 
natives  of  warm  climates  and  light  soils  require  artificial  cul- 
ture in  cool  seasons  and  unpropitious  climates,  in  order  to 
their  being  accommodated  with  their  natural  and  most  import- 
ant aliment,  HEAT.  AIR  also  is  a  more  necessary  aliment  to 
some  species  than  to  others,  but  these  three  elements  collec- 
tively constitute  the  food  of  plants  in  general.  It  may  also  be 
observed  that  the  adaptation  of  plants  to  a  soil  congenial  to 
them  is  of  the  utmost  importance ;  as  plants  will  not  thrive 
well  when  their  roots  are  surrounded  by  improper  food. 

Under  favorable  circumstances,  annuals,  in  general,  will  pro- 
duce their  flower-buds  within  two  months  from  the  period  of 
sowing  the  seed.  Some  species,  soon  after  exhibiting  their 
brilliant  blossoms  and  ripening  their  seed,  disappear,  while 
others  embellish  the  borders  with  a  succession  of  flowers  for 
two  or  three  months.  An  assortment  of  seed  judiciously 
selected,  and  sown  in  due  season,  will  afford  amusement  to  the 
cultivator  the  greater  part  of  a  summer,  and  yield  seed  for 
the  propagation  of  the  species  in  succeeding  years,  if  gathered 
when  ripe,  and  carefully  preserved. 

Annual  plants  will  grow  from  one  to  four  feet  in  height,  in 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  21 

a  soil  of  uniform  character  and  situation ;  but  as  these  are 
diversified  in  almost  every  garden,  no  correct  conclusion  can 
be  drawn  in  this  particular.  An  attempt,  however,  has  been 
made,  in  the  annexed  Catalogue,  to  describe  the  various  species 
as  nearly  as  possible,  which  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  gar- 
dener in  planting;  the  most  dwarfish  being  adapted  to  the 
front  or  outer  edge  of  the  borders,  and  others  in  regular  gra- 
dation. 

Those  species  marked  thus  §  are  tender.  Those  marked 
thus  *  should  be  sown  in  the  spot  where  they  are  intended  to 
blossom,  as  they  are  apt  to  droop  and  die  by  being  trans- 
planted. Those  marked  thus  f ,  though  cultivated  as  annuals, 
from  their  facilities  in  blossoming  and  ripening  their  seed  the 
first  season,  are  in  reality  perennial,  as  are  also  some  other 
varieties  from  warm  climates,  usually  denominated  annuals; 
but  as  such  could  not  be  cultivated  at  all  by  those  who  have 
no  means  of  protecting  their  plants  during  our  severe  winters, 
they  may  with  great  propriety  be  treated  as  tender  annuals, 
by  sowing  the  seed  every  spring. 

With  a  view  to  render  this  work  more  generally  useful  and 
interesting,  a  classification  and  definition  of  the  various  species 
and  varieties  embraced  in  the  annexed  Catalogue  are  given. 
Precision,  however,  in  the  performance  of  this  task  is  imprac- 
ticable, as  it  must  be  evident  that  the  vegetable  family,  hav- 
ing been  collected  from  every  variety  of  climate  and  soil,  will 
differ  as  to  height,  color,  time  of  blossoming,  and  in  many 
other  essential  points,  when  cultivated  out  of  their  natural 
ELEMENT. 


A    CATALOGUE    OF    ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS. 

Graines  de  fleurs  annuelles. 

§  Denotes  tender,    t  Perennial.    *  Difficult  to  transplant. 

Feet  High. 

f  Ageratum,  Mexican,  blue,  Ageratum  Mexicana,  1  to  2 

Alkekengi,  or  Kite  Flower,  lilac,       Atropa  physaloides}  3  to  4 


22  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Feet  High 

f  Aljssum,  Sweet,  white,  Atyssum  maritima,  1 

§  Amaranthus,  three-colored,  Amaranthus  tricolor,  2  to  3 

*  Argemone,  or  Prickly  Poppy,  yel-  Argemone,    Mexicana,    grandi- 
low,  cream-colored,  and  white,          flora,  ochrokuca,  etc.,  2  to  4 

Aster,  Chinese  and  German,  white,  Aster,  Chinensis,  var.,  alba,  ru- 

red,  striped,  purple,  etc.,  "bra.  striata,  purpurea,  etc.,     1  to  2 

§  Balsams;  three  species  and  nu-  Balsamina  hortensis,  Mastersi- 

merous  varieties,  scarlet,  striped,       ana,  cornuta,  coccinea,  striata, 

purple,  crimson,  white,  etc.,  purpurea,  alba,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Bartonia,  the  Golden,  Bartonia  aurea,  2  to  3 

Bladder  Ketmia,  buff,  dark  centre,     Hibiscus  trionum,  1  to  2 

Blue  Bottle,  Great,  Centaurea  cyanus,  major,          3  to  4 

Blue  Bottle,  Small,  Centaurea  cyanus,  minor,          1  to  2 

Blumenbachia,  white,  JSlumenbachia  insignis,      under        1 

§  Browallia,    or    Amethyst,    blue,  Browallia  elata,  alba,  etc.,          1  to  2 

white, 

§  Cacalia,  scarlet,  Cacalia  coccinea,  1  to  2 

Calliopsis;  Drummond's  Coreopsis,   Calliopsis  Drummondii,  2  to  3 

Calandrina,  Annual,  crimson,  Calandrina  speciosa,  etc.,  1  to  2 

f  Calandrina,     rose      and    purple  Calandrina  discolor,  etc.,  2  to  3 

tinged, 

*  Candytuft,  white  and  purple,          Iberis  alba,  purpurea,  etc.,  1 

*  Catch-fly,  purple  and  red,  Silene purpurea,  muscipula,  etc.,  2  to  3 

*  Catch-fly,    dwarf    pink,  spotted,  Silene  Armeria,  picta,  etc.,         1  to  2 
etc., 

*  Caterpillars,     Hedgehogs,       and  Medicago  circinnata,  intertexta, 

Snails,  curious,  scutellata,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Centaurea,  or  pink  Sultan,  Centaurea  Americana,  2  to  3 

China  Pink,  of  every  shade,  Dianthus  Chinensis,  annuus,  1  to  2 

§  Cleome,  rose-colored,  white,  etc.,  Cleome  rosea,  spinoca,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Chrysanthemum,  white,  yellow,  and  Chrysanthemum      coronarium, 

three-colored,  alba,  lutea,  tricolor,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Clarkia,  rose,  purple,  white,  etc.,  Clarkia  elegans,  pukhella,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Clintonia,  elegant  blue,  Clintonia  elegans,  1  to  2 

§  Cockscomb,  crimson  and  yellow,  Celocia  cristata,  lutea,  2  to  3 

§  Collinsia,    lilac,    white,    two-co-  Cottinsia  heterophylla,  bicolor,  2  to  3 

lored, 

f  Commelina,  blue-flowering,  Commelina  ccelestis,  1 

*  Convolvulus,    dwarf   variegated,  Convolvulus  minor,  bicolor,  etc.,  1  to  2 
etc., 

Coreopsis,  Golden,  dark  centre,         Calliopsis  tinctoria,  -  2  to  3 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  23 

Icet  High. 

§  Cotton  Plant,  cream,                        Gossypium  herbaceum,  3  to  4 

Crotalaria,     purple,     yellow,     and  Crotalaria  verrucosa,  etc.,  1  to  2 

white, 

Cuphea,   Mexican,    scarlet,    varie-  Cuphea  lanceolata,  silenoides,  1  to  2 

gated, 

f  Dahlia,  Mexican,  various,                Dahlia  superflua,  3  to  6 
Devil  in  the  Bush,  or  Love  in  a  Mist,  Nigella  damascena,   Hispanica, 

blue,  yellow,  purple,  white,  etc.,         orientalis,  saliva,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Dwarf  Love  in  a  Mist,  various,         Nigella  nana,  1 

f  Dew  Plant,  crimson,                        Mesembryanthemum  glabrum,  1  to  2 

f  Didiscus,  azure  blue,                        Didiscus  co&rukus,  2  to  3 

§  Egg-plant,  white,  for  ornament,     Solatium  melongena,  1  to  2 

Erissimum,  orange,                             Erissimum  perofskianum,  1  to  2 
f  Eschscholtzia,  or  Chryseis,  yellow,  Eschscholtzia,    crocea,    cristata, 

red,  and  orange,                                   California,  etc.,  1 
Eternal  Flower,  yellow,  purple,  and  Zeranthemum  lucidum,  van,  lu- 

white,                                                   tea,  bracteatum,  albal  2  to  3 

Euphorbia,  variegated,                       Euphorbia  variegata,  2  to  3 

*  Evening  Primrose,  dwarf  annual,   (Enothera  linearis,  Drummondii, 

white,  yellow,  red,  etc.,                      tetraptera,  micrantha,  etc.,  1  to  2 

*  Evening  Primrose,  large  yellow,     (Enothera  grandiflora,  2  to  3 

*  Evening  Primrose,  willow-leaved,   (Enothera  salicifolia,  3  to  4 
Feather  Grass,                                   Stipa  pinnata,  avenacea.  1  to  2 

*  Flos  Adonis,  or  Pheasant   Eye,  Adonis  minata,  1  to  2 

red, 

f  Francoa,  pink  and  purple,               Francoa  appendiculata,  1  to  2 

§  Galardia^  orange  and  crimson,         Galardia  picta,  ]  to  2 

Garidella,  Nigella  like,                        Garidella  nigellastrum,  1  to  2 

Gih'a,  blue,  pink,  variegated,  etc.,       GUia  capitata,  tricolor,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Globe     Amaranthus,      crimson,   Gomphrena  globosa,  1  to  2 

white, 

Grove  Love,  blue,                              Nemophila  insignis,  1 

f  Godetia  the  Twiggy,  purple,            Godetia  viminea,  3  to  4 

Godetia  the  Ruddy,  annual,                Godetia  rubricunda,  2  to  3 
Godetia,  dwarf,  purple,  and  spotted,   Godetia  lepida,  Lyndleyana,  etc.,I  to  2 

*  Gypsophila,  pink  and  white,            Gypsophila  elegans,  viscosa,  ]  to  2 
Hawkweed,  yellow  and  red,               Crepis  barbata  rubra,  1  to  2 
§  Hibiscus,  yellow,  reddish  centre,    Hibiscus  Africanus,  2  to  3 

*  Horned  Poppy,  yellow  and  scarlet,   Glauceum  luteum,  pho3niceum,  2  to  3 
f  Hunnemania,  brilliant  yellow,         Ifunnemania  famerix,  folia,  3  to  4 
Hypecoum,  three  species,  yellow,     Hypecoum  procumbens,  etc.,  1  to  2 


2:  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

JFeet  High 

§  Ice  Plant,  white,  Mesembryanthemum,  var.,                 I 

f  Jaeobea,  purple,  spotted,  etc.,  Senecio  purpurea,  elegans,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Job's  Tears,  grey,  Coix  lachryma  Jobi,                   2  to  3 

Larkspur,    dwarf   Eocket,    white,  Delphinium  ajacis,  alba,  cozru- 

blue,  purple,  pink,  and  other  co-      lea,  purpurea,  etc.,  1  to  2 

lors, 

Larkspur,   branching,   various  co-  Delphinium  consolida,  etc.,         2  to  3 

lors, 

Lavatera,  red,  purple,  and  white,  Lavatera,  trimestris,  alba,  etc.,  4  to  6 

Love-lies-bleeding,  crimson,  Amarantlms  melancholicus,        1  to  2 

Lunaria,  purple,  Lunaria  purpurea,                     1  to  2 

*  Lupins,  dwarf  annual, yellow,  pur-  Lupinus  nantls,  densiflorus,  bi- 

ple,  rose,  two-colored,  etc.,                color,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Malesherbia,  blue,  Malesherbia  coronata,  2  to  3 

*  Malope,  tall  scarlet,  etc.,  Malope  grandiflora,  etc.,  3  to  4 

*  Malope,  dwarf  crimson,  rose,  Malope  triftda,  malacoides,  1  to  2 
Marigold,  Afritan,  yellow,  orange,  Tagetes  erecta,  3  to  4 
Marigold,  French,  variegated,  Tagetes  patula,  2  to  3 
Marigold,  sweet,  yellow  striped,  Calendula  officinalis,  1  to  2 
§  Marigold,  Fig,  yellow,  Mesembryanthemum  annuus,  1 
Martynia,  or  Cuckold's  Horn,  Marty nia  proboscidea,  2  to  3 
f  Marvel  of  Peru,  or  Four  O'Clocks,  Mirabilis  j'alapa,  lutea,  rubra, 

white,  yellow,red, striped,  scented,  striata,  longiflora,  etc.,            2  to  3 

f  Mignonette,  sweet  scented,  Reseda  odorata,                  under        1 

f  Monkey  Flower,  yellow,  scarlet,  Mimulus  moschatus,  cardinalis, 

rose,  etc.,  variegated,  rivularius,  roseus,  etc.,            1  to  2 
§  Nierembergia,  several  varieties  of  Niererabergia  intermedia,  viola- 
various  colors,  cea,  pJio&nicea,  etc.,                  2  to  3 
Nolana,  in  varieties,  blue,  Nolanaparadoxia,  prostrata,etc.  1  to  2 

*  Oats,  animated,  green,  Avena  sensitiva,                         2  to  3 
f  Pansy,   or  Heart's-Ease,  purple,  Viola  tricolor,  grandiflora,  atro- 

blue,yellow,and  numerous  shades,     purpurea,  cceruka,  lutea,  etc., 

variegated,  under        1 

Pentaptes,  scarlet,  Pentaptes  pho&nicea,  \  to  2 

Phlox,  annual,  rosy  red,  etc.,  Phlox  Drummondiz,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Pimpernel,  blue  and  scarlet,  Anagallis  indica,  arvensis,  1 

*  Poppy,  large,  white  and  scarlet,     Papaver  somniferum,  coccinea,    3  to  4 

*  Poppy,  dwarf,  scarlet,  white,  yel-  Papaver  rhceas,  nudicale,  Persi- 
low,  striped,  Persian  red,  etc.,  cum,  rubra,  striata,  etc.,          1  to  2 

Portulaca,  two  var.,  purple,  scarlet,  Portulaca  splendens,  coccinea,  1 

Prince's  Feather,  crimson,  Amaranthus  hypochondriacus,   2  to  3 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  25 

Feet  High. 

Rocket  Candytuft,  white,  etc.,  Iberis  coronaria,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Rose  Campion,  annual,  dwarf  red,  Agrostemma  cceli,  rosea,  githa- 

purple,  white,  striped,  etc.,  go,  lacla,  etc.,  1 

Salpiglossis,  variegated,  purple,  etc.,  Salpiglossis,  atro-purpurea,  2  to  3 
Saphonaria,  or  Silene,  rose,  Saphonaria  vaccaria,  2  to  3 

f  Schizanthus,  in  variety,  orange,  Schizanthus  retusus,  pinnatus, 

wing-leaved,  etc.,  obtusifolia,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Sensitive  Plant,  red,  Mimosa  sensitiva,  under  1 

Shortia,  yellow,  Shortia  Calif ornica,  1  to  2 

§  Stevia,  Vanilla-scented,  white,  Stevia  serrata,  1  to  2 

Stock  Gilly,  Virginian,  lilac,  Malcomia  maritima,  1 

Strawberry  Spinach,  red  fruit,  Blitum  capitatum,  3  to  2 

Strephtanthus,  rose-colored,  Strephtanthus  obtusifolius,  2  to  3 

Sunflower,  yellow,  Helianthus  annuus,  6  to  8 

Sunflower,  dwarf,  yellow,  Helianthus  minor,  nanus,  2  to  3 

Sun  Rose,  spotted,  Helianthemum  guttatum,  1  to  2 

*  Sweet  Balm,  blue,  Melissa  odoratum,         •  1  to  2 

*  Sweet  Basil,  blush,  lilac,  Ocymum  basiliacum,  1  to  2 
Sweet  Sultan,  white,  yellow,  purple,    Centaurea  moschata,  etc.,  1  to  2 

*  Ten  Week  Stock,  scarlet,  purple,  Mathiola    annua,  var.,  grceca, 
white,  etc.,  tenella,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Tobacco  in  varieties,  scarlet,yellow,  Nicotiana  tdbacum,  rustica,  3  to  4 
Touch-me-not,  yellow,  [etc.,  Noli  me  tangere,  1 

Trefoil,  crimson  and  scented,  Trifolium  incarnatum,  etc.,         3  (o  4 

*  Venus's  Looking-glass,  lilac,  Campanula  speculum,  1  to  2 
Vesicaria,  in  varieties,  yellow,            Vesicaria  grandiflora,  etc.,         2  to  3 
f  Verbena,  in  varieties,  scarlet,  rose,    Verbena    aubletia,    bonariensis, 

blue,  lilac,  pink,  etc.,  Drummondii,  pulchella,  etc.,   1  to  3 

Zinnia,  scarlet,  yellow,  violet-color-  Zinnia  coccinea,   latea,   grandi- 
ed,  red,  etc.,  flora,  rubra,  etc.,  2  to  3 

The  following  are  climbing  and  trailing  plants,  which  should 
be  planted  in  situations  where  they  can  be  supported  by  poles, 
twine,  or  trellises.  The  tallest  growing  vines  and  creepers  are 
best  adapted  to  the  covering  of  arbors,  to  create  shade,  or  con- 
ceal any  unsightly  object;  the  procumbent  trailing  and  low 
climbing  plants,  such  as  the  Nasturtium,  Loasa,  Petunia,  Sweet 
Pea,  &c.,  maybe  trained  on  trellis-work  of  an  ornamental  form, 
as  that  of  a  fan,  balloon,  or  pyramid,  which  should  be  on  a 
scale  corresponding  to  the  situation  and  extent  of  the  garden. 

2 


ZO  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Feet  High. 

Balloon  Vine,  or  Love  in  a  Puff,  Cardiospermum  halicacabum,  over  10 

§  Balsam  Apple  and  Pear,  Momordica  balsamina,  over  10 

Bean  Hyacinth,  white  and  purple,  Dolichos  alba,  purpurea,  over  10 

§  Bean,  scarlet  flowering,  Phaseolus  multiflorus,  over  10 

Bean,  Castor  Oil,  or  Palma  Christi,  Ricinus  communis,  5  to  6 

§  Cypress  Yine,  scarlet  and  white,  Ipomcea  coccinea,  alba,  over  10 

G-ourd,  Mock  Orange,  in  varieties,  Cucurbita  bicolor,  aurantia,  over  10 

Gourd,  the  Bottle,  in  varieties,  Cucurbita  lagenaria,  elevata,  10 

§  Loasa  or  Chilian  Nettle,  orange,  Loasa  lateritia,  aurantiaca,  etc.,  3  to  6 

Maurandia,  blue,  Maurandia  Barclayana,  over  10 

§  Morning  Glory, scarlet  striped, etc.,  Ipomcea  coccinea,  striata,  etc.,  over  10 

Morning  Glory,  of  the  Convolvu-  Convolvulus  major,  purpurea, 

lus  tribe,  purple,  striped,  yellow,  coerulea,  striata,  lutea,  incar- 

pink,  white,  etc.,  nata,  alba,  etc.,  over  10 

Nasturtium,  orange,  and  crimson,  Tropoeolum  atrosanguineum, 

variegated,  nana,  etc.,  4  to  6 

§  Thunbergia,  wing-leaved,  purple,  Thunbergia  alata,  etc.,  4  to  6 

f  Petunia,  purple,  white,  rose,  etc.,  Petunia  nyctaginiflora,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Sweet  Peas,  various  complexions,  Lafhyrus  odoratus,  var.,  alba, 

white,  purple,  red,  rose,  striped,  etc.,  purpurea,  rosea,  striata,  etc.,    3  to  4 


As  many  city  gardens  are  so  limited  as  not  to  admit  of  an 
extensive  assortment  of  flowers,  a  select  list  may  be  made  from 
the  above  Catalogue,  to  suit  the  taste  of  such  as  may  be  so 
situated;  and  amateurs,  who  cultivate  on  a  larger  scale,  can 
obtain  such  additional  sorts  as  may  be  desired  at  the  different 
seed-stores,  under  their  various  names. 

Previous  to  providing  annual  flower  seeds,  the  cultivator 
should  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden ;  and  in  making  allotments 
of  ground  for  any  particular  purpose,  provision  should  be  made 
for  a  select  assortment  of  such  bulbous,  tuberous,  and  peren- 
nial plants  as  may  be  deemed  most  worthy  of  attention,  not 
forgetting  to  leave  room  for  some  of  the  choicest  varieties  of  the 
Dahlia,  the  qualities  of  which  will  be  described  hereafter. 

Another  consideration  is  to  have  at  hand  suitable  imple- 
ments, so  that  the  work  may  be  performed  in  a  skilful  manner 
and  at  the  proper  season.  A  spade,  rake,  hoe,  trowel,  drilling- 
machine,  and  pruning-knife,  may  be  deemed  essential ;  and  in 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  27 

order  to  liave  the  beds  laid  out  with  the  edges  straight  and 
even,  a  garden-line  should  be  in  readiness.  If  labels  should  be 
required,  they  may  be  made  of  shingles,  which,  being  split  into 
strips  about  an  inch  wide,  and  sharpened  at  one  end,  will  serve 
for  marking  distinct  kinds,  either  in  pots,  or  on  the  borders. 
In  order  to  have  the  names  or  numbers  written  in  legible  cha- 
racters, the  labels  should  be  painted  on  the  smooth  side  with 
white  lead,  and  then  marked  with  a  black-lead  pencil  before 
the  paint  gets  dry.  Inscriptions  made  in  this  way  will  be  as 
durable  as  the  label  itself. 

The  next,  and  perhaps  the  most  important,  consideration  is 
to  have  the  ground  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed.  In 
order  to  attain  this  desirable  object,  let  some  good  rich  com- 
post or  very  old  manure  be  provided  and  well  mixed  with 
the  soil.  Mingle  it  with  the  soil  a  full  spit  deep,  pulverizing 
every  particle.  It  would  be  an  advantage  if  the  ground  could 
be  dug  to  a  great  depth  at  the  commencement  of  winter,  and 
then  again  at  the  period  of  sowing  seed  in  the  SPRING. 

PREPARATION    OP   THE    SOIL. 

A  mellow  loam,  which  is  a  medium'  earth  between  the  ex- 
tremes of  clay  and  sand,  enriched  with  pulverized  manure 
or  compost,  is  adapted  to  the  generality  of  flowering  plants ; 
but  ground  of  a  boggy  nature,  composed  of  black  earth,  de- 
cayed leaves,  etc.,  and  in  a  low  situation,  is  essential  to  the 
luxuriant  growth  of  amphibious  plants,  as  Water  Lilies,  Iris, 
Lobelia,  and  the  like.  As  the  cultivator  has  not  always  a 
choice,  he  may  select  such  plants  only  as  are  most  congenial 
to  his  peculiar  soil  and  situation. 

Previous  to  preparing  flower-beds  or  borders,  care  must  be 
taken  to  arrange  them  in  such  a  manner  that  the  ground  may 
be  a  little  elevated  in  the  middle.  This  is  essential  to  the 
draining  off  of  a  redundancy  of  water,  as  well  as  to  the  exhibi- 
tion of  plants  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 

All  kinds  of  annual  flower  seeds  may  be  sown  early  in  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING. 

spring,  on  borders  or  beds  of  pulverized  earth.  The  beds 
should  be  levelled,  and  the  seed  sown  either  in  small  patches, 
each  kind  by  itself,  or  in  drills,  from  an  eighth  to  half  an  inch 
deep,  according  to  the  size  .or  nature  of  the  seed.  Lupins, 
Peas,  &c.,  should  be  planted  about  half  an  inch  deep.  Those 
who  would  have  their  plants  flower  early  should  sow  the  hardy 
kinds  early  in  the  season.  Those  varieties  marked  thus  f ,  and 
thus  §,  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  pots  of  light  earth,  at  the 
same  time.  These,  if  exposed  to  the  sun  every  day,  and  shel- 
tered in  cold  nights,  will  be  forwarded  in  growth,  and  be  fit  to 
transplant  early  in  June.  Those  marked  *  may  also  be  sown  in 
small  pots ;  and  as  these  plants  will  not  bear  transplanting,  they 
should  be  turned  out  of  the  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire, 
and  placed  in  the  ground  where  they  are  intended  to  flower ; 
or,  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  a  bed  with  other  kinds,  the  plants 
should  be  carefully  transplanted  with  a  trowel,  without  disturb- 
ing their  roots. 


HOW  TO  GROW  EARLY  FLOWERS. 

The  most  eligible  way  to  obtain  early  flowers  is  to  prepare 
a  slight  hotbed  for  the  tender  kinds,  and  either  plunge  the 
pots  therein  up  to  their  brims,  or  sow  the  seed  in  the  earth  in 
shallow  drills,  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  It 
may  be  necessary  to  state  that,  although,  in  favorable  seasons, 
flower  seed  in  general  will  come  up  in  from  one  to  three  weeks 
after  it  is  sown,  the  seed  of  the  Cypress  vine  will  not  grow 
until  settled  warm  weather,  unless  in  a  hotbed.  It  should  be 
soaked  for  about  half  an  hour  in  moderately  warm  water  pre- 
vious to  being  sown.  If  some  of  the  hardy  annuals  be  sown 
in  September,  they  will  grow  large  enough  to  survive  the 
winter,  if  slightly  covered  with  straw  or  litter;  and  if  plants 
thus  raised  be  transplanted  early  in  the  spring,  they  will  pro- 
duce very  early  flowers. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  29 

To  prevent  disappointment,  I  would  recommend  that  great 
care  be  taken  to  keep  the  seed-beds  as  clear  from  weeds  as 
possible.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  young  plants  are  apt  to  get 
smothered,  and  sometimes  pulled  up  with  weeds.  To  obviate 
this,  I  would  suggest  that  the  seed  be  sown  in  shallow  drills, 
each  kind  by  itself;  and  that  an  account  be  kept  of  the  con- 
tents of  each  drill  in  a  book  ;  also  of  all  seeds  that  are  sown  at 
different  times  ;  and  by  being  particular  in  the  dates,  you  may 
always  know  when  to  expect  your  plants  to  come  up.  Those 
persons  totally  unacquainted  with  plants  will,  by  this  means, 
be  enabled  to  identify  each  particular  kind,  and  thus  become 
familiarly  acquainted  with  them. 

These  pots  may  be  either  marked  with  letters  or  figures  on 
the  outside,  to  answer  with  the  book,  or  notches  may  be  cut  in 
wood,  or  other  labels  affixed  to  the  pots,  and  entered  accord- 


If  these  numbers  be  continued  to  one  hundred,  or  even  one 
thousand,  there  can  be  no  mistake,  provided  the  rows  are  all 
marked  according  to  the  entry  in  the  book;  or  if  No.  1  be 
noted,  plain  sticks  will  answer  afterwards,  if  one  be  stuck  at 
each  end  of  every  row.  In  this  case  it  would  be  well  to  leave 
a  space  every  ten  or  twenty  rows,  and  note  the  number  of  rows. 
By  this  means  they  can  be  more  easily  traced. 

Some  species  of  Dwarf  Annuals,  such  as  Sweet  Alyssum, 
Candytuft,  Clarkia  Pulchella,  Mignonette,  Pimpernell,  and  such 
others  as  grow  not  over  a  foot  in  height,  may  be  cultivated  in 
small  beds,  either  separate  or  two  or  three  kinds  mixed  toge- 
ther. Clarkia  Pulchella  suits  very  well  with  Mignonette,  as  it 
will  thrive  in  moderately  poor  soil,  which  is  the  best  adapted 
for  that  plant  when  fragrance  is  an  object. 

MANAGEMENT    OF   VARIOUS    KINDS    OF   FLOWERS. 

The  best  way  to  manage  the  mixed  species  is  to  level  a 
narrow  border  of  rather  poor  soil,  and  sow  it  all  over  with 
Mignonette,  then  with  Clarkia  Pulchella.  When  the  plants 


30  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

are  up,  both  kinds  should  be  thinned  out  equally,  so  as  to  leave 
the  plants  from  one  to  two  inches  apart  all  over  the  bed. 
These,  when  they  come  into  blossom,  will  form  a  rich  mass, 
and  have  a  very  pretty  effect,  the  bushiness  of  the  Mignonette 
hiding  the  naked  stalks  of  the  Clarkia.  The  White  Alyssum 
and  Purple  Candytuft  form  a  pleasing  contrast  when  mixed  in 
equal  proportions,  and  also  the  Dwarf  Gilia  and  Blue  Pimper- 
nell. 

The  new  species  of  Dwarf  Annual  Phlox  (Phlox  Drum- 
mondii)  is  described  in  a  London  magazine  as  a  splendid  sight 
when  cultivated  in  a  bed.  "Every  flower,  though  of  the 
deepest  carmine,  has  its  petals  of  a  pale  blush  color  on  the 
under  side,  and  every  petal,  though  of  the  palest  pink,  has  a 
dark  carmine  spot  at  its  base.  Thus  the  variety  of  colors  dis- 
played in  a  bed  of  these  flowers  almost  exceeds  description ; 
and  when  they  are  seen  under  a  bright  sun,  and  agitated  by  a 
gentle  breeze,  the  effect  is  extraordinarily  brilliant." 

When  seeds  are  intended  to  be  sown  in  patches,  which  is 
often  done  for  want  of  an  unoccupied  border,  the  best  way  to 
perform  this  business  is,  after  having  pulverized  the  soil,  to 
form  circular  drills  in  the  surface  with  the  rim  of  a  flower-pot, 
which  may  be  large  or  small  according  to  fancy.  By  sowing 
seed  in  such  circular  drills,  the  plants  can  be  more  easily  traced 
than  when  scattered  promiscuously  over  the  ground ;  and  the 
weeds  can  be  destroyed  with  less  risk  and  trouble.  Such 
kinds  as  are  marked  in  the  Catalogue  thus  *  may  remain  as 
sown;  or,  if  parted,  they  should  be  removed  with  a  scoop 
trowel  in  a  careful  manner,  in  small  tufts  ;  and  this  business,  as 
well  as  transplanting  in  general,  should  always  be  done  imme- 
diately preceding  or  after  rain,  and  in  cloudy  weather. 

The  risk  and  trouble  of  transplanting  may  be  avoided  by 
adopting  the  following  method  of  sowing  the  seed :  Take  a  dollar 
package  of  twenty  varieties,  and  number  the  bags  from  one  to 
twenty ;  then  sow  a  circle  from  each  bag  in  the  order  in  which 
they  are  numbered,  and  insert  a  short  stick  in  the  centre  of 
each  circle  as  a  mark.  By  this  method  the  twenty  varieties 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  31 

are  distributed  along  the  border  in  succession,  and  as  each  bag 
will  be  sufficient  for  three  circles,  sixty  circles,  or  three  assort- 
ments of  twenty  varieties,  may  be  sown  in  three  different 
aspects  of  the  garden,  which  will  not  only  give  the  various 
flowers  the  best  possible  chance  with  regard  to  exposure,  but 
show  the  varieties  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  By 
preserving  the  bags,  the  mere  novice,  by  referring  to  the  name 
and  number  on  each,  will  become  acquainted  with  the  different 
varieties  from  the  order  in  which  they  stand  in  his  garden. 
This  system  may  be  practised  to  advantage  either  on  a  large  or 
small  scale. 

Herbaceous  plants  in  general  will  not  flower  well  if  grown  in 
clusters.  They  should,  therefore,  be  thinned  or  transplanted 
into  the  regular  beds,  at  all  favorable  opportunities,  after  they 
have  grown  about  an  inch  in  height ;  and  as  there  is  always  a 
risk  of  some  plants  not  taking  root,  it  is  safest  to  plant  a  few 
of  each  sort  every  time,  taking  care  to  diversify  the  colors,  and 
also  to  leave  a  few  plants  in  the  seed-beds,  for  the  purpose  of 
substituting  in  the  room  of  such  plants  whose  period  of  flower- 
ing may  be  over ;  as  is  the  case  generally  with  early  perennial 
plants  and  bulbs,  at  about  the  season  that  the  last  of  the  annuals 
are  fit  to  remove.  The  transplanting  may  be  done  with  a  small 
trowel,  or  a  neat  dibble  made  for  the  purpose. 


BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEED. 

The  remarks  preceding  our  Catalogue  of  Annuals  will,  with 
few  exceptions,  apply  to  that  of  Biennials  and  Perennials ;  and 
the  circulation  of  the  sap  in  the  roots  and  stalks  of  plants  is 
influenced  by  like  causes  and  subject  to  the  same  vicissitudes  as 
the  germination  of  seed.  This  principle  is  exemplified  by  some 
plants  of  various  species  putting  forth  their  leaves  and  flowers 
at  a  later  period  than  others  in  the  same  location,  as  if  waiting 


32  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

for  nature  to  replenish  the  earth  with  food  adapted  to  their 
respective  requirements,  which  by  the  gradual  changes  from 
cool  to  temperate,  and  from  that  to  warm  weather,  is  affected 
to  that  degree  as  to  enable  all  the  various  species  of  plants,  col- 
lected from  every  climate  and  soil  under  the  sun,  to  reward  the 
industrious  cultivator  by  a  gradual  exhibition  of  their  fascinat- 
ing blossoms,  and  a  distribution  of  their  odoriferous  sweets, 
throughout  the  three  propitious  seasons  of  the  year. 

In  distinguishing  between  biennials  and  perennials,  I  have 
only  marked  such  as  are  apt  to  die  after  once  blossoming, 
and  which  can  only  be  renewed  from  seed.  Some  of  those 
species,  frequently  classed  with  biennials,  as  Aquilegia  or 
Columbines,  Dianthus,  etc.,  are  in  reality  perennial,  and  may 
be  easily  perpetuated  from  year  to  year,  by  suckers,  layers,  or 
any  of  the  ordinary  methods  of  propagation.  Frequent  renewal 
of  the  roots  of  perennials  is  absolutely  necessary  to  their  pros- 
perity or  yery  existence.  Many  species  are  by  nature  best 
adapted  for  propagation  at  the  footstalks,  from  their  yielding 
little  or  no  seed  at  the  top  of  the  plant.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  choice  double-flowering  plants,  the  roots  of  which 
in  many  cases  constitute  the  seed,  which  must  be  perpetuated 
by  root  offsets,  cuttings,  etc. 

The  annexed  Catalogue  embraces  a  great  proportion  of  the 
most  desirable  of  what  are  termed  fibrous-rooted  herbaceous 
plants,  the  seed  or  roots  of  which  may  be  obtained  at  seed-stores 
and  nurseries.  The  estimated  height  applies  to  plants  of  a 
year's  growth.  Some  will  arrive  to  more  than  three  times  that 
height  when  cultivated  in  a  green-house ;  and  even  in  open- 
ground  culture  the  same  plants  will  vary  considerably,  accord- 
ing to  the  soil  or  situation  in  which  they  are  grown.  The  speci- 
fied height,  however,  although  unavoidably  imperfect,  may  serve 
as  a  guide  to  the  gardener  in  arranging  his  flower-beds.  Those 
marked  thus  f,  being  tender  and  half-hardy,  will  need  protection 
in  the  winter.  Those  marked  thus  |  are  biennials.  Those 
marked  thus  *  yield  little  or  no  seed.  There  are  also  many 
other  species  of  which  the  seed  is  unattainable,  from  its  being 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  33 

suffered  to  be  scattered  by  the  wind,  and  in  some  cases,  from 
the  climate  being  ,  unfavorable  to  its  ripening.  These,  as  will 
be  shown  hereafter,  may  be  perpetuated  by  other  methods. 

A  CATALOGUE  OF  BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEEDS. 

Graines  de  fleurs  bisannuelles  et  vivaces. 

t  Denotes  tender.          5  Biennial.  *  Seed  unattainable. 

Feet  High. 

Adonis,  Spring-flowering,  yellow,     Adonis  vernalis,  2  to  3 

Alpine  Columbine,  purple,                 Aquilegia  Alpina,  1  to  2 

Alyssum,  yellow,                              Alyssum  saxatile,  1 

Asclepias,  orange,  purple,  etc.,          Asclepias  incarnata,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Asiatic  Globe  Flower,  yellow,  TroUius  Asiaticus,  3  to  4 
f  Auricula,  variegated,  Primula  auricula,  under  1 

|  Balm  of  Gilead,  fragrant,                Dracocephalum  canariense,  1 

Bee  Larkspur,  blue  and  brown,         Delphinium  datum,  4  to  6 

Bergamot,  crimson,  blue,                   Monarda  Kalmiana,  didyma,  2  to  3 

*f  Canary  Aster,  purple,                     Cineraria  amelloides,  1 

f  Calceolaria,  various  colors,               Calceolaria  variabilis,  2  to  3 

Campanula,  Peren.,  blue,  white,  etc.,  Campanula  persicafolia,  etc.,  2  to  3 

|  Canterbury  Bells,  blue,  white,         Campanula  medium,  2  to  3 

f  Caper  Tree,  green,                            Cuphorbia  lathyrus,  2  to  3 

Cardinal  Flower,  in  varieties,  scar-  Lobelia  cardinalis,  etc.,  3  to  4 

let. 

Cassia,  Maryland,  yellow,                   Cassia  Marylandica,  3  to  4 

f  Carnation  Pink,  various  colors,       Dianthus  caryophyllus,  1  to  2 

*f  Celsia,    red  and  yellow,  varie-  Celsia  orientalis,  1  to  2 

gated, 

Chinese  Imperial  Pink,  variegated,  Dianthus  Chinensis,  1  to  2 
f  Chinese  Primrose,  lilac,  white,  Primula  Chinensis,  under  I 

f  Cistus,  yellow,                                  Cistus  guttatus,  1  to  2 

f  Clandanthus,  white,                          Clandanthus  ardbicus,  2  to  3 

f  Clerodendron,  scarlet,                       Clerodendron  speciosum,  4  to  5 

Clove  Imperial  Pink,  crimson,           Dianthus  hortensis,  1  to  2 

f  Colutea,  scarlet,                                Sutherlandia  frutescens,  2  to  3 

*  Coreopsis,  Perennial,  in  varieties.   Calliopsis  grandiftora,  lanceola- 

yellow,  -                                               turn,  auriculata,  etc.,              2  to  3 

*f  Coronilla,  yellow,                            Coronilla  glauca,  2  to  3 

*  Coronet,  or  double-  Lychnis,  scar- 
let.                                                 Lychnis  coronata,  2  to  3 

2* 


34  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Feet  High. 

|  Clary,  purple-topped,  Salvia  sclara,  1  to  2 

Columbine,  various  colors,  Aquilegia  vulgdris,  I  to  2 

*f  Daisy,  Garden,  various  colors,  Bellis  perennis,  hortensis,  under  1 

Dragon's  Head,  bluish  pink,  Dracocephalum  Virginianum,  3  to  4 

Dragon's  Head,  purple  and  striped,  Dracocephalum  argumense,etc.,  1  to  2 

European  Globe  Mower,  yellow,  Trollius  Europceus,  2  to  3 

I  Evening  Primrose,  yellow,  (Enoihera  biennis,  3  to  4 

Eupatorium,  blue,  white,  Eupatorium  cceruka,  etc.,  2  to  3 

j|  Foxglove,  purple,  white,  Digitalis  purpurea,  alba,  3  to  4 

Fraxinella,  red,  white,  Dictamnus  rubra,  alba,  1  to  2 

Gentian,  purple,  yellow,  white,  Gentiana  purpurea,  lutea,  etc.,  1 

Gentian,  porcelain-flowered,  Gentiana  adscendens,  2  to  3 

f  Geranium,  various  colors,  Pelargonium  zonale,  2  to  3 

Globe  Thistle,  purple,  Echinops  sphcerocephalus,  2  to  3 

f  Hepatica,  blue,  pink,  Anemone  hepatica,  under  1 

Hibiscus,  pink,  white,  purple,  Hibiscus palustris,  speciosus,etc.3  to  4 

Hollyhock,  Antwerp,  China,  and  Allhearosea  Chinensis,Anglica, 

English,  of  various  colors,  etc.,  4  to  5 

||  Honesty,  or  Satin  Flower,  blush,  Lunaria  liennis,  2  to  3 

f  Indian  Shot,  yellow,  scarlet,  Canna  Indica,  lutea,  coccinea,  1  to  2 

f  I  Ipomopsis,  scarlet,  Ipomopsis  elegans,  3  to  4 

Ivy-leaved  Toad  Flax,  pink,  Lunaria,  cymbalaria,  1  to  2 

Jacob's  Ladder,  blue,  Polemonium  cozruleum,  1  to  2 

f  Jerusalem  Cherry,  red  fruit,  Solanum  pseudo,  capsicum,  2  to  3 

Larkspur,  Perennial,  purple,  pink,  Delphinium  grandiflorum,  pe- 

white,  etc.,  rennis,                                  2  to  3 

*  Liatris,  long  spiked,  purple,  Liatris  spicata,  elegans,  etc.,      3  to  4 

*  Lily  of  the  Yalley,  white,  Convallaria  majalis,                       1 
f  Lotus,  brown,  Lotus  jacobeus,                         2  to  3 
f  Lisianthus,  scarlet,  Lisianthus  Russellianus,           2  to  3 
f  Lupin,     Perennial,     blue,     white,  Lupinus  perennis,    mutabilis, 

changeable,  eta,  variabilis,  etc.,                     2  to  3 

*  Lychnidea,or  American  Phlox,  lilac,  Phlox  puniculata,  acuminata, 
purple,  red,  white,  etc.,  pyramidalis,  odorata,  etc.,     3  to  4 

*  Lychnidea,  early,  pink,  etc.,  Phlox  subulata,  stolonifera,etc.,  1  to  2 

*  Lychnis,  Mountain,  variegated,         Lychnis  Alpina,  1  to  2 
Lychnis,  scarlet,                                    Lychnis  Chalcedonica,              3  to  4 
London  Pride,  variegated,                    Dianthus  deltoides,  1 
•f-  Mesembryanthemum,     variegated,  Mesembryanthemum     acinaci- 

yellow,  white,  purple,  etc.,  forme,  spectabik,tricolor,etc.,  1  to  2 

*f  Mexican  Sage,  scarlet,  Salvia  splendens,  2  to  3 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  35 

Feet  High. 

Monk's  Hood,  white,  blue,  etc.,  Aconitum  album,  versicolor,  etc.,  4  to  6 
Monkey  Flower,  yellow,  purple  spots,  Mimulus  ringens,  luteus,  etc.,  1  to  2 
f  Oleander,  pink,  white,  Nerium  Oleander,  2  to  3 

*  Pardanthus,  Chinese,  orange,          Pardanthus  Chinensis,  1  to  2 
Pentstemon,  purple,                            Pentstemon  campanulata            2  to  3 
Perennial  Flax,  purple,                       Linum  perennis,                         2  to  3 
f  Periwinkle,     Madagascar,     rose, 

white,  Vinca  rosea,  alba,  1  to  2 

Pink,  Pheasant-eyed,  variegated,  Dianthus  plumarius,  under  1 
f  Polyanthus,  variable  and  splendid,  Primula  polyanthus,  under  1 
Poppy,  Perennial,  red,  yellow,  Papaver  orientate,  bracteata,  2  to  3 

Poteutilla,  rose,  puce,  yellow,  Potentilla  formosa,  splendens,     1  to  2 

f  I  Pyramidal  Bell  Flower,  blue,         Campanula  pyramidalis,          3  to  4 

*  Queen  of  the  Meadows,  white,  rose,  Spircea  ulmaria,  lobata,  etc.,     3  to  4 

*  Ragged  Robin,  or  Red  Lychnis,      Agrostemma.  flos  cuculi,  1  to  2 
Rocket,  Garden,  purple,                     Hesperis  matronalis,                  2  to  3 
|  Rose   Campion,  or  Mullen  Pink,  Agrostemma  coronaria  rosea, 

rose,  white,  etc.,                                 alba,  etc.,                              2  to  3 

Rudbeckia,  yellow,  purple,                Rudbeckia,  lutea,  purpurea,       3  to  4 

Saphonaria,  rose  blush,                       Saphonaria  officinalis,  etc.,        1  to  2 

*  Saxifrage,  rose  white,  purple,          Saxifraga  umbrosa,  crassifolia,  1 
|  Snapdragon,  white,  red,  variegated,  Antirrhinum  bicolor,  versicolor, 

in  several  splendid  varieties.  coccinea,  spartium,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Sophora,  white,  blue,  etc..  Sophora  alba,  australis,  2  to  3 
f  ||  Stock  Gilliflower,  numerous  varie-  Matthiola  incana,  coccinea,  alba, 

ties,  scarlet,  white, purple,  striped,  purpurea,  stri-ata,  etc.,           1  to  2 

*  Sunflower,  yellow,  Helianthus  perennis,  altissimus,  3  to  4 
H  Sweet  Scabious,  purple,  brown,  Scabiosa  atra,  purpurea,  etc.,     2  to  3 
Sweet  "William,  various  colors,  Dianthus  barbatus,                    1  to  2 

*  Thrift,  pink  and  red,  Statice  vulgaris,  speciosa,  under  1 
Valerian,  Garden,  red,  white,  Valeriana  rubra,  alba,              2  to  3 
Valerian,  Sweet-scented,  blue,  Polemonium  carulea,                 3  to  4 
Veronica,  variegated,  blue,  Veronica  variegata,  c&rulea,     2  to  3 

*  Violet,  Fragrant,  white,  blue,  etc.,  Viola  odorata,  alba,  cosrulea,  under  1 
ffl  Wallflower,  bloody,  yellow,  Cheiranthus  Cheiri,                    1  to  2 
*f  Wallflower,  double  perennial,  Cheiranthus  perennis,                1  to  2 
f||  Wall-leaved  Stock  Gilliflower,  Cheiranthus  glaber,                  1  to  2 

*  Windflower,  various  colors,  Anemone  coronaria,                  1  to  2 
Yucca,  or  Adam's  Needle,  white,  Yucca filamentosa,  gloriosa,  etc.,3  to  -4 


36  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

The  reader  is  here  reminded  that  our  Catalogue  of  Annual 
Flower  Seeds  contains  a  few  varieties  of  perennials,  which 
were  there  introduced  because  of  their  aptness  to  blossom  the 
first  season  of  the  seed  being  sown;  these,  with  those 
marked  f  in  the  last  Catalogue,  may  be  sown  and  treated  in 
the  manner  recommended  for  tender  annuals.  Those  intend- 
ed to  be  cultivated  as  green-house  plants  should  be  taken  up 
before  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  transplanted  into  flower- 
pots, and  sheltered  either  in  a  garden-frame,  green-house,  or 
light  room.  Those  plants  with  tuberous  roots,  such  as 
Dahlias,  Marvel  of  Peru,  and  also  some  others  of  the  Bean 
and  Pea  tribe,  may  be  cut  down  late  in  the  autumn,  and  the 
roots  taken  up  and  preserved  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of 
other  tuberous  and  bulbous-rooted  plants,  of  which  I  shall 
treat  hereafter. 

Hardy  biennial  and  perennial  flower  seeds  may  be  sown  in 
the  month  of  April,  in  shallow  drills.  If  this  business  be  per- 
formed in  the  manner  recommended  for  annuals,  they  can  be 
easily  distinguished  from  each  other ;  and  as  these  plants  do 
not  flower  the  first  year,  they  may  be  thinned  out,  or  removed 
from  the  seed-beds  as  soon  as  they  are  well  rooted,  and  planted 
either  in  different  parts  of  the  flower-beds  or  in  a  nursery-bed. 
If  the  latter  plan  be  adopted,  they  should  be  planted  in  rows 
a  foot  or  more  apart,  and  kept  free  from  weeds  by  means  of  a 
small  hoe,  which  will  greatly  promote  their  growth,  and  pre- 
pare them  for  transplanting  into  the  regular  and  permanent 
blossoming-beds,  either  in  the  autumn  or  early  in  the  ensuing 
spring. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that  biennials  seldom  survive  the 

second  winter  to  flower  in  perfection,  unless  they  are  renewed 

by  cuttings  of  top  shoots,  young  flower  stalks,  or  casual  off- 

.  sets,  layers,  etc.     It  will  be  unnecessary  to*  take  this  trouble, 

unless  with  some  extraordinary  double-flowering  plants.    Some 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  37 

of  the  perennials  may  be  increased  by  root  offsets  detached 
from  the  old  plants,  and  planted  in  spring  or  autumn ;  others 
by  bottom  suckers  and  slips  of  top  shoots,  layers,  pipings  of 
young  shoots,  etc.  Pinks,  Sweet- Williams,  Pansies,  and  dou- 
ble Violets,  also  Periwinkle,  or  running  Myrtle,  and  many 
other  similar  plants,  may  be  increased  by  simply  laying  their 
branches  an  inch  or  two  under  the  surface,  in  July  and  August. 
After  roots  have  formed,  which  may  be  expected  in  six  or 
eight  weeks,  each  tuft  or  plant  may  be  transplanted  into  the 
borders. 

Many  sorts  of  biennial  and  perennial  flower  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  September,  or  as  soon  as  ripe ;  and  if  the  plants  get 
strong  before  winter  sets  in,  some  of  them  will  flower  the 
ensuing  summer. 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  reader  of  those 
species  of  beautiful  double-flowering  perennial  herbaceous 
plants  which  do  not  produce  seed ;  some  of  these  are  in- 
cluded in  our  Catalogue ;  they  may  be  obtained  at  the  nur- 
series, and  should  be  introduced  into  the  regular  flower-beds 
either  in  autumn  or  early  in  the  spring ;  the  best  mode  of 
increasing  these,  and  all  double-flowering  perennials  raised 
from  seed,'  is  by  layers,  cuttings,  offsets,  etc.,  detached  from 
the  old  plants. 

It  may  here  be  observed  that  the  most  certain  method  of 
obtaining  double  flowers  is  by  propagation  from  perennial 
plants.  Many  seed  customers  feel  disappointed  if  they  do  not 
in  every  case  procure  double  flowers  from  seed,  which  is 
unreasonable,  because,  although  seed  will,  under  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances, reproduce  its  species,  it  will  by  no  means  uniformly 
produce  the  particular  variety  by  which  it  was  borne.  The 
experience  of  numerous  amateurs  will  corroborate  this  fact, 
who  frequently,  after  saving  seed  from  their  most  perfect 
flowers,  have  the  mortification  of  witnessing  such  degeneracy 
the  following  season  as  would  lead  them  to  doubt  its  identity, 
had  the  seed  been  obtained  from  any  other  source.  Seed 
gathered  from  double  Balsams,  or  Lady  Slippers,  for  instance, 


38  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

will  frequently  produce   semi-double   and  single  flowers  the 
next  season. 


RENEWING  FLOWER-BEDS. 

As  the  earth  in  the  flower-beds  will  require  to  be  fresh  dug 
and  replenished  with  good  compost  or  manure  once  in  two  or 
three  years,  it  may  be  necessary  to  take  up  all  the  perennial 
plants  at  such  times.  Such  roots  as  are  overgrown  should  be 
deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets,  and  either  planted  in  a  nur- 
sery-bed, or  returned  with  the  parent  plants  into  the  regular 
flower-beds;  they  should  be  inserted  a  little  deeper  than 
before,  and  the  fine  fresh  earth  distributed  well  about  the 
fibres. 

In  removing  plants  into  the  beds  where  they  are  intended 
to  blossom,  great  pains  should  be  taken  to  preserve  some  of 
the  earth  to  their  roots.  The  ground  should  be  previously 
brought  into  good  condition,  so  that  they  may  strike  freely, 
and  produce  their  flowers  in  perfection.  The  plants  should 
be  so  arranged  that  they  may  all  be  seen,  the  most  dwarfish 
being  placed  in  front,  and  the  taller  kinds  in  regular  gradations 
behind ;  or  the  tallest  may  be  planted  along  the  middle  of  the 
beds,  and  the  others  on  each  side,  according  to  their  varied 
heights  and  colors. 


GROUPING  FLOWERS  ARTISTICALLY. 

There  is  no  part  of  gardening  which  requires  so  much  the 
exercise  of  taste  and  fancy,  as  in  setting  off  a  border  or  bed  of 
intermixed  flowers  to  advantage.  In  association  with  other 
flowers,  the  different  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  may  be  planted  in 
small  clumps  of  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  in  diameter,  three, 
four,  five,  or  more  roots  in  each,  according  to  their  size  and 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  39 

growth,  and  these  at  suitable  distances  from  each  other.  Like- 
wise  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds  and  colors,  so  as  to  display, 
when  in  bloom,  the  greatest  possible  variety  of  shades  and 
contrasts. 

If  green-house  plants  be  plunged  into  the  flower  borders  in 
the  month  of  May,  they  will  not  only  tend  to  ornament  the 
garden  by  their  diversity  of  foliage  and  blossom,  but  the  roots 
will  receive  a  more  uniform  supply  of  moisture  than  if  the 
pots  were  exposed  to  the  sun  and  wind ;  care  should,  however, 
be  taken  to  give  the  different  species  a  situation  •  suitable  for 
them.  Hydrangeas,  Primulas,  Daisies,  Oleanders,  Camellias, 
China  Roses,  and  half-hardy  plants  in  general,  thrive  best  in  a 
moderately  shaded  situation.  Geraniums,  Jasmines,  Helio- 
tropes, etc.,  may  be  plunged  in  a  sunny  situation,  provided 
they  be  regularly  supplied  with  water.  Many  species  planted 
for  ornament  in  the  flower  borders  may  at  the  same  time  be 
propagated  by  layers.  The  Fuchsia  or  Ear-drop,  Passion 
Flower,  Heliotrope,  Carnation,  Petunia,  running  Verbena,  etc., 
will,  if  laid  in  June  or  July,  exhibit  their  blossoms  in  perfec- 
tion, and  yield  young  plants,  which,  being  preserved  through 
winter,  may  be  used  to  replenish  flower-beds  the  ensuing 
spring. 


CHANGEABLE  FLOWER-GARDENS. 

u  First  flowers  of  the  spring-time, 

Bright  gems  of  the  year, 
All  lovely  and  blooming, 

How  fresh  ye  appear  ; 
Springing  up  in  the  garden, 

The  hedge -row,  and  vale, 
Enriched  by  the  showers, 

And  fanned  by  the  gale/' 

In  some  countries  the  wealthy  have  changeable  flower-gar 
dens,  which  are  so  arranged  that  their  productions  can  be 
changed  at  pleasure,  so  that  whenever  any  plant,  or  group  of 


40  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

plants,  begins  to  decay,  it  can  be  removed,  and  its  place  s applied 
by  others  coming  into  bloom.  To  effect  this,  a  large  reserve- 
nursery  is  requisite,  in  which  the  plants  must  be  kept  in  pots, 
and  removed  and  plunged  in  the  borders  as  wanted.  Sir  W. 
Chambers  informs  us  that  the  Chinese  excel  in  this  mode  of 
gardening ;  and  that  he  has  known  a  mandarin  (or  noble)  to 
have  the  whole  furniture  and  style  of  his  parterre  changed  in  a 
single  night,  so  as  to  present  next  morning  not  only  a  different 
description  of  flowers,  shrubs,  and  dwarf  trees,  but  a  different 
arrangement  of  the  beds  and  compartments.  Something  of 
the  same  kind  is  practised  in  the  gardens  of  the  Tuileries  in 
Paris,  in  some  of  the  imperial  gardens  at  St.  Petersburg,  and  in 
the  viceroyal  gardens  at  Monza.  Gardens  of  this  description 
admit  of  a  very  perfect  arrangement  of  the  flowers,  whether  in 
the  mingled  manner,  in  select  groups,  or  according  to  the 
natural  method.  It  is  only  with  such  resources  that  a  flower- 
gardener  can  "  paint  his  way,"  as  Sir  W.  Chambers  says  the 
Chinese  artists  do,  "  not  scattering  their  flowers  indiscrimi- 
nately about  their  borders,  but  disposing  of  them  with  great 
circumspection  along  the  skirts  of  the  plantations,  or  other 
places  where  flowers  are  to  be  introduced.  They  reject  all 
that  are  of  a  straggling  growth,  and  of  harsh  colors  and  poor 
foliage,  choosing  only  such  as  are  of  some  duration,  grow  either 
large  or  in  clusters,  are  of  beautiful  forms,  well  leaved,  and  of 
tints  that  harmonize  with  the  greens  that  surround  them. 
They  avoid  all  sudden  transitions,  both  with  regard  to  dimen- 
sion and  color,  rising  gradually  from  the  smallest  flowers  to 
those  of  the  boldest  growth ;  and  varying  their  tints,  by  easy 
gradations,  from  white,  straw-color,  purple,  and  incarnate,  to 
the  deepest  blues,  and  most  brilliant  crimsons  and  scarlets. 
They  frequently  blend  several  roots  together,  whose  leaves  and 
flowers  unite,  and  compose  one  rich,  harmonious  mass  ;  such  as 
the  white  and  purple  Candytuft,  Larkspurs,  and  Mallows  of 
various  colors,  double  Poppies,  Lupins,  Primroses,  Pinks,  arid 
Carnations ;  with  many  more  of  which  the  forms  and  colors 
accord  with  each  other;  and  the  same  method  they  use  with 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  41 

flowering  shrubs,  blending  white,  red,  and  variegated  roses 
together,  purple  and  white  lilacs,  yellow  and  white  jasmines, 
altheas  of  various  sorts,  and  as  many  others  as  they  can  with 
any  propriety  unite.  By  these  mixtures  they  increase  con- 
siderably the  variety  and  beauty  of  their  compartments.  In 
their  large  plantations,  the  flowers  generally  grow  in  the  natu- 
ral ground ;  but  in  flower-gardens,  and  all  other  parts  that  are 
highly  kept,  they  are  in  pots  buried  in  the  ground,  which,  as 
fast  as  the  bloom  goes  off,  are  removed,  and  others  are  brought 
to  supply  their  places ;  so  that  there  is  a  constant  succession 
for  almost  every  month  in  the  year ;  and  the  flowers  are  never 
seen  but  in  the  height  of  their  beauty." 

It  may  be  observed,  further,  that  established  plants  will 
always  produce  their  blossoms  earlier  and  stronger  in  the  spring 
than  those  recently  transplanted ;  it  should,  therefore,  be  an 
object  with  gardeners  to  do  the  business  of  forming  permanent 
flower-beds,  and  of  transplanting  hardy  perennial  and  biennial 
plants,  in  September  or  October. 

The  hardy  bulbous  roots  must  also  be  planted  in  October  or 
November,  which,  on  being  properly  preserved  through  the 
winter,  will  embellish  the  parterre  in  spring  by  their  early  and 
FIRST  FLOWERS. 

WALKS  AND  EDGINGS. 

In  my  preliminary  observations,  I  directed  the  attention  of 
my  readers  to  some  important  points  respecting  walks,  edgings, 
etc.  Although  box  is  superior  to  anything  else  for  edgings, 
yet,  in  extensive  gardens,  dwarf  plants  of  various  kinds  may  be 
used  for  such  purpose.  Thrift  is  the  neatest  small  evergreen 
next  to  box ;  but  Violets,  Pinks,  Periwinkle,  Pansy,  Iris,  Stone 
Crop,  or  even  Parsley,  Thyme,  Strawberry  plants,  etc.,  may  be 
used  for  the  sake  of  diversity.  These  will  require  frequent 
water-ing  and  trimming,  and  the  Thrift,  etc.,  should  be  some- 
times taken  up,  divided  at  the  roots,  and  replanted. 

Box  edgings  will  also  require  frequent  pruning  and  trimming; 


42  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

and  once  in  from  seven  to  ten  years  the  whole  may  be  taken 
up,  divided,  and  replanted,  and  the  surplus  slips  may  be  planted 
in  a  nursery-bed,  in  rows  about  a  foot  apart ;  these  wil^  be  suit- 
able for  making  edgings  the  year  following. 

Flower-beds  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  watered 
occasionally  in  the  summer.  In  the  autumn  they  should  be 
covered  with  leaves,  straw,  or  light  litter ;  this  should  be  taken 
off  in  the  spring,  and  the  ground  hoed  and  dressed  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  enliven  the  earth  around  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
and  to  give  the  whole  a  neat  appearance. 


FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

Arbrisseaux  <F  Ornement. 

Shrubs  are  so  closely  connected  with  flowering  plants,  and, 
indeed,  so  many  of  them  are  embellished  with  flowers,  that  they 
may  be  considered  as  essential  to  the  completion  of  an  orna- 
mental garden.  They  are  all  perennial,  and  are  divided  into 
two  classes,  deciduous  and  evergreen;  the  former  lose  their 
leaves  in  the  winter,  the  latter  only  shed  them  when  others  are 
ready  to  supply  their  places. 

Shrubs  are  not  only  necessary  to  the  embellishment  of  a 
flower-garden,  but  many  kinds  are  eligible  for  hedges  to  it,  and 
may  be  planted  at  a  trifling  expense.  These  hedges  should  be 
frequently  trimmed  and  trained,  the  sides  cut  even,  and  the 
tops  sparingly  clipped,  so  as  to  make  them  ornamental  as  well 
as  useful,  and  also  to  increase  the  vigor  of  their  growth. 
When  hedges  become  open  or  naked  at  the  bottom,  they  should 
be  plashed  down ;  this  is  done  by  cutting  the  branches  half 
through  near  the  ground ;  they  will  then  bend  easily,  and  may 
be  interwoven  with  the  adjoining  branches. 

When  shrubs,  creepers,  or  climbers  are  planted  against  walls 
or  trellises,  either  on  account  of  their  rarity,  delicacy,  or  to 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  43 

conceal  a  rough  fence,  or  other  unsightly  object,  they  require 
different  modes  of  training;  some  attach  themselves  naturally, 
as  the  Ivy,  and  merely  require  to  be  occasionally  guided,  so  as 
to  cause  a  regular  distribution  of  their  shoots ;  others  must  be 
treated  like  fruit-trees,  trained  thinly,  if  blossoms  are  the  object, 
and  rather  thick,  if  the  intention  be  to  show  the  foliage  to  the 
greatest  possible  advantage. 

Ornamental  shrubs  grow  from  one  foot  to  twelve  or  more 
feet  in  height;  and  where  such  are  planted  for  ornament,  the 
height  of  each  plant,  when  full  grown,  should  be  considered, 
and  also  the  mode  of  growth,  that  every  one  may  be  so  planted 
as  to  show  to  advantage,  observing  that  the  tall-growing  kinds 
should  be  planted  in  the  back  part  of  the  borders,  and  those 
of  low  growth  in  front ;  but  if  they  are  required  to  be  planted 
in  clumps,  they  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  rise  gradually  from 
the  sides  to  the  middle,  and  be  afterwards  neatly  trimmed. 

Shrubs  require  an  annual  pruning,  at  which  time  cut  out  all 
irregular  and  superfluous  branches,  and  head  down  such  as 
require  it,  forming  them  into  handsome  bushes.  Apply  stakes 
to  such  as  need  support,  and  see  that  the  low-growing  ones  do 
not  injure  each  other,  or  interfere  with  other  dwarfish  plants 
near  them. 

Many  kinds  of  shrubs  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  early  in 
the  spring,  but  are  more  commonly  propagated  by  suckers, 
layers,  or  cuttings.  Like  other  plants,  they  require  a  good 
soil,  which  should  be  manured  every  two  or  three  years,  and 
some  of  the  tender  kinds  should  have  some  protection  in 
winter. 

The  following  list  contains  the  most  of  those  usually  planted 
in  gardens  and  on  lawns.  These  will  afford  a  succession  of 
flowers  from  spring  until  autumn,  and  may  be  obtained  at  the 
nurseries  at  moderate  prices. 


44  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


CATALOGUE,  ETC. 

Amorphafruticosa,  Indigo  shrub,  produces  handsome  bunches 
of  purple  flowers  in  June  and  July. 

Amygdalus  nana,  Dwarf  double-flowering  Almond ;  a  very 
beautiful  shrub,  about  three  feet  high ;  blossoms  early  in  April. 

Aralia  spinosa,  or  Angelica  tree,  about  ten  feet  high ;  flowers 
in  very  large  bunches,  and  continues  a  long  while  in  bloom. 

Cytisus  Laburnum,  or  Golden  Chain  ;  a  most  elegant  shrub, 
producing  long  racemes  or  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in  June 
and  July;  there  are  two  kinds,  the  English  and  the  Scotch 
Laburnum.  The  Scotch  is  the  largest,  forming  a  pretty  large 
shrub ;  the  English  kind  is  greener,  more  compact,  and  by 
some  thought  to  be  the  handsomest ;  they  ought  to  be  in  every 
garden. 

Calycanthus  Floridus,  Allspice,  or  sweet-scented  shrub,  a 
native  of  the  Southern  States ;  the  flowers  are  of  a  very  dark 
chocolate  color,  and  the  fragrance  very  much  resembles  ripe 
strawberries ;  easily  kept  when  once  introduced.  This  shrub 
generally  grows  about  five  feet  high  in  gardens,  and  blossoms 
from  May  to  August. 

Ceanothus  Americanus,  Red  Root,  or  Jersey  Tea  tree;  a 
plant  or  two  in  the  collection,  as  it  flowers  in  profusion,  is 
worth  having. 

Cercis  siliquastrum,  or  Judas  tree.  The  flowers  appear  very 
early  in  the  spring,  before  the  leaves  come  out,  and  make  a 
fine  appearance ;  as  it  grows  rather  tall,  it  is  calculated  for  the 
back  row  of  the  shrubbery. 

Colutea  arborescens,  or  Bladder  Senna,  having  bunches  of 
yellow  flowers  in  June  and  July,  which  are  succeeded  by  seed 
in  a  kind  of  bladder ;  calculated  for  the  back  or  centre  row  of 
shrubberies. 

Cratcegus  oxyacantha,  the  Hawthorn.  Tt  makes  a  pretty 
appearance  planted  out  singly  in  the  back  or  centre  row ;  the 
flowers  are  very  fragrant ;  it  is  sometimes  called  the  Pride  of 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  45 

May ;  the  double  white,  double  scarlet,  and  single  scarlet 
Hawthorn,  are  very  beautiful,  and  ought  to  be  in  every  planta- 
tion. Hawthorn  hedges  are  much  used  in  England,  where 
they  look  very  handsome  when  clipped ;  but  they  do  not 
answer  so  well  in  this  country,  the  heat  of  our  summers  caus- 
ing the  leaves  to  fall  off  early,  often  in  July  ;  on  that  account 
they  are  not  much  used.  We  have  several  things  which  are 
better  calculated  for  that  purpose. 

Cydonia  Japonica,  or  Pyrus  Japonica,  a  very  beautiful  scar- 
let flowering  shrub,  from  Japan.  It  is  found  to  be  very  hardy, 
resisting  our  most  severe  frosts ;  it  flowers  very  early,  and  con- 
tinues a  long  time  in  bloom.  A  second  flowering  takes  place 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer.  It  is  every  way  a  desirable 
shrub. 

Daphne  mezcrion,  one  of  our  most  early  flowering  shrubs, 
which  blooms  freely  in  April  and  May,  and  is  very  sweet- 
scented.  It  is  rather  tender  in  some  situations,  but  will  stand 
our  ordinary  winters  very  well  in  a  sheltered  situation. 

Dirca  palustris,  or  Leather  Wood;  a  pretty  little  ehriib, 
growing  very  regular  in  shape,  and  has  the  appearance  of  a 
large  tree  in  miniature ;  it  is  a  native  of  our  Northern  States ; 
the  flowers,  which  appear  very  early  in  the  spring,  are  yellow, 
and  come  out  before  the  leaves. 

Gymnocladus  Canadensis,  or  Kentucky  Coffee  tree.  The 
berries  bear  a  resemblance  to  coffee,  and  are  said  to  be  a  good 
substitute  for  it ;  however,  it  is  a  beautiful  tree,  with  hand- 
some feathered  leaves,  and  makes  a  fine  contrast  with  others. 
It  should  be  planted  in  the  back  or  the  centre  of  the  planta- 
tion ;  it  is  very  hardy. 

Halesia  diptera,  and  Halesia  tetraptera,  two-winged  and 
four-winged  Silver  Bell,  or  Snow-drop  tree.  They  are  both 
natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  .are  perfectly  hardy  here ; 
our  most  severe  winters  do  not  injure  them.  The  former  kind 
flowers  in  April,  and  the  latter  withholds  its  blossoms  until 
May.  They  are  elegant  shrubs. 

Hibiscus  Syriacus,  fl.  pleno,  the  double   flowering  Althea 


46  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

frutex,  of  which  there  are  several  varieties ;  the  double  white, 
double  red,  double  red  and  white,  and  striped,  are  the  most 
showy ;  they  begin  to  flower  late  in  July,  and  continue  until 
autumn.  The  single  kind,  of  which  there  are  many  varieties, 
are  scarcely  worth  cultivating,  the  double  ones  being  raised 
quite  as  easily,  and  are  equally  hardy.  These  are  indispensa- 
ble in  every  plantation. 

Hypericum  frutescens,  Shrubby  Hypericum.  There  are  seve- 
ral species  of  this  small  but  beautiful  shrub,  all  natives  of  the 
Southern  States,  but  perfectly  hardy  here.  They  all  flower 
profusely  in  the  summer,  and  continue  for  a  long  time.  They 
should  be  planted  in  the  front  row. 

Kerria  Japonica,  or  Corchorus  Japonica,  yellow  Japan 
Globe  Flower ;  although  a  native  of  Japan,  like  many  other 
Japanese  flowers,  it  is  perfectly  hardy  here.  It  flowers  in  the 
greatest  profusion  at  all  times,  except  in  the  very  dead  of  win- 
ter, and  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation. 

Kcelreuteria  paniculata,  Japau  Bladder  tree,  or  Kcelroterius. 
This  is  another  hardy  shrub  from  Japan.  It  has  long  racemes 
of  flowers  succeeded  by  a  bladder-like  fruit,  and  is  worthy  of 
cultivation  in  every  good  collection. 

Ligustrum  vulgare,  virens,  large  European  Privet,  a  very 
handsome  evergreen  shrub,  flowering  profusely  in  June,  and 
producing  bunches  of  black  round  berries.  It  bears  slipping 
well,  and  is  therefore  very  suitable  for  hedges,  or  to  inclose 
ornamental  plantations.  It  grows  quick,  and  is  well  adapted 
to  our  climate.  When  planted  in  a  hedge-row,  and  kept  clip- 
ped, the  American  Privet  makes  a  beautiful  hedge,  and 
ought  to  be  in  more  general  use. 

Philadelphus  coronarius,  or  common  Synnga,  is  very  orna- 
mental, producing  its  sweet-scented  flowers  eany  in  the  spring, 
and  in  abundance. 

Philadelphus  inodorous,  and  P.  Grandiflorus,  Garland  Sy- 
ringa,  are  both  natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  quite  hardy 
here.  Their  flowers  are  large,  acd  continue  for  several  mouths, 
in  wreaths  or  garlands.  They  are  well  calculated  for  the  centre 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  47 

row,  and  also  to  hide  unsightly  objects,  and  have  a  beautiful 
effect  when  mixed  with  monthly  honeysuckles,  etc. 

Persica,  or  Amygdalus  Persica,  fl.  rosea  pleno,  or  double 
flowering  Peach,  is  very  beautiful  in  shrubberies.  It  blossoms 
early,  and  sometimes  bears  fruit,  but  it  is  cultivated  entirely 
for  its  beautiful  blossoms.  A  few  trees  of  the  Chinese  double 
flowering  Apple  (Pyrus  spectabilis)  have  also  a  beautiful  effect. 

Rhus  cotinus,  Venetian  Sumach,  Aaron's  Beard,  sometimes 
called  fringe-tree,  is  a  fine  shrub,  calculated  for  the  centre  of 
the  clump  or  shrubbery.  Its  large  branches  of  fringe  remain 
all  the  summer,  and  give  it  a  curious  and  striking  effect. 

Ribes  Missouriensis,  or  Missouri  Currant ;  there  are  two 
species  of  this  very  ornamental  shrub  from  Missouri,  introduced 
by  Lewis  and  Clarke ;  they  are  quite  hardy,  and  flower  profusely 
from  April  to  June. 

Robinia  glutinosot,  and  Robinia  hispida  ;  the  former  a  pretty 
large  shrub,  producing  fine  branches  of  flowers  in  great  abun- 
dance throughout  the  summer ;  the  latter  is  a  smaller  shrub  ; 
both  of  them  are,  however,  worthy  of  a  place  in  large  collections. 

Robinia  pseudo-acacia^  or  Yellow  Locust  tree.  This  tree  is 
introduced  here  rather  on  account  of  its  usefulness  than  beauty, 
though  the  latter  is  very  considerable.  The  timber  is  superior 
to  any  other  kind  of  wood  for  ship-trunnels,  mill-cogs,  and 
fence-posts,  as  well  as  for  various  other  purposes.  Its  culture 
is  very  easy,  and  may  be  propagated  in  great  abundance,  by 
sowing  the  seed  in  March,  April,  or  May,  in  a  bed  of  good 
sandy  loam,  which  is  its  favorite  soil,  and  covering  them  half 
an  inch  deep.  Previous  to  sowing,  put  the  seed  in  a  basin, 
pour  on  scalding  water,  and  let  it  stand  all  night ;  pick  out  such 
seed  as  are  swollen  and  plant  them  immediately  ;  next  evening 
repeat  the  same  process  with  such  as  did  not  swell  the  first  night, 
mix  the  whole  and  sow  them ;  they  will  come  up  in  the  course  of 
the  following  month  numerously ;  for  no  seed  grow  more  freely, 
notwithstanding  what  some  say  to  the  contrary.  When  the 
plants  are  a  year  old,  transplant  them  out  of  the  seed-bed  into 
nursery  rows,  four  feet  distant,  and  plant  from  plant  one  foot. 


48  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Having  had  two  or  three  years'  growth  on  these  rows,  they  maj 
be  planted  successfully  in  any  warm  and  tolerably  rich  sandy 
soil.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  suckers,  which  they 
throw  up  abundantly,  especially  if  some  of  the  wide-extending 
roots  be  cut  through  with  an  axe.  An  acre  of  these  trees, 
planted  at  two  feet  distant  each  way,  will  contain  10,890 ;  and 
four  feet  distant,  2,722  ;  and  it  is  said  that  no  appropriation  of 
land  is  more  lucrative  than  that  devoted  to  this  purpose.  The 
Three-thorned  Acacia  seed  (Gleditschid)  should  be  prepared  in 
the  same  manner. 

Rosa,  or  Roses,  a  very  numerous  variety  of  these ;  some 
reckon  five  or  six  hundred  kinds.  They  are  accounted  the 
most  beautiful  of  Flora's  productions.  Perhaps  a  handsome 
collection  might  be  made  out  of  about  fifty  of  the  best  sorts, 
which  by  taking  such  quantity  I  suppose  might  be  obtained 
at  about  fifty  cents  each,  under  name ;  and  generally,  a  fine 
collection  unnamed  at  half  that  amount.  No  good  garden  or 
shrubbery  should  be  without  them. 

Sorbus  aucuparia,  Mountain  Ash,  or  Roan  tree.  This  is  a  very 
beautiful  shrub  of  the  larger  size ;  the  leaves  are  ornamental ; 
the  flowers  and  fruit,  which  are  produced  in  large  bunches,  are 
beautiful ;  the  fruit  remains  till  late  in  the  autumn.  It  is  a 
native  of  Europe. 

Sorbus  Canadensis.  This  is  a  native  of  our  Northern  fron- 
tiers and  mountains,  but  it  does  not  grow  so  large  as  the 
former ;  the  berries  are  smaller  and  red,  the  former  larger  and 
of  an  orange  color ;  but  otherwise  much  resembles  it. 

Spartium  junceum,  Gentista,  etc.  Two  or  three  species  of 
Broom,  producing  numerous  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in  May 
and  June ;  the  Genista,  or  Spanish  Broom,  which  has  white 
flowers,  is  also  very  pretty,  but  not  quite  so  hardy  as  the 
former. 

Symphoria  racemosa,  or  Snow-berry,  sometimes  called  St. 
Peter's  Wort,  a  pretty  little  shrub ;  the  bunches  of  wax-like 
white  berries  which  it  produces  during  the  whole  summer 
give  it  a  beautiful  appearance. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  49 

Syringa  vulgaris,  or  common  Lilac,  blossoming  in  May,  is 
well  known  to  all,  and  needs  no  comment.  The  white  variety 
is  not  quite  so  common.  They  are  only  used  for  outside 
plantings,  as  they  sucker  very  freely,  and  soon  make  themselves 
common. 

Syringa  Persica,  or  Persian  Lilac,  is  a  delicate  low  shrub, 
the  flowers  very  abundant,  and  the  leaves  small  and  delicate. 
There  are  two  varieties  of  the  Persian  Lilac :  the  white  flow- 
ering, and  the  blue  or  purple  flowering. 

The  Chinese  cut-leaved  Lilac  is  very  curious  ;  the  leaves  are 
cut  like  Parsley,  the  flowers  growing  in  longer  racemes  than 
the  former. 

Siberian,  or  large  Persian  Lilac.  The  bunches  of  flowers 
are  very  large,  and  continue  in  bloom  a  long  time  after  the 
common  Lilac. 

Tamarix  Gallica,  or  French  Tamarix,  and  the  Tamarix  Ger- 
manica,  German  Tamarix,  are  two  pretty  shrubs ;  the  leaves 
and  branches  are  small  and  slender,  producing  quantities  of 
beautiful  flowers,  which  form  a  very  striking  contrast  to  the 
other  parts  of  the  shrubbery. 

Viburnum  opulus,  or  Guelder  Rose,  otherwise  called  Snow- 
ball, is  a  very  showy  shrub,  producing  large  balls  of  snow- 
white  flowers  in  May,  and  is  indispensably  necessary  to  every 
shrubbery. 

Vitex  agnus  castus,  or  Chaste  tree,  a  pretty  and  singular 
shrub,  flowering  the  most  part  of  the  summer. 


CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

Ampelopsis  hederacea.  This  plant,  on  account  of  the  large- 
ness of  its  leaves  and  rapidity  of  its  growth,  is  well  adapt- 
ed for  covering  walls.  There  are  several  species,  all  resem- 
bling the  vine  in  habit  and  flower. 

3 


50  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Aristolochia  sipho,  Birthwort,  or  Dutchman's  Pipe.  A  very 
curious  blooming  plant,  with  extraordinarily  large  foliage, 
well  calculated  for  an  arbor ;  affording  a  dense  and  cooling 
shade. 

Atragene  alpina.  A  free-growing  deciduous  shrub,  with 
small  pinnated  foliage,  and  large  blush-colored  flowers,  which 
continue  from  May  to  July. 

Bignonia  crucigera  is  a  desirable  evergreen,  being  of  a  luxu- 
riant growth.  It  will  cover  in  a  few  years  an  area  of  fifty 
feet,  and  bloom  from  May  to  August ;  color,  orange. 

Bignonia  radicans,  or  Trumpet  Creeper,  produces  large 
bunches  of  red  trumpet-shaped  flowers  in  July  and  August. 

Bignonia  grandiflora  is  much  like  the  former  in  habit  and 
appearance,  but  the  flowers  are  much  larger.  It  is  said  to  be 
a  native  of  China,  and  the  former  a  native  of  this  country. 
They  are  both  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  climb  up  brick-work 
or  wooden  fences,  without  any  assistance. 

Clematis,  or  Virgin's  Bower.  There  are  several  species, 
some  of  them  tender,  or  not  sufficiently  hardy  for  our  severe 
winters,  without  protection.  The  Clematis  azurea,  bicolor, 
and  flama,  are  splendid  varieties.  The  Clematis  Virginica, 
Viorna,  Viticelli,  and  Vitalba,  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  blos- 
som throughout  the  summer. 

Glycine  Sinensis,  or  Wistaria  Sinensis,  is  a  handsome  Chi- 
nese Creeper  of  recent  introduction  from  China,  and  is  not  yet 
common  in  our  nurseries.  It  is  a  beautiful  vine,  running  to  a 
great  height,  and  loaded  with  long  racemes  of  purple  flowers 
throughout  the  summer. 

Glycine  frutescens,  or  Wistaria  frutescens.  This  beautiful 
brother  of  the  Chinese  kind  is  a  native  of  our  Southern  States, 
grows  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  others,  and  is,  perhaps, 
not  inferior.  Although  this  fine  creeper  has  been  long  known 
in  England,  we  have  not  heard  much  about  it  by  English 
writers ;  the  conclusion  seems  to  be  that  it  does  not  flower 
well  in  England.  In  fact  none  of  our  Southern  plants  do  well 
in  that  country,  while  those  from  China  do  very  well ;  here, 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  51 

however,  it  is  quite  the  reverse.  I  have  the  Chinese  Wistaria 
Sinensis  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  and  the  American 
Wistaria  about  the  same  height.  The  Chinese  does  not  look 
so  vigorous  and  green  as  his  American  brother.  The  Ameri- 
can Wistaria  should  be  planted  in  every  garden  with  other 
creepers,  or  to  run  up  the  trees  in  shrubberies,  according  to  its 
natural  habit. 

Hedera  Helix,  Irish  Ivy,  is  a  desirable  evergreen  for  cover- 
ing naked  walls,  or  any  other  unsightly  object.  The  leaves 
are  of  a  lively  green,  and  from  three  to  five  angled.  There  are 
several  varieties  of  it,  all  calculated  for  growing  in  con- 
fined, shady  situations,  where  plants  in  general  will  not 
thrive. 

Jasminum  officinale,  Garden  Jasmine.  This  delicious  climb- 
ing shrub  has  from  time  immemorial  been  common  in  Europe 
for  covering  arbors.  Its  delicate  white  fragrant  flowers 
render  it  very  desirable ;  but  it  is  rather  tender  for  our 
Northern  winters,  unless  well  protected.  In  the  Southern 
States,  this  plant,  and  also  the  yellow  Jasmine  (revolutum), 
grow  luxuriantly  and  bloom  profusely,  and  even  Jasminum 
grandiflora  will  endure  the  winters  of  South  Carolina  and 
Georgia. 

Lonicera,  comprehending  all  the  fine  sweet-scented  honey- 
suckles. Of  the  Italian  kinds,  the  monthly  honeysuckle  is 
decidedly  superior,  continuing  to  flower  all  through  the  sum- 
mer, until  late  in  autumn,  and  is  very  fragrant.  Some  of  the 
other  European  kinds  may  be  occasionally  introduced  into 
large  shrubberies.  There  is  a  white  honeysuckle,  lately  intro- 
duced from  France,  denominated  Hedysarum  coronarium, 
which  is  in  great  repute.  Two  or  three  American  kinds 
deserve  particular  notice. 

Lonicera  sempervirens,  or  Coral  Trumpet,  monthly  honey- 
suckle, is  extremely  beautiful,  flowering  the  whole  of  the 
summer,  with  its  thousands  of  scarlet  bunches ;  it  is,  however, 
destitute  of  scent. 

Lonicera  Fraseri,  also  an  American ;  the  flowers  are  like  the 


52  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

other  kind  in  almost  every  particular  except  color,  this  being 
a  bright  yellow. 

Lonicera  pubescens,  or  Caprifolium  pubescens,  a  large  and 
beautiful  honeysuckle  from  the  North-west  coast ;  the  flowers 
are  large,  and  of  a  bright  copper  color,  inclining  to  orange. 
They  are  all  perfectly  hardy. 

Lonicera  flexuosa,  Chinese  Honeysuckle,  of  late  introduction ; 
it  is  perfectly  hardy,  withstanding  our  most  severe  frosts  with- 
out the  least  injury ;  it  is  a  very  sweet-scented  honeysuckle, 
grows  rapidly,  and  to  an  immense  height.  It  flowers  in  pairs 
and  threes  all  up  the  branches,  covering  the  whole  plant  com- 
pletely with  flowers.  It  blossoms  in  spring  and  autumn,  and  is 
a  very  valuable  acquisition  to  our  gardens  and  shrubberies. 

Lonicera  Japonica,  or  Japan  Honeysuckle.  This  bears 
flowers  in  great  profusion,  which  are  white,  afterwards  becoming 
of  a  light  yellow.  It  is  not  so  hardy  as  the  Chinese,  and 
requires  a  little  protection  in  the  winter. 

Passiflora,  or  Passion  Vine.  There  are  several  hardy  species, 
but  the  best  is  the  Passiflora  incarnata ;  this,  although  it  dies 
to  the  ground  every  winter,  will,  during  the  summer,  grow 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  and  yield  abundance  of  beautiful 
purple  flowers. 

Periplaca  grceca,  or  Silk  Vine.  A  prolific  climber;  wood 
slender,  twining,  and  elastic ;  leaves  smooth,  ovate,  lanceolate. 
Established  plants  will  grow  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  one  season, 
and  yield  flowers  in  clusters,  of  a  brownish-yellow  color,  from 
May  to  July. 

I  shall  only  add  to  the  above  the  running  kind  of  Roses ; 
although  there  are  many  other  things  which  might  be  men- 
tioned. 

Rosa  multiflora,  from  China,  is  pretty  well  known,  pro- 
ducing thousands  of  small  double  red  roses  in  bunches.  It 
requires  a  sheltered  situation  from  some  of  our  keen  north- 
westers. Rosa  multiflora  alba,  from  the  same  country,  is  of 
late  importation,  but  as  it  increases  readily  may  be  obtained 
at  about  the  same  price  as  the  former ;  the  bunches  of  flowers 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  53 

are  white.  Rosa  Grevillia,  a  running  rose,  also  from  China, 
the  flowers  of  various  colors.  Rosa  rubifolia,  Easpberry-leaved 
Rose,  from  our  Northern  frontiers,  and  extending  over  the 
Western  country ;  although  a  single  flowering  rose,  it  produces 
large  bunches  of  flowers,  which  are  differently  colored  on  the 
same  bunch,  exactly  like  the  former  China  kind,  and  is  another 
instance  of  the  similarity  of  the  native  Chinese  plants  to  those 
of  our  country. 

Rosa  canina,  fl.  pleno,  English  double  Dog  Rose,  is  a  very 
pretty  little  double  rose,  and  will  run  to  a  great  height.  Rosa 
JBanksii,  Lady  Banks's  double  white  China  running  Rose ;  it 
runs  up  and  spreads  much:  it  may  be  easily  known  from 
others  of  the  running  roses,  by  its  being  entirely  destitute  of 
prickles.  Rosa  Noisette,  and  Champney's,  are  said  to  have  been 
raised  from  China  seed  in  Carolina ;  they  are  not  strictly  run- 
ning roses,  but  as  they  grow  tall  are  fine  ornaments  for  the 
shrubbery,  flowering  during  the  whole  of  the  summer  and 
autumn,  in  large  clusters.  The  Madeira  Rose,  or  double  white 
cluster,  musk,  flowers  throughout  the  summer  and  autumn 
months,  and  is  therefore  well  adapted  for  the  shrubbery.  Rosa 
Cherokensis,  called  the  Nondescript,  or  Georgia  Rose;  the 
flowers  are  very  large,  being  white,  with  yellow  centre.  This 
is  a  running  rose,  growing  very  high  around  trees,  etc. 

Rosa  rubiginosa,  or  Sweetbrier,  is  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 


PROPAGATION  OF  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

Flowering  shrubs  are  variously  propagated  by  slips,  cut- 
tings, layers,  suckers,  buds,  or  scions;  and  these  may  be  thus 
defined : 

1.  Slips  are  simply  small  branches,  slipped  down  from  the 
side  of  a  large  branch,  or  from  the  main  stem.  These  should 


54  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

be  taken  from  the  parent  plants  carefully,  so  as  to  leave  an  eye 
or  heel  at  the  lower  or  butt  end. 

2.  Cuttings  should  be  made  from  shoots  or  stalks  of  a  prior 
year's  growth  ;  and  such  should  be  selected  as  are  well  ripened, 
having  their  joints  not  far  apart :  they  may  be  cut  so  as  to  have 
three  or  four  joints  in  each  cutting.     In  some  species  of  succu- 
lent plants,  the  joints  being  near  together,  cuttings  need  not  be 
more  than  from  four  to  six  inches  long ;  but  shrubby  plants  in 
general  will  admit  of  their  being  from  ten  to  twelve  inches. 

3.  Layers  differ  Jfrom  cuttings  in  nothing,  except  that  they 
strike  root  into  the  soil,  while  yet  adhering  to  the  parent  plant. 

4.  Suckers  are  in  reality  young   plants,   connected  to  the 
parent  at  the  root,  which  should  be  carefully  separated  in 
spring  or  autumn,  and  transplanted  in  the  same  manner  as 
plants  raised  by  any  other  method ;  either  in  a  nursery-bed, 
shrubbery,  or  flower-border. 

5.  Scions  are  of  two  sorts :  scions  properly  so  called,  and 
buds.    A  scion  is  a  cutting,  or  portion  of  a  plant,  which  is  caused 
to  grow  upon  another  plant,  from  which  it  extracts  fluid  for  the 
nourishment  of  its  leaf-buds ;  these  thus  fed  gradually  grow 
upwards  into  branches,  and  send  woody  matter  downwards,  so 
as   to   become   connected  with   the  stock   grafted  on.     The 
business  of  planting  slips,  cuttings,  etc.,  of  the  tender  kinds 
into  nursery  pots,  and  the  hardy  kinds  into  borders,  is  generally 
performed  in  spring  and  autumn. 


MANAGEMENT  OF  HARDY  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

For  the  purpose  of  raising  hardy  flowering  shrubs  by  slips 
or  cuttings,  let  a  border  be  prepared  in  a  shaded  and  sheltered 
situation,  by  manuring  and  deep  digging.  Provide  cuttings 
about  a  foot  long,  and  insert  them  into  the  ground  full  one-third 
of  their  length ;  the  rows  may  be  about  two  feet  apart,  and  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  55 

cuttings  nine  inches  from  each  other  in  the  rows.  Press  the 
ground  around  the  stems,  and  rake  it  smooth.  The  after- 
management  of  nursery-beds,  made  in  spring,  is  to  keep  them 
watered  in  dry  weather,  hoe  them  occasionally,  and  by  autumn 
the  cuttings  will  be  rooted. 

In  cold  climates,  plantations  made  in  autumn  should  be  pro- 
tected by  a  covering  of  leaves,  straw,  or  litter,  merely  sufficient 
to  screen  the  plants  from  wind  and  the  sun's  rays  in  time  of 
freezing,  the  heat  of  the  sun  being  more  destructive  to  vegeta- 
tion in  winter  than  the  cold  weather. 

To  increase  flowering  shrubs,  rose  bushes,  or  any  other  plants, 
by  layers,  dig  the  ground  about  the  plants  to  be  operated  on  to 
a  good  depth ;  then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  between  two  joints 
half  through  the  stalk  or  branch  on  the  under  part,  turn  the 
edge  of  the  knife  upwards  and  make  a  slit,  carrying  it  past  the 
first  joint  half  way  to  the  next  above ;  make  a  hollow  in  the 
ground,  and  insert  the  cut  part  from  one  to  three  inches  deep, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  plant  operated  on,  keeping  the 
branch  perpendicular,  and  the  slit  open.  Each  layer  should  be 
pegged  down  with  a  hooked  stick,  made  from  small  branches 
of  trees,  to  keep  it  in  its  proper  position,  as  well  as  to  prevent 
the  cut  part  from  uniting  where  the  roots  form  for  the  young 
plants. 


BUDDING,  GRAFTING,  AND  INARCHING. 

Budding,  grafting,  and  inarching  are  often  practised  on 
shrubs,  with  a  view  to  perpetuate  improved  varieties.  Bud- 
ding may  be  performed  on  roses  of  different  descriptions,  as 
the  White  Moss,  Unique,  Tuscany,  and  other  fine  varieties, 
upon  such  wild  kinds  as  are  of  a  strong  habit.  The  best  time 
for  performing  the  operation  is  towards  the  end  of  July  or 
early  in  August,  as  the  buds  are  then  generally  matured  so 


56  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

that  the  bark  parts  freely  from  the  wood,  which  is  essential  to 
the  successful  accomplishment  of  the  business. 

Grafting  is  generally  performed  in  the  spring.  There  are 
many  methods  practised  on  trees,  as  cleft  grafting,  whip  graft- 
ing, saddle  grafting,  side  grafting,  root  grafting,  inarching,  or 
grafting  by  approach,  etc.,  which  methods  are  all  fully 
explained  under  the  head  of  "  Budding  and  Grafting,"  in  the 
fruit  department.  I  shall,  however,  here  present  a  short  view 
of  the  mode  best  adapted  for  shrubs. 

Scallop  budding  is  performed  by  cutting  from  a  small  stock 
a  thin  narrow  scallop  of  wood,  about  an  inch  in  length,  and 
taking  from  the  chosen  twig  a  thin  scallop  of  wood  of  the  same 
dimensions;  this  is  instantly  applied,  and  fitted  perfectly  at 
top  and  bottom,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  on  its  sides,  and 
firmly  bound  with  bass  matting.  This  may  be  performed  in 
spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it  may  be  repeated  in  the  month  of 
July.  The  French  practise  this  mode  on  Roses. 

The  most  simple  method  of  grafting  is  to  cut  off  the  stock 
in  a  wedge-like  manner;  then  prepare  a  graft  having  three  or 
four  eyes  ;  proceed  to  cut  a  slit  in  it  upwards,  and  thrust  it  on 
the  stock,  taking  care  to  join  the  bark  of  each  together  ;  tie 
them  firmly  together  with  bass,  and  immediately  cover  the 
grafted  part  with  clay  and  horse-dung  mixed;  which,  being 
well  prepared,  should  be  closed  securely  round  the  graft  in  an 
oval  form. 

Inarching,  or  grafting  by  approach,  may  be  performed  as 
follows  :  The  shrubs  to  be  grafted  must  be  growing  very  near 
to  those  which  are  to  furnish  the  grafts ;  a  branch  of  each 
must  then  be  prepared  by  making  a  long  sloping  cut  nearly  to 
its  centre  ;  the  two  must  be  brought  together,  and  secured  by 
a  bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the  bark  may  meet  as  nearly  as 
possible.  The  graft  may  then  be  covered  with  clay  composi- 
tion ;  and  when  a  complete  union  has  taken  place,  the  plants 
may  be  separated  with  a  sharp  knife,  by  cutting  off  below  the 
junction. 

As  the  above  directions  are  applicable  to  the  propagation 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  57 

and  management  of  green-house,  tender,  and  half-hardy  plants 
as  well  as  to  hardy  shrubs  and  vines,  it  may  be  necessary  here 
to  remind  the  reader  that  delicate  roses  and  half-hardy  woody 
plants  left  out  during  the  winter  should  be  protected  either  by 
bending  down  the  branches  and  covering  them  with  soil,  or  by 
tying  them  up  to  stakes,  and  binding  straw  snugly  around 
them.  At  the  same  time  throw  some  dung  on  the  ground 
about  the  roots  ;  the  longest  of  which  may  be  raked  off  on  the 
approach  of  spring,  and  the  shortest  forked  in,  so  as  to  manure 
the  plants,  and  thus  give  vigor  to  their  rising  shoots. 


TRANSPLANTING  DECIDUOUS  PLANTS. 

Deciduous  shrubs  may  be  transplanted  at  any  time  after 
they  lose  their  leaves,  and  before  the  buds  begin  to  expand  in 
spring,  provided  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condition 
to  receive  them  ;  the  holes  should  be  dug  capacious  enough  to 
hold  the  roots  without  cramping  them,  and  some  earth,  well 
pulverized,  must  be  thrown  equally  among  the  fibres  of  the 
roots,  which  should  be  well  shaken,  and  the  earth  trodden 
down  around  the  plants,  until  brought  to  the  level  required. 
Evergreens  should  be  removed  carefully  with  a  ball  of  earth 
connected  with  their  roots,  and  some  good  mould  should  be 
provided  to  fill  in  with. 

The  spring  pruning  of  shrubs  and  vines  should  be  attended 
to  before  the  buds  begin  to  rise  ;  say  March  in  the  Northern, 
and  January  in  the  Southern  States.  In  performing  this  busi- 
ness, use  a  sharp  knife,  in  order  that  all  amputations  and 
wounds  be  cut  and  pared  smooth,  and  in  a  slanting  manner. 
Divest  the  plants  of  all  dead  wood,  superfluous  branches,  and 
those  which  cross  each  other.  Regulate  the  plantation  in  such 
manner  that  the  natural  form  and  habit  of  each  plant  may  be 
retained  as  much  as  possible,  and  train  the  branches  so  that  the 
sun  can  have  free  access  to  every  part ;  bearing  in  mind  the  hints 

3* 


58  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

< 

thrown  out  in  the  Introduction  to  our  Catalogue.  Some  shrubs 
and  vines  will  need  a  summer  pruning,  merely  to  thin  out 
young  shoots,  superfluous  wood,  etc.,  and  to  train  straggling 
branches. 


THE  CULTIVATION  OF  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS- 
ROOTED  PLANTS. 

These  plants  exhibit  a  striking  variety  of  the  beauties  of 
Nature.  It  would  seem  as  if  every  change  she  is  capable  of 
forming  was  included  in  the  radiant  colors  of  the  Tulip. 
Never  was  a  cup  either  painted  or  enamelled  with  such  a  pro- 
fusion of  tints.  Its  stripes  are  so  glowing,  its  contrasts  so 
strong,  and  the  arrangement  of  them  both  so  elegant  and  artful, 
that  it  may,  with  propriety,  be  denominated  the  reigning  beauty 
of  the  garden  in  its  season.  The  Hyacinth  is  also  an  estima- 
ble flower  for  its  blooming  complexion,  as  well  as  for  its  most 
agreeable  perfume  and  variety. 

The  Double  Dahlia,  in  its  numerous  varieties,  is  inconceiva- 
bly splendid*  It  was  only  at  the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth 
century  that  the  first  of  these,  which  were  single,  were  intro- 
duced into  Europe  from  Mexico. 

Double  Dahlias  of  three  colors  were  first  known  in  the  year 
1 802,  and  since  that  time  the  varieties  have  increased  so  rapidly, 
that  those  which  a  few  years  ago  were  considered  beautiful  are 
now  thrown  away  to  give  place  to  the  more  beautiful  sorts.  I 
have  good  authority  for  stating  that  upwards  of  twenty  thou- 
sand seedlings  are  raised  yearly  in  England,  only  a  few  of 
which  are  introduced  into  the  collections  of  amateurs,  to  take 
the  place  of  such  old  sorts  as  may  from  time  to  time  be  reject 
ed.  This  is  done,  in  order  that  none  but  the  very  choicest  may 
be  retained  in  such  collections. 

In  some  gardens  in  Holland,  they  cultivate,  by  distinct  names, 
about  eleven  hundred  varieties  of  Tulips,  thirteen  hundred  of 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  59 

Hyacinths,  and  six  hundred  of  Ranunculuses  and  Anemones, 
some  of  which  are  sold  as  high  as  sixty  dollars  the  single  root. 
It  is  stated  in  the  travels  of  Mr.  Dutens,  of  his  having  known 
ten  thousand  florins,  equal  to  $4,000,  refused  for  a  single  Hya- 
cinth ;  and  Dodsley  says,  in  his  Annual  Register  for  1765,  that 
the  Dutch  of  all  ranks,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  during 
the  years  from  1634  to  1637  inclusive,  neglected  their  business 
to  engage  in  the  Tulip  trade.  Accordingly  in  those  days  the 
Viceroy  was  sold  for  £250,  the  Admiral  Lie/keens  for  £440, 
and  the  Semper  Augustus  at  from  £500  to  £1,000  each;  and 
a  collection  of  Tulips  was  sold  by  the  executors  of  one  Wouter 
Broekholsmentser  for  £9,000.  It  is  stated  that  in  one  city  in 
Holland,  in  the  space  of  three  years,  they  had  traded  for  a 
million  sterling  in  Tulips. 

DIFFERENCE    BETWEEN    BULBOUS    ROOTS    AND    HYACINTHS. 

"  The  Hyacinth,  purple,  white,  and  blue, 
Which  flung  from  its  bells  a  sweet  peal  anew, 
Of  music  so  delicate,  soft,  intense, 
It  was  felt  like  an  odor  within  the  sense." 

It  may  here  be  necessary  to  define  the  difference  between 
bulbous  and  tuberous  roots.  Those  designated  bulbous  have 
skins  similar  to  Onions,  or  the  Allium  tribe ;  and  tuberous 
roots  imply  all  such  as  produce  tubers  something  similar  to 
Potatoes. 

The  soil  for  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots  in  general  should  be 
light,  and  yet  capable  of  retaining  moisture  ;  not  such  as  is  liable 
to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that,  in  consequence  of  too 
large  a  portion  of  sand,  is  likely  to  become  excessively  hot  in 
summer ;  but  a  medium  earth  between  the  two  extremes.  As 
many  city  gardens  do  not  contain  a  natural  soil  of  any  depth, 
a  suitable  compost  should  be  provided  in  such  cases,  which 
may  consist  of  equal  parts  of  sand,  loam,  rotten  manure, 
mould,  etc. 

When  ready,  the  beds  may  be  laid  out,  from  three  to  foui 
feet  wide,  and  they  should  be  raised  two  or  three  inches  above 


60  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

the  level  of  the  walks,  which  will  give  an  opportunity  for  all 
superfluous  moisture  to  run  off.  Let  the  beds  thus  formed  be 
pulverized  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches ;  and  at 
the  time  of  planting,  let  a  small  quantity  of  beach  sand  be 
strewed  in  the  apertures  or  trenches  prepared  for  the  roots  to 
grow  in,  both  before  and  after  placing  them  therein,  which  will 
prove  beneficial. 

A  southern  exposure,  dry  and  airy,  and  sheltered  from  the 
north-west  winds,  is  preferable  for  most  bulbs.  But  Anemones 
and  Ranunculuses  should  be  in  some  measure  sheltered  from  the 
intense  heat  of  noon.  Buds  of  hardy  bulbous  and  tuberous 
roots  should  be  covered  on  the  approach  of  winter  with  litter, 
leaves,  straw,  or  such  earth  as  is  formed  by  the  decay  of  leaves, 
to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  inches,  as  it  prevents  any  ill  effects 
which  a  severe  season  may  have  on  the  roots ;  but  it  should  be 
carefully  raked  off  in  the  spring. 


MANAGEMENT    OF    BULBOUS    ROOTS. 

Bulbous  roots  in  general  should  be  taken  up  in  about  a 
month  or  six  weeks  after  the  bloom  is  exhausted,  or  when  the 
foliage  is  about  half  decayed.  If  fine  warm  weather,  the  bulbs 
may  be  dried  on  the  beds  they  grow  on,  by  placing  them  in 
separate  rows,  being  careful  not  to  mix  the  several  varieties. 
To  prevent  such  an  accident,  labels  may  be  affixed  to,  or 
placed  in,  the  ground  opposite  each  bulb.  They  will  keep 
much  better  when  dried  gradually.  To  this  end,  a  little  dry 
earth  may  be  shaken  over  them,  to  screen  them  from  the  heat 
of  the  sun.  If  it  should  rain  before  they  get  dry,  take  them 
in,  or  cover  them  with  boards.  When  dry,  clear  them  of  the 
fibres  and  stems,  and  then  put  them  away  in  dry  sand ;  or  if 
wrapped  in  paper,  they  may  be  kept  in  boxes  or  drawers  until 
the  season  of  planting  returns. 

The  tender  tuberous  roots,  such  as  Dahlias,  will  have  to  be 
taken  up  before  the  cold  becomes  severe.  As  the  Dahlia 
exhibits  its  flowers  in  all  their  splendor,  until  nipped  by  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  61 

frost,  the  roots  ought,  in  the  event  of  a  very  sudden  attack, 
to  be  secured  from  its  blighting  effects.  They  are  not  apt  to 
keep  well  if  taken  up  before  they  are  ripened.  The  tops 
should  therefore  be  cut  down  as  soon  as  they  have  done 
flowering ;  and  the  ground  covered  around  the  roots  with  dung 
or  litter.  This  will  enable  them  to  ripen  without  being  injured 
by  frost ;  and  in  about  a  week  after  being  cut  down,  or  on  the 
appearance  of  severe  weather,  they  should  be  dug  up  and 
packed  in  dry  sand,  and  then  stowed  away  in  a  dry  place  out 
of  the  reach  of  frost.  The  temperature  suited  to  keep  green- 
house plants  will  preserve  them  in  good  order. 

WINTER   MANAGEMENT    OF   BULBS. 

Some  people  complain  of  the  difficulty  of  keeping  Dahlia 
roots  through  the  winter.  I  am  of  opinion  that  they  are  often 
killed  from  being  taken  up  before  they  are  ripe,  and  then  put 
in  a  confined,  damp  place ;  or  are  by  some,  perhaps,  subjected 
to  the  other  extreme,  and  dried  to  a  husk.  I  keep  mine  on 
shelves  in  the  green-house,  and  seldom  lose  one  in  a  hundred. 
If  it  be  an  object  with  the  cultivator  to  have  the  names  perpe- 
tuated from  year  to  year,  each  plant  should  have  a  small  label 
affixed  to  the  old  stalk,  by  means  of  small  brass  or  copper 
wire,  as  twine  is  very  apt  to  get  rotten. 

Cape  bulbs,  and  such  tuberous  roots  as  are  cultivated  in 
pots,  on  account  of  their  tenderness,  should  be  kept  dry  after 
the  foliage  is  decayed,  until  within  about  a  month  of  their 
period  of  regerminating,  at  which  time  they  should,  after 
having  been  deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets,  be  repotted  in 
good  fresh  earth. 

There  are  some  descriptions  of  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots 
that  need  not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three 
years,  and  then  only  to  deprive  them  of  their  young  offsets, 
and  to  manure  the  ground.  These  will  be  described  hereafter, 
under  their  different  heads. 

In  the  articles  which  follow,  I  have  named  the  preferable 


62  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

season  for  planting  the  various  kinds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous 
roots ;  but  as  some  bulbs  will  keep  in  good  condition  several 
months,  there  can  be  no  objection  to  retaining  such  out  of  the 
ground,  to  suit  any  particular  purpose  or  convenience. 


AMARYLLIS— HOW  TO  CULTIVATE. 

Of  this  genus  of  flowering  bulbs  there  are  about  eighty 
species,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  varieties ;  they  are 
natives  of  South  America,  and  in  Europe  are  generally  kept  in 
the  hot-house ;  some  of  the  varieties  are  hybrids,  produced  by 
cultivation  ;  these  succeed  very  well  in  the  green-house,  and  in 
this  country  we  frequently  have  very  perfect  flowers  in  the 
borders.  A  few  of  the  choicest  varieties  are  as  follows : 

Amaryllis  Aulica,  or  Crowned  Amaryllis,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful ;  it  produces  four  flowers,  about  seven  inches  in  dia- 
meter, on  an  erect  stem,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  high,  with 
six  petals  of  green,  crimson,  and  fine  transparent  red  colors. 

A.  Ballota  produces  three  or  four  rich  scarlet  flowers  on  the 
stem,  each  about  five  inches  in  diameter;  there  are  two  or 
three  varieties  of  this  species,  all  beautiful. 

A.  Johnsoniensis.  The  stem  of  this  variety  rises  about  two 
feet,  and  exhibits  four  beautiful  scarlet  flowers,  with  a  white 
streak  in  the  centre  of  each  petal,  each  flower  about  six  inches 
in  diameter.  It  sometimes  produces  two  stems. 

A.  Longifolia,  or  Crinum  Capense,  is  perfectly  hardy ;  it 
flowers  in  large  umbels  of  a  pink  color,  inclining  to  white,  and 
is  a  good  garden  variety. 

Amaryllis  formositssima,  or  Jacobean  Lily,  produces  a  flower 
of  great  beauty ;  although  a  low-priced  plant,  it  throws  out 
gracefully  its  glittering  crimson-colored  petals,  which  have  a 
brilliancy  almost  too  intense  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon. 

The  A.  Lutea  produces  its  bright  yellow  flowers  in  October, 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  63 

in  the  open  air ;  but  the  bulb  requires  a  little  protection  in 
winter,  or  it  may  perish. 

The  most  suitable  soil  for  the  Amaryllis  is  a  clean  new  earth, 
taken  from  under  fresh  grass  sods,  mixed  with  sand  and  leaf 
mould ;  the  latter  ingredient  should  form  about  a  third  of  the 
whole,  and  the  sand  about  a  sixth.  Some  of  the  varieties  may 
be  planted  in  pots  during  -the  month  of  April,  and  others  will 
do  very  well  in  the  open  ground,  if  planted  early  in  May,  in  a 
sunny  situation.  The  bulb  should  not  be  set  more  than  half 
its  depth  in  the  ground ;  as,  if  planted  too  deep,  it  will  not 
bloom;  the  plant  deriving  its  nourishment  only  from  the 
fibres.  When  the  bulbs  have  done  flowering,  such  as  are  in 
pots  should  be  watered  very  sparingly,  so  that  they  may  be 
perfectly  ripened,  which  will  cause  them  to  shoot  stronger  in 
the  ensuing  season,  and  those  in  the  ground  should  be  taken 
up,  and  preserved  in  sand  or  paper. 


ANEMONE  AND  RANUNCULUS. 

These  are  medium,  or  half-hardy  roots,  producing  beautiful 
little  flowers  of  various  hues,  and  are  highly  deserving  of  cul- 
tivation. The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  fresh,  well  pulver- 
ized, loamy  soil,  enriched  with  cow-dung.  If  planted  in  the 
garden,  the  beds  ought  not  to  be  raised  above  one  inch  higher 
than  the  alleys,  and  the  surface  should  be  level,  as  it  is  neces- 
sary for  the  prosperity  of  these  plants  rather  to  retain  than  to 
throw  off  moisture.  The  plants  will  generally  survive  our  win- 
ters; but  it  is  always  safest  to  plant  them  in  such  a  manner 
that  a  temporary  frame  of  boards  can  be  placed  over  them 
when  the  weather  sets  in  severe ;  and  if  they  are  to  be  shaded 
while  in  flower,  the  posts  intended  for  the  awning  may  be 
fixed  in  the  ground  at  the  same  time ;  these  will  serve  to  nail 
the  boards  to,  and  thus  answer  two  purposes. 


64  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Anemones  and  Ranunculuses  may  be  planted  during  October 
or  November,  in  drills  two  inches  deep  and  six  inches  apart ; 
the  roots  should  be  placed  with  claws  downwards,  about  four 
inches  distant  from  each  other,  and  covered  up,  leaving  the 
bed  quite  level.  The  awning  need  not  be  erected  over  the 
beds  until  they  come  into  bud,  which  will  be  early  in  May. 
The  extreme  heat  of  the  American  climate  is,  however,  unfa- 
vorable to  the  perfect  development  of  their  beautiful  blossoms 
in  ordinary  seasons,  even  when  shaded. 


CROCUS. 

These  are  hardy  little  bulbs,  said  to  be  natives  of  Switzer- 
land. There  are  in  all  about  fifty  varieties  of  this  humble,  yet 
beautiful  plant,  embracing  a  great  variety  of  hues  and  com- 
plexions, and  their  hardiness,  and  earliness  of  flower,  offer  a 
strong  motive  for.  their  cultivation.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted 
in  October  or  November,  in  rows  about  six  inches  from  the 
edgings ;  if  in  beds,  they  may  be  placed  in  ranks  of  distinct 
colors,  about  four  inches  apart,  and  from  one  to  two  deep, 
which  will  afford  to  their  admirers  considerable  amusement 
and  gratification,  and  that  at  a  very  early  season.  They  are 
generally  in  full  perfection  early  in  April. 


CROWN  IMPERIAL. 

This  is  a  species  of  the  genus  Fritillaria,  of  which  there 
are  about  twenty  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives  of  Per- 
sia. These  squamose  bulbs  produce  tall,  luxuriant  stems,  em- 
bellished with  green  glossy  foliage,  and  flowers  of  various 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  65 

hues ;  but  there  are  only  a  few  of  the  most  curious  cultivated, 
perhaps  on  account  of  their  odor,  which  to  some  persons  is 
disagreeable.  They  are,  however,  very  hardy,  and  produce 
singular  and  showy  flowers  in  April  and  May,  suited  to  make 
variety  in  the  flower  borders,  in  which  they  may  be  planted 
in  August  and  September,  from  three  to  four  inches  deep. 
They  need  not  be  taken  up  every  year  as  other  bulbs ;  and 
when  they  are,  which  may  be  about  every  third  year,  they 
ought  not  to  be  retained  too  long  out  of  the  ground  before 
they  are  replanted. 


COLCHICUM. 

This  curious  little  bulb,  being  planted  in  the  month  of  June, 
about  two  inches  deep,  produces  its  flowers  in  October.  It 
then  dies,  without  leaving  any  external  appearance  of  seed ; 
the  vital  energies,  however,  lie  buried  in  the  bulb  all  the  win- 
ter, and  in  the  spring  produce  a  stalk  with  seeds,  which  get 
ripe  by  the  first  of  June,  just  in  time  to  plant  for  flowering  in 
the  ensuing  autumn.  How  wonderful  are  the  provisions  of 
Nature  ! 


CYCLAMEN. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Persian  Cyclamen  which 
are  worthy  of  cultivation  in  pots.  The  varieties  Coum  and 
Persicum  will  bloom  in  a  green-house,  or  warm  room,  from 
January  to  April,  if  planted  in  good,  light  compost  early  in 
September.  The  foliage  of  these  plants  is  of  a  dark  green 
velvet  color;  and  the  flowers  of  the  variety  Coum  are  of  a 


66  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

dark  crimson  color.  Those  of  the  variety  Persicum  are  of  a 
delicate  French  white,  tipped  with  pink ;  and  their  fragrance 
is  similar  to  that  of  the  wild  rose. 


DOUBLE  DAHLIA. 

This  may,  with  propriety,  be  denominated  one  of  the  most 
important  perennial  tuberous-rooted  plants  that  can  be  intro- 
duced into  a  garden ;  and  from  the  circumstance  of  its  having 
become  so  fashionable,  of  late  years,  I  have  felt  anxious  to 
furnish,  in  this  work,  a  catalogue  of  all  the  choicest  varieties 
attainable.  I  therefore  applied  for  this  purpose  to  Mr.  G.  C. 
Thorburn,  51  John  street,  New  York  city,  who,  from  a  regu- 
lar correspondence  with  connoisseurs,  both  in  England  and 
America,  becomes  acquainted  with  all  the  most  beautiful  and 
rare  varieties ;  and  he  has  kindly  furnished  a  list  and  descrip- 
tion of  about  one  hundred,  including  the  choicest  seedlings  of 
the  last  two  years.  To  these  I  have  added  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  varieties,  most  of  which  I  have  had  under  cultiva- 
tion in  my  own  garden,  and  which  may  be  justly  denominated 
preeminently  beautiful. 

In  making  this  selection,  several  superb  varieties  are  omitted, 
not  because  they  are  undervalued,  but  for  the  sake  of  brevity, 
which  in  a  work  of  this  kind  must  be  consulted.  Those 
marked  thus  f  are  native  American  varieties.  Those  marked 
thus  *  obtained  the  greatest  number  of  premiums  at  the  vari- 
ous Floricultural  and  Horticultural  Exhibitions  in  Great  Britain, 
as  well  as  in  our  own  country.  There  are,  perhaps,  fifty  more 
in  this  Catalogue,  not  far  beneath  them  ;  but  none  are  marked 
except  those  which,  from  having  been  tested  in  this  climate, 
can  with  confidence  be  recommended,  as  being  free  and  per- 
fect Bloomers.  The  choicest  seedlings  of  last  year,  which  have 
been  purchased  in  England,  at  from  fifteen  shillings  to  five 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  67 

pounds  sterling  each,  are  marked  thus  §.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  observe,  that  many  of  our  choice  old  varieties,  as  well  as 
several  of  the  new  ones,  hereinafter  described,  have  not  been 
offered  in  competition  at  public  exhibitions.  These  are,  there- 
fore, not  to  be  undervalued  for  want  of  the  star  or  asterisk ; 
and  it  is  presumed  that  the  brief  description  given  of  the 
different  shades  will  be  sufficient  to  govern  amateurs  in  their 
choice. 


CATALOGUE  OF  DOUBLE  DAHLIAS. 

t  Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *  Free  Bloomers.  §  New  Varieties. 

*  Admiral  Stopford,  TrentfielcFs,  very  dark,  cupped  petals ;  fine 

formed  flower. 

Alba  Purpurea,  Young's,  white,  edged  with  purple. 
Alexander,  Miller's,  bright  orange  buff. 
Alphonse,  Bavais's,  primrose,  edged  with  violet. 
Alkoenig,  light  scarlet ;  extra  large  flower. 
§  Andromeda,  Collison's,  primrose,  tipped  with  carmine. 
Andrew  Hoffer,  Holmes's,  bright  maroon,  cupped  petals. 
Antler,  Keynes's,  vivid  scarlet ;  fine  formed  flower. 

*  Antagonist,  Bragg 's,  pure  white ;  excellent  formed  flower, 
f  Apollo,  Schmitz's,  clear  golden  yellow,  cupped  petals. 

*  Arethusa,  Brown's,  bright  violet  purple ;  very  fine. 

*  Asmodeus,  very  dark  puce :  novel  and  pretty  variety. 
Athlete,  Chereau's,  beautiful  lilac ;  extra  fine  shape. 
Beauty  of  Chelmsford,  Wick's,  white,  edged  with  lavender. 
Beauty  of  the  Plain,  Sparry's,  white,  deeply  margined  with 

rosy  purple. 
Beauty  of  Wakefield,  Barrett's,  white,  edged  with  light  purple. 

*  Beauty  of  Sussex,  Mitchell's,  delicate  pink,  edged  with  cherry 

color ;  a  free  bloomer. 
§  Berry er,  Turner's,  black;  extra  fine  dark  show  flower. 

*  Beeswing,  Drummond's,  rich  crimson,  splendidly  cupped. 


68  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

f  Black  Prince,  Kent's,  extra  dark  maroon. 

§  Bohemian  Girl,  Proctor's,  white,  edged  with  purple ;  fine  form. 

Bridemaid,  Brown's,  white,  edged  with  purple ;  free  bloomer, 
.f  Brooklyn  Rival,  Kent's,  beautiful  light  orange ;  fine  shape. 

Burnham  Hero,  Church's,  superb  deep  crimson, 
f  Caleb  Cope,  Schmitz's,  mottled  rosy  lilac ;  free  bloomer. 
§  Captain  Warner,  Girling 's,  light  purple,  elegantly  shaped. 

Charles  XII. ,  Miller's,  plum  color,  tipped  with  white. 

Charles  XII.,  Pamplin's,  fine  rosy  crimson. 

*  Cheltenham  Queen,  Hodge's,  white,  round  petals,finely  cupped. 
Cinderella,  Dubras's,  beautiful  cherry  color,  tipped  with  white* 

*  Cleopatra,  AtwelFs,  beautiful  light  yellow ;  a  fine  show  flower. 
§  Cloth  of  Gold,  Edwards' s,  extra  bright  golden  yellow ;  superb 

show  flower. 

*  Colonel  Baker,  dark  claret ;  fine  form  and  free  bloomer. 

*  Constantia,  Cox's,  white,  beautifully  shaded  with  bright  pink. 
Countess  of  Liverpool,  beautiful  shaped  scarlet. 

§  Dawn  of  Day,  MitchelFs,  light  lilac ;  elegantly  formed  flower, 
f  Desdemona,  Schmitz's,  primrose,  tipped  with  rosy  lilac. 
Donna  Antonia,  Dickens's,  purple,  tipped  with  white. 

*  Dowager  Lady  Cowper,  rosy  pink ;  extra  fine  formed  flower. 
Duchess  of  Richmond,  Fowler's,  fine  orange  and  pink. 
Duke  of  Bedford,  Dennis's,  large  crimson  maroon. 

Duke  of  Wellington,  Smith's,  rich  scarlet  crimson,  finely 
cupped. 

*  Duke  of  York,  Keynes's,  light  scarlet,  beautifully  cupped. 
Dupetit  Thouars,  Mielliez's,  deep  yellow,  laced  with  red. 
Eclipse,  Catleugh's,  vermilion  rose ;  superb  flower. 
Eleame  de  Beaucour,  Girling' s,  white,  edged  and  striped  with 

bright  purple. 

Engenia,  chrome  yellow,  elegantly  tipped  with  violet. 
Enterprise,  Dodd's,  beautiful  clear  buff  color ;  fine  form. 

*  Essex  Champion,  Turvell's,  bright  orange ;  of  superior  form. 
Evecque  de  Bayeux,  Oudin's,  spendid  velvety  maroon. 

*  Eximea,  Girling's,  bright  rose,  finely  cupped. 

g  Fant^sii,  Mielliez's,  bright  yellow,  edged  with  scarlet. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  69 

Favorite,  Dodd's,  white,  tipped  with  rosy  crimson. 

Francis,  Jones's,  white,  margined  with  purple. 
§  Fulwood  Glory,  Teebay's,  light  crimson ;  extra  fine  form, 
f  General  Houston,  Briell's,  light  purple ;  fine  free  bloomer. 
§  Golden  Fleece,  Union's,  bright  orange ;  splendid  flower. 

Golden  Rule,  beautiful  yellow ;  finely  formed. 
§  Goldfinch,  crimson  and  yellow ;  extra  fine  fancy  variety. 

Grace  Darling,  Dodd's,  bright  salmon ;  fine  formed  flower. 

Grandis,  extra  large  ruby  purple. 

*  Great  Mogul,  Atwell's,  extra  fine  shaded  crimson. 

Great  Western,  Bragg' s,  light  purple,  mottled  with  crimson. 

*  Harlequin,  Dodd's,  white,  deeply  margined  with  scarlet, 
f  Henry  Clay,  Schmitz's,  dark  claret,  beautifully  cupped, 
f  Hero  of  the  States,  Kent's,  light  scarlet,  dark  centre. 

f  Hero  of  the  West,  Schmitz's,  rosy  carmine ;  finely  formed. 

*  Hero  of  Stonehenge,  Whales' s,  dark  crimson  ;  conical  form ; 

very  fine  show  flower. 
§  Hon.  Mr.  Herbert,  Brown's,  bright  salmon  color ;  exquisite 

form ;  a  free  bloomer. 
Hope,  Neville's,  extra  fine  rose  color ;  free  bloomer. 

*  Illuminator,  Keynes's,  white,  edged  with  scarlet;  similar  to 

"  Painted  Lady." 

*  Indispensable   White,  Tassart's,  French  white ;  flowers  of 

immense  size. 
§  Isis,  Bolter's,  nankeen,  edged  with  white,  interspersed  with 

brown ;  a  fancy  variety. 

Ithuriel,  Harrison's,  bronze,  delicately  shaded  with  pink. 
King  of  Lilacs,  Girling' s,  beautiful  lilac ;  free  bloomer. 

*  Lady  Ann  Murray,  Catleugh's,  white,  mottled  with  purple. 

*  Lady  Antrobus,  Sparry' s,   white,  tinted  with  scarlet   lake ; 

fine  form,  and  free  bloomer, 
f  Lady  Ashburton,  Russell's,  pure  white,  elegantly  tipped  with 

carmine  lake. 
§  Lady  Cornwallis,  Whales' s,  blush  white  ;  extra  fine  form. 

Lady  Catharine  Jermyn,  white,  mottled  with  crimson. 
§  Lady  Featherstone,  Sparry' s,  white,  margined  with  purple. 


70  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

*  Lady  Sale,  Smith's,  yellow,  edged  with  brilliant  scarlet. 

§  Lady  Stopford,  Trentfield's,  lake  crimson ;  fine  form,  and  free 
bloomer. 

*  Lady  St.  Maur,  white,  delicately  tipped  with  lavender. 

f  Lady  Stewart,  Rents,   white,  lightly  tinged ;    fine    formed 
flower. 

*  Lady  Yon  Brendenstein,  Degen's,  white,  tipped  with  violet. 

§  Lady  of  the  Lake,  Keynes's,  white,  beautifully  margined  with 
rosy  pink. 

*  La  Lione,  Salterns,   creamy   white,    elegantly  edged   with 

scarlet. 

*  La  Tour  du  Auvergne,  orange  scarlet ;  large  cupped  flower. 
Le   Grand  Bourdain,  Low's,  rosy  lilac,  centre  tinged   with 

bright  yellow. 

f  Lutea  Grandiflora,  Kent's,  light  yellow  ;  free  bloomer, 
f  Lutea  Perfecta,  Kent's,  sulphur  yellow  ;  finely  formed, 
f  Lutea  Speciosa,  Schmitz's,  extra  fine  shaped ;  yellow. 

*  Madame  Chauviere,    Girling' s,  light    crimson,  tipped   with 

white. 

Madame  Rignou,  buff,  tipped  with  pure  white. 
Madame  Yillabois,  white,  beautifully  tipped  with  vermilion. 
Madame  Wallner,  Girling's,  dark  maroon,  tipped  with  white. 

*  Marchioness  of  Exeter,  Widnall's,  peach  blossom  ;  fine  form, 

cupped  petals. 

*  Marchioness  of  Ormonde,  Bourne's,  white,  tipped  with  violet 

purple ;  fine  show  flower. 

Marshal  Soult,  Elphinstone's,  delicate  lilac,  tinted  with  red. 
§  Marquis  of  Aylesbury,  Sparry 's,  purple ;    very    fine   show 

flower. 
§  Magician,  Turner's,  orange,  edged  with  bright  yellow. 

Maid  of  Bath,  Davis' s,  white,  edged  with  purple. 
§  Master  George  Clayton,  a  fine  fancy  show  flower. 

Maria,  Wheeler's,  deep  rose ;  superb  form,  free  bloomer. 
§  Marguerite,  Bailey's,  beautiful  crimson,  tipped  with  white. 
§  Miss    Prettyman,    Turner's,    white,  margined   with   bright 
purple. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  l 

§  Mrs.  Caudle,  Turner's,  light  orange ;  profuse  bloomer. 

f  Mrs.    Clay,   Kent's,  white ;   elegantly   formed,  and    slightly 

shaded  with  lilac, 
f  Mrs.    Rushton,   Blast's,   white,  tipped   with    rose ;    a  free 

bloomer. 

*  Mrs.   Shelley,   Mitchell's,  rosy    lilac ;    fine   form   and  free 

bloomer. 

f  Negro,  Schmitz's,  fine  dark  puce ;  a  good  show  flower. 
Nihil,  Bailees,  fancy  bright  red,  tipped  with  white. 
Novelty,  shaded  ruby ;  fine  form  and  free  bloomer. 
Nonpareil,  Proctor's,  ruby  scarlet ;  first-rate  form,  and  showy 
Ophir,  Edwards' s,  fine  yellow,  sometimes  tipped  with  crimson. 

*  Orb,  very  fine  scarlet  crimson ;  a  perfect  and  free  bloomer. 
§  Orlando,  Brown's,  pale  rosy  lilac,  of  fine  form  and  habit. 

§  Pantaloon,  Dodd's,  a  first-rate  show  flower,  and  free  bloomer. 

Pickwick,  Cormack's,  purple  ;  fine  form ;  a  good  show  flower. 

f  Pontiac,    Schmitz's,  orange,  edged   with  bright  red;    very 

showy. 
§  Princess   Radsville,    Gaines's,    white,    edged  with  crimson ; 

fine  formed  flower. 

Princess  Royal,  Harwood's,  fine  primrose ;  good  form. 
Prince  of  Wales,  Dodd's,  fine  yellow,  cupped  petals. 
President  of  the  West,  dark  crimson  ;  fine  form. 
Punch,   Dodd's,   bright  purple,  striped   with  white;    fancy 

variety, 
f  Purpurea  Perfecta,  Kent's,  light  purple ;  very   compact ;  a 

free  bloomer. 

§  Queen  of  the  Fairies,    Cook's,  delicate    pink,  deeply   mar- 
gined with  white  ;  very  fine. 

*  Queen  of  Perpetuals,  Girling 's,  delicate  peach  blossom;  a 

perfect  formed  flower. 

Queen  of  Roses,  WidnalVs,  pale  rosy  lilac ;  very  fine. 
§  Queen  of  Sheba,  Wilkinson's,  pure  white ;  elegantly  formed 

*  Queen,    Widnall's,  peach  blossom,   finely  cupped ;    superb 

show  flower,  and  free  bloomer. 
Queen  of  Trumps,  white,  edged  with  rosy  lilac. 


2  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Raphael,  maroon  and  crimson  ;  a  good  show  flower. 

Reliance,  Widnall's,  bright  orange,  finely  cupped. 

Rival   Prince   of  Orange,    WidnalVs,   bright   orange;   very 

fine, 
f  Rival,  Schmitz's,  maroon,  shaded  with  red. 

Rienzi,  Widnall's,  crimson  and  puce  mottled. 
§  Rose  d' Amour,  Brown's,  extra  fine  dark  lilac ;  free  bloomer. 
Rose  Superior,  Girling '$,  delicate  rose  color;  well  formed. 
Scarlet    Defiance,    Cowdery's,   superb    dark   scarlet;    great 

bloomer. 
§  Scarlet  Gem,   Turner's,  vivid  scarlet;    an  extra  fine   show 

flower. 

Sir  E.  Antrobus,  Keynes's,  fiery  crimson ;  a  fine  show  flower. 
Standard  of  Perfection,  dark  crimson ;  good-formed  flower. 
Striata    Formosissima,   Bates's,    blush    white,    striped   and 

spotted  with  crimson. 
Suffolk  Hero,    Girling' s,  fine  dark  maroon;    a  good  bold 

flower. 

Sulphurea  Elegans,  Jones's,  sulphur  yellow ;  large  bloomer. 
Surprise,  Oakley's,  bright  scarlet,  tipped  with  white. 
\  T.  C.  Percival,  Schmitz's,  large  dark  crimson,  round  petals ; 

fine  formed  flower. 
Trafalgar,   King's,   peach-blossom    pink;    good   form    and 

showy. 
Triumph,  Mielliez's,  white,  tinted  with  bright  purple. 

*  Ultimatum,  Bavais's,  bright  red ;  elegantly  formed. 

*  Unique,  AnselVs,  light  yellow,  beautifully  tipped  with  red. 

*  Victory   of  Sussex,   Stanford's,   dark  maroon;    fine   show 

flower. 
Victor,  WidnaWs,  bright  primrose,  edged  with  crimson. 

*  Violet    Perfection,   Keynes's,    purple,   with    bright    violet 

shade. 

*  Viscount  Ressigneur,  Dubras's,  purple,  tipped  with  white. 

§  Yellow  Standard,  Keynes's,  the  most  perfect  flower  of  its 

color, 
f  Yellow  Victory,  Schmitz's,  brimstone  yellow ;  free  bloomer. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  73 


PROPAGATING    DOUBLE    DAHLIAS    FROM    SEED. 

As  some  amateurs  are  apt  to  fancy  that  the  most  economical 
method  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  Dahlias  in  their  gardens  is  to 
raise  them  from  seed,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind  such,  that 
the  trouble  and  expense  of  raising  any  quantity  of  seedlings 
is  equal  to  that  attending  the  cultivation  of  the  same  number 
of  the  choicest  varieties ;  and  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
greatest  proportion  of  a  plantation  may  be  single  and  semi- 
double,  and  that  but  few  double-flowering  plants  can  be 
expected,  equal  to  those  above  described,  it  must  appear  evi- 
dent that  it  is  the  interest  of  such  persons  as  desire  to  have 
their  gardens  unencumbered  with  plants,  that  are  not  calcu- 
lated to  ornament  the  same,  to  procure  plants,  or  roots,  of  such 
varieties  as  have  been  tested,  and  highly  recommended,  as  is 
the  case  with  all  those  described  in  the  preceding  Catalogue, 
and  also  those  which  are  generally  sold  by  the  regular  florists. 
But  as  I  am  writing  for  young  gardeners,  it  may  be  necessary 
to  state,  that  although  new  varieties  are  usually  raised  from 
seed  of  the  finest  double  flowers,  some  successful  propagators 
prefer  that  procured  from  semi-double  varieties.  Sow  seed 
towards  the  last  of  March,  in  pots,  and  plunge  them  in  a  mode- 
rate hot-bed ;  or  seed  may  be  deposited  in  the  earth  of  the 
beds,  in  shallow  drills. 

Nothing  is  more  simple  than  the  cultivation  of  Dahlia  roots. 
In  March  or  April,  they  will,  if  properly  kept  through  the 
winter,  begin  to  sprout  around  the  old  steins  and  tubers.  To 
forward  these  sprouts  in  growth,  the  roots  should  either  be 
buried  in  light  earth,  on  the  top  of  a  moderate  hot-bed,  or  else 
potted,  and  then  set  in  a  warm  room,  or  green-house,  and 
watered.  As  soon  as  the  shoots  have  grown  to  the  length  of 
two  or  three  inches,  the  roots  may  be  divided  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  have  a  strong  shoot  attached  to  a  piece  of  the  tuber, 
or  old  stem.  Each  of  these  will,  if  properly  managed,  make  a 
plant.  Those  who  may  commence  cultivating  at  an  early 

4 


7  4  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

season,  should  put  the  plants  thus  separated  into  small  pots 
and  keep  them  in  a  growing  state  until  about  the  middle  of 
May,  at  which  time  they  may  be  turned  out  of  the  pots,  with 
the  balls  of  earth  entire,  and  planted  in  the  open  borders,  from 
three  to  four  feet  from  each  other. 

In  order  to  obtain  an  extra  number  of  plants  from  any  choice 
varieties,  cuttings  are  frequently  taken  from  the  shoots  when 
about  three  inches  in  length,  which  are  planted  in  nursery-pots, 
and  cultivated  in  hot-beds ;  they  require  to  be  shaded  from  the 
sun,  by  mats,  for  the  first  fortnight ;  afte"r  which  they  may  be 
gradually  inured  to  the  air,  and  treated  as  plants  raised  in  the 
ordinary  way. 

PREPARATION    OF   THE    SOIL    FOR   DAHLIAS. 

Let  the  ground  be  well  pulverized,  and  enriched  with  good 
old  manure,  before  the  plants  are  set  out.  If  the  top  soil  be 
shallow,  and  the  subsoil  inferior,  it  would  be  beneficial  to  the 
plants  to  dig  holes  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches, 
and  then  replenish  the  earth  with  good  rich  compost,  consist- 
ing of  two-thirds  of  fresh  loam,  and  one-third  of  well-rotted 
manure. 

Many  cultivators  have  found  late  planting  to  suit  better  than 
early ;  and  I  myself  have  had  more  perfect  flowers  from  plants 
set  out  about  the  middle  of  June  than  from  those  planted  in 
May.  This  is  easily  accounted  for.  In  July  and  August,  the 
weather  is  generally  hot,  which  brings  the  most  forward  plants 
into  bud  at  an  early  season ;  and  in  the  event  of  a  continua- 
tion of  hot,  dry  weather,  such  buds  fail  to  produce  perfect 
flowers;  whereas,  those  plants  which  are  set  out  late,  keep 
growing  through  the  hot  weather,  and  produce  their  buds  just 
in  time  to  receive  all  the  benefit  of  the  autumnal  rains.  From 
a  consideration  of  these  circumstances,  I  think  early  in  June 
the  safest  time  to  set  out  Dahlia  plants ;  and  if  those  persons 
who  have  no  convenience  to  force  their  roots  set  them  out  in 
May,  in  ground  prepared  as  before  directed,  they  will  generally 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  75 

succeed  very  well,  provided  they  take  care  to  cover  them  in 
case  of  a  cold  change  of  weather.  The  roots  may  be  thus  cul- 
tivated entire,  as  is  frequently  done ;  but  if  it  be  desired  to 
have  them  parted,  this  business  can  be  easily  accomplished 
without  disturbing  the  roots ;  and  the  offsets  may  be  planted 
in  the  ground  separately  or  potted. 

Previous  to  setting  out  the  plants,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
provide  for  their  preservation,  through  the  varied  changes  of 
the  season,  as  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  may  destroy  the  expecta- 
tions of  a  year.  The  branches  of  the  Dahlia  are  extremely 
brittle ;  and,  therefore,  a  stout  pole,  or  neat  stake,  should  be 
driven  down  near  each  root,  of  a  suitable  height,  so  that  the 
branches,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  may  be  tied  thereto  at 
every  joint,  which  may  be  done  with  shreds  of  matting  or  twine. 
If  the  poles  be  in  readiness,  they  are  much  more  easily  fixed  at 
the  time  of  planting  the  Dahlias  than  afterwards ;  but  it  may  be 
done  at  any  time  after  the  ground  has  been  softened  by  rain, 
provided  it  be  not  delayed  too  long,  so  as  to  subject  the  plants 
to  risk.  Sometimes  a  few  forward  buds  of  the  Dahlias  will 
exhibit  their  premature  beauties  to  the  beams  of  a  July  and 
August  sun ;  but  their  lustre  is  quickly  dimmed.  The  latter 
part  of  September,  sometimes  all  October,  and  part  of  Novem- 
ber, witness  the  Dahlia  in  all  its  glory ;  and  dwarf  plants,  culti- 
vated in  pots,  will  sometimes  blossom  at  Christmas ;  but  they 
require  more  than  ordinary  care,  at  a  late  period  of  their 
growth. 


GLADIOLUS,  CORN-FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

Of  this  genus  of  bulbs  there  are  about  fifty  species,  natives 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  produce  flowers  of  various 
colors,  in  August  and  September,  and  are  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  those  who  cultivate  tender  exotic  plants.  They 
may  be  planted  in  September  or  October,  about  an  inch  deep, 
in  pots,  which  must  be  kept  in  a  green-house  or  light  room,  and 


6  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

watered  sparingly  until  they  begin  to  grow.  The  following  are 
known  to  be  superb  species  and  varieties : 

G.  alatus,  or  Wing-Flowered,  producing  bright  orange-colored 
flowers. 

G.  Uandus  produces  flowers  of  a  beautiful  blush  rose  color. 

G.  Byzantinus,  or  Turkish  Flag,  has  large  delicate  purple 
flowers. 

G.  cardinalis.  This  variety  produces  very  large  flowers  of 
superb  scarlet,  spotted  with  white. 

G.  floribundus,  or  Cluster  Flower,  produces  large  flowers  of 
white  and  pink  color. 

The  Gladiolus  JVatalensis,  or  Psittacina,  is  perhaps  the  most 
desirable  to  cultivate  of  all  others.  It  blossoms  freely,  and  the 
colors  are  exquisitely  beautiful.  In  its  progress  of  blooming,  it 
exhibits  variable  colors,  as  vermilion,  red,  yellow,  green,  white, 
crimson,  etc.,  which  brighten,  as  the  flower  arrives  at  perfection, 
to  the  brilliancy  of  a  rainbow.  Another  good  quality  displays 
itself  in  the  bull:,  which,  if  properly  managed,  will  yield  ati 
abundance  of  offsets.  These  being  cultivated  will  flower  the 
third  year  in  perfection,  and  thus  continue  to  multiply  perpe- 
tually. 

I  have  named  September  and  October  as  the  time  for  plant- 
ing, because  it  is  considered  the  preferable  season  for  most 
bulbs.  Yet  if  these  be  preserved  in  good  condition  through  the 
winter,  until  early  in  April,  and  then  planted  in  a  soil  consisting 
of  about  one-half  fresh  loam,  equal  parts  of  leaf  mould  and  sand, 
well  mixed,  they  may  be  forwarded- in  a  warm  room,  green- 
house, or  moderate  hot-bed,  until  settled  warm  weather,  and 
then  turned  out  of  the  pots  into  a  border,  where  they  can  be 
shaded  from  the  sun  at  noon-day.  This  will  induce  each  of 
them  to  throw  up  three  or  four  stems,  from  three  to  four  feet 
high,  each  stem  producing  five  or  six  gorgeous  blossoms,  in 
great  perfection.  Those  planted  in  the  autumn  or  winter  may 
also  be  turned  out  of  the  pots  in  June ;  and  from  the  fibres 
having  taken  substantial  root  in  the  soil,  before  transplanting, 
such  plants  may  be  taken  up  again  in  August,  or  early  in  Sep- 


FLOWER-GARDENING. 


tember;  and  on  being  planted  in  large  pots,  they  may  be 
removed,  so  as  to  perfect  their  bloom,  within  view  of  the  parlor 
or  sitting-room,  which  will  afford  considerable  amusement  and 
gratification. 


HYACINTH. 


4 Hail  to  thee !  hail,  thou  lovely  flower! 
Still  shed  around  thy  sweet  perfume  I 
Still  smilo  amid  the  Wintry  hour, 
And  boast  e'en  then  a  spring-tide  bloom  ! 
Thus  hope,  'mid  life's  severest  days, 
Still  smiles,  still  triumphs  o'er  despair ; 
Alike  she  lives  in  pleasure's  rays, 
And  cold  affliction's  Winter  air." 


There  are,  as  has  been  already  stated,  about  thirteen  hundred 
varieties  of  this  family  of  plants,  comprising  all  the  various  hues, 
as  white,  pink,  red,  yellow,  blue,  purple,  crimson,  etc. ;  and  some 
of  those  with  various  colored  eyes.  They  begin  to  produce 
their  flowers  in  the  open  borders,  early  in  April,  on  short,  erect 
stems  covered  with  florets  or  small  bells ;  and  each  floret  is  well 
filled  with  petals  rising  towards  the  centre  ;  and  is  suspended 
from  the  stem  by  short,  strong  footstalks,  the  longest  at  the 
bottom ;  and  the  uppermost  florets  stand  so  erect  as  to  form  a 
pyramid.  A  plantation,  or  bed  of  these,  has  a  very  beautiful 
appearance,  provided  they  are  well  attended  to.  In  planting 
them,  which  should  be  in  the  months  of  October  or  November, 
care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  colors  so  diversified  as  to  suit 
the  fancy.  They  may  be  placed  in  short  rows  across  the  bed, 
about  eight  inches  apart,  and  from  three  to  four  inches  deep, 
measuring  from  the  top  of  the  bulb,  and  covered  up  at  the 
setting  in  of  winter,  as  before  recommended  for  bulbs  in  general. 

Those  who  may  have  a  fine  collection  should  have  an 
awning  erected  in  the  spring,  to  screen  them  from  the  chill- 
ing blast,  and  also  from  drenching  rains,  and  the  noonday 


78  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

sun ;  and  they  should  be  looked  over  as  soon  as  they  make 
their  appearance  above  ground,  to  see  if  they  are  all  perfect 
and  regular ;  if  faulty  or  inferior  bulbs  should  appear  to  have 
been  planted  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  bed,  by  accident 
or  mistake,  they  can  be  taken  out  with  a  trowel,  and  by 
shortening  the  rows,  others  may  be  substituted.  When  all 
are  regulated,  look  over  them  frequently,  and  as  the  stems 
shoot  up,  tie  them  to  wires,  or  small  rods,  with  shreds  of 
bass  matting  or  thread,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  florets. 
In  about  six  weeks  after  they  have  done  flowering,  the  bulbs 
may  be  taken  up,  and  managed  as  recommended  for  bulbs  in 
general,  in  a  former  page. 


IRIS,  OR  FLOWER  DE  LUCE. 

There  are  two  distinct  species  of  plants  cultivated  under 
the  name  of  Flower  de  Luce,  each  consisting  of  several  varie- 
ties. The  bulbous  species  and  varieties  are  designated  as 
English,  Spanish,  Chalcedonian,  and  American.  These,  if 
introduced  into  the  flower-borders,  and  intermixed  with 
perennial  plants  of  variable  colors,  have  a  very  pretty  appear- 
ance when  planted  in  clumps  or  patches.  This  may  be  done 
in  the  month  of  October,  by  taking  out  a  spadeful  of  earth 
from  each  place  allotted  for  a  plant,  and  then  inserting  three 
or  four  bulbs,  about  two  inches  deep.  If  the  ground  be  poor, 
some  rich  compost  may  be  dug  in  before  the  bulbs  are 
planted ;  and  if  several  sorts  be  planted  in  the  same  border,  let 
them  be  of  various  colors.  The  tuberous-rooted  are  blue, 
yellow,  brown,  spotted,  and  some  other  colors;  they  are 
easily  cultivated ;  and  flower  freely  in  a  loose  soil  inclining  to 
moisture,  if  planted  in  March  or  April. 


FLOWER-GARDENING. 


IXIAS. 

These  are  tender,  but  very  free  flowering  bulbs,  producing 
on  their  stems,  which  vary  in  height  from  six  inches  to  two 
feet,  very  delicate  flowers  of  various  colors,  as  orange,  blush, 
white,  purple,  green,  crimson,  scarlet,  and  some  have  two  or 
three  colors  blended  in  the  same  plant.  There  are,  in  all, 
upwards  of  twenty  species,  which  may  be  cultivated  in  the 
green-house,  by  planting  the  bulbs  in  pots  in  September  or 
October,  and  placing  them  near  the  light,  and  watering  them 
sparingly  until  they  begin  to  shoot.  There  are  some  pure 
white,  and  others  yellow,  growing  in  various  parts  of  the 
country.  Among  the  foreign  genera  are  several  species.  Of 
the  Martagon,  or  Turk's  Cap  Lilies,  there  are  some  beautiful 
varieties ;  as  the  Caligula,  which  produces  scarlet  flowers  ;  and 
there  is  one  called  the  Crown  of  Tunis,  of  purple  color ;  besides 
these,  are  the  Double  Violet  Flamed,  the  White,  the  Orange, 
and  the  Spotted.  These  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  in 
various  parts  of  the  garden,  by  taking  out  a  square  foot  of 
earth,  and  then,  after  manuring  and  pulverizing  it,  the  bulbs 
may  be  planted  therein  before  the  setting  in  of  winter,  at 
different  depths,  from  two  to  four  inches,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  bulbs.  Some  of  the  Chinese  varieties  are  very  beauti- 
ful, as  the  Tiger,  or  Leopard  Lily,  and  the  dwarf  red,  Lilium 
concolor.  There  are  others  with  elegant  silver  stripes,  which 
are  very  showy,  and  there  is  one  called  Lilium  superbum,  that 
has  been  known  to  have  twenty-five  flowers  on  a  single  stalk. 

Besides  those  just  enumerated,  there  are  some  others 
which  are  generally  cultivated  in  green-houses,  as  the  Calla, 
or  Ethiopian  Lily ;  and  the  following,  which  have  been  known 
to  endure  our  winters,  by  protecting  them  with  mulch  or 
leaves.  Lilium  longiflorum,  in  two  varieties,  produce  on  their 
stalks,  which  grow  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high,  beau- 
tiful rose-colored  flowers,  streaked  with  white,  which  are  very 


80  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

sweet-scented.  These  roots  are  sometimes  kept  out  of  the 
ground  until  spring,  and  then  planted  in  the  flower-borders, 
but  they  should  be  preserved  carefully  in  sand  or  dry  mould. 
Lilium  Japonicum,  of  which  there  are  two  varieties,  produce 
several  stalks  at  once,  yielding  very  showy  flowers.  One  of 
the  varieties  is  blue-flowered,  and  the  other  produces  flowers 
of  the  purest  white. 


NARCISSUS. 

The  species  and  varieties  of  this  plant  are  numerous.  The 
Incomparable  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  produces  its  flowers  in 
April,  which  are  called  by  some  pasche,  or  pans  flowers,  by 
others,  butter  and  eggs ;  perhaps  because  their  bright  yellow 
petals  are  surrounded  with  large  white  ones.  Some  persons 
dislike  the  smell  of  these,  and  it  is  said  that  the  odor  has  a 
pernicious  eftect  upon  the  nerves ;  but  the  white  fragrant 
double,  as  well  as  the  Roman,  and  Polyanthus  Narcissus, 
are  free  from  this  objection,  being  of  a  very  grateful  and  agree- 
able smell.  Some  of  these  are  justly  held  in  great  esteem  for 
their  earliness,  as  well  as  for  their  varied  colors.  The  Grand 
Monarque  de  France,  the  Belle  Legoise,  and  some  others,  have 
white  flowers  with  yellow  cups.  The  Glorieux  has  a  yellow 
ground,  with  orange-colored  cups  ;  besides  these  are  some  white 
and  citron  colored,  as  the  Luna,  and  others  entirely  white,  as 
the  Heine  Blanche  and  Morgenster.  All  these  varieties  are 
very  suitable  either  for  the  parlor  or  green-house,  and  may  be 
planted  in  pots,  from  October  to  December,  from  two  to  three 
inches  deep.  The  double  Roman  Narcissus  are  very  sweet- 
scented  ;  if  these  be  planted  in  pots,  or  put  into  bulb-glasses  in 
the  month  of  October,  they  will  flower  in  January  and  Febru- 
ary. 

Polyanthus  Narcissus  are  more  delicate  than  Hyacinths  or 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  81 

Tulips.  When  they  are  planted  in  the  open  border,  they  should 
be  covered  about  four  inches  with  earth  ;  and  before  the  setting 
in  of  winter,  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  beds  with  straw, 
leaves,  or  litter,  to  the  depth  of  six  or  seven  inches,  and  to 
uncover  them  about  the  middle  of  March. 


ORNITHOGALUM,  OR  STAR  OF  BETHLEHEM. 

There  are  about  fifty  varieties  of  these  bulbs,  natives  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  some  of  which  are  from  three  to  five 
inches  in  diameter,  and  shaped  similar  to  a  pear ;  others  are 
much  like  Hyacinth  bulbs.  Among*  those  cultivated  in  Ame- 
rica are  the  0.  lacteum  and  the  0.  aureum.  The  former  pro- 
duces fine  white  flowers,  and  the  spike  is  about  a  foot  in 
length ;  and  the  latter  produces  flowers  of  a  golden  color,  in 
contracted  racemose  corymbs.  The  0.  maritimum,  or  Sea 
Squill,  is  curious;  from  the  centre  of  the  root  rise  several 
shining  glaucous  leaves,  a  foot  long,  two  inches  broad  at  the 
base;  and  narrowing  to  a  point.  If  kept  in  a  green-house, 
these  are  green  during  the  winter,  and  decay  in  the  spring. 
Then  the  flower-stalk  comes  up,  rising  two  feet,  naked  half 
way,  and  terminated  by  a  pyramidal  thyrse  of  white  flowers. 

These  bulbs  are  generally  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  and 
require  a  compost  consisting  of  about  one-half  fresh  loam,  one- 
third  leaf  mould,  and  the  remainder  sand;,  in  which  they  may 
be  planted  in  September.  When  cultivated  in  the  garden, 
they  should  be  planted  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  protected 
with  barn-yard  or  stable  manure.  They  produce  their  flowers 

early  in  June. 

4* 


82  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


OXALIS. 

The  Oxalis  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  the 
species  are  numerous,  and  their  roots  are  very  small  bulbs, 
articulated,  jointed,  or  granulated,  in  a  manner  peculiar  to  this 
genus.  They  produce  curious  flowers  of  various  hues,  yellow, 
purple,  rose,  red,  white,  striped,  vermilion  color,  etc.  The 
bulbs  should  be  planted  in  very  small  pots,  in  August  and 
September,  in  a  compost  consisting  of  about  two-thirds  loam, 
and  one-third  leaf  or  light  mould,  and  treated  in  the  same 
manner  as  other  Cape  Bulbs.  They  increase  in  a  peculiar 
manner,  by  the  parent  bulb  striking  a  fibre  down  from  its  base, 
at  the  extremity  of  which  is  produced  a  new  bulb  for  the  next 
year's  plant,  the  old  one  perishing.  These  plants  will  flower 
freely  in  a  green-house. 


P^EONY. 

"  P«onia  round  each  fiery  ring  unfurls, 
Bares  to  the  noon's  bright  blaze  her  sanguine  curls." 

Of  this  genus  of  splendid  plants  there  are  known  to  be 
about  twenty  species,  and  as  many  varieties.  It  is  said  that 
the  Pceonia  officinalis  rubra,  or  common  double  red  Pseony, 
was  introduced  into  Antwerp  upwards  of  two  centuries  ago,  at 
which  time  it  was  sold  at  an  enormous  price.  It  has  since 
been  highly  esteemed  in  Europe  and  America,  and  is  to  be 
found  in  all  well  established  gardens,  exhibiting  its  vivid  crim- 
son petals  early  in  June.  Many  superb  species  have  of  late 
years  been  brought  from  China,  a  few  of  which  may  be  noticed, 
with  some  others  which  are  in  very  great  repute. 

Pceonia  alba  Chinensis  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  herbaceous 
sorts.  The  flowers  are  white,  tinged  with  pink  at  the  bottom 
of  the  petals. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  83 

P.  edulis  whitleji  has  also  white  flowers,  which  are  very  large 
and  splendid. 

P.  edulis  fragrans  is  a  fine  large  double  scarlet  variety,  and 
produces  flowers  perfumed  like  the  rose. 

P.  humei  has  beautiful  large  double  dark  blush -colored 
flowers. 

P.  paradoxa  fimbriata  produces  fringed  double  red  flowers, 
which  are  very  beautiful. 

These  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  about  four  inches 
deep  in  the  garden,  in  October  or  November.  The  flowers 
exhibit  themselves  to  the  best  advantage  when  planted  on  a 
bed  that  is  elevated,  and  of  a  circular  form.  The  following  are 
half-hardy  and  half-shrubby ;  and  have  been  known  to  survive 
the  winter  by  being  well  protected,  but  are  kept  much  better 
in  a  green-house ;  and  they  also  exhibit  their  flowers  to  greater 
advantage  than  when  exposed  to  the  full  sun. 

P.  moutan  Banksii,  or  Tree  Paeony,  produces  very  large 
double  blush  flowers  in  abundance,  with  feathered  edges  to 
every  petal.  This  variety  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

P.  moutan  rosea  is  a  fine  rose-colored  double  variety,  and 
produces  very  splendid  flowers. 

P.  moutan  papaveracea  produces  very  large  white  flowers, 
with  pink  centres.  '  This  splendid  variety  frequently  bears 
flowers  from  nine  to  eleven  inches  in  diameter.  Besides  the 
above,  are  several  others  of  various  colors,  some  of  which  are 
semi-double. 


TULIP. 

"  For  brilliant  tints  to  charm  the  eye, 
What  plant  can  with  the  TULIP  vie? 
Yet  no  delicious  scent  it  yields 
To  cheer  the  garden  or  the  fields ; 
Vainly  in  gaudy  colors  dressed, 
'Tis  rather  gazed  on  than  caressed." 

The  Tulip  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  has  been  in  cultiva- 


84  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

tion  nearly  three  centuries.  It  may  be  justly  entitled  the  King 
of  Flowers,  for  the  brilliancy  and  endless  combination  of  all 
colors  and  shades.  The  varieties  of  the  Tulip  are  very  nume- 
rous, and  are  divided  into  different  classes.  Those  cultivated  in 
regular  beds  by  amateurs  are  rose-colored,  bybloemen,  and 
bizarres.  There  are  a  great  many  beautiful  varieties,  denomi- 
nated Parrot  Tulips,  which  have  notched  petals,  striped  or 
diversified  with  green;  and  also  some  very  dwarfish  kinds, 
both  single  and  double,  which  are  generally  cultivated  in 
parlors  and  green-houses. 

Mr.  T.  Hogg  has  published  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Cultivation 
of  Florists'  Flowers,"  which  comprises  the  Tulip,  Carnation, 
Auricula,  Ranunculus,  Polyanthus,  Dahlia,  German  and  China 
Asters,  Seedling  Heart's  Ease,  and  New  Annuals.  In  that 
work,  which  is  dedicated  to  Queen  Adelaide,  the  author 
remarks  that  the  cultivation  of  the  Tulip  is  one  of  the  most 
fascinating  and  pleasing  pursuits  imaginable,  and  that  when 
"  the  Tulip  mania  has  fairly  got  hold  of  any  one,  it  sticks  to 
him  like  the  skin  on  his  back,  and  remains  with  him  the  rest 
of  his  life."  He  instances  a  Mr.  Davey,  of  Chelsea,  as  being  in 
his  seventy- fifth  year,  and  in  whose  breast  the  fancy  for  Tulips 
was  so  predominant,  that,  in  the  autumn  of  1832,  he  was 
induced  to  part  with  a  hundred  sovereigns  for  one  single  Tulip, 
named  "  Miss  Fanny  Kemble."  Perhaps  a  better  definition  of 
what  constitutes  the  properties  of  a  good  Tulip  could  not  be 
given,  than  a  description  of  this  "  precious  gem,  or  loveliest  of 
all  Tulips."  But,  lest  my  readers  should  conclude  that  the  old 
man  was  in  his  dotage,  I  would  inform  them  that  this  favorite 
bulb  was  purchased  of  the  executors  of  the  late  Mr.  Clarke,  with 
whom  it  originated,  and  that  it  had  not  only  been  the  pet  of 
its  owner,  but  had  excited  the  envy  and  admiration  of  all  the 
amateurs  who  went  to  view  it. 

"  This  precious  gem,  a  byUoemen  Tulip,  was  raised  from  one 
of  Mr.  Clarke's  seedling  breeders,  and  broke  into  color  three 
years  ago.  It  has  produced  two  offsets  since,  and  is  adapted 
to  the  second  or  third  row  in  the  bed ;  the  stem  is  firm  and 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  85 

elastic ;  the  foliage  full  and  broad,  of  a  lively  green ;  the  cup 
large,  and  of  the  finest  form ;  the  white  pure  and  wholly  free 
from  stain ;  the  pencilling  on  the  petals  is  beautifully  marked 
with  black  or  dark  purple,  and  the  feathering  uniform  and 
elegant ;  it  preserves  its  shape  to  the  last,  the  outer  leaves  not 
sinking  from  the  inner ;  in  a  word,  it  is  considered  the  first 
flower  of  its  cast,  and  the  best  that  has  ever  been  produced  in 
England  up  to  this  date." 

BRIEF    DESCRIPTION    OF    TULIPS. 

The  following  description  may  serve  to  govern  the  choice  of 
amateurs.  Tulips  exhibited  at  the  show  are,  in  general,  classed 
and  distinguished  as  follows :  Flamed  Bizarres,  Feathered 
Bizarres,  Flamed  Bybloemens,  Feathered  Bybloemens,  Flamed 
Roses,  Feathered  Hoses,  and  Selfs  or  plain-colored. 

A  Bizarre  Tulip  has  a  yellow  ground,  marked  with  purple  or 
scarlet  of  different  shades.  It  is  called  flamed  when  a  broad  or 
irregular  stripe  runs  up  the  middle  of  the  petals,  with  short  abrupt 
projecting  points  branching  out  on  each  side.  Fine  narrow 
lines,  called  arched  and  ribbed,  often  extend  also  from  this  broad 
stripe  to  the  extremity  of  the  leaves,  the  color  generally  appear- 
ing strongest  in  the  inside  petals.  A  Tulip,  with  this  broad 
colored  stripe,  which  is  sometimes  called  beamed  or  splashed, 
is  also,  at  the  same  time,  frequently  feathered. 

The  flower  is  called  feathered  when  it  is  without  this  broad 
stripe ;  but  yet  it  may  have  some  narrow  lines,  joined  or 
detached,  running  up  the  centre  of  the  leaf,  sometimes  branch- 
ing out  and  curved  towards  the  top,  and  sometimes  without 
any  spot  or  line  at  all.  The  petals  are  feathered  more  or  less 
around  the  edges  or  margin  inside  and  out,  the  pencilling  or 
feathering  being  heavy  or  broad  in  some,  and  light  or  narrow 
in  others,  sometimes  with  breaks  or  gaps,  and  sometimes  close 
and  continued  all  around. 

A  Bybloemen  Tulip  has  a  white  ground,  lined,  marked, 
striped,  or  variegated  with  violet  or  purple,  only  of  various 


86  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

shades ;  and  whether  feathered  or  flamed,  is  distinguished  by 
the  same  characters  and  marks  which  are  pointed  out  and 
applied  to  the  Bizarres  Tulips. 

A  Rose  Tulip  is  marked  or  variegated  with  rose,  scarlet, 
crimson,  or  cherry  color,  on  a  white  ground ;  and  the  Feathered 
Kose  is  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Flamed  by  the  same  rules 
as  described  before ;  the  Rose  is  very  often  both  feathered  and 
flamed. 

A  Self,  or  plain-colored  Tulip,  properly  so  called,  is  either 
white  or  yellow,  and  admits  of  no  further  change ;  other  plain- 
colored  Tulips,  whether  red  or  purple,  are  called  breeders,  and 
are  hardly  worthy  of  being  exhibited. 

MANAGEMENT    OF   TULIPS 

To  describe  minutely  the  mode  of  planting  a  regular  bed  of 
Tulips  would  exceed  our  limits.  Suffice  it  to  state  that  the 
name  of  every  bulb  should  be  written  in  a  book,  and  that  they 
should  be  so  classed  as  to  have  the  varied  colors  show  advan- 
tageously. To  this  end,  the  tallest  should  be  allotted  for  the 
middle  of  the  bed,  and  others  in  regular  gradation,  so  as  to 
have  the  most  dwarfish  on  the  sides.  The  bulbs  must  be 
covered  with  good  mould  to  the  depth  of  three  inches  from  the 
top  of  the  bulb  on  the  sides  of  the  bed,  and  about  four  inches 
in  the  middle.  Let  a  spoonful  of  clean  drift  sand  be  used 
around  each  bulb,  and  see  that  the  bed  be  left  sufficiently  round 
from  the  middle  to  the  edges.  The  beginner  must  understand 
that  no  unsightly  tallies,  nor  number  sticks,  are  to  distinguish 
the  Tulips,  but  that  he  must  adopt  a  soft  of  ground  plan, 
dividing  the  whole  bed  into  rows  of  seven  bulbs  across.  For 
example,  write  down  the  names  and  places  of  the  Tulips  in  the 
first  row,  and  continue  the  same  form  all  through  to  the  other 
end  of  the  bed. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  87 

Row  First. 
No.  1.  Fenelon, this  is  a  Bybloemen. 

2.  Duchess  of  Clarence, ....  "  Rose-colored. 

3.  Charlemagne, "  Bybloemen. 

4.  Louis  the  Sixteenth,  ....  "  Bybloemen. 

5.  Memnon, "  Bizarre. 

6.  Volney, "  Bybloemen. 

7.  Lady  Crewe, "  Rose- colored. 

Good  fresh  loam,  taken  from  under  healthy  grass  sods,  is  the 
most  suitable  soil  for  Tulips.  Under  this  soil  should  be  buried 
well  rotted  cow  or  horse  droppings,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  about 
two  inches  in  thickness.  The  reason  for  placing  the  dung  so 
low  is  that  the  fibres  may  get  down  to  it  (which  they  will  do), 
and  that  the  bulbs  may  not  be  injured  by  it,  as  is  apt  to  be  the 
case  if  too  much  dung  is  used  around  them.  The  best  time  for 
planting  the  bulbs  is  early  in  November,  and  the  beds  should 
be  made  a  fortnight  previous,  in  order  that  the  earth  may 
become  sufficiently  settled.  If  severe  frosts  set  in  after 
the  Tulips  show  themselves  above  ground  in  the  spring, 
some  protection  should  be  given.  Single  mats  placed  over 
hoop  bends  answer  very  well ;  and  at  the  time  of  blooming,  an 
awning  should  be  erected  over  them  to  screen  them  from  the 
intense  heat  of  the  sun,  which  awning  should  be  sufficiently 
spacious  to  admit  of  persons  walking  under  it,  to  view  the 
beautiful  flowers  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 


TUBEROSE. 

This  fragrant  and  delightful  yet  very  tender  flower  has  been 
cultivated  in  English  flower-gardens  for  upwards  of  two  cen- 
turies. There  the  bulbs  are  generally  cultivate^  in  pots  early 
in  the  spring,  and  transferred  to  the  flower-borders  as  soon  as 


88  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

the  weather  becomes  settled  and  warm.  They  generally  suc- 
ceed very  well  here,  if  planted  at  once  in  the  open  border, 
towards  the  last  of  April,  and  produce  flowers,  which  are 
pure  white,  and  highly  odoriferous,  on  a  stem  three  to  four 
feet  high. 

The  bulbs  produce  a  number  of  offsets,  which  should  be 
preserved  with  the  parent  plants  through  the  winter,  and  then 
parted  off  and  planted  by  themselves,  in  April  or  early  in  May, 
to  produce  flowering  roots  for  the  ensuing  year.  These  roots 
thrive  best  in  a  light  rich  soil,  well  pulverized,  in  which  they 
should  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep,  not  forgetting  to 
take  them  up  again  before  the  approach  of  winter. 


TIGER  FLOWER. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  flower  treated  of  in  this  work,  that  is 
more  beautiful  than  some  of  the  species  of  the  genus  Tigri- 
dia.  Like  all  Mexican  bulbs,  these  are  tender,  and  should 
either  be  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  or  carefully  preserved 
until  settled  warm  weather,  and  then  planted  in  rich  light  soil, 
in  a  sheltered  situation.  A  bed  of  these  beautiful  flowers 
would  afford  as  much  gratification  to  some  amateurs  as  a  bed 
of  Tulips. 

The  Tigridia  conchiflora  is  of  a  rich  yellow  color,  tinged 
and  spotted  with  white  and  crimson ;  the  colors  are  vivid  and 
finely  contrasted.  The  Tigridia  pavonia  is  of  the  brightest 
scarlet,  tinged  and  spotted  with  brilliant  yellow.  The  corolla, 
which  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  is  composed  of  six 
petals ;  the  outer  petals  are  thrown  backwards,  and  exhibit 
the  blossom  in  all  its  splendor,  which  exists  only  a  single  day  ; 
but  as  if  to  compensate  for  its  transient  visit,  each  plant  will 
produce  a  number  of  flowers ;  and  where  a  bed  of  them  can 
be  collected,  they  will  amuse  their  admirers  for  several  weeks 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  89 

from  July  to  September.  In  such  case  the  bulbs  may  be 
planted  about  two  inches  deep,  say  nine  bj  fifteen  inches 
apart,  towards  the  end  of  April,  or  early  in  May,  and  taken  up 
again  in  October,  to  preserve  for  planting  the  ensuing  year. 


CULTURE   OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS,  IN    POTS    OR 
GLASSES,  IN  THE  WINTER  SEASON. 

The  culture  of  bulbous  roots  in  a  green-house,  or  light 
room,  during  the  winter,  is  comparatively  easy,  provided  two 
points  be  attended  to :  the  first  is  to  keep  them  near  the  light, 
and  turn  the  pots  or  glasses  around  frequently,  to  prevent  their 
growing  crowded ;  and  the  second  is,  when  the  plants  have 
done  growing,  to  give  them  little  or  no  water.  For  want  of 
attention  to  these  points,  bulbs  have  been  known  to  produce 
foliage  year  after  year,  without  showing  any  sign  of  blossoms. 
All  bulbs,  at  a  certain  period  of  the  year,  are  in  a  dormant 
condition.  This,  in  a  state  of  nature,  occurs  invariably  after 
the  seed  has  ripened ;  yet  as,  in  a  green-house,  many  of  this 
family  do  not  ripen  seed,  the  cultivator  should  watch  the 
period  when  the  leaves  show  indications  of  decay,  at  which 
time  the  supplies  of  water  should  be  lessened,  and  shortly 
afterwards  the  earth  should  be  suffered  to  get  dry,  and  remain 
so  until  the  season  returns  when  the  bulbs  regerminate. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbs  will  keep  best  in  pots,  under  the  soil, 
in  a  dry,  shady  place,  and  in  the  same  temperature  as  that  in 
which  they  are  in  the  habit  of  growing;  but  others,  such  as 
the  Hyacinth,  Tulip,  and  Narcissus,  may  be  taken  out  of  the 
soil,  and  preserved,  as  before  directed,  until  the  return  of  the 
proper  season  for  replanting. 

Dutch  bulbous  roots  intended  for  blooming  in  pots,  during 
the  winter  season,  should  be  planted  during  the  months  of 
October  and  November,  and  be  left  in  the  open  air  until  it 


80  FLOWER-GARDENINu. 

begins  to  freeze ;  and  then  be  placed  in  the  green-house,  or  in 
a  room,  exposed  to  the  sun.  They  will  need  occasional, 
moderate  waterings,  until  they  begin  to  grow.  Then  they 
should  have  abundance  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  plenty  of 
water  from  the  saucers,  underneath  the  pots,  while  in  a  grow- 
ing state ;  and  should  be  exposed,  as  much  as  possible,  to  the 
sun,  air,  and  light,  to  prevent  the  foliage  from  growing  too 
long,  or  becoming  yellow.  For  this  purpose,  single  Hyacinths, 
and  such  as  are  designated  earliest  among  the  double,  are  to  be 
preferred.  Single  Hyacinths  are  by  some  held  in  less  esteem 
than  double  ones.  Their  colors,  however,  are  more  vivid,  and 
their  bells,  though  smaller,  are  more  numerous.  Some  of  the 
finer  sorts  are  exquisitely  beautiful.  They  are  preferable  for 
flowering  in  winter,  to  most  of  the  double  ones,  as  they  bloom 
two  or  three  weeks  earlier,  and  are  very  sweet-scented.  Roman 
Narcissus,  double  Jonquils,  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  double  Nar 
cissus,  and  Crocuses  also  make  a  fine  appearance  in  the  parlor 
during  winter. 

It  is  a  remarkable  circumstance  of  the  Crocus,  that  it  keeps 
its  petals  expanded  during  tolerably  bright  candle  or  lamp 
light,  in  the  same  manner  as  it  does  during  the  light  of  the 
sun.  If  the  candle  be  removed,  the  Crocus  closes  its  petals, 
as  it  does  in  a  garden  when  a  cloud  obscures  the  sun ;  and 
when  the  artificial  light  is  restored,  they  open  again,  as  they 
do  with  the  return  of  the  direct  solar  rays. 

Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  intended  for  glasses  should  be 
placed  in  them  about  the  middle  of  November,  the  glasses 
being  previously  filled  with  pure  water,  so  that  the  bottom  of 
the  bulb  may  just  touch  the  water.  Then  place  them  for  the 
first  ten  days  in  a  dark  room,  to  promote  the  shooting  of  the 
roots ;  after  which,  expose  them  to  the  light  and  sun  as  much 
as  possible.  They  will  blossom  without  the  aid  of  the  sun ; 
but  the  colors  of  the  flowers  will  be  inferior.  The  water  should 
be  changed  as  often  as  it  becomes  impure.  Draw  the  roots 
entirely  out  of  the  glasses,  rinse  the  fibres  in  clean  water,  and 
also  the  glasses  inside.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  suffer  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  91 

* 

water  to  freeze,  as  it  will  burst  the  glasses,  and  often  causes 
the  fibres  to  decay.  Soft  or  rain  water  is  generally  pre- 
ferred. 

Forced  bulbs  are  seldom  good  for  anything  afterwards. 
However,  those  who  wish  to  preserve  them,  may  immerse  them 
wholly  in  water  for  a  few  days ;  and  then,  having  taken  them 
out,  and  dried  them  in  the  shade  for  a  short  time,  they  may 
be  planted  in  a  good  soil,  in  the  garden,  where  they  will  some- 
times flower  the  next  year.  It  does  not  clearly  appear  in  what 
way  the  water  operates,  when  the  bulb  is  wholly  immersed ; 
but  it  is  certain  that  bulbs  so  treated  increase  in  size  and  soli- 
dity, and  have  an  incomparably  better  chance  of  flowering  the 
second  year,  than  those  which  have  not  been  so  treated.  Most 
probably  their  total  immersion  enables  them  to  obtain  a  greater 
proportion  of  oxygen  from  the  water. 

Nosegays  should  have  the  water  in  which  their  ends  are  in- 
serted changed,  on  the  same  principle  as  bulbous  roots  ;  and  a 
much  faded  nosegay,  if  not  dried  up,  may  often  be  recovered 
for  a  time,  by  covering  it  with  a  glass  bell,  or  cup,  or  by  sub- 
stituting salt  water  for  fresh.  Very  fine  Hyacinths  have  been 
grown  in  a  drawing-room,  in  the  following  novel  manner:  A 
quantity  of  moss,  classically  called  hypnum,  and  vulgarly  fog, 
was  placed  in  a  water-tight  box,  about  eight  or  nine  inches 
deep,  into  which  the  bulbs  were  placed,  at  the  end  of  Septem- 
ber, without  mould,  and  duly  watered ;  and  the  result  of  this 
experiment  was  highly  satisfactory. 


GENERAL  MANAGEMENT  OF    GREEN-HOUSE 
PLANTS. 

Having  already  exceeded  my  limits,  I  am  compelled  to  be 
brief  in  my  observations  on  such  ornamental  plants  as  are 
generally  cultivated  in  hot  and  green-houses.  This  description 


02  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

• 

of  plants  embraces  those  which  are  collected  from  various 
climates,  and  thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil  similar  to 
that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them.  Hence,  those  who 
propagate  exotic  plants,  must  provide  suitable  composts,  and 
also  separate  departments,  where  the  different  degrees  of  heat 
may  be  kept  up,  according  to  their  nature  and  description. 
Some  of  these  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in  the  spring,  others 
by  layers,  suckers,  and  offsets  detached  from  the  old  plants,  and 
many  by  slips  or  cuttings,  planted  at  different  seasons  of  the 
year,  according  to  their  various  natures  and  state  of  the  plants. 
Many  kinds  require  the  aid  of  glass  coverings  and  bottom  heat, 
created  by  fresh  horse-dung,  tan,  etc. 

Were  I  to  attempt  to  give  directions  for  the  propagation  of 
all  the  varieties  of  useful  and  ornamental  exotic  plants  culti- 
vated in  various  parts  of  our  country,  it  would  require  several 
volumes.  The  catalogue  of  green-house  plants  alone,  kept  by 
the  enterprising  proprietor  of  the  Linna3an  Botanic  Garden,  at 
Flushing,  occupies  fifty  pages  of  close  matter.  It  would  there- 
fore be  impossible  to  do  justice  to  the  subject,  without  dividing 
upwards  of  two  thousand  species  of  plants  into  classes,  and 
treating  of  them  under  distinct  heads.  I  shall,  therefore,  not 
attempt,  in  this  edition,  to  write  largely  on  the  subject. 

In  order  to  render  this  work  useful  to  those  who  may  wish 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  pleasure  of  nursing  some  of  those 
beauties  of  nature  in  dwelling  or  green-houses  during  the  most 
chilling  days  of  our  severe  winters,  and  to  afford  amusement 
to  the  ladies  at  a  season  when  our  gardens  are  deprived  of  their 
loveliest  charms,  I  shall  notice  some  essential  points  connected 
with  the  management  of  green-house  plants  in  as  explicit  a 
manner  as  possible,  and  subjoin  a  brief  catalogue  of  such  species 
as  are  most  generally  cultivated,  of  which  there  are  innumerable 
varieties ;  descriptions  of  which,  with  all  the  varied  features 
of  the  floral  kingdom,  may  be  found  in  the  voluminous  works  of 
Loudon,  Sweet,  Chandler,  and  other  English  writers. 

Those  generally  denominated  green-house  plants,  and  which 
are  kept  in  rooms,  should  be  placed  where  they  can  have  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  93 

light  of  the  sun,  without  being  exposed  to  frost.  Air,  heat,  and 
moisture  are  essential  to  the  growth  of  plants  ;  but  these  should 
be  given  in  due  proportions,  according  to  circumstances.  In 
frosty  weather  they  should  be  kept  from  the  external  air,  and 
watered  very  sparingly.  When  water  is  necessary,  it  should 
be  applied  in  the  morning  of  a  mild  sunny  day.  The  plants 
should  be  kept  free  from  decayed  leaves,  and  the  earth  at  the 
top  of  the  pots  should  be  sometimes  loosened  to  a  moderate 
depth,  and  replenished  with  a  portion  of  rich  compost.  Plants 
kept  in  private  houses  are  often  killed  with  kindness.  The 
temperature  of  a  room  in  winter  need  not  be  more  than  ten 
degrees  above  freezing.  If  plants  are  healthy,  they  may  be  kept 
so,  by  attention  to  the  preceding  hints.  Unhealthiness  gene- 
rally arises  from  their  being  subjected  to  the  extremes  of  heat, 
cold,  or  moisture,  or  from  total  neglect. 

An  amateur  florist  has  suggested  the'  following  hints  in  regard 
to  the  management  of  plants  in  rooms.  He  says  that  he  keeps 
his  plants  in  a  room,  the  windows  of  which,  having  a  southern 
exposure,  will  admit  the  sun  all  day.  The  plants  are  placed  on 
a  table  with  rollers  attached  to  the  legs,  which  in  moderate 
weather  is  kept  as  near  to  the  glass  as  possible.  In  cold 
weather,  he  removes  the  table  into  the  middle  of  the  room,  and 
places  a  pail  of  water  near  the  plants  to  attract  the  frost.  He 
considers  it  a  great  mistake  to  suppose  that  plants  kept  in  warm 
rooms  require  much  fire-heat ;  on  the  contrary,  he  contends, 
that  a  moderate  degree  of  cold  will  agree  with  plants  much 
better  than  a  very  high  temperature.  He,  however,  considers  it 
needless  to  attempt  to  keep  plants  in  a  cold  room,  the  windows 
of  which  face  the  north.  A  south-eastern  or  even  eastern 
exposure  may  answer  without  any  fire,  except  in  very  cold 
weather.  It  may  be  observed,  further,  that  excessive  moisture 
injures  plants  more  than  drought,  and  that  plants,  in  general,  do 
not  require  water  while  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  the  pots  is 
moist. 


94  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


ATTRACTING    FROST    WITH    WATER. 

Most  persons  misapprehend  the  true  philosophy  of  this 
subject.  We  frequently  hear  of  placing  a  pailful  of  water 
beneath  a  tree,  when  there  is  danger  of  the  frost  destroying 
the  blossoms,  and  tying  a  wet  rope  to  the  top  of  the  tree, 
with  the  lower  end  in  the  pail  of  water.  The  water  is  said  to 
attract  the  frost.  All  this  is  a  ludicrous  absurdity.  There  is 
no  efficacy  in  a  vessel  of  water,  except  so  far  as  it  radiates 
heat.  A  pail  or  tub  containing  water  will  tend  to  keep 
plants  warm  by  radiating  heat,  just  as  a  fire  in  a  stove  tends  to 
keep  up  the  temperature  around  it.  If  a  pail  of  water  attracts 
frost,  so  does  a  heated  stove.  A  large  vessel  of  hot  water, 
placed  near  pots  containing  plants,  will  keep  them  from  being 
injured  by  cold,  for  several  hours.  The  same  is  true  if  the 
earth  in  the  pots  be  warmed,  through  and  through,  either  by 
warm  water  or  in  some  other  manner.  Such  warm  bodies  of 
any  kind  radiate  heat,  for  several  hours,  modifying  the  tem- 
perature near  the  growing  plants.  A  large  vessel  of  water  in 
the  open  air,  therefore,  can  afford  but  little  heat  to  a  plant  or 
tree.— S.  E.  T. 


PLANTS   REQUIRE    LIGHT. 

In  order  that  the  ideas  above  advanced  may  be  duly  con- 
sidered, it  may  be  useful  to  indulge  in  a  more  minute  descrip- 
tion of  the  nature  of  plants,  and  to  show  in  what  manner  the 
elements  operate  upon  them.  It  is  an  acknowledged  fact,  that 
the  roots  of  plants  require  moisture,  and  therefore  penetrate 
the  earth  in  search  of  it,  and  that  the  plants  themselves  are 
greatly  nourished  by  air,  and  spread  their  branches  and  leaves 
to  catch  as  much  as  possible  its  enlivening  influence.  Light 
also  is  so  far  essential,  that  there  can  be  no  color  without  it. 
Witness  the  blanching  of  celery  and  endive,  where  the  parts 
deprived  of  light  become  white.  Place  a  plant  in  almost  any 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  95 

situation,  it  will  invariably  show  a  tendency  to  turn  to  the 
light.  The  sunflower  is  a  striking  example  of  this  singular 
fact.  As  the  leaves  supply  the  plant  with  air,  and  the  fibres 
of  the  roots  with  nourishment,  if  we  strip  off  the  leaves,  or 
destroy  the  fibres,  we  deprive  it  of  part  of  its  means  of  sup- 
port. 

HEAT    ESSENTIAL    TO    THE    GROWTH    OP   PLANTS. 

Having  shown  that  air  and  water  are  essential  to  vegetation, 
and  light  to  its  color,  experience  shows  us  that  heat,  in  a 
greater  or  less  degree,  is  not  less  necessary  to  the  growth  of 
plants  ;  it  is  therefore  requisite,  that  in  taking  plants  into  our 
rooms,  we  should  attend  to  these  particulars.  The  internal 
structure  of  plants  consists  of  minute  and  imperceptible  pores, 
which  serve  the  same  important  purpose  in  the  vegetable,  as 
veins  in  the  animal,  system,  which  are  the  medium  of  the  cir- 
culation of  the  sap  in  the  former,  as  the  veins  are  of  the  blood 
in  the  latter.  But  it  is  by  no  means  settled,  as  yet,  by  physi- 
ologists, how  the  food  of  plants  is  taken  up,  and  converted  into 
their  constituent  parts. 

From  the  foregoing  considerations  and  facts,  it  is  evident, 
that,  as  air,  heat,  and  moisture  are  each  essential  to  vegeta- 
tion, water  should  only  be  given  in  proportion  as  heat  and  air 
are  attainable.  In  the  summer  season,  green-house  plants  may 
be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  from  the  early  part  of  May  until 
the  end  of  September,  by  being  placed  on  the  ledges  of  win- 
dows, or  on  a  stand  erected  for  the  purpose,  or,  in  the  absence 
of  a  nursery-bed  of  flowering  plants,  they  may  be  introduced 
into  the  regular  flower-beds,  to  supply  the  place  of  such  plants 
as  may  wither  and  die  in  the  course  of  the  summer,  by  being 
turned  out  of  the  pots  and  planted,  or  plunged  in  the  earth 
with  the  pots. 

WATERING    PLANTS. 

In  the  heat  of  the  summer  season  plants  generally  require 
water  every  evening,  and  in  the  absence  of  dews,  the  earth 


96  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

about  their  roots  ma}7  sometimes  need  a  little  in  the  morning 
but  experience  shows,  that  the  roots  of  plants  more  frequently 
get  injured  from  being  soddened  with  water,  than  from  being 
kept  moderately  dry. 

Having  before  intimated  that  exotic  plants  will  generally 
thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil  similar  to  that  in  which 
nature  first  produced  them,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind  the 
reader,  that  we  have  the  means  of  obtaining  suitable  composts 
from  our  own  soils,  and  -from  sand,  decayed  leaves,  rotten 
dung,  and  various  kinds  of  peat,  bog,  and  rock  mould.  These 
ingredients  being  judiciously  mixed  and  prepared,  may  be 
suited  to  all  the  various  kinds  of  plants,  and  should  be  used 
as  occasion  requires. 

As  the  roots  of  plants  make  considerable  growth  in  the 
course  of  a  summer,  it  will  be  necessary  to  examine  them  by 
turning  them  out  of  the  pots.  This  may  be  done  in  the  latter 
part  of  August,  or  early  in  September,  at  which  time  all 
matted  and  decayed  roots  should  be  pared  off,  and  the  plants 
shifted  into  larger  pots,  which  being  filled  with  suitable  com- 
post, and  watered,  will  be  ready  for  removal  into  the  house 
on  the  approach  of  cold  nights,  which  is  generally  early  in 
October. 

Green-house  plants  require  an  annual  pruning,  and  should 
be  occasionally  headed  down,  in  order  that  their  size  and 
appearance  may  be  improved  ;  the  best  time  for  doing  this  is 
soon  after  they  have  done  flowering,  and  while  they  are  in  a 
growing  state. 

Having  endeavored  to  furnish  my  readers  with  the  artificial 
means  of  preserving  tender  plants  in  a  climate  foreign  to  that 
in  which  nature  first  produced  them,  I  shall  call  their  attention 
to  another  class  of  plants  well  calculated  for  the  windows  of  a 
house.  I  allude  to  the  many  beautiful  varieties  of  the  Chinese 
Chrysanthemum,  which  are  frequently  cultivated  in  pots,  and 
may  be  taken  from  the  ground  and  put  into  pots,  even  when  in 
full  bloom,  without  injury ;  and  when  the  bloom  is  over, 
returned  to  the  garden.  In  the  spring  following  they  will 
throw  up  an  abundance  of  suckers. 


FLOWER-GARDENINQ. 


LIST    OF    CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

The  following  list  contains  some  of  the  best  varieties  of  the 
Chrysanthemums,  which  are  entitled  to  a  place  in  every  flower- 
garden.  In  October  and  November,  when  the  waning  year 
has  left  our  gardens  comparatively  cheerless,  these,  with  their 
various  colors,  deck  them  out  in  gaiety,  and  prolong  the  sem- 
blance of  summer.  They  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  brave 
our  severest  winters. 


The  gold-bordered  red;  the  petals 
are  red,  striped  with  golden  yel- 
low. 

White  quilled. 

Pale  buff,  or  orange. 

Changeable,  red  and  orange  on  same 
plant. 

Lilac  quilled. 

Rose-colored,  or  pink. 

Lilac  and  white,  changeable;  the 
flowers  vary  to  lilac,  to  white  with 
a  purple  centre,  and  to  pure  white. 

Dark  crimson,  or  Spanish  brown. 

Straw-colored  quilled. 

Golden  yellow. 

Tasselled  white. 

Semi-double  quilled  ditto. 

Paper  white. 

Quilled  light  purple. 

Expanded  do.     do. 

Quilled  yellow. 

Double  Indian  yellow. 

Double  Indian  white. 

Dark  purple. 

Early  blush. 

Golden  Lotus. 

Quilled  purple. 

Starry  purple. 


Park's  small  yellow, 
Quilled  salmon. 
Semi-double  quilled. 
Pale  orange. 
Two-colored  red. 
Curled  buff  or  salmon. 
Large  lilac. 
Late  pale  purple. 
Quilled  fine  yellow. 
Sulphur  do. 
Superb  clustered  do. 
Small  do. 

Single  flame  yeUow. 
Quilled  pink. 
Quilled  orange. 
Early  crimson. 
Curled  lilac. 
Two-colored  incurved. 
Blush  ranunculus. 
Late  quilled  purple. 
TasseUed  lilac. 
Tasselled  yellow. 
Yellow  waratah. 
Pale  lilac. 
Large  buff,  superb. 
Barclay's. 
Alton's. 
Sabme's. 


08  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


PROPAGATING    CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

Chrysanthemums  may  be  propagated  from  hardy  cuttings ; 
and  each  plant  will  produce  several  suckers,  which  may  be 
separated  every  spring.  As  the  flowers  are  liable  to  be  injured 
by  the  rain  in  autumn,  it  is  advisable  to  take  up  a  few  plants, 
and  place  them  in  a  light  room  or  green-house,  which  will  pre- 
serve them  for  some  time. 

Many  people  keep  their  late  blooming  plants  in  the  house 
through  the  winter.  This  is  a  bad  practice,  as  the  heat  and 
want  of  air  will  exhaust  or  destroy  the  plants  altogether.  If 
the  flowers  fade  before  hard  frost  prevails,  it  is  best  either  to 
plunge  the  pots  into  the  ground  with  the  plants,  or  to  turn 
them  out  of  the  pots  and  plant  them,  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  into  the  borders  of  the  flower-garden. 

Early  in  May,  such  as  may  be  intended  for  potting  the 
ensuing  season  should  be  divided  at  the  roots,  if  not  potted, 
and  planted,  each  kind  by  itself.  One  single  stem  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  moderate-sized  pot,  if  the  object  be  to  have  bushy 
plants ;  but  if  showy  plants  are  desired,  one  of  each  of  the 
varied  colors  may  be  selected  for  each  pot,  which  should  be 
sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  them  without  crowding  them, 
as  this  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  weak  and  slender.  If 
this  occurs  early  in  the  summer,  a  stocky  growth  may  be  pro- 
duced by  clipping  the  tops,  and  they  will  bloom  in  great 
perfection  in  their  usual  season. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  THE  CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN- 
HOUSE PLANTS. 

To  promote  brevity  and  avoid  tautology,  I  here  submit  the 
following  statement : 


FLOWER-GARDENIXG.  99 

That  the  directions  accompanying  our  Catalogue  of  Annual, 
Biennial,  and  Perennial  Flower  Seed,  will  apply  to  such  plants 
in  the  green-house  department  as  are  ordinarily  raised  from 
seed. 

The  directions  annexed  to  the  Catalogue  of  Flowering  and 
Ornamental  Shrubs,  including  propagation  by  cuttings,  layers, 
etc.,  are  applicable  to  a  great  portion  of  the  plants  hereinafter 
described ;  and  also  to  such  Bulbous  roots  as  are  generally 
embraced  in  green-house  catalogues,  from  their  being  adapted 
to  artificial  culture,  having  been  already  treated  of,  under  each 
head,  in  numerous  articles ;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

With  the  exception  of  hot-house  plants,  which  require  a 
uniformly  warm  climate  to  perpetuate  their  existence,  all  such 
other  tender  and  half-hardy  plants  as  need  protection  in  winter, 
may  come  under  the  denomination  of  green-house  plants ;  some 
species,  however,  may  be  preserved  in  frames,  pits,  cellars,  or 
warm  rooms.  Many  of  those  species  designated  thus  §  and 
thus  |  in  our  first  two  catalogues,  are  of  such  description ;  and 
as  they  have  been  treated  of  in  the  chapters  thereto  annexed, 
the  following  catalogue  and  explication  will  be  necessarily  brief, 
when  compared  with  one  general  catalogue  of  exotic  plants. 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 

Acacia.  Of  this  and  the  Mimosa,  which  are  by  some  con- 
sidered as  one  genus,  there  are  upwards  of  a  hundred  species 
and  varieties,  suited  for  artificial  culture.  The  blossoms,  which 
are  generally  straw-color  and  yellow,  except  the  most  tender, 
some  of  which  are  crimson,  succeed  each  other  from  February 
to  June. 

Agapanthus.  A  beautiful  species  of  Lily,  producing  large 
blue  flowers  from  April  to  June ;  some  varieties  have  striped 
leaves  and  delicate  white  blossoms. 


100  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

Aloe.  Of  this  genus  there  are  numerous  species  and  varieties, 
some  of  which  are  very  curious,  being  possessed  of  all  the  varied 
forms  and  figures  peculiar  to  succulent  plants.  Some  species 
flower  annually  from  March  to  September ;  and  all,  except  the 
Century  Aloe,  blossom  frequently.  The  colors  are  generally 
yellow,  pink,  and  red.  The  singular  figure  and  habits  of  these 
plants  render  them  desirable  for  green-house  culture. 

Alstrcemeria.  Of  this  genus  of  plants  there  are  several  species, 
which  have  tuberous  roots.  The  flowers  of  the  varieties  are  of 
different  shades,  as  rose-colored,  scarlet,  yellow,  red,  etc. ;  and 
some  are  variegated,  as  the  Alstrcemeria  psittacina,  which  is  red, 
yellow,  and  green,  and  the  A.  tricolor,  which  is  black,  white, 
and  yellow.  They  are  beautiful  plants  when  kept  in  good 
order. 

Arbutus,  European  Strawberry  Tree.  A  half-hardy  ever- 
green shrub,  of  which  there  are  several  species  and  varieties, 
producing  crimson  and  pink  blossoms,  and  fruit,  which  remain 
on  the  plant  a  considerable  time. 

Ardesia,  Chinese  Ardesia.  This  is  generally  cultivated  as  a 
hot-house  plant;  and  if  kept  in  the  green-house,  should  be 
placed  in  a  warm  situation.  There  are  several  species,  produc- 
ing oblong  shining  leaves,  pink  flowers,  and  red  berries,  which 
are  very  ornamental. 

Aster  argophyllus,  Musk  Plant.  A  plant  of  no  great  beauty, 
but  esteemed  by  some  for  its  muskj^  fragrance ;  leaves  ovate, 
lanceolate,  and  silky  beneath. 

Aucuba  Japonica.  A  half-hardy  shrub,  with  pale  green 
leaves  spotted  with  yellow.  It  produces  small  purple  blossoms, 
but  is  desirable  for  its  foliage  only :  to  preserve  which  in  good 
condition,  shade  in  the  summer  is  absolutely  necessary. 

Azalea.  The  Chinese  species  of  Azalea  are  numerous  and 
beautiful,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as  white,  purple, 
scarlet,  yellow,  etc.,  and  some  are  striped  and  spotted,  which 
succeed  each  other  from  February  to  May,  under  good  culti- 
vation. 

A  skilful  florist,  Mr.  William  Russell,  has  some  hybrids  which 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  101 

he  raised  by  crosses  between  the  different  species  of  Azaleas 
and  Rhododendrons,  both  of  the  hardy  and  choicest  green* 
house  varieties.  He  has  already  flowered  several  plants,  which 
partake  of  the  Rhododendron  in  the  umbels,  and  embrace  all 
the  good  qualities  of  the  Azalea. 

BanJcsia.  A  genus  of  plants  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  of  which  there  are  over  twenty  species,  all  curious  in 
flower,  and  variable  in  foliage ;  colors,  yellow  and  green.  They 
generally  blossom  from  May  to  August. 

Beaufortia.  There  are  two  species  of  this  beautiful  shrub, 
yielding  scarlet  and  pink  flowers  from  the  sides  of  their  stalks, 
from  May  to  July. 

Bellis  perennis.  Daisy.  This  half-hardy  dwarf  species,  of 
which  there  are  several  varieties,  as  recorded  in  our  Perennial 
Catalogue,  are  worthy  of  further  notice,  from  their  yielding 
thousands  of  button-formed  flowers  from  January  to  July,  or 
until  checked  by  the  summer  heat,  from  which  they  should  be 
screened,  by  being  planted  in  a  shaded  border  in  the  spring. 
The  colors  are  white,  red,  and  variegated,  and  some,  called  Hen 
and  Chicken  Daisies,  grow  in  clusters. 

Bletia  Tankervilli.  A  delicate  plant,  producing  spikes  of 
purple  flowers,  similar  to  the  Hyacinth,  from  April  to  July. 

Bouvardia.  Mexican  Bouvardia.  A  beautiful  plant,  pro- 
ducing brilliant  scarlet  flowers  from  May  to  September,  when 
carefully  cultivated. 

Baron  la.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  natives  of 
New  Holland ;  the  flowers  of  some  are  star-like,  rose-colored, 
and  sweet-scented ;  in  perfection  in  April  and  May. 

Brunia.  This  species  of  plants  have  foliage  similar  to  the 
Erica,  but  the  leaves  are  three-cornered;  the  plants  when 
young  are  very  handsome.  Brunia  nodiflora  produces  chaste 
white  globular  flowers  in  abundance.  There  are  several  other 
varieties  highly  esteemed  by  amateurs. 

Brunsvigia  Josephines.  This  cape  bulb  produces  splendid 
rose-colored  flowers  in  large  umbels,  on  a  stem  about  two  feet 
high.  There  are  several  other  species,  some  of  which  produce 


102  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

scarlet,  others  purple,  and  variegated  blossoms,  in  perfection, 
when  cultivated  in  a  warm  green-house. 

Buddlea  madagascariensis.  This  plant,  when  properly  cul- 
tivated, will  blossom  freely  during  winter,  producing  spikes  of 
orange-colored  flowers,  of  an  agreeable  fragrance. 

Buonapartea  juncea.  This  is  a  curious  low-growing  plant, 
with  long  narrow  leaves,  and  spikes  of  small  blue  flowers, 
which,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  situation,  will  continue 
some  time  in  bloom. 

Burchellia.  A  dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  producing  orange- 
colored  flowers  in  large  terminal  clusters,  from  March  to  June. 

Cactus.  Of  this  family  of  plants  there  are  numerous  species, 
supposed  to  be  of  different  genera,  from  the  variation  of  their 
character  and  habits.  Some  are  denominated  Cereus,  others 
JBpiphyllums,  Mamillarias,  etc.  The  night-blooming  Cereus 
is  much  celebrated.  They  all  belong  to  the  hot-house,  but 
succeed  well  in  a  warm  room  or  good  green-house.  Some  are 
formed  into  erect  pyramids,  others  are  of  a  trailing  habit ;  and 
all  produce  from  the  sides  of  their  succulent  stalks  and  leaves, 
beautiful  crimson,  scarlet,  white,  or  pink  flowers,  from  March 
to  August. 

Calceolaria.  Of  this  species  of  delicate  dwarf  plants,  there 
are  several  splendid  varieties  annually  raised  from  seed,  pro- 
ducing red,  yellow,  and  orange-colored  flowers  from  April  to 
August,  when  shaded  from  the  noon-day  sun.  They  will  other- 
wise suffer  from  heat. 

Calothamnus.  A  beautiful  evergreen  shrub,  similar  to  a 
dwarf  pine,  producing  scarlet  blossoms  from  the  old  wood, 
from  April  to  November. 

Callicoma  serratifolia.  A  beautiful  plant,  producing  tufted 
yellow  heads  of  flowers  from  May  to  July. 

Camellia.  Of  this  admired  winter-blooming  genus  of  plants, 
there  are  several  distinct  species,  the  varieties  from  many  of 
which  multiply  annually.  Its  durable  glossy  foliage,  and 
splendid  flowers,  which  excel  those  of  any  other  plant,  will 
insure  it  a  preeminence  in  every  green-house ;  as  in  good  col- 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  103 

lections,  flowers  of  various  hues  may  be  gathered  from  October 
to  May.  Those  who  grow  Camellias  must  supply  them  mode- 
rately with  tepid  water  when  in  flower,  and  for  those  out  of 
flower,  the  warmest  position  must  be  given  to  induce  them  to 
make  an  early  growth.  Sponge  the  leaves  weekly,  to  keep 
them  clean,  and  to  prevent  the  accumulation  of  dust  upon 
them. 

Cheiranthus.  Under  this  title  have  been  generally  embraced 
all  those  fragrant  and  beautiful  half-hardy  species  of  Biennial 
Plants  known  as  Wall  and  Gilly  Flowers ;  the  latter  species  is 
now,  however,  denominated  Matthiola  in  our  catalogues.  The 
beautiful  blossoms  and  delicious  fragrance  of  these  families, 
from  February  to  June,  entitle  them  to  more  than  a  passing 
notice.  Their  perfumes  are  exquisite. 

Cineraria  cruenta.  Canary  Aster.  A  dwarf  half-shrubby 
plant,  producing  purple  flowers  in  April  and  May. 

Cineraria  maritima.  Silvery-leaved  Ragwort,  or  Powdered 
Beau.  A  white  plant,  producing  bright  yellow  globular  flow- 
ers from  April  to  June  or  July. 

Cistus.  Rock  Rose.  A  half-hardy  dwarf  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  upwards  of  twenty  species,  natives  of  Europe ;  the 
flowers,  which  are  *white  and  purple,  multiply  abundantly  in 
May  and  June. 

Citrus.  Orange,  Lemon,  etc.  This  genus  embraces  the 
Orange,  Lemon,  Lime,  Shaddock,  etc.,  of  each  of  which  there 
are  several  varieties.  They  are  indispensable  in  a  good  green- 
house, for  their  handsome  evergreen  foliage,  and  odoriferous 
blossoms,  and  beautiful  golden  fruit,  which  by  careful  cultiva- 
tion may  be  kept  constantly  on  the  plants.  Those  varieties 
with  variegated,  yellow,  and  green  foliage,  are  very  generally 
admired. 

Clethra  arborea  variegata.  A  fine  sweet-scented  shrub,  pro- 
ducing spikes  of  white  downy  blossoms  ;  the  leaves  are  oblong 
and  serrated,  having  a  gold-colored  edge. 

Correa.  A  genus  of  dwarf  shrubby  plants,  consisting  of 
several  species,  producing  their  orange,  white,  red,  and  green 


104  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

blossoms  frequently  in  the  winter,  and  sometimes  in  May  or 
June. 

Coronilla  glauca.  A  desirable  green-house  dwarf  shrub, 
yielding  numerous  sweet-scented  yellow  flowers  in  clusters, 
from  January  to  April.  There  are  other  varieties  which  blos- 
som in  summer. 

Cotyledon  orbiculata.  Cape  Navelwort.  A  succulent  plant, 
producing  finger-like  suckers  and  successional  joints,  which 
blossom  annually ;  the  curiosity  of  the  foliage,  however,  is  its 
chief  recommendation. 

Crassula.  A  species  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  producing 
scarlet  and  variegated  wax-like  flowers  from  April  to  June  or 
July. 

Crinum  amdbile.  A  large  beautiful  flowering  bulb,  of 
which  there  are  several  species,  chiefly  calculated  for  hot- 
house culture,  where  some  varieties  frequently  yield  three 
stems  of  beautiful  crimson,  purple,  or  white  flowers  in  a  year. 

Cypripedium  insignis.  This  species  is  known  by  the  name 
of  Lady's  Slipper  Plant ;  the  flowers,  which  are  green  and 
purple,  have  a  waxy  appearance,  and  are  similar  in  shape  to 
an  Indian  shoe.  It  should  be  cultivated-  in  a  warm,  moist 
situation. 

Daphne  odor  a.  A  beautiful  dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  yield- 
ing white  fragrant  blossoms  in  many-flowered  terminal  heads, 
from  December  to  March.  There  are  other  species  and  varie- 
ties, one  of  which  has  its  leaves  edged  with  yellow. 

Dianthus.  Under  this  name  are  embraced  the  admirable 
species  of  Carnations,  Picotees,  Pinks,  Sweet  Williams,  etc., 
recorded  in  our  Catalogue  of  Perennials ;  and  which  are  in 
universal  esteem  for  the  fragrance  and  beauty  of  their  flowers, 
which  succeed  each  other  from  May  to  August.  They  are  all 
hardy,  except  the  Carnation  and  Picotee  tribes,  which  are  well 
deserving  green-house  or  frame  culture. 

Diosma.  A  dwarf  genus  of  heath-leaved  shrubs,  producing 
numerous  small  flowers  of  a  white  color  from  March  to  May. 
Some  of  the  varieties  are  sweet-scented. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  105 

Dryandrus.  To  this  genus  belong  several  species,  similar 
to  the  Banksias ;  they  are  delicate  plants,  producing  orange 
and  straw-colored  thistle-like  flowers  in  abundance. 

Echeveria.  This  genus  of  succulent  plants  are  natives  of 
Mexico  and  California.  Some  of  the  species  produce  green 
and  red  blossoms ;  the  flowers  of  the  variety  pulverulenta  are 
red,  and  the  foliage  is  covered  with  powder,  which  gives  it  a 
beautiful  appearance. 

Epa.cris.  This  is  a  native  of  New  South  Wales,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  mostly  erect-growing  plants,  varying 
from  two  to  four  feet ;  the  leaves  are  small,  and  the  blossoms, 
which,  in  different  varieties,  are  crimson,  pink,  purple,  and 
white,  are,  under  good  cultivation,  abundant  from  January  to 
June. 

JEranthemum.  This  species  belong  to  the  hot-house,  and 
will  not  flower  in  perfection  without  plenty  of  heat.  The 
Eranthemum  pulchellum  produces  flowers  of  a  fine  blue  color 
from  December  to  April ;  and  the  Eranihemum  bicolor  will 
yield  purple  and  white  flowers  from  April  to  August,  under 
good  cultivation. 

Ulrica,  Heath.  Upwards  of  five  hundred  species  and  varieties 
of  this  plant  are  cultivated  in  Great  Britain,  where  a  continued 
succession  of  bloom  is  kept  up  from  January  to  December. 
The  most  prominent  colors  are  white,  scarlet,  purple,  yellow, 
and  red.  They  are  desirable  plants  to  cultivate  in  any  coun- 
try, as  they  furnish  material  for  the  bouquet  in  winter ;  but 
they  must  be  screened  from  the  noon-day  sun  in  summer,  and 
only  moderately  watered,  as  extremes  of  drought  or  moisture 
are  destructive  to  this  family  of  plants. 

Erythrina,  Coral  Plant.  There  are  several  species  of  this 
plant,  chiefly  adapted  to  the  hot-house,  producing  long  spikes 
of  crimson  or  scarlet  flowers.  Some  keep  them  in  good  con- 
dition in  a  green-house  ;  they  must,  however,  be  well  attended 
to,  and  frequently  repotted,  which  will  sometimes  induce 
them  to  bloom  two  or  three  times  in  a  year. 

Escallonia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  some  of 

5* 


103  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

which  will  survive  the  winters  of  our  Southern  States.  When 
cultivated  in  a  green-house  as  half-hardy  shrubs,  they  yield 
their  red,  white,  and  pink  flowers  throughout  a  long  season. 

tfuonymus.  This  plant  is  called  by  some  the  variegated 
Camellia ;  the  flowers  are  not  very  sho\vy,  but  the  silvery  and 
golden-edged  foliage  of  the  different  varieties  renders  them  very 
attractive.  They  are  natives  of  China. 

Euphorbia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant  adapted 
to  the  green-house,  some  of  which  are  beautiful,  especially  the 
E.  splendens,  and  Poinsett's  scarlet,  or  Euphorbia  Poinsetti. 
They  flower  freely  from  December  to  May,  if  kept  in  a  warm 
part  of  the  house. 

Eupatorium  elegans.  A  dwarf  plant,  producing  white  sweet- 
scented  flowers  early  in  the  spring ;  to  promote  bushiness,  the 
plant,  after  blossoming,  should  be  closely  pruned. 

Eutaxia  myrtifolia.  A  beautiful  little  evergreen  shrub; 
foliage  small,  but  very  neat,  furnishing  numerous  red  and 
yellow-colored  blossoms  from  March  to  May,  under  good 
culture. 

Ficus  elastica,  India-rubber  Tree,  and  Ficus  australis,  are 
both  evergreen  plants,  and  grow  luxuriantly  in  a  green-house  ; 
the  foliage,  which  is  large  and  glossy,  is  pink  on  the  under 
side. 

Ficus,  Fig  Tree.  A  plant  easily  cultivated,  of  which  there 
are  many  species  and  varieties,  which,  kept  in  pots  or  tubs,  in 
a  temperature  adapted  to  the  Orange  tree,  will  fruit  freely,  and 
ripen  two  crops  a  year. 

Fuchsia,  Lady's  Ear-drop.  Of  this  beautiful  shrub  there  are 
several  varieties,  producing  clusters  of  small  scarlet  flowers,  the 
stamens  of  which  are  encircled  with  a  petal  of  purple ;  in  bloom 
from  April  to  September. 

Gardenia,  Cape  Jasmine.  A  very  popular  evergreen  plant, 
producing  white  fragrant  rose-like  flowers  from  May  to  August. 
There  are  several  species  and  varieties,  some  of  which  are  more 
dwarfish  than  others,  but  all  are  desirable. 

Gelsemium  nitidum,  Carolina  Jasmine.     A  beautiful  climbing 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  107 

evergreen,  producing  in  the  month  of  May  large  yellow  trumpet- 
like  blossoms,  of  delicious  fragrance. 

Gloxinia.  A  desirable  herbaceous  plant,  of  which  there  are 
several  varieties,  yielding  beautiful  showy  flowers ;  colors,  blue, 
lilac,  and  white. 

Gnaphalium,  Everlasting  Flower.  Of  this  plant  there  are 
several  species  or  varieties,  some  of  which  yield  clusters  of 
yellow  flowers,  and  others  red,  from  March  to  June. 

Gnidia,  Flax-leaved  Gnidia.  A  dwarf  shrub,  of  which  there 
are  several  varieties,  furnishing  pretty  tubular  and  corymbose 
straw-colored  flowers  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

Grevillea.  There  are  several  species  of  this  evergreen  dwarf 
shrub,  which  are  very  handsome  in  flower  and  foliage.  The 
flowers  of  some  grow  in  racemose  spikes,  and  of  others  on 
flowering  branches ;  the  colors  are  white,  rose,  green,  and  straw 
or  light  yellow.  They  yield  seed,  and  are  easily  cultivated. 

Heliotropium,  Peruvian  Heliotrope.  A  species  of  soft 
shrubby  dwarf  plants,  which,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  situa- 
tion, will  yield  abundance  of  delicate  blue  or  purple  flowers 
from  January  to  September. 

Helychrysum,  Eternal  Flower.  There  are  several  species  and 
varieties  of  this  plant,  producing  soft  downy  foliage  and  durable 
flowers,  which,  if  cut  before  they  are  too  far  advanced,  will 
retain  their  splendor  several  years. 

Hibbertia.  A  species  of  climbing  evergreen  shrubs,  which 
yield  fine  yellow  flowers  in  succession  from  May  to  September, 
under  good  culture. 

Hibiscus  Chinensis.  This  half-hardy  herbaceous*  plant  is 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  green-house,  as  some  species  will  yield 
flowers  six  inches  in  diameter,  if  well  attended  to  and  frequently 
watered ;  the  colors  are  crimson  and  blush. 

Hovea.  This  is  a  pea-flowering  evergreen  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  natives  of  New  South  Wales.  The 
Hovea  celsii  is  a  beautiful  runner,  yielding  numerous  blue 
flowers. 

Hoya,  Wax  Plant.     A  fine  climbing  species,  adapted  to  the 


108  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

hot-house ;  the  leaves  being  succulent,  green,  and  fleshy,  they 
require  considerable  heat  and  but  little  water.  Some  produce 
pink  flowers,  and  others  white,  in  April  and  May. 

Hydrangea  hortensis.  The  Hydrangea  is  a  well  known  deci 
duous,  half-hardy,  soft-wooded  shrub,  producing  large  pink  balls 
of  blossom,  when  cultivated  in  a  shaded  border,  from  May  to 
October;  and  by  mixing  iron  dust  from  a  blacksmith's  shop 
with  the  soil,  or  by  growing  the  plants  in  swamp  earth,  or 
mould  from  decayed  leaves,  the  flowers  will  become  blue. 

Illicum,  Aniseed  Tree.  A  dwarf  species  of  shrub,  the  leaves 
of  which,  when  rubbed,  smell  like  anise ;  some  produce  red,  and 
others  yellow  flowers  in  March  and  April. 

Indigofera,  Indigo  Tree.  A  free  flowering  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  species ;  the  flowers,  which  grow  in  long  pin- 
nacles, are  red,  yellow,  and  pink. 

Jacarandus.  A  genus  of  evergreen  shrubs,  of  easy  culture, 
containing  five  species,  most  of  which  produce  blue  or  purple 
flowers,  on  loose  branching  panicles,  in  abundance. 

Jambosa  vulgaris.  This  species  of  evergreen  shrub  is  gene- 
rally called  Rose  Apple,  from  its  producing  rose- scented  fruit, 
which  is  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  eatable.  There  are 
several  varieties,  yielding  either  white,  rose,  green,  or  straw- 
colored  flowers  hi  erect  spreading  stamens.  They  are  of  easy 
culture. 

Jasminum,  Jasmine.  Of  this  favorite  genus  there  are  seve- 
ral species,  of  various  complexions.  The  Catalonian  Jasmine, 
or  J.  grandiflorum,  produces  white  fragrant  blossoms  in  winter ; 
the  Indian  Jasmine,  or  J.  odoratissimum,  and  also  the  J.  revo- 
lutum,  yield  very  sweet-scented  yellow  flowers  from  April  to 
June,  and  the  J.  officinale,  a  climbing  plant,  blossoms  through 
the  summer. 

Justicia.  The  plants  of  this  genus  are  generally  cultivated 
in  the  hot-house;  some  produce  scarlet  flowers  in  large 
terminal  spikes,  from  December  to  March,  and  others  pur- 
ple. 

Kennedia.     A  beautiful  evergreen  climber,  of  which  there 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  109 

are  several  species,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as 
scarlet,  blue,  crimson,  and  purple,  from  February  to  June. 

Lager  sir  cemia.  A  half-hardy  deciduous- plant,  the  roots  of 
which,  if  planted  in  the  garden  in  March,  will  produce  large 
spikes  of  red  flowers,  from  May  to  August. 

Lantana.  A  genus  of  dwarf  shruos,  which  being  cultivated 
in  the  hot-house,  or  warm  green-house,  will  yield  their  blos- 
soms in  April  and  May  ;  the  species  are  of  various  colors ;  yel- 
low, orange,  pink,  white,  purple,  and  variable. 

Laurus  nobilis,  Laurel.  This  evergreen  shrub  is  by  some 
esteemed  for  its  fragrant  leaves ;  there  are  several  species  dis- 
tinguished as  sweet  bay,  royal  bay,  etc.,  and  some  species  are 
without  scent. 

Lavandula,  Lavender.  A  species  of  soft-wooded,  half-hardy 
plants,  with  narrow,  scented  leaves,  yielding  spikes  of  fragrant 
blue  flowers  in  May  and  June. 

Lechenaultia  formosa.  A  dwarf  plant  with  heath-like  foli- 
age and  bright  scarlet  blossoms  ;  in  bloom  a  long  season  under 
good  culture. 

Leptospermum.  This  genus  is  somewhat  celebrated  from  the 
leaves  of  the  species  L.  scoparium  being  used  by  the  crew  of 
Captain  Cook's  ship  as  a  substitute  for  Tea,  the  leaves  having 
an  agreeable  bitter  flavor ;  the  blossoms,  which  are  small,  are 
white. 

Leucodendron,  Silver  Tree.  A  neat  evergreen  shrub,  with 
silver-like  foliage,  of  which  there  are  several  species,  all  admi- 
rable for  their  beauty. 

Linum,  Flax.  Two  species  of  this  plant  are  worthy  of  cul- 
tivation in  a  green-house,  where  they  will  bloom  in  February 
and  March.  The  Linum  trigynum  produces  large  yellow 
flowers  in  clusters,  and  Linum  ascyrifolium  yields  spikes  of 
blue  and  white  flowers,  which  are  similar  to  those  of  the  Con- 
volvulus. 

Lobelia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  which  are 
generally  herbaceous ;  they  produce  an  abundance  of  little 
flowers  of  brilliant  colors.  The  Lobelia  crinus  is  a  pretty 


110  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

trailing  plant,  yielding  numerous  blue  flowers    all   the  sum 
mer. 

Lychnis  coronata,  Coronet-flowered  Lychnis.  This  half-hardy 
plant,  embraced  in  our  Catalogue  of  Perennials,  is  worthy  of 
protection,  from  its  furnishing  trusses  of  beautiful  orange  scar- 
let flowers,  from  June  to  August.  As  it  yields  no  seed,  the 
roots  should  be  taken  from  the  ground  in  autumn,  and  returned 
the  ensuing  spring. 

Magnolia.  Most  of  the  species  of  this  justly  admired  genus 
are  hardy,  and  blossom  in  the  summer;  there  are,  however, 
some  of  the  Chinese  varieties,  which,  cultivated  in  a  green- 
house, will  produce  their  beautiful  purple,  yellow,  and  white 
blossoms,  from  January  to  April. 

Mclaleucas.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants,  natives  of  New 
Holland;  the  diversity  of  their  foliage  and  singularity  of 
flowers,  some  of  which  are  scarlet,  and  shoot  from  the  wood 
like  fringes,  render  them  worthy  of  good  cultivation. 

Menettia.  This  is  a  desirable  climber,  of  which  there  are 
several  species ;  some  produce  variegated  flowers,  others  bright 
scarlet,  and  the  variety  cordiflora  is  curious  as  well  as  beautiful. 

Mesembryanthemum.  A  genus  of  succulent  plants,  consist- 
ing of  hundreds  of  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  vary  greatly  in  their  forms,  atti- 
tudes, and  habits  of  growth  ;  some  are  upright,  others  procum- 
bent ;  some  are  thick,  others  cimeter  or  slender-leaved.  They 
are  all  singular,  and  many  of  them  beautiful.  The  colors  of  the 
flowers,  which  are  of  every  shade,  are  great  ornaments  from 
May  to  August ;  some  species  and  varieties  are  cultivated  as 
annuals  in  the  flower-garden,  where  they  prove  a  great  acquisi- 
tion. 

Metrosideros.  A  genus  of  Australasian  shrubs,  some  species 
of  which  are  willow  and  others  spear-leaved,  producing  their 
cones  of  scarlet  or  white  flowers  from  March  to  May. 

Myrtus,  Myrtle.  A  genus  of  dwarf  evergreen  shrubs,  of 
which  there  are  several  species  and  varieties;  the  foliage  is 
chiefly  glossy  and  fragrant,  yielding  numerous  small  flowers. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  Ill 

There  are  some  species  known  as  Cape  Myrtles,  or  Marsines, 
which  also  yield  abundance  of  white  and  purple  flowers  from 
March  to  May. 

Nandina  domestica,  Japan  Nandina.  A  half-hardy  ever- 
green shrub ;  leaves  supra-decompound,  with  entire  lanceolate 
leaflets;  a  kind  of  foliage  that  is  very  rare. 

Nerium,  Oleander.  A  well  known  and  admired  shrub, 
yielding  clusters  of  rose-like  flowers  from  May  to  September. 
The  Nerium  splendens  is  the  most  esteemed  of  the  red  varieties ; 
the  true  double  white  and  striped  are  very  rare  ;  but  some  of 
those  cultivated  for  sale,  producing  semi-double  flowers,  are  by 
no  means  desirable. 

Olea  fragrans,  Dwarf  Olive.  This  variety  of  the  Olive 
recommends  itself  to  notice,  for  its  dwarf  habit  of  growth,  and 
from  the  foliage  and  white  blossoms  being  highly  odoriferous ; 
from  March  to  May. 

Passiflora,  Passion  Flower.  Of  this  celebrated  genus  of 
climbing  plants,  there  are  several  species  and  varieties,  which 
produce  splendid  flowers  of  various  colors,  red,  blue,  white, 
purple,  scarlet,  etc.,  beautifully  contrasted,  and  some  species 
yield  fruit.  They  generally  blossom  from  May  to  September, 
and  some  will  flower  in  the  hot-house  in  winter. 

Pelargonium,  Geranium.  The  species  and  varieties  of  this 
beautiful  genus  are  supposed  to  exceed  a  thousand,  which  are  of 
every  character,  color,  and  lineament,  and  some  so  beautifully 
blended  as  to  astonish  the  beholder ;  the  agreeable  fragrance 
also,  of  which  many  of  them  are  possessed,  will  always  render 
them  favorites  to  amateur  florists.  The  best  blooming  season 
is  from  April  to  June  or  July. 

Pittosporum.  A  Chinese  evergreen  shrub,  with  handsome 
glossy  foliage,  yielding  numerous  white  clusters  of  flowers  in 
April  and  May,  which  are  of  delicious  fragrance.  There  are 
several  species,  one  of  which  is  variegated. 

Plumbago  capensis,  Cape  Plumbago.  A  beautiful  dwarf 
plant,  with  oblong  leaves,  yielding  numerous  spikes  of  showv 
blue  flowers  nearly  all  the  summer. 


112  FLOWER-GARDENIXG. 

Polygata  cordata,  Heart-shaped  Polygata.  A  beautiful  little 
plant,  producing  abundance  of  rich  purple  flowers  nearly  all 
the  winter. 

Protea.  A  beautiful  race  of  plants,  the  foliage  of  which  is 
very  diversified,  and  the  flowers  also  ;  being  red,  white,  straw, 
brown,  green,  and  purple,  and  most  of  these  colors  are  fre- 
quently to  be  seen  on  the  same  plant ;  in  flower  from  March 
to  June. 

Primula.  In  this  genus  are  embraced  all  the  varieties  of 
the  Primrose,  Polyanthus,  Auricula,  Cowslip,  Oxlip,  etc., 
already  inserted  in  our  Biennial  and  Perennial  catalogues. 
The  flowers,  which  appear  early  in  spring,  are  mostly  sweet- 
scented,  and  of  various  colors,  red,  white,  yellow,  lilac,  purple, 
crimson,  etc.,  which  in  some  are  beautifully  variegated.  The 
above  are  natives  of  England ;  besides  which  are  two  varieties, 
white  and  pink,  natives  of  China,  producing  umbels  of  flowers 
from  January  to  May. 

Pyrus  Japonica  alba,  or  Cydonia  Japonica.  One  of  the 
earliest  flowering  dwarf  shrubs  of  the  garden,  producing 
beautiful  blush  flowers ;  there  is  another  variety,  which  pro- 
duces scarlet  blossoms,  already  described  in  our  catalogue  of 
shrubs. 

Reseda,  Mignonette.  This  fragrant  little  plant  has  been 
already  treated  of  as  an  annual ;  it  may,  however,  be  kept 
under  cultivation  from  January  to  December,  by  sowing  seed 
at  different  seasons  in  a  green-house  or  warm  room. 

Rhododendron,  Rose  Bay.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants, 
chiefly  natives  of  India,  furnishing  clusters  of  flowers  of  various 
shades,  as  purple,  scarlet,  or  crimson,  and  these  variegated  in 
spots  and  flakes  ;  in  flower  from  March  to  May. 

Rosca,  Rose.  This  Queen  of  Flowers,  so  universally  ad- 
mired, nature  seems  to  have  distributed  over  the  whole  civil- 
ized world ;  and  varieties  have  been  so  multiplied  of  late 
years,  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  make  a  judicious  choice  ;  many 
of  the  new  varieties,  however,  being  shy  bloomers,  are  not  so 
desirable  for  green-house  culture  as  the  common  China  Rose, 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  113 

a  select  assortment  of  which,  carefully  cultivated,  will  produce 
blossoms  from  January  to  December. 

Rosmarinus,  Rosemary.  A  fragrant,  half-hardy,  slender- 
leaved  plant,  which  has  been  held  in  great  esteem  for  ages. 
In  some  parts  of  Europe  it  is  customary  to  distribute  sprigs 
among  the  guests  at  weddings  and  funerals. 

Ruella.  A  desirable  plant,  of  which  there  are  several  spe- 
cies ;  they  produce  purple  or  scarlet  tunnel-shaped  flowers 
from  December  to  March. 

Salvia,  Mexican  Sage.  A  free-blooming  plant,  producing, 
in  the  different  species,  scarlet  and  blue  flowers  in  spiked 
whorls ;  cuttings  of  which,  if  taken  from  stock  plants  in  the 
green-house  early  in  spring,  and  planted  in  good  garden  soil, 
will  embellish  the  borders  three  or  four  months  of  the  sum- 
mer. 

Sempervivum  arboreum,  Tree  House  Leek.  A  succulent 
plant,  similar  to  tire  common  house  leek,  on  a  dwarfish  stem ; 
by  some  admired  as  an  evergreen. 

Stapelia.  A  genus  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  producing 
beautiful  purple,  striped,  freckled,  and  star-like  flowers,  within 
six  inches  of  the  surface ;  in  its  varieties  from  May  to  No- 
vember. 

Stevia  serrata,  Vanilla-scented  Stevia.  This  plant,  although 
usually  cultivated  as  an  annual,  is  worthy  of  green-house  cul- 
ture, from  its  affording  fragrant  and  ornamental  materials  for 
bouquets  the  whole  winter. 

Strelitzia  regina,  Queen's  Strelitz.  A  beautiful  dwarf  plant, 
producing  from  a  stalk,  from  one  to  two  feet  long,  several  flow- 
ers of  a  bright  yellow,  contrasted  with  blue,  from  May  to  Sep- 
tember. 

Tecoma  capensis.  A  perennial  plant,  producing  orange- 
colored  trumpet-flowers  in  clusters,  very  similar  to  the  Bigoma 
tribe,  towards  the  end  of  summer. 

Thea,  Tea.  Of  this  celebrated  Chinese  plant,  which  sup- 
plies a  great  portion  of  the  human  family  with  their  domestic 
beverage,  there  are  two  varieties,  Thea  viridis  and  Thea  bohca. 


114  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

The  plants,  when  cultivated  in  a  green-house,  are  by  no  means 
of  rapid  growth,  nor  are  the  flowers,  which  are  white,  of  any 
great  beauty. 

Tussilago  fragrans.  A  half-hardy  herbaceous  perennial 
plant,  by  some  much  esteemed  for  its  heliotrope-scented  blos- 
soms, which  spring  up  in  clusters  from  December  to  March. 

Verbena  triphylla,  named  in  some  catalogues  Aloysia  citri- 
odora.  A  deciduous  shrub,  generally  admired  for  the  fragrance 
of  its  leaves,  which  is  its  chief  recommendation,  the  blossoms, 
which  are  white,  being  small. 

Verbena,  Splendid  Verbena.  A  tribe  of  plants  increasing  in 
variety  annually,  and  which  already  embrace  every  shade  of 
color,  scarlet,  blue,  rose,  lilac,  white,  pink,  etc.  Planted  in  the 
flower-borders,  they  impart  beauty  and  variety  through  the 
summer,  and  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  they  embellish  it  a 
great  part  of  the  winter. 

Viburnum  tinus,  Laurustinus.  A  much-admired  half-hardy 
evergreen  shrub,  producing  clusters  of  white  blossoms  from 
January  to  May.  There  are  other  species  very  similar  in  habit, 
and  one  with  striped  leaves. 

Viola,  Violet.  Of  these  beauties  of  the  garden,  some  of 
which  are  denominated  "  Florists'  Flowers,"  there  are  upwards 
of  a  hundred  species  and  varieties.  The  early  Violets  are 
highly  fragrant,  and  the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  Pansy 
tribe  almost  exceed  description  or  conception.  As  these  splen- 
did dwarf  plants  decorate  the  green-house  and  flower-borders 
from  January  to  December,  they  are  worthy  of  careful  culti- 
vation. 

Yucca  aloe-folia,  and  its  beautiful  variety,  variegata,  are 
desirable  plants  to  cultivate,  from  their  singular  appearance, 
contrasted  with  other  plants.  Their  blossoms,  which  are 
white,  grow  in  spikes,  but  the  plants  do  not  flower  much  uvtil 
several  years  old. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  115 


MANAGEMENT  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  COLD 
WEATHER. 


"  Descending  snow,  the  yellow  leaf  and  sear, 
Are  indications  of  old  Time's  career; 
The  careful  florist  tends  his  sheltered  plants, 
Studies  their  nature,  and  supplies  their  wants.1 


Green-bouse  plants  will  need  constant  care  and  attention. 
When  water  is  necessary,  let  it  be  given  in  mild  weather  (99). 
In  case  of  accidents  happening  from  frost,  I  would  remark,  that 
the  sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat  is  often  more  destruc- 
tive to  plants  than  frost  itself.  If  plants  get  frozen,  and  can- 
not be  screened  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  they  should  be 
watered  as  the  air  becomes  warm,  and  before  they  begin  to 
thaw.  If  sufficient  attention  be  paid,  so  as  to  have  the  tem- 
perature of  the  house  rise  gradually  as  the  water  is  sprinkled 
over  the  leaves,  it  may  be  a  means  of  preserving  plants  that 
would  otherwise  be  destroyed. 

See  that  the  green-house,  or  room,  in  which  plants  are  kept, 
is  so  secure  as  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  cold  air,  or  the 
escape  of  warm  air  in  the  night  season.  All  kinds  of  tender 
plants  in  pots  should  be  set  into  frames  or  pits,  and  plunged  in 
old  tan  or  light  mould;  and  in  the  event  of  severe  frosts, 
coverings  of  mats,  straw,  etc.,  must  be  laid  over  them. 

In  the  early  part  of  October,  preparation  must  be  made  for 
the  housing  of  green-house  plants.  Previous  to  this  being 
done,  let  the  room  or  green-house  be  whitewashed  with  lime, 
which  will  prove  pernicious  to  insects,  and  prevent  their  gene- 
rating among  the  plants.  Begin  the  first  week  in  this  month 
to  place  all  the  shrubby  plants,  such  as  Orange  and  Lemon 
trees,  on  the  back  shelves ;  others  should  be  so  placed  that 
they  can  be  cultivated  to  advantage ;  and  they  should  all  be 
arranged  in  regular  gradation,  so  as  to  have  the  low-growing  or 
dwarf  plants  on  the  front  shelves. 


116  FLOWER  GARDENING. 

Such  green-house  plants  as  may  have  been  repotted  and 
pruned  in  the  course  of  the  last  month,  should  be  looked 
over,  and  if  they  have  taken  root,  they  should  be  exposed 
gradually  to  the  sun,  and  watered  moderately  in  dry  weather. 
If  any  of  the  green-house  plants  were  plunged  in  the  flower- 
beds, they  should  be  taken  up  and  pruned  early  in  October, 
and  then  put  into  suitable-sized  pots.  Hali-hardy  perennials, 
such  as  Carnations,  Daisies,  Primulas,  Lilies,  Hydrangeas,  etc., 
should  be  taken  up,  divided  carefully  at  the  roots,  and  then 
put  into  moderate-sized  pots,  and  attended  to  as  before  direct- 
ed for  green-house  plants.  Many  hardy  kinds  of  flower  seed 
may  be  sown  this  month.  This  is  a  good  season  to  propagate 
all  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  plants,  by  parting  the  roots ;  and 
those  that  were  raised  from  seed  in  the  spring,  may  be  trans- 
planted into  regular  flower-beds,  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather. 
Such  Chrysanthemums  as  are  intended  to  be  protected  while 
in  blossom,  should  now  be  taken  up  and  planted  in  moderate- 
sized  pots.  Before  the  winter  sets  in  severely,  let  such  Chrys- 
anthemums as  may  have  been  cultivated  in  pots  be  planted  in 
the  garden,  or  as  soon  as  they  have  done  blossoming. 

Mignonette,  and  other  tender  seedling  plants  under  protec- 
tion, will  require  attention  at  all  seasons.  They  should  not 
be  over-watered,  or  the  plants  will  perish  with  mildew. 

Camellias  should  be  frequently  syringed  while  in  bud,  or 
watered  over  the  foliage  with  a  rose  attached  "to  the  watering- 
pot,  as  should  all  other  shrubby  plants. 

WATERING    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 

Temperance  in  the  use  of  water  is  of  the  utmost  importance 
in  the  winter  season,  for  several  reasons  which  may  be  given.  In 
the  first  place,  water  will  attract  frost,  and,  therefore,  should 
be  used  very  sparingly  in  frosty  weather ;  another  consideration 
is,  that  in  the  absence  of  heat  and  air,  plants  cannot  absorb 
much  moisture,  and,  consequently,  must  become  injured  from 
excessive  watering ;  and  it  may  be  observed  further,  that  it  is 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  117 

not  prudent  to  keep  plants  in  an  extremely  vigorous  state,  until 
the  season  arrives  when  the  external  air  is  soft  and  salubrious  *, 
they  can  then  have  a  due  proportion  of  heat,  air,  and  moisture 
at  the  same  time. 

A  Fahrenheit  thermometer  is  indispensable  in  a  green-house, 
or  room  where  plants  are  kept,  and  the  temperature  should  be 
always  kept  up  as  nearly  as  possible  to  forty  degrees,  in  the 
absence  of  the  sun.  If  the  gardener  retire  to  rest  in  this  varia- 
ble climate,  leaving  the  mercury  much  below  forty,  he  may 
expect  to  find  his  plants  frozen  in  the  morning. 

A  good  brick  flue  is  better  calculated  for  heating  a  small 
green-house  than  any  other  contrivance  ;  because,  after  a  suffi- 
cient fire  has  been  made  to  heat  the  bricks  thoroughly,  they 
will  retain  the  heat  through  a  winter  night,  whereas  an  iron 
stove  with  its  metal  pipes  will  cool  as  the  fire  gets  low,  and 
expose  the  plants  to  cold  towards  morning,  which  is  the  time 
they  most  need  protection.  The  heat  from  iron  is,  moreover, 
too  dry  and  parching,  while  an  evaporation  or  salubrious  steam 
may  be  raised  from  bricks,  by  sprinkling  the  flue  occasionally, 
which  would  operate  on  plants  similar  to  healthful  dew-drops. 

In  cold  weather  sitting-rooms  or  parlors  are  generally  heated 
in  the  daytime  to  full  twenty  -degrees  higher  than  what  is 
necessary  for  the  preservation  of  plants ;  consequently,  as  the 
heat  decreases  in  the  night  season,  plants  often  get  injured, 
unless  a  fire  is  kept  up.  Air  must  be  admitted  to  plants 
kept  in  this  way,  at  all  opportunities ;  and  more  water  will  be 
necessary  for  such  plants,  than  those  kept  in  a  green-house 
would  require. 

Green-house  plants  will  need  daily  care  in  hot  and  dry 
weather.  They  should  be  watered  every  evening.  Such  Gera- 
niums as  may  have  grown  large  and  unwieldy,  should  be  pruned, 
in  order  that  their  size  and  appearance  may  be  improved. 

Garden  Roses,  having  done  flowering  for  the  season,  should 
also  be  pruned.  Cut  out  all  old  exhausted  wood,  and  where  it 
is  too  thick  and  crowded,  shorten  such  shoots  as  have  flowered, 
to  a  fresh  strong  eye,  or  bud,  accompanied  with  a  healthy  leaf. 


118  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

All  wood  that  grows  after  this  pruning  will  ripen  perfectly,  and 
produce  large  flowers  the  ensuing  year. 

If  the  weather  be  warm  and  dry,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
water  such  flowering  shrubs  and  Roses  as  were  planted  in  the 
spring ;  and  if  Dahlia  plants  could  be  watered  two  or  three 
times  a  week,  it  would  be  beneficial  to  their  growth.  Give 
regular  sprinklings  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  or  syringe, 
to  shrubby  plants  in  general,  but  particularly  Camellias,  Orange 
and  Lemon  trees,  etc.,  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy  state. 

Bulbous  roots  in  pots,  whose  foliage  has  withered,  should  be 
kept  dry  until  the  period  of  regermination.  Others  may  be 
taken  up  as  soon  as  ripe ;  after  which  the  offsets  may  be  parted 
off,  and  both  these  and  the  parent  bulbs  dried  for  planting  in 
autumn. 

The  flower-garden  should  be  kept  weeded  and  watered,  and 
the  seeds  gathered  as  they  ripen.  Apply  neat  rods  to  tall- 
growing  and  running  kinds  of  plants.  Nip  off  curled  and  dead 
leaves,  and  destroy  insects.  Hydrangeas,  Daisies,  Polyanthus, 
Primulas,  etc.,  should  be  kept  shaded  from  the  noon-day  sun,  or 
they  will  droop,  and  some  may  die.  Carnations  and  Pinks 
will  need  frequent  waterings  at  the  roots,  and  the  branches 
should  be  tied  neatly  to  rods. 

Such  flowering  shrubs  as  may  have  been  planted  late  in  the 
spring  season,  should  be  regularly  watered  in  dry  weather. 
Give  frequent  waterings  to  the  flower-beds,  in  general;  cut 
down  dead  flower-stalks ;  remove  decayed  plants,  and  care- 
fully replace  them  with  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery-bed. 


CAMELLIAS,  OR  JAPAN  ROSES. 

Camellias,  or  Japan  Roses.  There  are  numerous  varieties 
of  this  valuable  class  of  plants,  exhibiting  every  shade  of  color, 
from  deep  crimson  to  the  purest  white ;  in  some  imperceptibly 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  119 

blended,  in  others  strikingly  contrasted.  They  are  unrivalled 
objects  of  beauty  from  October  to  May,  being  set  in  a  fine 
glossy  foliage. 

Double  Camellias  are  generally  propagated  on  stocks  of  the 
single,  which  are  procured  by  planting  cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots  in  light  mould  under  bell-glasses ;  on  these,  when  grown 
to  a  sufficient  size,  are  inarched  the  finer  kinds  of  double. 
Sometimes  these  latter  are  also  struck  by  cuttings;  but  as 
their  progress  by  such  method  is  generally  slow  and  uncertain, 
it  is  seldom  resorted  to.  These  valuable  plants  are  too  often 
injured  by  amateurs,  from  misapplied  care  bestowed  upon 
them,  so  that  their  whole  compensation  and  enjoyment  are 
reduced  to  the  mere  possession  of  a  handsome  green  shrub. 
Destined,  from  the  extreme  beauty  and  unrivalled  delicacy  of 
their  flowers,  to  become  the  chief  pride  and  ornament  of  the 
green-house  and  drawing-room  in  the  winter  season,  Camellias 
should  have  a  fair  chance  given  them  to  exhibit  their  fine 
bloom  in  perfection. 

It  should  be  observed,  that  Camellias  are  by  no  means  ten- 
der shrubs,  but  require  to  be  kept  in  a  medium,  even  tempera- 
ture, and  they  generally  succeed  best  in  a  green-house,  where 
the  atmosphere  is  damp.  As  the  buds  begin  to  swell,  they 
will  require  more  water  than  at  any  other  time,  which  may  be 
applied  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  or  syringe,  while  in 
bud,  but  when  in  blossom  it  should  be  applied  to  the  earth. 

If  Camellias  be  kept  where  there  is  dry  air  occasioned  from 
fire-heat,  they  must  have  plenty  of  the  natural  air  at  all  oppor- 
tunities, or  the  buds  will  become  brown  and  fall  oft';  and  if 
they  are  exposed  to  extreme  cold  at  night,  which  is  too  often 
the  case  when  kept  in  rooms  of  an  uneven  temperature,  pre- 
mature decay  of  the  buds  will  inevitably  be  the  consequence. 

To  preserve  Camellias  in  a  healthy  condition,  they  should 
be  kept  in  a  fresh,  moderately  light  soil,  consisting  of  sandy 
loam  taken  from  under  grass-sods,  and  leaf-mould  well  mixed ; 
nothing  being  more  injurious  to  them  than  overpotting,  they 
should  not  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  until  the  projection  of 


120  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

their  roots  shows  evidently  that  they  are  in  need  of  it.  Few 
plants  bear  privation  of  sunshine  in  summer  better  than  these  ; 
they  should,  however,  be  kept  in  an  open  situation,  where  they 
can  have  a  full  share  of  light  and  air. 

Such  bulbous  roots  as  may  be  in  progress  of  blooming,  will 
require  attention  in  due  time ;  turn  them  frequently  to  the 
light,  as  recommended  on  page  95,  and  increase  the  supplies 
of  water  as  they  advance  towards  perfection. 

Attend  to  Campanula  Pyramidalis,  ffepaticas,  Mimulus,  Se- 
necios,  and  herbaceous  plants  in  general ;  those  not  in  bud  should 
be  watered  very  sparingly.  Shrubby  plants,  especially  those 
which  bud  and  blossom  in  winter,  and  the  early  part  of  spring, 
as  the  several  varieties  of  the  Acacias,  Azaleas,  Calceolarias, 
Correas,  Coronillas,  Daphnes,  Diosmas,  Eupatoriums,  Eutaxias, 
Fuchsias,  Gnidias,  Heaths,  Laurustimises,  Lemon  trees,  Rhodo- 
dendrons, Orange  trees,  etc.,  will  require  water  once  or  twice 
a  week,  according  to  circumstances,  and  air  should  be  given 
at  all  opportunities,  or  the  plants  will  not  blossom  in  per- 
fection. 

For  the  benefit  of  such  as  may  wish  to  raise  early  plants 
from  seed,  or  to  force  Dahlia  or  other  roots,  I  subjoin  the 
following  brief  directions  for  making  a  small  hot-bed:  In  a 
border  exposed  to  the  morning  sun,  let  a  pit  be  dug  about 
thirty  inches  deep,  five  feet  wide,  and  six  long;  this  will  admit 
of  two  sashes,  each  three  feet  by  five.  A  frame  of  suitable 
dimensions  may  be  made  of  plank ;  the  back  plank  may  be 
two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  sloped  so  as  to  make  fifteen- 
inch  plank  do  for  the  front.  The  frame  being  made,  set  it 
over  the  pit,  and  then  get  a  load  of  horse-dung,  fresh  from 
the  livery  stables,  (not  such  as  has  lain  long,  or  may  have  been 
soddened  with  water,)  spread  it  evenly  in  the  pit  until  full, 
then  put  into  the  frame  rich  light  mould,  or  compost,  to  the 
depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches,  and  the  seed  may  be  sown  as 
soon  as  it  gets  warm.  It  may  be  necessary  to  observe,  that 
in  making  hot-beds,  the  quantity  of  top  mould  should  be  regu- 
lated according  to  the  substance  of  the  manure  in  the  pit,  and 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  121 

this  may  vary  according  to  .the  use  the  beds  are  intended  for, 
or  to  other  circumstances.  After  the  seeds  are  sown,  the  beds 
will  require  constant  attention ;  cover  up  warm  in  cold  nights, 
and  give  air  at  all  opportunities,  to  prevent  the  plants  from 
growing  weak. 


MANAGEMENT  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN- 
WARM  WEATHER. 


"  The  '  Yellow  Crocus'  in  her  simple  dress, 
And  the  '•palefrimrosef  chaste  in  loveliness, 
Though  the  fierce  Storm  King  rides  upon  the  gale, 
Foretell  of  Spring,  'midst  snow  and  cutting  hail." 


As  the  spring  progresses,  the  external  air  will  be  soft  and 
salubrious ;  at  which  time  it  should  be  freely  admitted  to  plants 
kept  in  rooms  and  green-houses.  In  proportion  as  the  plants 
get  air,  they  should  have  water  applied  from  the  rose  of  a 
watering-pot. 

Monthly  Roses  will  require  attention  this  month.  It  should 
be  recollected,  that  it  is  from  the  young  wood  of  these  plants 
that  buds  are  to  be  expected  ;  their  growth  should,  therefore, 
be  encouraged,  by  admitting  sun  and  air  at  all  opportunities, 
and  water  when  necessary. 

Primulas.  There  are  several  species  of  plants  under  this 
name,  which  exhibit  their  blossoms  in  March  and  April ;  some 
of  which  are  very  beautiful,  as  the  Polyanthus,  English  Spring 
Flowers,  Auricula,  etc. ;  but  I  would  now  direct  the  reader's 
attention  to  the  Chinese  varieties,  some  of  which  are  pure  white, 
and  others  of  a  lilac  color.  They  are  first  raised  from  seed 
sown  in  the  spring,  and  will  keep  two  or  three  years. 

Plants  that  are  full  grown,  will  commence  blooming  in 
December,  and  continue  to  produce  umbels  of  flowers  for  five 

6 


122  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

or  six  months,  if  well  attended  to ;  they  are  generally  in  their 
prime  this  month,  at  which  time  a  little  water  should  be  applied 
to  the  earth  about  twice  a  week. 

Many  species  and  varieties  of  seed  may  be  sown  in  hot-beds" 
prepared  as  previously  directed. 

Auricula,  Polyanthus,  and  all  other  species  of  Primula  seed, 
should  now  be  sown.  Mignonette,  Ten  Week  Stock,  and  Dahlia 
seed,  from  choice  varieties,  may  also  be  sown  in  pots,  and  care 
should  be  taken,  when  the  plants  are  up,  that  they  be  not  in- 
jured by  excess  of  moisture. 

There  are  some  splendid  varieties  of  the  Schizanthus  which 
deserve  attention  at  an  early  season.  They  are  rather  difficult 
of  cultivation  in  pots,  being  apt  to  suffer  by  excess  of  heat  or 
moisture ;  and  often,  when  in  full  bloom,  die  off  suddenly  by 
decays  at  the  bottom  of  the  stem.  No  plants  will,  however, 
more  amply  repay  all  the  care  and  trouble  that  may  be  bestowed 
on  them,  than  those  of  the  elegant  genus  Schizanthus.  The 
best  soil  for  them  is  loam  and  leaf-mould,  with  a  small  portion 
of  sand.  They  should  be  repotted  as  often  as  the  pots  are  filled 
with  roots,  till  they  come  into  full  flower. 

All  the  different  varieties  of  tender  annual,  biennial,  and 
perennial  flower  seed,  designated  thus  §  and  thus  f  in  our 
Catalogues,  pages  99  and  118,  may  be  sown  early  in  hot-beds, 
or  in  pots  kept  in  the  green-house. 

Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  and  other  bulbs  in  glasses,  must  have 
the  water  shifted  every  week,  and  the  glasses  should  be 
thoroughly  washed  every  two  or  three  weeks. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  roots  of  Amaryllis  formosis- 
sima,  Gladiolus  psittacinna,  Tiger  Flower,  Tuberose,  and  such 
other  bulbs  as  may  have  been  preserved  dry  through  the  winter, 
may  now  be  planted  in  pots  and  kept  in  a  green-house  or  light 
room,  or  else  plunged  in  a  hot-bed.  Those  who  have  no  such 
conveniences  may,  however,  delay  the  planting  of  sound  bulbs, 
until  the  weather  will  admit  of  their  being  planted  in  warm 
borders  in  the  spring  of  the  year. 

Dahlia  roots  should  be  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,. to  forward 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  123 

tlicm,  with  a  view  to  their  being  separated  as  soon  as  the  eyes 
are  discernible. 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be  on 
the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects.  Burn 
tobacco  leaves  in  the  green-house,  so  as  to  fumigate  the  plants 
well,  before  they  are  removed  into  the  open  garden ;  and  such 
plants  as  may  show  any  indications  of  being  infested  with  the 
eggs  of  insects,  should  be  sponged  with  soap-suds,  and  after- 
wards well  syringed  and  watered.  Frequent  sprinkling  from 
the  rose  of  a  watering-pot  will  prevent  insects  from  accumulat- 
ing ;  especially  if  the  water  be  impregnated  with  tobacco,  by  a 
bag  of  the  leaves  being  steeped  therein  a  few  hours  previous  to 
using  it. 

Choice  Geraniums  will  need  timely  attention  in  order 
that  they  may  exhibit  their  flowers  to  advantage.  When  in 
full  bloom,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  wet  the  foliage  or 
flowers;  but  this  may  be  done  freely  before  the  buds  are 
expanded. 


TIME  TO  TRANSPLANT  GREEN-HOUSE  FLOWERS. 

Green-house  plants  may  be  set  out  early  in  the  growing 
season,  and  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  weather,  in  order  that 
they  may  be  prepared  gradually  for  the  shining  of  the  sun 
upon  them.  A  situation  exposed  to  the  sun  for  only  one-half 
the  day  is  preferable  for  most  plants,  especially  if  they  can  be 
shaded  at  noon. 

Many  plants,  such  as  Coronillas,  Heaths,  Aucubas,  Myrtles, 
Oleanders,  and  several  other  sorts,  are  subject  to  be  infested 
with  white  and  brown  scaly  insects ;  if  these  cannot  be  effect- 
ually taken  from  the  plants  by  washing  and  sponging,  let  the 
plants  be  headed  down  early  in  the  month  of  May,  and  if  they 


124  FLOWER- GARDENING. 

are  well  attended  to,  new  branches  will  shoot  out  on  the  old 
stem. 

Such  Orange  trees  as  were  budded  last  July  or  August, 
should  be  headed  down  early  in  the  spring.  Auriculas, 
Polyanthus,  and  Daisies,  should  be  separated  into  single  tufts, 
and  planted  in  a  shady  border  for  increase,  as  soon  as  they 
have  done  blossoming.  Such  Carnations  as  may  have  been 
wintered  in  frames  should  now  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  in 
the  flower-borders.  Tulips,  which  will  be  in  full  perfection  in 
the  fore  part  of  the  season,  will  require  constant  attention. 
Such  green-house  plants  as  may  have  done  blossoming  may  be 
pruned  carefully,  and  if  the  cuttings  be  planted  at  this  time 
they  will  strike  freely.  Cuttings  of  Salvia  splendens  and  ful~ 
gens  will  produce  strong  plants  for  blossoming  in  August,  if 
planted  early  in  the  season.  Chrysanthemum  cuttings  should 
now  be  put  down,  and  the  suckers  divided,  and  planted  singly 
in  borders,  or  in  pots,  for  flowering  in  the  autumn. 

Those  who  may  have  a  number  of  plants  in  various  sized 
pots,  should  provide  a  few  new  pots  a  size  larger  than  the 
largest  in  use ;  the  largest  plants  being  shifted  into  the  new 
pots,  leaves  the  next  sized  pots  for  the  second  sized  plants, 
and  by  pursuing  this  plan  of  shifting  until  the  whole  are  done, 
the  smallest  pots  will  be  left  for  such  plants  as  have  been  pro- 
pagated in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

The  shifting  of  plants  requires  considerable  attention  and 
judgment,  as  some  plants,  if  kept  in  too  large  pots,  will  sus- 
tain considerable  injury ;  therefore,  in  such  cases,  where  the 
fibrous  roots  have  not  spread  around  the  pot,  nothing  more  is 
necessary  than  to  rub  off  a  little  of  the  outside  mould,  and  then 
to  substitute  fresh  compost  for  the  roots  to  run  in. 

Such  plants  as  may  have  become  pot-bound,  and  whose 
roots  are  matted  around  the  pot,  will,  in  many  cases,  bear 
reducing.  If  the  matted  roots  are  carefully  pared  off,  and  the 
plants  shifted  into  good  fresh  compost,  they  will  soon  take 
root,  and  grow  freely ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  prune  off  all 
surplus  branches  of  the  plants  previous  to  repotting  them, 


f'i,OWEK-UARDENING. 


and  to  shade  them  for  a  week  or  ten  days.  Pieces  of  tile,  or 
broken  pots,  should  be  laid  over  the  aperture  at  the  bottom  of 
the  pots,  to  enable  the  surplus  moisture  to  drain  off,  or  the 
roots  will  sustain  injury. 


126  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  II. 

AN    OUTLINE    OF    THE    PRINCIPLES   OF   HORTI- 
CULTURE. 

BY  JOHN  LINDLEY,  F.R.S., 

Professor  of  Botany  in  the  University  of  London,  and  Associate  Secretary  of  the 
Horticultural  Society. 


I.  GENERAL  NATURE  OF  PLANTS. 

1.  HORTICULTURE  is  the  application  of  the  arts  of  cultivation, 
multiplication,  and  domestication  to  the  vegetable  kingdom. 
Horticulture  and  Arboriculture  are  branches  of  Agriculture. 

2.  The  vegetable   kingdom   is  composed  of  living  beings, 
destitute  of  sensation,  with  no  power  of  moving  spontaneously 
from  place  to  place,  and  called  plants. 

3.  Plants  aje  organized  bodies,  consisting  of  masses  of  tissue, 
which  is  permeable  by  fluids  or  gaseous  matter. 

4.  Vegetable  tissue  consists  either  of  minute  bladders,  or 
tubes  adhering  by  their  contiguous  surfaces,  and  leaving  inter- 
mediate passages  where  they  do  not  touch. 

5.  Tissue  is  called  Cellular  when  it  is  composed  of  minute 
bladders,  which  either  approach  the  figure  of  a  sphere,  or  are 
obviously  some  modification  of  it,  supposed  to  be  caused  by 
extension  or  lateral  compression. 

6.  When  newly  formed  it  is  in  a  very  lax  state,  and  possesses 
great  powers  of  absorption,  probably  on  account  of  the  exces- 
sive permeability  of  its  membrane,  and  the  imperfect  cohesion 
of  its  cells. 

7.  Cellular  tissue,  otherwise  called  Parenchyma,  constitutes 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  127 

the  soft  and  brittle"  parts  of  plants,  such  as  pith,  pulp,  the 
spaces  between  the  veins  of  leaves,  and  the  principal  part  of 
the  petals. 

8.  Succulent  plants  are  such  as  have  an  excessive  develop- 
ment of  cellular  tissue. 

9.  It  may  be  considered  the  most  essential  kind  of  tissue, 
because,  while  no  plants  exist  without  it,  many  are  composed 
of  nothing  else. 

10.  Tissue  is  called   Woody  Fibre  when  it  is  composed  of 
slender  tubes,  which  are  conical  and  closed  at  each  end,  and 
placed  side  by  side. 

11.  Woody  fibre  is  what  causes  stiffness  and  tenacity  in 
certain  parts  of  plants  ;  hence  it  is  found  in  the  veins  of  leaves, 
and  in  bark,  and  it  constitutes  the  principal  part  of  the  wood. 

12.  Vascular  Tissue  is  that  in  which  either  an  elastic  tough 
thread  is  generated  spirally  within  a  tube  that  is  closed  and 
conical  at  each  end ;  or  rows  of  cylindrical  cellules,  placed  end 
to  end,  finally  become  continuous  tubes  by  the  loss  of  their 
ends. 

13.  The   most  remarkable  form  of  vascular  tissue   is  the 
Spiral  Vessel,  which  has  the  power  of  rolling  with  elasticity 
when  stretched. 

14.  Other  kinds  of  vascular  tissue  are  incapable  of  unrolling, 
but  break  when  stretched. 

15.  Spiral  vessels  are  not  found  in  the  wood  or  bark,  and 
rarely  in  the  roots  of  plants. 

16.  Vascular  tissue  of  other  kinds  is  confined  to  the  root, 
stem,  veins  of  leaves,  petals,  and  other  parts  composed  of  leaves. 
It  is  not  found  in  bark. 

17.  The  common  office  of  the  tissue  is  to  convey  fluid  or 
air,  and  to  act  as  the  receptacle  of  secretions. 

18.  Cellular  tissue  conveys  fluids  in  all  directions,  absorbs 
with  great  rapidity,  is  the  first  cause  of  the  adhesions  that 
take   place   between   contiguous   parts,  and   is  the   principal 
receptacle  of  secreted  matter. 

19.  Adhesion  will  take  place  at  all  times  during  the  growing 


128  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

season,  when  the  cellular  tissues  of  two  "different  parts,  or  of 
two  different  plants,  are  kept  for  some  time  in  contact ;  but  as 
none  but  tissues  of  nearly  the  same  nature  will  adhere,  grafting 
and  budding,  which  are  caused  by  the  adhesion  of  contiguous 
parts,  can  only  take  place  either  between  different  varieties  of 
the  same  species,  or  between  nearly  related  species ;  and  even 
then  only  when  the  corresponding  parts  of  the  scion  or  bud 
and  the  stock  are  placed  in  contact. 

20.  Woody  fibre  conveys  fluid  in  the  direction  of  its  length, 
gives  stiffness  and  flexibility  to  the  general  system,  and  acts  as 
a  protection  to  spiral  and  other  delicate  vessels. 

21.  Spiral  vessels  convey  oxygenated  air. 

22.  Other  vessels  probably  conduct  fluid  when  young,  and 
air  when  old. 

23.  As  the  bodies  of  which  all  tissue  is  composed  are  per- 
fectly simple,  unbranched,  and  regular  in  figure,  having,  when 
elongated,  their  two  extremities  exactly  alike,  they  are  more  or 
less  capable  of  conVeying  gaseous  matter  or  fluids  in  any  direc- 
tion, and,  consequently,  a  current  may  be  reversed  in  them 
without  inconvenience ;  hence  inverted  cuttings  or  stems  will 
grow. 

[If  cuttings  will  grow  when  the  top  ends  are  stuck  in  the 
ground,  I  have  never  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them.  I 
have  often  heard  that  sprouts  of  trees  and  bushes  will  grow 
with  the  top  end  down,  but  I  have  never  met  with  a  person 
who  has  seen  such  a  thing. — S.  EDWARDS  TODD.] 

24.  All  parts  of  plants  are  composed  of  tissue,  whether  they 
be  soft,  as  pulp,  or  hard,  as  the  bony  lining  of  a  peach. 

25.  With  regard  to  Horticultural  operations,  the  parts  of 
plants  should  be  considered  under  the  heads  of  Root  (II.) ; 
Stem  (III.) ;  Leaf  Buds  (IV.) ;  Leaves  (V.) ;  Flowers  (VI.) , 
Sexes  (VII.) ;  Fruit  (VIII.) ;  and  Seed  (IX.). 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  129 


II.    ROOT. 


26.  The  Root  is  the  part  that  strikes  into  the  earth  when  a 
seed  begins  to  germinate,  and  which  afterwards  continues  to 
lengthen  beneath  the  soil. 

27.  It  is  also  the  part  which  is  sometimes  emitted  by  the 
stem,  for  the  purpose  of  absorbing  nutriment  from  the  atmo- 
sphere ;  as  in  Ivy,  Air-plants,  Vines,  etc. 

28.  It  is  distinguished  from  the  stem  by  the  absence  of 
leaves  in  any  state  ;  of  regular  leaf-buds  (IV.) ;  of  evaporating 
pores  or  stomata  (131) ;  and  of  pith  in  Exogenous  plants. 

29.  Therefore,  such   underground   bodies   as   those    called 
Tuber  (61)  in  the  Potato,  Bulb  (96)  in  the  Onion,  and  solid 
Bulb  or  Cormus  (61)  in  the  Crocus,  are  not  roots. 

30.  The  office  of  the  root  is  to  absorb  food  in  a  fluid  or 
gaseous  state  ;  and  also  to  fix  the  plant  in  the  soil,  or  to  some 
firm  support. 

31.  The  latter  office  is  essential  to  the  certain  and  regular 
performance  of  the  former. 

32.  It  is  not  by  the  whole  of  their  surface  that  roots  absorb 
food  ;  but  only  by  their  young  and  newly  formed  extremities, 
called  Spongioles. 

33.  Hence  the  preservation  of  the  spongioles  in  an  uninjured 
state  is  essential  to  the  removal  of  a  plant  from  one  place  to 
another. 

34.  A  spongiole  consists  of  very  young  vascular  tissue  (12) 
surrounded  by  very  young  cellular  substance  (5). 

[Some  modern  botanists  discard  entirely  the  idea  that  there 
are  spongioles  on  the  ends  of  roots.  Dr.  Webster  says  that 
spongioles  are  supposed  expansions  of  minute  parts,  at  the  ter- 
mination of  radicles,  resembling  a  sponge,  for  absorbing  the 
nutriment  of  plants. — S.  EDWARDS  TODD.] 

35.  Spongioles  secrete  excrementitious  matter,  which  is  un- 
suitable to  the  same  species  afterwards  as  food ;  for  poisonous 

6* 


130  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

substances  are  as  fatal  to  the  species  that  secrete  them  as  to 
any  other  species. 

36.  Hence  whatever  is  known  to  produce  any  specific  dele- 
terious action  upon  leaves  or  stems,  such  as  certain  gases  (298) 
and  mineral  or  vegetable  poisons,  will  produce  a  much  more 
fatal  effect  upon  the  spongioles. 

37.  These  organs  have  no  power  of  selecting  their  food,  but 
will  absorb  whatever  the  earth  or  air  may  contain,  which  is 
sufficiently  fluid  to  pass  through  the  sides  of  their  tissue. 

38.  So  that  if  the  spongioles  are  developed  in  a  medium 
which  is  of  an  unsuitable  nature,  as  they  will  still  continue  to 
absorb,  they  cannot  fail  to  introduce  matter  which  will  prove 
either  injurious  or  fatal  to  life,  according  to  its  intensity. 

39.  This  may  often  explain  why  trees  suddenly  become  un- 
healthy, without  any  external  apparent  cause. 

40.  Plants  have  the  power  of  replacing  spongioles  by  the 
formation  of  new  ones ;  so  that  an  individual  is  not  destroyed 
by  their  loss. 

41.  But  this  power  depends  upon  the  cooperation  of  the 
atmosphere,  and  upon  the  special  vital  powers  of  the  species. 

42.  If  the  atmosphere  is  so  humid  as  to  hinder  evaporation, 
spongioles  will  have  time  to  form  anew ;  but  if  the  atmosphere 
is  dry,  the  loss  by  evaporation  will  be  so  much  greater  than 
can  be  supplied  by  the  injured  roots,  that  the  whole  system 
will  be  emptied  of  fluid  before  the  new  spongioles  can  form. 

43.  This  is  the  key  to  Transplantation. 

44.  As  roots  are  destitute  of  leaf-buds,  and  as  leaf-buds  are 
essential  to  the  multiplication  of  an  individual  (108),  it  should 
follow  that  roots  can  never  be  employed  for  the  purpose  of 
multiplication. 

45.  Nevertheless,  roots  when  woody  have,  occasionally,  the 
power  of  generating  adventitious  leaf-buds  (IV.) ;  and  when 
this  is  the  case,  they  may  be  employed  for  the  purpose  of  mul- 
tiplication ;  as  those  of  Cydonia  Japonica,  etc. 

46.  The  cause  of  this  power  existing  in  some  species,  and 
not  in  others,  is  unknown. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  131 

47.  It  is  therefore  a  power  that  can  never   be  calculated 
upon,  and  whose  existence  is  only  to  be  discovered  by  acci- 
dent. 

48.  Although  roots  are  generated  under  ground,  and  some- 
times at  considerable  depths,  yet  access  to  a  certain  quantity 
of  atmospheric  air  appears  indispensable  to  the  healthy  execu- 
tion of  their  functions.      This  is    constantly  exemplified  in 
plants  growing  in  the  earth  at  the  back  of  an  ill-ventilated 
forcing- house,  where  the  roots  have  no  means  of  finding  their 
way  into  the  earth  on  the  outside  of  the  house. 

49.  It  is  supposed  by  some  that  the  introduction  of  oxygen 
into  their  system  is  as  indispensable  to  them  as  to  animals. 

50.  If  seems  more  probable  that  the  oxygen  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, seizing  upon  a  certain  quantity  of  carbon,  forms  car- 
bonic acid,  which  they  absorb  and  feed  upon. 

51.  It  is  at  least  certain  that  the  exclusion  of  air  from  the 
roots  will  always  induce  an  unhealthy  condition,  or  even  death 
itself.    This  may  be  one  of  the  reasons  why  stiff  tenacious  soils 
are  seldom  suited  to  the  purposes  of  the  cultivator,  until  their 
adhesiveness  has  been  destroyed  by  the  addition  of  other  matter. 

52.  It  is  therefore  one  of  the  most  delicate  parts  of  plants, 
and  the  most  easily  injured. 

53.  But  to  the  other  species  the  excrementitious  matter  is 
either  not  unsuitable  or  not  deleterious. 

54.  Hence  soil  may  be  rendered  impure  (or,  as  we  inaccu- 
rately say,  worn  out)  for  one  species,  which  will  not  be  impure 
for  others. 

55.  This  is  the  true  key  of  the  theory  of  rotation  of  crops. 

56.  This  also  may  serve  to  explain  in  part  why  light  soil  is 
indispensable  to  many  plants,  and  heavy  or  tenacious  soil  suit- 
able to  so  few ;  for  in  the  former  case  the  spongioles  will  meet 
with  little  resistance  to  their  elongation,  and  will  consequently 
be  continually  leaving  the  place  where  their  excrementitious 
matter  is  deposited ;  while  in  the  latter  case,  the  reverse  will 
occur. 


132  FLOWER-GARDENING. 


III.  STEM. 

57.  The  Stem  is  that  part  of  a  plant  which  is  developed 
above  ground,  and  which  took  an  upward  direction  at  the 
period  of  germination. 

58.  In  consists  of  a  woody  axis,  covered  by  bark  having 
etomata  (131)  on  its  surface,  bearing  leaves  with  leaf-buds  in 
their  axilla3,  and  producing  flowers  and  fruit. 

59.  The  points  where  leaves  are  borne  are  called  Nodi ;  the 
spaces  between  the  leaves  are  Internodia. 

60.  The  more  erect  a  stem  grows,  the  more  vigorous  it  is ; 
and  the  more  it  deviates  from  this  direction  to  a  horizontal  or 
pendulous  position,  the  less  is  it  vigorous. 

61.  Some  stems  are  developed  under  ground,  such  as  the 
Tubers  of  the  Potato  and  the  Cormus  of  the  Crocus ;  but  they 
are  known  from  roots  by  the  presence  of  leaves,  and  regular 
leaf-buds,  upon  their  surface. 

62.  Stems  increase  in  diameter  in  two  ways. 

63.  Either  by  the  addition  of  new  matter  to  the  outside  of 
the  wood  and  the  inside  of  the  bark ;  when  they  are  Exoge- 
nous ;  ex.  Oak. 

64.  Or  by  the  addition  of  new  matter  to  their  inside ;  when 
they  are  Endogenous  ;  ex.  Cane. 

65.  In  Exogenous  stems,  the  central  portion,  which  is  harder 
and  darker  than  that  at  the  circumference,  is  called  Heart 
Wood  ;  while  the  exterior,  which  is  softer  and  lighter,  is  called 
Alburnum,  or  Sap  Wood. 

66.  The  inside  of  the  bark  of  such  stems  has  also  the  tech- 
nical name  of  Liber. 

67.  The  heart  wood  was,  when  young,  Alburnum,  and  after- 
wards changed  its  nature  by  becoming  the  receptacle  of  certain 
secretions  peculiar  to  the  species. 

68.  Hence  the  greater  durability  of  heart  wood  than  of  sap 
wood.     While  the  latter  is  newly  formed  empty  tissue,  almost 
as  perishable  as  bark  itself,  the  former  is  protected  against 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  133 

destruction  by  the  introduction  of  secretions  that  become  solid 
matter,  which  is  often  insoluble  in  water,  and  never  permeable 
to  air. 

69.  The  secretions  by  which  heart  wood  is  solidified  are  pre- 
pared in  the  leaves,  whence  they  are  sent  downwards  through 
the  bark,  and  from  the  bark  communicated  to  the  central  part 
of  the  stem. 

70.  The  channels  through  which  this  communication  takes 
place  are  called  Medullary  Rays,  or  Silver  Grain. 

71.  Medullary  rays  are  plates  of  cellular  tissue,  in  a  very 
compressed  state,  passing  from  the  pith  into  the  bark. 

72.  The  wood  itself  is   composed  of   tubes  consisting  of 
woody  fibre  and  vascular  tissue,  imbedded  longitudinally  in 
cellular  substance. 

73.  This  cellular  substance  only  develops  horizontally ;    and 
it  is  to  it  that  the  peculiar  character  of  different  kinds  of  wood 
is  chiefly  due. 

74.  For  this  reason  the  wood  of  the  stock  of  a  grafted  plant 
will  never  become  like  that  of  its  scion,  although,  as  will  be 
hereafter  seen  (IV.),  the  woody  matter  of  the  stock  must  all 
originate  in  the  scion. 

75.  The  stem  of  an  exogenous  plant  may  therefore  be  com- 
pared to  a  piece  of  linen,  of  which  the  weft  is  composed  of 
cellular  tissue,  and  the  warp  of  fibrous  and  vascular  tissue. 

76.  In  the  spring  and  autumn  a  viscid  substance  is  secreted 
between  the  wood  and  the  liber,  called  the  Cambium. 

77.  This  cambium  appears  to  be  the  matter  out  of  which 
the  cellular  horizontal  substance  of  the  stem  is  organized. 

78.  In  Endogenous  stems  the  portion  at  the  circumference 
is  harder  than  that  in  the  centre ;  and  there  is  no  separable 
bark. 

79.  Their  stems  consist  of  bundles  of  woody  matter,  imbed- 
ded in  cellular  tissue,  and  composed  of  vascular  tissue  sur- 
rounded by  woody  fibre. 

80.  The  stem  is  not  only  the  depository  of  the  peculiar 
secretions   of  species  (67),  but  is   also  the  medium  through 


1 34  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

which   the  sap  flows  in  its  passage  from  the  roots  into  the 
leaves. 

81.  In  exogenous  stems  (63)  it  certainly  rises  through  the 
alburnum,  and  descends  through  the  bark. 

82.  In  endogenous  stems  (64)  it  probably  rises  through  the 
bundles  of  wood,  and  descends  through  the  cellular  substance ; 
but  this  is  uncertain. 

83.  Stems  have  the  power  of  propagating  an  individual  only 
by  means  of  their  LEAF-BUDS.     If  destitute  of  leaf-buds,  they 
have  no  power  of  multiplication,  except  fortuitously. 

IV.  LEAF-BUDS. 

84.  Leaf-buds  are  rudiments  of  branches,  inclosed  within 
scales,  which  are  imperfectly  formed  leaves.    • 

85.  All  the  leaf-buds  upon  the  same  branch  are  constitution- 
ally and  anatomically  the  same. 

86.  They  are  of  two  kinds ;  namely,  regular  or  normal,  and 
adventitious  or  latent  (119). 

87.  Eegular  leaf-buds  are  formed  at  the  axillae  of  leaves. 

88.  They  are  organs  capable  of  propagating  the  individual 
from  which  they  originate. 

89.  They  are  at  first  nourished  by  the  fluid  lying  in  the 
pith,  but  finally  establish  for  themselves  a  communication  with 
the  soil  by  the  woody  matter  which  they  send  downward. 

90.  Their  force  of  development  will  be  in  proportion  to  their 
nourishment ;  and,  consequently,  when  it  is  wished  to  procure 
a  young  shoot  of  unusual  vigor,  all  other  shoots  in  the  vicinity 
are  prevented  growing,  so  as  to  accumulate  for  one  shoot  only 
all  the  food  that  would  otherwise  have  been   consumed  by 
several. 

91.  Cutting  back  to  a  few  eyes  is  an  operation  in  pruning  to 
produce  the  same  effect,  by  directing  the  sap,  as  it  ascends,  into 
two  or  three  buds  only,  instead  of  allowing  it  to  expend  itself 
upon  all  the  others  which  are  cut  away. 

92.  When  leaf-buds  grow,  they  develop  in  three  directions ; 


FLOWER-OARDENING.  "135 

the    one  horizontal,  the  other  upwards,  and  the  third  down 
wards. 

93.  The  horizontal  development  is  confined  to  the  cellular 
system  of  the  bark,  pith,  and  medullary  rays. 

94.  The  upward  and  downward  developments  are  confined 
to  the  woody  fibre  and  vascular  tissue. 

95.  In  this  respect  they  resemble  seed ;  from  which  they 
differ  physiologically  in  propagating  the  individual,  while  seed 
can  only  propagate  the  species. 

96.  When  they  disarticulate  from  the  stem  that  bears  them, 
they  are  called  Buds. 

97.  In  some  plants,  a  bud,  when  separated  from  its  stem, 
will  grow  and  form  a  new  plant  if  placed  in  circumstances  favor- 
able to  the  preservation  of  its  vital  powers. 

98.  But  this  property  seems  confined  to  plants  having  a  firm, 
woody,  perennial  stem. 

99.  Such  buds,  when  detached  from  their  parent  stem,  send 
roots  downwards  and  a  stem  upwards. 

100.  But  if  the  buds  are  not  separated  from  the  plant  to 
which  they  belong,  the  matter  they  send  downwards  becomes 
wood  and  liber  (66),  and  the  stems  they  send  upwards  become 
branches.     Hence  it  is  said  that  wood  and  liber  are  formed  by 
the  roots  of  leaf-buds. 

101.  If  no  leaf-buds  are  called  into  action,  there  will  be  no 
addition  of  wood;  and,  consequently,  the  destruction  or  ab- 
sence of  leaf-buds  is  accompanied  by  the  absence  of  wood ;  as 
is  proved  by  a  shoot,  the  upper  buds  of  which  are  destroyed 
and  the  lower   allowed  to  develop.     The   lower  part  of  the 
shoot  will  increase  in  diameter ;  the  upper  will  remain  of  its 
original  dimensions. 

102.  The  quantity  of  wood,  therefore,   depends  upon  the 
quantity  of  leaf-buds  that  develop. 

103.  It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  bear  this  in  mind  in 
pruning  timber  trees ;  for  excessive  pruning  must  necessarily 
be  injurious  to  the  quantity  of  produce. 

104.  If  a  cutting  with  a  leaf-bud  on  it  be  placed  in  circum- 


136-  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

stances  fitted  to  the  development  of  the  latter,  it  will  grow 
and  become  a  new  plant. 

105.  If  this  happens  when  the  cutting  is  inserted  in  the 
earth,  the  new  plant  is  said  by  gardeners  to  be  upon  its  own 
bottom. 

106.  But  if  it  happens  when  the  cutting  is  applied  to  the 
dissevered  end  of  another  individual,  called  a  stock,  the  roots 
are  insinuated  into  the  tissue  of  the  stock,  and  a  plant  is  said 
to  be  grafted,  the  cutting  being  called  a  scion. 

107.  There  is,  therefore,  little  difference  between  cuttings 
and  scions,  except  that  the  former  root  into  the  earth,  the 
latter  into  another  plant. 

108.  But  if  a  cutting  of  the  same  plant  without  a  leaf-bud 
upon  it  be  placed  in  the  same  circumstances,  it  will  not  grow, 
but  will  die. 

109.  Unless  its  vital  powers  are  sufficient  to  enable  it  to 
develop  an  adventitious  leaf-bud  (119). 

110.  A  leaf-bud  separated  from  the  stem  will  also  become  a 
new  individual,  if  its  vital  energy  is  sufficiently  powerful. 

111.  And  this  whether  it  is  planted  in  earth,  into  which 
it  roots  like  a  cutting,  or  in  a  new  individual,  to  which  it 
adheres  and  grows  like  a  scion.     In  the   former   case  it  is 
called  an  eye,  in  the  latter  a  bud. 

112.  Every  leaf-bud  has,  therefore,  its  own  distinct  system 
of  life  and  of  growth. 

113.  And  as  all  the  leaf-buds  of  an  individual  are  exactly 
alike,  it  follows  that  a  plant  is  a  collection  of  a  great  number 
of  distinct  identical  systems  of  life,  and,  consequently,  a  com- 
pound individual. 

114.  Regular  leaf-buds  being  generated  in  the  axillae  of  the 
leaves,  it  is  there  that  they  are  always  to  be  sought. 

115.  And  if  they  cannot  be  discovered  by  ocular  inspection, 
it  may  nevertheless  be  always  inferred  with  confidence  that 
they  exist  in  such  situations,  and  may  possibly  be  called  from 
their  dormant  state  into  life. 

116.  Hence,  wherever  the  scar  of  a  leaf,  or  the  remains  of  a 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  137 

leaf,  can  be  discovered,  there  it  is  to  be  understood  that  the 
rudiments  exist  of  a  system  of  life  which  may  be,  by  favorable 
circumstances,  called  into  action. 

117.  Hence,  all  parts  upon  which  leaves  have  ever  grown 
may  be  made  use  of  for  purposes  of  propagation. 

118.  From  these  considerations  it  appears  that  the  most 
direct  analogy  between  the  Animal  and  Vegetable  kingdoms 
is  with  the  Polypi  of  the  former. 

119.  Adventitious  leaf-buds  are  in  all  respects  like  regular 
leaf-buds,  except  that  they  are  not  formed  at  the  axillae  of  leaves, 
but  develop  occasionally  from  all  and  any  part  of  a  plant. 

120.  They  are  occasionally  produced  by  roots,  by  solid  wood, 
or  even  by  leaves  and  flowers. 

121.  Hence  roots,  solid  wood,  or  even  leaves  and  flowers,  may 
be  used  as  means  of  propagation. 

122.  But  as  the  development  of  adventitious  buds  is  ex- 
tremely uncertain,  such  means  of  propagation  can  never  be  cal- 
culated on,  and  form  no  part  of  the  science  of  cultivation. 

123.  The  cause  of  the  formation  of  adventitious  leaf-buds  is 
unknown. 

124.  From  certain  experiments  it  appears  that  they  may  be 
generated  by  sap  in  a  state  of  great  accumulation  and  activity. 

125.  Consequently,  whatever  tends  to  the  accumulation  of 
sap  in  an  active  state  may  be  expected  to  be  conducive  to  the 
formation  of  adventitious  leaf-buds. 

Y.  LEAVES. 

126.  Leaves  are  expansions  of  bark,  traversed  by  veins. 

127.  The  veins  consist  of  spiral  vessels  inclosed  in  woody 
fibre ;  they  originate  in  the  medullary  sheath  and  liber ;  and 
they  are  connected  by  loose  parenchyma  (7),  which  is  full  of 
cavities  containing  air. 

128.  This  parenchyma  consists  of  two  layers,  of  which  the 
upper  is  composed  of  cellules  perpendicular  to  the  cuticle,  and 
the  lower  of  cellules  parallel  with  the  cuticle. 


138  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

129.  These  cellules  are  arranged  so  as  to  leave  numerous 
open  passages  among  them  for  the  circulation  of  air  in  the  inside 
of  a  leaf.     Parenchyma  of  this  nature  is  called  cavernous. 

130.  Cuticle  is  formed  of  one  or  more  layers  of  depressed 
cellular  tissue,  which  is  generally  hardened,  and  always  dry  and 
filled  with  air. 

131.  Between  many  of  the  cells  of  the  cuticle  are  placed 
apertures,  called  stomata,  which  have  the  power  of  opening  and 
closing  as  circumstances  may  require. 

132.  It  is  by  means  of  this  apparatus  that  leaves  elaborate 
the  sap  which  they  absorb  from  the  alburnum,  converting  it 
into  the  secretions  peculiar  to  the  species. 

133.  Their  cavernous  structure  (129)  enables  them  to  expose 
the  greatest  possible  surface  of  their  parenchyma  to  the  action 
of  the  atmosphere. 

134.  Their  cuticle  is  a  non-conducting  skin,  which  protects 
them  from  great  variations  in  temperature,  and  through  which 
gaseous  matter  will  pass  readily. 

135.  Their  stomata  are  pores  that  are  chiefly  intended  to 
facilitate  evaporation ;  for  which  they  are  well  adapted  by  a 
power  they  possess  of  opening  or  closing  as  circumstances  may 
require. 

136.  They  are  also  intended  for  facilitating  the  rapid  emission 
of  air,  when  it  is  necessary  that  such  a  function  should  be  per- 
formed. 

137.  The  functions  of  stomata  being  of  such  vital  importance, 
it  is  always  advisable  to  examine  them  microscopically  in  cases 
where  doubts  are  entertained  of  the  state  of  the  atmosphere 
which  a  particular  species  may  require. 

138.  Leaves  growing  in  air  are  covered  with  a  cuticle. 

139.  Leaves  growing  under  water  have  no  cuticle. 

140.  All  the  secretions  of  plants  being  formed  in  the  leaves, 
or  at  least  the  greater  part,  it  follows  that  secretions  cannot  take 
place,  if  leaves  are  destroyed. 

141.  And  as  this  secreting  property  depends  upon  specific 
vital  powers   connected  with  the  decomposition  of  carbonic 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  139 

acid,  and  called  into  action  only  when  the  leaves  are  freely 
exposed  to  light  and  air  (279),  it  also  follows  that  the  quan- 
tity of  secretion  will  be  in  direct  proportion  to  the  quantity  of 
leaves,  and  to  their  free  exposure  to  light  and  air. 

142.  The  usual  position  of  leaves  is  spiral,  at  regularly  in- 
creasing or  diminishing  distances ;  they  are  then  said  to  be 
alternate. 

143.  But  if  the  space,  or  the  axis,  that  separates  two  leaves 
is  reduced  to   nothing   at   alternate   intervals,  they  become 
opposite. 

144.  And  if  the  spaces  that  separate  several  leaves  be  re- 
duced to  nothing,  they  become  verticillate. 

145.  Opposite  and  verticillate  leaves,  therefore,  differ  from 
alternate  leaves  only  in  the  spaces  that  separate  them  being 
reduced  to  nothing. 


VI.  FLOWERS. 

146.  Flowers  consist  of  two  principal  parts,  namely,  Floral 
Envelopes  (149),  and  Sexes  (VII.). 

147.  Of  these,  the  former  constitute  what  is  popularly  con- 
sidered the  flower ;  although  the  latter  are  the  only  parts  that 
are  absolutely  essential  to  it. 

148.  However  different  they  may  be  in  appearance  from 
leaves,  they  are  all  formed  of  those  organs  in  a  more  or  less 
modified  state,  and  altered  in  greater  or  less  degree  by  mutual 
adhesion. 

149.  The  floral  envelopes  consist  of  two  or  more  whorls  of 
transformed  leaves ;  of  which  part  is  calyx,  its  leaves  being 
called  sepals,  and  part  corolla,  its  leaves  being  called  petals. 

150.  The  sexes  are  also  transformed  leaves  (187). 

151.  The  calyx  is  always  the  outermost,  the  corolla  is  always 
the  innermost  whorls ;  and  if  there  is  but  one  floral  envelope, 
that  one  is  calyx. 

152.  Usually  the  calyx  is  green,  and  the  corolla  colored  and 


140  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

more  highly  developed ;  but  the  reverse  is  frequently  the  case, 
as  in  Fuchsia,  Ribes  sanguineum,  etc.  • 

153.  A  flower  being,  then,  an  axis  surrounded  by  leaves,  it 
is  in  reality  a  stunted  branch;  that  is,  one  the  growth  of 
which  is  checked,  and  its  power  of  elongation  destroyed. 

154.  That  flowers  are  stunted  branches  is  proved,  first,  by 
all  their  parts,  especially  the  most  external,  occasionally  revert- 
ing to  the  state  of  ordinary  leaves ;  secondly,  by  their  parts 
being  often  transformed  into  each  other ;  and,  thirdly,  by  the 
whorls  of  flower-buds  being  dislocated  and  actually  converted 
into  branches  whenever  anything  occurs  to  stimulate   them 
excessively. 

155.  Their  most  essential  distinctive  character  consists  in 
the  buds  at  the  axillae  of  their  leaves  being  usually  dormant, 
while  those  in  the  axillae  of  ordinary  leaves  are  usually  active. 

156.  For  this  reason,  while  leaf-buds  can  be  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  propagation,  flower-buds  cannot  usually  be  so  employed. 

157.  Being  stunted  branches,  their  position  on  the  stem  is 
the  same  as  that  of  developed  branches. 

158.  And  as  there  is  in  all  plants  a  very  great  difference  in  the 
development  of  leaf-buds,  some  growing  readily  into  branches, 
others  only  unfolding  their   leaves  without   elongating,  and 
many  remaining  altogether  dormant,  it  follows  that  flower-buds 
may  form  upon  plants  of  whatever  age  and  in  whatever  state. 

159.  But  to  produce  a  general  formation  of  flower-buds  it  is 
necessary  that  there  should  be  some  general  predisposing  con- 
stitutional cause,  independent  of  accidental  circumstances. 

160.  This  predisposing  cause  is  the  accumulation  of  sap  and 
of  secreted  matter. 

161.  Therefore,  whatever  tends  to  retard  the  free  flow  of 
sap,  and  causes  it  to  accumulate,  will  cause  the  production  of 
flower-buds,  or  fertility. 

162.  And,  on  the  other  hand,  whatever  tends  to  produce 
excessive  vigor,  causes  the  dispersion   of  sap,  or  prevents  its 
elaboration,  and  causes  sterility. 

163.  Transplantation  with  a  partial  destruction  of  roots,  age, 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  141 

or  high  temperature  accompanied  by  a  dry  atmosphere,  training 
obliquely  or  in  an  inverted  direction,  a  constant  destruction  of 
the  extremities  of  young  growing  branches,  will  all  cause  an 
accumulation  of  sap,  and  secretions ;  and,  consequently,  all  such 
circumstances  are  favorable  to  the  production  of  flower- 
buds. 

164.  But   a  richly  manured   soil,   high  temperature,   with 
great  atmospheric  humidity,  or  an  uninterrupted  flow  of  sap, 
are  all  causes  "of  excessive  vigor,  and  are  consequently  unfavora- 
ble to  the  producing  of  flower-buds. 

165.  There  is  a  tendency  in  many  flowers  to  enlarge,  to  alter 
their  colors,  or  to  change  their  appearance  by  transformation 
and  multiplication  of  their  parts,  whenever  they  have  been 
raised  from  seed  for  several  generations,  or  domesticated. 

166.  The  causes  of  this  tendency  are  probably  various,  but, 
being  entirely  unknown,  no  certain  rules  for  the  production  of 
varieties  in  flowers  can  be  laid  down,  except  by  the  aid  of 
hybridizing  (201). 

167.  It  often  happens  that  a  single  branch  produces  flowers 
different  from  those   produced  on   other   branches.     This  is 
technically  called  a  sport. 

168.  As  every  bud  on  that  branch  has  the  same  specific  vital 
principle  (113),  a  bud  taken  from  such  a  branch  will  produce 
an  individual,  the  whole  of  whose  branches  will  retain  the 
character  of  the  sport. 

169.  Consequently  by  buds  an   accidental  variety  may  be 
made  permanent,  if  the  plant  that  sports  be  of  a  firm  woody 
nature  (98). 

170.  As  flowers  feed  upon  the  prepared  sap  in  their  vicinity, 
the  greater  the  abundance  of  this  prepared  food,  the  more 
perfect  will  be  their  development. 

171.  Or,  the  fewer  the  flowers  on  a  given  branch,  the  more 
food  they  will  severally  have  to  nourish  them,  and  the  more 
perfect  will  they  be. 

172.  The  beauty  of  flowers  will  therefore  be  increased  either 
by  an  abundant  supply  of  food,  or  by  a  diminution  of  their  num.- 


142  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

bers  (thinning),  or  by  both.     The  business  of  the  primer  is  to 
cause  these  by  his  operation. 

173.  The  beauty  of  flowers  depends  upon  their  free  exposure 
to  light  and  air,  because  it  consists  in  the  richness  of  their 
colors,  and  their  colors  are  only  formed  by  the  action  of  these 
two  agents  (281). 

174.  Hence  flowers  produced  in  dark  or  shaded  confined 
situations  are  either  imperfect  or  destitute  of  their  habitual 
size  and  beauty. 

175.  Double  flowers  are   those  in  which  the  stamens  are 
transformed  into  petals ;  or  in  which  the  latter,  or  the  sepals, 
are  multiplied.     They  should  not  be  confounded  with  Prolife- 
rous (183)  and  Discoid  Compound  Flowers  (184). 

176.  Although  no  certain  rules  for  the  production  of  double 
flowers  can  be  laid  down,  yet  it  is  probable  that  those  flowers 
have  the  greatest  tendency  to  become  double  in  which  the 
sexes  are  habitually  multiplied. 

177.  In   Icosandrous   and   Polyandrous   plants    either   the 
stamens  or  the  pistilla  are  always   very  numerous  when  the 
flowers  are  in  a  natural  state ;  and  it  is  chiefly  in  such  plants 
that  double  flowers  occur  when  they  become  transformed. 

178.  It  is  therefore  in  such  plants  that  double  flowers  are  to 
be  principally  expected. 

179.  In  proportion  as  the  sexes  of  flowers  habitually  become 
few  in  number,  do  the  instances  of  double  flowers  become  rare. 

180.  Double  flowers  are  therefore  least  to  be  expected  in 
plants  with  fewest  stamens. 

181.  "Whenever  the  component  parts  of  a  flower  adhere  by 
their  edges,  as  in  monophyllous  calyxes,  monopetalous  corollas, 
and  monadelphous,  or    di-,  or   poly-adelphous   stamens,   the 
tendency  to  an  unnatural  multiplication  of  parts  seems  checked. 

182.  Therefore,  in  such  cases,  double  flowers  are  little  to  be 
expected ;  they  are,  in  fact,  very  rare. 

183.  Proliferous  flowers  are  those  in  which  parts  that  usually 
have  all    their   axillary  buds    dormant    accidentally    develop 
such  buds ;    as  in  the  Hen  and  Chickens  Daisy,  in  which  the 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  143 

bractese  of  the  involucrum  form  other  Daisy-heads  in  their 
axillae;  or,  as  in  certain  Roses,  in  which  the  capillary  leaves 
develop  leaf-buds  in  their  axilla,  so  that  the  flower  becomes  a 
branch  the  lower  leaves  of  which  are  colored  and  transformed, 
and  the  upper  green,  and  in  their  ordinary  state. 

184.  Discoid  compound  flowers  are  those  in  which  the  cen- 
tral florets  of  a*  flower-head  acquire  corollas,  like  those  of  the 
circumference,  as  in  the  Dahlia ;  the  cultivated  variety  of  which 
should  be  called  discoid,  and  not  double. 

185.  Thesfe  two  last  are  so  essentially  different  from  double 
flowers,  that  whatever  laws  may  be  supposed  to  govern  the 
production   or  amelioration   of  double   flowers,  can  have  no 
"elation  to  proliferous  or  discoid  compound  flowers. 

VII.  SEXES. 

186.  The  sexes  consist  of  two  or  more  whorls  of  transformed 
leaves,  of  which  the  outer  are  called  Stamens  (188),  and  the 
inner  Pistillum  (191). 

187.  They  are  known  to  be  modifications  of  leaves,  because 
they  very  frequently  are  transformed  into  petals,  which  are 
demonstrably  such  (149),  and  because  they  occasionally  revert 
to  the  state  of  leaves. 

188.  The  stamens  bear  at  their  apex  an  organ,  called  the 
anther,  which  contains  a  powder  called  pollen. 

189.  When  the  anther  is  full  grown  it  opens  and  emits  the 
pollen,  either  dispersing  it  in  the  air  in  consequence  of  the 
elasticity  with  which  it  opens ;  or  depositing  it  upon  the  stig- 
mata (191);  or  exposing  it  to  the  action  of  wind,  or  such 
other  disturbing  causes  as  may  liberate  it  from  its  case. 

190.  The  pollen  consists  of  exceedingly  minute  hollow  bulls, 
or  cases,  containing  myriads  of  moving  particles,  which  are  the 
fertilizing  principle  of  the  stamens. 

191.  The  pistillum  has  at  its  base  one  or  more  cavities  or 
cells,  in  which  bodies  called  ovula  are  placed ;  and  at  its  apex 
one  or  more  secreting  surfaces,  called  stigmata. 


144  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

192.  The  ovula  are  the  rudiments  of  seed. 
•    193.  If  the  fertilizing  powder  of  the  pollen  comes  in  contact 
with  the  stigmata,  the  ovula  in  the  cells  of  the  pistillum  are 
vivified,  and  become  seed. 

194.  But  if  this  contact  does  not  take  place,  the  ovula  can- 
not possibly  be  vivified,  but  shrivel  up  and  perish. 

195.  The  phenomenon  of  vivification  takes  place  in  conse- 
quence of  the  descent  of  a  portion  of  the  moving  particles  (190) 
of  the  pollen  into  the  ovula,  where  such  particles  form  the 
commencement  of  future  plants. 

196.  In  wild  plants,  stigmata  is  usually  acted  upon  only  by 
the  pollen  of  the  stamens  which  belong  to  it. 

197.  In  this  case,  the  seed  thus  vivified  will,  when  sown, 
produce  new  individuals,  differing  very  little  from  that  by  which 
they  were  themselves  produced. 

198.  And,  therefore,  wild  plants  are  for  the  most  part  mul- 
tiplied from  generation  to  generation  without  change. 

199.  But  it  is  possible  to  cause  deviations  from  this  law  by 
artificial  means. 

200.  If  the  pollen  of  one  species  be  placed  upon  the  stig- 
mata of  another  species,  the  ovula  will  be  vivified ;  and  what  is 
called  a  hybrid  plant  will  be  produced  by  those  ovula  when 
they  shall  have  grown  to  be  seed. 

201.  Hybrid  plants  are  different  from  both  their  parents, 
and  are  generally  intermediate  in  character  between  them. 

202.  They  have  little  power  of  perpetuating  themselves  by 
seed;  but  they  may,  if  woody,  be  perpetuated  by  cuttings 
(312),  buds  (354),  scions  (335),  etc. 

203.  Therefore,  no  hybrids  but  such  as  are  of  a  woody 
perennial  character  can  be  perpetuated. 

204.  It  usually  happens  that  the  hybrid  has  the  constitution 
and  general  aspect  of  the  polliniferous  parent ;  but  is  influenced 
in  secondary  characters  by  the  peculiarity  of  the  female  parent. 

205.  This  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  in  procuring  new 
hybrid  plants. 

206.  Really  hybrid  plants  must  not  be  confounded  with 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  145 

such  as  are  spurious,  in  consequence  of  their  origin  being 
between  two  varieties  of  the  same  species,  and  not  two  species 
of  the  same  genus. 

207.  Hybrid  plants,  although  incapable  of  perpetuation  by 
seed,  are  often  more  abundant  flowerers  than  either  parent. 

208.  This  is,  probably,  connected  with  constitutional  debility 
(162). 

VIII.  FRUIT. 

209.  Fruit,  strictly  speaking,    is   the  pistillum    arrived  at 
maturity. 

210.  When  the  calyx  adheres  to  the  pistillum,   and  grows 
with  it  to  maturity,  the  fruit  is  called  inferior  ;  as  the  Apple. 

211.  But  when  the  pistillum  alone  ripens,  there  being  no 
adhesion  to  it  on  the  part  of  the  calyx,  the  fruit   is  called 
superior  ;  as  the  Peach. 

212.  The  fruit  is,  therefore,  in  common  language,  the  flower, 
or  some  part  of  it,  arrived  at  its  most  complete  state  of  exist- 
ence ;  and,  consequently,  is  itself  a  portion  of  a  stunted  branch 
(153). 

213.  The  nature  of  its  connexion  with  the  stem  is  therefore 
the  same  as  that  of  the  branches  with  each  other,  or  of  leaves 
with  their  stem. 

214.  A  superior  fruit  consisting  only  of  one,  or  of  .a  small 
number  of  metamorphosed  leaves,  it  has  little  or  no  power  of 
forming  a  communication  with  the  earth,  and  of  feeding  itself, 
as  real  branches  have  (89). 

215.  It  has  also  very  little  adhesion  to  its  branch ;  so  that 
but  slight   causes  are  sufficient   to  detach  it  from  the  plant, 
especially  at  an  early  age,  when  all  its  parts  are  tender. 

"216.  Hence  the  difficulty  of  causing  Peaches  and  the  like 
to  stone,  or  to  pass  over  that  age  in  which  the  vascular  bun- 
dies  that  join  them  to  the  branch  become  woody,  and  secure 
them  to  their  place. 

217.  For  the  same  reason  they  are  fed  almost  entirely  by 

7 


148  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

other  parts,  upon  secreted  matter  which  they  attract  to  them- 
selves, elaborate,  and  store  up  in  the  cavities  of  their  tissue. 

218.  The  office  of  feeding  such  fruit  is  performed  by  young 
branches,  which  transmit  nutriment  to  it  through  the  bark  (69). 

219.  But  as  young   branches  can  only  transmit  nutriment 
downwards,  it  follows  that,  unless  a  fruit  is  formed  on  a  part  of 
a  branch  below  a  leaf-bud,  it  must  perish. 

220.  Unless    there  is  some    active  vegetation  in  the  stem 
above  the  branch  on  which  it  grows ;  when  it  may  possibly 
live  and  feed  upon  secretions  attracted  by  it  from  the  main 
stem. 

221.  But  inferior  fruit,  consisting  at  least  of  the  calyx  in 
addition  to  the  pistillum,  has  a  much  more  powerful  communi- 
cation with  the  branch ;  each  division  of  its  calyx  having  at 
least  one  bundle  of  vascular  and  fibrous  tissue,  passing  from  it 
into  the  branch,  and  acting  as  a  stay  upon  the  centre  to  pre- 
vent its  breaking  off. 

222.  Such  fruit  may  be  supposed  much   more  capable  of 
establishing  a  means  of  attracting  secretions  from  a  distance ; 
and,  consequently,  is  less  liable  to  perish  from  want  of  a  supply 
of  food. 

223.  It  is  therefore  not  so  important  that  an  inferior  fruit 
should  be  furnished  with  growing  branches  above  it. 

224.  Fruit  is  exclusively  fed  by  the  secretions  prepared  for  it 
by  other  parts  ;  it  is  therefore  affected  by  nearly  the  same  cir- 
cumstances as  flowers. 

225.  It  will  be  large  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  food 
the  stem  can  supply  to  it ;  and  small  in  proportion  to  the 
inability  of  the  stem  to  nourish  it. 

226.  For  this  reason,  when  trees  are  weak,  they  should  be 
allowed  to  bear  very  little,  if  any,  fruit ;  because  a  crop  of 
fruit  can  only  tend  to  increase  their  debility. 

227.  And  in  all  cases  each  fruit  should  be  so  far  separated 
from  all  others  as  not  to  be  robbed  of  its  food  by  those  in  its 
vicinity. 

228.  We  find  that  nature  has  herself  in  some  measure  pro- 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  147 

vided  against  injury  to  plants  by  excessive  fecundity,  in  giving 
them  a  power  of  throwing  off  flowers,  the  fruit  of  which  cannot 
be  supported. 

229.  The  flavor  of  fruit  depends  upon  the  existence  of  cer- 
tain secretions,  especially  of  acid  and  sugar ;  flavor  will,  conse- 
quently, be  regulated  by  the  circumstances  under  which 
fruit  is  ripened. 

•230.  The  ripening  of  fruit  is  the  conversion  of  acid  and  other 
substances  into  sugar. 

231.  As  the  latter  substance  cannot  be  obtained  at  all  in  the 
dark,  is  less  abundant  in  fruit  ripened  in  diffused  light,  and 
most  abundant  in  fruit  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  the 
conversion  of  matter  into  sugar  occurs  under  the  same  circum- 
stances as  the  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid  (141  and  279). 

232  Therefore,  if  fruit  be  produced  in  situations  much 
exposed  to  the  sun,  its  sweetness  will  be  augmented. 

233.  And  in  proportion  as  it  is  deprived  of  the  sun's  direct 
rays,  that  quality  will  diminish. 

234.  So  that  a  fruit  which,  when  exposed  to  the  sun,  is  sweet, 
when  grown  where  no  direct  light  will  reach  it  will  be  acid,  as 
Pears,  Cherries,  etc. 

235.  Hence  acidity  may  be  corrected  by  exposure  to  light, 
and  excessive  sweetness  or  insipidity  by  removal  from  light. 

236.  It  is  the  property  of  succulent  fruits  which  are  acid 
when  wild,  to  acquire  sweetness  when  cultivated,  losing  part  of 
their  acid. 

237.  This   probably   arises  from  the  augmentation  of  the 
cellular  tissue,  which  possibly  has  a  greater  power  than  woody 
or  vascular  tissue  of  assisting  in  the  formation  of  sugar. 

238.  As  a  certain   quantity  of  acid  is  essential  to  render 
fruit  agreeable  to  the  palate,  and  as  it  is  the  property  of  culti- 
vated fruits  to  add  to  their  saccharine  matter,  but  not  to  form 
more  acid  than  when  wild,  it  follows  that,  in  selecting  wild  fruits 
for  domestication,  those  which  are  acid  should  be  preferred, 
and  those  which  are  sweet  or  insipid  rejected. 

239.  Unless   recourse   is   had   to  hybridism,  when  a   wild 


148  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

insipid  fruit  may  possibly  be  improved  (204),  or  may  be  the 
means  of  improving  something  else. 

240.  It  is  very  much  upon  such  considerations  as  the  fore- 
going that  the  rules  of  training  must  depend. 

IX.  SEED. 

241.  The  seed  is  the  ovulum  arrived  at  perfection. 

242.  It  consists  of  an  integument  inclosing  an  embryo,  which 
is  the  rudiment  of  a  future  plant. 

243.  The  seed  is  nourished  by  the  same  means  as  the  fruit, 
and,  like  it,  will  be  more  or  less  perfectly  formed,  according  to 
the  abundance  of  its  nutriment. 

244.  The  plant  developed  from  the  embryo  in  the  seed  will 
be  in  all  essential  particulars  like  its  parent  species. 

245.  Unless  its   nature  has  been   changed  by  hybridizing 
(204). 

246.  But  although  it  will  certainly,  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, reproduce  its  species,  it  will  by  no  means  uniformly 
reproduce  the  particular  variety  by  which  it  was  borne. 

247.  So  that  seed  are  not  the  proper  means  of  propagating 
varieties. 

248.  Nevertheless,  in  annual  or  biennial  plants  no  means  can 
be  employed  for  propagating  a  variety  except  the  seed ;  and 
yet  the  variety  is  preserved. 

249.  This  is  accomplished  solely  by  the  great  care  of  the 
cultivator,  and  happens  thus : 

250.  Although  a  seed  will  not  absolutely  propagate  the  indi- 
vidual, yet  as  a  seed  will  partake  more  of  the  nature  of  its 
actual   parent   than   of.  anything   else,   its    progeny    may  be 
expected,  as  really  happens,  to  resemble  the  variety  from  which 
it  sprang  more  than  any  other  variety  of  its  species. 

251.  Provided  its  purity  has  not  been  contaminated  by  the 
intermixture  of  other  varieties. 

252.  By  a  careful  eradication  of  all  the  varieties  from  the 
neighborhood  of  that  from  which   seed  is  to  be   saved;   by 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  149 

taking  care  that  none  but  the  most  genuine  forms  of  a  variety 
are  preserved  as  seed-plants ;  and  by  compelling  by  transplan- 
tation a  plant  to  expend  all  its  accumulated  sap  in  the  nourish- 
ment of  its  seed  instead  of  in  the  superabundant  production  of 
foliage,  a  crop  of  seed  may  be  procured,  the  plants  produced 
by  which  will,  in  a  great  measure,  have  the  peculiar  properties 
of  the  parent  variety. 

253.  By  a  series  of  progressive  seed-savings  upon  the  same 
plan,  plants  will  be  at  length  obtained,  in  which  the  habits  of 
the  individual  have  become,  as  it  were,  fixed,  and  capable  of 
such  exact  reproduction  by  seed  as  to  form  an  exception  to  the 
general  rule,  as  in  Turnips,  Radishes,  etc. 

254.  But  if  the  least  neglect  occurs  in  taking  the  necessary 
precautions  (252)  to  insure  a  uniform  crop  of  seed  possessing 
the  new  fixed  properties,  the  race  becomes  deteriorated  in  pro- 
portion to  the  want  of  care  that  has  occurred,  and  loses  its 
characters  of  individuality. 

255.  In  all  varieties  those  seed  may  be  expected  to  preserve 
their  individual  characters  most  distinctly  which  have  been  the 
best  nourished  (243)  ;  it  is,  consequently,  those  which  should 
be  selected  in  preference  for  raising  new  plants  from  which 
seed  is  to  be  saved. 

256.  When  seed  are  first  opened,  their  embryo  is  a  mass  of 
cellular  substance,  containing  starch,  fixed  carbon,  or  other  solid 
matter,  in  its  cavities;  and  in  this  state  it  will  remain  until 
fitting  circumstances  occur  to  call  it  into  active  life. 

257.  These  fitting  circumstances  are,  a  temperature  above 
32°  Fahrenheit,  a  moist  medium,  darkness,  and  exposure  to  air. 

258.  It  then  absorbs  the  moisture  of  the  medium  in  which 
it  lies,  inhales  oxygen  (278),  and  undergoes  certain  chemical 
changes ;  its  vital  powers  cause  it  to  ascend  by  one  extremity 
for  the  purpose  of  finding  light,  and  of  decomposing  its  car- 
bonic acid  (279),  by  parting  with   its   accumulated  oxygen, 
and  to  descend  by  the  other  extremity  for  the  purpose  of 
finding  a  constant  supply  of  crude  nutriment. 

259.  Unless  these  conditions  are  maintained,  seed  cannot 


150  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

germinate,  and,  consequently,  an  exposure  to  light  is  fatal  t< 
their  embryo,  because  (278)  oxygen  will  not  be  absorbed  ii 
sufficient  quantity  to  stimulate  the  vital  powers  of  the  embryo 
into  action,  for  the  purpose  of  parting  with  it  again,  by  the 
decomposition  of  the  carbonic  acid  that  has  been  formed  dur- 
ing its  accumulation. 

X.    SAP. 

260.  The  fluid  matter  which  is  absorbed  either  from  the 
earth  or  from  the  air  is  called  Sap. 

261.  When  it  first  enters  a  plant,  it  consists  of  water  holding 
certain  principles,  especially  carbonic  acid,  in  solution. 

262.  These  principles  chiefly  consist  of  animal  or  vegetable 
matter  in  a  state  of  decomposition,  and  are  energetic  in  pro- 
portion to  their  solubility,  or  tendency  to  form  carbonic  acid 
by  combining  with  the  oxygen  of  the  air. 

263.  Sap  soon  afterwards  acquires  the  nature  of  mucilage 
or  sugar,  and  subsequently  becomes  still  further  altered  by  the 
admixture  of  such  soluble  matter  as  it  receives  in  passing  in 
its    route   through   the   alburnum    or  newly  formed   woody 
issue  (65). 

264.  When  it  reaches  the  vicinity  of  the  leaves,  it  is  attracted 
into  them,  and  there,  having  been  exposed  to  light  and  air,  is 
converted  into  the  secretions  peculiar  to  the  species. 

265.  It  finally,  in  its  altered  state,  sinks  down  the  bark, 
whence  it  is  given  off  laterally  by  the  medullary  rays,  and  is 
distributed  through  the  system. 

266.  No  solid  matter  whatever  can  be  taken   up   by  the 
roots ;  for  this  reason,  metals,  which  in  the  state  of  oxides  are 
poisonous,  are  perfectly  harmless  in  their   metallic  state,  as 
mercury ;  and  this  is,  no  doubt,  the  cause  why  liquid  manure, 
which  contains  all  the  soluble  parts  of  manure  in  a  fluid  state, 
acts  with  so  much  more  energy  than  stimulating  substances  in 
a  solid  state. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  151 

267.  The  cause  of  tlie  motion  of  the  sap  is  the  attraction  of 
the  leaf-buds  and  leaves. 

268.  The  leaf-buds,   called  into   growth  by  the   combined 
action  of  the  increasing  temperature  and  light  of  spring,  de- 
compose their  carbonic  acid  (279),  and  attract  fluid  from  the 
tissue  immediately  below  them  ;  the  space  so  caused  is  filled 
up  by  fluid  again  attracted  from  below,  and  thus  a  motion 
gradually  takes  place  in  the  sap  from   one  extremity  to  the 
other. 

269.  Consequently,  the  motion  of  the  sap  takes  place  first 
in  the  branches  and  last  in  the  roots. 

270.  For  this  reason,  a  branch  of  a  plant  subjected  to  a 
high  temperature  in  winter  will  grow  while  its  stem  is  ex- 
posed to  a  very  low  temperature. 

271.  But  growth  under  such  circumstances  will  not  be  long 
maintained,  unless  the  roots  are  secured  from  the  reach  of 
frost ;  for  if  frozen  they  cannot  act,  and  will  consequently  be 
unable  to  replace  the  sap  of  which  the  stem  is  emptied  by  the 
attraction  of  the  buds  converted  into  branches,  and  by  the 
perspiration  of  the  leaves  (XII.). 

272.  Whatever  tends  to  inspissate  the  sap,  such  as  a  dry 
and  heated  atmosphere,  or  an  interruption  of  its  rapid  flow, 
or  a  great  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid  by  full  exposure  to 
light,  has  the  property  of  causing  excessive  vigor  to  be  dimi- 
nished, and  flower-buds  to  be  produced. 

273.  While,  on  the  other  hand,  whatever  tends  to  dilute  the 
sap,  such  as  a  damp  atmosphere,  a  free  and  uninterrupted  circu- 
lation, or  a  great  accumulation  of  oxygen  in  consequence  of  the 
imperfect  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid,  has  the  property  of 
causing  excessively  rapid  growth,  and  an  exclusive  production 
of  leaf-buds. 

274.  Inspissated  or  accumulated  sap  is,  therefore,  a  great 
cause  of  fertility. 

275.  And  thin  fluid,  not  being  elaborated,  is  a  great  cause  of 
sterility. 

276.  The  conversion  of  sap  into  different  kinds  of  secretion 


152  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

is  effected  by  the  combined  action  of  Air  (XL),  Light  (XL), 
and  Temperature. 


XL  AIR  AND  LIGHT. 

277.  When  an  embryo  plant  (242)  is  formed  within  its  inte- 
guments, it  is  usually  colorless,  or  nearly  so ;  but,  as  soon  as  it 
begins  to  grow,  that  part  which  approaches  the  light  (the  stem) 
becomes   colored,    while   the   opposite   extremity   (the   root) 
remains  colorless. 

278.  The  parts  exposed  to  the  air  absorb  oxygen  at  night, 
absorb  carbonic  acid  and  part  with  oxygen  again  in  daylight ; 
and  thus  in  the  daytime  purify  the  air,  and  render  it  fit  for  the 
respiration  of  man. 

279.  The  intensity  of  this  latter  phenomenon  is  in  proportion 
to  the  intensity  of  solar  light  to  which  leaves  are  directly  ex- 
posed. 

280.  Its  cause  is  the  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid,  the 
extrication  of  oxygen,  and  the  acquisition  by  the  plant  of  carbon 
in  a  solid  state ;  "from  which,  modified  by  the  peculiar  vital 
actions  of  species,  color  and  secretions  are  supposed  to  result. 

281.  For  it  is  found  that  the  intensity  of  color,  and  the 
quantity  of  secretions,  are  in  proportion  to  the  exposure  to  light 
and  air,  as  is  shown  by  the  deeper  color  of  the  upper  sides  of 
leaves,  etc. 

282.  And  by  the  fact  that,  if  plants  be  grown  in  air  from 
which  light  is  excluded,  neither  color  nor  secretions  are  formed, 
as  is  exemplified  in  blanched  vegetables ;  which,  if  even  natu- 
rally poisonous,  may,  from  want  of  exposure  to  light,  become 
wholesome,  as  Celery. 

283.  When  any  color  appears  in  parts  developed  in  the  dark, 
it  is  generally  caused  by  the  absorption  of  such  coloring  matter 
as  preexisted  in  the  root  or  other  body  from  which  the  blanched 
shoot  proceeds,  as  in  some  kinds  of  Rhubarb  when  forced. 

284.  Or  by  the  deposition  of  coloring  matter  formed  by 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  153 

parts  developed  in  light,  as  in  the  subterranean  roots  of  Beet> 
Carrots,  etc. 

285.  What   is  true  of  color  is  also  true  of  flavor,  which 
equally  depends  upon  light  for  its  existence ;  because  flavor  is 
produced  by  chemical  alterations  in  the  sap  caused  by  exposure 
to  light  (229). 

286.  The  same  thing  occurs  in  regard  to  nutritive  matter, 
which  in  like  manner  is  formed  by  exposure  of  leaves  to  light. 
Thus  the  Potato,  when  forced  in  dark  houses,  contains  no  more 
amylaceous  matter  than  previously  existed  in  the  original  tuber , 
but  acquires  it  in  abundance  when  placed  in  the  light,  and 
deposits  it  in  proportion  as  it  is  influenced  by  light  and  air. 
Thus,  also,  if  Peaches  are  grown  in  wooden  houses,  at  a  distance 
from  the  light,  they  will  form  so  little  nutritive  matter  as  to  be 
unable  to  support  a  crop  of  fruit,  the  greater  part  of  which  will 
fall  off.     And  for  a  similar  reason,  it  is  only  the  outside  shoots 
of  standard  fruit-trees  that  bear  fruit.     Considerations  of  this 
kind  form  in  part  the  basis  of  pruning  and  training. 

287.  Light  is  the  most  powerful  stimulus  that  can  be  em- 
ployed to  excite  the  vital  actions  of  plants,  and  its  energy  is  in 
proportion  to  its  intensity  ;  so  that  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun 
will  produce  much  more  powerful  effects  than  the  diffused  light 
of  day. 

288.  Hence,  if  buds  that  are  very  excitable  are  placed  in  a 
diffused  light,  their  excitability  will  be  checked. 

289.  And  if  buds  that  are  very  torpid  are  exposed  to  direct 
light,  they  will  be  stimulated  into  action. 

290.  So  that  what  parts  of  the  tree  shall  first  begin  to  grow 
in  the  spring  may  be  determined  at  the  will  of  the  cultivator. 

291.  This  is  the  key  to  some  important  practices  in  forcing. 

292.  This  should  also  cause  attention  to  be  paid  to  shading 
buds  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  in  particular  cases ;  as  in 
that  of  cuttings,  whose  buds,  if  too  rapidly  excited,  might 
exhaust  their  only  reservoir  of  sap,  the  stem,  before  new  roots 
were  formed  to  repair  such  loss. 

293.  As  plants  derive  an  essential  part  of  their  food  from  the 

7* 


154  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

air  (280)  by  the  action  of  light,  it  follows  that  in  glass  houses 
those  which  admit  the  greatest  portion  of  light  are  the  best 
adapted  for  purposes  of  cultivation. 

294.  The  proportion  of  opaque  matter  in  the  roof  of  a  glass 
house  constructed  of  wood  varies  from  one-third  to  one-seventh  j 
that  of  an  iron  house  does  not  exceed  one  twenty-third. 

295.  Therefore,  iron-roofed  houses  are  in  this  respect  better 
suited  for  cultivation  than  wooden-roofed  houses. 

296.  And  it  has  been  found  by  experiment  that  light  passes 
more  freely  through  a  curvilinear  than  through  a  plane  roof, 
and  through  glass  forming  an  acute  angle  with  the  horizon 
than  through  perpendicular  glass ;  it  follows  that  a  curvilinear 
roof  is  best,  and  a  plane  roof  with  glass  perpendicular  sides  the 
worst,  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the  cultivator. 

297.  For  the  same  reason  common  green  glass  is  less  fitted 
for  glazing  forcing-houses  than  white  crown  glass. 

298.  Poisonous  gases  in  very  minute  quantities  act  upon 
vegetation  with  great  energy.     A  ten-thousandth  part  of  sul- 
phurous acid  gas  is  quickly  fatal  to  the  life  of  plants ;  and 
hence  the  danger  of  flues  heated  by  coal  fires,  and  the  impos- 
sibility of  making  many  species  grow  in  the  vicinity  of  houses 
heated  by  coal-fires,  or  in  large  towns. 

XII.  PERSPIRATION. 

299.  It  is  not,  however,  exclusively  by  the  action  of  light 
and  air  that  the  nature  of  sap  is  altered.     Evaporation  is  con- 
stantly going  on  during  the  growth  of  a  plant,  and  sometimes 
is  so  copious  that  an  individual  will  perspire  its  own  weight 
of  water  in  the  course  of  twenty-four  hours. 

300.  The  loss  thus  occasioned  by  the  leaves  is  supplied  by 
crude  fluid,  absorbed  by  the  roots,  and  conveyed  up  the  stem 
with  great  rapidity. 

301.  The  consequence  of  such  copious  perspiration  is  the 
separation  and  solidification  of  the  carbonized  matter  that  is 
produced  for  the  peculiar  secretions  of  a  species. 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  155 

302.  For  the  maintenance  of  a  plant  in  health,  it  is  indis- 
pensable that  the  supply  of  fluid  by  the  roots  should  be  con- 
tinual and  uninterrupted. 

303.  If  anything  causes  perspiration  to  take  place  faster 
than  it  can  be  counteracted  by  the  absorption  of  fluid  from 
the  earth,  plants  will  be  dried  up  and  perish. 

304.  Such  causes  are,  destruction  of  spongioles,  an  insuffi- 
cient quantity  of  fluid  in  the  soil,  an  exposure  of  the  spongioles 
to  occasional  dryness,  and  a  dry  atmosphere. 

305.  The  most  ready  means  of  counteracting  the  evil  conse- 
quences of  an  imperfect  action  of  the  roots  is  by  preventing 
or  diminishing  evaporation. 

306.  This  is  to  be  effected  by  rendering  the  atmosphere 
extremely  humid. 

307.  Thus,  in   curvilinear  iron   hot-houses,  in  which   the 
atmosphere  becomes  so  dry,  in  consequence  of  the  heat,  that 
plants  perish,  it  is  necessary  that  the  air  should  be  rendered 
extremely  humid,  by  throwing  water  upon  the  pavement,  or 
by  introducing  steam. 

308.  And  in  transplantation  in  dry  weather,  evergreens,  or 
plants  in  leaf,  often  die,  because  the  spongioles  are  destroyed, 
or  so  far  injured  in  the  operation  as  to  be  unable  to  act,  while 
the  leaves  never  cease  to  perspire. 

309.  The  greater  certainty  of  transplanting  plants  that  have 
been  growing  in  pots  is,  from  this  latter  circumstance,  intel- 
ligible. 

310.  While  the  utility  of  putting  cuttings  or  newly  trans- 
planted seedlings  into  a  shady,  damp  atmosphere  is  explained 
by  the  necessity  of  hindering  evaporation 


XIIL  CUTTINGS. 

311.  When  a  separate  portion  of  a  plant  is  caused  to  pro- 
duce new  roots  and  branches,  and  to  increase  an  individual,  it 
is  a  Cutting. 


156  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

312.  Cuttings  are  of  two  sorts:  cuttings  properly  so  called, 
and  eyes  (319). 

313.  A  cutting  consists  of  an  internodia,  or  a  part  of  one, 
with  its  nodi  (59)  and  leaf-bud. 

314.  When  the  internodia  is  plunged  in  the  earth,  it  attracts 
fluid  from  thes  oil,  and  nourishes  the  bud  until  it  can  feed 
itself. 

315.  The  bud,  feeding  at  first  upon  the  matter  in  the  inter- 
nodia, gradually  elongates  upwards  into  a  branch,  and  sends 
organized  matter  downwards,  which  becomes  roots. 

316.  As  soon  as  it  has  established  a  communication  with 
the  soil,  it  becomes  a  new  individual,  exactly  like  that  from 
which  it  was  taken. 

317.  As  it  is  the  action  of  the  leaf-buds  that  causes  growth 
in  a  cutting,  it  follows  that  no  cutting  without  a  leaf-bud  will 
grow. 

318.  Unless  the  cutting  has  great  vitality  and  power  of  form- 
ing adventitous  leaf-buds  (119),  which  sometimes  happens. 

319.  An  eye  is  a  leaf-bud  without  an  internodia. 

320.  It  only  differs  from  a  cutting  in  having  no  reservoir  of 
food  on  which  to  exist,  and  in  emitting  its  roots  immediately 
from  the  base  of  the  leaf-bud  into  the  soil. 

321.  As  cuttings  will  very  often,  if  not  always,  develop 
leaves  before  any  powerful  connexion  is  formed  between  them 
and  the  soil,  they  are  peculiarly  liable  to  suffer  from  perspira- 
tion. 

322.  Hence  the  importance  of  maintaining  their  atmosphere 
in  a  uniform  state  of  humidity,  as  is  effected  by  putting  bell  or 
other  glasses  over  them. 

323.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is  necessary  that,  if  air-tight 
covers  are  employed,  such  as  bell-glasses,  they  should  be  from 
time  to  time  removed  and  replaced,  for  the  sake  of  getting  rid 
of  excessive  humidity. 

324.  Layers  differ  from  cuttings  in  nothing  except  that  they 
strike  root  into  the  soil  while  yet  adhering  to  the  parent  plant. 

325.  Whatever  is  true  of  cuttings  is  true  of  layers,  except 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  157 

that  the  latter  are  not  liable  to  suffer  by  evaporation,  because 
of  their  communication  with  the  parent  plant. 

326.  As  cuttings  strike  roots  into  the  earth  by  the  action  of 
leaves  or  leaf-buds,  it  might  be  supposed  that  they  will  strike 
most  readily  when  the  leaves  or  leaf-buds  are  in  their  greatest 
vigor. 

327.  Nevertheless,  this  power  is  controlled  so  much  by  the 
peculiar  vital  powers  of  different  species,  and  by  secondary 
considerations,  that    it  is  impossible  to  say  that  this  is  an 
absolute  rule. 

328.  Thus  Dahlias  and  other  herbaceous  plants  will  strike 
root  freely  when  cuttings  are  very  young ;  and  Heaths,  Aza- 
leas, and  other  hard-wooded  plants,  only  when  the  wood  has 
just  begun  to  harden. 

329.  The  former  is,  probably,  owing  to  some  specific  vital 
excitability,  the  force  of  which  we  cannot  appreciate ;  the  lat- 
ter either  to  a  kind  of  torpor,  which  seems  to  seize  such  plants 
when  the  tissue  is  once  emptied  of  fluid,  or  to  a  natural  slow- 
ness to  send  downwards  woody  matter,  whether  for  wood  or 
not,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  their  wood  being  harder. 

330.  If  ripened  cuttings  are  upon  the  whole  the  most  fitted 
for  multiplication,  it  is  because  their  tissue  is  less  absorbed 
than  when  younger,  and  that  they  are  less  likely  to  suffer 
either  from  repletion  or  evaporation. 

331.  For,  to  gorge  tissue  with  food,  before  leaves  are  in 
action  to  decompose  and  assimilate  it,  is  as  prejudicial  as  to 
empty  tissue  by  the  action  of  leaves,  before  spongioles  are  pre- 
pared to  replenish  it. 

332.  For  this  reason,  pure  silex,  in  which  no  stimulating 
substances  are  contained  (silver  sand),  is  the  best  adapted  for 
promoting  the  rooting  of  cuttings  that  strike  with  difficulty. 

333.  And  for  the  same  reason,  cuttings  with  what  garden- 
ers call  a  heel  to  them,  or  a  piece  of  the  older  wood,  strike 
root  more  readily  than  such  as  are  not  so  protected.     The 
greater  age  of  the  tissue  of  the  heel  renders  it  less  absorbent 
than  tissue  that  is  altogether  newly  formed. 


158  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

334.  It  is  to  avoid  the  bad  effect  of  evaporation  that  leaves 
are  usually  for  the  most  part  removed  from  a  cutting,  when 
it  is  first  prepared. 

XIY.  SCIONS. 

335.  A  Scion  is  a  cutting  (311)  which  is  caused  to  grow 
upon  another  plant,  and  not  in  the  earth. 

336.  Scions  are  of  two  sorts :  scions  properly  so  called,  and 
buds  (354). 

337.  Whatever  is  true  of  cuttings  is  true  also  of  scions,  all 
circumstances  being  equal. 

338.  When  a  scion  is  adapted  to  another  plant,  it  attracts 
fluid  from  it  for  the  nourishment  of  its  leaf-buds  until  they  can 
feed  themselves. 

339.  Its  leaf-buds,  thus  fed,  gradually  grow  upwards  into 
branches,  and  send  woody  matter  downwards,  which  is  analo- 
gous to  roots. 

340.  At  the  same  time,  the  cellular  substance  of  the  scion 
and  its  stock  adheres  (19),  so  as  to  form  a  complete  organic 
union, 

341.  The  woody  matter  descending  from  the  bud  passes 
through  the  cellular  substance  into  the  stock,  where  it  occupies 
the  same  situation  as  would  have  been  occupied  by  woody  mat- 
ter supplied  by  buds  belonging  to  the  stock  itself. 

342.  Once  united,  the  scion  covers  the  wood  of  the  stock 
with  new  wood,  and  causes  the  production  of  new  roots. 

343.  But  the  character  of  the  woody  matter  sent  down  by 
the  scion  over  the  wood  of  the  stock  being  determined  by  the 
cellular  substance,  which  has  exclusively  a  horizontal  develop- 
ment (73),  it  follows  that  the  wood  of  the  stock  will  always 
remain  apparently  the  same,  although  it  is  furnished  by  the 
scion. 

344.  Some  scions  will  grow  upon  a  stock  without  being  able 
to  transmit  any  woody  matter  into  it ;  as  some  Cacti. 

345.  When  this  happens,  the  adhesion  of  the  two  takes 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  159 

place  by  the  cellular  substance  only,  and  the  union  is  so  im- 
perfect that  a  slight  degree  of  violence  suffices  to  dissever 
them. 

346.  And  in  such  cases  the  buds  are  fed  by  their  woody 
matter,  which  absorbs  the  ascending  sap  from  the  stock  at  the 
point  where  the  adhesion  has  occurred ;  and  the  latter,  never 
augmenting  in  diameter,  is  finally  overgrown  by  the  scion. 

347.  When,  in  such  instances,  the  communication  between 
the  stock  and  the  scion  is  so  much  interrupted  that  the  sap 
can  no  longer  ascend  with  sufficient  rapidity  into  the  branches, 
the  latter  die ;  as  in  many  Peaches. 

348.  This  incomplete  union  between  the  scion  and  its  stock 
is  owing  to  some  constitutional  or  organic  difference  in  the 
two. 

349.  Therefore,  care  should  be  taken  that,  when  plants  are 
grafted  on  one  another,  their  constitution  should  be  as  nearly 
as  possible  identical. 

350.  As  adhesion  of  only  an  imperfect  nature  takes  place 
when  the  scion  and  stock  are,  to  a  certain  degree,  dissimilar  in 
constitution,  so  will  no  adhesion  whatever  occur  when  their 
constitutional  difference  is  very  decided. 

351.  Hence  it  is  only  species  very  nearly  allied  in  nature 
that  can  be  grafted  on  each  other. 

352.  As  only  similar  tissues  will  unite  (19),  it  is  necessary, 
in  applying  a  scion  to  the  stock,  that  similar  parts  should  be 
carefully  adapted  to  each  other ;  as  bark  to  bark,  cambium  to 
cambium,  alburnum  to  alburnum. 

353.  The  second  is  more  especially  requisite,  because  it  is 
through  the  cambium  that  the  woody  matter  sent  downwards 
by  the  buds  must  pass ;  and  also  because  cambium  itself,  being 
organizing  matter  in  an  incipient  state,  will  more  readily  form 
an  adhesion  than  any  other  part. 

354.  The  same  principles  apply  to  buds,  which  are  to  scions 
precisely  what  eyes  (319)  are  to  cuttings. 

355.  Inarching  is  the  same  with  reference  to  grafting,  that 
layering  (324)  is  with  reference  to  striking  by  cuttings. 


160  FLOWER-GARDENING. 

356.  It  serves  to  maintain  the  vitality  of  a  scion  until  it  can 
form  an  adhesion  with  its  stock ;  and  must  be  considered  the 
most  certain  mode  of  grafting. 

357.  It  is  probable  that  every  species  of  flowering  plant, 
without  exception,  may  be  multiplied  by  grafting. 

358.  Nevertheless,  there  are  many  species  and  even  tribes 
that  never  have  been  grafted. 

359.  It  has  been  found  that  in  the  Vine  and  the  Walnut 
this  difficulty  can  be  overcome  by  attention  to  their  peculiar 
constitutions ;  and  it  is  probable  that  the  same  attention  will 
remove  supposed  difficulties  in  the  case  of  other  species. 


XV.  TRANSPLANTATION. 

360.  Transplantation  consists  in  removing  a  plant  from  the 
soil  in  which  it  is  growing  to  some  other  soil. 

361.  If  in  the  operation  the  plant  is  torpid,  and  its  spongioles 
uninjured,  the  removal  will  not  be  productive  of  any  interrup- 
tion to  the  previous  rate  of  growth. 

362.  And  if  it  is  growing,  or  evergreen,  and  the  spongioles 
are  uninjured,  the  removal  will  produce  no  further  injury  than 
may  arise  from  the  temporary  suspension  of  the  action  of  the 
spongioles,  and  the  non-cessation  of  perspiration  during  the 
operation. 

363.  So  that  transplantations  may  take  place  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  and  under  all  circumstances,  provided  the  spon- 
gioles are  uninjured. 

364.  This  applies  to  the  largest  trees  as  well  as  to  the  small- 
est herbs. 

365.  But  as  it  is  impossible  to  take  plants  out  of  the  earth 
without  destroying  or  injuring  the  spongioles,  the  evil  conse- 
quence of  such  accidents  must  be  remedied  by  the  hindrance 
of  evaporation. 

366.  Transplantation  should  therefore  take  place  only  when 
plants  are  torpid,  and  when  their  respiratory  organs  (leaves) 


FLOWER-GARDENING.  161 

are  absent ;  or,  if  they  never  lose  those  organs,  as  evergreens, 
only  at  seasons  when  the  atmosphere  is  periodically  charged 
with  humidity  for  some  considerable  time. 

367.  Old  trees,  in  which  the  roots  are  much  injured,  form 
new  ones  so  slowly  that  they  are  very  liable  to  be  exhausted 
of  sap  by  the  absorption  of  their  very  numerous  young  buds 
before  new  spongioles  can  be  formed. 

368.  The  amputation  of  all  their  upper  extremities  is  the 
most  probable  prevention  of  death ;  but  in  most  cases  injury  of 
their  roots  is  without  a  remedy. 

369.  Plants  in  pots,  being  so  circumstanced  that  the  spon- 
gioles are  protected  from  injury,  can,  however,  be  transplanted 
at  all  seasons  without  any  dangerous  consequences. 


INDEX. 


A. 

PAGB 

Amaryllis — how  to  cultivate. 62 

Ajiemone  and  Ranunculus 63 

Air  and  Light 152 

B. 

Biennial  flower  seed — 31 

catalogue  of. 33 

Budding 55 

Bulbous  plants — cultivation  of. 58 

roots — management  of. 60 

Bulbs — winter  management  of. 61 

Bulbous  roots — culture  of,  in  pots  or  glasses,  in  the  winter  season. . .  89 

C. 

Climbing  plants. 36,  49 

Changeable  flower-gardens 39 

Catalogue,  etc 44 

Crocus 64 

Crown  Imperial 64 

Colchicum 65 

Cyclamen 65 

Corn  Flag 75 

Chrysanthemums — list  of. 97 

propagation  of. 98 

Catalogue  of  green-house  plants — introduction ' 98 

Camellias,  or  Japan  Roses 118 

Cuttings 155 


1  64  INDEX. 

D. 

PAGft 

Deciduous  plants — transplanting. 5V 

Double  Dahlia — G's 

catalogue  of. 6Y 

propagation  of,  from  seed 73 

Dahlias — preparation  of  the  soil  for 74 

Descriptive  catalogue. 99 

E. 

Employment  for  ladies 19 

Early  flowers — how  to  grow 28 

Edgings  and  walks 41 

F. 

Mower-garden — observations  on 17 

Flower-beds — renewing  of. 38 

Flowers — grouping  of,  artistically 38 

Flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs 42 

Flower-de-luce 78 

Frost — attracting  of,  with  water. 94 

Flowers 139 

Fruit..  ..145 


G. 

Grafting 55 

Gladiolus 75 

Green-house  plants — general  management  of 91 

management  of,  in  cold  weather 115 

watering  of 116 

management  of,  in  warm  weather 121 

Green-house  flowers — time  to  transplant 123 


H. 

Hardy  flowering  shrubs. 54 

Hyacinths  and  bulbous  roots — difference  between 59 

Hyacinth. 77 

Heat  essential  to  the  growth  of  plants 95 


INDEX.  165 


PAGH 

Inarching 55 

Iris,  or  Flower-de-luce 78 

Ixias..  79 


J. 
Japan  Eoses,  or  Camellias 118 

L. 

Light — required  by  plants 94 

Leaf  buds 134 

Leaves 137 

M. 
Management  of  hardy  flowering  shrubs 54 

N. 
Narcissus. .  80 


0. 

Oraithogalum,  or  Star  of  Bethlehem 81 

Oxalis 82 

Outline  of  the  principles  of  horticulture 126 


P. 

Perennial  flower-seed — 31 

catalogue  of 33 

P*ony. 82 

Plants — watering  of 95 

Perspiration 154 


166  INDEX. 


PAGH 

Rockery — construction  of 18 

Ranunculus 63 

Roots ..129 


S. 

Soil — selection  of,  as  adapted  to  flowers 20 

Seeds— catalogue  of  annuals 21 

Soil — preparation  of 27 

Shrubs  flowering — propagation  of. 53 

Sword  Lily 75 

Star  of  Bethlehem 81 

Stem 132 

Sexes 143 

Seed 148 

Sap 150 

Scions ..158 


T. 

Tuberous-rooted  plants— cultivation  of 58 

Tulip— 83 

management  of 86 

Tuberose 87 

Tiger  flower 88 

Transplantation.. 160 


V. 
Various  kinds  of  flowers — how  to  manage 29 


W. 
Walks  and  edgings 41 


